M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: gif on November 07, 2020, 01:24:04 PM
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Picked this up yesterday from Buffalo. I have been looking for one for a while. Now its time to start collecting parts.
(https://i.imgur.com/786kIjq.jpg?1)
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I’ve wanted to do a 5 window Ford since forever. Can’t wait to see what you do.
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So this body came with all the patch panels needed to repair any bad spots. Also came with an aftermarket frame built for model A style builds.
http://www.riley-auto.com/HOME_Page.html Really for the bolt on crowd. Not my style and where is the fun in that. :) Sold the frame and put the money towards hard to find original parts, like a complete front axle assembly I found locally. My next purchase will be the wheels and tires. My top 3 wheel choices are 1) 1960's steel 16X4.5" 5.5" bolt pattern, these are actually old jeep wheels that came off my J truck. 2) 1935 spoke 16x4.5" 5.5" bolt pattern from old fords. I have these as "spares" for the 1925 Roadster 3) Steel 18x4" 4.5" bolt pattern. I would need to purchase these. With the wheels and tires and the body on blocks i can start to layout the frame and measure the width for a rear axle.
(https://i.imgur.com/w9TXa4T.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/4caepoQ.jpg?1)
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I vote #2
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I like the Jeep wheels powder coated red or something like that, with some baby moons.
But it all depends on the look you are going for.
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i think the Nissan 18's would be cool and easier to replace
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all depends on the look you are going for.
without knowing rest of the look, not sure what fits best.
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I got the front axle assembly apart and cleaned up.
90 years is along time for nuts/bolts to rust into place...
Not sure if I will reuse the spring pack. Saved the tie rod for mock up only. Everything else looks good.
(https://i.imgur.com/EBkxpn3.jpg?2)
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Going with the larger 18X4" wheels to get the look I want, exaggerated tall & skinny tire combo.
The first 18X4 rim showed up. These are the "compact" spare wheels for Nissan's. The rim is DOT rated, the tires are temp use only. When the other 3 show up I will take them to the local shop to have the tires pulled off.
New tires ordered and on their way. The new tires use tubes and are typically hand mounted. That will be a challenge with 1.5 arms...
(https://i.imgur.com/iGzpmuP.jpg?1)
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I’ve got a tire machine... and two wings
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Any chance your available tomorrow? The 5th. All 4 wheels and tires came in.
I’ve got a tire machine... and two wings
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Yup! Texting you.
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Big thanks for the help with the tire mounting. 8)
I think they will give the look im going for.
Fronts are 550x18 (29" tall), Rears are 750x18 (34" tall)
(https://i.imgur.com/n0ieeK1.jpg?1)
Yup! Texting you.
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Front axle work. First split the wishbone and add 7/8 heims. Then cut off the original spring hangers from the front of the wishbone.
Started assembly of new hubs and brakes for the front. I love new modern brake hardware on old Iron.
(https://i.imgur.com/SrS1Fwp.jpg?1)
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Acquired a 2000 Ford Explorer 8.8 rear axle complete with limited slip and 4.10 gears. These axles rock disc brakes and 31 spline shafts. Not bad for $250 loaded into the bed of my truck. Best part was only 5 mins from my house!
Started with stripping it all down. Cut off all old mounting hardware. Then cleaned it up with the wire wheel.
(https://i.imgur.com/2tTipDy.jpg?1)
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Started mock up of body placement to check for tire clearance and get an idea of stance and rake. From here i can start the layout of the frame.
I plan to have 1" of body channel. And chop the top down (3-4"). I cant go to crazy with the chop because of my height, but I want some to change the eye line and get closer to the golden ratio.
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Frame under way tonight. 2x3x.125 box tube 8.5" Z on the front and 20" Z on the rear. Rake will be 3-5 degs.
(https://i.imgur.com/8ILDtsE.jpg?1)
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Start of engine and tranny placement. 2004 LS 6.0 / 4L80E. This step is critical. It dictates the body, grill, radiator, and front suspension placement.
Nothing will hang below the frame.
(https://i.imgur.com/7QtB2Ko.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/fnYDj2t.jpg)
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Engine and transmission mounts.
(https://i.imgur.com/IjnOT1M.jpg?1)
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Clearance cut the firewall to test fit the body. A lot of the transmission and driveshaft tunnel will be in the cab area.
Body placement is not final. I have a lot of body fab ahead of me. During that process i will be setting the final rake and making body mounts.
