Post by: TrailTamer on August 16, 2016, 11:23:43 AM
Ran like shit. Ignition tune up, runs perfect now. Still need a good battery and driver seat mounting rebuilt. The seat is all over the place. :o
I'll like to build it to similar to my first XJ. Long arms lift kit, fab HD bumpers, rocker panels replaced with square tubing as rock sliders, 33x12.5 mudders and then some.
I'll focus on get it's mechanically to 100% then mods will start.
Post by: TrailTamer on August 16, 2016, 11:29:09 AM
Post by: GBR928 on August 17, 2016, 02:49:32 PM
Post by: GBR928 on August 17, 2016, 02:49:52 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on August 17, 2016, 03:05:05 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 17, 2016, 03:05:29 PM
Now you will have some wheels for Attica.
Yes! When's the next time we can wheel there??? ;D
Post by: TrailTamer on August 17, 2016, 03:05:49 PM
i have new or used SCRs i could sell if you are looking for some cheap 35s!
Texting ya
Post by: M4wdFab on August 17, 2016, 03:13:55 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 24, 2016, 12:43:18 PM
8)
Post by: Harrison on August 24, 2016, 03:24:12 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 24, 2016, 03:26:24 PM
With the wonky adjuster doodad on the upper link?
My XJ Heep 1.0 had the IRO long arms without that thing. I'll see how it works.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 24, 2016, 03:32:38 PM
Post by: Harrison on August 24, 2016, 03:46:46 PM
mine seems to have a coarse 1" thread thing on the uppers.
This is the IRO thingy, rather controversial on the interwebs
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160824/4493de799ac1bb2ca7261aa0ff20493a.jpg)
Post by: TrailTamer on August 24, 2016, 03:49:03 PM
mine seems to have a coarse 1" thread thing on the uppers.
This is the IRO thingy, rather controversial on the interwebs
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160824/4493de799ac1bb2ca7261aa0ff20493a.jpg)
I'll weld/mod it if it become problematic I guess.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 24, 2016, 03:52:49 PM
Post by: carchameleon on August 24, 2016, 04:14:57 PM
o god, WTF is that messthats what i was just thinking..
Post by: Wingman on August 24, 2016, 05:10:12 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 24, 2016, 05:15:55 PM
Not even sure of the theory behind that. Assume the upper link is fixed to the bracket and the bracket is allowed to slide on the axle-side bolt?
The silver thing seem like it's for to keep adjustment as the main part of the control arm is slotted (black color in the pic)
Post by: Wingman on August 24, 2016, 05:18:45 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on August 24, 2016, 05:20:08 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 24, 2016, 05:20:08 PM
Why even put a complicated thing on there? Why not delete one side upper altogether?
Bad idea. The passenger side "upper control arm" has already been "deleted" on this lift kit ;D
Post by: TrailTamer on August 24, 2016, 05:20:45 PM
i thought it was for pinnion angle adjustment, website says 7degrees adjustment available
It's mostly for to adjust caster.
Post by: Wingman on August 24, 2016, 05:21:32 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 24, 2016, 05:29:45 PM
So that upper arm should be fixed...
I think the same thing. I'm gonna put it on as-is and when confirmed the caster/pinion angle is correct then I'll weld the bracket thingy solid to the control arm but I'll know more once I have it in my hand. If it's not some thin sheet metal.
Post by: Callelle on August 24, 2016, 05:36:52 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 24, 2016, 05:42:30 PM
I never understood why this exists. Its no different than a normal adjustable upper arm. One of the reasons I raised an eyebrow when I read you ordered the IRO kit. ???
I had it on my first XJ (pictured in the first post in this thread) and it didn't have this thing (fixed). I was very happy with this lift kit so I got another one.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 24, 2016, 11:31:40 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on September 04, 2016, 05:59:03 PM
Post by: Wingman on September 04, 2016, 06:21:35 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 04, 2016, 07:28:47 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: CJ on September 04, 2016, 08:22:29 PM
Can I share?
Post by: TrailTamer on September 04, 2016, 08:28:16 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 04, 2016, 08:40:25 PM
its only metal, just cut it back till you get something good enough to weld too!
Post by: TrailTamer on October 07, 2016, 11:05:33 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on October 11, 2016, 11:45:41 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 11, 2016, 11:48:24 AM
ouch!
lmk if you need more steel :)
Post by: M4wdFab on October 11, 2016, 12:08:53 PM
cost was about 3$ per foot
Post by: TrailTamer on October 13, 2016, 12:19:56 PM
I just ordered the following and some notes;
1) rust-free used fuel injector rail with injectors
found them on eBay and they're coming from Florida. $23 shipped, yeah! Mine is pretty rotten and I absolutely don't want any fire so it's getting changed out
2) mech fan shroud
why it seem like all of them are always found broken?
3) water pump pipe to heater core hose
rusty and it broke when we was replacing the water pump...
4) valve cover gasket (typical....)
