TurnedUp

[M4wdFab]

maybe look for a disk rear axle also

[Harrison]

Noticeable increase in braking performance with the Ford stuff, Mike? Lockouts would be nice, but my unit bearings are fine right now.

Disc swap the rear? Easy and simple, but no e-brake. Read about swapping wheel cylinders for GM 14b ones, people rave about it. Cheap, meh.

I know my drums are out of adjustment, might start there. Not sure how I feel about towing with the 37s as things are right now.

[TrailTamer]

I didn't feel any immediate improvement on mine. I think mostly because my stock dodge stuff was in good shape and had good pads (ceramic). The ford stuff on my truck right now uses a wearever gold pads (semi metallic).

I did the math and found that dodge caliper's piston is bigger than ford's dual pistons. However I like ford's bolt-on calipers way better and it use 13" rotors.

DO NOT PUT GM WHEEL CYLINDER IN YOUR DODGE 2500! I regret doing it! Stick with stock dodge 2500's 15/16" bore, you may can get away using dodge 3500's 1-1/16" bore. The GM ones are 1-3/16". Huge jump over the stock 15/16" ones your truck have right now.

[mr.mindless]

I noticed a big difference but I needed brakes anyway. Brett just did it and noticed much less difference than I did.

I'd do both. I never got to the GM wheel cyl's.


Tapatalking in traffic

[KingtheZJ]

Brett had wicked problems with his brakes after the ford knuckle swap and GM wheel cylinders.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1414106-rear-brakes-lock-up-moderate-braking-severe-shaking.html

[TrailTamer]

I thought it was the front so I did the ford knuckle swap with 100% new brakes which did nothing to the problem, therefore that's when I got the clue that its from the rear.

[Harrison]

Duly noted on the GM wheel cylinders. I figured getting the drums in adjustment would probably make a bigger difference.

Being stick and therefore D80 rear, are 3500 wheel cylinders still larger than what I currently have?

Around town it seems "OK". Had to do a somewhat quick stop for construction cruising at 70 this morning, distance was not unreasonable but I was stomping the pedal and eyeing the shoulder until I finally did stop... was unnerving

[mr.mindless]

Have you gone through your brakes? Sounds like glazing symptoms to me.

Brett, I haven't read that thread yet but I do have a combo valve still from my truck. And a master. Only the hydroboost booster is gone. I had RWAL. Not sure if that'll help you but it sounds to me like you have brakes out of adjustment (too tight) and/or something holding residual pressure in the back system.

[TrailTamer]

I don't need more parts from you, at least for now haha. It's all fixed now. It was from the wheel cylinder too big so it overworked the rear end brakes and caused the drums to warp.

No glazing anywhere on shoes.

It stops perfectly now. I put in the stock 15/16" bore wheel cylinders and fixed the run out on the hub (which amplified the hopping from the wear pattern in the shoes & drums) then I replaced the shoes and drums.

GM wheel cylinders was way too much because they'll lock up the rear end without too much effort, basically made the front end to work less. It was dangerous when I need to make a panic stop because the rear end will be sliding all over the place.

I googled on this (to find out wtf going on on my truck) and found that its common for this to happen with the bigger wheel cylinders. Many said their fix was to back off the adjustment but that's not the right way to fix them so I put in the smaller wheel cylinders.

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[mr.mindless]

interesting, I did read the rest and I'm glad you got it solved.

I too have heard rave reviews on the GM "upgrade" - good to know that it's not for everyone and may in fact be harmful especially in a 2500.

[Harrison]

I may or may not throw rotors and pads at it in addition to adjusting the drums. I haven't touched the brakes since owning, the pads have plenty of meat. Maybe just needs fresh parts to replace old and "glazed."

[Harrison]

Are rotors an annoying press fit on the unit bearing? Or do they just come off when you hammer the studs out?

[mr.mindless]

should be loose once the studs are out

[Harrison]

I could never be a body man, that sucked. Will serve its purpose though, it would have been rubbing and unable to turn any further before. Pics make it look better than it really is. White spray bomb and done.

Was hoping to get both sides done in the time it took to finish one...

[etk300ex]

Pics make it look better than it really is.

 never heard that before hahaha