Author Topic: 1973 CJ6  (Read 93378 times)

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #300 on: February 26, 2014, 08:40:33 AM »
got the dash installed last night, more holes drilled and trans hump opened up a bit...
started measuring for the column hole... wasn’t sure enough on the angle to make the move.
Body is sitting on stock 5/8 pucks for now and everything is looking good...
manifolds and cross member height will be the deciding factor..



Manifolds came back from Jet hot... Will go home on the motor this week..


I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #301 on: February 26, 2014, 09:01:35 AM »
whats the fuzz on the hole edges?  slag?

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #302 on: February 26, 2014, 09:03:25 AM »
protective film from im assuming the water jet??  leaving it on till I do whatever with it..
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #303 on: February 26, 2014, 09:04:45 AM »
the CJ5 still in the shop?  does it have the factory column?  might bring my protractor and pocket protector ;D
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #304 on: February 26, 2014, 09:08:57 AM »
ya CJ is on the lift.  I shortened the column 3" and still need to fab a lower fire wall mount that got misplaced over the years of the build. 


rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #305 on: February 26, 2014, 09:21:22 AM »
angle should be the same at the firewall... thats what I need...
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #306 on: February 26, 2014, 09:35:41 AM »
take it with a grain, the column was shortened, re welded to the dash plate, and i didnt drill the hole in the firewall.... so its probably far from factory location, height, angle, and position lol

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #307 on: February 27, 2014, 10:08:52 AM »
Steering column hole cut... Might be on the money, might be a bit too low.. doesn’t seem to be a lot of meat for the firewall bracket to clamp on to..
Might need to make some adjustments..
Just ordered myself a Bergeson steering shaft to mock up... no final assembly as of yet... still need to decide on floor coating or covering...






ARP - great studs about .25" too great..
manifolds wont clear the head bolts blocking the ports on the head..  need to get some stock AMC head bolts in six locations to make room for the manifolds..
did a quick search on this and it seems it’s a known problem among the AMC guys... no real issue for me running close to stock compression..


I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

mr.mindless

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #308 on: February 27, 2014, 10:31:15 AM »
FFFFUUUUU.


that's a grr.
Quote from: etk300ex
oh lord!

matt

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #309 on: February 27, 2014, 12:07:23 PM »
Looking good.

Is the engine and tub bolted down?  The valve covers look close the firewall.

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #310 on: February 27, 2014, 03:01:43 PM »
engine is in place....
tub is still undecided and loose..

but yes, valve covers will be close..
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #311 on: March 03, 2014, 09:34:56 AM »
Ended up cutting a larger hold in the floor than I had originally anticipated..
the T18 is a HUGE transmission and I didn’t want to lower the crossmember, so I had to make room up above.
I’m still within the footprint of the stock tunnel cover, but it will need to be modified or a custom one made.

The recipe that worked for my trans mount was the "Z" bracket from a Scout II and a standard Jeep/Chevy transmission mount.
crossmember is in factory location, with factory bracing, no extra holes drilled..
I couldn’t use the Scout mounting pucks due to the fact that the D300 and oil pan is bigger than the stock D20.  This is the key reason why the hole in the floor got bigger.





Got the pedal bracket mocked up and holes for the hydraulic systems drilled.
going to have to shorten, bend, or both the pedal arms due to the slope of the tub floor. 
Both Masters fit nicely in the engine compartment.. have to bring the hood home to check clearances.




I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #312 on: March 03, 2014, 09:42:08 AM »
And i have the opposite problem, i have to bend down closer to the floor cause our petals are way too high!

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #313 on: March 06, 2014, 08:22:11 AM »
Smike, Im going to take some pictures of the pedals as they are and take some measurments... I would like to see what we can do here..

I found a new sandblaster...

Before



After



18 hr. turnaround time..
I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

jaysenodell

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #314 on: March 06, 2014, 08:30:17 AM »
Arie,


Can you post some info on places you use for things like powder coating, painting, sandblasting, etc? I'd like to do MLC right the first time and you are clearly getting top quality there and with MJ.
Mid Life Crisis in the making -- '02 TJ i4 manual, Aussie Locker magic pulling from the front