Post by: M4wdFab on February 28, 2015, 04:29:01 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 28, 2015, 04:57:51 PM
He was driving it w brokenfront spring hangers. Brake line went and he driove it for 3 more days. Shop couldn't fix it since they can't pick it up.
$300 '97
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: CJ on February 28, 2015, 05:04:27 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on February 28, 2015, 06:35:30 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 01, 2015, 09:31:15 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 10, 2015, 03:55:41 PM
Tonight's objective: remove broken shit. Bed, spring hangers, etc. Inventory exhaust. Fix brakes. Maybe get to installing things?
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on March 10, 2015, 04:22:58 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 10, 2015, 04:25:18 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on March 10, 2015, 04:31:53 PM
ya big torx i think
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 10, 2015, 05:08:59 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 10, 2015, 11:32:16 PM
Rotten frame behind gas tank needs patching. Scale was completely hiding that until we were pounding rivets out. One crossmember is Swiss cheese. All hangers are off. Leaves look good.
Need two spring bolts, intermediate pipe between cat and muffler.
Fuel tank straps are gone. probably ignore that. Wish I could ignore exhaust as easily!
Bad brake line is up front somewhere. Everything under the bed is new.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/10/281dc21df577fef097123d0db3071ccb.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/10/e282af65e0394c4e13833fc9b810de95.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/10/257a4f08a8133fe85319405b4217f0d5.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/10/7a2eac01e34a27a678563b0efee8cf3e.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: jacel86 on March 10, 2015, 11:40:00 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 10, 2015, 11:55:06 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 11, 2015, 12:21:18 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: rejeep on March 11, 2015, 05:57:54 AM
i made sure we have everything :)
Post by: Wingman on March 11, 2015, 07:49:20 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 11, 2015, 07:54:30 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 11, 2015, 07:55:29 AM
You owned a 40 or less torx and were in a "jeep-ish" club? ?? For shame!!! LolHe didn't own a jeep silly!
Dakota s have poprivets!
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 11, 2015, 07:56:59 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 11, 2015, 07:58:22 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 11, 2015, 08:17:05 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 11, 2015, 09:07:55 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 11, 2015, 09:19:31 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 11, 2015, 09:33:55 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 13, 2015, 05:00:16 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 16, 2015, 11:39:34 PM
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/16/812170ac20e5d449c6427c77da66c867.jpg)
Next session: hang front of springs, tank and exhaust in, bed on, tighten spring bolts, flip it around in the garage and do a brake line. Done. ?
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on March 17, 2015, 11:55:33 AM
Post by: CJ on March 17, 2015, 11:59:32 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 17, 2015, 12:47:31 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 22, 2015, 01:32:48 AM
Flipped shackles seem really low. Maybe 5" from tube to frame with a full tank, spare tire, bumper and no bed.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on July 29, 2015, 11:25:22 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 29, 2015, 11:31:08 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 29, 2015, 05:24:09 PM
rest is easy :)
still street-able as a goal once its been bro'd? or bro now with caution so can be made back to street next phase
Post by: mr.mindless on July 29, 2015, 05:39:50 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: JEEPWERX on July 29, 2015, 06:18:28 PM
Rest is easy peasy!
When are we scheduling the first bro night?
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Post by: M4wdFab on August 10, 2015, 01:10:51 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 10, 2015, 01:20:48 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on August 10, 2015, 02:39:29 PM
8 or 10" would be more than enough up front. gets tight near the Brake booster
Post by: M4wdFab on September 02, 2015, 02:24:04 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 02, 2015, 02:24:37 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 02, 2015, 02:26:36 PM
And im shopping for a rental bro- looking at another extened cab this weekend
Post by: KingtheZJ on September 02, 2015, 02:43:49 PM
If so PM me.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 02, 2015, 02:47:23 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 02, 2015, 02:50:23 PM
boo.
agreed.
for the best, I guess. More important and longer term things have priority. Also, avoiding fines from Brighton.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 02, 2015, 03:19:48 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on September 02, 2015, 05:09:54 PM
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Post by: M4wdFab on September 03, 2015, 09:39:36 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2015, 11:15:05 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2015, 11:15:45 PM
I have too much going on to build it solo and we’ve got plenty of house shit to work on together. Would be nice to have something for fun. Next year I guess.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Wingman on September 04, 2015, 07:26:23 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 04, 2015, 02:42:15 PM
i prefer the extended cab though
Post by: M4wdFab on September 28, 2015, 01:48:12 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 28, 2015, 01:50:11 PM
definitely can't build a truck.
want to go anyway. not sure if there will be any chances for u4 rounds, I'm guessing not since I got the impression things are already set and brolites are the added event to an existing race.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 28, 2015, 01:56:50 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on September 28, 2015, 05:52:51 PM
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Post by: M4wdFab on September 28, 2015, 06:16:55 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 28, 2015, 06:36:59 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on September 28, 2015, 07:13:04 PM
Same pricing structure for the mule? :D
Post by: mr.mindless on September 28, 2015, 07:17:19 PM
mule is more like $500 trans, $500 axles, $350 tcase, and probably $300 in scrap minus a day's labor pricing structure. I would take $500 for it right now with no tires if it was going to do something more than get scrapped, or I'd take buyer's choice of the 800 I have into it, or 50% of profit, if it is being parted/scraped.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 28, 2015, 07:18:09 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on September 29, 2015, 08:04:53 AM
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Post by: M4wdFab on September 29, 2015, 09:47:01 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 29, 2015, 10:17:40 AM
Do I hear 325? :D
Post by: JEEPWERX on September 29, 2015, 10:59:10 AM
300.00
Going once?
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Post by: M4wdFab on September 29, 2015, 11:14:47 AM
just made a jeggs cart
683$ will get you
Shopping Cart
Terrain Suspension Seat
Black Velour
Part Number # 942-80-1620-61
This item will ship Today.
$173.66 $173.66
Fuel Cell w/Steel Can
12 Gallon
(1) -8AN Male Outlet
(1) -8AN Male Rollover Vent
19"L x 19"W x 11"H
Part Number # 555-15511
This item will ship Today.
$191.99 $191.99
Blue High-Flow Fuel Cell Bulkhead Fitting
-6AN
Part Number # 555-100560
This item will ship Today.
$11.99 $11.99
AN Female to Hose Barb Adapter
-6AN Female to 3/8" ID Hose
Blue
Part Number # 555-100845
This item will ship Today.
$6.99 $6.99
Barb Swivel Fitting
-8AN Female x 3/8 Barb
Each
Part Number # 259-98201
This item will ship Today.
$8.99 $17.98
Master Battery Disconnect Switch
125 Amps
3/4" Mounting Hole
3/8" Terminals
No Faceplate
Part Number # 555-10305
This item will ship Today.
$22.99 $22.99
5-Point Cam-Lock Racing Harness
Black
Part Number # 140-30298
This item will ship Today.
$64.95 $64.95
Remove
3/8" Universal Fuel Hose
Length: 25'
Part Number # 555-15998
This item will ship Today.
$24.99 $24.99
5/16" Universal Fuel Hose
Length: 25'
Part Number # 555-15995
This item will ship Today.
$20.99 $20.99
In-Line Gasoline Filter
Height: 3.67"
In/Out: 3/8" Tube Connector
Diameter: 1.75"
Part Number # 410-G3
This item will ship Today.
$4.69 $4.69
Universal 28x19x2.2 Gm Chevy Aluminum Radiator TL-BR O/Lets Non Polished
Part Number # 746-PCE190.1018
This item is expected to ship in 24hrs.
$125.00 $125.00
14" Straight Blade Electric Fan
Height: 14.5"
Width: 14.875"
Thickness: 3.5"
Blades: 10
CFM: 1,585
RPM's: 1,945
Amp Draw: 7.9
Part Number # 746-PCE185.1007
This item will ship Today.
$17.25 $17.25
Shipping Options
FREE Ground Subtotal:$683.47
FREE Handling: $0.00 FREE Shipping:$0.00Tax:$0.00
Total: $683.47
Post by: M4wdFab on September 29, 2015, 11:20:33 AM
fuel cell
AN fittings
Filter
MS disco
Radiator
Radiator Fan
short of tube, shocks, fire ext, and radiator hoses, clamps thats a bro.
Post by: GBR928 on September 29, 2015, 11:58:35 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 29, 2015, 01:14:59 PM
Post by: CJ on September 29, 2015, 01:23:11 PM
I like purple much better than the pink one.... but the pink one has the short bed
Post by: GBR928 on September 29, 2015, 01:32:23 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 29, 2015, 01:48:53 PM
Eric is the only one with any arm twist since I've owed him a case of cider forever...
You all need to do better ;)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on September 29, 2015, 01:50:39 PM
man you guys are rough on mike
Like I don't deserve it ::)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on September 29, 2015, 05:26:01 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on September 29, 2015, 05:43:45 PM
I didn't set the price and then knock it down in the same post.
I just saw an opportunity to buy another running and driving truck for parts.
It's worth 300.00 to me
Or apparently 302.00 now.
LOL
That's my limit
No hard feelings if you sell it
To mike or matt.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Post by: M4wdFab on March 23, 2016, 04:11:26 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 29, 2016, 04:57:50 PM
order some parts to have on hand! full broabrication will be in full operation at M4 after the Rausch race.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 29, 2016, 05:26:52 PM
forgetting anything outside misc consumables & steel?
Post by: M4wdFab on March 29, 2016, 05:57:23 PM
stock shocks fine. i assume stock steering wheel column.
id rather get a good radiator in there with efan but meh
o, window net?
