Trailer Disk Brakes?

[M4wdFab]

pulled a hub this morning to measure and look at things.

of course the wires were disconnected from the brake (shit butt connectors failed) and drum/shoes full of grease.

F me.



still need to stay the course as i think if i just threw easy 1000$ and replaced all brakes/ 9/16"hubs to new id still have disappointing shit brakes.

3/4ton rotors from buggy wont work.  not machined flat where studs press in. need a rear 8 lug rotor application or 2wd unit bearing slip over. 

need to determine OD of off shelf idler hubs if thats an option

looks like pleanty of room around torsion axles/frame for caliper brackets ect

[M4wdFab]

06 3/4ton rear rotors are 22$ each at rock auto and i have an axle downstairs im going to pull one and see how it would fit on an idler hub. id be fine if i need to lathe turn off 1/4" of 6 hubs


rotors, calipers, pads, hoses 550 from RA
6 idler hubs, pump, bearings, caps 1300
plasma table brakets/ make hardlines

thats about as good as i can plan.  i think thats worth it over just slapping 1000 of stock backingplates/new hubs on. 

then its cheap rotors and pads for service. 

[mr.mindless]

all seems good, I'll repeat myself that the calipers on mine are FWD car stuff, half the size or less. might be a challenge to balance application pressure/volume but I bet bigger calipers and a pump set for drum brakes might be good at lower pressure - but probably even less volume. It'll probably be fine

[M4wdFab]

the big box trailer kits are 2.5" bore

my easy choices id like are 2 15/16 or 3"



are yours not kodiak or hydrastar?

[M4wdFab]

im still not convinced spending the 2500$ on the kit (after shipping) isnt a bad idea and just bolt on and be done (for a few years).   

its not like i would do anything on the side the road to fix a dead brake or 2 when i have 6 to start with. 

[M4wdFab]

there are a couple more used brake pumps on ebay right now also as an option to try and low ball offer

[M4wdFab]

mike do you know how your system modulates brake force?  is it just on / off with pump up delay, or some type of electronic pressure bleed with comanded brake controller output? voltage? time?    i honestly dont realy know what brake controllers out put and how

[M4wdFab]

winning.  plenty of meat left on the hub turned down to just shy of 8" to fit inside 2006 3/4 silverado rear rotors i had on hand.

i did 2 of them this morning.  lots of material removed and got out the big boy shaper tool bits to hawg.  Ill order calipers and rotors now that i have an idea for bracket spacing and caliper foot print. its going to work sweet.  might get lucky with a flat bracket off the plasma table.   


then ill shop for a pump and decided 1000psi vs 1600 psi. 

[mr.mindless]

Kodiak setup initially. now with $14 parts store closeout loaded calipers, the GM front wheel drive application their casting was based on. still with their expensive integrated disc hubs.

the brake controller varies voltage for stopping force.
the pump needs to take that varied voltage and apply variable pressure based on it. I assume (truly) that there's enough smarts in the pump controller that it is modulating pump duty based on that input voltage to hold a spec pressure for given voltage. Probably through PWM actuation of the pump? The voltage is only used as a trigger/input, the pump needs fixed power and ground.

[mr.mindless]

How's that stud length, they look a lil short on remaining stickout?

I'd look at redoing my brackets to work with those rotors after turning down hubs, if they're thin enough for my calipers...

[M4wdFab]

effective stud length will be only a rotor hat thickness shorter (5/16"?) and with steel wheels it should be fine.

deff one of the things i considered before doing this, still have 1" of threads for lug nut engagement more than enough on a 9/16" stud. 

[M4wdFab]

rotors im using are 1.14" nominal thickness.  the calipers im using are made for a 1.295" nominal thickness.  may need a pad spacer, or it will be fine.  hoping i can use a pad spacer on whatever side to help using a straight bracket, eye ball says its close but i need more parts before that step. 

[M4wdFab]

idler hubs are also only about 70$ each maybe cheaper if your fine with staying with 1/2" studs on your trailer.   needing 6 was enough for me to try turning them, and probably still trading dollars for time. 

my bearings all look fine and clean grease, ill honestly just throw new hub seals in them for now unless i find something terrible. 

[M4wdFab]

544$ for 6 rotors, 6 calipers, 3 pairs of pads, 6 brake hoses from RA shipped


thats not a bad full service cost for 3 7k axles

[M4wdFab]

5 hubs done, one more to go tomorrow.  my phase converter is smelling warm lately so not really doing this in a hurry. 

out of my brakes:  one disconnected, 2 others FULL of grease, 3 rusted junk in pretty bad shape.