Post by: KingtheZJ on March 16, 2013, 07:40:24 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 16, 2013, 10:31:34 PM
This hog is sweet. But is not pleased about the cold and is currently getting double teamed.
This was the result of too much cranking with a stuck shut off solenoid. After a quick phone call to a friend, I swiftly facepalmed, flipped it up and it fired right up. Needed to do this the next couple starts as well, has been fine since.
Changed the oil, put on a new cone filter since the one on it was fucked and not really sealed. Not totally thrilled about using a cone filter or that the old wasn't sealed well, but oh well. $25 and it has a good air filter.
The tailgate is fubar'd and is ratchet strapped closed. Wheel well rust on the bed and big dent, 2lb body work and weld in patches will be the fix. Floors need attention but are not bad in most places. Hopefully get to that this summer before it gets worse. Rockers/cab corners really aren't bad. Plow is a mutt, maybe worth a couple hundred. Uniroyals on the bling wheels are 265 (32") and good tread. Gonna swap them to the stock wheels and sell the bling. Needs hard brake lines and at least one soft line to the caliper. Will need exhaust. 4.10s have me doing about 2300 at 70, didn't seem so bad once I set the cruise control. Hahaha
Overall, it runs great and doesn't need anything major to be a truck I'll be happy with for a long time.
I'm in love ;D
Post by: Harrison on March 16, 2013, 10:36:16 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 17, 2013, 07:11:16 AM
TurnedUp
Turnip?
Post by: etk300ex on March 17, 2013, 11:50:52 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 17, 2013, 11:06:15 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/17/umy3amyp.jpg)
I'm not quite up on my pop cartoon culture, WTF is that??
Post by: etk300ex on March 18, 2013, 08:00:06 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 18, 2013, 03:51:10 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/17/5u4upazu.jpg)
This hog just passed emissions, and apparently by a huge margin!
Post by: KingtheZJ on March 18, 2013, 04:09:03 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on March 18, 2013, 04:09:49 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 20, 2013, 01:26:05 PM
Regarding oil dribbling out the dipstick tube:
probably need a vacuum pump seal change! the sweet kit on ebay to do it twice is 65$
Can someone explain this to a diesel noob? From what I've gathered, vacuum pump's outlet is into the crankcase. If the vacuum system is tight, there should be no flow. If there is a leak, it pulls air from the leak and pressurizes the crankcase?
What seals are you talking about Smike? I was thinking a vacuum leak somewhere would cause this, I don't know much about the pump. There is a large line that goes from the brake booster to what I'm assuming is the vacuum pump (right under the injection pump). No apparent leaks there, but did not thoroughly inspect the rest of the system.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 20, 2013, 01:36:46 PM
I believe that truck is the same as mikes 97 and my 01. diesel trucks dont have vacuum so to run hvac and cruse and such they stuck a vacuum pump between the gear case and the power steering pump. well this 1100$ unit gets a grove wore into the shaft and leaks. mine was so bad id have a puddle the size of a basket ball under a 10 minute idle when fueling while towing.
guy on ebay sells some PVC tools to press in a new seal that is a double lip seal that strattles the single lip OE seal grove so you dont have to replace the whole pump! it was 65$ and he sends you the parts to do the job twice since its really 6$ in PVC and a 2$ seal.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 20, 2013, 01:38:12 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2013, 01:50:35 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 20, 2013, 02:09:28 PM
Post by: Nick on March 20, 2013, 03:06:04 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 20, 2013, 03:13:19 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 20, 2013, 03:46:33 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 21, 2013, 06:48:32 PM
stupid useless aside from grossing 50k 4.10s.
As I've been driving this around, I can't understand how anyone thought this was a good idea
:o
In fact, I almost suspect it would feel nuttier if it had 3.55s. Right now, it seems like it has no power until I get into 4th gear and lug it down, then the torque makes it pickup pretty good.
Post by: Nick on March 21, 2013, 07:21:57 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2013, 09:02:20 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 21, 2013, 09:39:06 PM
I'm mildly concerned about that. I'll let you know, hopefully sometime soon.
?
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2013, 09:45:16 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 25, 2013, 10:12:03 AM
Got to check out the front end when we changed the wheels. Spent my Sunday replacing 4 ball joints, 2 u joints, trackbar and pitman TRE. Much better now.
My local diesel tech support (diesel tech friend) came over to help and took it for a spin. He was pleased with how it ran, but was concerned about the coal rolling ability. We found that the fuel plate was removed and boost line missing. I also had him check out the play in the turbo... he advised me not to drive it until I replaced it, about 1/4" of play in/out. Fortunately, he has a good, low mileage one... and just acquired a Dodge 2500 gasser and is interested in my plow so we're gonna make a deal. In any event, his reccomendations on top of the turbo were:
Reconnect boost line to fuel pump
#10 fuel plate
Gauges before towing anything since what has been done to the motor is not 100% known
Fuel plates are apparently retardedly expensive, $75 on Ebay for the cheapest one I can find. If I had the stocker, I'd grind it down but it's MIA. Mike, you don't have one laying around do you?
Post by: M4wdFab on March 25, 2013, 11:05:43 AM
good things to catch before big booms. sounds like it will be a good truck with some dollars and time. I bet chadly has a couple plates laying around.
Post by: Harrison on March 25, 2013, 11:25:03 AM
Also needs all brake hard lines and then I will feel OK about putting a load behind this thing.
I better get on top of this veg thing soon... this truck is turning into an investment! From what I could tell though, spending $5k on a truck wasn't going to get me anything much better, so dumping $700 into a $4300 truck is stomachable I suppose, especially to have the peace of mind.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 25, 2013, 12:03:33 PM
Good catch on the turbo, blowing that would suck big time.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 25, 2013, 12:14:32 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 25, 2013, 02:54:04 PM
No fuel plate is fine, get the AFC functional and you'll be happy. Regulate lower fuel with your foot, not an issue in a manual trans truck. Lack of a fuel plate will not fuck the pump up regardless of what the Internet says.
Good catch on the turbo, blowing that would suck big time.
AFC does not need fuel plate to perform it's duty? I've been sticking to what I hear from experienced diesel people such as yourselves much more than the internet anyway!
Post by: mr.mindless on March 25, 2013, 03:01:06 PM
the AFC is dynamic based on boost level. More air makes that move forward. set it too conservatively and you'll never build boost. gut it or set it too far forward and you'll smoke the shit out of the world and your right foot is all that's between you and melted puddles of aluminum that used to be your pistons.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 25, 2013, 03:09:48 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 25, 2013, 04:11:15 PM
Picking up turbo tomorrow
Hopefully picking up fuel plate tomorrow
Need to get plumbing bits to reconnect AFC
Main vacuum line is sorta collapsed, need a section of that
Spool of 3/16" brake line and 3/8" fittings
My big block doesn't owe me anything, but this thing is an absolute pleasure to work on compared to that. Love it!
Post by: mr.mindless on March 25, 2013, 04:16:58 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 25, 2013, 04:20:02 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 25, 2013, 04:31:53 PM
if it's present + functional and not seeing boost, you'd get about 20% of fuel at most.
Post by: Harrison on March 25, 2013, 04:50:19 PM
Balls, finding these little pump parts is not fun
Post by: Harrison on March 25, 2013, 04:59:27 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 25, 2013, 05:00:37 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 25, 2013, 05:12:09 PM
i was thinking about a 12valve just because of the amount of oil i throw out from the shop. i bet i could commute all year on waste oil :)
Post by: Harrison on March 25, 2013, 05:15:30 PM
sounds fun.
I'm sure Mike is sick of messing with these things, and I probably will be one day myself. But I am fascinated by how simple it all is! 8)
It hurts my brain to try to think of all the shit going on under the hood of my Suburban hahahaha
Post by: M4wdFab on March 25, 2013, 05:22:02 PM
After Mike and i diagnosed my ECM to be bad and then convinced ourselves that couldntbe the case- when 30Days later at a dealer and 2ECMs later it was,
we have the technology,
Post by: Harrison on March 26, 2013, 07:40:48 AM
frustrated at throwing 900$ or 1400$ bits at it
I saw a couple sweet deals on 24v's... just couldn't do it. Hahaha
Post by: mr.mindless on March 26, 2013, 09:42:12 AM
In the meantime, gauges will tell me if I'm on the way to turning my pistons into aluminum puddles, no? Keep an eye on boost, pyro and what's coming out of the tailpipe and I'll be OK?
yup
keep EGTs in check and you'll be fine. It may not be worth the time and effort to put that back to stock. Check Competition Diesel for someone who may be selling a complete AFC?
Post by: Harrison on March 27, 2013, 10:28:04 AM
Gauges came too. Gonna get those on tonight and hopefully take it for a spin and see how close I've been coming to puddling my pistons.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 27, 2013, 10:53:51 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 28, 2013, 08:49:11 AM
Gauges also on. No boost reading, I suspect I kinked the plastic line somewhere. I know I kinked it a couple times when I was fishing it around where it needed to go, hopefully straightening it back out is a sufficient fix. Pyro works and never went above 800 F on the test drive, and that was juicing it up a hill around 50mph in 5th.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 28, 2013, 09:09:07 AM
is the probe before or after the turbo?
Post by: Harrison on March 28, 2013, 09:27:19 AM
Also, took the AFC off to get to the port in the manifold easier. Looks like everything is there, but the leg has been ground off. You were right, Mike.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 28, 2013, 09:53:56 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 28, 2013, 09:57:59 AM
Post by: Nick on March 28, 2013, 10:29:40 AM
Post by: Nick on March 28, 2013, 10:30:23 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 28, 2013, 10:35:42 AM
a stock HX35 on a truck with no fueling control shouldn't run that cool. maybe 4.10s and no load don't let it work or build heat? assuming it's 4.10s.
Post by: Harrison on March 28, 2013, 10:40:52 AM
Mike, is DB 100% part-out status at this point? I'm on a shoestring budget until after Big Dogs, but I would be interested in your transfer tank and turbo if it is in good shape and larger than what I have now...
Post by: mr.mindless on March 28, 2013, 11:52:58 AM
I made out a potential price list this morning, it probably needs some reality checking and adjustment but at least it's a starting point.
I think I put down 500 for turbo w the banks brake, and 200 for the xfer tank.
I think I paid 150 for the tank plus whatever into the install stuff, I don't remember on the brake.
I may or may not still have the exhaust exit housing that the banks brake replaces but you would have that of your bad hx35
I need to check and measure endplay on that for selling purposes eventually.
Post by: Harrison on March 28, 2013, 11:23:21 PM
Got the boost gauge re-plumbed with 1/4" fuel hose. I read a lot of blah blah about hose expanding and not using it for boost gauges but I just don't see that thick of a wall swelling from 30-40lbs. In any event, that was the problem. Normal driving I'm maxing out at 25lbs, and I can hit 35 if I really try. The wastegate is welded shut on that turbo, might have forgotten to mention that.
Mike, aside from a 3k governor spring, what else have you done? It would appear that with removing all the idiot proofing (fuel plate, AFC, waste gate) its still pretty hard to get into a bad situation with an otherwise stock pump and turbo?
Post by: mr.mindless on March 29, 2013, 09:16:42 AM
probably stock sticks and DVs? (injectors and delivery valves)
my pump has stock DVs and a 4k GSK. on the original 12v and stock cam and stock sticks I could still hit 1200+ easily, but probably not while empty
Post by: Nick on March 29, 2013, 09:20:39 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 29, 2013, 09:53:58 AM
Good to know mike, thanks. Idk when I'm gonna have spare cash to be honest, but I will try! Really want the transfer tank at least.
I think I have a local guy buying the brake. I'm asking 300 for the turbo and 200 for the tank, if you want to commit just throw me a couple bucks and I'll hold 'em.
and just make me a fair offer, those are "other people prices"
Post by: Harrison on April 01, 2013, 10:55:03 AM
I am realizing that veg might not be a good option as a renter. No good place to store overflow and after visiting a local veg refiner's garage and having the smell in my nose for a long time after, I can see the living space above our garage smelling like that. Going to shoot for filtering and blending waste motor oil instead to just offset fuel costs. Throw 2-3 5 gallon buckets in before leaving and carry 2-3 with me to dump in for the trip back. No real need to carry 100 gallons around with me. Less smelly processing and collecting/using at my own pace.