Post by: M4wdFab on March 29, 2016, 05:58:57 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 29, 2016, 06:07:10 PM
your probably goingto run a full front end though i bet to cut down on initial build.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 29, 2016, 09:15:09 PM
is this the fuel pump I want? I saw 40psi spec'd but I guess if it's a return style that's really just a minimum. Is that the same pump in 571 as well?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PREMIUM-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-INLINE-FUEL-PUMP-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-GA2000-/380959815042?hash=item58b2f97582:g:1xcAAOSwxCxT0tor&vxp=mtr
Post by: mr.mindless on March 29, 2016, 09:26:55 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 30, 2016, 09:01:05 AM
more like this guy
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Inline-External-Mount-Fuel-Pump-70-95-PSI-For-Ford-Lincoln-Mercury-Vehicles/360985861193?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231133846%26meid%3D841f7456ce114c1b9f317c3d42044380%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D19%26sd%3D121939668021
search E2000, and whatever china one comes up interchangageable.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 30, 2016, 09:02:12 AM
this is what i last ordered 4 of
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221472628293?item=221472628293&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OU:US:1120&vxp=mtr
Post by: M4wdFab on March 30, 2016, 09:03:41 AM
my shocks might be for sale, but not sure for the first race.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 30, 2016, 01:10:31 PM
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL76405
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 30, 2016, 08:34:36 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 30, 2016, 09:59:53 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on March 31, 2016, 02:40:14 PM
My steel 15s would be available to trade if needed.
Going to try the UTV tire route and see how it goes. all sizes are 6 ply rated; 14s are much cheaper than 15s.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 31, 2016, 02:42:51 PM
would be nice to compare weights. lighter == mo' betta
Post by: M4wdFab on March 31, 2016, 02:53:07 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on April 01, 2016, 02:22:28 PM
Planning to cut my BFGs. Mostly for steering. But your point is valid. They don't slide laterally in the rear. They bite and grab.
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Post by: JEEPWERX on April 01, 2016, 02:24:13 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 01, 2016, 02:37:47 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on April 01, 2016, 02:38:16 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 01, 2016, 02:40:38 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 05, 2016, 10:00:22 AM
interested in grabbing this for me tonight? (you pay and pick up, with clean signed but undated title and open receipt)
ill trade it for time and materials to put in a simple cage in yours if you drop it gutted. cage would be just like mine, id leave shock mounts and seat mounts for you to do
http://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/5505816315.html
Post by: mr.mindless on April 05, 2016, 12:15:39 PM
I see there's an overpriced xcab in need of motor in buffalo.
a few other under-a-grand regular cabs up right now too.
ever talk to the Brighton/Henrietta or Naples posts? Unless the first is you. I didn't check the phone number but it didn't sound like you...
Post by: M4wdFab on April 05, 2016, 01:13:36 PM
didnt talk to him about pickup or if i could get him lower than 600 on it.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 05, 2016, 03:22:43 PM
im running 12"s up front there is probabaly 8"to the hood. probably dont use 2" of uptravel where they are mounted.
8 or 10" would be more than enough up front. gets tight near the Brake booster
your recent comments don't seem to jibe with this.
I'd love to reuse profender stuff for now and save a chunk of change while I pour dollars into the real car that's less fun. was it that much of a packaging problem up front or could I jam more shims in the compression side until Fox gets their head out of their ass and gets inventory flowing?
Post by: M4wdFab on April 05, 2016, 05:23:15 PM
I removed the clutch and went willwood, i may do the same with the brakes. A lot of my problems were because of the 35's but i still have problems with the shocks way too cloose to the coil towers (already cut down) and the booster. they have to be tipped in because they hit the tires at compression.
have to keep lower factory mount- makes things hard. if you could loose the booster and just run manual brakes, you could fit a 16" in there i bet.
i have 12 front 14 rear. 2.0 smooth. fiting a 12 2.5 will be a chore with my car with out brake changes.
i dont know if i answered your question
Post by: mr.mindless on April 06, 2016, 11:51:09 AM
fronts will surely be good on factory 14s. might buy a pair of 14x9s for the 11" wide rears.
excited to see how a totally different tire setup than anyone else is running will do.
Post by: jacel86 on April 06, 2016, 01:03:10 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 06, 2016, 01:50:39 PM
They’re 6 ply rated. I think thats factory on the trucks.
I didn’t bother to check maxxis to see if they list an actual weight capacity. It’ll be fine!
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on April 06, 2016, 01:54:27 PM
Maybe close to capacity on steers.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on April 06, 2016, 02:20:57 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 06, 2016, 04:13:40 PM
Post by: jacel86 on April 06, 2016, 07:53:09 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 06, 2016, 08:48:56 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: JEEPWERX on April 07, 2016, 09:55:39 PM
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Post by: Wingman on April 07, 2016, 10:59:55 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 12, 2016, 01:20:08 PM
Unmounted they sit at 7†and 9†rim width. I think I’ll be ordering rear wheels.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160412/a19cb15b9e0a8d4f0518e0b215b9bf54.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: JEEPWERX on April 12, 2016, 02:41:28 PM
Keep that rear Trac width narrow and the front wide!
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Post by: M4wdFab on April 12, 2016, 04:17:26 PM
wheelspacers!
Post by: mr.mindless on April 12, 2016, 04:26:39 PM
That gives me a chance in hell of horse trading that work with someone else. Fingers crossed!
Otherwise I'm pretty well screwed out of the season opener.
Post by: JEEPWERX on April 12, 2016, 04:41:44 PM
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Post by: M4wdFab on April 14, 2016, 12:15:20 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 14, 2016, 08:31:36 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 14, 2016, 08:47:31 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on April 14, 2016, 08:57:51 AM
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bassett-48SF2-14X8-D-Hole-5-on-4-5-2-Inch-Backspace-Black-Wheel,71721.html
Post by: mr.mindless on April 14, 2016, 08:58:47 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on April 14, 2016, 09:01:54 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 14, 2016, 05:08:57 PM
I did find a pair of alloy 14x9 on fleabay for rears. If this setup works out, I'll keep an eye out for another pair of 14x9 for a second set. Otherwise I'll just go to 15s. Too much hunting.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/14x9-PRO-WHEEL-5-ON-4-5-LUG-2-/191830374819
Post by: M4wdFab on April 17, 2016, 10:14:06 PM
yours will be a direct copy of the cage other than being 1.75" instead of 1.5" it turned out nice. i even fit in it almost.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 18, 2016, 12:25:57 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on April 18, 2016, 04:29:57 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 18, 2016, 04:38:44 PM
rear down tubes all go to the frame, front pillars tied into cab body mounts like my truck with slight improvements
Post by: mr.mindless on April 26, 2016, 02:35:44 PM
need fuel cell, pump, line
need e-fan
need window net
get 1 more stock 14 and mount remaining tires
something for better bump stops espc in front
check radius arms
replumb & bleed brakes
check shock stash for what I've got travel-wise. may run edelbrock IAS that I have sitting around if they're long enough
will throw in a seat from 571
old 571 harnesses should be in the bed
have main shutoff. may have enough cable to relocate battery
need to empty bed
strip truck, probably put bed on flatbed and strip into it; haul straight to scrap.
- any attempts at selling anything from these? any luck? thinking a mint interior bits might be worth something, ditto air bags, maybe lights, and probably not glass.
I'm thinking leave factory wiring for now, mount cluster and stock column to A pillar spreader. interrupt alt charge/battery + with cutoff switch and hard wire the fan with a 40a fuse. simplest & quickest. Move battery to bed if I've got enough heavy gauge cable around to hit the starter from there.
Flip intake into cab for filter life? Need to adapt one of my cone filters to the right size or grab one.
would like to drop max weight: skin doors, front fenders, delete core support. mount 'glass bedsides, fender skins, door skins; attach grille to hood, pin the hood to the rad mount, and remove the rest.
Weld rear diff
Post by: M4wdFab on April 26, 2016, 05:33:13 PM
no bed and gutted cab delivered to M4 by Wednesday should be the plan for success. Give me a night or two to get most of the cage done, then we can plasma out the front and doors, and have it ready to go minus a fuel system and shocks by saturday night.
it takes me 5 hours to gut and prep a truck
leave front windshield in until interior cage work is done (broken glass sucks!)
I have more wheels available now
Post by: M4wdFab on May 02, 2016, 11:11:47 AM
scratchpad:
fuel cell:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-290112/overview/
pump:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP-FITS-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-VARIOUS-REF-E2000/221472628293?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D36499%26meid%3Dd90139bbf7324b0781726610432ff32c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D152069996559
Fuel fittings:
(3) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-98201
vent bulkhead fitting:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-16893/overview/
Need line:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-80063/overview/
Need filter:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/frm-g3/overview/
need e-fan
need window net
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gfr-4134bk/overview/
get 1 more stock 14 and mount remaining tires
something for better bump stops espc in front
check radius arms
replumb & bleed brakes
check shock stash for what I've got travel-wise. may run edelbrock IAS that I have sitting around if they're long enough
will throw in a seat from 571
old 571 harnesses should be in the bed
have main shutoff. may have enough cable to relocate battery
need to empty bed
strip truck, probably put bed on flatbed and strip into it; haul straight to scrap.
- any attempts at selling anything from these? any luck? thinking a mint interior bits might be worth something, ditto air bags, maybe lights, and probably not glass.
