TurnedUp

[Wingman]

No site in particular, just Googled some tire reviews including PBB.  They are all subjective opinions anyway.  But all the pics were of the recently changed process where they vulcanize(?) the whole tire, not just the tread.  Too risky for the family 'burb/wagon.

[jacel86]

The whole tire has to go through the process, they're probably just doing a full bead to bead retread where they put a light buff on the sidewall, add some virgin rubber and mold in their own sidewall pattern/name. Thats how the company green diamond did their car snow tires. Shouldn't affect reliability unless their quality control has become sub-par, or they changed rubber/cushion/glue brands.

[Harrison]

Did a brake overhaul last weekend. Drums turned, new shoes, new calipers, new front hoses. Wheel cylinders, pads and rotors are a year old.

Bled, and bled, and bled. Cannot get pedal to come up hard and stomping the pedal at speed results in a quick chirp of the front tires as the pedal goes the floor. Feels spongy. Assumed master cylinder, got a new one. Bled, and bled, and bled. No difference. According to part numbers, I bought 8800gvw master and calipers and my truck says 8800gvw inside the door. Drums are adjusted correctly.

If I clamp the hoses with vice grips right before they go into the calipers and turn the truck on and hit the pedal, it comes up nice and firm like it should. Based on this, seems to me that one or both calipers are causing the issue... And not the hoses or master cylinder or anything else. But how? There is no leak I can see anywhere. I can watch the caliper move on the sliders and they can easily be moved by hand in and out when taken off the knuckle.

I am just flat out of ideas. Should I just go try another pair of calipers? I'd really like to understand what the problem is here...

[mr.mindless]

Push the little button(a) on the crossover valve and on the abs pump if equipped


Tapatalking in traffic

[Wingman]

I had an issue with the Rubicon where the brake light wouldn't go off due to shuttle valve movement.  Never had the chance to see if it affected actual braking.  Also, don't know if this applies to your situation...

http://www.fingerlakes4x4.org/modules/smf/index.php?topic=3272.0

[Harrison]

Push the little button(a) on the crossover valve and on the abs pump if equipped


Tapatalking in traffic

Has rear abs... What little button?

[mr.mindless]

The only little button that's there. Probably between the brake lines.


Tapatalking in traffic

[Harrison]

Bypassed rear abs. Nothing. Put old calipers back on. Nothing.

Ready to burn it.

[TrailTamer]

Dumb question, the bleeder is on the top side?

How are you bleeding it?

[Harrison]

Yes, calipers are on the correct side.

Have tried a few techniques, none of which have gotten any air out of the system, only a strong stream of clear fluid.

Helper one pump and hold, momentarily loosen bleeder, repeat.
Helped 3 pump and hold, same as above
Attach clear hose to bleeder and other end in fluid bottle. Pump fluid continuously through.
Gravity bleed

[TrailTamer]

Did you bench bled the new master cylinder?

Try tapping on the caliper or so to make the bubbles to move up top to be bled out

[Harrison]

Yes and did that

[Harrison]

If I clamp the hoses with vice grips right before they go into the calipers and turn the truck on and hit the pedal, it comes up nice and firm like it should.

I keep coming back to this. What could be wrong with the calipers?!

[cracker]

Are you sure they are correct maybe they were boxed wrong

[mr.mindless]

A caliper is a caliper. There isn't a part number for one with trapped air....

So to be clear, with everything installed as usual, you have a soft pedal. If you clamp off the flex lines to both rear calipers, you have a hard pedal?

Can you pump it up? What if you pull the calipers, and install a C clamp on the piston, all the way in… Does it have a hard pedal then?


Tapatalking in traffic