Post by: mr.mindless on February 20, 2013, 01:09:15 PM
<Edited to remove broken images. Doesn't look like I saved them>
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Post by: mr.mindless on February 20, 2013, 01:10:22 PM
Post by: Wingman on February 20, 2013, 01:13:31 PM
Post by: rejeep on February 20, 2013, 01:18:36 PM
Post by: etk300ex on February 20, 2013, 01:22:52 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 20, 2013, 01:32:55 PM
When do you pick it up?
I land at CLT at 0845 on Saturday 3/16
Matt, I need to look at the front of your truck next week. I'm probably going to be flat towing a 3rd gen back north with me - Chad's wife's future truck, no drivetrain in it - will be getting a 12v. I'll ship my tow bar down there once we whip up some brackets.
Post by: Wingman on February 20, 2013, 01:49:22 PM
Post by: Ryan on February 20, 2013, 01:53:22 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 20, 2013, 01:54:52 PM
I think it needs a tuner to run right deleted.
Post by: Ryan on February 20, 2013, 01:56:58 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on February 20, 2013, 02:08:35 PM
I especially like the lack of Bed Sides! ;)
Post by: M on February 25, 2013, 09:37:59 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 25, 2013, 10:14:27 AM
'07 3500 6.7 6sp 4x2, 352k. White quad cab, black CM flatbed. Cab & Chassis truck.
Post by: mr.mindless on February 25, 2013, 11:42:04 AM
the '11 trucks got the next power bump, to 350/800, and 222hp braking. Must be a different turbo to increase exhaust braking that much.
Post by: M4wdFab on February 25, 2013, 11:57:51 AM
Post by: wnyjpgy on February 25, 2013, 03:02:43 PM
Due the the factory clutch andtransmission TQ rating the manual trucks are still 610 or 650tq ( I can't remember which).
My exhaust brake works well.
Post by: mr.mindless on February 25, 2013, 04:07:56 PM
Post by: Nick on February 25, 2013, 04:43:08 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 25, 2013, 05:10:44 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on February 25, 2013, 05:18:36 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 25, 2013, 05:42:22 PM
You prefer 225 or 245?
Post by: M4wdFab on February 25, 2013, 06:14:46 PM
Post by: M on February 27, 2013, 02:47:59 PM
guess Aaron cleans out his photobucket. I think I saved 'em
'07 3500 6.7 6sp 4x2, 352k. White quad cab, black CM flatbed. Cab & Chassis truck.
saw pics on FB. Nice rig!
Post by: KingtheZJ on February 27, 2013, 02:57:18 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on February 27, 2013, 04:07:45 PM
Post by: Ryan on February 27, 2013, 04:09:03 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on February 27, 2013, 04:11:51 PM
Post by: Harrison on February 27, 2013, 04:20:25 PM
Post by: Ryan on February 27, 2013, 04:38:53 PM
Over 8600 gross is exempt, right?The NYVIP is a program that includes a check of on-board diagnostic system (OBDII) on non-exempt vehicles that have a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) less than 8,501 pounds and that are:
Model year 1996 or newer gas-powered vehicles; or,
Model year 1997 or newer diesel-powered vehicles.
Post by: M4wdFab on February 27, 2013, 05:13:35 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 27, 2013, 05:20:48 PM
If that were to change change it should still pass a plug-in. Checks are disabled in the ECM with the tune. Otherwise it's be a limp mode machine.
Roadside inspection would be the potential issue. I've not heard of that for non-CMVs. Yet.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 01, 2013, 11:13:38 AM
Tires are at Talmadge, probably end up going over there with the truck once I have it since I don't think I can get (6) 245r19.5s in/on/around St. Michael comfortably.
Nothing else is an immediate 'must'
THMotorsports has the best price on them by $20, btw, plus has a 10% discount coupon on them.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 04, 2013, 03:38:34 PM
Pics are X'd. What was this rig?
I did find 2 that I saved. back in the first post.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 08, 2013, 02:38:37 PM
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Post by: rejeep on March 08, 2013, 02:40:14 PM
who do you think you are... ME!!
Post by: mr.mindless on March 08, 2013, 03:28:32 PM
I'll be able to see the true vitals except EGT on the way home with just a plug to the OBD port.
Post by: cracker on March 08, 2013, 03:49:27 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 08, 2013, 03:51:30 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 13, 2013, 01:35:39 PM
cross that bridge when I come to it!
http://lazarsmith.com/Transmission.html
Post by: Nick on March 13, 2013, 02:15:15 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 13, 2013, 05:22:41 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 13, 2013, 06:41:47 PM
Post by: Ryan on March 13, 2013, 10:18:17 PM
Ohhhhhh boy here we go again!!
Post by: Nick on March 13, 2013, 10:54:55 PM
Post by: M on March 14, 2013, 03:05:51 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 14, 2013, 10:43:36 AM
I'm picking it up Saturday. I fly out of ROC at 0600, really short layover at BWI, and land at CLT at 0845.
Post by: cracker on March 14, 2013, 11:01:26 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 14, 2013, 11:12:36 AM
Post by: awl4928 on March 14, 2013, 12:01:05 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 14, 2013, 12:18:28 PM
weight and power are abuse, yes. so a cummins and what I do abuses a transmission.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 14, 2013, 12:49:48 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 14, 2013, 05:46:13 PM
I don't know for certain yet if 18*18 underbody boxes will fit well but I'm hoping so. If they do, I've got a wide range of options. It looks like a 24" would fit behind the drives and a 36" in front. If I put all 4 on, that would be wildly more storage than I have now with a single tool box. I'm sure I could find more than enough crap to fill it.
I've priced out a few options, raw aluminum diamondplate would be a bit over a grand, and about 150#. I could get black steel off the shelf at TSC for $760 and just under 300#. There are some full stainless, and stainless-doored steel options too, around the weight of steel and around the price of aluminum. It'd be nice to find a Bawer, RCI, and Buyers dealer local so I could go touch 'em and compare to the TSC steel.
The weight isn't as much of a difference as I expected, but it'd be nice to have them stay looking nice for a couple years and I think that takes full steel off the table in this neighborhood.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 14, 2013, 05:52:47 PM
(http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TBM050.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TB131.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TB174.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TBM070.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TB301.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TBM060.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TBM040.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TB611.jpg)
(http://bb.m4wdfabrications.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=762.0;attach=1098;image)
Post by: M4wdFab on March 14, 2013, 06:30:14 PM
Post by: Wingman on March 14, 2013, 08:20:52 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 14, 2013, 09:03:13 PM
i was thinking.... that steel deck looks like it would support a bridge port a lot better than my bed.....By a long shot. Not sure what the tie down situation on it is but there are for sure some stake pockets at least.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 14, 2013, 09:07:58 PM
Go steel and keep up on them with paint. They'll last longer than you'll own...
