Harry's Buggy

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i have used the calculator for years.  math doesn't lie.   
if nothing else use it to get in the ball park before wasting a bunch of time and materials.

This was my target when building my buggy.
I think it worked pretty good.

- Flat, short (30-40”) lowers
- 30-40% rear AS, adjustable +/- 15%
- (Taking into account the position buggy (up hill / down hill)
- Roll center within 3" of sprung CG
- front AD of 65%, adjustable +/- 10%
- slight over steer axis in front
- roll center height matching rear

i would be willing to post up my calculator numbers if you want.

[mr.mindless]

I plugged my measured numbers into a calc when I moved front links around to sanity check my changes. I probably have that saved and could share, too.

[Harrison]

Thanks guys, all super helpful.

Mike and Gif - if they’re easy to find, I wouldn’t mind taking a look at your numbers.

How are you guys estimating COG?

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Enjoy

[mr.mindless]

Wild assed guess on COG.

[Harrison]

Link parts are here. Talked with Mike Catrini (local guy, some association with Miller Motorsports). Decided to enlist his help with the suspension geometry. He needs to come visit though, and the current situation is putting a bit of a damper on that.

Ordered a 5 gallon Jaz vertical fuel cell and 3 core alum TJ radiator with built in shroud and 16" electric fan.

Underestimated tube usage, need a couple more sticks.

Drivetrain disconnect parts are fully machined and mounted, ready for welding. Still need to mount fork housing and adapt it for cable actuation. Seats are being raised about 2" over what they were before.

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looking good

[Harrison]

Driveline disconnect done.

Cutting brake master cyl comes Wednesday. Will go right next to disconnect lever. Fuel cell here, radiator comes Monday. Need more tube to get both mounted. Next up will be running coolant lines. Need to pull shifter and brake pedal assy from Jetta and work on mounting those too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tn-pY2wUVVk&feature=youtu.be

[dubt]

I like the disconect set up. 

[M4wdFab]

that collar seems like its half the size i would guess i would have made it.  is that like front axle parts from dodge or something?

i think you mentioned the parts but i forget

[Harrison]

that collar seems like its half the size i would guess i would have made it.  is that like front axle parts from dodge or something?

i think you mentioned the parts but i forget

Dodge Dana 60 CAD parts from a 2nd gen. It's all pretty beefy stuff, and is upstream of the axle gear reduction as opposed to downstream where it was designed to be. I think/hope 1310s will be my driveline fuse.

[M4wdFab]

ya i was trying to tell my self its made to see 3.55-4.10 x the load you have it placed into, still seems tiny but thats how spines work i guess. 

[TrailTamer]

Drivetrain disconnect parts are fully machined and mounted, ready for welding. Still need to mount fork housing and adapt it for cable actuation. Seats are being raised about 2" over what they were before.

neat! I am looking forward on how well this set up will work for you.

Sorry if I missed it but.. It's going to be unsupported at the long side's shaft? Relying on carrier bearings and shaft's pilot bearing to keep the two piece shafts aligned? I wonder how well, or pita it'll be to engage and disengage on trails.

[M4wdFab]

very cool.  that pic Brett quoted makes me more comfortable (not that i matter here, you look to have it 100% under control)


have you ever seen the compression saddle i made for the pillow block bearing i have in the rear of my car?  depending on where you sourced that bearing you will notice like a huge price window from china cast 20$ bearings to legit (maybe) USA 300$ bearings....    well i broke one some how, and added a compression U to the 2 mounting bolts to "cage in" the cast.  hopes were to make it stronger, and worst cast contain it to limp mode if complete failure again.   my entire shaft kerploded and vacated when the bearing failed. 


makes R and R no different and was good piece of mind.

in matts car we moved to the 4 bolt style flange and felt good about that one. 

[Harrison]

The rear splined shaft has a nub that rides in a bore on the front splined shaft, that’s what keeps them aligned and shifting OK. I think it’ll work well.

I have seen less beefy parts in transfercases I have abused, but as with a lot of things on this build... time will be the true test.

Bearing saddle - no, I have not seen that but I like the idea and will probably do that. This is a $20 eBay unit so I’m sure it’s nothing that great. I am assuming it’s just a 3/16 or 1/4 strap that form fits the bearing and catches the bolt holes. I am definitely keeping in mind ways to contain parts flying with the pass seat right over all that stuff.

Now that I think about it... flange bearing like the rear would have worked fine there and would have simplified mounting the CAD shifter housing... bah! Oh well.

Thanks for the compliments guys, means a lot from this crowd!