571

[M4wdFab]

hmm.


i have only killed 1 ls alternator.  cheepies.

Matt runs the higher amp one, i dont. 

[mr.mindless]

I run the large case I think 130a

it gives me voltage after some run time and high revs, but not before. spraying things in it made no difference.

it is getting voltage from the ECU. makes no difference to tickle direct to the single pin. do have good continuity on charge wire through shutoff.

This alt was installed in July give or take. I changed one last year too. And right before Hammers, I have that one in a box marked "squeaks" somewhere as a trail spare.  Either the alt or the (also months-old) power steering pump is squeaking now too. I guess I'll find out when I change it.

humbug. Lost hours to diag because I couldn't believe it, but at least it's only 15-20m to change it.

[mr.mindless]

14-July 2017. lifetime warranty. carquest reman from advance. $136 well-spent dollars. Last minute, without a doubt.

[mr.mindless]

"limited lifetime warranty" means I have 90 days from today of exchange remaining. Not even the remainder of a 1 year from initial purchase.

awesome.

Or so they say in-store, anyway.

[mr.mindless]

i guess it evens out

Replacement parts are warranted for 90 days from the date of exchange or the remainder of the warranty period on the original part, whichever is longer.

What is Not Covered
...
Parts installed on vehicles used off-road or for racing purposes.

[rejeep]

umm hello...

[mr.mindless]

yeah I know. Last Minute happens. I don't have keys yet and they're open much later :-

[mr.mindless]

Ok, problem persists. Any foggy clues? Tickle wire was showing something like 9.5v when battery was at 10.5 last night. New alt doesn’t show 13.7 as soon as I start the car. That’s as far as I got on that. Baffled.

Didn’t open the big door to rev it up and see if it starts producing after som R’s and minutes. Haven’t load tested it. But it sits at 12.0 at idle and at 1500. Digital gauge dvm verified.

I’ll load test it tomorrow I guess. See if I need to dig further or if the ecm just prefers 12 to 13.7.


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[TrailTamer]

You may find this helpful

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/756990-chev-ad-244-alternator-wiring.html

[gif]

not sure if this what you have,  might be close

this is a link i have used,  i'm surprised its still active...

6 Pages    page 6 has the bench test

https://alternatorparts.com/cs130-sbpage1.html

[mr.mindless]

might be interesting to test with an idiot light, didn't know there were parallel paths to energize.

[mr.mindless]

Chased good grounds all over.

Bad shutoff switch. Secondary charge circuit is intermittent. F me! Would never have found it if it hadn’t made itself worse. I tested continuity on that circuit and measured actual ohms and it was good Monday.

At least it’s found. If only I’d not burned up the last new shutoff switch.


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[mr.mindless]

Second try worse than the first. Patch leaked same as first attempt but filler popped this time. Tire is junk, another  tube unit.



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[mr.mindless]

Correction: third try. I peeled out the second try before even testing. Had a giant internal bubble.


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[mr.mindless]

Engine swap or rebuild?

Cam, heads, bearings, rings and a dingleball hone? Seems like too much of a shortcut if putting money into it. Probably deserves .020 over and pistons. LS like to slap but it is an iron block. That’s 1500-2000 in parts and machining isn’t it?

Rebuild 4 bumpstops

Make it have 2 O2 sensors

Check injectors

Driveshafts

Rear link redo just like the front from last year

Freshen trans and fix spare trans. Behaves perfectly (would like to add compression braking in all gears) except for a leak leading to low fluid after sitting.

2 more 37” Toyos due to cost vs. replacing all with another tire


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