MMTR Brolite

[rejeep]

mike ill send you a text shortly

[mr.mindless]

73 cj5 stock length 7” with small taper
Power ranger arm 5” with medium taper

I poked a hole in the cj arm at 6” and made a medium taper. If this works I’ll run it. Might do minor plating since its a thinner arm.

Installing after a snack. Wish me luck




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[M4wdFab]

neat

[wnyjpgy]

This might be hard to explain.. But I'm going to take a shot at it..

I had previous pit man arm failure on my scrambler and decided I wanted to  make a custom pitman arm.

I ended up using  the steering box end of the pitman arm to retain the splined end and approximately 1"of the arm length to create a "key".

I drew up a new pitman arm (wider and the length I needed) and cut it out on my plasma at work  using 1" think material, with the exact shape of the pitman arm I cut up "key", think hole or internal opening, and then tig welded it all together and reamed the drag link hole where I needed it.

The reason I created a key was to take the load off of the weld it's self.

I just wanted to throw it out there..

[mr.mindless]

Fully plan on ghetto fabbing an arm with these splines if needed.   


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[Wingman]

cut, splice, plate = done?

[rejeep]

dorman doesn't make pitman arms?

[rejeep]

moog K8754

I don't have here but listed as ford ranger pitman arm

[mr.mindless]

that’ll be a power steering  arm


Here’s the input ujoint. Goodbye rag




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[mr.mindless]

Slowpoke is headed to build some bumpers. Everything else done.



Except for what I forgot...


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[mr.mindless]

Bumpers came out AWESOME. Much better than the pictures of the bumpers.






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[mr.mindless]

Manual steering was a mistake. Handled like absolute shit with the new front ride height too. I’ll give it a second chance after aligning properly but it might just be the increased ride height.

Had to fix a rear shock mount fuckup on-site, many thanks to the Jokinens for the welder use.

Rolled it in practice and have some front clip straightening to do. Had to put a front coil back in place too. Might beef up the inner retaining ring though a 5/16 retainer bolt did hold through the final.

3rd place in the final after missing the heat race for repairs.


List for 10/22:
Alignment
- fancy camber bushings
- fresh tie rods & adjusters
Swap power box back in
- right input ujoint for steering shaft
- New pressure and return lines
Figure out why the motor moved far enough to crush the steering lines and fix it. Motor mounts?






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[etk300ex]

nice!

[mr.mindless]

watching my rollover video, front droop was absolutely the cause. the outside beam jacked and the tire laid down and tripped it.

front swaybar didn't do shit, and may actually have harmed since the inside corner's spring rate helped push down the outside tire.

correct method to fix is to lower the beam pivot point. we can't do that.

not sure if going to max negative camber would help much. it's the additional droop/travel that caused the issue - but having that additional travel to soak up a landing is pretty invaluable. I don't know if anything could be done in shock tuning for more rebound valving as a handling bandaid that would worsen suspension performance overall.

I think I will go to max camber, maybe cut half or one coil off to get it sitting lower and have a hair less droop, and get now steering hardware in there to get toe right where it should be. Along with power steering to react to that more easily maybe it'll be better.

[M4wdFab]

it was pretty rutted there too. 

if you watch the Main race i pushed that front right tire off the rim that ended my race in the same spot... my truck looks in control just digging hard with body level. 


i think you have too much lateral traction with those tires in the rear, not letting the truck slide out in a controlled drift or what ever you fancy race drivers call it