5) intake and exhaust manifold gasket
cheap and I get to pull them to weld up small cracks on exhaust manifold and give me room to do other work
6) fuel injector O-rings
7) power steering pressure and return hoses
they're rusty and I also want them changed due to fire hazard if they leaks.
Question; should I bother to put in a cooler for the power steering?
Post by: TrailTamer on October 13, 2016, 12:28:33 PM
I was blown away on how the jeep still ran! The harness at the fuel pump was chewed through by mice and they're full of green corrosions! I'm glad that may be why my fuel gauge don't work. I will cut and splice together and rock out.
I am heavily considering to do the gas tank tuck while I am at it. Make the bottom of the tank flat to bottom of frames, to make it easy to make and install skid plate there. Move EVAP box up and next to the tank, then build frame and close up the tank and EVAP. I am not sure yet on where to move the gas filler to. Move up on the body? I think I prefer to keep it simple and just open the hatch to fill in the tank directly.
Post by: Wingman on October 13, 2016, 01:22:02 PM
Question; should I bother to put in a cooler for the power steering?
If you are going to wheel it, then yes.
Post by: TrailTamer on October 13, 2016, 01:27:29 PM
Post by: Wingman on October 13, 2016, 02:14:42 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on October 13, 2016, 02:30:43 PM
You don't want to pre-heat your fluid to 190*. It'll generate enough heat of it's own.
Trans cooler on the radiator is on the cool side so it's not heated to 190*.
Also liquid to liquid heat exchangers beat liquid to air heat exchanger all day long. And power steering fluid temperature get up to operating temp quickly. If it's enough to keep the auto trans cool, I don't see why it can't for a small hydraulic system.
Post by: TrailTamer on October 13, 2016, 02:32:23 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on October 13, 2016, 04:19:57 PM
however your internal cooler and stock radiator are not sized for aggressive off road duty and i would not recommend this type of cooling with current radiator cooling system.
the comment about "cold" side is true but we all know XJs can barely keep up off road cooling with out improvements. id slap a 40$ copper fin external cooler on over any other solution.
Post by: M4wdFab on October 13, 2016, 04:21:09 PM
Post by: Harrison on October 13, 2016, 04:48:09 PM
My Jeep never gets over 210-215 on the trail, even under multiple WOT assaults on obstacles. Clean rad, fresh 50/50 coolant and fan running.
Post by: TrailTamer on October 13, 2016, 04:59:11 PM
I wired my stock e-fan to a switch and leave it running all the time on the trails. Little more complicated on OBDII Jeeps if you don't want a CEL light but there are lots of write ups over there.
My Jeep never gets over 210-215 on the trail, even under multiple WOT assaults on obstacles. Clean rad, fresh 50/50 coolant and fan running.
That's what I did on my '95 XJ I had. I also plan on to add hood louvers in the spring when it's warming up again.
Post by: TrailTamer on October 24, 2016, 09:51:53 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on October 24, 2016, 09:54:07 PM
Welded the crack on the exhaust manifold. It was just small crack so I figured I'll save it.
Also found one of freeze plug rusted through and leaking so they'll all get changed too.
Post by: TrailTamer on October 24, 2016, 09:55:15 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on October 31, 2016, 10:49:30 AM
Both axles pulled. Found out they're 3.07. I ASSumed they're 3.55, I'll run them for now.
To my surprise leaf spring bolts came right out! A lot of grunt to turn bolts. Driver side leaf spring out. Passenger side almost out when I called it a night last night.
Front and rear sections of frame prep (and more rust repair as needed) for frame stiffeners and shackle relocator brackets install.
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 08:09:38 PM
Post by: Harrison on November 29, 2016, 08:51:53 PM
$459 chromo kit from Dan
Gusset/replace LCA mounts, cheap/easy
$65 Solid cover
$250? Aussie
That covers all the bases without breaking the bank, and you could probably hoard stock shafts and see if you even have a problem. Anything more and I think you're getting solidly into turd polish territory.
Edit: and gears depending tire size...
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 08:56:35 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on November 29, 2016, 09:08:41 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 09:27:26 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 09:28:54 PM
Post by: Wingman on November 29, 2016, 09:29:34 PM
3.07s will be annoying with 35s.
Otherwise, what Harry and sMike said...
Post by: M4wdFab on November 29, 2016, 09:45:00 PM
spool id imagine would help the 297s but kind of annoying in a jeep.
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 09:52:31 PM
full locker like a spool?
spool id imagine would help the 297s but kind of annoying in a jeep.
I mean like a Detroit. Not the little locker that replace the spider gear
Post by: Harrison on November 29, 2016, 10:30:54 PM
Post by: Callelle on November 29, 2016, 10:35:08 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 11:12:16 PM
I have read many times that adding things like truss and full case locker helps reduce deflection and gears live longer... seems like splitting hairs on a D30 to me. If you have 3.07s, full case and Artec money would be much better spent regearing.