I have acquired a low profile oil pan and intake for the 6.0.
(https://i.imgur.com/82TjQlU.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/S3H0PHo.jpg?1)
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I love the way it looks...
curious..
how are you going to run exhaust and are you going to section the cab?
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lake style headers
going to chop the top. i wont know how much until i see how much head room I have.
I love the way it looks...
curious..
how are you going to run exhaust and are you going to section the cab?
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Getting the front end to look the way I want has been a challenge. First, everything is exposed and visible, so if its wrong it shows. Second, everything has a function, these cars are very minimal and have no places to hide hardware.
Took me three design changes to get the front suspension correct.
I forgot to take pics of the first version. But basically it was with the spring mount on front of the front crossmember. This is pretty traditional. Like my Roadster.
(https://i.imgur.com/YQ5uDuN.jpg)
Version two was with a modified front frame crossmember to follow the lines of the grill. I did not like this look either and i still felt like the front end was too long.
(https://i.imgur.com/LvSUMcr.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/wplzTXf.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/H2ySMBz.jpg?1)
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Version 3 took a lot of brain cells and time on the mill. This setup puts the spring under the grill. Doing this means that the shackle mounts now have to be on the wishbones. This is called a suicide mount because if something fails there is nothing to catch the frame from hitting the ground! So to be a safe as possible I milled the mounts out of 1/2" plate and in a shape that captures the whole wishbone and still looks like it belongs on a 1930 car. I plan to add some bracing when I do finish welding. Doing this shortened the wheelbase 5"
(https://i.imgur.com/5cMFfV5.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/VD8YrTu.jpg?1)
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(https://i.imgur.com/lI9AHzY.jpg?1)
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With the front suspension sorted out its time to move to the rear suspension.
The plan is again for a triangulated 4 link, this time with hot rod style coilovers.
(https://i.imgur.com/I4MgwBb.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/i6NBOM7.jpg?2)
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looking good. truck intake/oil pan, and acc mounting style going to work? they are pretty tall
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I have acquired a low profile oil pan and intake.
Kit to delete PS pump and move ALT.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BELT-PULLEY-Set-for-LS-Power-Steering-Delete-Setup-Alternator-Only/143811633673?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
looking good. truck intake/oil pan, and acc mounting style going to work? they are pretty tall
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Kit to delete PS pump and move ALT.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BELT-PULLEY-Set-for-LS-Power-Steering-Delete-Setup-Alternator-Only/143811633673?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
I hope that works for you. I had issues on the Willys with the tensioner not being right after the alternator. The belt would slip/squeal on the alt pulley and flap after. The tensioner just couldn't do its job efficiently enough.
Fail:
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0347.jpg)
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cool stuff. no power steering needed i guess makes sense nice
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Started the 4 link with a truss. 4" x 3/8" plate. Strong and keeps the profile low.
(https://i.imgur.com/RJQ6oQB.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/fEdlP7o.jpg?1)
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4 link mocked up. Lower axle tabs are 3/8" plate. All other tabs are 1/4". Lower Heim joints are 7/8" Uppers are 3/4" All tube is 1.375x.188 wall DOM. All through bolts are 1/2" Grade 8.
(https://i.imgur.com/N2sEDAx.jpg?1)
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(https://i.imgur.com/XZC1vHV.jpg?2)
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Rolling chassis status. Through bolts are 5/8" grade 8.
I didnt like the traditional single shear lower mount these type of hot rods use. So I milled out a chunk of 2" X 1.5" 1" plate and then drill a 5/"8 through hole.
I dont think those will break off.
(https://i.imgur.com/BIJz4nQ.jpg?1)
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Started cutting away the rust today to see what I have to work with. Front half of the sub rails are useable. From the B pillar back are gone.
Not a big deal as I plan to channel the body 1.5". Lots of sheet metal work in my future.
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(https://i.imgur.com/NpM2qKY.jpg?1)
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More cutting out the rusty bits. Then started at the rear with a replacement panel. Next had to build the rear sub frame from scratch. Used 2x2 16G box. The corners were a PITA because the curve progressively gets tighter, its not just a radius.
It is easy to get overwhelm with the amount of body work these type of builds require. So you just pick a spot to start and chip away at it.
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Still plugging away at the body patch panels and sub frame.
(https://i.imgur.com/CNdsmWf.jpg?1)
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Body patch panels and sub frame complete. Still have patch panel work to do on the lower section of the doors.