On a side note, please feel free to save any waste MOTOR oil (gear oil is too heavy and ATF has some pretty nasty shit to be burning from what I'm reading) and bring it to Big Dogs and other wheeling events this summer. ;D
Post by: Wingman on April 01, 2013, 11:16:59 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 01, 2013, 11:19:45 AM
long thread
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/815276-oil-diesel.html
Post by: Harrison on April 01, 2013, 11:20:02 AM
My current supply is a hodge-podge of all of the above...
Hmm... largely motor oil, and most importantly NO water?
Post by: mr.mindless on April 01, 2013, 11:20:15 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 01, 2013, 11:23:02 AM
gear oil can be thinned out with gasoline. ATF is fine.
long thread
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/815276-oil-diesel.html
Adding gas seems annoying and counterproductive to cost saving efforts. I'm hoping in smaller concentrations gear oil will be OK. Plan to stick to this in the warmer months anyway.
Fuck it, I'll take whatever you have. If I decide not to use it, the dump 5 minutes from my house has a waste oil and coolant receptacle I can dispose of it in.
Post by: Harrison on April 01, 2013, 11:27:01 AM
my buckets are also a hodge-podge, and need both filtering and water separation
Really trying to avoid having to separate water unless I can feel condifent about gravity being OK at doing that.
Plan is to follow Nick's setup with the sock filters, probably 10, 5, 1 micron filters on top of each other (to avoid immediately clogging the 1 micron filters) into a 55 gallon drum. Two spouts on the drum, one at the very bottom for sludge drainage to go to dump receptacle and one 8" or so up from the bottom for good oil collecting.
Post by: M4wdFab on April 01, 2013, 11:27:55 AM
Post by: Wingman on April 01, 2013, 12:00:43 PM
Post by: rejeep on April 01, 2013, 12:08:41 PM
I can inquire about their grease removal... but I assume it would need to be a semi prof operation.. not just a guy with a bucket and hose..
Post by: Harrison on April 01, 2013, 12:11:29 PM
I have a good friend whose family owns 2 popular restaurant chains in WNY...
I can inquire about their grease removal... but I assume it would need to be a semi prof operation.. not just a guy with a bucket and hose..
Right, and that is a lot of the reason I am steering away from veg right now. I know I would need to make regularly scheduled pick ups regardless of how much I needed. I have no place to put overflow, and used motor oil is easier to procure/use at my own pace.
Post by: Nick on April 01, 2013, 12:55:56 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 05, 2013, 12:53:31 PM
I'm going to drive it around all weekend. Barring any issues, I'm calling it Big Dogs ready.
Bed is probably not worth salvaging - rot over both wheel wells and starting on underside. Also huge dent/tear on passenger side rear and tailgate is F'd. Works for now, but will be keeping my eye out for a complete, color matched one in good shape.
Rocker panel seams are getting crusty. I will inspect further, but the "hit it with your fist" test did not indicate the panels were too bad inside. Considering patching the the seam in a couple spots and doing bedliner, maybe gray (not a huge fan of the black/white look I've seen like that on these.) Floors need to be patched from the frame out on both sides, otherwise OK.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 05, 2013, 01:18:32 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 08, 2013, 07:49:08 AM
I have a passable tailgate for you. latch needs help on one side and it's a little bent but it's highly servicable.
Sweet, how much? Even if I go with another bed, not have to ratchet strap the tailgate closed would be really nice. Thanks.
Drove all weekend, no issues. Steering still feels a little loose, checked it and the new trackbar bushing seems to squish maybe 1/4" back and forth, but that was the only visible play. Meh.
Post by: M4wdFab on April 08, 2013, 08:25:07 AM
time to drill out the hole or weld in washers to the mount?
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2013, 08:34:11 AM
Fitty bucks?
Post by: M4wdFab on April 08, 2013, 08:37:13 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 08, 2013, 08:39:18 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 08, 2013, 08:42:54 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2013, 08:58:41 AM
Ball sizes are 1-7/8, 2, 2-5/16.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2013, 08:59:58 AM
Post by: cracker on April 08, 2013, 09:00:47 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 08, 2013, 09:06:14 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 11, 2013, 09:42:52 AM
7 prong plug is about to fall off, wires in BAD shape. Also, brake controller does not show any signs of life. Hoping it's the little circuit breaker thingy screwed to the fender.
Post by: Harrison on April 12, 2013, 09:32:42 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 14, 2013, 10:56:48 PM
Question: what towing practices will help prolong 5th gear life? I was making a point of not going from 4th to 5th until about 45mph.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 15, 2013, 12:10:51 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 15, 2013, 08:49:25 AM
Post by: Nick on April 27, 2013, 08:18:34 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 28, 2013, 07:43:54 PM
Lose batter connection made it not want to start again after unloading jeep in my driveway.
Fuel pressure shrader valve did not seal when I took the gauge off after it was started, sprayed fuel everywhere.
Pressing in the clutch pedal gives this awesome squealing noise now.
Not really in the mood to even look at this thing right now
Post by: mr.mindless on April 29, 2013, 09:13:46 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 29, 2013, 10:53:36 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 29, 2013, 11:06:03 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 29, 2013, 11:07:51 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 29, 2013, 11:19:48 AM
i didnt regrind the flywheel, just put it in.
Post by: Harrison on April 29, 2013, 11:23:18 AM
Are you talking about them just rebuilding the bearing, leaving the clutch?
Post by: mr.mindless on April 29, 2013, 12:10:35 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 29, 2013, 01:03:28 PM
http://worcester.craigslist.org/pts/3732240436.html
Guy says these have 50k on them. Worth a shot?
I don't remember doing the injector line loosening diagnosis again on Saturday night. I will do that again tonight and pay close attention to the #1 cylinder. Would 4* or so retarded timing cause such a consistent vibration? Or would it just be kinda doggy? Seems like one cylinder down would be really consistent like I'm feeling that varies with engine speed. But, it also seems to me that it would still be willing to blow lots of black smoke if just on injector down.
Post by: Nick on April 29, 2013, 01:07:13 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 29, 2013, 01:50:45 PM
Remembering my locker ordeal lesson and questioning if used injectors are worth it...
Post by: Harrison on April 29, 2013, 02:02:52 PM
Confirmed with them on the phone that the injectors are the same for 5spd/auto, pump is different. $12.50 for shipping. Not worth the risk going used for that price.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 29, 2013, 02:18:11 PM
DAP is who I've gone through and trust, twice the price, $300 and up. http://www.dieselautopower.com/category_s/419.htm
Post by: M4wdFab on April 29, 2013, 04:06:29 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 29, 2013, 04:18:57 PM
Mike, when Chad loosened the #1 delivery valve line, didn't you ask why it was spinning with it? Is this an issue that you guys would have spotted when loosening that DV or when Chad took it out for the timing?
Post by: mr.mindless on April 29, 2013, 04:36:08 PM
we didn't crack lines again after failing at timing, could easily be a DV or holder issue especially if it's specific to one hole.
Post by: Harrison on April 29, 2013, 08:44:40 PM
#1 injector. Switching it w #2 to see if the problem follows.
Post by: Harrison on April 29, 2013, 08:45:36 PM
#2 injector
Post by: Harrison on April 29, 2013, 10:49:27 PM
When #1 is cracked, fuel dribbles out. When #2 is cracked, fuel comes spraying out pulsating.
My logic tells me that a fuel delivery issue somewhere on the #1 delivery system damaged the #1 injector (from running too hot or something?)
Post by: mr.mindless on April 30, 2013, 09:14:29 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on April 30, 2013, 10:15:52 AM
I can swap them back and forth? Read some thing about not swapping them as they were toleranced with the pump? Seems weird, forgive my ignorance.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 30, 2013, 10:27:08 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 30, 2013, 12:49:02 PM
http://www.fuelinjectorwhse.com/injectors.php?id=DE891
$300 shipped after core charge.
One other things: am I damaging anything by running it with the bad throwout bearing? I read something about scoring the transmission shaft or something? I'd like to get it running right before I tackle that.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 30, 2013, 01:13:24 PM
you could score the shaft with a bad pilot bushing/bearing
Post by: Harrison on April 30, 2013, 01:35:38 PM
I need to research basic clutch assembly drawings so I can understand this I guess haha
Post by: M4wdFab on April 30, 2013, 01:39:44 PM
when you push in, the bearing pushes agains the fingers on the clutch to release the spring force on the plate(s)
Post by: Harrison on May 02, 2013, 09:41:49 PM
Test drive was night and day better than Sunday.
Drinking a beer now.
Post by: etk300ex on May 03, 2013, 10:52:20 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 03, 2013, 11:08:13 AM
Great news on the injectors. great great.
Post by: Harrison on May 03, 2013, 11:16:54 AM
Also, I can now stand next to the tailpipe without my eyes burning. Pretty sweet!!!!!! 8)
Post by: mr.mindless on May 03, 2013, 12:01:49 PM
Post by: Harrison on May 03, 2013, 12:04:06 PM
Post by: Harrison on May 05, 2013, 09:21:51 PM
Ugly, but would be so sweet for camping
Post by: Wingman on May 05, 2013, 10:01:57 PM
Post by: dubt on May 05, 2013, 11:10:40 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 06, 2013, 08:31:20 AM
Post by: etk300ex on May 06, 2013, 08:36:24 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 06, 2013, 09:56:33 AM
Post by: matt on May 06, 2013, 12:45:32 PM
http://www.bostechfuel.com/injectors.php?id=DE891
http://www.fuelinjectorwhse.com/injectors.php?id=DE891
$300 shipped after core charge.
One other things: am I damaging anything by running it with the bad throwout bearing? I read something about scoring the transmission shaft or something? I'd like to get it running right before I tackle that.
What company you end up going to? Or are they the same? I am still diagnosing my problem. Compression test today or tomorrow.
Post by: Harrison on May 06, 2013, 12:57:43 PM
What is your truck doing? Mine was hazing badly at idle, running really rough (like running on 5 cylinders all the time rough) and even backfiring out the tailpipe. I haven't really had it out to romp on it a lot since I still need to change the delivery valve o-ring and throw out bearing, but the quick test drive I took it on was much better. Maybe the best it's been in the couple months I've owned it.
Post by: rejeep on May 06, 2013, 01:17:18 PM
Post by: Harrison on May 06, 2013, 01:33:03 PM
Post by: matt on May 07, 2013, 08:47:26 AM
From there, get a new reman'd pump and injectors with the decision being p7100 or stick with a ve. Currenly is a ve but have everything to do a p pump conversion. I was told the p pump is working but would like the piece of mind that it is perfect.
Post by: Harrison on May 08, 2013, 01:03:40 PM
Post by: matt on May 08, 2013, 09:09:21 PM
I think I may disable the rockers and do a leak down test and see if and where the air comes out. Out exhaust or intake, valve issue out breather, piston issue.
then go from there. Hopefully know more this weekend. Time is a ticking
What sucks is I had a camping trip planned for Memorial Day, only 30 minute drive but kids will hate me if the truck isn't back up and running.
Anyone want to deliver a 5th wheel for me? lol I got an adapter that fits a b&w......
Post by: Harrison on May 09, 2013, 08:38:13 AM
Got my $25 DV tool yesterday and swung by the local diesel pump shop and got some o-rings. Threw one in the #1 DV and no fuel leaks. Sweet.
It still has just a slight roughness, you have to really pay attention. More noticeable through the tailpipe. Still on #1 cylinder when cracking the lines for change in sound.
When I crack the lines, I get bubbles for the first couple turns that eventually turn into the pretty forceful pulsating spray. Normal or maybe air in lines?
Post by: mr.mindless on May 09, 2013, 08:54:37 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on May 09, 2013, 09:02:06 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 09, 2013, 09:05:51 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on May 09, 2013, 09:40:13 PM
Boost won't hit 20psi and egt's easily hit 1100 empty now. Suspecting a boost leak as 35psi used to be easy and 900 used to be difficult.
Post by: Harrison on May 09, 2013, 09:40:27 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 10, 2013, 08:52:53 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on May 10, 2013, 09:54:10 AM
In that event, he suggested starting moving in 4low on the starter motor, slamming into hi once running, and shifting without the clutch till I got home.
On a side note, $25/qt!!!!!!!!!!!!! for the GOTTA HAVE NV4500 fluid at the dealer. I need a gallon
Post by: M4wdFab on May 10, 2013, 11:10:02 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 10, 2013, 11:11:03 AM
Post by: Harrison on May 10, 2013, 01:14:39 PM
Chad gave me the number of a guy wanting to unload a rust free white long bed, $450. Roommate is going to be out that way this weekend with his Burb anyway, hopefully he can just bring his trailer with him too.
