TurnedUp

[M4wdFab]

oil saturated rubber probably not helping

[TrailTamer]

Some guys used hair spray prior installation to stop the boot from coming off. Try it?

[etk300ex]

gator clamps are the shit!

[Harrison]

Ran my fuel tank down too low and clogged a filter. Need to get a fuel pressure gauge on this guy, took longer than it should have to diagnose that. Not that long, but still. Needs a gauge.

Do I need one of these or can I tap the banjo bolt on the clean side of the filter for 1/8 npt? I don't care if the reading is jumpy.

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BF-CBS010

Lost about 3/4" out of the coolant res on the last Rausch round trip.

Installed breather oil cap back on, oil leak has been reduced by 2/3.

Dan came over the other day and noticed oily goop around the #1 exhaust gasket. Said this is likely a sign of blowby. Need to do a compression test. Same cylinder that yields almost no difference when cracking the injector line, and same cylinder with issues in VA. We're both afraid 7hrs of fuel dumping on the return trip from VA may have done some damage.

Considering replacing the leaky, coolant eating, possibly damaged pistoned motor with something less used that lived a stockish life before me. Chad says not to give up until I try putting a headgasket in it. I guess that's just a weekend and a couple bucks anyway, but weekends aren't as cheap to me as they once were. Chad also suggested retorquing head bolts, something he said has worked for him in the past.

It still runs respectably right now. I scored a cheap rebuilt HX35 and got some silicone boots and a mechanical boost controller. Plan to install and keep running it, but starting to look down the road.

[mr.mindless]

All sounds hopeful & reasonable. Not sure about just throwing a HG at it. problems beyond a HG would likely be visibly apparent with a bore scope if you have access, or once the head is off.

I still have a complete mech gauge garbage picked from delphi. you can drill and tap the 14mm bolt that feeds into the p7100. the 12mm bolts aren't big enough to drill and tap 1/8" npt

the hammer will likely kill a gauge w/o a needle valve.

[TrailTamer]

I didn't need to get any fitting to put my fuel pressure gauge on. There's a 1/8" plug on top of the fuel filter (outlet) housing to remove then install the needle valve in there, done.

[Harrison]

40psi spikes are gonna wreck an 80psi gauge? Meh. Guess I'll do the needle valve. Bolt size explains why everyone seems to do the banjo on the pump.

HG issue is assumed from over-boosting, not anything else. Some quick shopping says finding a motor under $1k will be tough. Would be annoying to pull the head and find a motor not worth putting a head back on, then scrambling to find a deal on a motor.

[mr.mindless]

very annoying.

I'm quite certain the bleeder in the 12mm filter output banjo bolt is not 1/8" NPT. I think it's a 6mm nontapered thread.

[mr.mindless]

it's the speed & frequency of the spikes that's harmful not the pressure - it sees either two or six spikes per revolution or some combination thereof with the way the cam driven mech pump pumps and the 6 DVs fill and spill.

reportedly.

I bet an HD gauge would be fine, smike would probably know better whether gauges can handle 10+psi swings at 40psi peaks at 2500*6/second

[TrailTamer]

Here's mine. It's 1/8" npt needle valve with 1/8" tubing on the top.

(Yes I know there's some leak, it's from the plastic tubing)

[mr.mindless]

Looks like a similar aftermarket 12mm bolt to what I had to buy for my 6.7. That's not the stock bleeder bolt.


Tapatalking in traffic

[Harrison]

Fuel pressure gauge done. Friend had aftermarket tapped banjo, ordered snubber valve thingy. Sweet.

HX35 and silicone boots installed. Also installed ball and spring type boost controller in hopes of limiting boost to 35lbs. Not sure it's gonna work, but haven't spent enough time tuning it in to decide for sure. On a positive note, hills at 70 with a load seem to be no thing now.

Still leaks. Valve covers, oil drain (need to install valve from Mike this weekend) and tappet cover. First two are easy, tappet cover... Not so much. Installed a diaper to avoid ruining new driveway. Debating if I really feel like pulling everything off the driver's side of the engine to fix it. Either way, timing is next on the "upgrade" list. After that, delivery valves, injectors, and that's about it.

In the last 250 miles, I seem to have not lost much coolant. Hoping the last Rausch trip was a fluke and I can forget about that. Time will tell. For now, gonna continue to enjoy rowing gears and burning free fuel.

[mr.mindless]

Setting timing is good practice for when you want to pull the pump later to do the tappet cover gasket.


Tapatalking in traffic

[Harrison]

Pondering aux tank ideas. Thinking either normal transfer pump and fill truck that way or do something similar to Motorcycle's gravity feed but controlled with a ball valve, just open till gauge reads full and close. Gravity fill is more covert, but probably not very DOT kosher. Thoughts?

[TrailTamer]

I have Mindless's 105 gal L- shape aux tank and reused his plumbing to feed the stock tank. I leave the valve open all the time. Approximately 2,000 miles range is sweet