I've seen few D30s taco'd in front of me in Midwest. My thought was to make the D30 housing a good baseline then upgrade it's gears, shafts, locker, etc. later. It's hard to straighten a pretzeled housing haha
It's going to be a trail rig and I'm not going to be racing with some rice burners and it's 5 speed so I think 3.07 will be ok for now. Big pinion gear 8)
I was asking about locker thing because I don't want to pay things twice and work on it twice when I could've done it once and forget it.
As of now my axles' plan are;
stock shafts with new spicer joints with snap rings
Open front, weld rear
Inner C truss
Sleeve tubes
Ruff Stuff covers
Artec's lower control arm mounts
Later;
Chromo shafts. if I break them... I never broke any D30 shafts with my XJ Heep 1.0 on 34" pizza cutter Swampers
Lockers
Gears
Phase 2;
1 ton axles? 8)
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 11:13:44 PM
Having a bling D30 and 8.25, I wouldn't bother with a truss. Gears are about the furthest you should go if you plan on keeping stock axles for a while. I had 3.55s in mine and it was awful with 35s. Cruising at 70 on the 90 in second gets really old. I also wouldn't bother with a full case, aussies are plenty good enough.
2nd gear at 70mph? Lol
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 11:28:43 PM
That white dust on the floor is from bondo'd over crumbled area.
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 11:29:21 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 11:30:06 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 11:30:43 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2016, 11:31:51 PM
Post by: Harrison on November 30, 2016, 10:49:21 AM
Man that's a lot of tires! Almost worth the effort to go steal Spencer's tire machine for that!
Post by: M4wdFab on December 01, 2016, 01:26:28 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1984-2001-JEEP-CHEROKEE-XJ-DANA-30-FRONT-END-USA-4340-CHROMOLY-AXLE-KIT-NEW-/331143938319?hash=item4d19b7810f:g:kWUAAMXQbjxRDBK3&vxp=mtr
or get Dan at DMR for shafts
Cora for a locker
Post by: M4wdFab on December 01, 2016, 01:30:32 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 01, 2016, 02:28:21 PM
The link you provided is for low pinion D30. I have the high pinion.
How this one looks?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CHEROKEE-XJ-CHRYSLER-8-25-DANA-30-4-56-RING-AND-PINION-MASTER-GEAR-PKG-/331578304051?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20150519202348%2526meid%253Df643e7c7f3e54276a462f3d5818cab45%2526pid%253D100408%2526rk%253D1%2526rkt%253D25%2526mehot%253Dpp%2526sd%253D172403610326&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460
Post by: TrailTamer on December 15, 2016, 01:30:40 PM
Post by: Wingman on December 15, 2016, 01:40:23 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 15, 2016, 01:50:02 PM
The axle was in the shower for degreasing, metal prep treatment prior painting which was done in the dining room.
Post by: cracker on December 15, 2016, 02:09:43 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 16, 2016, 07:47:13 PM
Anyone actually broke a D30 stub shaft beside the yoke?
Post by: M4wdFab on December 16, 2016, 07:48:48 PM
in my CJ after chromo shafts- hubs then rings gears were the weak link
Post by: TrailTamer on December 16, 2016, 07:51:00 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 16, 2016, 07:58:33 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 16, 2016, 08:16:19 PM
yoke and u joint is the only failures i have ever seen on a 30.
in my CJ after chromo shafts- hubs then rings gears were the weak link
I want to say I concur. I don't recall see anyone broke axle shafts, only yoke/u-joints.
Post by: Harrison on December 16, 2016, 10:57:24 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 22, 2016, 01:16:47 PM
I wondered will anyone come help me to finish the build next week? I'll provide beers and food? Haha
Post by: TrailTamer on January 27, 2017, 10:33:09 AM
Rear section frame stiffeners half way welded on. I am so glad I opt'd to cut out entire floor! made it so easy to work on rear section of the jeep.
Plasma'd cut entire stock fuel filler door, tunnel, etc. to have it relocated to inside. My plan is to have it mounted in rear on driver side by the D-pillar.
Plasma'd out factory rear shackle brackets to install shackle relocate brackets
yesterday I took my ruff stuff covers with me to work. I counter sunk bolt holes to use flat head bolts. they came out really nice to have no bolt sticking out! although flat head bolts I got use 3/16" allen drive size so I am not sure what torque I will be able to crank it down at. I am anticipating to order Torx-Plus flat head bolts from McMaster-Carr. The one I found, 5/16-18 with IP40 drive size. I found a chart online claims the IP40 is rated to go as high as 60.5 ft-lb. I highly doubt the 3/16" allen wrench will achieve that torque value without stripping or breaking. I will find out soon...
https://www.mcmaster.com/#94414a588/=163eh5x
Post by: M4wdFab on January 27, 2017, 10:56:42 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 28, 2017, 12:16:07 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 28, 2017, 05:35:57 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 28, 2017, 09:06:26 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: TrailTamer on March 28, 2017, 01:36:15 PM
YGK003
Yukon gear package. HP30/8.25 4.56
YGLD30-4-27
Grizzly Locker D30 3.73+
YA W24110
Yukon D30 4340 axle shaft set with Spicer joints
I still need to decide what to do to lock the C8.25
Post by: Callelle on March 29, 2017, 08:58:09 AM
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Post by: TrailTamer on April 07, 2017, 10:56:53 AM
What's sheet metal minimum thickness I should go for? I am thinking to use what I already have; ~0.15" and I'll have back side braced so it won't cave-in as much. Upgrade skid plate material later if it become a problem?