I'm thinking leave factory wiring for now, mount cluster and stock column to A pillar spreader. interrupt alt charge/battery + with cutoff switch and hard wire the fan with a 40a fuse. simplest & quickest. Move battery to bed if I've got enough heavy gauge cable around to hit the starter from there.
Flip intake into cab for filter life? Need to adapt one of my cone filters to the right size or grab one.
would like to drop max weight: skin doors, front fenders, delete core support. mount 'glass bedsides, fender skins, door skins; attach grille to hood, pin the hood to the rad mount, and remove the rest.
Weld rear diff
Post by: mr.mindless on May 02, 2016, 11:33:21 AM
Need line:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-80063/overview/
thought supply and return were 2 different sizes?
Post by: M4wdFab on May 02, 2016, 11:35:12 AM
speed way was best for radiator and a 14" or 17" cheap fan no shroud i run
Post by: M4wdFab on May 02, 2016, 11:50:10 AM
radiator hoses
GTR-52425 (NLA but summit provides another number)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTR-52425
GTR-52418
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTR-52418
gator rad hose clamps (4)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-G31240
CCA-G31240
muffler
WLK-24215
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-24215
02bung relocate
VPE-11105
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-11105
steering cooler
FLX-3818
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-3818
fuel line or steering line clamps for 3/8 hose (12)
CCA-G3912
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-G3912
water proof togle
PCO-5513PT
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCO-5513PT
water proof push button
PCO-5509PT
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCO-5509PT
relay kits
PCO-5591PT
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCO-5591PT
batt cable neg to chassis
SUM-XTP225BK
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-XTP225BK
batt cable disco on to truck
SUM-XSS451R
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-XSS451R
batt cable- batt pos to disco
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-XTP472R
SUM-XTP472R
rad cap http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNN-10230
SNN-10230
rad overflow http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1478
SUM-G1478
Post by: mr.mindless on May 02, 2016, 12:12:21 PM
I probably should have clicked a button to stock up on some electrical connectors too, but I think things should be pretty well covered.
they were out of stock on 5/16 line, so only bought 3/8.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 02, 2016, 12:17:30 PM
Let's get her built anyway. Maybe the MA un-sanctioned race will end up the debut.
I was REALLY hoping to try and get both rigs to Rolling W so I could actually shake something down and make some shock tuning notes. I guess I'll work on it but the baseline is vacation request for 5/14 is denied.
Post by: M4wdFab on May 02, 2016, 01:07:10 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 03, 2016, 01:00:28 AM
Cab empty except a siren speaker.
Garage doesn’t look much fuller, so density is greatly increased.
If anyone wants 1310 or 1330 driveshafts stop over before they hit scrap - hopefully Thursday.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 03, 2016, 01:03:15 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 04, 2016, 01:58:14 AM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/4a8706baca216dafe3352efef2987ce5.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/82c84f71c8c3fe4f5a7e5f9e8785a6f6.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 04, 2016, 10:19:12 AM
how nuts did you go on the wiring? looks like its all gone haha
does it still move?
Post by: mr.mindless on May 04, 2016, 11:19:59 AM
Would it be easier to rewire just the basics like yours is, or to thin out the factory harness?
If I do that, I’d keep gauges, key, bypass inertia and clutch interlock, delete most of the rest. Not sure if the passenger kick panel module or the two modules behind the radio are important?
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 04, 2016, 11:55:13 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 04, 2016, 12:03:25 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 04, 2016, 12:47:57 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 04, 2016, 01:44:35 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160504/efe951715ef0798d8b4fca7f3bbf62a5.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 04, 2016, 01:46:34 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 04, 2016, 02:01:02 PM
Should be less than 3hr :rolleyes:
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 05, 2016, 12:32:56 AM
Would like to get core support off and underhood stripping done tmw. Fuel cell vs rad mount stuff depends on smikes cage work order of operations...
Exciting to see this coming together! Two days in a row of meeting goals is great too.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: JEEPWERX on May 05, 2016, 08:25:14 AM
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Post by: M4wdFab on May 05, 2016, 09:15:36 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 05, 2016, 10:12:54 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 06, 2016, 10:05:57 AM
rear upper shocks mounted
doors cut out
more under hood junk removed
Post by: mr.mindless on May 06, 2016, 10:08:54 AM
that wiper linkage is just amazing... that's got to take 15m to install through those little holes.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 08, 2016, 09:46:03 AM
Good day yesterday.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160508/1ddd971c3f0c712055ab3839e8ed3a6a.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160508/36122fcecc92c07307464af6c5de6f16.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 09, 2016, 09:51:04 AM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160509/9c62f314d9fd75b98fb81d8d760d779c.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 09, 2016, 01:47:33 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 09, 2016, 02:08:04 PM
like to think about another spring change in my truck meh
Post by: mr.mindless on May 09, 2016, 02:52:29 PM
Might be able to wrap it in one sitting. I think it’ll be close.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 10, 2016, 12:57:39 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 10, 2016, 01:12:20 AM
should be one more night of details and good to go!
Post by: M4wdFab on May 11, 2016, 01:01:46 AM
shop lot ripped around and it feels nice and tight!
Post by: JEEPWERX on May 11, 2016, 11:40:36 AM
Cover positive battery terminal
Number panels behind cab.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Post by: matt on May 11, 2016, 12:31:13 PM
Looking good.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 12, 2016, 11:33:16 PM
Going to do a little testing tmw night hopefully. Cage paint in the trailer in the rain Saturday while it's still cleanish is the plan.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/4377445b2eb7bf0232ee6a8061eb4f35.jpg)
Rewrote the full list with immediate musts, prerace musts, things, and B-list things.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160513/c04ba122d0e408d3d6cdec43427bc74a.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 13, 2016, 09:27:45 AM
we are getting pretty good at this.
i cant wait to build my next one.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 14, 2016, 11:53:36 AM
Should probably be done for Monson. When hot its an on/off switch ALL THE WAY at top of travel.
We put on at least 20 miles at Jeff’s. Zero issues other than clutch getting bad.
Best vid and one of the scarier things I’ve done
https://vimeo.com/166633394 (https://vimeo.com/166633394)
Immediately previous to that I hit it faster but straighter and at was GREAT
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: jacel86 on May 14, 2016, 01:52:28 PM
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Post by: dubt on May 14, 2016, 01:52:35 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 15, 2016, 09:45:22 AM
One or two nights of punch list if we ignore the clutch.
But we're not going to ignore the clutch, I'll have clutch and flywheel tonight. It felt better when not cooked from 20+ miles of race pace, but I'd like to swap it before the race, would suck to waste that long a trip. Sooner I do it, the sooner I know if the hydraulics are fine too.
With that and the front gears in my car it'll be a 4th or 5th long week in a row. Probably take a day or 2 off to work on things again.
How's shop space this week? I don't want to tie up things if you have work to do on your own shit. I'll beg a favor from Spencer or deal with things on the ground in my own garage if i need to - just squares or cubes the amount of cursing.
Post by: M4wdFab on May 15, 2016, 02:08:54 PM
bunch of shit blown up on my brolite, and my xj needs water pump at the least. tied up for now.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 15, 2016, 02:12:57 PM
Will check slave but I'm 99% sure I looked and the resi was not low.
Also got better again after it cooled off.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 16, 2016, 09:03:18 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 16, 2016, 10:09:18 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 16, 2016, 11:02:04 AM
if you need to bleed the master, it HAS to be done on the bench upside down. it CANT be done on the fire wall.
clutch slipping or clutch not disengaging? id try to give it a good bleed first if engagesment issues especially since it was low when i looked at it in the shop
Post by: mr.mindless on May 16, 2016, 11:14:38 AM
Got a bit better when cold. I know I slipped it a bunch from letting my foot hover not realizing how high in clutch travel it was operating.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 16, 2016, 11:33:02 AM
i might be looking at a set as a mud bog option. this weekend race was a race of time, stupid rain.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 16, 2016, 01:31:52 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 16, 2016, 01:54:36 PM
any more video from this weekend?
Post by: mr.mindless on May 16, 2016, 02:01:29 PM
8†probably be ok. These have a great profile on the 9â€s
Great braking too.
Jeffs is decent for testing. Needs more width for anything but test & tune but I’m as confident as I can be that mine is a runner before heading to MA.
10-20% more rebound in front and 100% more in back is what I’d change. Maybe 10-20% less compression in back but I’m not sure I’d change it. Otherwise shocks are great and it flies well and drives solid
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 16, 2016, 02:34:09 PM
did you look to see if the front bump stops were still present and happy?
Post by: mr.mindless on May 16, 2016, 02:49:58 PM
Take a look at the way the back bounces on landing in that video the instant before I catch the berm.
didn't double check front bumps
Post by: luvmyxj on May 16, 2016, 04:04:06 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 16, 2016, 04:08:19 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 17, 2016, 10:37:42 AM
welding on two new bolts to lower the vertical component in the rear will do what you just asked for - in the right direction less compression, less rebound
did you look to see if the front bump stops were still present and happy?
driver side looks perfect, passenger side still 2/3 attached.
Post by: M4wdFab on May 17, 2016, 10:47:09 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 17, 2016, 12:01:46 PM
only suspension thing I may do is swap out those front bump stops, not touching anything else unless I discover it falling off.
Post by: matt on May 17, 2016, 12:10:12 PM
looked like on millers and a few other cars, standard procedure was to take a cut off wheel and remove the two halves of the bottom leaf without unbolting anything
No worry about axle wrap?