Post by: M4wdFab on May 10, 2013, 01:23:38 PM
i was just going to roll in 1st, but i was topped out so i shifted to 2nd, and 3rd lol was crusing like 10-12 mPH id say by the time i got across the street
Post by: Harrison on May 12, 2013, 09:32:00 PM
One ball bearing and a shred of steel fell out when I separated the transmission. Guessing the rest had vacated already haha
Also, Southbend was a myth. Luk stamped all over it, probably less than 50%. Good decision to get the kit.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/13/u9ahy9yt.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/13/8edapaha.jpg)
Haven't seen this thing in the daylight yet, but it looks really clean. One spot with a small scrap with surface rust. NBD. Definitely happy.
No tailgate though, Mike I'll be home in two weeks and grab yours if I can!!!
Post by: KingtheZJ on May 12, 2013, 09:40:29 PM
Sweet bed looks sweet
Post by: Wingman on May 12, 2013, 09:46:15 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 13, 2013, 08:51:19 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on May 13, 2013, 08:56:15 PM
5th looks unfixed.
Options? Chad says thorough cleaning and red Loctite. I'd feel better about welding.
Post by: M4wdFab on May 14, 2013, 08:51:25 AM
Post by: Harrison on May 14, 2013, 09:28:48 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 14, 2013, 09:58:42 AM
this doesn't seem like a terrible idea, I've never seen it before.
www.ebay.com/itm/NV4500-DODGE-5TH-GEAR-LOCK-NUT-RETAINER-UPDATED-/180851331740
I fully buy into Quad 4x4's full explanation and solution.
http://www.quad4x4.com/NV4500%205th%20Gear%20Failures%20and%20Solutions.htm
I don't see the parts in their online catalog though.
For your use, a really good cleaning, heavy heavy dose of red locktite, and a couple solid tacks
Post by: Harrison on May 14, 2013, 10:23:38 AM
Post by: Harrison on May 14, 2013, 10:25:10 AM
Post by: KingtheZJ on May 14, 2013, 10:25:43 AM
Post by: matt on May 14, 2013, 12:10:05 PM
full weld seems like a bad idea for several reasons - heat & normalizing being #1.
this doesn't seem like a terrible idea, I've never seen it before.
www.ebay.com/itm/NV4500-DODGE-5TH-GEAR-LOCK-NUT-RETAINER-UPDATED-/180851331740
I fully buy into Quad 4x4's full explanation and solution.
http://www.quad4x4.com/NV4500%205th%20Gear%20Failures%20and%20Solutions.htm
I don't see the parts in their online catalog though.
For your use, a really good cleaning, heavy heavy dose of red locktite, and a couple solid tacks
I like the retainer idea. Too bad they don't offer one for 2wd.
Post by: Nick on May 14, 2013, 02:31:15 PM
Post by: Harrison on May 15, 2013, 09:37:02 AM
Post by: Harrison on May 20, 2013, 11:32:52 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/21/u4avy2y3.jpg)
Small progress, but progress nonetheless
Post by: Harrison on May 21, 2013, 09:08:44 PM
Home stretch now!
Post by: M4wdFab on May 22, 2013, 10:12:38 AM
i changed my clutch and pulled my NV5600 in a gravel driveway with a cherry picker through the passenger door haha
Post by: Harrison on May 22, 2013, 10:43:30 AM
cherry picker through the passenger door haha
This was considered as an option, especially since the trans had to get loaded on the jack undet the truck (top of bellhousing rubs frame rail as it slides under haha) but the passenger door is against the wall, no room on driver's side with the steering column.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 22, 2013, 11:12:30 AM
Post by: Harrison on May 22, 2013, 11:32:04 AM
Post by: jacel86 on May 22, 2013, 11:40:34 AM
Post by: Harrison on May 22, 2013, 12:05:04 PM
....trunks.
Must be why Nick and his twigs only went 6spd.
Post by: Nick on May 22, 2013, 12:09:10 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 22, 2013, 02:27:15 PM
wiggle wiggle wiggle!
and a pair of long "starter" bolts to help align.
"easy"
Post by: Harrison on May 27, 2013, 05:57:21 PM
Drove it all weekend, was having a hard time hitting 15psi of boost. Pulled the intake horn off and resealed the gasket with the separated corner (need to just buy new.) Removed, cleaned, reinstalled tubes and elbows and I'm back to hitting 35psi at WOT like before.
Not getting any black smoke though, all grey unless I just stupid lug it at low speeds. No oil in intake on either side of the turbo. Timing still a possibility?
Post by: mr.mindless on May 28, 2013, 09:14:45 AM
Mat's issue turned out to be a head gasket. You have access to a compression tester?
Post by: Harrison on May 28, 2013, 09:40:08 AM
Coolant is on the low mark, but I'm pretty sure that's where it's always been. I will top it off and keep an eye on that too.
I do not have a compression tester, but I could probably get one.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 28, 2013, 10:43:29 AM
Easy to either back off all pushrod slam adjusters to disable to valves to spin and check numbers AND leakdown too
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on May 28, 2013, 01:06:25 PM
We have buckets of WMO piling up around here so I finally ordered some sock filters. I'm going to progressviely filter 75 -> 25 -> 10 -> 1 micron. All but the 1 micron filters I got are washable. Going to start with a bucket or two on a fill up and see how it does. 10 gallons on a fill up would be a 28% mix, trying to decide if that would be too much to start with or not.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 28, 2013, 01:34:12 PM
My oil should be going to use soon too. New guy not yet in the club (deaf RIT student from IL with a sas Sonoma) runs WMO in his cummins. He has a PA Biodiesel centrifuge.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on May 30, 2013, 05:05:17 PM
[attachment deleted by admin]
Post by: Harrison on May 31, 2013, 09:31:55 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 31, 2013, 10:07:35 AM
Post by: etk300ex on May 31, 2013, 10:12:41 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 31, 2013, 10:17:22 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 31, 2013, 10:23:44 AM
Post by: Harrison on May 31, 2013, 10:54:06 AM
Next plan is to get a 55gal drum setup with two 32" long filters dangling in them like Nick and Chad have. I'm going to add two spouts on it: one 12" up or so to drain fuel from and one at the very bottom to drain water/shat and take to the dump. Also plan to add a sight glass from bottom to top, hoping that will give me an idea of how much shat is at the bottom, and when draining is needed.
Low tech and cheap, should work well. Going to run my super low tech system for a little longer, maybe order a couple more 1um baby filters to get as much savings as I can. Maybe build a 'on the go' filter system out of another 5gal bucket out of the little filters so I can filter on the road as I find it.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 31, 2013, 11:06:51 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 31, 2013, 12:11:49 PM
and also there is a particle distribution, 1um does not really mean 1um
Post by: TrailTamer on May 31, 2013, 12:24:51 PM
By the way I just got home with wmo i got from Mr.Mindless's place
Shitload of water and thick sludgy WMO!!! Hell, I found a oil pickup tube in one of his bucket! Lol I'm not afraid to run this WMO.
How much you usually collect and process? I read on other forum where a guy who use a 250 gal or so tote with 6" cap on top. He bought a 7" sock filter which work perfectly on the top opening. But I still suggest a centrifuge for several reasons, I think the best part is that for centrifuge type filters, you're only paying for electric to run the pump because there's no filter to buy. I understand that you want to keep it simple though.
So, I'll suggest to you that any WMO you collect, mix it with a 15% of RUG, (Ex: a 55 gallon barrel will need 8.25 gallon of RUG to 46.75 gallon of WMO to make a W85 blend) then let it to settle for a minimum of a week to allow the sludge and water to settle to the bottom (so your filters will last longer) then pump/scoop out the good W85 off the top to do your final filtering, probably won't hurt to pump through the 1um filters for a couple of passes that smike was talking about.
Blending the wmo with RUG will help majority of the sludge and water to settle to bottom, or most of it will remains suspended in the WMO.
I use HF's 1" clear water pump for my pumping needs. $35 each.
I run straight W85. Run as much as you want.
Post by: M4wdFab on May 31, 2013, 12:44:14 PM
Post by: Harrison on May 31, 2013, 01:05:08 PM
Chad and Nick have 60k each on their trucks running a mix of whatever they can get their hands on, just dumping through a single 1um sock with maybe some settling time from what I gather.
As far as centrifuge, I was surprised at the price for just the centrifuge itself but you need to be able to supply it with 85psi of oil. Do you use the HF pump for that too? The pump PAbiodiesel sells is like $330. I'd like to net some decent savings from doing this before spending that much money. Once I get a 55gal drum setup, I will probably start adding some gas to the mix.
Since I can basically Google and find any answer I could ever want, I try to avoid doing that. So I'll ask you since I know you ACTUALLY do this stuff haha. How much water is usually suspended in WMO? I'm confident all but one of my buckets never would have had contact with water. That bucket clearly has about 1" of water on the bottom that I can see. For the rest, I was going on visually looking as I poured it. For now, I was going to heed the warning of my 'water in fuel' light and be good about draining the filter (less than 1k on this filter now and I carry a spare.)
Post by: TrailTamer on May 31, 2013, 01:39:38 PM
HF 1" clear pump definitely will not work because they only make half of the required psi to run the centrifuge. I use it to run through my spin on filters and into my truck's tank or my holding barrels.
The amount of water that could be in the WMO, I'll never know until I settle it out as I often get my WMO from sketchy sources. If you know your source are dry, then it won't be much if at all but it don't always happen.
For chad and nick, that's great to know that they're getting by with minimal filtering. The beauty of those 12v that they are very tolerable with alternate fuel.
I got my barrels from this guy on CL. $8 for the barrel with lid and ring, real deal.
http://rochester.craigslist.org/for/3823223101.html
Post by: mr.mindless on May 31, 2013, 01:43:07 PM
By the way I just got home with wmo i got from Mr.Mindless's place
Shitload of water and thick sludgy WMO!!! Hell, I found a oil pickup tube in one of his bucket! Lol I'm not afraid to run this WMO.
I knew a couple of them would be bad, no idea where a pickup tube came from though, damn. Maybe engine teardown and I forgot I left it draining? Lol
Glad you have the same confidence in your centrifuge that I do :) I think Smike's oil stash is about the same quality as mine.
Going forward, mine should be in much better shape.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on May 31, 2013, 01:50:37 PM
Where is that dude with the $8 barrels? That's exaclty what I need! Might have to have somone scoop one for me, I plan to be out that way 4th of July with my truck. All the barrels here are $25-35 and are either ceramic lined (I'm guessing a no-go for drilling holes and welding bungs) and/or don't have removeable lids (not as big a deal.)
Post by: M4wdFab on May 31, 2013, 02:07:44 PM
ill take 4 if anyone gets ahold of the guy!
Post by: etk300ex on May 31, 2013, 02:36:52 PM
I also have a pretty constant supply of 4 gal water cooler jugs if anybody wants any
Post by: TrailTamer on May 31, 2013, 02:45:53 PM
Post by: Nick on June 02, 2013, 07:16:49 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 03, 2013, 08:29:53 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on June 03, 2013, 02:07:46 PM
You guys are way over thinking this just filter it and run it you will be fine. We have been doing it for many many miles and thousands of gallons in 3 vehicles with not one problem. But I know how you engineers think if you can't put it on a excel spread sheet and calculate the results you don't feel comfortable :)
I rather to be over filtered than under filtered my WMO, but the thing is, you cant filter too much!
how many rags do you carry in the trucks for shut down!
????
Post by: KingtheZJ on June 03, 2013, 02:10:20 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on June 03, 2013, 02:14:37 PM
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?96-BioDiesel-amp-Alternative-Fuels
When I google for more info on WMO, I commonly find myself in ford forums as they still have lot of good info.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 03, 2013, 02:16:59 PM
how many rags do you carry in the trucks for shut down!
????
I think he's referring to a runaway that Nick had - but that's 110% unrelated to fuels for several reasons.
- runaways are from oil into the intake generally from a failed turbo seal
- nasty fuel will fuck your pump and injectors, your turbo will never know.