Post by: TrailTamer on April 07, 2017, 10:18:52 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 07, 2017, 10:34:24 PM
that thing was a pain. all good we got it and got an acceptable pattern.
also reminded me, its really easier to set up gears when axle is in a jeep. i guess i need a fancy axle table sometime soon :)
Post by: TrailTamer on July 09, 2017, 08:45:43 PM
Post by: Wingman on July 09, 2017, 08:56:15 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 09, 2017, 09:32:56 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 10, 2017, 01:55:24 PM
this was some tube work i did on Wonder 1.0
(http://www.m4wdfabrications.com/s/cc_images/teaserbox_949220027.JPG?t=1473873643)
Post by: TrailTamer on July 10, 2017, 02:10:41 PM
i would just do a tuck and trim on the fenders like i have done on many
this was some tube work i did on Wonder 1.0
(http://www.m4wdfabrications.com/s/cc_images/teaserbox_949220027.JPG?t=1473873643)
I would but there are too much rust rot to do that, as you can see on passenger side rear fender. I am thinking to have tube/flat fenders made with tubes welded straight to sliders and bumpers.
I'll figure something out later in the build.
Post by: TrailTamer on July 11, 2017, 09:21:57 AM
good steering shaft stolen from Tom/Smike's old red XJ
installed steering box with new-ish bolts and hooked up the steering shaft. It's almost steerable!
I have the Chevy 1-ton steering kit from Ruff Stuff. I don't think the tie rod will clear the diff cover. I ordered the offset TRE from Ruff Stuff so I can complete the steering.
I'm debating on should I relocate the axle side track bar mount or leave it as is for now.
Post by: TrailTamer on July 11, 2017, 09:26:17 AM
Only one tiny ass bolt is this axle side upper control arm mount. M10 10.9 seem to be asking for trouble?
Post by: Wingman on July 11, 2017, 09:31:24 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 11, 2017, 09:38:03 AM
Easier to upgrade now but there are a lot of TJs and Cherokees on the trails with that stock bolt.
I figured, I'll look into it later since I have other stuff to do still. IRO's "Y" control arm have the cam for caster/pinion adjuster which I'll need to modify to accept larger bolt and put a different bushing with larger bolt hole.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 11, 2017, 09:38:51 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 11, 2017, 10:51:13 AM
with that said, i bet it sees a lot more load because of the stupid semi - triangulated 4link setup and a track bar
Post by: TrailTamer on July 13, 2017, 08:44:32 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 15, 2017, 07:39:11 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 15, 2017, 08:06:53 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: M4wdFab on July 15, 2017, 08:10:59 PM
looks good-
a piece of HDPE would be slick on the under sides of those supports to boat side it almost
Post by: TrailTamer on July 15, 2017, 09:19:13 PM
any proplems with the doors opening and closing with that much of the jeep gone?
looks good-
a piece of HDPE would be slick on the under sides of those supports to boat side it almost
Doors open and close fine but the b pillar is floppy. I'm going to reattach it all back to the rock sliders to make it solid again.
It's kinda boat side as I did cut into doors. I went high as I can without getting into door seals.
I was going to skin them with sheet metal from MikeMike. Not sure about ponying up on some HDPE sheets.
Also, I got replacement floor pans in the mail from Rockauto. I hope they'll save me a ton of time to put floors back in it.
Post by: TrailTamer on July 20, 2017, 10:23:51 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 21, 2017, 09:18:24 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 21, 2017, 09:20:44 AM
Looks great!
Thanks. The "LET'S DO THIS" orange bucket is directly under the rock slider. I'm really pleased on how much more clearance this 'mild' boatside is turning out.
Post by: TrailTamer on July 24, 2017, 05:54:16 PM
New valve cover gasket.
Newer intake manifold and reuse exhaust manifold (I welded a small crack)
Post by: TrailTamer on July 24, 2017, 06:08:18 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 24, 2017, 06:14:21 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 24, 2017, 06:20:59 PM
Post by: Wingman on July 24, 2017, 07:39:55 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 24, 2017, 08:23:48 PM
Will it be at the picnic Saturday?
