Author Topic: 1973 CJ6  (Read 91232 times)

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #30 on: February 19, 2013, 07:11:44 PM »
time for me is always worth more than money unfortunately....

the search has begun... either way I can always flip them.. 
seem to have damn good luck selling parts I buy and dont use..
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #31 on: February 20, 2013, 08:03:37 AM »
ya you have to be patient.  i need a front 60 for parts still.

matt stole his. 


i pay 600 for the lest 3 sets in field condition

sold a set for 600 i should have kept i guess.

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #32 on: February 20, 2013, 08:18:10 AM »
when it comes to parts sourcing patience is not one of my stong points....

dont even know what way im going... but found a set of CUCV for 1K...
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

KingtheZJ

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #33 on: February 20, 2013, 08:20:56 AM »
axle wrap :  myth people whole build shitty lifted jeeps made up


Tons go chevy 60/14

Tires:  H1 wheels have 7.25" back space and the military 37"s are quite attainable for cheep.  wear like steel, look awesome- seem to have good reviews off road for the buck



your NT jeep NEEDS at least 2" on each side to be "normal"  with 37" and h1's it look awesome.  i have seen tons under TJs you cant even tell they are 37's because they look great. 


could do a custom long side on the chevy front, and then run two short sides in the rear 14.  this would eliminate your outboard spring issues also on the cheep.....

my unorganized thought dump on this....


H1s need wheel spacers to be run with stock knuckles. if you chop off the stock tie rod mount and run high steer (have to be special for h1 wheels) you can get away with no spacers. hubs stick out like woah

h1s are 9" wide and 16.5"
h2s are 8.5" wide  and 17s and 5" bs

military Goodyears are 125 each + shipping off pirate. is best ive found really. i may have a set for sale if i hear back from shit-for-brains on CL

custom long side on the front is way easy. harry did it in a night. $200 for custom chromo shaft

srw 14 bolt housing with drw hubs = a c&c at 63" WMS. see 14b bible on pirate.

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #34 on: February 20, 2013, 08:43:52 AM »
Tranny officially acquired..
Being picked up this weekend by a buddy in NH and brought down to SVE for low gears and a quick go over..

1979 CJ7 T-18a with IH Scout Dana 300, Twin stick & AMC BH


I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

etk300ex

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #35 on: February 20, 2013, 09:12:51 AM »
I'm hardly one to talk but step it up.  Resto-mod is magazine material.
 

Das right!

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #36 on: February 20, 2013, 09:17:14 AM »
i wheeled the Wee out of my scrambler with stock locking hubs and h1's  they stick out, but won tons take it just fine.


this thing will be 99.9 street / wharehouse wheeling anyway




bolting up eriks axle would be the easest too though!

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #37 on: February 20, 2013, 09:29:21 AM »
this thing will be 99.9 street / wharehouse wheeling anyway

bolting up eriks axle would be the easest too though!

thats kinda what im trying to avoid or decide....

I actually thought last night while walkign the dog, I should throw the axles under the YJ and make that the didicated trail truck...  Make the 6 the RestoMod mall crawler...

Eriks axles are too damn deep...
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #38 on: February 20, 2013, 09:32:20 AM »
spring perch dims are probably not correct on eriks axles if they were set up for a 7   - not an issue, but additional labor


rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #39 on: February 20, 2013, 09:38:39 AM »
but a 9" has a 3rd member... easy to buy a cirrect ratio prof. set up........
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #40 on: February 20, 2013, 10:39:40 AM »
NOS 72-75 CJ6 Frame..

Picked up by a broken back employee out in OH on its way to ROC....

I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #41 on: February 20, 2013, 10:55:16 AM »
why does the front cross member look like it was smashed with a fork lift haha


looks POR ready too

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #42 on: February 20, 2013, 11:03:37 AM »
I thought that too until I got a better picture...
light and stock indentation vs. color variance = bad picture
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #43 on: February 20, 2013, 11:39:43 AM »
Just to do something different..... what about J20 axles? 44HD/D60
I dont need Tons and I think it would kinda cool to do something different..

found this while doing some interwebbing..

I used J20 axles in my Jeep, same setup you're talking about. I was able to have the driver side of the rear shortened to center the pumpkin. Both sides of the 44 had to be shortenened in order for the forged housing spring perch to line up properly.  I got a 61" WMS - WMS with 3 axle cuts, 2 front, 1 rear. I did not have to outboard the springs. That's one reason I did it this way.

they are 8 lug axles.. so I could still use H1/2 wheels and be just a bit wider than stock....
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

mr.mindless

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #44 on: February 20, 2013, 11:49:19 AM »
Finding a set for under $800 is getting harder and harder.

I just paid $450 for the set of 60s I just got, I had to drive 2 hours to get them. And that was the best deal I have got on a set. Paid $500 for the ones in the Profender buggy.

If your time is more valuable than mine finding a good set local for $800-$1000 would not be a bad thing, shipping would be what $500? I had a good day with the kids in the truck, so it was a good road trip.


I'd agree.

the sub-$700 sets take some shopping and waiting.
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