Author Topic: 571  (Read 93575 times)

M4wdFab

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 22477
  • Karma: +11/-22
Re: 571
« Reply #300 on: July 18, 2014, 11:11:34 AM »
there are no warranties in racing

mr.mindless

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 15373
  • Karma: +2/-16
Re: 571
« Reply #301 on: July 18, 2014, 12:28:12 PM »
Oh, it was in my street driven mullet mobile camaro, eh?


A sadist came up with torque convertor bolts. I wish that flex plate had 3mm more clearance to the motor. So shitty.

This torque convertor has roughly the spec 1/8-3/16" clearance when pushed back on the trans. I bet that other one had ~3/8. Definitely needs spacers if it ever gets reused but I'll probably get another from Jegs if I like this one. $104 new no core and the stall that I'm told I want. We'll see.


Tapatalking in traffic
Quote from: etk300ex
oh lord!

M4wdFab

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 22477
  • Karma: +11/-22
Re: 571
« Reply #302 on: July 18, 2014, 12:50:53 PM »
ripped down norman rd and into trailer ETA?


you rolling enclosed or popup and lowboy?

mr.mindless

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 15373
  • Karma: +2/-16
571
« Reply #303 on: July 18, 2014, 05:10:58 PM »
Haven't decided on trailer. Real bed has schrong appeal but I think enclosed will win for ease of packing.

Cooler flushing was super annoying and took forever. All that stuff up front holds a full pan of fluid so by the time anything came out it was sucking air. Got it sorted and trans is done.

Still need to do water pump, floor, seat, net, tins. It's gonna be late. Of course ::)

Breakfast was good just now. Half gallon of fluids too. I'm gonna be in great racing shape! At least it's a late start tmw. And I'm losing weight :)

U4 diet...


Tapatalking in traffic
« Last Edit: July 18, 2014, 05:12:39 PM by mr.mindless »
Quote from: etk300ex
oh lord!

mr.mindless

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 15373
  • Karma: +2/-16
Re: 571
« Reply #304 on: July 29, 2014, 11:25:46 AM »
After shock reassembly, how is the oil bled? If my understanding of a remote resi shock is correct, there should be nothing but oil on the shock side of some sort of piston or diaphragm in the remote reservoir, with N2 on the schrader side maintaining oil pressure and preventing any foaming or cavitation as heat builds, right?


short term musts:
front diff seals are gone
need to check front wheel bearings. Tried to tighten one that felt loose and is giving me a low brake pedal, but it wouldn't give me any more preload.
check shock and bump pressures; investigate RR shock leak at remote hose
kickdown cable
replace blown bushings (confirmed they are 3"), order spares, replace Matt's 1 stock
replace rear amber light, tighten up hole so it can't fall out

mid term musts:
fix front bumper
fix or replace winch
fan controller and/or replace thermostat
clearance 6th wheel and mount tire, swap for bad spare wheel
tcase shifters

mid term nicities:
rewire, redo dash & console
pumper & helmet
shock tuning
swaybar
rock rings/wheels
better trans dipstick
rebuild front driveshaft
limit straps F&R
Dzus side tins, over batt, over brakes

longer term:
rear air bumps
1.5:1 steering quickener
regear? decide to what... I keep thinking how a married 203/205 would be nearly the same length, relatively cheap (compared to Atlas or Hero for sure!), and that I could run ~3.55-4.10 axles, and run 2:1 all the time with 4:1 in the rocks, with WAY easier range shifting.
aluminum links; all heim joints?
power brakes?
« Last Edit: July 29, 2014, 05:05:19 PM by mr.mindless »
Quote from: etk300ex
oh lord!

M4wdFab

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 22477
  • Karma: +11/-22
Re: 571
« Reply #305 on: July 29, 2014, 11:38:50 AM »
i found these guys


looks like about a grand to do my car

mr.mindless

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 15373
  • Karma: +2/-16
Re: 571
« Reply #306 on: July 29, 2014, 12:00:45 PM »
I'm guessing that's links? no link...

that seems pretty reasonable for 6 sticks of bling
Quote from: etk300ex
oh lord!

M4wdFab

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 22477
  • Karma: +11/-22
Re: 571
« Reply #307 on: July 29, 2014, 12:04:46 PM »

M4wdFab

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 22477
  • Karma: +11/-22
Re: 571
« Reply #308 on: July 29, 2014, 12:05:25 PM »
100-165 a stick for 2"  you could probably go smaller size on uppers

mr.mindless

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 15373
  • Karma: +2/-16
Re: 571
« Reply #309 on: July 29, 2014, 12:35:16 PM »
2 lower/ 1.75 upper probably
Quote from: etk300ex
oh lord!

mr.mindless

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 15373
  • Karma: +2/-16
Re: 571
« Reply #310 on: July 29, 2014, 12:37:45 PM »
A single slit and steel clamping collar (in similar style to factory tie rods) would probably do the trick to help not rip threads out and keep things tight. I do not trust nor put stock in jam nuts.
Quote from: etk300ex
oh lord!

M4wdFab

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 22477
  • Karma: +11/-22
Re: 571
« Reply #311 on: July 29, 2014, 01:02:28 PM »
i didnt either, but none of mine have ever come loose on 572 yet and they arent welded.  I think actually having enough articulation stops the movement that causes loose jam nuts

gif

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1750
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: 571
« Reply #312 on: July 29, 2014, 02:22:08 PM »
i was looking at these last year.

http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/11145/7075-T6-Aluminum-Links.aspx

up to 2.5"       thats more meat around the cut threads for a 1.25"  heim


gif

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1750
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: 571
« Reply #313 on: July 29, 2014, 02:29:55 PM »
A single slit and steel clamping collar (in similar style to factory tie rods) would probably do the trick to help not rip threads out and keep things tight. I do not trust nor put stock in jam nuts.

im not worried about the threads pulling out.  Im worried about when you slam down on the link and the wall around the threads blows out.

2.0" - 1.25" / 2 =  .375" wall @ threaded area
« Last Edit: July 29, 2014, 02:32:35 PM by gif »

M4wdFab

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 22477
  • Karma: +11/-22
Re: 571
« Reply #314 on: July 29, 2014, 02:54:47 PM »
ya id go 2.5"s i just hadnt spent a ton of time looking.


price per inch!  eeek!