I don't know about that. The lids on my steel box went to shit all at once, from inside the folds. It went from looking OK to perforation in maybe 3 months.
That box is about 8 years old, and it wasn't on the road in the salt for more than half of that time. To say nothing of relative location and road spray on top of the bed vs surrounding the drive tires.
I don't see steel lasting well. Maybe with some seam sealer, plus the paint. Maybe. I'd be more than happy to spend an extra couple hundo on future maintenance savings and keeping it looking nicer, longer.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 17, 2013, 03:06:52 PM
List that I came up with on the drive home follows. The codes wouldn't clear with the Edge for some reason, but were gone after I adjusted some settings with the Smarty Jr. They didn't come back on the 2 mile drive here. Not sure if they were flukes or occasionals. We shall see.
Washer fluid after the inside is clean.
High miler to do list
Px mirror glass
Missing backup light
Vent visors
Ebrake
Cruise
Seat cushion & covers
Interior detail
Tool boxes
Mud flaps
Trailer electrical socket
Paint wheels
Tires
Aux lighting
New HD drawbar (proper drop)
Change bed/goose?
Tint
Front air dam
HVAC & radio backlights
DTCs
- P040B (egr temp sens circ 1 underperformance)
- P1506 (crankcase depression regulator valve performance)
- P2267 (water in fuel sens circ high)
Washer fluid
Washer fluid light
Post by: mr.mindless on March 17, 2013, 05:04:08 PM
Fuck me! I may be placing telephone calls, or I may ignore it and go drink. Made it into a parking lot and Kim is in her way here
Post by: mr.mindless on March 17, 2013, 05:04:26 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 17, 2013, 05:06:24 PM
Post by: Wingman on March 17, 2013, 05:11:37 PM
Post by: Nick on March 17, 2013, 05:12:50 PM
Post by: rejeep on March 17, 2013, 05:19:47 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 17, 2013, 05:21:52 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 17, 2013, 06:35:37 PM
It's got a broken cross pin, stripped gears, or a broken axle shaft.
I'll be asking a favor of a truck tomorrow night. Gotta finish mounting a winch tonight when I get home from celebrations, then pull shafts and then pull a cover.
Long story short I took off hard on Jefferson once when I missed being in gear when the light turns green and I had a healthy clunk. Clunk repeated, waaaay worse maneuvering around a parking lot.
Post by: rejeep on March 17, 2013, 06:37:50 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on March 17, 2013, 06:46:10 PM
Post by: Ryan on March 17, 2013, 07:05:53 PM
Post by: awl4928 on March 17, 2013, 07:12:57 PM
Post by: etk300ex on March 17, 2013, 08:06:14 PM
Post by: dubt on March 17, 2013, 08:11:40 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 17, 2013, 10:57:26 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 17, 2013, 11:43:17 PM
Broken axle shaft. Best option. Just need to tear cover off and clean out. Aaaand find a replacement. Things to shop for tmw
Thanks for recovery help smike!
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Post by: Harrison on March 17, 2013, 11:55:12 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 18, 2013, 12:10:17 AM
Gotta make sure carrier is happy and bolts are tight.... Could have hurt the axles when the rear end blew up initially.
Post by: Nick on March 18, 2013, 12:13:26 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 18, 2013, 08:34:21 AM
scary sounding bling clutch that i would have walked away from lol
purrs nice.
hopefully its just a 200$ ebay shaft and some gear oil and she wont need a dump truck rear axle swap.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 18, 2013, 08:38:58 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 18, 2013, 08:40:15 AM
~150$ shipped
Post by: M4wdFab on March 18, 2013, 08:44:06 AM
http://www.righttoolusa.com/p/Aam-Dodge-11-5-Rear-Full-Float-Axle-Shaft-Drw-40-19-L-R-10501418.html?gclid=CJHuwKGlhrYCFQdU4AodqBcAgg
Post by: etk300ex on March 18, 2013, 08:44:54 AM
Post by: rejeep on March 18, 2013, 08:51:47 AM
the Dana 35 of the owing world.....
I see a 2 speed eaton axle in there shortly...
fuck it... 4x6!!!!
Post by: M4wdFab on March 18, 2013, 09:12:42 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 18, 2013, 09:19:45 AM
Just get yourself a civic and call it a day
I'd break that too
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Post by: rejeep on March 18, 2013, 09:29:23 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 18, 2013, 10:10:00 AM
air ride is an absolute must though - but I bet I could sell those springs to Chadley!
I left Doug at Extreme a voicemail about an hour ago, no call back yet.
Post by: Nick on March 18, 2013, 10:21:21 AM
Post by: luvmyxj on March 18, 2013, 10:23:59 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 18, 2013, 10:48:08 AM
The f550 rear axles are no joke!
Dana S110!
I think 4.44 is the shallowest gear available. Maybe 4.10.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 18, 2013, 11:02:40 AM
I can get stock (probably 1040) for $112ea or 1541H for $155ea - warranty is $30 for either.
Quote
YESAXLE $30.29
Add a Lifetime protection plan to your axle purchase. The Yukon Extended Warranty Plan is a no questions asked warranty for your Yukon axle. This plan is good for as long as you own your vehicle. The plan is non-transferrable if the vehicle is sold.
with a spare shaft to have in the toolbox that seems like an easy choice to go for stock, doesn't it?
$352ea for 4340 chromo. same YESAXLE plan and price available.
Post by: KingtheZJ on March 18, 2013, 11:09:37 AM
with a spare shaft to have in the toolbox
are they side specific?
i have no idea
Post by: mr.mindless on March 18, 2013, 11:11:23 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 18, 2013, 11:12:04 AM
with a spare shaft to have in the toolbox
are they side specific?
i have no idea
in a lot of axles you'll have a short and long side in the rear, but the AAM 10.5 and 11.5 use same length shafts.
Post by: rejeep on March 18, 2013, 11:13:14 AM
how does the R&P look?
Post by: M4wdFab on March 18, 2013, 11:33:13 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 18, 2013, 11:45:11 AM
id put two new shafts in and keep the old as a spare
already executed.
road side change of that shaft could be 5 minutes or 5 hours. keep that in mind for tool box items.
Good call. I'd not thought of the potential complications part.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 18, 2013, 11:45:42 AM
so was it just the axle...
how does the R&P look?
Judging from lack of noise, perfect.
didn't pull the cover last night.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 18, 2013, 01:29:20 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 19, 2013, 11:02:36 PM
Probably runable short term, but needs replacement.
Main bearing preload set like a 14b. Will be a cake swap. Would be nice to find one ASAP so I don't do this teardown twice.