- the equipment runs pump fuel, not found fuel.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 03, 2013, 02:19:00 PM
what are the best forums for WMO discussion? i want to read up on it some more.
this is the thread where I learned most of what I know:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/815276-oil-diesel.html
Post by: M4wdFab on June 03, 2013, 02:25:31 PM
with that said, my next cummins will be an old beater that runs on shop oil lol
Post by: Nick on June 03, 2013, 07:20:01 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 04, 2013, 10:31:24 AM
Nick and Chad's 7"x32" extended life filter bag McMaster part number: 5726K21 OR 5726K27
Post by: Harrison on June 06, 2013, 12:34:25 PM
This is something I started to think about today. Sounds like he's discussing using WMO in small diesel engines. I think the environmental argument is probably kind of a wash, who knows what "recycled" really means. But the potential for emissions that could cause long term health effects has me a little concerned. Particularly heavy metals everyone claims are in WMO.
Paranoid? Has anyone seen any hard emissions data from doing this?
Guess I should make clear that I realize the amount of shat dumped into the atmosphere on a daily basis from all the stuff we do as humans in an industrial world. I'm talking about being in close proximity of smoke from stuff burning that isn't meant to burn and could be harmful.
Post by: TrailTamer on June 06, 2013, 01:20:52 PM
Post by: rejeep on June 06, 2013, 02:37:43 PM
the furnace at my parents house is form the 50's and burns oil like a Kuwait oil fire
Post by: Harrison on June 06, 2013, 10:48:29 PM
whats the difference between buring oil and waste oil?
Not exactly sure. Additives in motor oil?
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2013, 10:29:47 AM
breathe deep? I'll pass. The smell is actually why I passed Brett the other day and led our way to the Pines instead of falling in at the convoy tail, but I wouldn't concern myself too much. The particulate matter that's in all pre-emissions diesel exhaust is supposedly a carcinogen already anyway.
Post by: Harrison on June 07, 2013, 11:49:05 AM
Closing in on 500 miles on this tank, gauge is reading a little under 1/4. Sweet. Dumping 15 gallons in with this fill up. This could become cheaper to run than my car, even running 50/50.
I'd like to get the timing advanced, I've read that really wakes these up, helps lower EGTs, and helps reduce smoke when running WMO.
Picking up a drum tonight hopefully, should have my fancy batch processor up and running sooner than later!
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2013, 02:18:51 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on June 07, 2013, 04:49:53 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 07, 2013, 09:27:28 PM
Seems to run smoother and quieter on WMO. I also notice using less throttle it seems and building little to no boost to hold speed or pull small hills that would have required 5-8psi before. Interesting.
15gal WMO, 13.47gal #2. Given the weaker ratio that was in the tank already, I'd say its close to 50/50 right now.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2013, 09:29:40 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on June 09, 2013, 09:30:21 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/10/epa9uzej.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/10/dy6yhygu.jpg)
Got about 10gal in it now, just up to the second spout. Slots were a design suggestion from Chad, apparently bulging plugged filter bags don't fit through a 6" hole very well. Has a lid and handle style locking ring. Opted not to have the clear tube level reader dooda. Had nightmares of degrading tubing or accidental contact with a sharp object causing a very bad thing to happen.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 10, 2013, 09:47:38 AM
Post by: Harrison on June 10, 2013, 07:16:33 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on June 10, 2013, 07:59:49 PM
I use both of my feet to drive until the engine warm up to a point it'll idle on its own. I can see how it will be a challenge on a manual truck!
I installed an engine speed control cable in my truck so I can bump up the idle speed when cold and of course it can be used as high idle for winter.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7311104_0006395974
NAPA part# BK 7311104 if the link dont work
This thread is what made me to do mine. I attached my cable to the top of the pedal, by drill a small hole then get the cable/wire to go through the pedal then loop it tightly to put a bolt in there, so that way the pedal movements from normal driving will not be affected by the cable.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance/2072-home-made-throttle-control-high-idle-set-up-nc.html
Post by: Harrison on June 10, 2013, 08:46:42 PM
Lift pump? Guess I won't know until I check. Not tonight, its pouring. And I did all that in the pouring rain!
Post by: mr.mindless on June 10, 2013, 10:23:49 PM
Highly highly suggested w the alt fuels.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Nick on June 10, 2013, 11:50:04 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 12, 2013, 02:30:09 PM
Looks pretty straight forward. Belt, fan, radiator hose, harmonic balancer, maybe washer bottle for room? Then just pop the cover off. Doesn't sound like any special tools or anything. Shouldn't be more than a couple hours (knock on wood) if everything goes OK?
Post by: mr.mindless on June 12, 2013, 04:52:39 PM
Red loctite all this lil bolts. Clean the holes!!
If any o the bolts inside are loose do the same treatment w them. It can and will leak between the block and timing case too.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on June 12, 2013, 10:37:48 PM
Hopefully running out of shit to go wrong now haha
Post by: Harrison on June 17, 2013, 12:16:53 PM
Picked up 3 fresh fuel filters on E-bay for $35 shipped to keep in the cab.
Also replaced lower oil soaked radiator boot and belt which was pretty whooped.
Knocking on wood as I type this, but I'm truly hoping I have put in the necessary time and money to have a reliable, fuel saving tow rig for a while. Since owning it's gotten:
Dipstick
Turbo
Brake lines
Fuel lines
Ball joints
Front axle u-joints
Trackbar
Pitman TRE
Gauges
Injectors
New clutch everything
Transmission Mount
5th gear nut jammed/welded
Fresh fluids in tranny/t-case
Lift pump
KDP repaired
Timing cover resealed
Radiator hose
Belt
2 oil changes
Good luck Spencer, I hope spending an extra $1800 or so on truck and travel costs pays off hahaha
Post by: Harrison on June 17, 2013, 12:19:01 PM
[attachment deleted by admin]
Post by: Harrison on June 24, 2013, 11:55:12 AM
Granted I started with 3/4 of a tank before topping it off Thursday night, but I spent $48 on fuel this weekend. That is FAWKING awesome.
50/50 on the way down, 60% on the way back. Not too bad on flat, but it has a noticable white haze pulling hills. I was hoping someone would be behind me for a while on the way back to put my mind at ease that it wasn't too noticeable or smelly. Still hoping timing helps.
When I cleaned the intercooler boots, both the of the larger t-bolt clamps on the intercooler broke so I temporarily replaced with a regular hose clamp. That sucked, must have pulled over to pop that back on at least 5 times. As Alex would say, things that really need fixing remind you they need fixing quite often. New clamps ordered.
Post by: Nick on June 24, 2013, 12:06:05 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 24, 2013, 12:27:45 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2013, 01:16:45 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on June 24, 2013, 01:21:54 PM
Post by: awl4928 on June 24, 2013, 01:38:59 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2013, 01:58:43 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 29, 2013, 06:03:15 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/3aqy4ury.jpg)
Dump Bus lives on!!
Post by: Harrison on June 29, 2013, 06:04:13 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 29, 2013, 06:37:16 PM
Back into a pole and straighten out that bumper now.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on June 29, 2013, 08:27:07 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 07, 2013, 10:15:21 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 07, 2013, 10:21:18 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on July 09, 2013, 10:18:35 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 09, 2013, 10:22:06 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on July 09, 2013, 10:32:57 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 09, 2013, 10:40:58 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 09, 2013, 10:46:34 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 09, 2013, 10:47:31 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 09, 2013, 10:54:05 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 09, 2013, 10:59:27 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 09, 2013, 03:14:33 PM
Is it possible the oil filter has some bypass in it?
Post by: mr.mindless on July 09, 2013, 04:13:25 PM
However, the filter bypass is not what regulates oil pressure. I'm going to have to stop talking here because I am uncertain of whether there actually is any true pressure regulation, or if it's just the tolerances in the engine that determine pressure.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on July 09, 2013, 04:16:02 PM
you can get shit stuck in this spring and plate. i had a piece of a wire wheel stuck in a chevy motor bipass once when i went to install a spendy oil pump, i found that is the issue, not the pump.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 09, 2013, 04:22:06 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 09, 2013, 04:22:15 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 09, 2013, 04:23:40 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on July 09, 2013, 04:25:22 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 09, 2013, 04:26:34 PM
drops to what?
Post by: Harrison on July 09, 2013, 04:36:35 PM
Hop out, little low on oil. Top off, good to go.
Top off when leaving Rausch, not very low.
2hrs or so in, same thing. This time I pay attention and load/RPMs seem to decrease pressure. Coming to a stop bumps it back to 40.
Check level, not low at all. Top off a little anyway and good to go again.
25min from home, does it again. Still doesn't seem low. Fucked off, I dump some in since it remedied it before. Fine again.
Get home, driver's side of block is glazed with oil and pumpkin is dripping probably every 5 seconds. Probably left a 4"x4" puddle saturated on cardboard along with lots of other little dribbles.
Random Googling of forums says these pressure sensors can kinda suck sometimes.
I spend some time with my sweet free HF light I stole from Chad and find the oil pressure sender has fresh looking oil around it. Think this could be great. Wipe it off clean and surrounding areas. Start up and there is a run coming down about 1" to the left of the pressure sensor. 99% sure it's the tappet cover.
$20 for mech gauge, $20 for pressure sensor. Going to plumb the gauge into that port and see what she says. People report wildy different readings from stock gauge and mechanical gauge. Kinda like stock is more like an idiot light than a true reading.
Post by: Harrison on July 11, 2013, 09:13:42 AM
Mech gauge says 20psi idle hot, 60psi cruising hot. Cluster says a hair under 40.
Not sure what caused the weirdness last weekend, but I'm going to keep driving it around and if it doesn't resurface, I'm forgetting it happened.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 11, 2013, 11:21:37 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 22, 2013, 10:15:23 AM
Post by: etk300ex on July 22, 2013, 10:37:43 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 22, 2013, 11:15:22 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 29, 2013, 11:42:48 AM
4" exhaust getting ordered this week, stock rotted in half.
Nothing like rowing gears in a loaded up 12v! Sometimes I wish I had more than 5 of them... :-X
Post by: Harrison on August 13, 2013, 12:10:09 PM
Moog ProblemSolver with larger ball joint is $63 shipped from Rockauto, closeout pricing. Would be nice to unbolt, then bolt on.
Or this looks cool and gets rave reviews for a little under $100 with a poly bushing as well:
http://www.lukeslink.com/Installations.html
Would be sweet to have a "premanent fix" that I could keep adding preload to the joint.
Thoughts?
Don't feel like spending the time or money on going 3rd gen double shear.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 13, 2013, 04:24:52 PM
Post by: Harrison on August 13, 2013, 04:26:54 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 13, 2013, 05:31:30 PM
I used Luke's link and didn't last long at all.
Post by: Harrison on August 15, 2013, 10:16:23 AM
Another question for Brett: I am getting considerably more smoke, residue in my tailpipe, and feels slightly down on power. Thinking the 15w-40 batch I made last time really needed some gas added to thin it out. Lesson learned, but I'd like to clean things out. What do you normally do in this situation? Chad said he ran his down to nothing then added 10gal #2 and 125gal worth of Stanedyne fuel treatment. Got it hot, let it sit, ran worlds better the next day. I was thinking of grabbing some Power Service and doing the same since I'm not sure where to buy Stanedyne locally. Unless you have a better suggestion on product or procedure...
Hit 4k miles running WMO blend on the way to work today.
Post by: Nick on August 15, 2013, 10:21:03 AM
Post by: Harrison on August 15, 2013, 10:53:33 AM
Post by: cracker on August 15, 2013, 10:57:15 AM
Found a place that sells it locally. I think I will do the same thing Chad did and see what happens. Sounds promising
where and how much?
Post by: Harrison on August 15, 2013, 11:02:39 AM
Post by: etk300ex on August 15, 2013, 11:04:17 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 15, 2013, 05:23:11 PM
I'm going to hope that's because you use yours in sand dunes. Hoping Luke's will do for the duty mine sees. If not, I will cave and build something I guess.
Another question for Brett: I am getting considerably more smoke, residue in my tailpipe, and feels slightly down on power. Thinking the 15w-40 batch I made last time really needed some gas added to thin it out. Lesson learned, but I'd like to clean things out. What do you normally do in this situation? Chad said he ran his down to nothing then added 10gal #2 and 125gal worth of Stanedyne fuel treatment. Got it hot, let it sit, ran worlds better the next day. I was thinking of grabbing some Power Service and doing the same since I'm not sure where to buy Stanedyne locally. Unless you have a better suggestion on product or procedure...
Hit 4k miles running WMO blend on the way to work today.
My Luke's link didn't last driving to work/school. No off roading at all.
I had this issues too. I have not found a solution yet other than get 50% or higher of D2 in the tank then she cleans right up but it'll come back when I go heavy on WMO again though.