Yes, that's my goal to take it out wheeling at the picnic this Saturday. I have Thursday and Friday off from work for in case things get really #lastminuting
Post by: Wingman on July 24, 2017, 08:37:26 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 24, 2017, 08:38:29 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 24, 2017, 10:42:31 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 24, 2017, 10:43:05 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 25, 2017, 11:44:06 PM
Go look at/buy car trailer tomorrow then meeting.
Thursday/Friday
finish rock slider
plate over between frame and rock sliders
mount gas tank and rear upper shock mounts (gas tank will be mounted to it)
install brake calipers and finish brake lines
install fuel line from gas tank to fuel rail
weld in floors
Install bumpers
wash
paint everything where needed
reinstall hood
annnnnddddd go wheeling on Saturday.
Maybe replace the alternator if it's not charging once it's running.
Post by: Wingman on July 26, 2017, 08:02:40 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 26, 2017, 08:39:40 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 26, 2017, 08:57:35 AM
that is a big list haha
I left out a bunch of stuff, including important stuff LOL.
install rear aussie locker
install front ring and pinion w/ locker
install front axle shafts
fab and weld in front seat mounts
(most likely no rear seats for now)
Install muffler and tailpipe, but I may just have it dumped right after muffler temporarily
Hack-N-Tap SYE
Install Driveshafts
Test flex on ramp
adjust rear shock mounts as needed
cut where needed for more clearance
Post by: M4wdFab on July 26, 2017, 09:50:07 AM
that would be no prob then :)
Post by: TrailTamer on August 06, 2017, 09:06:18 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 06, 2017, 09:58:00 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 06, 2017, 10:20:24 PM
running offset to keep away from the diff cover?
Yes. This is another thing to try. I'll try put normal tie rod ends on and see how 'bad' it hit on the cover, possibly grind/cut the cover for clearance if feasible.
Post by: TrailTamer on August 09, 2017, 12:18:47 AM
Not sure on how much shocks should be extended at ride height. I'm thinking to give them a go.
Post by: TrailTamer on August 09, 2017, 12:23:12 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 09, 2017, 12:27:19 AM
One pic is with 2" spacer, other without.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 09, 2017, 09:04:13 AM
you have the ramp home, if you have time I'd leave them tacked until it's moveable and check out the flex.
I'd watch for how close you get to shackle inversion depending on how soft those rear springs are too. Probably be OK but worth a look.
cradle looks really good. solid.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 09, 2017, 11:05:41 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on August 09, 2017, 11:06:23 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 09, 2017, 11:19:01 AM
my pipe kinker will bend 250 wall DOM shallow bends no prob FYI
msg sent, I think regular TRE with bent tie rod will work good.
Post by: TrailTamer on August 09, 2017, 11:51:54 AM
looks like those shocks are 10s or 12s? I'd aim for at least 4" up if you have the room. as far inboard as they are you may need a bump stop further out to keep the tires out of the body when articulating.
Look like 12s
Part# 8368
Ext. 29.5"
Comp. 17.35"
Travel 12.15"
4" suspension uptravel or 4" shock uptravel? I think they're right about there at 4" uptravel as-is. I can move the gas tank cradle's vertical supports up, up to 1.5" with new tubes made that go from horizontal tube to floor.
FYI my plan with this XJ to be streetable and to replace my Daily Driver Chevy Blazer.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 09, 2017, 12:18:08 PM
FYI my plan with this XJ to be streetable and to replace my Daily Driver Chevy Blazer.
important detail there!
4-5" suspension uptravel, squeeze a bit more if you can as long as it stays low. 3" or less is where it starts to really get intolerable.
I think your current 4 is probably a decent place to start as long as shock dampening and spring rate are adequate.
Anything to keep the tie rod straight will help it not kink in the future. if it's something like 1.5x.25 material you should be fine anyway though I'd expect. agreed on ditching the offset TREs unless you go to 16s or 17s.
Post by: TrailTamer on August 09, 2017, 09:05:04 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 09, 2017, 09:12:05 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on August 09, 2017, 11:52:29 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 10, 2017, 12:07:54 AM
get her done!
Trying!
All 4 calipers' brake hose installed and mounted.
Brake hose from frame to axle mounted.
Last piece of frame repair prepped to be welded in tomorrow.
Tomorrow & Friday:
Weld in the frame repair we made tonight
Install front drive shaft and adjust front axle's caster
Hack n tap the t case
Install rear drive shaft
Run brake lines & bleed
Install gas line
Add some gas
Start??
Install muffler with turn down
Install floor
Mount seats
Test on ramp
Finish rear shock mounts
Install bumpers
Paint
Optional:
Plate over gas tank
New floor in cargo component
Post by: M on August 10, 2017, 12:09:39 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on August 10, 2017, 12:11:42 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 10, 2017, 12:22:32 AM
no mufflers in the back of the trail line! haha! nice.
You still belong in back of the trail line with smoke screen you have going on!