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Post by: M4wdFab on March 19, 2013, 11:41:15 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2013, 09:35:01 AM
Gay. Call dodge, shouldn't be more than 150$
150? that sounds like production cost.
this think is worth double digits in scrap, I can hardly lift it out of the damn diff! it's got to be close to 100# of quality steel, with lots of gears inside (helical limited slip)
Post by: M4wdFab on March 20, 2013, 10:11:29 AM
150$ was my dealer guess lol
Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2013, 10:25:51 AM
production cost is about 13$
150$ was my dealer guess lol
multiply by ~15
parts dept cost $2635
Post by: rejeep on March 20, 2013, 10:30:19 AM
jsut for shits... whats the application on the complete rear end.. I can ask my guy at romano for a favor
Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2013, 11:35:08 AM
I just found an ARB listing as well (RD139). comparable price to the True Trac at $980 to my door from Autoplicity.
http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=24_47_455
http://autoplicity.com/products/558688-arb_rd139_air_locker.aspx
I'd somehow feel better about spending that money on a selectable locker instead of essentially a stock replacement part. I guess it's my upgrade-itis?
Post by: Ryan on March 20, 2013, 12:11:53 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 20, 2013, 12:30:47 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2013, 01:42:42 PM
Post by: Nick on March 20, 2013, 03:00:07 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2013, 04:25:58 PM
Post by: Ryan on March 20, 2013, 04:30:04 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2013, 04:36:52 PM
Post by: Ryan on March 20, 2013, 04:50:32 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 20, 2013, 04:55:15 PM
one wheel peal a lincoln locked tow rig!
Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2013, 05:12:44 PM
ECGS had a cheaper truetrack than I'd found anywhere else too, but still too much in comparison to the ARB price.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 20, 2013, 05:24:04 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2013, 05:34:32 PM
it'll be way more useful than a limited stuck in shittyness, and will be much nicer stability wise going down shitty roads. One wheel peel keeps you in a straight line. I was thinking about the white knuckle flat towing in PA and how an open rear diff would have been much safer on ice like that. That's what sold me.
Post by: etk300ex on March 20, 2013, 06:26:51 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2013, 06:29:17 PM
Post by: etk300ex on March 20, 2013, 07:17:42 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on March 20, 2013, 07:19:08 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 21, 2013, 12:03:06 AM
hurry up, bridgeports are moving haha
Post by: etk300ex on March 21, 2013, 07:40:14 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2013, 08:25:35 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2013, 08:33:47 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 21, 2013, 08:40:23 AM
Post by: KingtheZJ on March 21, 2013, 08:59:35 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2013, 09:29:27 AM
www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/Randys_Carrier_Bearing_Puller_Review
looks good, I think last I looked it was about $150
I don't think there's good clearance on this carrier for punches or a two jaw.
and if I ever have to pull the bearings off the ARB there definitely won't be on the air side - but that's hopefully years and years down the road
Post by: KingtheZJ on March 21, 2013, 09:32:30 AM
http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5277&Product=YT_P20&Brand=Yukon_Gear_and_Axle
i think they rent them out for something almost reasonable.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2013, 09:34:00 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 21, 2013, 09:36:12 AM
$370
http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5277&Product=YT_P20&Brand=Yukon_Gear_and_Axle
i think they rent them out for something almost reasonable.
That looks like the one he has, and he loves it. He is able to re-use a lot of bearings.
Just tossin more bills at this thing
Post by: Harrison on March 21, 2013, 09:47:03 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2013, 09:52:48 AM
National 3920 (race) & 3984 (bearing)
that's not a tool that pays for itself in one use. Have you pulled carrier bearings before? It's often a serious pain in the ass even when you're not planning to reuse them. The quick way is cut the cage, nick the race without nicking the case, and then crack it with a cold chisel, because usually a two jaw puller doesn't want to cooperate at all.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 21, 2013, 10:00:16 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 21, 2013, 10:02:13 AM
Post by: rejeep on March 21, 2013, 10:02:57 AM
for all the work required I would toss in a new set.. I have them here
I have removed carrier bearings with a press and a custom made arbor plate and a scrap of tube...
Post by: rejeep on March 21, 2013, 10:04:47 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2013, 10:15:58 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 21, 2013, 01:06:32 PM
they really arnt made to come off.
Post by: Nick on March 21, 2013, 02:21:19 PM
Post by: luvmyxj on March 21, 2013, 04:49:29 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 21, 2013, 05:13:20 PM
fix the broken bits, stop with the DB ;D
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2013, 06:19:22 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2013, 09:01:16 PM
I just checked my CC recent activity and the price charged is what he quoted for 2 15whatever shafts, plus $40 in shipping. Total bill is roughly what one 4340 shaft retails for.
I should probably call Dean and let him know in case he sees anything funny on his end.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 22, 2013, 10:41:00 AM
With 350,000 towing miles on them, they were probably pretty set in their stressed direction. If they were swapped side to side that could explain some pretty serious degradation in strength. They are equal length and were not marked.
Post by: rejeep on March 22, 2013, 10:42:18 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 22, 2013, 10:44:17 AM
just like Alex's tire rotation method! put em in a random pile and put em back on a couple times ;D
Post by: M4wdFab on March 22, 2013, 11:20:22 AM
shat just broke
id still be interested if the gear set wore out, or if it was and impact break. i guess thats why i had shops i dont know doing work. Chances are the carrier and shaft didnt change much from when they did the gear setup and your little trip home...
Post by: mr.mindless on March 22, 2013, 12:39:03 PM
agreed on hating others working on shat but unless you buy new that's just a risk that has to be accepted.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 22, 2013, 02:02:47 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 22, 2013, 02:06:31 PM
Hopefully I'll be over to press them on in short order.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 22, 2013, 02:27:48 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 22, 2013, 03:21:35 PM
Got only my fancy g56 fluid today (so that can blow up next!)
Post by: M on March 22, 2013, 08:35:08 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 22, 2013, 09:20:52 PM
I couldn't. After I pulled the trigger, I was told there IS one - but I still can't find it.
Post by: KingtheZJ on March 22, 2013, 10:15:55 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 25, 2013, 09:41:38 AM
A heavy dually with a spool on pavement is a pretty notable beast.
It drives like a damn champ. I can't believe I've only had it for a week and have had to do this much to it - but it's almost whole again.
I got it out from behind the trailer but should have just left the trailer where it was. I got stuck but at least got the truck back out even on ~40% highway treads.(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/25/3urageny.jpg)
I didn't take a pic of the piece of gear tooth on the trans magnet :-/
I'll be keeping an eye out for a G56.