Every time I drive through heavy rain, my smoke got significantly reduced so I'm considering water/meth injection with a big tank as I want it to start spraying at 5psi.
I'm not sure if its just in my head but since I got back home in Chicago for a bit before the school start again, I drive like I stole my truck as its how things is around here especially everyone seem to think they need to cut me off, my smoke became way less... Maybe drive with heavy right foot will make a difference?
On the power thing, the power came back instantly when go back to D2. That's all I know.
The inside of the tailpipe on my truck have good amount of build up and some got on my rear bumper.
I ran a ton of hydraulic fluid, diesel oil and bunch of unknown WMO without any serious issues other than smoke and cold start/idle.
Post by: Harrison on August 26, 2013, 11:36:01 AM
Bought a thing similar to Luke's, same price but it's threaded and weld-on, and uses a metal cup instead of nylon. Almost turns it into an adjustable threaded joint kinda thing. We'll see.
I changed the fuel filter, didn't make much difference. This morning, I romped on it the entire way to work. It did seem to help a little. Darker smoke, smoother idle. I think I'm still going to run this down to nothing and try running a bottle of Stanedyne with 5-10gal of D2 per Chad's suggestion.
Mollie and Reid bought a house with comparable working space to our current place, and are all for having a 250gal storage for WMO onsite. Once we're settled, I will probably follow suit with you and Spencer and start just running W85.
Planning to rebuild my stock turbo soon and incorporate some boost control back into things. I have never tried to see how high it will go, but I can do 40 without trying to hard. Pry limit to 30-35.
Opinions: are 37s too tall? Was thinking about spending $125/tire or whatever from Trailworthy for four good OZs. Calculator says with 4.10s, I'll still be a little shallower than Spencer with 285s and 3.55s. A hair over 1900 cruising at 70. If Chad can get the Vision hookup, that would be sweet. But no news on that so far.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 26, 2013, 11:43:26 AM
Not really looking to sell my 19.5 SRWs if they dont go for extra $$ with the dodge i will keep them for trailer wheels for an 8 lug thing
Post by: Harrison on August 26, 2013, 11:48:30 AM
You said they came off a truck that drove on railways or something?
Post by: M4wdFab on August 26, 2013, 11:56:00 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on August 26, 2013, 11:57:45 AM
Post by: KingtheZJ on August 26, 2013, 12:58:17 PM
A hair over 1900 cruising at 70.
i'm pretty sure im right at 2k @ 70. let me check again. imo, its alllllmost a little shallow for not lugging it in 6th
Post by: Harrison on August 26, 2013, 01:01:37 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 26, 2013, 01:07:03 PM
Post by: Nick on August 26, 2013, 01:15:39 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on August 26, 2013, 02:15:21 PM
3.55s and had same 285s spencer has
i thought at 70 i was more close to 1900
which is why i had towing at 65-68 with most people. its just annoying. id rather tow at 58-60 in 5th
Post by: Harrison on August 26, 2013, 03:17:27 PM
I like the way it feels around 58-60, right around 2000
Post by: Harrison on August 26, 2013, 04:57:34 PM
http://syracuse.craigslist.org/pts/4015063625.html
Might lowball and see what happens. Wheels are cheap.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 26, 2013, 08:53:45 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 27, 2013, 09:19:46 AM
Which rims you're thinking about to get? lift or trim to fit?
Post by: Harrison on August 27, 2013, 10:25:36 AM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/27/gu3enazy.jpg)
Reid's 37s... Looks awesome
It was different, but I liked how I could use the torque through all the gears. Would pry be a lot different towing. It was raining and phone speedo sucks, but 70 seemed like a little over 2k.
Chad says they are too much for towing with 4.10s. All 35" options for 16s or even 17s are almost all D range and should be put on wider rims. 19.5s are going to cost $1400ish between rims and tires... That just seems like too much for a $4k hawg. The $800 37s seemed perfect haha
If I go 16.5", pry just get steelies like those. Priced them $300 shipped from Summit.
Post by: Nick on August 27, 2013, 10:43:26 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 27, 2013, 10:53:16 AM
With a mildly turned up 12v I can't believe that towing performance would suffer that much - especially with a single tow. On the other hand you're asking a LOT more of the brakes.
Post by: Nick on August 27, 2013, 02:24:35 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 27, 2013, 02:31:44 PM
On the other hand, higher RPMs make that POS live a happier life.
Post by: TrailTamer on August 27, 2013, 03:55:49 PM
Basically soon as the truck get hooked to a trailer with the jeep, the wheels' "overloaded".
In the pic, do they rub? Look like no lift. What wheels are those in the pic?
I did some searching on those military 37's and I found that some said they mostly measured out to be 35"-36" tall. So if that's the case, that'll help with the fitment and towing power over true 37" tall tires.
I might gonna try the stock double beadlocks H1 rims with spacers if I still can't find rims I want with good load rating and proper backspacking.
Post by: Harrison on August 27, 2013, 07:48:06 PM
4th
2050 at 50
2250 at 55
5th
1700 at 55
1800 at 60
2100 at 70
55-60 could be a little tough, but not awful I don't think.
These 37s measure 34.5" with weight on them. Same as my Creepies though which run pretty true to size (but with a 4.0 on them, not a Cummins.) If militaries run the same, could potentially be a good combo.
Post by: Harrison on August 27, 2013, 07:49:10 PM
Post by: Harrison on September 02, 2013, 08:32:47 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/03/meba9uta.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/03/6y7u5yme.jpg)
Picked these up. 4 on rims and a rimless spare for $450. Hard to pass up. Smooth on the highway, need some trimming ASAP.
Post by: etk300ex on September 02, 2013, 09:09:13 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 02, 2013, 10:46:51 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on September 03, 2013, 09:21:43 AM
you're asking a LOT more of the brakes.
This is an issue, though. That knuckle swap gone, Mike? Need to look into that.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2013, 11:55:07 AM
easiest to just get a whole axle but you can save a little coin piecing together, some D50 TTB stuff crosses over. I think the knuckles differ but the rest is the same? I can't remember for certain. Read this (long) thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/dodge/874442-dodge-ram-2500-4x4-dana-60-hub-removal-converison-ford-knuckles.html
Post by: M4wdFab on September 03, 2013, 12:13:29 PM
Post by: Harrison on September 03, 2013, 01:57:29 PM
Disc swap the rear? Easy and simple, but no e-brake. Read about swapping wheel cylinders for GM 14b ones, people rave about it. Cheap, meh.
I know my drums are out of adjustment, might start there. Not sure how I feel about towing with the 37s as things are right now.
Post by: TrailTamer on September 03, 2013, 02:05:35 PM
I did the math and found that dodge caliper's piston is bigger than ford's dual pistons. However I like ford's bolt-on calipers way better and it use 13" rotors.
DO NOT PUT GM WHEEL CYLINDER IN YOUR DODGE 2500! I regret doing it! Stick with stock dodge 2500's 15/16" bore, you may can get away using dodge 3500's 1-1/16" bore. The GM ones are 1-3/16". Huge jump over the stock 15/16" ones your truck have right now.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2013, 02:06:36 PM
I'd do both. I never got to the GM wheel cyl's.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: KingtheZJ on September 03, 2013, 02:07:59 PM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1414106-rear-brakes-lock-up-moderate-braking-severe-shaking.html
Post by: TrailTamer on September 03, 2013, 02:18:17 PM
Post by: Harrison on September 03, 2013, 02:21:53 PM
Being stick and therefore D80 rear, are 3500 wheel cylinders still larger than what I currently have?
Around town it seems "OK". Had to do a somewhat quick stop for construction cruising at 70 this morning, distance was not unreasonable but I was stomping the pedal and eyeing the shoulder until I finally did stop... was unnerving
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2013, 03:08:11 PM
Brett, I haven't read that thread yet but I do have a combo valve still from my truck. And a master. Only the hydroboost booster is gone. I had RWAL. Not sure if that'll help you but it sounds to me like you have brakes out of adjustment (too tight) and/or something holding residual pressure in the back system.
Post by: TrailTamer on September 03, 2013, 03:26:58 PM
No glazing anywhere on shoes.
It stops perfectly now. I put in the stock 15/16" bore wheel cylinders and fixed the run out on the hub (which amplified the hopping from the wear pattern in the shoes & drums) then I replaced the shoes and drums.
GM wheel cylinders was way too much because they'll lock up the rear end without too much effort, basically made the front end to work less. It was dangerous when I need to make a panic stop because the rear end will be sliding all over the place.
I googled on this (to find out wtf going on on my truck) and found that its common for this to happen with the bigger wheel cylinders. Many said their fix was to back off the adjustment but that's not the right way to fix them so I put in the smaller wheel cylinders.
[attachment deleted by admin]
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2013, 03:33:02 PM
I too have heard rave reviews on the GM "upgrade" - good to know that it's not for everyone and may in fact be harmful especially in a 2500.
Post by: Harrison on September 03, 2013, 03:38:43 PM
Post by: Harrison on September 03, 2013, 04:02:55 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2013, 04:12:01 PM
Post by: Harrison on September 03, 2013, 10:05:45 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/04/u9ehuhe5.jpg)
I could never be a body man, that sucked. Will serve its purpose though, it would have been rubbing and unable to turn any further before. Pics make it look better than it really is. White spray bomb and done.
Was hoping to get both sides done in the time it took to finish one...
Post by: etk300ex on September 03, 2013, 10:32:16 PM
Pics make it look better than it really is.
never heard that before hahaha
Post by: Harrison on September 11, 2013, 11:52:45 AM
What would be the max RPM you'd feel comfortable pulling a long grade with? Hoping I can leave it in 5th and let it do work to hold speed at 2000, but if I need to drop a hole and spend 2-3 miles at 2500 to hold 65mph, is that an issue? Being the industrial engine it is, I would think not.
Post by: Wingman on September 11, 2013, 11:57:04 AM
Chadley once told me that 3000 shouldn't be a problem...
Post by: TrailTamer on September 11, 2013, 12:00:42 PM
I did that a couple of times with mine. I had to turn off O/D (auto) to keep the smoke and egt in check when towing uphill on shitty batch of wmo.
Post by: KingtheZJ on September 11, 2013, 12:16:50 PM
i was keeping mine under 2300 always. running it up would help my EGT and keep boost down slightly. probably best with the blowby thats starting
Post by: etk300ex on September 11, 2013, 12:20:51 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on September 11, 2013, 12:41:21 PM
/hijack
Post by: Harrison on September 11, 2013, 12:44:17 PM
/hijack
Not at all. Let's expand this discussion out to delivery valves and injector HP ratings as well.
Post by: TrailTamer on September 11, 2013, 01:17:57 PM
If you want, leave out the smallest spring from the kit to make it a 3kgsk, so that way you have the spring needed to make it a 4kgsk later.
Since yours' trans is manual, so the stronger valve springs will be good idea to prevent valve floating when overrevved or if running an exhaust brake.
On the auto, the trans (when the shifter is in "D", that is) will always shift before ~3000 rpm so the valve springs are not a huge concern for auto guys (like me).
On my truck, I need bigger turbo even with the original stock 180hp injectors. I did the AFC spring kit from TST, along with rack travel mod, 16* timing advance, 2095 Mack plug, and of course no fuel plate, the truck will hit ~48-50 psi of boost easily and unregisterable high egt to boot. Currently running a custom grinded stock fuel plate close to #100 profile to keep thee egt and boost in check (~1400*F, ~35psi max).
I want more power but I want to do some more magic to my auto trans first. I really think there's some performance can be made with better converter and some other stuff.
At bare minimum I want the trans to have billet 300m input shaft and triple disk converter installed then I'll like to put a s475 under the hx35 or so. My goal is to have a cool running 500-600 hp or so. Yeah... Down the road...
Post by: mr.mindless on September 11, 2013, 01:59:45 PM
Chadley is a fan of huge DVs and letting the injectors catch up quicker. I don't know enough about DVs to have a real opinion but it makes sense to me. I think he's told me he would put full cuts on just about anything.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on September 16, 2013, 11:31:21 AM
I was doing 60-62mph peaking couple of the long hills. On the way back, I realized that this seems to be because at the throttle position I would need to hold 70, I am spooling to 30+psi with what feels like minimal increase in power beyond that. Also, I seem to blow the boot at the intercooler intake at long pulls of 30psi, so I try to avoid doing that. Having that in my head may have also contributed to my lack of sufficient throttle useage.