Post by: M4wdFab on August 10, 2017, 12:36:27 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 10, 2017, 01:23:24 AM
I think they should be ok as I'm not going to drive at full lock in circles for miles.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 10, 2017, 09:11:21 AM
https://setgroupusa.com/products/1-wheel-spacers-8mm-or-5-16-thick-fits-all-5x4-5-5x4-75-5x135-5x114-3?dfw_tracker=14498-14652565639&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiLDMBRDFARIsACNmiX-LpARdsVuX7ooLh_-VQy4T6pZnVbbM5PRM2j77G4EyNs4nX_II64QaAlSbEALw_wcB
Post by: TrailTamer on August 10, 2017, 09:39:06 AM
these are what i was thinking to help you- i have seen them at local autoparts stores for cheap
https://setgroupusa.com/products/1-wheel-spacers-8mm-or-5-16-thick-fits-all-5x4-5-5x4-75-5x135-5x114-3?dfw_tracker=14498-14652565639&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiLDMBRDFARIsACNmiX-LpARdsVuX7ooLh_-VQy4T6pZnVbbM5PRM2j77G4EyNs4nX_II64QaAlSbEALw_wcB
I had poor experience with them. They're probably OK with aluminum/alloy wheels because they usually have flat mounting surface.
I'm thinking to use old rotors' center portion to use as wheel spacers, automatic snug fit over lug studs and hub centric and free.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 10, 2017, 10:56:16 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on August 10, 2017, 10:58:43 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 10, 2017, 11:13:20 AM
could chuck up an 8.8 or d35 shaft then bolt on rotor to shaft to turn
Debating on to have you to cut them for me or bolt rotors on backward on my XJ, put it in gear and cut it down with cut off wheel, finish up with flap wheel. ???
Post by: M4wdFab on August 10, 2017, 02:08:21 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on August 11, 2017, 10:52:32 AM
how did that fuel rail work out for you?
Post by: TrailTamer on August 11, 2017, 11:16:41 AM
hmm rotor steel didnt like my lathe but we got it done.
how did that fuel rail work out for you?
I had to finish it by grinding them down flat. They're definitely cast iron of some kind. Tough to grind but I got it done.
Fuel rail worked perfect, zero leak.
I'm glad I get to use drive shafts we took from Tom's old red XJ cuz manual trans drive shafts are kinda too short.
Brakes bled and ready.
Post by: TrailTamer on October 04, 2017, 07:07:29 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on October 08, 2017, 01:29:41 PM
Post by: GBR928 on October 16, 2017, 08:17:16 AM
Reused original wheel center caps. Look much better.
Neat!
Post by: TrailTamer on April 02, 2018, 05:50:41 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 02, 2018, 06:26:37 PM
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Post by: TrailTamer on April 16, 2018, 09:23:00 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on May 25, 2018, 11:12:34 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 26, 2018, 08:55:54 AM
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Post by: TrailTamer on May 27, 2018, 06:22:37 PM
-paint roof white
-add heat shield to keep floor temp down
-close up floor and make tool bag/box tie downs
-cooler mount/tie downs
Post by: TrailTamer on May 27, 2018, 06:26:18 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 27, 2018, 07:52:53 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 27, 2018, 07:53:42 PM
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Post by: TrailTamer on May 28, 2018, 12:02:46 AM
Too stiff of shocks would be hard hits, zero bounce.
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I’ll unbolt shocks and see how it roll over bumps. I remember it bounces pretty easily on jack stands before I installed shocks.
It get tiring at RC/AOAA esp that it’s manual so any bounce get fed through throttle via my leg.
Post by: TrailTamer on May 28, 2018, 05:18:24 PM
Post by: Callelle on May 28, 2018, 08:30:25 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 28, 2018, 08:40:03 PM
Post by: Harrison on May 29, 2018, 12:54:54 PM
Post by: Callelle on May 30, 2018, 10:10:05 AM
You can buy Jonny joints that will replace that bushing. Sleeve housing is machined to lightly press in just like the bushing would. Will take much more abuse than another rubber unit will.
Those are what I'm gonna end up doing when I start working on my truss for the 60. That way if I ever want to take out an upper link, all I have to do is change the long arm side to a solid mount.
Post by: TrailTamer on May 31, 2018, 10:21:12 PM
Removed 1/4†homemade wheel spacers
Replaced tie rod ends with regular tie rod end
Trimmed coil spring perches
Notched diff cover
Re-soldered both front door power window switch
Replaced passenger side front window regulator
Replaced steering wheel
Installed cruise control
Post by: TrailTamer on June 01, 2018, 07:25:09 PM
Fixed lights for the most part
Charged A/C and blow cold now
Found that e fan is in-op
Performance all-aluminum radiator arrived
Post by: TrailTamer on June 27, 2018, 09:23:23 PM
New fan clutch going in while I’m at it.
Stock motor mount on driver side is on its way out. Ordered performance engine & trans mounts. Pulled the drive belt to inspect pulley bearings and found that the alternator is seizing. I’ll get Marc’s spare alternator this weekend at Attica. Just empty every pockets.