Post by: M4wdFab on May 17, 2016, 12:59:33 PM
Post by: matt on May 18, 2016, 12:11:49 PM
Post by: luvmyxj on May 18, 2016, 12:29:30 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 18, 2016, 01:00:27 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 20, 2016, 08:12:34 AM
FYI- i for the life of me could not get the mast line out of the slave- its easy to get to, just would not pop out. the line is hard thick wall plastic 3/8 tube that swedge lock compression fittings work find on :)
Ditto. Hours wasted trying.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 20, 2016, 05:51:51 PM
Hopefully Spencer will share an epiphany when he arrives.
All goddamn day to load shit up on 571 to brig over, load drive and park a trailer, and R&R a trans and clutch.
I’d starve to death working book rate.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 20, 2016, 06:00:29 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 20, 2016, 06:01:02 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 20, 2016, 06:02:42 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 20, 2016, 06:13:17 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 21, 2016, 09:13:07 AM
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Pd1KDCAhTLc
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 23, 2016, 09:41:01 PM
RF bump stop vacated as expected. Front shocks are NOT up to the task with stock springs for my desired pace.
TJ lift springs should help droop, and that’ll help these shocks do better. Decker says he has some fox 2.0 s, waiting on a price and status.
Fancy bump stops need installing up front. Rear appears to never have touched the bump stops so not worrying about that.
Need to flatten some pinch seams in the front fenders, minor tire cuts.
Biggest task will be some sweet bumpers and some bed paint. Winning!
Second place out of three due to Eric’s flat.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on May 23, 2016, 10:13:46 PM
also have a lot of JK springs but not quiet the same lower attachment. FYI, 3/4x8" bolts are what holds the spring on through the beam- crap shoot if you can get it out with out cutting or replacing..... had to cut on the new ranger
Post by: M4wdFab on May 23, 2016, 11:05:58 PM
might get on the UTV bandwagon have a couple sets of 15's also
Post by: mr.mindless on May 24, 2016, 09:37:44 AM
the 15" wheel UTV tires are 27s as opposed to my 26s. I'd expect they have a slightly higher weight rating but I don't remember if that's actually true. There's a table on the maxxis site.
I don't feel like I need more ride height, I just need more droop so the landing has more distance to absorb. An inch spacer would help that too. If I'm keeping any of the metal inner fender I don't think I can do more than an inch of spacer, they rub at full crash as it is.
Decker's shocks are new-out-of-box 2.0x10 Bro front base tune. $300. I told him to bring them to line mountain. figure on slapping those in along with bump stops and a spring change after that race.
Post by: M4wdFab on May 24, 2016, 10:27:49 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 07, 2016, 09:43:17 AM
XATV-100 INTERFORCE 27X7.75-14 8 $55.00
(http://static.chaparral-racing.com/productimages/600/553-A505.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2016, 10:02:26 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 07, 2016, 11:30:32 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 07, 2016, 11:48:07 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 07, 2016, 11:51:34 AM
Post by: matt on June 07, 2016, 11:58:44 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2016, 12:01:18 PM
Post by: luvmyxj on June 07, 2016, 01:10:13 PM
Post by: rejeep on June 07, 2016, 01:38:43 PM
Post by: jacel86 on June 07, 2016, 02:18:33 PM
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2016, 02:21:12 PM
golf cart tires are not going to be DOT approved either, nor will they have weight ratings or be anything but a turf tire.
UTV applications are what have enough weight rating to work - though I do have a 24hr-to-flat level leak in my right front. haven't investigated beyond filling it twice waiting for it to get better. need some slime.
Post by: M on June 07, 2016, 02:50:22 PM
I always liked their Black Mamba...[IMxG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160607/2eb7c278d677e7bb0da29ac0be5fcc70.jpg[/imxg]
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I googled black mamba to see what it looks like mounted on something.... damn! this looks wicked!
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j198/bjsmith0098/samari325.jpg)
Post by: jacel86 on June 07, 2016, 02:54:04 PM
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2016, 02:54:40 PM
Post by: jacel86 on June 07, 2016, 06:03:30 PM
damn that front axle looks SMALL for those tiresAbsolutely nothing like 37's on a d44 ;-)
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2016, 07:08:35 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160607/380930a58e3cb4446be0ea5f609e386c.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on June 07, 2016, 10:46:41 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2016, 11:06:20 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M on June 08, 2016, 10:51:34 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 10, 2016, 10:52:06 AM
I have a bunch of tire shit to do, and even more once the new KMCs show up, might as well get this tire swapped over too.
Post by: M4wdFab on June 10, 2016, 11:44:44 AM
i bought 5 more but one has egged lug wholes
Post by: mr.mindless on June 10, 2016, 12:20:53 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 10, 2016, 12:37:13 PM
http://buffalo.craigslist.org/wto/5582277474.html
Post by: mr.mindless on June 10, 2016, 04:46:51 PM
score!
Post by: mr.mindless on June 11, 2016, 02:53:14 PM
Took a LOT to break down the back beads. Couldn’t dismount solo on the tire machine. Too heavy a tire.
Heading back to the shop now to get the InnerAirLocks put in the good tires and bring all the crap home.
Anyone need 14†rollers? One pair and 2 each oddballs. Planning to loose them instantly if no one needs them.
I think one of the matching pair was tubed :rolleyes:
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on June 11, 2016, 02:54:56 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on June 11, 2016, 02:55:33 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on June 11, 2016, 03:08:06 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 08, 2016, 02:44:13 PM
All shock bushings completely shit. Already replaced rear upper bushings with nuts.
Front mounts are set up ~1†too short for fox shocks. Fuck. Length is 16.1â€, I have been full bump at 15 +/- 1/8
EDIT: I’m dumb. I have about an inch to spare on bump and will have room for almost 4†more droop if I ever get softer longer springs on there. I knew I was mathing something wrong.
Radiator mount al-al tig is cracked on one side. So much for using the sweet easy aluminum ears forever.
Also need to plate a radius arm.
Hoping to leave around 5 tomorrow evening and bolt in shocks upon arrival.
I’d like to get rear wheel wells for saturday’s mud but odds on that have gone to zero.
I’m working on it today and tmw. Work keeps bugging me. 16 hours yesterday was apparently not quite enough.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on September 08, 2016, 02:44:56 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160908/123ebc9bd4fd27556d7a15ec1be5d921.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160908/02fdbda832efb57632683f841f9bdaa0.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on September 08, 2016, 02:55:54 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on September 12, 2016, 11:29:47 AM
back to our redline discussion, remember i have 4.10 gears also in my truck
Post by: mr.mindless on September 12, 2016, 11:41:31 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 12, 2016, 11:58:55 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 12, 2016, 05:23:56 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 12, 2016, 05:30:35 PM
thanks. lmk total
Post by: M4wdFab on September 12, 2016, 05:37:00 PM
so ill get the same setup for Will 10front 12 rear
i have 12 front 14" rear because i am difficult.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 12, 2016, 05:53:32 PM
10" probably fine for rear too, I think I'm seeing similar travel use in the rear shocks as mounted, but plenty of room for 12s and it'll give some flexibility for removing shackle reversal or other travel improvements.
you still have some TJ springs for me after tweaking yours? thinking I'll ignore bump stops for now and try to make more use of travel and droop to not bottom as much. I want to pull that stuff apart and do radius arms if they're thin after what yours did. next week projects. I a pair of 2" spacers for the front on the way.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 13, 2016, 12:06:39 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 13, 2016, 07:20:45 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 13, 2016, 07:53:45 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 13, 2016, 04:30:08 PM
wont know shipping until packed.
Kartech gives me a 10% discount calling to verify stock.
FOX is 25%, 2-3 week lead on 10", 4-6week lead on 12"
Post by: mr.mindless on September 13, 2016, 04:31:22 PM
at least springs are under $200/pr
Post by: M4wdFab on September 13, 2016, 04:51:55 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 13, 2016, 06:09:01 PM
10" @ 208 per shock
12" @ 220 per shock
valve spec is 30/90, what i have
shipping today, TBD
Post by: mr.mindless on September 13, 2016, 06:14:53 PM
Thank you.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on September 14, 2016, 04:08:35 PM
will let you know when they come in.
expected mid next week delivery.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 16, 2016, 11:12:22 AM
4" TJ front coils are also on the way.
2" wheel spacers arrived.
need manual steering box and water pump asap. my power steering is dead. have not checked fluid, but those pumps just suck!
already rec'd a shift light, since my rev limiter isn't noticeable. I'll set for like 500 below actual redline and hope it holds its setting. Might try hot gluing the back of it - knob is looser than I'd like.
Need a little shop time & material for some bumpers, and to install new springs and ball joints and fab some longer swaybar links.
Should I just do radius arms as PM since it seems that replacing springs is halfway there already?
Post by: M4wdFab on September 16, 2016, 11:18:15 AM
bushings and new bolts to. 8" x 3/4" if i recall correctly are needed.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 16, 2016, 11:31:19 AM
095 probably no good for bumpers anyway. there is a 1.625" 120 wall size commonly at KSD that would work also if you got some.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 19, 2016, 01:39:33 PM
1Z9E51380371733548 UPS
Post by: mr.mindless on September 20, 2016, 01:50:46 PM
rest of parts arie'd and gathering for friday.
haven't seen my Summit order of steering goodies yet (wheel, disconnect, couplers, quickener) but that should be here today or tomorrow.
gotta get some tubing!
Post by: M4wdFab on September 20, 2016, 03:32:23 PM
shocks say delivered!
