Harry's Buggy

[Harrison]

Keeping things updated here.

Reworked front axle side uppers to kick pinion angle up a hair.

Rear suspension mocked up. Same length uppers as front, lowers different only because chassis side mounts needed to be outboarded to miss the output. Both axles are 36" from the chassis belly that's 40" long, so 112" wheelbase.

Ordering knuckles, high steer arms, rams, tie rod hardware, misc KP stuff next week. That should keep me busy for a while. Hoping to be ready for some 14in 2.0 airs around the new year and have a roller not long after as long as tires, chassis, and driveshafts all seem like they get along with each other OK.

[Harrison]

Smike (or anyone): drilling high steer arms.

Planning to measure from knuckle turning axis to center of stock tie rod location. Then replicate that measurement to the high steer arm and drill accordingly.

Am I missing anything? No plans to do the double shear stuff.

[M4wdFab]

you probably dont care about steering power or steering speed in this application, so do what fits.

[mr.mindless]

If you want to get fancy, fix Ackerman angle with the new hole. it's something about where a plane in the axis of rotation of the knuckle passes through the center of the rear axle?

It will probably be fine. no matter what.

[TrailTamer]

I’ll still want to make as best Ackerman geometry as I can. It’ll help a lot on your tight turns. As short your wheelbase is, drill holes as far outward as you can (or inward if arms go behind the axle), along with correct distance away from king pin to match the hydro cylinder you plan on to use, lock to lock stroke.

[M4wdFab]

pointless.

even more with a rear steer buggy.

[mr.mindless]

Idk about fully pointless, but spooled diffs really reduce returns on doing it ‘right’

[Harrison]

The flats on the arm don’t give much real estate for moving them “in”. Distance from KP axis is about all I get to choose.

I think my plan is welded front with indexed shaft yokes, auto locker rear. Up in the air on full case or Torq, probably just do Torq. Not that worried with 180hp and LP rear.

Front will get Hardcore selectables from my Jeep. On the trail, it will always be under load so I don’t see much point in a locker there. Rear can be left to ratchet around when in FWD.

Selectable lockers are too much claptrap for me. If I change my mind down the road, throwing away stock carriers and selling a lunchbox is fine to get into that world. I think stuff that does 50° steering would be a lot more beneficial anyway.

[mr.mindless]

Yup yup n yup

Why hubs for front and not slugs other than you have them

[Harrison]

Yup yup n yup

Why hubs for front and not slugs other than you have them

Because I have them is the main reason. When my Jeep was spooled front with flanges I found it really annoying maneuvering around the driveway to get into garage or trailer.

[Harrison]

As short your wheelbase is

112 inches! Not short.

[TrailTamer]

As short your wheelbase is

112 inches! Not short.

oops. longer than a XJ, even!

find out correct distance from king pin to match your steering system and run it!

[M4wdFab]

you probably dont care about steering power or steering speed in this application, so do what fits.

and ill add "your steering system"  is full hydro and a bunch of best guesses- so again do what fits after some thought.  if your really worried about lock to lock turn estimation with what ever ram and what ever cylinder you get- wait until its all set up, use C clamps on the steering arms to hold the heims instead of drilling the bolts.  adjust arm radius then drill. 

[Harrison]

you probably dont care about steering power or steering speed in this application, so do what fits.

and ill add "your steering system"  is full hydro and a bunch of best guesses- so again do what fits after some thought.  if your really worried about lock to lock turn estimation with what ever ram and what ever cylinder you get- wait until its all set up, use C clamps on the steering arms to hold the heims instead of drilling the bolts.  adjust arm radius then drill.

Yeah, I'm probably overthinking it. I had the same thought with the clamps, too.

Buddy says he bought his arms pre-drilled at 7.5" from center of the knuckle. I would like to get the most angle I can with minimal clearancing to the axle yokes.

[Harrison]

Cycled both axles in all directions checking driveshaft angles and clearance. Everything seems good, but I don't think I'm going to be able to avoid using an offset joint at least the front output. I was hoping standard stuff would do the job but I need about 30deg there and even yoke clearancing isn't gonna get me that. On the plus side, stock turbo drain seems to be fine where it is and I was absolutely expecting to have to modify that.

Front axle is pretty much all laid out aside from shock mounts. Lots of gusseting for both ram and winch mount left to do.

Can't find second set of lower kingpins. Once I get a set it'll be onto the rear ram mount.

Axle stuff coming together faster than expected. Going to need shocks soon.