Fresh Gorilla Juice in the trans, temp sender installed, arb all set, 4340 Yukon shafts. The only thing I didn't get to was drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold for the pyrometer.
Post by: etk300ex on March 25, 2013, 09:58:37 AM
Post by: M on March 25, 2013, 10:51:07 AM
your poor neighbors
I agree
Post by: M4wdFab on March 25, 2013, 11:01:50 AM
Post by: rejeep on March 25, 2013, 03:54:44 PM
in all honestly and I know you have good neighbors...
drop some of your shit off until the ruts clear up...
somebody is bound to notice and all you need is one asshole..
Post by: mr.mindless on March 25, 2013, 04:17:59 PM
Post by: rejeep on March 25, 2013, 04:25:07 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 25, 2013, 04:38:53 PM
Post by: Nick on March 25, 2013, 06:22:48 PM
Post by: dubt on March 25, 2013, 06:28:28 PM
Post by: rejeep on March 25, 2013, 11:05:08 PM
Post by: Wingman on March 25, 2013, 11:06:34 PM
Post by: rejeep on March 25, 2013, 11:09:39 PM
cant do that...
you also cant expand your driveway more than a certain percentage... I believe its 30... from the original footprint on record with the town.. something about a ratio of paved to unpaved..
Post by: etk300ex on March 26, 2013, 07:36:09 AM
Post by: rejeep on March 26, 2013, 08:29:50 AM
other things require permits or assesments...
towns can be real funny baout certain shit... found some of this out the hard way..
Post by: etk300ex on March 26, 2013, 08:41:46 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 26, 2013, 09:52:08 AM
i can help with functional 4x4 if you need.... wait dont you almost have a 42 dakota out back? lol
dead battery, flat tire.... bah.
it was an hour to park the trailer (I set it down on the very tail of of the flatbed and drove it right up) and fix-ish the lawn. Easy.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 26, 2013, 09:54:37 AM
both of those trees are coming down next month. I'd like to re-grade and widen the driveway after the maple is out. my driveway is in SHIT condition even ignoring its width. something to investigate this summer.
Post by: Wingman on March 26, 2013, 10:02:10 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 26, 2013, 10:17:25 AM
I need to go through my purchase paperwork before my refi meeting thursday to look for a few things, I think I have the drawing in there that I'm thinking of.
Post by: rejeep on March 26, 2013, 10:21:29 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 26, 2013, 10:35:09 AM
2.6% 15yr fixed. I'm happy.
Refi some other debt at 4.79% 5yr fixed/ no origination fee too. I'm really liking this place.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 27, 2013, 01:11:46 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 27, 2013, 02:58:35 PM
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Post by: awl4928 on March 27, 2013, 05:30:19 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 28, 2013, 11:53:28 AM
Post by: etk300ex on March 28, 2013, 12:37:30 PM
Post by: M on March 28, 2013, 05:29:10 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 28, 2013, 05:39:39 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 30, 2013, 12:24:36 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 30, 2013, 10:35:16 AM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/30/4u3a9ura.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/30/hede3e4e.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on March 31, 2013, 11:58:04 AM
Tires are about 5.9% taller.
Can definitely tell the tires are wildly heavier too. Above 60 is ride degrades a bit. Can tell the additional unsprung rotating weight is there. Very little squirm though especially compared to the last new set. Duals are close but made no contact, they're at 105psi. May drop that a bit. Jared, what would you say would be safe minimum? 90? I was thinking of trying 90 rear 100 front and see if it smooths out a bit. The shoulders of the drives don't touch empty right now. Steers do.
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Post by: Nick on March 31, 2013, 12:05:04 PM
Post by: etk300ex on March 31, 2013, 01:53:38 PM
Post by: jacel86 on March 31, 2013, 02:37:19 PM
Post by: rejeep on March 31, 2013, 02:49:30 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 31, 2013, 09:35:05 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on April 01, 2013, 07:38:46 AM
HdR's are rubbing on the rear?
Post by: jacel86 on April 01, 2013, 07:46:17 AM
Under 19.5's look at the xds2 in your size. Should give you a nice idea of where you should be for best wear and fuel mileage.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 01, 2013, 10:39:07 AM
She looks good.
HdR's are rubbing on the rear?
no evidence of touching each other at 105psi with the load of Subis.
they tuck inside the railing of the bed, they've got miles of clearance for travel.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 01, 2013, 10:43:01 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 01, 2013, 10:44:54 AM
i have had a vibe since they were new at 47mph
Post by: mr.mindless on April 02, 2013, 12:41:43 PM
px mirror glass is on backorder, but my second favorite supplier had one in stock so that's ordered.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 02, 2013, 12:43:47 PM
i run 90 on my truck, its good.
you have a shorter wheelbase. also, the bad section of 90 near BUF is after 190, and between x40 and I481 this side of cuse. those are both better with this truck than dumpbus (I'm 6" longer now. and yes she likes it)
the approaching-Victor piece of 490 is much worse in this truck than the last.
Post by: jacel86 on April 02, 2013, 01:00:45 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 02, 2013, 01:02:21 PM
when Troy and I went to Air Cooled in NJ I tried every speed from 40 to 80 and it was unbearable at any of them.
loaded coming back was OK
Post by: mr.mindless on April 04, 2013, 09:28:55 AM
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Valley/V69890.html
It's "only" rated for 25k/5k, but looking at scale tickets I think ~5k is the most tongue weight I've ever had. Need to see how 12x14.5" will work with the existing deck hole, I think pretty well. I'm assuming the size is close to the Reese version. http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/8339.html
A turnover is the other option, this Reese without rails is a very nice price and rated for 30k/7.5k. No dimensions given and I'm not sure how I'd modify it to actuate from above the bed.
http://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck/Reese/9460.html
For a little more money yet, this one wouldn't need any modification to use from above the bed. I can't help but think that a sliding pin mechanism would get shitted up a lot faster than a tilt ball mechanism.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Draw-Tite/6300.html
Post by: M4wdFab on April 04, 2013, 09:31:42 AM
Post by: cracker on April 04, 2013, 09:58:36 AM
http://www.buyautotruckaccessories.com/product.cfm/cf-bin/pn.curt-over-bed-bent-plate-gooseneck-hitches/
sitting in my barn I would sell to you for $50(plate ball and stationary loops) It was originally in my 98 F150 I can get you the measurements tonight.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 04, 2013, 10:35:13 AM
Post by: rejeep on April 04, 2013, 10:57:00 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 04, 2013, 11:19:57 AM
didn't see them until I looked by brand. they have a few others too. that's a 30k/6k folding ball.
Post by: rejeep on April 04, 2013, 11:22:24 AM
$120.. in dayton..