Post by: M4wdFab on September 21, 2016, 09:46:41 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 23, 2016, 09:27:43 AM
springs will be here Weds, I fucked up and didn't push the button late last week, I guess - fixed that wednesday night. Hopefully will have everything else taken care of this weekend and just need to button up the spring install late next week, we'll see how things go this weekend.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 23, 2016, 03:56:43 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 26, 2016, 09:34:36 AM
- springs out, radius arms 3/4 of the way out.
- 3 new radius arms prepped for 1/2" bolts. All gave me the same trouble drilling at the weld as the ones in the truck now did, I wonder if the arm might be hardened steel and the pin of the shock stud that goes through to be welded is closer to 7/16? That wouldn't make sense since the base of the stud doesn't fall off after drilling to 1/2" though. I had to open up the back side with a burr, could not drill. Need to sharpen half a dozen drill bits now...
- 2 radius arms are set for double shear and just need paint.
- restocked bolt bins
- did a minute of lathe work on a steering coupler and picked up shocks
- cut out more rotted rust from bottom of front clip. new qty of front body mounts: 0
needs:
- rewire everything from the stock ignition switch
- remove column, mounts; mount quickener, extend steering shaft, weld quick release
- rock sheild for radiator
- permanently wire and mount shift light
- install seat
- grab parts from Arie
- R&R steering box. my puller doesn't clear the box, I might just cut the casting to get clearance for the puller to grab the pitman arm unless someone has a better idea
- R steering pump
- change up rear shock mounts to 1/2" double shear & install shocks
planning to take WRF of this week off.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 26, 2016, 09:45:49 AM
flap wheel weld on back of stud, punch stud out. weld 7/16" (actually a tight 1/2" hole) washer on shock side, weld 1/2" top lock on back side. weld double shear bracket chopped from scrap box tube. 30 min or less to do the pair.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 26, 2016, 09:46:47 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 26, 2016, 10:13:33 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on September 26, 2016, 08:58:09 PM
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/manual-steering-97-ranger-72323.html#/topics/72323?_k=qjgisg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: mr.mindless on September 26, 2016, 09:09:04 PM
Sounds like cj may fit?
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158818
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: M4wdFab on September 27, 2016, 01:25:30 AM
Post by: rejeep on September 27, 2016, 07:27:35 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 27, 2016, 10:43:40 AM
hoping some of the Jeep junk you have laying around might be good, otherwise I'll just not spin the pump and run the power box for the moment and hopefully fix it for the 22nd.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 27, 2016, 11:04:25 AM
the only manual pitman arm from CJ stuff i had i think gif got and it end up on the hotrod project.
will need to see what it is on ford junk. CJ arms and drop arms def available still.
Post by: gif on September 27, 2016, 12:13:44 PM
that was also my plan.
the only manual pitman arm from CJ stuff i had i think gif got and it end up on the hotrod project.
will need to see what it is on ford junk. CJ arms and drop arms def available still.
i still have the cj box. I went with a reversed corvair steering box
Post by: mr.mindless on September 27, 2016, 08:07:24 PM
Also found my leak: PS bracket is almost touching the pressure and return lines leaving to top of the box. bad leak around one thats kinked just out of its fitting.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: mr.mindless on September 28, 2016, 10:51:41 PM
12†shocks out back are too long. Shackles are gonna get un-reversed. Probably will level it out with the new front springs.
Too much to do too little time as usual.
Friday can be a long day though - dropping Kim off at the airport for a 0630 flight.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: M4wdFab on September 29, 2016, 12:10:27 AM
hang truck in rear by frame
attach shocks to lower mount.
fully extend shock minus 1.5"
weld bolt to cage where eye lines up
done
Post by: mr.mindless on September 29, 2016, 09:57:17 AM
I think I got a 4†lift from these that I didn’t need or want
I guess I’ll align to max camber and run it...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160929/e68cd4c2ed3d6c177e886bdef0c5e77d.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Wingman on September 29, 2016, 10:01:30 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 29, 2016, 10:04:40 AM
cut a coil or two off the top?
Post by: Callelle on September 29, 2016, 12:48:15 PM
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Post by: jaysenodell on September 29, 2016, 01:28:38 PM
Want me to just sit on the hood for a whileNow that's funny.
Needed that laugh. Thanks.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 29, 2016, 09:19:22 PM
Humbug.
Other than bumpers and steering things are looking good. I guess I’ll have to throw the power box back on no matter what to get over to bumper fab.
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Post by: rejeep on September 29, 2016, 09:51:27 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 29, 2016, 09:55:35 PM
All power boxes checked (yj cj zj and ranger) are just shy of 1.25†od on the shaft at the top of the arm. What I’m after is ~1.1†there.
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Post by: rejeep on September 29, 2016, 10:04:51 PM
Post by: gif on September 29, 2016, 11:20:30 PM
Can’t find a pitman arm that will work. Not sure I can cobble hoses to a non broken state to loop them since the ps bracket crushed one. I guess I’ll make due if I don’t hear good news on a pitman arm measurement from gif.
Humbug.
Other than bumpers and steering things are looking good. I guess I’ll have to throw the power box back on no matter what to get over to bumper fab.
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(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l264/jeepgif/20160929_203126_zpssnv9l1sf.jpg) (http://s98.photobucket.com/user/jeepgif/media/20160929_203126_zpssnv9l1sf.jpg.html)
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l264/jeepgif/20160929_203151_zpsmtnxpimg.jpg) (http://s98.photobucket.com/user/jeepgif/media/20160929_203151_zpsmtnxpimg.jpg.html)
Post by: mr.mindless on September 30, 2016, 04:40:15 AM
If there's a pitman arm that goes with that it's got a chance of being right.
I'm up for the day and about to throw the power box back on so the truck is mobile, I'll keep an eye here in case I can run out and pick something up today.
Post by: gif on September 30, 2016, 07:53:12 AM
Post by: rejeep on September 30, 2016, 08:26:50 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 30, 2016, 10:23:13 AM
Power ranger arm 5†with medium taper
I poked a hole in the cj arm at 6†and made a medium taper. If this works I’ll run it. Might do minor plating since its a thinner arm.
Installing after a snack. Wish me luck
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160930/c49e823ea13f5dfa7a3f07fb3ccd5715.jpg)
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Post by: M4wdFab on September 30, 2016, 10:50:56 AM
Post by: wnyjpgy on September 30, 2016, 11:10:35 AM
I had previous pit man arm failure on my scrambler and decided I wanted to make a custom pitman arm.
I ended up using the steering box end of the pitman arm to retain the splined end and approximately 1"of the arm length to create a "key".
I drew up a new pitman arm (wider and the length I needed) and cut it out on my plasma at work using 1" think material, with the exact shape of the pitman arm I cut up "key", think hole or internal opening, and then tig welded it all together and reamed the drag link hole where I needed it.
The reason I created a key was to take the load off of the weld it's self.
I just wanted to throw it out there..
Post by: mr.mindless on September 30, 2016, 11:15:17 AM
Fully plan on ghetto fabbing an arm with these splines if needed.
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Post by: Wingman on September 30, 2016, 11:35:36 AM
Post by: rejeep on September 30, 2016, 11:37:10 AM
Post by: rejeep on September 30, 2016, 11:39:41 AM
I don't have here but listed as ford ranger pitman arm
Post by: mr.mindless on September 30, 2016, 11:55:02 AM
Here’s the input ujoint. Goodbye rag
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160930/6887201259e05ac7bbf4b3c244bf2156.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 30, 2016, 07:07:57 PM
Except for what I forgot...
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 01, 2016, 01:52:48 AM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161001/8cc63ff5dc6482594e9804229f7acf39.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161001/9c1ee36b060341def5a879b56e1c748b.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 02, 2016, 06:56:46 PM
Had to fix a rear shock mount fuckup on-site, many thanks to the Jokinens for the welder use.
Rolled it in practice and have some front clip straightening to do. Had to put a front coil back in place too. Might beef up the inner retaining ring though a 5/16 retainer bolt did hold through the final.
3rd place in the final after missing the heat race for repairs.
List for 10/22:
Alignment
- fancy camber bushings
- fresh tie rods & adjusters
Swap power box back in
- right input ujoint for steering shaft
- New pressure and return lines
Figure out why the motor moved far enough to crush the steering lines and fix it. Motor mounts?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161002/f2892487dce29897e97c628702d1df60.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161002/645058e0c0f482ab6246b288dcd8e9f8.jpg)
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Post by: etk300ex on October 03, 2016, 10:44:09 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 03, 2016, 02:45:03 PM
front swaybar didn't do shit, and may actually have harmed since the inside corner's spring rate helped push down the outside tire.
correct method to fix is to lower the beam pivot point. we can't do that.
not sure if going to max negative camber would help much. it's the additional droop/travel that caused the issue - but having that additional travel to soak up a landing is pretty invaluable. I don't know if anything could be done in shock tuning for more rebound valving as a handling bandaid that would worsen suspension performance overall.
I think I will go to max camber, maybe cut half or one coil off to get it sitting lower and have a hair less droop, and get now steering hardware in there to get toe right where it should be. Along with power steering to react to that more easily maybe it'll be better.
Post by: M4wdFab on October 03, 2016, 03:40:27 PM
if you watch the Main race i pushed that front right tire off the rim that ended my race in the same spot... my truck looks in control just digging hard with body level.
i think you have too much lateral traction with those tires in the rear, not letting the truck slide out in a controlled drift or what ever you fancy race drivers call it
Post by: mr.mindless on October 04, 2016, 01:30:50 PM
I also want more rear travel. this thing doesn't droop out for anything. Since we're stuck on stock main leaf, shackle, and locations, I think running a 2 leaf setup with a greater arch in the second leaf for similar ride height with less spring rate might do the trick? I'm already running 250psi in the shocks. I guess I could test nuking the swaybar, and loosening all the spring bolts from tight to just barely snug to let them rotate.