With the sub frame done was able to make some body mounts, 6 in total, firewall, B pillar, rear and then get the body on the chassis. Next was the start of the floor cross members.
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The three floor cross members will need to clear the driveshaft and still be strong to support the floor. I started building some tunnels from 1/4"' plate and 1x1 box tube. I need to get the driveshaft built before I can install the tunnel. The shaft will have a 1350CV and 1350 rear yoke. The shaft will slope up to the axle and be off set to the rear as 8.8 are not center yoke.
(https://i.imgur.com/noPjqsH.jpg?2)
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I plan to run cowl steering on this car.
I searched and found a manual steering gear that does not require it to be reversed. Meaning the rotation of the steering wheel will swing the pitman arm the correct direction for my application. This is a 1971 box from a Mopar car.
For this to work I need to mount the box on its side and extend the output shaft so that it will pass through the driver side cowl.
First step was to cut off the spline part of the pitman. Then i spun it down to a 1.495 OD so that it will fit inside a 1.75"OD .120wall chunk of DOM tube (thanks Smike for the tube). Then drilled 1/2" holes in the tube so I could plug weld and surface weld the spline slug in to the tube.
Next issue is fitting a socket. The nut is 1-5/16" and a 1-5/16" socket OD will not fit in the extension tube. So I milled down the nut to 1-1/8".
Thats about 6 hours of work...
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I had to look up cowl steering. like the photos in the first post here? https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/mopar-cowl-steering-problems.944068/page-2
I was wondering why change the nut size rather than increase the tube ID, but I think now I follow what's going on here and you'll be using a couple extensions to tighten that nut? Nice!
I doubt I can embed the image...
(https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/motor-02-jpg.2760572/)
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interesting!
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Im doing the cowl steering for the "cool" aesthetics factor. 8) The fact is this type of steering has an inherent flaw with its geometry that will produce bump steer. There are a lot of things you can do to mitigate the issue, but then again this car was never going to ride like a Bentley.. Its all about compromise.
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essentially the same mechanics as the land Rover Series setup..
would love to see the inside..
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Mock up. I start with building a mounting flange for the steering gear that I will build box tube supports around. The box tube structure will also be the mount supports for the steering shaft/column, master brake cylinder, dash and other stuff.
(https://i.imgur.com/1m1BeFK.jpg?1)
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Yes, I need the socket with an extension to fit in the tube to tighten the nut. I could go bigger with the tube to allow fitment of the larger socket, but that is not a common tube size and it starts to look a little out of proportion.
I was wondering why change the nut size rather than increase the tube ID, but I think now I follow what's going on here and you'll be using a couple extensions to tighten that nut? Nice!
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That’s great!!
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Start of the under dash frame work. Most of the steering mount is done. I will add a few more braces once I have the placement of the brake master cylinder figured out.
(https://i.imgur.com/dWAkFNc.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/OFCSQMs.jpg?1)
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Driveshaft. All 1350. 8)
(https://i.imgur.com/rke7s2E.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/ahpSNBx.jpg?1)
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With the driveshaft installed I was able to install the tunnel cross member supports.
(https://i.imgur.com/0XOaRxZ.jpg?1)
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More steering work. This took me 4 redesigns to get it just right. Ending up using sealed bearings and the core of a stock steering shaft from a GM steering column.
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More under dash work.
Master brake cylinder installed. I did not want the MC to be visible. The most common place to install it under the floor was not going to work. Under the dash is also the space the steering gear occupies. I was able to offset it and run it backwards. The MC is a 1" bore with 6:1 pedal ratio. The under dash sub frame is 1x1x.125 wall. It needs to be strong and stiff to support the leverage of the steering and the MC. Most of the under dash work and bracing is done. Just have the PCM and fuse/relay panel to build on the passenger side. As always, packaging is a nightmare with these small cars.
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Gas tank installed. I was going to build a custom gas tank like I did for the roadster. But then I found a tank that fit perfect and had everything I needed for a FI engine.
Tanks Inc.
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=533/category_id=133/mode=prod/prd533.htm
15" Tall x 7-1/2" Deep x 34" Wide
14 Gal Capacity
Your Choice of Angled Neck with Hose, or 3" tall Threaded Neck with Billet Cap
3/8" NPT Internal Pickup Tube
Accepts All Popular 5-hole Senders If using tube sender length is 14"
Rollover Vent Valve
Includes Block Off Plate with Gasket
Alloy Coated Steel or Stainless Steel
Will accept our GPA-U2 series fuel pumps
Internal baffling for fuel injection. Will work with carburetor engines too!