Interwebs say WH1C and HX35 are basically interchangeable. Might look for charts on each to compare, but I'm leaning towards rebuilding my WH1C vs Mike's HX35.
Will bigger turbo back on help keep intake pressure lower, but cooler?
Why am I blowing that boot consistently, despite having cleaned ALL oil from that area and cranking the shit out of the clamp?
I hate the jinx myself, but this truck is rapidly approaching the "I would change nothing" asymptote
Post by: M4wdFab on September 16, 2013, 11:42:23 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 16, 2013, 12:47:58 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on September 16, 2013, 12:51:24 PM
Those are gonna work better than these (what I have now)?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5312k15/=oj8l8r
Worth the money to get a silicone boot/clamp kit? If the boot isn't tearing, how is silicone better?
Post by: M4wdFab on September 16, 2013, 01:01:06 PM
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-g31280
Those are gonna work better than these (what I have now)?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#5312k15/=oj8l8r
Worth the money to get a silicone boot/clamp kit? If the boot isn't tearing, how is silicone better?
my bad, probably not i wasn't remembering they arnt just screw type hose clamps that suck. those look HD not sure why they are coming off.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 16, 2013, 01:04:02 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 16, 2013, 01:05:57 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on September 16, 2013, 01:06:25 PM
Post by: etk300ex on September 16, 2013, 01:29:30 PM
Post by: Harrison on October 01, 2013, 02:37:47 PM
Do I need one of these or can I tap the banjo bolt on the clean side of the filter for 1/8 npt? I don't care if the reading is jumpy.
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BF-CBS010
Lost about 3/4" out of the coolant res on the last Rausch round trip.
Installed breather oil cap back on, oil leak has been reduced by 2/3.
Dan came over the other day and noticed oily goop around the #1 exhaust gasket. Said this is likely a sign of blowby. Need to do a compression test. Same cylinder that yields almost no difference when cracking the injector line, and same cylinder with issues in VA. We're both afraid 7hrs of fuel dumping on the return trip from VA may have done some damage.
Considering replacing the leaky, coolant eating, possibly damaged pistoned motor with something less used that lived a stockish life before me. Chad says not to give up until I try putting a headgasket in it. I guess that's just a weekend and a couple bucks anyway, but weekends aren't as cheap to me as they once were. Chad also suggested retorquing head bolts, something he said has worked for him in the past.
It still runs respectably right now. I scored a cheap rebuilt HX35 and got some silicone boots and a mechanical boost controller. Plan to install and keep running it, but starting to look down the road.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 01, 2013, 03:59:32 PM
I still have a complete mech gauge garbage picked from delphi. you can drill and tap the 14mm bolt that feeds into the p7100. the 12mm bolts aren't big enough to drill and tap 1/8" npt
the hammer will likely kill a gauge w/o a needle valve.
Post by: TrailTamer on October 01, 2013, 04:02:14 PM
Post by: Harrison on October 01, 2013, 04:12:42 PM
HG issue is assumed from over-boosting, not anything else. Some quick shopping says finding a motor under $1k will be tough. Would be annoying to pull the head and find a motor not worth putting a head back on, then scrambling to find a deal on a motor.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 01, 2013, 04:34:00 PM
I'm quite certain the bleeder in the 12mm filter output banjo bolt is not 1/8" NPT. I think it's a 6mm nontapered thread.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 01, 2013, 04:36:47 PM
reportedly.
I bet an HD gauge would be fine, smike would probably know better whether gauges can handle 10+psi swings at 40psi peaks at 2500*6/second
Post by: TrailTamer on October 01, 2013, 04:38:33 PM
(Yes I know there's some leak, it's from the plastic tubing)
Post by: mr.mindless on October 01, 2013, 05:05:23 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on October 23, 2013, 09:36:08 PM
HX35 and silicone boots installed. Also installed ball and spring type boost controller in hopes of limiting boost to 35lbs. Not sure it's gonna work, but haven't spent enough time tuning it in to decide for sure. On a positive note, hills at 70 with a load seem to be no thing now.
Still leaks. Valve covers, oil drain (need to install valve from Mike this weekend) and tappet cover. First two are easy, tappet cover... Not so much. Installed a diaper to avoid ruining new driveway. Debating if I really feel like pulling everything off the driver's side of the engine to fix it. Either way, timing is next on the "upgrade" list. After that, delivery valves, injectors, and that's about it.
In the last 250 miles, I seem to have not lost much coolant. Hoping the last Rausch trip was a fluke and I can forget about that. Time will tell. For now, gonna continue to enjoy rowing gears and burning free fuel.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 23, 2013, 09:51:17 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on November 16, 2013, 11:18:22 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on November 16, 2013, 11:36:49 AM
Post by: rejeep on November 16, 2013, 01:45:46 PM
Post by: Harrison on November 16, 2013, 02:06:41 PM
Post by: Nick on November 16, 2013, 02:25:45 PM
Post by: Wingman on November 16, 2013, 04:51:19 PM
Got to pee don't you?
My first thought!
Post by: mr.mindless on November 16, 2013, 06:00:15 PM
~1800 mile range was SWEET. 6-800 is decent though.
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
Post by: Harrison on December 02, 2013, 09:11:14 AM
When removing the #1 delivery valve, we found a broken spacer washer thingy underneath it. Reinstalled for the trip home (ran the same) but hoping that may contribute to some of the #1 weirdness it's had for a while.
Also got all new fuel and brake lines Saturday at Chad's house. :-X
This will totally jinx it all, but it is running as well as it has since I have owned it right now. Governer springs would improve drivability some. Beyond that, I see delivery valves and injectors and not much else.
Post by: Nick on December 02, 2013, 09:36:54 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 02, 2013, 09:51:25 AM
Post by: Harrison on December 02, 2013, 04:18:10 PM
Post by: Harrison on December 10, 2013, 12:10:21 PM
Reid bought a 96 3500 down in FL. 4x4 5spd. Took it for a rip last night, wow. Either mine is lacking or that 215 pump really does make a huge difference. I reliaze mine is on 37s and his is on 33s, but still. It seemed to require noticeably less throttle at all speeds than I remember mine needing on 32s. It also revs to 3k and mine stops at 2750. Not sure if his has had a GSK installed or not. Hoping GSK and DVs will get me close to where his is.
Post by: mr.mindless on December 10, 2013, 12:12:24 PM
Post by: Harrison on December 10, 2013, 12:22:57 PM
Will 191 delivery valves make for a good towrig/DD? As opposed to a bombed out coal roller. Chad said buy whatever I can get a deal on as stock sucks, 191s seem to go for $170-200.
Post by: mr.mindless on December 10, 2013, 12:26:59 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 10, 2013, 03:53:46 PM
Post by: Harrison on December 10, 2013, 04:02:17 PM
Chad spent a decent amount of time riding around in it a couple weeks ago and felt it was pretty consistent with what he would expect from a low HP pump truck on 37s.
Post by: Harrison on December 17, 2013, 07:38:46 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on December 18, 2013, 08:34:09 AM
Refueling at a truck stop AKA 45 minutes of time waiting inline for billybob to stop flirting w the cashier and move his truck forward.
I used to tell my passengers on long road trips like Atlanta or Daytona. .. "get it out now. Its camel time"
Post by: JEEPWERX on December 18, 2013, 08:35:57 AM
What specifically makes an aux tank legal or not
Post by: jaysenodell on December 18, 2013, 09:04:49 AM
I was actually thinking about putting one of those toolbox transfer tank combos in my truck.How did Granny say it? "It aint wrong 'till someone catches you doin' it." That was her justification for everything.
What specifically makes an aux tank legal or not
Post by: mr.mindless on December 18, 2013, 09:21:22 AM
I think some of the transflow stuff is not "not to be tied in" and is actually meant to be set up the way I did mine.
Post by: Harrison on December 18, 2013, 11:17:31 AM
I was going to go your route until I found the tank I have with a working pump on it for $100. Too easy to not just use it as is.
Post by: mr.mindless on December 18, 2013, 11:57:04 AM
Post by: JEEPWERX on December 18, 2013, 01:02:29 PM
FML
Post by: M4wdFab on December 18, 2013, 01:06:37 PM
Post by: Nick on December 18, 2013, 01:14:11 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on December 18, 2013, 01:22:14 PM
if you are in a convoy with 3 trucks, have any women, any children, or any dogs- like Erik said its a 45min cluster
Post by: Wingman on December 18, 2013, 01:27:59 PM
if you are a single guy no.
if you are in a convoy with 3 trucks, have any women, any children, or any dogs- like Erik said its a 45min cluster
So true!
Post by: M4wdFab on December 18, 2013, 02:08:03 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 18, 2013, 03:13:09 PM
Is it that bad of a thing to just stop once every 300 miles and spend 5 min just pumping into your tankYes it's terrible!
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
Post by: SlvrJK on December 18, 2013, 04:57:56 PM
or a Garafalo ::)
Lmao
Post by: etk300ex on December 18, 2013, 06:53:54 PM
Post by: Harrison on December 23, 2013, 09:45:54 AM
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2276?seid=srese1&gclid=CLu3uc3JxrsCFWMV7Aod4mkApw
Post by: mr.mindless on December 23, 2013, 10:01:50 AM
I believe 12x1.5 is correct, about 75% certain. check someone like DAP, they sell what you're looking for.
Post by: Harrison on December 23, 2013, 10:06:05 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 23, 2013, 12:51:15 PM
Post by: Harrison on December 25, 2013, 10:15:29 AM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/25/yre6a8en.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on December 26, 2013, 09:20:46 AM
Post by: Harrison on December 26, 2013, 10:57:55 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on December 26, 2013, 11:03:58 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 26, 2013, 12:46:35 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 01, 2014, 08:46:17 PM
Anyone have a lead on a cheap long block? Fuck.
Post by: M4wdFab on January 01, 2014, 08:47:10 PM
fuck
Post by: mr.mindless on January 01, 2014, 08:59:36 PM
Could throw a HG at it, but that seems silly to do without rings and checking bearings and a head job with it's existing blowby issues.
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
Post by: Harrison on January 01, 2014, 09:22:13 PM
Also noticed the oil leak was much worse, and slows down a lot when removing the oil cap.
Feeling very done with this motor.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/duqezatu.jpg)
Post by: rejeep on January 01, 2014, 09:34:58 PM
Post by: Ryan on January 01, 2014, 09:49:24 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 01, 2014, 09:56:25 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on January 01, 2014, 09:59:55 PM
Post by: Ryan on January 01, 2014, 10:03:15 PM
$4000!
That makes it worse........
Post by: mr.mindless on January 01, 2014, 10:06:41 PM
Also noticed the oil leak was much worse, and slows down a lot when removing the oil cap.
Boooo for blowby!
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
Post by: Harrison on January 01, 2014, 10:08:26 PM
$4000!
That makes it worse........
I know. The problem I found in looking was that you need to spend at least $8000 to get something nice. Spencer's truck for $5k got him high miles and time bomb trans, my roommate just bought a 96 for $6000 with over 350k with non-functioning 4wd and a shot clutch. We all looked for 3+ months, either gotta gamble on cheap or double your price range... :-\
Post by: Harrison on January 01, 2014, 10:12:55 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 01, 2014, 11:14:25 PM
Car-Part has a few over 200k miles missing turbos for $1000-1600 :-\
Post by: Harrison on January 02, 2014, 11:01:19 AM
Before I convince myself that's the best path to take, is this motor worth rebuilding? Rings and gaskets like Mike said? Would that fix the blowby? Or is that more likely from piston/bore wear? I can't see spending much more than $1500 putting a motor back in this thing, and $1k or less would be ideal.
Post by: M4wdFab on January 02, 2014, 11:25:33 AM
never - ever - rebuild a motor
Post by: rejeep on January 02, 2014, 11:38:19 AM
rebuilding motors is for the birds.
never - ever - rebuild a motor
this...
unless its something rare or you have an emotional attachment
Post by: matt on January 02, 2014, 12:24:31 PM
I did my long block for about 1500 for the 12 gen. I know everything is tight on it too. Now the clutch is slipping though. Time for a 13.25 southbend.
Got all my parts from this place. Great to deal with. http://www.mumaudiesel.com/
rebuilding motors is for the birds.
never - ever - rebuild a motor
this...
unless its something rare or you have an emotional attachment
Post by: Harrison on January 02, 2014, 12:24:54 PM
$1k, looks good to me.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/eby9uvyz.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/henuryna.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/agy2e6yv.jpg)
Post by: KingtheZJ on January 02, 2014, 12:32:37 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 02, 2014, 12:37:12 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on January 02, 2014, 12:43:33 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 02, 2014, 02:41:00 PM
Thoughts? $5 more than normal head bolts. Planning to just go with a Felpro head gasket.