Post by: mr.mindless on April 04, 2013, 11:33:44 AM
Post by: cracker on April 04, 2013, 11:55:40 AM
Post by: etk300ex on April 04, 2013, 12:27:46 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 04, 2013, 12:40:16 PM
mine and matts B&W work easy other than needing a second hand to pull the lever
Post by: mr.mindless on April 04, 2013, 12:56:17 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 04, 2013, 01:00:33 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 04, 2013, 02:16:13 PM
Anything with pins on linkages seems like it should get terrible quickly too, though. and I'd be drilling holes through the flatbed frame to run any of those handles over to the dirtynastyness of the wheel well.
this looks really spiffy, retractable instead of turnover.
http://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck/Curt/C60640.html
meh. The folding look so simple and pry-able. what can possibly go wrong?
Post by: M4wdFab on April 04, 2013, 03:12:08 PM
Post by: Nick on April 04, 2013, 07:38:06 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 04, 2013, 11:52:45 PM
Crowded in there.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/05/zubumyhe.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/05/huge6asy.jpg)
I dropped the damn (non magnetic) fitting and had to take the intake off the turbo. Getting that piece out was more annoying than tearing a rear hub off for naught.
Ebrake will be happy again once I get seals. Parts all look good but the friction material is all gone, and oil soaked to boot, at least on the px side.
New hitch all set. Receiver in the bed is pretty sloppy. It's been a lil abused.
Post by: JEEPWERX on April 05, 2013, 07:53:54 AM
rotted out fold down balls suck.
mine and matts B&W work easy other than needing a second hand to pull the lever
Must be an open bed / rochester salt thing. I remove my ball from my B&W when not in use on my F350. Handle works fine after 2 years.
We also have the curt 30k turnover on the F550. Works perfect with normal greasing. I have noticed a little wear and on the ball & pin but it disappears after greasing. 70k of nothing but towing... nothing too unexpected. My buddy @ Custom Truck Creations was looking into a replacement ball pin but I think we both forgot.
But I guess once again... this truck and hitch never see salt.
Id say buy a case of spray lube from Nuway and rock on. ;D
Post by: M4wdFab on April 05, 2013, 08:24:13 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 06, 2013, 03:00:11 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2013, 09:06:08 AM
Dakota can't hook to the trailer either. Too tall, too little clearance. Had to safety chain it to the front bumper to move it.
That was an hour of fml. At least the trailer looks great. White Eagle is going in it tonight followed by Ram parts worth saving for sale.
Post by: jacel86 on April 08, 2013, 09:10:04 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2013, 09:16:41 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 08, 2013, 11:15:29 AM
she is readdy for mud truck spectating!
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2013, 11:46:43 AM
I should see if the Dakota starts today, and if not throw a Dump Bus battery in it along with the replacement battery cables it'd need to have a non-sidepost battery.
No power steering at all. needs work. bah.
Post by: M4wdFab on April 08, 2013, 12:04:23 PM
Dont wreck things, call Matt or I with 4x4 lol
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2013, 12:24:59 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 16, 2013, 08:50:27 AM
Just need to decide on how dark on this one
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Post by: rejeep on April 16, 2013, 08:53:32 AM
Post by: etk300ex on April 16, 2013, 09:49:43 AM
That guys prices are sooo crazy! that would be 350 at the tint shop. not to mention it will be done by time you walk to the coffee shop and back
Post by: mr.mindless on April 16, 2013, 10:41:53 AM
Post by: KingtheZJ on April 16, 2013, 10:46:48 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 16, 2013, 11:00:01 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 16, 2013, 11:02:12 AM
Jetta had a purple tie-certified 33% all the way around, probably 50% film over stock glass. That was really light. I had been thinking of just matching the stock rear side windows which should be ~35%...
Descisions!
Post by: etk300ex on April 16, 2013, 11:12:15 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 16, 2013, 11:15:43 AM
Do the math! (it says the back is half the transmission of the sides but feel free to gloss over that part)
Post by: mr.mindless on April 20, 2013, 04:51:20 PM
Hopefully I can get a hand on that from smike at some point. Cut out the old, weld in the new!
Post by: mr.mindless on April 21, 2013, 11:30:23 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 22, 2013, 11:50:16 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/23/a3a7amyq.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on April 22, 2013, 11:54:54 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: cracker on April 23, 2013, 07:56:04 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 23, 2013, 08:39:45 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 23, 2013, 08:45:22 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Wingman on April 23, 2013, 09:37:49 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 23, 2013, 09:57:13 AM
PPD?
Thanks Mark, curious myself haha
Post by: M4wdFab on April 23, 2013, 11:56:14 AM
PPW piss poor welding
every failure is one or the other
Post by: mr.mindless on May 05, 2013, 01:44:24 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/06/ujy7a8e5.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/06/ezege2un.jpg)
Spent a couple hours hanging with the Kellers last night too. Fucking awesome time
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/06/metuhuvu.jpg)
Guess which is the wig
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: etk300ex on May 05, 2013, 04:12:55 PM
I would like to check out centralia one if these days
Post by: mr.mindless on May 05, 2013, 04:16:09 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: dubt on May 05, 2013, 05:11:05 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 05, 2013, 11:27:29 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/06/jyty9e3e.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: rejeep on May 06, 2013, 08:53:14 AM
what and where is this?
Post by: mr.mindless on May 06, 2013, 09:01:34 AM
Post by: rejeep on May 06, 2013, 09:17:18 AM
yeah I was hooked on finding ghost town in NY a while ago...
went to one in the catskills...
Post by: etk300ex on May 06, 2013, 09:29:42 AM
Post by: etk300ex on May 06, 2013, 09:35:11 AM
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5102/5680735437_da8e85589a_z.jpg)
Post by: etk300ex on May 06, 2013, 09:38:53 AM
(http://members.toast.net/rikoster/photos/Eagle/Centralia/IMAG0252.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on May 06, 2013, 09:38:53 AM
There are some fresh repairs to the non-rerouted road, and it looks like the cemetery is having a new rear entrance prepared; I think they're going to have to move more of hwy 61.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 06, 2013, 09:40:14 AM
I made a mild attempt to get onto the closed road but my first effort got me frame contact so I backed off. slight adjustment I probably could have driven right over, or it looked like the north side had an easier entrance.
Post by: etk300ex on May 06, 2013, 09:45:52 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 06, 2013, 09:51:36 AM
Post by: CJ on May 06, 2013, 02:05:16 PM
[attachment deleted by admin]
Post by: mr.mindless on May 18, 2013, 12:11:12 PM
Have a bent rear swaybar link.
Truck came with a spare rear rotor so I'm all set. Just nasty seal leak cleanup to do.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/19/bara6eza.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/19/uhuva8yt.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/19/reba3aqu.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 23, 2013, 11:42:06 AM
Since the driver side was in great shape, I didn't change any parts on that side. Adjusted both and the ebrake works great!