Bought a new-to-me front bumper to modify & install.
Post by: etk300ex on June 28, 2018, 06:36:40 AM
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Post by: TrailTamer on June 30, 2018, 10:08:27 PM
Eventful trip back home as my dodge ran out of diesel. ::)
I got it to act up again at home the filter/regulator felt warm. I put my spare fuel pump in it and it’s way quieter and the problem went away.
Round two tomorrow! 8)
Post by: TrailTamer on July 01, 2018, 05:38:34 PM
The fuel pump restored power and no more random stumbling, stalling.
No more overheating even in this heat with A/C running. The cooling system repair/upgrade also fixed its hot idle oil pressure problem too.
Success
Post by: TrailTamer on August 08, 2018, 02:43:03 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 12, 2018, 01:30:19 PM
More upgrades (& repairs) coming.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 12, 2018, 09:47:52 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 13, 2018, 03:43:09 PM
Not looking to spend much on a new caliper. I’ll try new pistons and seals from RockAuto if the caliper is repairable (after I remove cracked pistons)
Post by: mr.mindless on August 13, 2018, 04:58:17 PM
Post by: Wingman on August 13, 2018, 04:59:59 PM
I don't think I've ever seen a caliper worth repairing rather than replacing money wise.
This.
Post by: TrailTamer on August 13, 2018, 05:11:52 PM
I don't think I've ever seen a caliper worth repairing rather than replacing money wise. Not a $35 caliper?
You’re right. I was keep on thinking it’s like >$100/caliper (I just put new calipers on my dodge)
$25 each and no core charge on rockauto. I’ll get that one.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 14, 2018, 09:27:54 AM
Post by: rejeep on August 14, 2018, 10:50:48 AM
get a pair of them save yourself the hassel on the other side.
yup
Post by: TrailTamer on August 14, 2018, 04:52:55 PM
1) take it out and bend/hammer it straight-er & apply JB welds if wherever it may need.
2) take to empire for an estimate (& repair if cheap)
Post by: TrailTamer on August 14, 2018, 04:55:29 PM
I’m gonna look for at least 15†by 36†of steel Expanded mesh to go in between condenser and grille.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 14, 2018, 05:24:23 PM
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Post by: TrailTamer on August 14, 2018, 05:28:56 PM
I just threw a $89 offer to the eBay seller. I paid $89 for it in early June. It jumped to $135 now.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 14, 2018, 05:50:58 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 21, 2018, 03:40:48 PM
If I have time:
Remove t-case to reseal (leaking at where both halves meets) and to clock it up higher
Finish the floor/cover around the gas tank & shocks (if I have time)
Build skid plates for engine, trans and t-case. Unsure yet about how to protect cat & muffler.
Install the drilled & tapped rebuilt steering box (thank Marc!)
Relocate windshield wiper washer tank
Update: decided to deal with exhaust another time. Stock exhaust hang low. I’ll like to redo exhaust for better ground clearance and to give me more room to build skid plates later.
Post by: TrailTamer on October 26, 2018, 10:42:14 PM
1) Steering still feels tight (ball joints are still tight)
2) this is the main problem. Gas on or off, it wants to change lanes. I gotta try swap rear tires to have same diameter and see whether this is why, likely is, though
Current Shocks (doestech) are definitely overdamped.
Post by: TrailTamer on October 31, 2018, 06:51:25 PM
Dramatically reduced in cab noises!!!
Post by: TrailTamer on November 26, 2018, 09:13:12 PM
Found D30 pinion bearing loose. It was fine when inspected on ~Aug 21
My guess is pinion bearings are on their way out. I’ll find out soon enough.
Post by: TrailTamer on November 29, 2018, 11:37:57 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 29, 2018, 01:45:49 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 01, 2018, 11:06:20 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 04, 2018, 06:53:00 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 21, 2018, 09:16:11 AM
95% sure it’s lane merge attempts were from binding ball joints (ball joints misaligned from bent inner C) and insufficient caster. I modified track bar frame side mount, to line up better with drag link and not to rub on tire on tight right turns.
Need to put in real bump stops. But for now I’ll just let drag link & track bar do it’s self clearancing on the oil pan ;D
Post by: mr.mindless on December 21, 2018, 11:30:24 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on January 06, 2019, 04:54:56 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on May 07, 2019, 10:42:41 AM
E-fan died, AGAIN. This is the third fan that died in my XJ. The first two were used units. Third was brand new. What gives...
Post by: mr.mindless on May 07, 2019, 12:04:11 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on May 07, 2019, 12:50:23 PM
Post by: Callelle on May 07, 2019, 07:14:14 PM
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Post by: TrailTamer on July 21, 2020, 09:05:57 PM
Drove it up and down at Attica on Friday. Tires are awesome on traction. It just goes, even in 2wd.
Need to get rear fenders cut and add some bump stops front & rear.