Post by: M4wdFab on October 04, 2016, 03:49:16 PM
i dont know what 30# means or how that correlates to a shim stack, there is 5-6 shims each in the tower on the compression and rebound sides of the one i took apart and rebuilt with a new shaft.
Post by: M4wdFab on October 04, 2016, 03:52:42 PM
I havent talked to Will yet about his feel for change with just new shocks by staying with ranger "leveling coils"
From the pics, it looks like he was jumping way better and didnt roll it.....
id fix Camber first, since you absolutely know that is wrong and thats def hurting you.
Post by: M4wdFab on October 04, 2016, 03:53:20 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 04, 2016, 04:44:16 PM
#30 compression and #90 rebound
I really doubt that - should be a lot more compression in there than rebound and higher number should mean more dampening.
Post by: M4wdFab on October 04, 2016, 05:48:10 PM
30 compression / 90 rebound is what they are set too (listed on Kartek and also what FOX race program quoted..)
http://www.kartek.com/parts/fox-racing-shocks-2-body-5-stroke-58-shaft-hose-remote-reservoir.html
o neat, just found this- now it makes sense how fox valve charts work.
http://www.ridefox.com/dl/offroad/FOX_OR_20_VALVING.pdf
Post by: M4wdFab on October 04, 2016, 05:53:52 PM
Not to say that is correct for a stadium style truck lol
Post by: mr.mindless on October 05, 2016, 12:12:57 PM
arie
full set of steering tie rods, ends, adjusters
power steering pressure & return lines
fancy front camber bushings
motor mounts?
troyer
steering ujoint for power box
pacific customs?
shock shim kit to drastically increase front compression
tbd
more-arched 2nd rear leaf
todo:
power steering
more front compression
more rear droop
lower front ride height; limit droop. would like 2-3" more up travel than stock and probably no more
rear bumper supports to kill hooking chances
paint on fresh steel
clean up wiring
- add brake light back
- reenable head lights
Post by: rejeep on October 05, 2016, 01:18:07 PM
shopping list:
arie
full set of steering tie rods, ends, adjusters
power steering pressure & return lines
fancy front camber bushings
motor mounts?
email will be best.. in an out of office for next little bit
Post by: mr.mindless on October 05, 2016, 01:49:16 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 08, 2016, 11:30:15 AM
Post by: carchameleon on October 08, 2016, 08:09:03 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 08, 2016, 08:13:26 PM
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Post by: carchameleon on October 08, 2016, 08:17:18 PM
I'm quite sure I want more arch than that. And I have to keep factory main leaf.agreed, you do
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haha
Post by: M4wdFab on October 08, 2016, 08:31:04 PM
maybe an ADD'ALeaf might do you right since those are generally poorly made to be lots of arch to pull a whole pack?
Post by: mr.mindless on October 08, 2016, 10:38:19 PM
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Post by: M4wdFab on October 10, 2016, 11:31:21 AM
looks like 4.5 sticks of tube left? thats ~150$ off the 470$ tab?
ill keep it all unless you want more. no matter to me.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 10, 2016, 12:36:49 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 04, 2016, 06:18:19 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 20, 2017, 10:27:19 PM
Reminded myself that it's a hydraulic throwout. No pivot issues or so forth.
Overheated fluid growing between master & slave if I was riding the clutch?
I have a really really bad habit of leaving my left foot on the pedal. Maybe I need a really strong return spring.
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 22, 2017, 11:38:16 AM
https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/comments/2gy8yc/clutch_overheats_on_97_ranger_ceases_shifting/
I already have pretty fresh fluid from when I did the clutch and the line was cut & spliced (IIRC).
I'm thinking I run it again and see what happens (while being prepared to be sad), and if it does the same thing again, fully replace the hydraulics and put in some high-zoot DOT 5 high temp full synthetic unicorn juice. Any other ideas?
should I try to drain and fill it ahead of time? I guess I'll see how brown the fluid in the reservoir is.
Post by: Wingman on May 22, 2017, 12:23:26 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 22, 2017, 12:58:52 PM
Just ordered some fancy 600Ëš DOT 4 Motul brake fluid. Hopefully that'll be a quick flush & swap.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 05:21:51 AM
Unloaded just now to let the rain wash it for me, and I've got almost no clutch. I can hold it with the brakes and it will idle with the clutch on the floor, but it's partially engaged. The starter won't turn over the engine without letting the truck move.
Any ideas other than just throwing a new master & hydraulic throw out at it?
I'm sure I could bleed it now and it'd last a race but this feels like a new ongoing issue that needs more than fluid changes. I just don't understand the failure at this point.
Master and slave are original to purchase. It got a clutch last year after what could have been the same issue - it was slipping during a race so I changed it.
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 04:20:39 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 04:25:00 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170604/d1c098cfa522b4660d11abf383c3b52c.jpg)
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Post by: M4wdFab on June 04, 2017, 09:47:05 PM
Mine is getting a chevy steering pump next. I already have a wilwood master for the clutch.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 10:27:52 PM
I'll probably have to bleed the master but I don't think I'm touching anything else on here before Broome.
Need a straight front clip and some spare tires, and probably a new driver bedside along with more flexible bed mounts.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 10:29:57 PM
Heat 1: https://youtu.be/WA5MC7OMEp0
Heat 2: https://youtu.be/-3KdlM_m3Nk
Post by: M4wdFab on June 04, 2017, 10:45:30 PM
moron.
sorry for the mud. was a good race.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 11:34:41 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 11:49:10 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 17, 2017, 12:42:29 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/322530998527
Just need to spend on a spare set of tires now.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 20, 2017, 08:26:20 PM
Going to try to fix master with a 1/16" npt 90 to reroute resi hose high & tight. Hopefully enough time to get a spare if that doesn't work out.
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 26, 2017, 01:24:57 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171026/aff8b38f44cb175ac8a0fa163e79c6d6.jpg)
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Post by: TrailTamer on October 26, 2017, 06:03:29 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 26, 2017, 06:06:33 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 26, 2017, 06:08:02 PM
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Post by: TrailTamer on October 26, 2017, 06:12:34 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on October 26, 2017, 11:32:58 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 12, 2017, 02:57:29 AM
8.8 procured today. Has fresh drum brakes and a mini spool. Just need to do maths and decide on gears to be happy running 3-4 instead of 1-2.
For sale: Yukon 4.88 and master install for a d30. Idk high or low, need to make sure all is present. It was dark and cold, deal good enough I didn’t go through the boxes.
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Post by: M4wdFab on November 12, 2017, 11:00:35 AM
also have a new 8.8 yukon instal kit sitting on shelf,
Post by: mr.mindless on November 12, 2017, 11:02:54 AM
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Post by: M4wdFab on November 12, 2017, 11:09:39 AM
can talk and look when we shoe brolites away this week, or are you doing the swap before winter?
the comando and some motors need to go back to arie this week too.
Post by: mr.mindless on November 12, 2017, 11:13:12 AM
Sounds good.
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Post by: mr.mindless on February 16, 2018, 04:18:03 PM
I think a new slave will fix the clutch issues. Gotta do that.
Want to support the radiator more better for durability in AOAA race. those are really the only known issues I can think of - aside from desire to put more compression in the front shocks.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 21, 2018, 02:38:19 PM
Exhaust hanger installed. Trans mount and radius arm crossmembers both ridiculously tweaked and replaced by dom. Trans was rotting out. Radius arm too tweaked to get the trans over it. Hopefully there’s enough engagement on the radius arms to last. Otherwise the brackets are replaceable.
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 31, 2018, 11:51:24 PM
Otherwise might be ready.
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 13, 2018, 12:35:43 AM
Destroyed newish o2 sensor after anger occurred. It didn’t want to come out.
Flywheel and flex plate have hot spots but zero wear. Clutch disc is just melted on both sides.
Here’s where the clutch smoke came out
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/ac07eeb3c7b7513bbfcec50777553c4e.heic)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/5307198863fb3ff0f512bbdd0ba6ffd8.heic)
Glazed disc
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/06b90382e9bbb492aeacfff5b39b3d38.heic)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/3ac0ca8ef80fb5d268823fcde5848141.heic)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/caae95f11cafe1c55aacad9e2e43e4d6.heic)
Flywheel and pressure plate look new aside from a couple warms spots. Fingers look fine. It’s an auto adjust clutch, I’ll reset that and just throw a new disc in it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/b3ccc8ea6b36377efafbaaf018fadf13.heic)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/eeace6c6e681d9723d7e8bc57000f647.heic)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/c19f1808c76efdf05bce509823d261f9.heic)
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 13, 2018, 12:37:42 AM
Part number
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/6fae339ef457b3b55d29de5ab56cd6a5.heic)
Driver ball joints have tiny click. I think i did passenger already. Front brakes are done.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/34809c7b144f336df45719cc575c5a79.heic)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180613/d9ed31566f99dac46ad2efa7182d4f65.heic)
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 18, 2018, 10:45:36 PM
Rotors are live hubs. Pain in the ass. Done after like 3-4 hr. I greased to bearings. Otherwise it woulda been 2. Still need to swap pads. I think I did a pad slap one already. They’re tick but inners are grooved to shit and not fully contacting.
