TFT The not white unibody

[Callelle]

I'm going with TnT's truss to keep is as simple of a swap as possible for me. The only thing I have to do is weld the truss to the axle and weld the lower control arm mounts, which are keyed off of the truss. This should make it for the most part, bolt into my current suspension. The only thing I might really have to adjust is the frame side mount for my track bar.

[KingtheZJ]

I’m inbound about parts

[Callelle]

Acquired some 37s



Don't know why my picture didn't upload yesterday.

[Callelle]

Apparently I've been driving this thing around since August with one pin missing, and one broken pin in the rear Aussie since August

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[Callelle]

Got a bunch of parts over the past week to start work on this. Torq lockers, Revolution gears and install kits, solid dif covers, and the bracketry to mount the 14 bolt. Got the hubs and brakes all apart for the 60, gonna start stripping and cleaning it in the next weekend or 2.

[Wingman]

Are you going to do 3/4 ton brakes?

[Callelle]

Probably just running the brakes that are on the axles. The 14bolt is already discs anyway.

[Callelle]

Finally got a chance to work on this some. Living 45 minutes from your shop blows. Got the 60 stripped and cleaned, still have a small bit of the driver's side leaf perch to trim so the truss fits on. 14 bolt is half stripped, would have gotten further but my torches weren't agreeing with me and I ran out of cut off wheels and flap discs. Gonna get back at it Friday and hopefully get the front truss burned on and to the point that I can get it mounted to the control arms and start figuring out what I'm gonna do for steering and for a track bar.

[Callelle]

Was hoping to get the truss fully burned in today. Got it mocked up, tacked, and did the first stitch weld. While I was waiting for it to cool, I decided to read all the way through the instructions again. Noticed it said I needed to notch the housing for the driver side lca mount. So I mocked it up and it looks like quite a bit more than a notch, especially since it cuts out a plug weld. I'm nervous about cutting that much away, so I figured I'd call them and just confirm that it's fine to cut that much away.

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[Callelle]

Got a reply from tnt today.
"Yes you will need to cut away roughly 2 3/8 inch of the casting. To weld the lower control arm mount on you will weld on the inside of the lower control arm mount for the side next to the casting. I have attached a few pictures of a cut dana 60."

Guess I'll get back at it this weekend. It looks like they just used a cut off wheel to cut the chunk of the housing out. Anyone have any better ways to do it or is that going to be my best bet.


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[wnyjpgy]

Is this the 78-79 housing you got from Smike?

I'm surprised you have to cut that much, I run a 91 housing (less short side showing), and had to cut significantly less to make it work, but I didn't utilize a truss. (But I am in the factory coil/shock location)

[Callelle]

Yeah it is. The way tnt does there's is they put the lowers and uppers in the same spots as on the 30. I didn't think I would have to cut it at all, because it's got the longer driver side tube, but oh well. Hindsight is 20/20. Some other people have suggested just putting the lowers right next to the housing and not cutting it at all, but I don't know how that would work out with my control arms.

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[M4wdFab]

that seems a little sketchy 

[Callelle]

Per discussing things with Harrison, I'm gonna trim the housing to get it to fit as close as I can, weld like TNT says on the inside of the bracket, and then I'm gonna heat the housing around the bracket and hit it with 7018 to weld the bracket to the housing.

[Wingman]

BleepinJeep just posted a video on this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sH4EcR1rrMA