(https://i.imgur.com/OSPPEe1.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/RLyqKKO.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/3CPhwdP.jpg?1)
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I’ve used Tanks Inc stuff too on a couple of projects. Good products.
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Planning out the roof chop. I can chop down 4" out of the roof and still have plenty of headroom. I am using 4" wide painters tape for a consistent top and bottom line. Then I painted it and removed the tape. Now I have a nice sharp line to cut on.
These old cars used wood inside the body structure for strength and mounting locations for the interior. The wood is held in place with a combination of wood screws and trim nails. I removed ALL the wood. That was a lot of work to remove over 100 little nails using vice grips...
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Coupe got a hair cut.
Roof will stay off while I install the floor and the skin the interior.
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Found a spot for the battery.
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Wow does that ever change the character. Party time.
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Yes, A lot more aggressive. 8)
Wow does that ever change the character. Party time.
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Start of interior.
(https://i.imgur.com/Zr00UwD.jpg?1)
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I saw this car and noticed same style of steering you're doing.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1931-studebaker-model-54/
It looks wicked!
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Yes, that car has cowl steering.
IMO that car is ugly as F&@K. From the the paint to the over all look, not my style. I also spotted many design flaws..
Everyone cant like everything. Im sure the "old school" guys are going to give me crap about the LS power vs a traditional flat head V8.
My standard response is; "You dont like it? Build your own." :)
I saw this car and noticed same style of steering you're doing.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1931-studebaker-model-54/
It looks wicked!
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Battery access will be behind the seat. One panel at a time. I start with cardboard and make a template then transfer it to 16GA sheet and cut it out with the plasma leaving a extra 1/8" that I trim to fit. This is a long process for complicated shapes.
(https://i.imgur.com/9QbLdR5.jpg?1)
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More floor work.
(https://i.imgur.com/ilZvgrP.jpg?1)
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Time to get back at this thing.
First thing I wanted to address was the tie rod placement. Originally I had the tie rod behind the axle. However the steering arms and tie rod had a lot of interference issues because of placement of the factory steering arms and my ultra low stance. So I cut off the factory steering arms. I found some forged bolt through steering arms I could torch and bend and looked like something that would have been on a 1930's car. I needed to bend them to achieve a good steering ackerman.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
(https://i.imgur.com/lSphIvZ.jpg)
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Working on under dash stuff. PCM, 100A circuit breaker, relays, fuse boxes, and 200amp ign relay.
Flip down access for fuse boxes and circuit breaker reset.
(https://i.imgur.com/EoTrMvv.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/2U0ad1C.jpg?1)
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double check the kid in india stuck the right color wires in the same places on your relay sockets. happened to me 3 times now that being the issue stuff not working on a new build / wiring with two leads swapped from their friends.
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Blue Sea fuse boxes?
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clones. These have led indicator lights for open circuit (blown fuse) and a ground block. I dont use the cheap fuses that come with them. I use OEM fuses I pull when Im at the junk yards.
Blue Sea fuse boxes?
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Shock/headlight mounts Simple shaped 3/8" plate. Also had to remake the upper steering arm to clear the headlight better for suspension up travel. It looks flat, but actually has a 5 deg bend/twist.
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Start of the dash panel.
(https://i.imgur.com/dJig5HW.jpg?1)
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Roof welded back on.
(https://i.imgur.com/2unsMGa.jpg?1)
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Looks awesome!
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Keeping the patina I hope?!
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yup.
Keeping the patina I hope?!
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Doors repaired and chop complete.
(https://i.imgur.com/vL0pGCS.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/Fl5s95e.jpg?1)
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working on the lake style headers.
(https://i.imgur.com/6gqBPgN.jpg?1)
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made up an auger muffler insert and exhaust turndown.
Inserts are made from 1" OD tube and 16ga sheet. Turndowns are from a 3.5" 90 elbow.
I really like the way the driver side turned out, ready for final welding.
I hope I can replicate it on the pass side...
(https://i.imgur.com/Wg0FzMT.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/4QWpmVM.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/QxrxM66.jpg?1)
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Pass side ready for finish weld.
(https://i.imgur.com/yeBXEUC.jpg?1)
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Preparing the roof for a 40"X40" sliding ragtop.
