TFT The not white unibody

[Callelle]

Think I got my drag link / track bar sorted out. Drag link going to the high steer arm and I can get the new track bar mount to JUST fit on the spring perch bracket. Drag link cleared everything sitting on the bumpstops set for my 35s. I couldn't check the drag link because my 3/4" drill bit was dull and I couldn't get the hole drilled out to try it, but it looks like it'll clear. As a small bonus I should be able to use the original track bar mount for the hydro assist cylinder.

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[Callelle]

Things getting closer and closer. Trackbar bracket works at full bump set for 35s, need to move the bracket an inch to the driver's side to match the drag link length exactly, angles are damn near the same. Hoping to get this buttoned up next weekend so I can get it fully sitting on its own weight to check over things, full weld the rest of the brackets and get it pulled apart again for cleaning, paint, and gearing. I'm pretty confident I'll be able to make my goal of having this thing ready by the end of April.

 

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[M4wdFab]

putting an s bend for the diff and oil pan can help get your bump height down too once your happy with effective length and effective angles are happy. 

[Callelle]

Not really sure I'll need it, I have a bit over an inch of clearance for full bump on both sides with my stops set for running 35s. I already know I'm going to add more bump stop for the 37s so I'm thinking I can get by just using straight tube.

[M4wdFab]

seems like with that much bump and no oil pan issues the jeep will be stupid high compared to what i have seen usually...

[Callelle]

I haven't changed springs at all. I only have an a few inches of up travel from ride height, maybe 3 after bump stops have been adjusted. The majority of my articulation comes from droop rather than up travel. Maybe you're right and I'll have to change some things, I won't really know until I get it sitting on some rubber.

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[mr.mindless]

Put that bend in there if the track bar ends up being the limiting factor. Agreed that I've usually seen tires unable to come close to hitting body with that much oil pan clearance.

the more up you have, the better it'll ride. I'd expect to see 2" to fender at full stuff, leading to zero or minus a half at full twist? You may need to limit droop to keep shaft angles happy too, that can certainly be a thing on occasion depending on geometry.

[Callelle]

Just so it's clear, that picture is of it sitting on the bump stops, not ride height.

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[mr.mindless]

I noticed that. Seems sky high.

[Harrison]

We’ve discussed privately but my advice: ignore current springs, set axle CL to 4.5” of lift relative to body. If there is at least 3” of up travel before bumps, run it. If not, adjust bumps for 3” of up and adjust steering and trackbar for oil pan clearances accordingly.

I maintain that the high steer arm is not needed and making things closer to pan than they need to be. But, it’s all speculation until you do what I suggested above.

I ran 37s at 4.5” lift with 2-3” of up travel and did not have oil pan clearance issues even running a flat, non-drop Waggy arm and TB mount much closer to the body than yours.

[TrailTamer]

My track bar and drag link touch my oil pan at full stuff (I still need to extend my bump stops). It’s not like the oil pan is cast aluminum where they’ll shatters on impact and unlikely I will bottom out the front suspension on a regular basis, anyhow.

IMHO a true cross over steering with drag link as close to parallel to ground as possible at ride height is the way to go for on a street driven rig.

[M4wdFab]

i cant possibly begin to comprehend only 2-3" of up travel being acceptable on anything i would ever trail ride.  just sounds destructive, massively uncomfortable, or speed of snail to be tolerable.   

[mr.mindless]

5" up is new minimum acceptable, and air bumps in front. Once you have uptravel you really can't go back.

I did 2" up for a while and it was murder. I don't remember what I had later in dakota's life but that 2" was just absolutely awful.

[Harrison]

I’m about 2” up in the front and 1.5” in the rear. What I have to do to fit 39s, and that’s at 6” of lift. Maybe my springs are stiff enough to keep from bottoming all the time, maybe the Bilsteins help, maybe 6psi in the tires helps... but I don’t find it to be an issue. Occasionally if I hit something right it will bottom and I can feel it, but definitely not torturous. I was doing ~25mph in the small sand whoops at Sand Hollow with that setup. Hasn’t changed in years.

You will definitely be sky high if you want 5” of up in an XJ with 37s that actually gets flexed.

[Wingman]

2-3" is what most stock Jeeps have, no? Not racing. It'll be fine.