Lowered all tires to 75psi, it rides much nicer than at 105. That should be approx. right for the front axle and is probably still WAY more than I need for the rear. I'll have to keep an eye on tire bulge when I get a heavy trailer on there again to make sure sidewalls aren't contacting. They're relatively close but with the combined weight rating still around 12,000# at 75psi I don't expect much bulge.
Finally caught a replacement airbag cheap so I have a pair of them coming. Apparently on the slow boat from china with a mid-June est. arrival.
Found a cheap set of vent visors on fleabay too. "free money" spent on both of these things with Discover rewards and some un-transferred truck parts money in the paypal acct.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 23, 2013, 02:49:43 PM
Found a cheap set of vent visors on fleabay too.
Fools think 2500 and 3500 have different cabs. Lol.
Mega or quad? Confirm. /conversation ::)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 24, 2013, 10:19:39 AM
Needs front legs trimmed and installed. it'll get some pad and carpet at some point.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/24/9ata7ypa.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: KingtheZJ on May 24, 2013, 10:26:33 AM
this way he wont piss on the seat ;)
Post by: mr.mindless on May 24, 2013, 10:29:03 AM
Post by: rejeep on May 24, 2013, 10:32:13 AM
Post by: Wingman on May 24, 2013, 10:32:41 AM
Post by: Nick on May 24, 2013, 10:34:07 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 24, 2013, 11:00:36 AM
plywood in the beautiful truck o my!
Post by: mr.mindless on May 24, 2013, 11:29:42 AM
he'll be coming home in a crate - we'll have to see how he travels... have plenty of old towels and some blankets for him. good idea to grab mom's scent.
Post by: etk300ex on May 24, 2013, 12:19:15 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 24, 2013, 12:35:17 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: awl4928 on May 24, 2013, 01:17:44 PM
Post by: etk300ex on May 24, 2013, 01:44:43 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 24, 2013, 02:51:30 PM
how old was yours Alex?
Post by: awl4928 on May 24, 2013, 10:04:14 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 25, 2013, 12:33:26 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on June 18, 2013, 06:58:42 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on June 19, 2013, 12:30:37 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2013, 11:51:17 AM
Didn't reset.
65-67 on the way back it was up to 19.6, so ~21.3 avg.
Be interesting to see what pump numbers give me and if the overhead is still the usual 10-15% optimistic.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on June 24, 2013, 12:18:20 PM
Post by: etk300ex on June 24, 2013, 12:22:36 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 24, 2013, 12:25:54 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2013, 12:53:26 PM
If you know a and c, and that c is the average of a and b...
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on August 20, 2013, 08:39:26 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
[attachment deleted by admin]
Post by: luvmyxj on August 20, 2013, 05:32:15 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 20, 2013, 05:54:42 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: etk300ex on August 20, 2013, 07:11:45 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 20, 2013, 07:14:55 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Ryan on August 30, 2013, 12:34:02 PM
http://www.cjcoffroad.com/product_p/cjc-flbk.htm
Post by: Ryan on August 30, 2013, 12:37:07 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 30, 2013, 12:48:40 PM
I'm still keeping an eye out for the proper trim rings though. I would like a pair of those HIDs in there. Not a fan of the square-peg-in-round-hole look.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Ryan on August 30, 2013, 12:56:57 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 30, 2013, 12:58:39 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 02, 2013, 03:17:37 PM
Check gauges came on and stayed on leaving for dog class today, PIII told me I was at 12.1v. Let it idle through class since I wasn't 110% sure about restarting. Got home at 11.75v. No defrost and having to crack a window was a bit annoying. Nothing obviously loose or disconnected. Have had it on 15a charge for 2 hours now... Alt looks like a pain to remove w some egr cooler remains in the way.
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
Post by: Nick on November 02, 2013, 04:40:09 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on November 02, 2013, 07:55:01 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 02, 2013, 08:02:05 PM
A wire brush fixed my zj!
I thought you'd tried cleaning terminals. Good news!
These terminals look absolutely pristine. Low and steady voltage while running points strongly to alternator IMO.
I still have the one from Dumpbus. I give that a 4% chance of fitting.
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on November 04, 2013, 11:31:45 AM
17$ sorry, dont remember what this was for but....
Post by: KingtheZJ on November 04, 2013, 11:46:32 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 04, 2013, 11:58:20 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 27, 2013, 09:32:44 AM
Before I did the second half of the work at lunch yesterday and installed the rear socket I double checked the pinout and all was good except for the thing that forced my hand on redoing the wiring in the first place: the +12v from the battery hadn't been wired in at all before, but the RD/VT wire that's supposed to carry is is dead. Key off or key on. So I need to track that down now, or run a new wire from the front of the truck. Shitty.
I haven't tested with the P3 standalone on the trailer with the hydro actuator but I have this sinking feeling that it's not going to do any better after getting this all fixed as far as thinknig it doesn't have a trailer connected even though it's set to hydro, and is supposed to all play nice together.
Post by: Ryan on November 27, 2013, 09:42:49 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 27, 2013, 09:45:59 AM
I think all fuses are good, I looked at the labels yesterday and only saw dedicated for trailer lights not the 30a battery feed. Need to recheck wiring diagrams. There should be a trick I get to play with existing wires to give myself an auxillary backup light activation switch too but I didn't get to test that without the battery feed at the rear and I couldn't find the underdash plug I need. That gives me switched power in the cab for a few things that I've so far just been good about not leaving on, too.
Post by: Ryan on November 27, 2013, 10:06:48 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 27, 2013, 04:03:09 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 28, 2013, 01:08:06 AM
Put in pigtail for rear plug but did not install. Taped off unwired ends. Rest of harness is sealed again and halfway dressed.
Need to hole saw for rear plug next to lic plate and wire it. Need to make sweet panel and hinge for mid-deck plug. Need to fix backup light relay on trailer and think about replacing the forward mounted backup lights. Need to find under dash plug and wire backup light override switch and make use of ign-switched power for ARB trigger and radar detector power supply. Tested the backup light override and it works as expected. I miss that switch from the old truck for night work, loading, and tailgating assholes with brights on.
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Post by: mr.mindless on December 17, 2013, 02:15:39 PM
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Post by: etk300ex on December 17, 2013, 03:35:58 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on December 17, 2013, 03:40:23 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 17, 2013, 03:41:10 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 30, 2013, 09:33:31 AM
Drained it for the 5th? time at Smike's shop, the water in fuel light came on leaving my house for Kim's as I was getting on 390! Drained it at her house, thankfully it started fine at 15Ëš this morning. No light yet. I put a half bottle of Howes in it, hoping against hope that it did some magic overnight. I was planning to run this tank real low, then refuel with the other half bottle of Howe's and change the under-4,000 mile filter ( :( ). If I keep getting WIF lights every 30 miles I may throw a filter on it sooner than later in case it's something else weird.
