'02 TJ with i4 -- Mid Life Crisis

[gslarue]

I have aussies front and rear and have only broke one shaft, maybe due to the 3.07 gears or just careful driving but it works

[M4wdFab]

a slush box really helps the 30 also, the 5 speed is not so nice

[jaysenodell]

Well, I went to WP to have some fun since Rausch was out. Had a little more fun than I realized. New bruise in the rear driver corner (about 2" deep crunch and missing paint). I may also be in NEED of a new tie rod. How straight is it supposed to be? I have about a 3/4" upward bow with the high point about 6" to the left of the diff (pass side; big rust spot in the attached pic). Still drives straight and turns fine. It doesn't show the bend well in the photos, but it is there.


Mike, can you explain the "slush box" and the problem with the 5?

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[dubt]

if it still drives straight your ok.....

[mr.mindless]

Nice thing about tj steering is that if you bend it enough to matter your steering wheel won't be centered anymore.

Slushbox == automatic trans. Much gentler than a 5sp (stick) thanks to constant slippage.


Tapatalking in traffic

[jaysenodell]

Anyone have a secret to getting tree bark off the paint without removing the paint? I got in an argument with a tree and want to keep as much of the pain as I can.


After the fun at WP and spending a little time attempting to think, I'm still thinking that I need to focus on "get home" over "get on top". That means I need to focus on mitigating breakage. Considering that I have a slightly frowning tierod already, I think this needs to be my first priority.


Everyone seems concerned with the d30/35 axles. New is out of the question (buying a new jeep would be cheaper). I looked around and while I can find ford 8.8, d40/44/60, and a wad of Chevy axles I'm not sure what I'm looking at. But I did find a number of incomplete or "needs body" projects (cj5, cj, and tj) that had axle and other miscellaneous upgrades. None of them were roadworthy, but is there any reason I couldn't use them for parts? What should I be looking at when considering axles and part vehicles?


That out of the way, is the problem with the d30/35 just robustness? I've been told that a 4.88 gear is out due to how whimpy the d30/35 4.88 gear sets are. I feel that I either got lucky driving away from Rausch last time or conservative driving with spare shafts is all I need. I do understand that lockers change torque/force on the shafts as does tire size (I'll be sticking with 33s). If I decide to lock then I have to revisit the axle question. Am I understanding this problem correctly?


Onto lockers: WP this weekend was a blast for me and my friend. We both enjoyed the "chess match" we seemed to get into every time forward motion stopped. I drove out of every obstacle with nearly every stoppage being due to traction loss on both axles while at least one wheel was in firm contact with the ground. Taking a trick from Mr Wing(man), I'm leaning toward no lockers. I like the idea of Aussie, but is there a way to completely disengage them?


And based on the number of times I whacked soft mud, I get the need for skids/diff cover.


So this makes my list:
1. Beef up steering
2. Figure out gear/axle/locker delima
3. PROTECT THE JEEP FROM THE DRIVER a.k.a. skids and covers
4. Seats

[mr.mindless]

Onto lockers: WP this weekend was a blast for me and my friend. We both enjoyed the "chess match" we seemed to get into every time forward motion stopped. I drove out of every obstacle with nearly every stoppage being due to traction loss on both axles while at least one wheel was in firm contact with the ground. Taking a trick from Mr Wing(man), I'm leaning toward no lockers. I like the idea of Aussie, but is there a way to completely disengage them?

Automatic lockers such as the Aussie are NOT selectable. You can't disengage them.

the D35 is junk. Spend $0 on it, they are all wasted dollars.

[cracker]

The main issue with the D35 is the c-clip design and that once the axle breaks it allows the tire/brake vacate the vehicle... just look here for examples:
http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/

[Harrison]

Everyone seems concerned with the d30/35 axles. New is out of the question (buying a new jeep would be cheaper). I looked around and while I can find ford 8.8, d40/44/60, and a wad of Chevy axles I'm not sure what I'm looking at. But I did find a number of incomplete or "needs body" projects (cj5, cj, and tj) that had axle and other miscellaneous upgrades. None of them were roadworthy, but is there any reason I couldn't use them for parts? What should I be looking at when considering axles and part vehicles?

Ford 8.8s found in 90s Explorers can be had for $200 or less, weld-on bracket kits that adapt them to your suspension are another $250 or so. There are a couple miscelaneous other things that are needed to make them work, there are a couple ways to get the e-brake to work. There is endless information on this swap... with good reason. They are plentiful, the right width, bolt pattern, aren't huge or overly heavy, and PLENTY strong. They are even available with 4.10 gears to match your current ratio if you didn't want to spend money doing both ends yet.

You might be able to find a factory TJ D44, but they usually run $500 or so in ready to run condition it seems.

There is no easy or cheap answer for the front axle. Run chromo shafts and risk breaking the gearset, or carry spare shafts. I don't see you having a huge issue with that, even locked, on 33s with a 4 banger though.

Going from lunchbox to selectable locker usually triples or quadruples the price. Your call on whether the extra cost is worth it. Driving with an Aussie front/welded 8.8 rear did not bother me at all in any weather condition, but I had a longer wheelbase and automatic.

[M4wdFab]

the 8.8 swap with artec truss in to Joes TJ i just did was awesome.   only way id recommend if sticking with stock ish suspention type

[jaysenodell]

Explorers are a dime a dozen around here. That really does make it a bit easier to consider.

Assuming I find the 8.8 with 4.10, what damage will installation do to my wallet?

[M4wdFab]

depends on how much of the run around you want to do. 

we would have to spec full brakes and lines for the axle- id assume youd want new parts in it.
a drive shaft flange adaprtor
Artec truss kit
6hrs install labor, 2 hrs welding labor (these things are serous)

[wnyjpgy]

I don't think you would be interested but I'll throw in out there.

I have 2 sets of wagoneer axles now, which are Dana 44's and the front is driverside drop, I also have a set of 15" steel wheels (6 lug).

The alxes need nothing other than regeared for your tire size, and the rear already has an aftermarket lock right locker.

The front has new U-joints, and everything is tight, rotors are good, and calipers would go with it (It's still street driven), steering included.

I would take $500 for both axles, steering, and the wheels.

[jaysenodell]

(these things are serous)

I know. That's why I'm going to have someone else do it. I figure something like replacing a brake line, diff covers, and other "it won't kill you too bad" is my level right now. Once we start talking welding and things that keep you alive... I'm out.


Based on a quick think through on your short list, I can do brakes (done them in the past).
Based on what I've seen on the ds adaptor that shouldn't be to hard to do, but you'd want to make sure I'm not about to kill myself (although the mrs might thank you if that was the end result!).


I think the rest is all you.

[jaysenodell]

I don't think you would be interested but I'll throw in out there.

I would be interested.


I'm assuming the 6 lug are needed for the d44 (that's what I was seeing in my looking around). That would leave me with 4 sets of 15" 5 lug wheels and two axles to sell off. That might actually pay part of the new habit I seem to be forming.


How are they geared now?
Sounds like the rear needs full brakes. Right?


From what I can tell I'm going to be into M4 for a bit of time either way. If I can get both axles instead of one...