Unsure if I have something going on with engine, very underpowered. It was tolerable on old 35s. 5th gear useless unless perfectly flat or downhill.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 21, 2020, 10:01:28 PM
Not sure how marginal power was before though. Sounded fine when you left here FWIW
Post by: Callelle on July 21, 2020, 10:32:21 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 21, 2020, 10:52:47 PM
Seem to be ok idle-moderate throttle at lower speed, up to around 45 mph and no hill. 3rd gear is mandatory to go up a steep hill when not going any faster than 40-45 mph.
Foot to the floor to accelerate (slowly) up a steep hill at any speed and any gears.
Loaded 18 wheelers go up hills faster than me lol. WOT in 4th gear and unable to hold 55-60 (2,300-2,500 rpm) uphill.
No check engine light or pending codes. Surprisingly still get reasonable fuel mileage despite it see WOT regularly. Approx 250 miles to a tank with mixed of highway and city driving (factory 20 gallon tank).
I was able to hold my cruising speed at or near WOT on old 35s.
I’m fine with lacking of power if that’s what it is, but will want to fix it if this isn’t normal.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 22, 2020, 09:03:13 AM
Seeing fuel trim or monitoring a wide and o2 would be the real way to check.
Post by: TrailTamer on July 22, 2020, 09:26:55 AM
Can you check fuel pressure under load? Might be dumb and wrong but it’s my first though followed by dirty injectors.
Seeing fuel trim or monitoring a wide and o2 would be the real way to check.
I might should've mentioned that injectors was fine. I tried to 'fix' it with 4 hole injectors as an upgrade (original only have 1!) before figuring out that the ECM is bad. Marc found me an ECM from a 97 XJ and that fixed it. No power gain or loss that I can notice with old ECM (before it broke) and replacement ECM or injectors.
I will need a scan tool with ability to show fuel trim. Even though usually it'll throw a code if corrections are so large.
I will need to try find my fuel pressure tester, but doubtful it's the problem. A note, my XJ is 98 and it use returnless fuel system, if that mean anything.
Post by: M4wdFab on July 22, 2020, 09:31:13 AM
needs more R's and less brick though wind. if no codes and fuel mileage is on par, drop a gear and adjust your expectations.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 22, 2020, 10:02:08 AM
drop a gear and adjust your expectations.
well put :)
Post by: M4wdFab on July 22, 2020, 10:55:59 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 22, 2020, 11:13:46 AM
drop a gear and adjust your expectations.
well put :)
I am fine with that, as long as this is normal for Jeep's HO 4.0
Doesn't want to 'deal with it' if there's more to be had lol
Post by: Callelle on July 22, 2020, 12:33:43 PM
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Post by: TrailTamer on August 11, 2020, 09:28:23 AM
I finally took the time to inspect its steering components. Nearly all of them are bad!!! All 4 TREs (GM 1 ton), loose track bar heim at axle side, rust seized on frame side, steering box sector shaft (side to side with a clunk). Ball joints are still fine. Approximately 15,000 miles since the build, most are road miles.
I think some of it may have to do with steering stops on knuckles not perfectly matched with box? I welded a little on inner Cs to stop axle shaft yokes from touching each others.
Either way, I’ll tighten the steering box, replace all of TREs & heims.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 11, 2020, 10:20:52 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 11, 2020, 11:06:13 AM
Heims - Ruff Stuff.
TREs - drag link TREs are MEVOTECH Supremes, which supposed to be decent and is metal to metal. Tie rod link TREs are from Ruff Stuff.
I will be replacing them with $5 TREs. MCQUAY-NORRIS brand, don't know if they're legit, but whatever. I got a few as that brand apparently is being wholesaler closeout'd on RockAuto. I bought all of "1 ton GM TREs" they had a while ago as a trail spares lol.
Post by: TrailTamer on August 12, 2020, 11:23:43 AM
Gotta love McMaster-Carr's blistering fast shipping!
The list on this round of preventative maintenance keep on growing...
-All 4 TREs
-Track Bar Heims
-Steering Box Sector Shaft need adjusted
-both wheel U-Joints (Spicer 5-760X)
Post by: TrailTamer on August 14, 2020, 01:27:33 PM
1 track bar heim replaced. Second heim scheduled to deliver today.
Steering box adjusted
It cruise at 70 very smooth 😎
Post by: Wingman on August 14, 2020, 09:21:59 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 29, 2020, 05:28:39 PM
I can’t realistically make 15x8 wheels to work. Dropped to 8psi and shoulders still have tits on them.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 31, 2020, 08:22:42 AM
because running 10" wide wheels with a 12.50 tire is silly
Post by: TrailTamer on August 31, 2020, 08:37:46 AM
there is a reason no one will ever have 10" wide 15" wheels
because running 10" wide wheels with a 12.50 tire is silly
my tires is 36x13.5R15 IROK BIAS
Actual measurement is about 36.8" overall diameter, 14.5" cross section width, per Interco.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 31, 2020, 08:59:14 AM