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 20, 2018, 09:48:18 PM
Can’t find listing for replacement clip. Gonna see if safety wire will retain it. Uugh.
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 20, 2018, 10:14:38 PM
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-technovation-clutch-slave-cylinder-360016/19340232-P?searchTerm=Slave
I bet I left it half seated in the trans and it fell out or went flying wheel horsing the trans out or in. It really doesn’t fit over my new crossmember. Magnet sweep of shop didn’t find it.
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Post by: mr.mindless on August 12, 2018, 09:49:54 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180813/501e4c30373400cc6642e49a3a2d5541.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180813/869af43172674a6e83926aa3ebe0d788.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on August 26, 2018, 10:20:38 PM
Slammed the axle into the truck in 3-4 hours today. Stops, goes, loaded and ready for me to relearn how to drive it!
Grabbed a pair of bedsides for future efforts as well. Not sure if I’ll get those on in time for rolling w but might do!
Not final pattern, but the only picture I took
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/84ed240356774fa004d91c7cb82592d0.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 07, 2018, 12:09:09 AM
Only other option is bigger o ring. Static dims of what I have:
Id 0.91â€
Od 1.19â€
Thick 0.139â€
Actual OD of inner piece 1.188 - both dorman part and what I made. To the thou. Guess I shoulda oversized by .003-.005. Damnit.
Either Arie has in stock or I’m not racing. All other locals have nothing in stock. 3-4 day special order.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180907/22e82bc8829dfa10cae3d86dd8f5effd.jpg)
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Post by: M4wdFab on September 07, 2018, 07:21:57 AM
good effort but i had my doubts sorry!
Post by: M4wdFab on September 07, 2018, 08:00:27 AM
ford steel PN
tried calling corteese they aren't answering there service parts/phone yet.
Post by: rejeep on September 07, 2018, 08:47:47 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 07, 2018, 09:04:30 AM
Done
found one for mike?
Post by: mr.mindless on September 07, 2018, 09:05:38 AM
can you just cut both of the above pieces and hose clamp in a short 2" section of rad hose from your part to the part that has the right interface?
good effort but i had my doubts sorry!
experience and skepticism wins the day. I'm surprised it didn't work better than it did. I'll hang onto the part and probably try to find a thicker o ring in case I ever need ti again but I'll have one plus a spare this afternoon FROM THE BEST PARTS GUY AROUND!
Post by: mr.mindless on September 10, 2018, 09:59:48 AM
Camber bushings continue to twist on their own to max out camber.
Threw belt in second race. Still need to refill coolant. Handful to drive in the mud with no power steering, I was keeping pace with Dylan easily and it was anybody’s race until the belt went. If it weren’t for attrition I’d have been much further back. No issues and it didn’t throw it again. Must have taken a clod if mud between belt and pulley.
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 10, 2018, 02:23:55 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180910/9d5cad390b01cd709e0c495dbdc56493.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 17, 2018, 01:24:23 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 21, 2018, 10:33:29 PM
Forgot I bought that bead breaker. Wasted an hour. Dumbass.
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 24, 2018, 01:52:05 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 24, 2018, 10:31:50 PM
I’m out of stock 14†ranger wheels :(
Coolant was plumb full. Dunno what all the water on the floor was.
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Post by: M4wdFab on September 24, 2018, 11:02:59 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 12, 2018, 03:48:59 PM
Makes the lead route look not as bad if it could be found but I was seeing people asking $1/lb and up. This I just get to weld on. See what difference it makes...
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 25, 2019, 07:12:10 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on April 25, 2019, 08:20:46 PM
Alternators seem like they love to seize from lack of use.
I’ve learned that seized alternators usually can be revived and keep going for a bit longer via force it to turn again on the pulley nut.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 25, 2019, 08:28:41 PM
I think corrosion jacked the case. This broken side faces the block. Do see what almost looks like impact but that doesn’t make sense. Maybe an old drop? Appears to have been seriously cracked at least through the winter.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190426/d8438346e493d6f697852915cddfad72.jpg)
Post by: TrailTamer on April 25, 2019, 08:35:04 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 26, 2019, 11:26:14 AM
Can’t get cover all the way off, but this is right near the top as it shut down.
That’s a hard stop.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190426/2b2cf229ed43d46792003477cdacca5c.jpg)
Post by: M4wdFab on April 26, 2019, 11:35:59 AM
Post by: etk300ex on April 26, 2019, 11:39:42 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 26, 2019, 11:42:21 AM
Pretty sure these are interference too.
Not good enough for being alone on the track when it munches the engine and I have to get pushed off, then don’t have a winch to get it in the truck, 6 hours from home.
Would be a good acid test for Sarah
This. Is. Racing.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 26, 2019, 12:42:55 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190426/2b48dbde9222e6880768e036800bebfd.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on April 26, 2019, 01:04:08 PM
Puller just cleared radiator. Should pull off with a tap. It’s keyed and straight fit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190426/c8fce926b352f59673060100f3fbcad4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190426/ca03518ac9cf897facf5b237994085e1.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on April 26, 2019, 03:51:18 PM
Probably NOT interference BTW. Fully rotated cam with crank at or near its timing mark.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 26, 2019, 05:08:49 PM
Water pump and water neck were new late last year due to same issue. It’s probably that stupid plastic water neck to pump o ring seal. Humbug.
Post by: M4wdFab on April 26, 2019, 06:09:30 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 26, 2019, 07:08:01 PM
Tied down, hood closed, ready to rock. Ish.
Thanks to any-Way for the support! :)
Post by: mr.mindless on June 22, 2019, 07:28:01 PM
I don’t think I’ll straighten it here but I could. Just in case need of heat or welder that i don’t have here. No tire contact.
Took the wind out of the other driver :(
Shouldn’t have. But did. Might post a video clip later if I feel like pulling it. I definitely have it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190622/9a6f50ceaadd554ed9948d07eea5528b.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on June 23, 2019, 09:50:06 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2019, 07:38:44 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/9833474dd0dafac0ce047e892c0b146d.jpg)
Post by: TrailTamer on June 27, 2019, 10:46:39 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 18, 2019, 04:08:35 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190918/ac8542ce3a982ef58f7f204804f8c732.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190918/49f603c5f6d9cecfdd8201eb77953d36.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190918/a4e954f73eff2a89474c31a71236207d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190918/19c2bfb025b3999f2d56f4d733e4cad5.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on September 27, 2019, 04:05:08 PM
See if I can stick the 571 radiator in or not since I have a spare of that. If not it’ll be something skinny enough to go between the uprights. Or I park it for a parts truck and race Kim’s for 1500.
Or I give up since nobody else races them anymore
Post by: M4wdFab on September 27, 2019, 06:06:49 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 28, 2019, 10:46:54 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 28, 2019, 01:52:55 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 28, 2019, 03:04:24 PM
It’ll do another lap then sit all winter and I’ll read this later.
Power steering pump is leaking probably between pump and can
Driver axle seal is leaking
That battery thing
Radiator
If you don’t put antifreeze in it, it’s done. Been on tapwater most of the summer.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 28, 2019, 04:20:10 PM
PS pump was kilt in heat one. Pulley vacated. Did a lap or three without any PS and just couldn’t quite hang onto it in the hairpin once. Thought I could skip the tire but I hooked it instead, swung the truck right around the RF tire.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 28, 2019, 04:49:40 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 29, 2019, 06:28:46 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190929/8e97900bd0236b2e26598d300599f926.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190929/1ebaa2b4ce46bd77ca9b3c4703e40a0d.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on September 30, 2019, 06:58:35 PM
I ordered a replacement which _is_ a planetary setup. Supposed to be stronger and should be better than 3x if it's 3 planets (since they also support each other). I didn't look to see if Howe quoted torque rating, or torque load to failure.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 02, 2019, 05:38:35 PM
Interesting. And unfortunate on the length/offset
Post by: TrailTamer on October 02, 2019, 09:36:20 PM
What about swapping in a different steering box, like from a Crown Victoria for the faster ratio at 3 turns lock to lock.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 03, 2019, 11:41:32 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 29, 2019, 04:40:59 PM
I’m short on long 5/16 bolts.
Going to make a back plate for the pump and brace to one mounting bolt of the bracket.
Need to make a clamp to mount a resi, and that resi needs a pressure relief, and a drain port out the bottom to pump suction.
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Post by: mr.mindless on January 01, 2020, 09:47:34 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200102/457d196f17f7dccca7bd6dcd8a5400a8.jpg)
Jeep TC pump now.
Should try to seal up the bad parts of the radiator before I park it, that should have it at 100% (ignoring bed sides)
Post by: mr.mindless on January 14, 2020, 12:37:36 PM
power steering pressure hose might be fun. I think the fitting types listed on RockAuto aren't fully defined. So I've got Ranger PS box and Jeep PS pump.
Ford hose is .3125 inverted flare at the box to 16mm 'swivel o-ring'
Jeep hose is 16 & 18mm o-ring. I don't have a hose around.
I do happen to have a (garfed thread) Malibu hose. which is listed as 16 & 18mm o-ring.
And doesn't fit the Jeep PS box. I think the thread pitch is different.
I can clamp on to the factory Ford return to make that long enough to go into the resi, no problem. I probably need to get a conversion line or fitting for the pressure side but need to finger out the right fitting for the Jeep TC box.
