Author Topic: XJ Heep 3.0  (Read 3012 times)

CJ

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 716
  • Karma: +0/-2
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #30 on: September 04, 2016, 08:22:29 PM »
Wow. MEME worthy!!

Can I share?

TrailTamer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1139
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #31 on: September 04, 2016, 08:28:16 PM »
Go ahead. Just let me know where you share it haha.

M4wdFab

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 16741
  • Karma: +7/-20
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #32 on: September 04, 2016, 08:40:25 PM »
looks like you might need some of the frame rail i bought for the XJ pickup!

its only metal, just cut it back till you get something good enough to weld too!

TrailTamer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1139
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #33 on: October 07, 2016, 11:05:33 PM »
So, it has began

TrailTamer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1139
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #34 on: October 11, 2016, 11:45:41 AM »
I can't wait to finish the dirty part of cutting out bad sections and the prepping for new frame and floors. It didn't look that bad before I start but my needle scaler kept on find holes.

mr.mindless

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 10551
  • Karma: +1/-15
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #35 on: October 11, 2016, 11:48:24 AM »
hole > jeep

ouch!
lmk if you need more steel :)
Quote from: etk300ex
oh lord!

M4wdFab

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 16741
  • Karma: +7/-20
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #36 on: October 11, 2016, 12:08:53 PM »
i have a 5' peice and a 2' piece i can spare 2.5'x3.5" 11gage

cost was about 3$ per foot

TrailTamer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1139
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #37 on: October 13, 2016, 12:19:56 PM »
Thanks Smike, that's going to help a lot on to make the driver side frame solid again. It's weird on how passenger side is still solid. We think it's all from driver's salty and wet boots.

I just ordered the following and some notes;

1) rust-free used fuel injector rail with injectors
found them on eBay and they're coming from Florida. $23 shipped, yeah! Mine is pretty rotten and I absolutely don't want any fire so it's getting changed out
2) mech fan shroud
why it seem like all of them are always found broken?
3) water pump pipe to heater core hose
rusty and it broke when we was replacing the water pump...
4) valve cover gasket (typical....)
5) intake and exhaust manifold gasket
cheap and I get to pull them to weld up small cracks on exhaust manifold and give me room to do other work
6) fuel injector O-rings
7) power steering pressure and return hoses
they're rusty and I also want them changed due to fire hazard if they leaks.


Question; should I bother to put in a cooler for the power steering?

TrailTamer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1139
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #38 on: October 13, 2016, 12:28:33 PM »
I cut out brake lines (old original one and 'newer' but rusty) and pulled EVAP pipes and fuel line to work on driver side frame. I also drained and pulled the fuel tank, mostly because it's straps are bad anyway and to not start a fire from working on the jeep.

I was blown away on how the jeep still ran! The harness at the fuel pump was chewed through by mice and they're full of green corrosions! I'm glad that may be why my fuel gauge don't work. I will cut and splice together and rock out.

I am heavily considering to do the gas tank tuck while I am at it. Make the bottom of the tank flat to bottom of frames, to make it easy to make and install skid plate there. Move EVAP box up and next to the tank, then build frame and close up the tank and EVAP. I am not sure yet on where to move the gas filler to. Move up on the body? I think I prefer to keep it simple and just open the hatch to fill in the tank directly.

Wingman

  • Free Loader
  • Hero Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 3641
  • Karma: +2/-1
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #39 on: October 13, 2016, 01:22:02 PM »
Question; should I bother to put in a cooler for the power steering?

If you are going to wheel it, then yes.
Retired

TrailTamer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1139
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #40 on: October 13, 2016, 01:27:29 PM »
Since my XJ is manual, so my radiator have unused auto trans cooler. Any reason I shouldn't use it?

Wingman

  • Free Loader
  • Hero Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 3641
  • Karma: +2/-1
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #41 on: October 13, 2016, 02:14:42 PM »
You don't want to pre-heat your fluid to 190*. It'll generate enough heat of it's own.
Retired

TrailTamer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1139
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #42 on: October 13, 2016, 02:30:43 PM »
You don't want to pre-heat your fluid to 190*. It'll generate enough heat of it's own.

Trans cooler on the radiator is on the cool side so it's not heated to 190*.

Also liquid to liquid heat exchangers beat liquid to air heat exchanger all day long. And power steering fluid temperature get up to operating temp quickly. If it's enough to keep the auto trans cool, I don't see why it can't for a small hydraulic system.

TrailTamer

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1139
  • Karma: +0/-0
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #43 on: October 13, 2016, 02:32:23 PM »
I don't want you to think I refused your answer, I just shared my thoughts. More or less it's to save money unless someone have tube and fins cooler to donate to my build :)

M4wdFab

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 16741
  • Karma: +7/-20
Re: XJ Heep 3.0
« Reply #44 on: October 13, 2016, 04:19:57 PM »
by paper physics, internal coolers are more effective and simpler when sized for the application and duty.




however your internal cooler and stock radiator are not sized for aggressive off road duty and i would not recommend this type of cooling with current radiator cooling system. 

the comment about "cold" side is true but we all know XJs can barely keep up off road cooling with out improvements.  id slap a 40$ copper fin external cooler on over any other solution.