I called the station last night after I got to chez nord and the Mike I spoke to there said he wasn't aware of any other reported issues yesterday. Weird.
Post by: rejeep on December 30, 2013, 09:37:05 AM
people swear by it
Post by: mr.mindless on December 30, 2013, 10:34:01 AM
Post by: Nick on December 30, 2013, 10:48:34 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 30, 2013, 10:55:20 AM
Post by: Nick on December 30, 2013, 10:58:31 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 30, 2013, 11:01:31 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 01, 2014, 01:16:00 PM
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Post by: etk300ex on January 01, 2014, 02:07:37 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on January 01, 2014, 08:46:21 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 01, 2014, 08:58:00 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/sy9ade6a.jpg)
This is what the fuel looked like. I don't think howes makes it cloudy like that but dad thought it may. It looks to me like gelled fuel looks. Pressure is fine though. Going to let it settle inside in warm temps and see what comes of it.
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on January 01, 2014, 09:16:39 PM
the 4300 could have used an ARB getting up JC cabin road, but she was doing work at 25800lbs with Buggy and zj. scaled after fueling on my way south.
Pleased it started and did not crash into ditches
Post by: rejeep on January 01, 2014, 09:36:25 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 03, 2014, 09:28:28 AM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/myzahumu.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/ade2eqa2.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/yte7uny3.jpg)
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Post by: rejeep on January 03, 2014, 09:32:44 AM
Post by: Wingman on January 03, 2014, 09:35:21 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 03, 2014, 09:37:01 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on January 05, 2014, 01:51:51 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on January 25, 2014, 10:44:42 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 11, 2014, 09:36:17 AM
Fueled and reset things at the rez east of grand island. Overhead was almost to 29mpg at one point before climbing out of Hamilton, I drove careful and got it back from a 27.5 low to 28.1 arriving here in London about 130 miles later.
Wonder how much of a lie that is.
Actual number upon fillup this morning: 19.9
overhead was saying 26.9 at the time.
I don't think I get to say this anymore
Quote
Worst it's been at fillup is 15% off.
Fuel gauge was accurate the entire time, zero issues.
Post by: M4wdFab on March 11, 2014, 09:43:28 AM
Post by: etk300ex on March 11, 2014, 09:47:22 AM
I should check my mileage by hand one of these days.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 11, 2014, 09:57:16 AM
I even do it on the Eagle, which has no trip meter (that's REALLY annoying, especially with the needle swing that fuel gauge has and how nice it would be to know miles on the tank at a glance)
I've seen 17 actual several times, usually with the overhead saying 17 (except once when it said 13.8). So I was hoping this could be higher. I'm curious what threw it off, and if I was significantly better westbound when I was only doing 65 than on the return doing 70+
Fun games to play. I can't complain about 20mpg in this thing. It may yet steal the title for favorite vehicle from the Jetta. And yes I liked the Jetta better than the Dumpbus overall.
Post by: etk300ex on March 11, 2014, 10:13:25 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 11, 2014, 10:13:58 AM
mileage.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 16, 2014, 05:27:34 PM
Fed it some extra air pressure since I'm trying to lock an ice cold diff. Think I may have screwed up the solenoid. It's leaking where I don't think an air port is (bottom as-installed, can't see). I've had light oil on the vent for some time. Need to verify the axle air vent is clear and that I don't have a line full of oil. Some seem to have that issue as I do (very minor amt) for year without problems. Others have big leaks from bad o-rings. Others have just enough oil contaminating things to gum up the works.
I guess I'll see if this locks up when warm when I check the axle breather. I'm not sure the truck is moving until it's warm. Frozen around all 4 tires :(
Same shit could happen on any edge of my crapgasmic driveway, so I'll stow any of that bitching.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 16, 2014, 06:35:01 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/17/uhe2esad.jpg)
Post by: rejeep on March 16, 2014, 06:47:34 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 16, 2014, 06:50:35 PM
Warm tires, cold day. All are in 2-5" divots. Only 4x4 or the locker working AND no ice under the pavement side would get me out. I'm np205 shopping now.
Post by: Nick on March 16, 2014, 07:10:13 PM
Post by: rejeep on March 16, 2014, 08:11:26 PM
Oh mike, I'll come rescue you with my race car jeep on bald snows just to add to the shame
Post by: mr.mindless on March 16, 2014, 08:16:00 PM
Post by: awl4928 on March 16, 2014, 08:40:51 PM
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Post by: rejeep on March 16, 2014, 08:46:00 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 16, 2014, 08:51:52 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 16, 2014, 08:54:19 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 16, 2014, 09:48:59 PM
Just sayin it is Rochester after all
Post by: mr.mindless on March 16, 2014, 10:38:07 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 19, 2014, 10:05:15 PM
Still had to rock it and work for it pretty good.
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 03, 2014, 09:19:52 AM
Want to put a pressure gauge on the comp. May add a tank and make the comp come on with ignition when I rewire accessories, then just switch the solenoid. tcase will be air shifted; air horns would be nice sometimes too :)
There are several solenoid replacement options if needed. I do get oil contamination in the line, reading that I did suggests that really cleaning out the line can help things work as they should, but I'd figure that the gear oil on the wrong sides of the seals in the locker doesn't help things down in the diff either. Full disassembly is the only way to clean that out. I think lots of miles unlocked lets the oil weep past that seal when it's not under pressure. I didn't check the axle vent tube for restriction when I installed, that's another common means of contamination since if the diff builds any pressure it can really help oil get past that seal. I know it doesn't leak since I've let the thing sit for an hour or two locked and the compressor never kicked on - with no tank.
Still need to finish trailer wiring stuff, and I'd still like to get the toolbox deleted from the front of the deck and get a couple boxes underneath. Have some thoughts and plans for ramps as bedsides too, for tractor/atv/minitruck loading. Going to make them 10-12' long with a nested fold, probably build from 2"x.120 angle. Need to check some per-foot weights and make sure I'm not thinking of 150# ramps. I would like them to be under 50# ea so that may mean steel frame and aluminum tread?
Post by: Wingman on April 03, 2014, 09:38:26 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 03, 2014, 09:41:07 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 07, 2014, 10:26:31 AM
Doesn't look like too big a job to pull the injectors to have them tested.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/07-5-09-3rd-gen-6-7l-performance-parts-discussion/400343-how-removing-head.html
I'm at the end of my oil change interval, thinking of sending it to Blackstone to see if I've got more fuel in there than I should before digging in since it's so subtle. Would be nice to catch an issue before catastrophe for once though.