Post by: mr.mindless on January 14, 2020, 02:25:47 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 15, 2020, 06:08:24 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 15, 2020, 06:09:48 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 15, 2020, 06:10:11 PM
And there’s a lost amazon driving in front of my house right now. Hahaha
Post by: mr.mindless on January 15, 2020, 06:30:30 PM
When your cheap braided lobe and AN fitting set comes with o-rings for each AN fitting, you know it’s quality.
Post by: mr.mindless on January 15, 2020, 11:29:21 PM
Hopefully the belt hanging off it is right.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 17, 2020, 01:08:41 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200717/a30460e83242ca7855232ef41617b692.jpg)
Did not achieve perfection. Pulley align must be slightly off, brand new belt walks 2 ribs at high rpm
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Post by: M4wdFab on July 17, 2020, 01:53:44 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 17, 2020, 04:58:36 PM
Need to take upper rad hose off to get good eye on things. Probably just need to pull the pulley off 0.25â€
Easy to pull off that upper rad hose since I failed at getting the rad damage to seal up. I’ll just throw some Barr’s Leaks in it if I get the steering good and it’ll be ready to run.
I cut, twisted, and flattened the 4 bad tubes after failing at soldering them a few times.
I need a tig. Probably could have touched the 5 bad spots and been done. Or blown some big, meaningful holes in it.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 17, 2020, 09:57:07 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/dbf3d0a17312b1f8aa9d23a35b7b2de6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/11045a3894aec32191dff0aca9218226.jpg)
That depth is exactly as thick as the mounting ears on the bracket.
If this ruins the pulley or shaft, I should be able to make an offset pattern face mounting plate. Otherwise just make an entire new mounting bracket. Needs to incorporate an idler pulley that mounts on a different plane, so that’s annoying.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 18, 2020, 05:53:39 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on July 18, 2020, 05:56:23 PM
Mounting terribleness will go away.
Post by: mr.mindless on December 19, 2020, 11:01:25 PM
Bottom is lower than old radiator was. Channel is about the right size with isolator padding and should hopefully protect from any from-the-bottom damage. May add a tie or three to the bumper for good measure on that front.
Going from two fans to one due to smaller radiator surface. I’m certain that’ll still be plenty adequate. I think they’re 12â€
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201220/907000d180e38826ea6f83256344ebce.jpg)
I still work like a heathen. Too much done on the floor. Still not putting things in sane places even with plenty of room. Not having “away†places yet to put things. Decades of habits from shit workspace to break. It’s embarrassing. How long will that take?!
I sure do love that portaband no matter what, though.
Post by: M4wdFab on December 19, 2020, 11:21:48 PM
its getting beat stored for so long with out care.
Post by: mr.mindless on December 20, 2020, 01:03:57 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 27, 2020, 10:05:44 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 16, 2021, 08:59:49 AM
Found out from Will that after pulling my cluster I would not be charging. Battery went dead after second heat. Got a push start and crossed the right two wires to fix that.
Great shakedown. I need to wire up a mud muncher hookup in this one, badly!
Post by: mr.mindless on May 30, 2021, 09:51:24 PM
I did forget to put that forgotten nut on. And to straighten my hood pin. So a sneeze more left to do.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 12, 2021, 12:59:35 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 12, 2021, 02:24:36 PM
I've never had fantastic results measuring an o ring and ordering blind. ever.
Post by: M4wdFab on June 12, 2021, 04:40:31 PM
yup i welded some cracked tubes on mine too.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 22, 2021, 11:19:41 PM
No drips from 2x o rings plus black RTV with 24hr cure time before coolant was added.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 26, 2021, 10:49:57 AM
Didn’t bring any.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 26, 2021, 01:37:47 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 27, 2021, 05:23:14 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210627/006c8cadd6bc60e953f800cb4b7cb8a3.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 28, 2021, 11:24:46 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 28, 2021, 11:44:21 AM
https://www.sierragear.com/differential-repair-help-topics/axle-shaft-length-bolt-circle-measurement/
Post by: mr.mindless on June 28, 2021, 12:26:15 PM
https://dutchmanaxles.com/images/sr-c-clip/SR-CC-Ford-Truck.pdf
I put it into Excel for filtering, and it seems to say that all 8.8 are 31 spline.
I think I'll find it's a 95-98 Explorer. I think the newer were slightly wider with the disk brakes.
Post by: M on June 28, 2021, 02:17:56 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 28, 2021, 04:24:49 PM
gear setup.
Post by: M4wdFab on June 28, 2021, 04:45:25 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 03, 2021, 10:06:09 PM
wouldnt it be easier just to find a junkyard ranger axle and swap the entire axle?
May end up looking for one to get parts from, though. 10" drum replacement backing plates aren't available, only 9". At $150 in the rock auto cart without the backing plate, and do have some pretty significant tip-of-the-axle housing damage to consider. The bearing is fine, and three of the 4 brake mounting bolts are fine, but the tip of the axle tube past the bearing got significantly torn up.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 03, 2021, 10:24:23 PM
I’ll have to see if I can repair the one I ripped off. It hadn’t been rotted out so maybe. I haven’t really looked at it.
Humbug.
Stupid move.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210704/52c2d5b6cf06e2e48aca3ff02f8fa7b8.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on July 08, 2021, 10:03:47 PM
this is the AN to steering box fitting https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPAS1E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the TC pump 90? to return fitting for a remote resi https://www.lsxconcepts.com/products/saginaw-type-ii-tc-series-90-degree-power-steering-return-fitting
and this is the shit -6 AN kit that I have a leaking fitting from that I can't actually recommend. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XXYBNWB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Post by: mr.mindless on July 21, 2021, 08:46:57 PM
Musta been real cheap shit. Was new out of box with the axle.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210722/6ae8d5c780624551df626b4ed4cd03c7.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on July 27, 2021, 07:22:18 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210727/ce05fff852c216b707440a5ffb350ff8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210727/4e834e7645f8da91908c665074ee4b9e.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on July 28, 2021, 12:00:44 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 31, 2021, 07:59:37 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 31, 2021, 08:00:22 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 31, 2021, 08:21:15 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 10, 2021, 02:49:54 PM
Shortened rad inlet and trimmed hose.
Redid ps pressure hose. Hopefully fixed?
Post by: mr.mindless on September 12, 2021, 12:03:20 PM
Also apparently under-spec’d my trans mount.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210912/60be48ddb0f63f366ef123748312c237.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on September 26, 2021, 10:45:45 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on October 13, 2021, 01:11:41 PM
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1119537&cc=1438302&pt=1672&jsn=538
20$ seal and hammer the backing plate might have been good enough for a bro!
Post by: mr.mindless on October 13, 2021, 03:59:15 PM
backing plate was ripped clean off, didn't have an option on that bit. still annoyed I had to actually build it and couldn't just spend $30 but it seemed to work out. more payoff on the plasma cutter and Ryan's stack of box covers from a decade ago
Post by: Ryan on October 13, 2021, 04:29:56 PM
Ryan's stack of box covers from a decade ago
I noticed that, Those pieces are older than my kids, hahaha
Post by: mr.mindless on December 29, 2021, 12:34:18 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2022, 08:55:55 PM
Need to fix intake, only runs at wide open throttle with all the air going around the MAF
Painters tape made it run enough to do a couple loops.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220904/c727602123ca04ba6effdb2b6a4f7377.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220904/aa9ee7abe009cc3f35ea9741c21f6026.jpg)
Not sure about building bed extensions. I’ll look at it in the rain and daylight tomorrow.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220904/d3d5e5a8cee759100e522ac3ef7431fd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220904/d733e58d314bf6066bd900c6d549b406.jpg)
Post by: Wingman on September 03, 2022, 09:47:09 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 03, 2022, 09:48:55 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 05, 2022, 05:53:22 PM
Also threw a couple zip screw in the air cleaner adaptor. It had been held with 2 bolts, one broke out so not it’s got 2 zip screws and a bolt.
Added 1-2qt of water to cooling system.
No apparent issues in beating a bit yesterday at smikes.
Need to bring 12 gal of e0 and make a quick mud muncher setup for it and set up my helmet for that. Should be ready to rock n roll.
Post by: mr.mindless on November 08, 2022, 12:00:03 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on November 08, 2022, 04:57:04 PM
FYI i have had super good luck just buying both OEM lines, and then using a swedgelock 3/8" compression union at the hard section of the high pressure hoses to made dissimilar kinds
im also close to pulling the trigger on a spendy hydro crimp that has all hose types / fuel, brake, hydro, AC from will. should have just done it 2 or 3 jobs ago.
Post by: mr.mindless on November 08, 2022, 05:31:12 PM
Keeping stock of proper ends and adaptors is scary expensive. but making right lines is priceless...
I noticed that whatever fancy pulley I'd had on there was gone, didn't note if pump was different too, used to used I wouldn't know. I _think_ I have one more on the shelf if backstock is needed.
Post by: M4wdFab on November 08, 2022, 05:37:15 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 12, 2022, 06:29:43 PM
Gonna try to clean the bead on that leaky tire for the 87tg time before I check the coolant and shove it in Joe for the winter.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221112/bf0cb1c21b8f55a4333348611e92c23a.jpg)
Post by: M4wdFab on November 12, 2022, 07:04:21 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 12, 2022, 11:13:38 PM
I should have noted what fittings I adapted so I could get new adaptors to jic and do exactly that.
Post by: mr.mindless on November 15, 2022, 10:05:56 PM
Should probably get fresh drive tires if there’s a full race season, ever…
Post by: mr.mindless on May 01, 2023, 09:40:33 AM
need to get that to scrap. the spare rear isn't terribly desirable but would get a truck operational again. drum brake 3.73 7.5"