(https://i.imgur.com/JbgJV1O.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/zu2tYch.jpg?1)
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Sliding Ragtop install mostly complete. Everything loosely installed to test fit. Final assembly will draw the rails down tight to the roof.
Now I need to weld in some supports to replace the wood that was originally used to stiffen up the roof.
I love the look. Very west coast.
(https://i.imgur.com/lLm82Cu.jpg?1)
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The new intake also makes a huge difference!
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new intake is less ugly and has 92mm TB. LQ4 factory accessories bracket is also ugly, so I wanted to delete that too.
The LS alt case is huge and didnt fit where I wanted it. I dont need a PS pump.
I dug out a CS130 alt from my buggy days. Its a smaller case with same 6 groove pulley and same 105 amps.
Fits down low perfect. just waiting on new idler pulley.
(https://i.imgur.com/dhEYjTZ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/MHLQj7q.jpg?1)
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nice compact air filter
(https://i.imgur.com/YiP9G1i.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/oD7TpIz.jpg?1)
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More engine parts. Valve covers for hidden coil packs. Power steering delete bracket, idler pulley and serpentine belt. Radiator hoses made up and fitted.
Throttle cable installed too. I think I will paint most engine parts black for a stealth look.
(https://i.imgur.com/Dwgzi0a.jpg?1)
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Surgery today on my other knee will slow this project down for a few weeks.
But I did get the roof supports in and did some hammer and dolly work.
Most current to do list before I start teardown and finish welding.
1) fab/install trunk hinges and finish trunk area fab
2) seats -not sure of my plan here pretty much just a seat cushion on the floor...
3) prep for interior
4) cut down windshield
5) cut in taillights
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Heal quickly and don't overdo it!
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Godspeed!
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Knee feeling better. Thanks guys.
Out in the shop today.
Trunk hinges/latch, taillights, door handles/latches done.
Cut down the windshield and fitted, just needs glass.
Last thing on my list before teardown are the seats.
(https://i.imgur.com/AYjH4oZ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/cc3yMqV.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/C4NtTDm.jpg?1)
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Acquired some seats today. These came out of a church bus and are in mint condition.
The gray ones have a little taller back and fit me really good.
(https://i.imgur.com/KvOsNLn.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/8TTtSUR.jpg?1)
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Seats mounted. I put the drivers side on sliders this time. What a pita trying to keep the seat as low as possible.
Had to modify the crap out of the slider. ::) Pass seat is fixed. Now I think I am ready to pull it apart and finish weld.
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nice seeing actual seats.. see a lot of metal tubs that show the person does not actually intend to drive the car much!
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yes. these are true suspension seats with good back support. 8)
I kept one pair of the maroon color for a future project, sold the rest of the seats at $50-$75/pair. I paid $100 for all ten.
nice seeing actual seats.. see a lot of metal tubs that show the person does not actually intend to drive the car much!
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Teardown complete.
(https://i.imgur.com/wkrVR4a.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/rZoAXlB.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/XqPTEjL.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/qCmXC6g.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/rgCBfFJ.jpg?1)
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9 hrs of welding today. 8) Chassis, link bars, wishbones, exhaust, battery tray, gas tank mount, tie rod, drag link.
Ran out of mig gas. Rear axle and some under side body left to do.
(https://i.imgur.com/qbfPPGb.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/eqQcvH8.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/WMdHiIZ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/1nllAed.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1aYQnL9.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/rJaqoeQ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/f4g8IDs.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/FWDBrzX.jpg?1)
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Rear axle and underside of body welding complete.
Started final chassis assembly.
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Started on the stuff that takes forever and will nickel and dime you to death.
Got the engine and tranny cleaned up and back in the car.
E-brake fab complete. Brake lines, fuel lines, power wire, wiring harness started on the frame.
Had to make a custom tranny dipstick and tube, probably do the same for the oil dipstick.
(https://i.imgur.com/9llIoCO.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/zyG9bKb.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/2L8gFW2.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/L8rCOs4.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/LnkBoky.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/j5eFsTX.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/yCuQrJP.jpg?1)
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Making a custom tranny and engine PCM harness. The plan is to hand wrap everything.
(https://i.imgur.com/etDr8oy.jpg?1)
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Engine side of harness done. Everything in the trunk is done.
Next is everything in the dash.
(https://i.imgur.com/onSrotV.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/fozndT7.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/B3a0Fuc.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/F5fzCUf.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/WCU1VzD.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/lojQKFa.jpg?1)
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excellent work as usual gif!