Post by: KingtheZJ on January 02, 2014, 02:45:55 PM
i'd run em.
Post by: M4wdFab on January 02, 2014, 02:47:11 PM
Post by: etk300ex on January 02, 2014, 02:52:34 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 04, 2014, 07:51:35 AM
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
Post by: Harrison on January 05, 2014, 11:34:25 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 06, 2014, 09:32:07 AM
Post by: Wingman on January 06, 2014, 09:39:00 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 06, 2014, 09:53:09 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on January 06, 2014, 10:03:34 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 06, 2014, 10:08:26 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 06, 2014, 10:40:27 AM
I have an opportunity to buy the following for $1500:
97 4x4 auto single cab
291k
Pretty rusty
P-pump, vac/steering pump, timing cover swapped onto a 1st gen
Good mud tires on stock wheels
Driveshafts and t-case gone
Motor supposedly rebuilt, original owner who would know when and other details has passed. Motor has zero oil on it, so seems plausible.
Comes with a 180hp p-pump that the #6 barrel sticks when hot.
I got an offer for my motor for $800 complete.
I plan to put $300 worth of gaskets and head bolts on any motor before it goes in.
Yard motor that I can give someone hell if it doesn't run good? Or risk the unknown but good looking motor and potentially be into the whol ordeal for <$500 after scrap/partout.
Bahhh!!!
Post by: Nick on January 06, 2014, 10:43:37 AM
Post by: Wingman on January 06, 2014, 10:45:56 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 06, 2014, 11:01:59 AM
The yard motor is 180hp being auto, and the parts truck also has a 180hp pump. I think I'd be plenty happy with either my pump (175hp) or the 180hp pump with governer springs and delivery valves (which I both have.)
Potential buyer for my motor is not interested if I pull any parts off it.
Post by: rejeep on January 06, 2014, 11:38:43 AM
you did when you bought a $4K truck.. why stop now...
Post by: Harrison on January 06, 2014, 01:09:43 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 11, 2014, 08:50:56 PM
$1200 w/o questionable p-pump
Brand new Pepboys 265 mud terrains on mint stock wheels
Rust free hood, bed, fenders
Auto with cherry red fluid
HX35
Hydroboost
3.55 axles, new u/ball joints on front axle, new looking TRE's
Extra intercooler, radiator, and lots of other stuff. Only need to use p-pump and timing cover from my motor.
So should have plenty of opportunity to make my money back! So far, so good!! Remains going to scrap Monday morning.
Post by: KingtheZJ on January 11, 2014, 10:45:10 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 12, 2014, 09:20:41 AM
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
Post by: Harrison on January 14, 2014, 09:12:40 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on January 14, 2014, 09:16:19 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 14, 2014, 09:23:36 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 14, 2014, 09:46:01 AM
I suppse OE is the smarter thing to do on a job that would suck so much to repeat.
Post by: matt on January 14, 2014, 12:00:30 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 14, 2014, 09:37:52 PM
Lika that??
Post by: Harrison on January 20, 2014, 12:07:07 PM
Price Part
$1,200 Truck
$268 Cummins head gasket kit
$135 Head bolts
-$115 Tube steps, mirror, dash
-$85 Driver fender, taillight plug
-$300 Transmission
-$275 Scrap
-$135 HX35
-$90 HY35
-$220 Intake horn, alt, AC comp, alt bracket, stat housing
$383 Total invested
Stuff moved FAST. Still have brand new mud tires, axles, hood, rad, intercooler, tailgate and lots of other misc stuff to sell as well. Have some odds and ends left to buy, but I am expecting to actually make money on everything (knock on wood.)
Post by: matt on January 20, 2014, 12:14:10 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/15/huhegy3a.jpg)
Lika that??
Nope, I need an earlier one where the pipe mounts directly to the turbo without the ball socket. thanks anyways.
Post by: M4wdFab on January 21, 2014, 12:03:34 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 25, 2014, 11:36:21 PM
Got my timing case on the new motor. Cam gear is also on, that took some creativity without removing the cam, but it's done. Head gasket tomorrow, with weeknight tinkering it should be ready for install on the first weather permitting weekend.
I miss driving this thing!
Post by: TrailTamer on January 27, 2014, 10:21:06 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 27, 2014, 11:04:32 PM
Up to date listing with what's left
Post by: Harrison on February 08, 2014, 08:59:19 PM
Was really good to hear Cummins motor sounds coming from this thing. :)
Post by: mr.mindless on February 08, 2014, 09:55:46 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 16, 2014, 03:46:44 PM
Steering was loosey goosey, I adjusted the over center on the box 1/4 turn and tightened up the preload on my trackbar joint thingy. Again, like a new truck.
Been getting a slight grinding noise I can hear from the rearish at low road speed since towing my jeep home. Unbolted a rear axle shaft with the wheel off the ground and I can wiggle the top of the tire back and forth 1/4" or so. Gonna just go ahead and replace all the rear hub bearings. Gonna pull the cover and make sure all is kosher in there as well.
Smike/Brett, I'm assuming one of you procured dana 80 hub bearings? Got part numbers?
Post by: TrailTamer on March 16, 2014, 03:50:58 PM
And, I hate Dodge's nylon locking spindle nuts with wedge. I suggest to remove and promptly throw it in the trash and use something else, like 14b spindle nut stuff.
Post by: Harrison on May 15, 2014, 09:44:37 AM
Timing tool is on it's way, going to shoot for 16*. That will probably conclude my power mods to this truck! Maybe injectors? Not sure I even feel the need.
Post by: Harrison on May 17, 2014, 09:08:40 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 02, 2014, 10:40:09 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 02, 2014, 12:04:33 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on June 02, 2014, 12:06:34 PM
Just be sure to put them on dry, no oil mess.
And FYI I had to replace mine only because the boot rubbed the inner fender well.
Post by: Harrison on June 02, 2014, 12:06:43 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 02, 2014, 12:40:41 PM
silicone boots with spring clamps is the hot ticket. I never had an issue on DB with them, even after I lost a clamp and had to just use a screw type hose clamp.
like these guys (random application, good google hit to show the camps)
http://www.realtruck.com/bd-diesel-performance-intake-hoses-clamps/?productid=446394&utm_campaign=product_ads&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjkKEQjwwbCcBRCxvJn9-N6dorwBEiQAVriOikMp2tdQhJb4vhduCgwLOnOnWBOw7Uce64ol3QEb-Bbw_wcB
Post by: Harrison on July 06, 2014, 08:40:01 PM
Seems to be gradually revving slower and slower above 2200 or so. Fuel pressure is solid, hoping maybe just something stupid like clogged air filter. Will try that. EGTs seem to climb with higher rpms? 4th to 5th seems to lower EGTs... seems counter-intuitive.
Has a weird pulsating leaking sound that almost sounds like a boost leak? Hard to track down and does not do it unless letting off from a heavy load. Burnt fuel smell is accompanied with this symptom, but no large wet spots found anywhere. Series of small dark drip spots under truck, hard to identify whether fuel or oil... suspecting fuel. Will tighten all hose clamp connections I guess.
If newer Cummins trucks weren't expensive to buy, maintain, and put fuel in... I might consider upgrading. I need to fix all these little things so I can stand to sit in this thing for 5 hours.
Post by: TrailTamer on July 06, 2014, 10:09:23 PM
with my 295/70R17 (~33" tall) and 3.55, I turn IIRC just under 1750 rpm at 70 mph, basically lugging a bit when towing heavy or in any high load situation Its a no go when in the mountain, but when I drop it down to 3rd (direct), like your's in 4th, I pretty much can haul ass over the mountain but at a lower speed, ranging 50-60 mph (I don't like to really rev the engine).
What's your boost at higher rpm when towing? I was experiencing the egt than's my liking and it was solved by cranked the starwheel tighter to stop it from running a tad rich. the starwheel control the fueling from ~10psi to max boost, so if you was towing and in that range, the starwheel is important and will affect the engine's performance.
Although, smaller tires will help nonetheless. I'd image myself running the 37's for DD/local use but swap on the small, gay tires for the long haul if i have 4.10.
Post by: Harrison on July 06, 2014, 10:17:44 PM
2100 at 70 really is ideal, though RPMs much lower than that on hills make me cringe a little knowing that 5th won't take much abuse. 1700 is the absolute lowest mine will do anything with a decent grade.
I have no interest in switching tires for different trips, just going to let it wind out at 65-70 and deal with it.
Post by: TrailTamer on July 06, 2014, 10:25:49 PM
Matter of fact, I just discovered my boost leak today! I have BAD leak at the elbow where it mates to the turbo's outlet. I even RTV it with no improvement, and will give it another look tomorrow. I'll be pissed if it runs awesome after the boost leaks fixed after my trip, but at the same page, I'll be glad that my truck will have more to offer when it's fixed. The reason I finally take my time to check for any boost leak as no matter what, I had shitty preboost spooling, no smoke or smoky, it prespools poorly, but once it spools, it fine.
Post by: TrailTamer on July 06, 2014, 10:26:32 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 06, 2014, 10:31:53 PM
5th gear nut has a 2nd nut jammed to it and the two nuts are welded together. Nick and Mike have both sheared teeth off of 5th after fixing the nut, though they both regularly gross much more weight than I do 1-2 times a month. Still always in the back of my mind.
Post by: TrailTamer on July 06, 2014, 10:44:42 PM
when my truck goes into overdrive, it does the opposite, my egt usually go up. if i downshift (with no throttle input change) the egt drops. although, i think my boost leak may contribute to this more than anything as when it runs at more rpm, the turbo can more easily keep up with the leak rather than at lower rpm.
swap in an auto and tow worry-free in any gears! (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/thefinger.gif)
Post by: Nick on July 06, 2014, 10:47:43 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 07, 2014, 07:57:43 AM
Over 32-33, the hx35 will build heat fast. It's too small. That may be why you see what you do Irish boost...
Post by: M4wdFab on July 07, 2014, 09:22:52 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 07, 2014, 09:57:22 AM
One text to a friend and the 37s are sold for the $500 I bought them for... deciding whether I should look for quality used or throw a couple extra hundred on there and get something from Treadwright.
Post by: Wingman on July 07, 2014, 10:19:07 AM
Post by: jacel86 on July 07, 2014, 10:46:19 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 07, 2014, 11:02:41 AM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/07/tu8uny3a.jpg)
Jared... My guess would be 3.73 or 4.10 but I will also admit you l have a lot more power.
Post by: etk300ex on July 07, 2014, 11:17:03 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 07, 2014, 01:27:21 PM
Mark, you read some stuff on a reputable site that scared you off enough to not buy them again??
Post by: Wingman on July 07, 2014, 01:32:54 PM
Post by: jacel86 on July 07, 2014, 07:59:42 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 19, 2014, 05:50:13 PM
Bled, and bled, and bled. Cannot get pedal to come up hard and stomping the pedal at speed results in a quick chirp of the front tires as the pedal goes the floor. Feels spongy. Assumed master cylinder, got a new one. Bled, and bled, and bled. No difference. According to part numbers, I bought 8800gvw master and calipers and my truck says 8800gvw inside the door. Drums are adjusted correctly.
If I clamp the hoses with vice grips right before they go into the calipers and turn the truck on and hit the pedal, it comes up nice and firm like it should. Based on this, seems to me that one or both calipers are causing the issue... And not the hoses or master cylinder or anything else. But how? There is no leak I can see anywhere. I can watch the caliper move on the sliders and they can easily be moved by hand in and out when taken off the knuckle.
I am just flat out of ideas. Should I just go try another pair of calipers? I'd really like to understand what the problem is here...
Post by: mr.mindless on July 19, 2014, 08:34:53 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Wingman on July 19, 2014, 08:42:14 PM
http://www.fingerlakes4x4.org/modules/smf/index.php?topic=3272.0
Post by: Harrison on July 19, 2014, 09:47:57 PM
Push the little button(a) on the crossover valve and on the abs pump if equipped
Tapatalking in traffic
Has rear abs... What little button?
Post by: mr.mindless on July 19, 2014, 10:04:32 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 01:33:55 PM
Ready to burn it.
Post by: TrailTamer on July 20, 2014, 01:49:38 PM
How are you bleeding it?
