Author Topic: Harry's Buggy  (Read 13635 times)

Harrison

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #45 on: January 26, 2020, 08:40:38 PM »
Visiting machinist tomorrow with the Dodge parts. Hoping I don’t get shutdown because of hardness.

Looks like split the trans from the engine, pop the front cover off and lift the carrier out. Likely get the spiders welded up this week while I’ve got some time.

Helped DJ get some stuff sandblasted today so I brought my 60s along.


mr.mindless

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Harry's Buggy
« Reply #46 on: January 26, 2020, 11:28:01 PM »
Given my intended application I’m closely watching this. I’ll either want a front disconnect or NOT weld my transaxle diff.

I could do selectable hubs on the front axle but doubt I could get them to luck/unlock successfully since they’d tend to bind all the time.
Quote from: etk300ex
oh lord!

Harrison

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #47 on: January 27, 2020, 08:00:28 AM »
If you don't weld the diff, would you just run it as is like an AWD t case?

I plan to swap the Yukon selectable hubs off my Jeep and put them on the front. Considering welding the front and putting some kind of auto locker in the rear. I will never not be in FWD on the trail so I'm not sure I see the need for a locker there.

mr.mindless

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #48 on: January 27, 2020, 08:58:15 AM »
Exactly. My wheelbase is super short so there’d be a ton of bind. I’m thinking auto lockers in both ends makes it solid 2 wheel drive. Be a bear to change later though and prevents hardcore wheeling options until tear down and significant change.

Theres a great limited slip options but wavetrack (iirc) is $700.
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oh lord!

Harrison

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #49 on: February 03, 2020, 10:29:42 AM »
Still waiting on tube........

Decided to tackle diff weld in the meantime. Unbolt from engine, unbolt front cover/bellhousing, carrier lifts right out. Sealed back up, mating back to engine tonight WITHOUT stupid triple square fasteners.





« Last Edit: February 03, 2020, 02:47:40 PM by Harrison »

M4wdFab

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #50 on: February 03, 2020, 06:13:22 PM »
is there a bearing cup in the table side up above diff? 

black magic! 

Harrison

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #51 on: February 03, 2020, 07:09:25 PM »
is there a bearing cup in the table side up above diff? 

black magic!

Correct! Pretty funky stuff.

M4wdFab

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #52 on: February 03, 2020, 07:15:31 PM »
neat!

Harrison

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #53 on: February 28, 2020, 09:16:49 PM »
Josh Greenleaf came over last weekend and got me off to a great start with the subframe laid out. I'm liking this tube thing!

Shooting to have drivetrain mounted tomorrow. Next up will be making the pass seat and rear driveline disconnect happily occupy the same space. Guess I should get some link parts coming.


M4wdFab

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #54 on: February 28, 2020, 09:54:49 PM »
looks great.  im excited to see this thing progress!

Harrison

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #55 on: February 29, 2020, 09:01:22 PM »
With front axle as far ahead as it is, shocks will need to be mounted right at the front of the hood. Adjusted fender bar design accordingly.

Smike is right so far - this is much easier and more fun than building around a rusty Cherokee.









« Last Edit: February 29, 2020, 09:05:48 PM by Harrison »

Harrison

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #56 on: March 07, 2020, 11:29:47 PM »
More help from Greenleaf Motorsports and Hackshack Racing (and Hannah) tonight.






Harrison

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #57 on: March 09, 2020, 02:06:40 PM »
Ordering link parts this week.

What is this group's thoughts on the calculator? General rules of thumb? Short driveshafts mean keeping pinion pointed up. Need to do some reading.

Airs vs coilovers? I think either could work well given my application.

3rd drivetrain mount finished.




M4wdFab

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #58 on: March 09, 2020, 02:54:51 PM »
my thoughts- i have no hard data or pirate threads to cite- just stuff i learn and go by:

id run 2" air shocks on this rig without question.  add 60-90 cc of oil right out of the box to them to keep the spring rate up and the lean / unloading down. 

keep your lower links right around your tire diameter +/- 2"

keep separation of links at axle housing 1/4 diameter of tire or larger. 

if you want more of a radius arm effect with the pinion always pointing to case yoke, lower separation at chassis side.

if you want the pinion to rise as the axle droops, make the upper link longer.   


i have never found any of the calculators to be use full.  usually you end up compromising somewhere and then throwing all the numbers you thought were great out the window.  tack up what fits and works, flex and then adjust.  if it ends up doing weird anti squat things, usually a simple adjustment can be a fix.  flat lower or even negative links at ride height always help you. 

mr.mindless

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Re: Harry's Buggy
« Reply #59 on: March 09, 2020, 03:38:00 PM »
you MIGHT want to try to care about roll center for sidehilling stability if you want this thing to crawl like a cone dodger. calculator is useful for that.

pinion angle change through travel is entirely related to antisquat. antisquat/antidive is the dynamic consequence of axle rotation through travel. You'll want relatively neutral AS. air shocks will stand right up or sink right down on application of power if you have far from neutral numbers.

The tendency for some rigs to really lean (I think Ryan's Atom Smasher did this? Something in our group did) or stand up when making tight turns while all 4 tires are locked together is a consequence of suspenios numbers too. If wheelbase changes a bunch due to a high angle roll center, when one side scribes a tighter circle, the push-pull on wheelbase on each side will try to steer the axles and force articulation. The shorter and steeper the links, the worse that'll be. When it gets into link angles with regard to inboard-outboard, that's when my mental model breaks and something that can graph it out helps.

The lighter the car is, the more suspension dynamics will push the chassis around so it might be worth thinking about those things.

otherwise, I echo every word smike said above. if you want light, 2.0 air shocks is the ticket, probably saves you near 200# in springs and such.
Quote from: etk300ex
oh lord!