Author Topic: matts buggy build  (Read 94316 times)

mr.mindless

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #525 on: August 04, 2014, 10:06:55 AM »
I need to get thermostatic control on my fans. I'm VERY happy with the way it cools without the stat.

I'm figuring low at 160, high at 185 ballpark. trans & steering cooler on full time and second trans cooler on at engine 160.
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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #526 on: August 04, 2014, 11:55:54 AM »
On my 6.0 I took a thermostat and cut the plunger thing out of it, just leaving the plate with the hole in it, It slows down the water in the block to allow it to pick up the heat but does not let it run too fast.

Thermostat is not really necessary on a buggy.

It turns out that plain old distilled water has the highest specific heat of all liquids commonly used for coolant. Water has a specific heat of 1 - meaning one pound of water can absorb 1 BTU for a temperature increase of 1° F.

A 50/50 Ethylene Glycol / water mix has a specific heat of 0.5, meaning it takes only 0.5 BTUs to raise the temperature of 1 pound Ethylene Glycol / water mix 1° F.

A 50/50 Propylene Glycol / water mix has a specific heat of only 0.3.

Therefore, it takes twice as much heat to raise a pound of water 1° F than a 50/50 Ethylene Glycol mix; and over three times as much heat to raise a pound of water 1° F than a 50/50 Propylene Glycol mix.

Ultimately, what this means is that straight water can carry away 50% more heat than 50/50 Ethylene Glycol mix and 70% more heat than 50/50 Propylene Glycol mix per degree per unit volume.





mr.mindless

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #527 on: August 04, 2014, 12:26:00 PM »
Karl Knack told me a couple races ago that switching to straight water cured 95% of his ills because of exactly that fact.

He stores his car in a heated garage.

I keep at least one gallon of antifreeze in my system (that's probably ~20%) to help with galvanic action, rust prevention, and because I don't store things above freezing.
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JEEPWERX

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #528 on: August 04, 2014, 01:32:14 PM »
I know I'll forget and it will freeze.
How low of a ratio is still freeze safe?
Depends on Temps I suppose.

mr.mindless

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #529 on: August 04, 2014, 02:04:03 PM »
That's easy.

Get a hydrometer and test it and get an actual accurate number for like $5.

Or here's a chart. Looks like we should probably aim for ~35% in our climate with low temps almost never hitting the 0 to -10 range.




I was wondering about heat transfer with water wetter after what gif posted. Not a huge difference according to this

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #530 on: August 04, 2014, 03:51:33 PM »

JEEPWERX

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #531 on: August 05, 2014, 07:56:34 AM »
I think smike usd the term Snake Oil.
We used to buy the stuff by the case for the Race Bikes.
No Glycol allowed on the Track!

jaysenodell

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #532 on: August 05, 2014, 08:36:40 AM »
I think I'm following this but let's make sure I'm not a complete moron…


I'm looking at 1 to two week with "near freezing" temps (might get to 32 over night). In the summer it is nearly always 90+ with lows in the upper 70s. In my case I could run straight water (with some type of additive to help prevent rust) from Feb to Dec. In Jan I would want to add a quart or so of AF to avoid frozen coolant. The upside to this is more efficient engine cooling system. The down side would be remembering to add the AF and flushing the coolant every spring.


Right?


Is there any real advantage to the engine life/efficiency? Seems to me that this would be "better" for the environment as there would be less chemical dripping from my various cooling systems. Granted the coolant drips are much smaller than the various forms of petroleum drips…
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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #533 on: August 05, 2014, 04:25:23 PM »
I think I'm following this but let's make sure I'm not a complete moron…


I'm looking at 1 to two week with "near freezing" temps (might get to 32 over night). In the summer it is nearly always 90+ with lows in the upper 70s. In my case I could run straight water (with some type of additive to help prevent rust) from Feb to Dec. In Jan I would want to add a quart or so of AF to avoid frozen coolant. The upside to this is more efficient engine cooling system. The down side would be remembering to add the AF and flushing the coolant every spring.


Right?


Is there any real advantage to the engine life/efficiency? Seems to me that this would be "better" for the environment as there would be less chemical dripping from my various cooling systems. Granted the coolant drips are much smaller than the various forms of petroleum drips…

are you having cooling issues?   many other factors involved...

jaysenodell

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #534 on: August 05, 2014, 04:33:44 PM »
Issues? No. Jeep temp just slightly higher here. Drip rate the same. But if I don't have to put glycol in then I'd rather not (nasty stuff).

Now the ford ('11 focus) is definitely running hotter. Still under trouble temp (last odb2 was 224 after longish drive). That likely just need a coolant change as its looking darker than normal (but definitely not oil contaminated).
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mr.mindless

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #535 on: August 05, 2014, 05:40:37 PM »
Jeep is dripping?
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jaysenodell

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #536 on: August 05, 2014, 10:39:10 PM »
Always has. Pinion seals. Valve cover. Oil pan. Radiator drain valve. Overflow can.

Oh and the shower that comes out of the power steering reservoir.
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JEEPWERX

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #537 on: August 06, 2014, 07:56:47 AM »
That's not good sir.

mr.mindless

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #538 on: August 06, 2014, 08:00:02 AM »
Long list!
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etk300ex

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Re: matts buggy build
« Reply #539 on: August 06, 2014, 08:07:36 AM »
The Toyota used to leak all that but it will stop if you hang in there and wait it out!