hannah's build thread

[JEEPWERX]

Lookin Good!

[Harrison]

Axle*

Brakes*

Shackle nut broke free inside rail, that set us back a lot today. Would have been able to do some trimming if that hadn't happened! I was all for ditching the flares and trimming... But seeing it now with the flares on, I think it would be naked without them. Trim rear flare a little and relocate the front up higher after trimming.

Looks great!

[mr.mindless]

Really looks sharp as it sits!! I'd do what was possible to keep the flares for now assuming they won't get ripped off super easily.


Tapatalking in traffic

[Harrison]

all XJ;s have a square hole behind the inner fender to stick a screw driver in to pop the hood latch!

Can you elaborate on this? 2nd hood latch failed in 3 months... ready for hood pins haha

[Hannah]

I'm all for something on the outside if is easier to open the hood. Would the hood latch things from a wrangler work on a Cherokee somehow?

[Harrison]

That's true... you couldn't even pull the cable when it was working right after we freed everything up and greased the hell out of the mechanism!

[M4wdFab]

this knowledge can be attributed from working on wonder 2.0

this only works if the latches work, and the interior cable is either broke or jammed up i believe

with the hood open look at the fender next to the passenger latch.  there is a square hole in the inner fender- 

with the hood closed peel back the inner fender liner on passenger side, and you can access the passenger latch to pop it open, you then can get the the middle of the hood to pull the linkage to pop the driver side if needed. 


Chip didnt believe me what the hole was for until i showed him on the four XJ's of different vintages in his shop they all have the square hole.  Mj's also...

[Hannah]

I'm thinking these are an easier fix

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3870SS/

http://m.cherokeeforum.com/showthread.php?t=27175&styleid=16

[Harrison]

Fixed the yoke and a couple other things and took this for a drive.

Hit 65, no more death wobbling. Accelerates and stops respectably for what it is. Rear springs are stiff, hoping they settle a little but not expecting much from a bastard pack. No driveshaft vibes! Nice surprise. Feels a little toed in, need to adjust that.

Locker is acting up though. Pops and unloads under all loads. Need to check clearances, this is the same issue the PO of the locker had.

[M4wdFab]

Worn cross pin or egged out case hole, out of spec

[Harrison]

Thinking about this... I've done welded rear in the snow, not too bad for someone used to trying to do donuts and fishtail around turns. Ie, not Hannah. No offense, Hannah.

How does a lunchbox in the rear compare? I thought the front was great and helped pull me around turns.

Would a limited slip be a good compromise for this thing's intended use as wheeler, snow commuter, and driving around town fun vehicle? I realize off-road ability would be affected, but would it be better than an open diff enough to consider doing? Trak-loc is sub $300.

Any other options I'm not thinking of here within a reasonable price range?

[M4wdFab]

that locker should act like a spool under load, and an open diff under coast.

in a turn as long as the inside wheel has enough traction not to spin in a turn the outside wheel will ratchet


usually an auto an aussie is pretty transparent, a stick some times gets some interesting things with drivetrain slop and hard shifting 

[Hannah]

i'm only understanding a few things out of this conversation...   

i definitely want to be able to drive it in the winter (on my long commute to work it has to be safe and good on the highway), but also have it good enough to wheel. maybe this summer just have it all open if we cant get the aussie to work, and then by next year have something in there?

[Wingman]

Limited slip or open the rear until she learns more.  And she will learn quickly so be ready.  She's a smart girl!

Even better, a selectable!

[mr.mindless]

Locker in the front will tend to push in the snow. Locker in back will tend to oversteer but I would say is much more predictable and finessable.

If winter street driving is a sincere goal, limited slips or selectable a is the real way to go. That said, if one has a sense for vehicle dynamics anything can be done and be fine. And if you drive off-road there's no much of a way to keep from getting that sort of sense


Tapatalking in traffic