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 01:53:22 PM
Have tried a few techniques, none of which have gotten any air out of the system, only a strong stream of clear fluid.
Helper one pump and hold, momentarily loosen bleeder, repeat.
Helped 3 pump and hold, same as above
Attach clear hose to bleeder and other end in fluid bottle. Pump fluid continuously through.
Gravity bleed
Post by: TrailTamer on July 20, 2014, 02:36:00 PM
Try tapping on the caliper or so to make the bubbles to move up top to be bled out
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 02:36:38 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 03:04:28 PM
If I clamp the hoses with vice grips right before they go into the calipers and turn the truck on and hit the pedal, it comes up nice and firm like it should.
I keep coming back to this. What could be wrong with the calipers?!
Post by: cracker on July 20, 2014, 03:52:24 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2014, 05:14:28 PM
So to be clear, with everything installed as usual, you have a soft pedal. If you clamp off the flex lines to both rear calipers, you have a hard pedal?
Can you pump it up? What if you pull the calipers, and install a C clamp on the piston, all the way in… Does it have a hard pedal then?
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: TrailTamer on July 20, 2014, 05:23:25 PM
Make sure the banjo bolt and the copper washers are there as should.
Pics? Remember try not to think too hard, it should be simple.
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 05:24:18 PM
One observation I made was that it seemed like the calipers were "returning" too far. When someone pumps the pedal with the truck running, I can see the piston suck back in more than I am used to seeing. I can take the calipers off just by hand which also seems unusual to me.
I was wondering if maybe there is a certain point in the master's travel that it would not hold pressure, but would still hold pressure at the beginning of its travel. But a bad master would not hold fluid under any circumstance I would think.
I will give the c clamp all the way down trick a shot. Good thinking.
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 05:31:35 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2014, 06:07:09 PM
Have you tested this one caliper at a time? Or only both or neither?
Maybe you did get the part number with the belt – in air pocket…
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 06:35:04 PM
I have not tried excluding one caliper from the other.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2014, 06:46:38 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 06:49:11 PM
Post by: Wingman on July 20, 2014, 06:55:13 PM
Post by: Nick on July 20, 2014, 07:24:42 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 07:26:49 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2014, 07:51:31 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2014, 08:10:17 PM
I have no clue what could possibly be wrong with a caliper for it to do that without an external leak.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 08:11:27 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 08:12:41 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 20, 2014, 10:43:35 PM
When I was in school, the professor said he always went with NEW as there's too many defective remans.
Stay with OEM if you want when buy new one. It lasted this long so can't really go wrong with another OEM.
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2014, 10:49:23 PM
That being said, fuck my life. Wasted an entire weekend chasing my tail. On a positive note, jeep was prepped in two hours
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2014, 11:04:24 PM
Master could certainly leak as such. I'd buy that at this point.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: rejeep on July 20, 2014, 11:15:54 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 21, 2014, 09:32:07 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 21, 2014, 09:59:03 PM
Post by: Wingman on July 21, 2014, 10:36:52 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 21, 2014, 10:44:34 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 28, 2014, 09:23:36 AM
30min from home, lost power steering. Got off the highway to take back roads and lose power braking. Come to stop sign and truck is making most god awful grinding noise and feels to have been down a cylinder. Pull over, stump Chad on the phone and call AAA.
Power steering res was empty. I always check it and it's never low. I forgot to check this trip.
Thinking at the very least I need a vacuum pump and steering pump. Worst case I need those plus some new gears in the timing case and an injection pump.
Feeling ready to make a change. Not really sure what yet. Love p-pumps and free fuel, but that's about it with this truck.
Post by: rejeep on July 28, 2014, 09:26:55 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 28, 2014, 10:02:50 AM
ill sell you a sweet international and any trailer you want
Hanna will have to rid in her own car though haha
Post by: mr.mindless on July 28, 2014, 11:20:01 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 28, 2014, 11:25:32 AM
not sure how similar 12's are to 24's but i changed that seal on the vac shaft into the PS pump to stop my truck from pouring oil!
Post by: Harrison on July 28, 2014, 11:41:33 AM
Putting a real muffler on my Jeep, fixing doubler shifter linkage, turn signals and a couple other minor things and sticking to local trails for a while. I have finally run completely out of steam to keep this *PILE* running.
Post by: JEEPWERX on July 28, 2014, 12:26:32 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 31, 2014, 08:18:15 PM
Post by: rejeep on July 31, 2014, 08:44:14 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 31, 2014, 09:41:22 PM
Could be worse I suppose.
Post by: M4wdFab on August 01, 2014, 09:05:53 AM
vac or PS pump seized? what would cause that?
Post by: mr.mindless on August 01, 2014, 09:15:04 AM
I think my pump gear went with my pump. I think I still have a cam gear on my hot rod cam, and a stock cam that's fine.
Post by: Harrison on August 01, 2014, 09:41:25 AM
Idk if I noticed power being down until right before I shut it off and it was clearly misfiring, could hear and feel that. Could slipped timing make just one cylinder off? I wouldn't think so. In the few minutes before this all happened, I may have been seeing an occaisional random puff of smoke from the tailpipe. Maybe I was losing an injector anyway and it didn't show up until I stopped... completely unrealted.
I think I need to get it back together, timed right and go from there. I really don't think I hurt the pump.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 01, 2014, 09:49:55 AM
Could slipped timing make just one cylinder off? I wouldn't think so.
No, outside of something else being weird. I guess if it was WAY off, to the point of missing, one might die before the rest if its injector or compression was a little off from the rest. It might feel like one hole dead even if it's just missing gently all over.
Agreed on putting it back together, running it, and seeing.
Id aim for 18* timing running alternative fuels, if not a little more. I ran mine between 16-16.5 and it was pretty great there on #2.
Post by: Harrison on August 01, 2014, 09:52:19 AM
Post by: Harrison on August 06, 2014, 02:22:58 PM
These are intriguing. $30k for a 4x4 base model. Seems like it could be good for a DD/once a month towing machine. Could sell stuff and save for a bit and have a good down payment.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 06, 2014, 04:44:08 PM
b. boooooo DEF
c. sweet!
Post by: jacel86 on August 06, 2014, 07:10:25 PM
Post by: Callelle on August 06, 2014, 07:45:07 PM
Post by: jacel86 on August 06, 2014, 08:01:18 PM
Post by: rejeep on August 06, 2014, 09:42:01 PM
Old mechanical diesels use to run forever with little maintenance...
That's why it all sucks
Post by: dubt on August 06, 2014, 10:19:19 PM
Post by: rejeep on August 06, 2014, 10:20:36 PM
Post by: dubt on August 06, 2014, 10:35:30 PM
Post by: etk300ex on August 07, 2014, 07:48:38 AM
http://www.fourwheeler.com/vehicle-reviews/2014-ram-1500-ecodiesel-review-towing-and-mpg-fuel-economy/
These are intriguing. $30k for a 4x4 base model. Seems like it could be good for a DD/once a month towing machine. Could sell stuff and save for a bit and have a good down payment.
http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/ecodiesel/
starting at $36,475
Post by: Harrison on August 07, 2014, 07:52:04 AM
Post by: etk300ex on August 07, 2014, 07:52:50 AM
Post by: etk300ex on August 07, 2014, 07:54:08 AM
I optioned a Tradesman with reg cab, 4x4, and ecodiesel and it was just over $33k. Then they had a couple incentives going that got it to $30k.
Well that's just bad advertisement then!
Post by: Harrison on August 07, 2014, 07:55:52 AM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/07/7u5ute5a.jpg)
Post by: Harrison on August 07, 2014, 07:57:07 AM
Post by: etk300ex on August 07, 2014, 07:59:56 AM
Post by: Harrison on August 07, 2014, 08:14:13 AM
Post by: etk300ex on August 07, 2014, 08:14:30 AM
Post by: Harrison on August 07, 2014, 08:39:44 AM
Post by: Harrison on August 07, 2014, 08:56:25 AM
http://www.cardebater.com/2014-ram-1500-ecodiesel-vs-2015-nissan-titan-diesel/
Agree 100%. The appeal for me here is something that can get 80% of the mileage of my car and tow my Jeep 70% as well as much truck (assuming it's running right which seems to be a 50/50 shot haha) with a 100k warranty for what I consider a reasonable monthly payment.
Definitely tempting.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 07, 2014, 09:00:29 AM
I know a few companies have been buying glider kits and throwing older rebuilt motor in them. ...
That's the way to go!
Those guys aren't running California after I think 2016 though. Fuckers are forcing repowers, new trucks, aftermarket filters...
Post by: etk300ex on August 07, 2014, 09:27:22 AM
http://www.cardebater.com/2014-ram-1500-ecodiesel-vs-2015-nissan-titan-diesel/
Agree 100%. The appeal for me here is something that can get 80% of the mileage of my car and tow my Jeep 70% as well as much truck (assuming it's running right which seems to be a 50/50 shot haha) with a 100k warranty for what I consider a reasonable monthly payment.
Definitely tempting.
Yeah the 3.0 numbers are pretty impressive. Although if the titan really gets 24 that's doubling my current mpg's ::).
Post by: JEEPWERX on August 07, 2014, 02:21:57 PM
I wouldn't buy one to haul for hire.
But loaded it's 50 grand
Post by: JEEPWERX on August 07, 2014, 02:22:58 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on August 07, 2014, 03:12:37 PM
Id avoid buying spankin brand new to avoid the huge value loss.
Post by: Harrison on August 07, 2014, 03:51:37 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 07, 2014, 04:33:44 PM
Post by: etk300ex on August 07, 2014, 04:57:13 PM
Post by: Harrison on August 07, 2014, 05:24:07 PM
Wheel my Jeep locally and hog Jeepie to Rausch a couple times more this year. Be ready to go with a sweet new tow rig by Ice Breakers 2015.
Post by: Nick on August 07, 2014, 07:29:13 PM
Post by: rejeep on August 07, 2014, 10:26:38 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on August 08, 2014, 12:49:08 PM
Could also apply same sweet Name theory to Mike's Dog issue?
That's my third great idea for the week! Where do I collect my prize?
Post by: mr.mindless on August 08, 2014, 12:55:37 PM
Post by: Harrison on August 09, 2014, 12:48:29 PM
Test drove a quad cab diesel and sat in a reg cab. Has a little turbo lag, but scoots along pretty well. Merging into traffic I figured I was doing 50-55, then noticed I was passing everyone and looked down to see I was doing over 70. And of course it was nice to have tight steering, powerful brakes, air conditioning, the ability to have a conversation inside, etc. Reg cab has a decent amount of room behind back seats for bags and whatnot, Hannah and I agreed it would be plenty of room for clothes bags and stuff for trips. Camping gear would obviously need to go in the Jeep for wheeling trips, but that's what we've been doing anyway.
I liked it.
Post by: Callelle on August 09, 2014, 12:54:20 PM
Post by: rejeep on August 09, 2014, 01:24:10 PM
Post by: Harrison on September 03, 2014, 07:12:39 PM
Glad this is going away.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2014, 07:52:34 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: JEEPWERX on September 03, 2014, 08:08:43 PM
Post by: Harrison on September 03, 2014, 08:09:08 PM
Post by: Harrison on September 03, 2014, 08:09:28 PM
$1/lb?
If only. Nvm
Post by: Nick on September 03, 2014, 08:27:11 PM
I will give you $750 for it :)
Post by: jaysenodell on September 03, 2014, 08:35:47 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on September 03, 2014, 10:02:56 PM
Look like I probably will be the one who'll help a lot to fix it. ::)
Post by: mr.mindless on September 04, 2014, 10:33:35 AM
hot rod has a bolt-on retainer. There's probably some fancy locktite that would make me trust a pressed gear to stay on, not sure I'd trust it bare.
Post by: Harrison on October 02, 2014, 09:29:07 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on October 02, 2014, 10:50:12 PM
Just let me know what you'll want for them and I'll see if I can come up with something to get them.
Post by: Harrison on October 02, 2014, 10:52:31 PM
Post by: Harrison on October 05, 2014, 04:51:14 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 05, 2014, 08:48:38 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on October 05, 2014, 09:47:05 PM
Post by: Harrison on October 21, 2014, 08:41:13 AM
Bye
Post by: JEEPWERX on October 21, 2014, 08:43:24 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 21, 2014, 09:23:45 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on October 21, 2014, 09:43:10 AM
<chip?>
Post by: Harrison on October 21, 2014, 09:53:38 AM