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excellent work as usual gif!
Thanks.
and thanks for the PCM check today.
I was chasing no fuel and no spark issues and wanted to make sure my VATS delete was good.
No fuel was a missing ground on the fuel pump.
No spark was a aftermarket coil harness wiring issue.
Still need to make some more PCM changes, but got it running 8)
Most of the wiring for everything else is done.
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Wiring 100% complete and everything electrical functional.
Seats installed.
Did some more changes to the PCM so it will start and idle. Fan on/off temps, delete rear O2's, delete all emissions, speedometer corrections for wheel size PPR, and others..
But it needs a real tune because of the hardware changes I made. Intake / MAF sensor / O2 sensor placement.
And I dont want to take the time to learn all the fuel/spark/air mapping stuff. So off it goes to get tuned.
While I wait for that I can install the ragtop, bleed the brakes and get the windshield glass cut.
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Moves under its own power.
Brakes bled. Ragtop installed.
Cutting 2"out of the grill for ground clearance.
Still needs a tune. (started messing with the VE table)
Needs windshield glass.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ow5ULqW.jpg?1)
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Cutting 2" out of the grill was more work than I was expecting. But it turned out perfect.
(https://i.imgur.com/ETeQCj4.jpg?1)
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that is pretty damn cool.. NICE JOB!
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very nice!
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that's awesome!
nice work!
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First show of the season. 8)
https://youtu.be/2XKhKkA9x4A
(https://i.imgur.com/GlpjF3I.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/juDfGGX.jpg?1)
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It'd be awesome if you built a rat rod style of trailer and use the Apache to tow this to car shows.
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Windshield glass installed. Blacked out the radiator and tranny cooler behind the grill. No issues at DMV, acquired new tags. Found vintage 1930 NY plates I will switch over to once I get my new transferable reg back from Albany.
Went for a cruise today. No real issues. Found small leak at the brake master cylinder. Runs warmer than my Apache, I assume because of the much smaller radiator.
Lots of power from the 6.0L and shifts are crisp. Brakes are firm and strong. Seating position is good. Pedal placement feels correct. Steering is real nice. Visibility is ok, lose sight of the stop lights into the visor when approaching until can see through the roof. Suspension feel spot on. Rides real nice for a low slung car on a I beam front axle.
I think i'm done engine tuning.
Will run it like this for the rest of the summer and then work on the interior over the winter.
(https://i.imgur.com/aY2ZNeA.jpg?1)
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looks sharp! nice work as always!
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Can't wait to see it in the "flesh"!
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(https://i.imgur.com/wpIkijE.jpg?1)
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(https://i.imgur.com/i8UgKAM.jpg?1)
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Put about 300 miles on the Coupe today. No issues. Went to a car show in the town I grew up in. Was a great show. Car got lots of attention. Everyone likes the ragtop. Top 3 questions: 1) Is it fast? 2) Is it loud? 3) What engine is that?
(https://i.imgur.com/iWvMLM7.jpg?1)
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That's awesome. Is that NYSP in the median?
It'd be awesome if you make a classic-looking trailer slammed to the ground (with hydraulics to raise it for regular towing) and it'd be freakin awesome to see the chevy towing the coupe.
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Perry Super Cruise.
(https://i.imgur.com/JLDzvM7.jpg?1)
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I want a lotus so bad but I wont fit in it :(
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Same but different. 8)
(https://i.imgur.com/cUGZUm2.jpg?1)
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Looks like you need someone to drive your Apache around ;)
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(https://i.imgur.com/iqfon58.jpg?1)
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(https://i.imgur.com/Pz6aONX.jpg?1)
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“Compact Cars Only”
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Vintage plates 8)
(https://i.imgur.com/uDmZQ5i.jpg?1)
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As it should be!
Nice
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(https://i.imgur.com/wiqKFr3.jpg)
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Sweet pic!
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Figured I should finish this one before I start the next.
Its a small to do list.
Replace the tranny mount with a stiffer Poly one.
Replace the leaky master brake cylinder (was new wtf)
Install interior. (jute/carpet/vinyl/tweed)
Got the new master cylinder in.
Started on the jute.
(https://i.imgur.com/F8hKqdI.jpg?3)
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New poly tranny mount in.
All the jute is installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/KOymfbr.jpg?3)
(https://i.imgur.com/Xo33qbz.jpg?5)
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Hours to get this far.
