TurnedUp

[Nick]

First off don't even bother trying to fix ever leak on these things. It is probably power steering and mine leaks up at the firewall then drips on the steering shaft and runs down the shaft to about under the power steering pump so check everywhere. I just keep a couple quarts of fluid and add it when I need to because I am lazy

[Harrison]

Haha there is no way I'm trying to fix everything. I still plan to hose it down to figure out where it's coming from exactly.

[M4wdFab]

my leak would have ended the motor in hundreds of miles.  i would only notice when towing, and i have a gravel driveway so it doesnt matter at home.

[Harrison]

stupid useless aside from grossing 50k 4.10s.

As I've been driving this around, I can't understand how anyone thought this was a good idea



In fact, I almost suspect it would feel nuttier if it had 3.55s. Right now, it seems like it has no power until I get into 4th gear and lug it down, then the torque makes it pickup pretty good.

[Nick]

Put 10-15k lbs behind it and then try to get it moving going uphill then come back to why they put 410 in them. When my truck is empty I can take off in 3rd then shift to 5th and 6th no problem.

[mr.mindless]

I'm mildly concerned about that. I'll let you know, hopefully sometime soon.

[Harrison]

I'm mildly concerned about that. I'll let you know, hopefully sometime soon.

?

[mr.mindless]

about how getting some real weight moving with super shallow gears is going to be; Incomplete has 3.42s and I'm used to 4.10s.  I did some math and the ratios worked out to something like starting in 2nd and skip shifting 2/4/5o in 1-2-3.  it seemed like it was going to be okay, but let's face facts: I can't shift the damn thing to save myself just yet. Stupid synchros and clutch pedal and stuff.

[Harrison]

This hog is 100% de-plowed and de-blinged. Looks much better. Dipstick in and top of engine is staying clean!

Got to check out the front end when we changed the wheels. Spent my Sunday replacing 4 ball joints, 2 u joints, trackbar and pitman TRE. Much better now.

My local diesel tech support (diesel tech friend) came over to help and took it for a spin. He was pleased with how it ran, but was concerned about the coal rolling ability. We found that the fuel plate was removed and boost line missing. I also had him check out the play in the turbo... he advised me not to drive it until I replaced it, about 1/4" of play in/out. Fortunately, he has a good, low mileage one... and just acquired a Dodge 2500 gasser and is interested in my plow so we're gonna make a deal. In any event, his reccomendations on top of the turbo were:

Reconnect boost line to fuel pump
#10 fuel plate
Gauges before towing anything since what has been done to the motor is not 100% known

Fuel plates are apparently retardedly expensive, $75 on Ebay for the cheapest one I can find. If I had the stocker, I'd grind it down but it's MIA. Mike, you don't have one laying around do you?

[M4wdFab]

if you can do 4 ball joints on a cummins truck in one working day you are a certified yard mechanic.  that work is no joke! lol



good things to catch before big booms.  sounds like it will be a good truck with some dollars and time.  I bet chadly has a couple plates laying around.

[Harrison]

My friend and I tag teamed the ball joints and u joints on the bench with an impact and ball joint press, but I busted my ass alllll day. Getting the old stuff out was a bitch! We used his NAPA discount through work for the parts (Sorry Arie) and I figured I would just do it all while I was standing there getting good prices.

Also needs all brake hard lines and then I will feel OK about putting a load behind this thing.

I better get on top of this veg thing soon... this truck is turning into an investment! From what I could tell though, spending $5k on a truck wasn't going to get me anything much better, so dumping $700 into a $4300 truck is stomachable I suppose, especially to have the peace of mind.

[mr.mindless]

No fuel plate is fine, get the AFC functional and you'll be happy. Regulate lower fuel with your foot, not an issue in a manual trans truck. Lack of a fuel plate will not fuck the pump up regardless of what the Internet says.

Good catch on the turbo, blowing that would suck big time.

[M4wdFab]

one ton ball joints are no joke- took me two days in the gravel lol

[Harrison]

No fuel plate is fine, get the AFC functional and you'll be happy. Regulate lower fuel with your foot, not an issue in a manual trans truck. Lack of a fuel plate will not fuck the pump up regardless of what the Internet says.

Good catch on the turbo, blowing that would suck big time.

AFC does not need fuel plate to perform it's duty? I've been sticking to what I hear from experienced diesel people such as yourselves much more than the internet anyway!

[mr.mindless]

fuel plate is a max limit that's set in stone. It doesn't move and is there to stop the arm from moving forward past a certain point at a certain RPM and that's it.

the AFC is dynamic based on boost level. More air makes that move forward. set it too conservatively and you'll never build boost. gut it or set it too far forward and you'll smoke the shit out of the world and your right foot is all that's between you and melted puddles of aluminum that used to be your pistons.