571

[mr.mindless]

6 bills for a helmet and pumper now, or 6 bills for a helmet and pumper later...

[M4wdFab]

Now.

They are epic

[mr.mindless]

saved a hundo by not single sourcing. should have in time for racing. yay more things?

[mr.mindless]

Need to either straighten a bumper tonight or cut it off.

planning on doing some car work other than that too, we'll see where motivation is at after working on other shit all week. Not a lot of prep NEEDED for the picnic but I'd like to get this shit done

! straighten bumper, install hitch ball!
- new trans dipstick
- trans kickdown cable
- hook up vacuum modulator
- tcase shifters
- front axle seals
? fan controller
? circuit & switch for pumper high & low

[M4wdFab]

no prep needed other than fix limit strap and check shock pressures



flight time! 

[mr.mindless]

Both things I keep forgetting about! Uugh. Should have measured for and ordered real straps.

[mr.mindless]

All frame side upper bushings were totally raped. Changed.

Heims on front lowers especially right side have a healthy click. Ignoring.

Front bumps both at ~250. Didn't touch em, has felt great.

Both front shocks at 150. Bumped up to 220. RF shock seems to have had a resi seal failure, there is significant oil on the N2 side. Probably lost 2-5cc.

RR is the one leaking at the remote fitting. Still had 110. Tightened fitting (was a bit loose) and went to 230.

LR had 150. Took to 230.

Rear had faded much worse so I figured I'd give it a little extra extra.

Both rears seemed to have some oil in the n2 side as well. Not as bad as the RF though. Back to my "how do you bleed?" question I suppose.

Still todo
Lock down tcase bolts. Found one loose on passenger floor.
Diag hard start electrical. Which switch is flakey?
Pumper install and wire. Will steal from horn circuit.
Swap light bar switch. Died for the picnic so I'm glad we didn't night wheel.
Should swap some tires around and put the new leaker on trailer spare duty (AOAA rim damage)
That's about it for musts. Fuck the leaking front seal. Next week...

[M4wdFab]

did you fill at full extension?

[Ryan]

How do you bleed?

What are you looking to bleed? I must have missed this question.

[mr.mindless]

Yes full extension. Well, actually ~1" compressed in rear - I didn't remove limit straps.

I can't find where I asked about bleeding either. No wonder I got no answers. To restate what I swear I once typed somewhere here:
If my understanding is correct, with a remote resi shock, all the oil is in the shock body doing the dampening and continues through a hose into the remote resi, where a piston separates a nitrogen charge from the oil. The N2 charge allows for volume change as the shaft displaces oil, allows for thermal expansion, and the pressure helps prevent foaming/cavitation. When you take a shock apart, how do you fill and bleed the oil side of that system? I guess I could probably find that in a howto on shock rebuilding/valving...

If oil has leaked to the N2 side, I've got to assume that N2 has leaked to the oil side as well and that's surely not a helpful thing to effective dampening and fade resistance

[mr.mindless]

looks like this is going to cover what I'm after
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/coilovers/Part_2/

[mr.mindless]

Yup, covers procedure well and works as I figured it had to.

Looks like I should probably get some IFP o rings (internal floating piston - that's what separates oil & N2) and take things apart to make them right. Annoying. If I'm going in, I should decide on a first take on valving changes as well.

[Ryan]

Yes, that is the guide that is most helpful.

I can check what I have left for o-rings to see if I kept any of them.

[mr.mindless]

After shock reassembly, how is the oil bled? If my understanding of a remote resi shock is correct, there should be nothing but oil on the shock side of some sort of piston or diaphragm in the remote reservoir, with N2 on the schrader side maintaining oil pressure and preventing any foaming or cavitation as heat builds, right?

IDK why I couldn't find that with what I was searching for....

Updated list:

short term musts:
replace flakey starter button
wire & mount pumper
new light bar switch
clearance 6th wheel and mount tire, swap for bad wheel (new to LF, LF to spare, spare to trailer at 50psi)
lube shifter

mid term musts:
front diff seals
rebuild shocks - new IFP seals and change valving while they're apart
fix or replace winch
fan controller and/or replace thermostat
tcase shifters

mid term nicities:
fix front bumper mo' betta - new winch plate & standoff tube
straighten spare tire carrier
kickdown cable
vacuum modulator
trans dipstick
tcase shifters
rewire, redo dash & console
shock tuning
rock rings/wheels
rebuild front driveshaft
real limit straps F&R
Dzus side tins, over batt, over brakes

longer term:
swaybar
rear air bumps
1.5:1 steering quickener
regear? decide to what... I keep thinking how a married 203/205 would be nearly the same length, relatively cheap (compared to Atlas or Hero for sure!), and that I could run ~3.55-4.10 axles, and run 2:1 all the time with 4:1 in the rocks, with WAY easier range shifting.
aluminum links; all heim joints?
power brakes?

[mr.mindless]

smike, do you have any spare seatbelt buckles that match what I have? I need to make a new lower window net bar on the passenger side. Lost one a month or two ago on the way to your shop. I think just before the 4th of july.