(https://i.imgur.com/z9AAuOu.jpg?1)
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is all that Jute like steamed in and glued down, or? so many puzzle pieces no matter the method
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I hand cut each piece to fit. have to use serrated scissors to cut it. Glued with 3M Super 77 industrial grade spray glue. You spray the target area and then spray the back of jute/carpet. Then put the jute/carpet on the target area. You get one shot because its high tack and bond strength. :o
Jute is the easy part. easy to hide mistakes. Carpet takes time because it will show mistakes, trim & test fit, repeat until perfect...
is all that Jute like steamed in and glued down, or? so many puzzle pieces no matter the method
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Doors are tweed and vinyl. floor carpet complete.
(https://i.imgur.com/3yFl0xP.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/x31Wctd.jpg?1)
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Still working on the carpet and this happened. Fresh utility blade is no joke.
(https://i.imgur.com/z19bcjM.jpg?1)
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Uncomfortably clean cut. Way to hold a straight line? Oof!
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jumped the straight edge guide
Uncomfortably clean cut. Way to hold a straight line? Oof!
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Ooof
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wow! thats impressive. I always say you do impressive work.
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youch
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Interior complete.
(https://i.imgur.com/c2YE74V.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/5tiFbNr.jpg?4)
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Went to car show that was about an hour south of my house this weekend and noticed that the car had some hesitation. Couldn't put my finger on it at first but then noticed it was when I drove over bumps/holes in the road. So today I put the laptop on it and logged some driving data. Here is what I found. A first I thought it might be an overly sensitive knock sensor retarding the timing. Thats how most GM engines are setup. But when I looked at the data I saw the TPS dropping out. Also see that the TPS is not at 0% when off the gas pedal. The drop in TPS coincides with the timing drops.
Next tested the voltage at the sensor and it looked good. Figured might have a bad TPS and swapped it out with one laying around, same result. Thought more about the bumps causing the drop outs and started looking at the harness. BINGO! found a spot were the harness was rubbing on the aluminum head where the cast was sharp and cut through the harness wrap and the wire insulation. Working on a permanent solution...
(https://i.imgur.com/vHjZiGZh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/S0m27Fih.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8nt4Uyuh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Rq5sRfqh.jpg)
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nicely done diagnosis! that would have been a bear without the logs and that looks like an awful tiny rub spot
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Thanks, this is why I love LS swaps.
nicely done diagnosis! that would have been a bear without the logs and that looks like an awful tiny rub spot
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Fixed wire insulation with dabs of high temp hot glue. Wrapped the harness with some anti-chafe sleeve and then re-wrapped it with harness tape. Installed $30 in AN6 fuel line fittings to give the little more slack and change the fuel line path away from crowding the harness. Add a few more zip ties...
(https://i.imgur.com/JrZQl8th.jpg)
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Drive back from a car show today was a little wet at times. I wish I had a rear facing cam, the open wheel roosts were 12ft high. lol
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0icAbbZCJA
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Where was the show? Waterloo is a good drive from home!
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Auburn, north end of Owasco lake. 1.5hr drive.
Where was the show? Waterloo is a good drive from home!
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Found a broken grade 8 1/4-20 that holds the gas tank strap. Upgraded to 5/16.
(https://i.imgur.com/r6Ztjhuh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bKKfWz1h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VuW3tC1h.jpg)
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I have been looking for black seats, but so is everyone else.. So i decided to try vinyl paint for seats. This is flat black.
I think it turned out pretty good. Only time will tell how long it holds up.
(https://i.imgur.com/696pp52h.jpg)
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FOR SALE.
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SOLD
(https://i.imgur.com/EfsSkxKh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZGLYsFwh.jpg)
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That was fast! Nice
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These car are in high demand for crazy money. On to the next...
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Hope you got crazy money for it!
Looking forward to your next project updates. I've always enjoyed it immensely.
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Yup, got my asking. Guy sent bank bag of cash and a hot shot shipper. Guys picking it up said we just transport...
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Coupe is back up for sale. Looks like he added some wheels and installed all the glass.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1379780499307525/
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big number, nice lol
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Here was my post in Sept.
(https://i.imgur.com/CgVNQ5Lh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hSsFfoWh.jpg)
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Looks like it changed hands again.
(https://i.imgur.com/t5RFV4Rl.jpg)
Coupe is back up for sale. Looks like he added some wheels and installed all the glass.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1379780499307525/
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I like the narrow tires better