Post by: Nick on April 07, 2014, 10:29:37 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 07, 2014, 10:32:39 AM
Remember I had that really watery tank of fuel too, if the f/w filter didn't do 110% of its job that certainly could have done some damage :(
Post by: Harrison on April 07, 2014, 10:38:39 AM
Time for the stadadyne fix. I would try that before you go do anything else
FYI I bought some Power Service Diesel Kleen in the grey bottle at Walmart this weekend for the Benz. It smells just like Stanadyne and seemed to work just as well at knocking down smoke and power loss from wmo. Cheaper and easier to find.
Maybe getting the real stuff would be best for something like this though.
Post by: Nick on April 07, 2014, 10:43:36 AM
Time for the stadadyne fix. I would try that before you go do anything else
FYI I bought some Power Service Diesel Kleen in the grey bottle at Walmart this weekend for the Benz. It smells just like Stanadyne and seemed to work just as well at knocking down smoke and power loss from wmo. Cheaper and easier to find.
Maybe getting the real stuff would be best for something like this though.
I actually bought that stuff a month ago or so for the car it definitely smells the same and helps a little but I not as much as stadadyne.
I think if you put the whole 250 gallon treatment bottle that will definitely do something. They have it at D&W
Post by: mr.mindless on April 07, 2014, 11:08:49 AM
Searching on that I see a LOT of 7.3 'stroke stuff.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2014, 12:22:52 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 08, 2014, 06:38:25 AM
Post by: rejeep on April 08, 2014, 08:28:07 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2014, 08:39:22 AM
Post by: rejeep on April 08, 2014, 08:50:35 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2014, 08:52:21 AM
the C&C may make a difference, I think the motor is rated lower than the pickups. Uncertain if they use the same Bosch p/n and it's all in the computer (I bet that's the case). 07 should show 5.9 or 6.7
Post by: etk300ex on April 08, 2014, 09:00:18 AM
Post by: rejeep on April 08, 2014, 09:01:01 AM
available.. special order, but available
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2014, 09:10:05 AM
Eric - common for the pickups to be tuned closer to the edge and the medium duties that are nearly the same the be derated for durability since they're expected to have heavier use. C&C 3500 gets the same ratings that the 4500/5500 get. I think you can get the HD auto tranny in it too but not the pickup. I could be wrong on that one.
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2014, 09:52:57 AM
suggests not wasting time on computers and looking at the actual sticks. reassuring.
apparently they're pretty busy and expect 2-3 days to get through them. Hopefully that's a long estimate and not short. They're open 0730-1700 so I may try to pull 'em over a 2hr "lunch" to get them over today.
Post by: rejeep on April 08, 2014, 10:41:57 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 08, 2014, 09:19:16 PM
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Post by: M4wdFab on April 09, 2014, 07:57:09 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 09, 2014, 08:20:08 AM
Just dropped the injectors off at D and W. Sounds like I should not count on having things back together for the weekend, they said expect more like a Monday – Tuesday sort of thing. What are your and Matt's hauling plans? I know you're planning on leaving Friday at 11... If it can't happen it can't happen. It's felt like quite the rushed project already.
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Post by: M4wdFab on April 09, 2014, 08:30:58 AM
ill probably end up taking my black trailer down.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 16, 2014, 12:13:49 PM
#5 (looser holddown) has a bad alignment roll pin.
#1 & #6 have out of spec high return. #5 & #2 are on the very edge of return limit.
#3 & #4 are good.
uugh!
Post by: mr.mindless on May 06, 2014, 05:36:16 PM
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Post by: KingtheZJ on May 07, 2014, 09:34:39 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 07, 2014, 10:33:28 PM
Not only do I need to see if I broke the tappet and retrieve the ball off the end of the pushrod that broke off while I was prying it out, but I also need to retrieve the first magnet that I sent in after said ball.
Very very last rocker. Apparently I missed the tappet when I reinstalled the exhaust rocker on number six. Exhaust rockers need to come off to do the injector holddowns.
Unimpressed with QC on injectors. Had some damaged threads - one shortened itself - and some soft plastic parts appeared to be superglued (and two of those no longer are)
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 08, 2014, 07:58:38 AM
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Post by: JEEPWERX on May 08, 2014, 07:59:50 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 08, 2014, 08:03:08 AM
http://m.harborfreight.com/high-resolution-digital-inspection-camera-with-recorder-60695.html
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Post by: rejeep on May 08, 2014, 08:46:35 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 08, 2014, 11:14:10 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 08, 2014, 03:13:36 PM
Need to see where I put the second motor spare parts I guess. google search for the p/n I got from Cummins Quick Serve just now turns up a bunch of 5.9 24v results.
Post by: cracker on May 09, 2014, 08:45:09 AM
Anyone have a HF 20%er or coupon for their bore scope?
I just got one via e-mail.. if you still need it or did not get one yourself.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 09, 2014, 08:56:03 AM
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Post by: cracker on May 09, 2014, 09:22:18 AM
https://www.dropbox.com/s/44joiridusgzv92/HFCoupon.pdf
Post by: Harrison on May 09, 2014, 09:59:48 AM
Post by: KingtheZJ on May 15, 2014, 01:01:56 PM
http://buffalo.craigslist.org/hvo/4402250092.html
replace?
Post by: mr.mindless on May 15, 2014, 01:42:24 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 22, 2014, 12:30:22 PM
So hopefully there's little to no rain tonight and I can go fishing!
Post by: mr.mindless on May 22, 2014, 01:43:50 PM
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Post by: M4wdFab on May 22, 2014, 02:41:39 PM
Post by: rejeep on May 22, 2014, 02:43:07 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 22, 2014, 02:50:36 PM
I can hook it up to a computer and post pictures of it too. Or micro sd card.
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 22, 2014, 09:21:32 PM
Left the cam in the garage. I'll post the pics and vids I took sometime later.
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Post by: M4wdFab on May 23, 2014, 09:06:19 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 23, 2014, 09:31:37 AM
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Post by: Nick on May 23, 2014, 12:14:17 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 23, 2014, 12:22:50 PM
ill admit i have started doing this with buggy diff fluid lol
Post by: mr.mindless on May 23, 2014, 12:23:16 PM
also, explain how it'll cause damage from within the oil pan, eh? what am I missing here?
Post by: Ryan on May 23, 2014, 01:33:56 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 23, 2014, 08:05:50 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on August 22, 2014, 09:01:23 AM
I think I need a steering box. Truck has developed some play, and it's getting worse. Box is leaking. It's always had a drip, but when I parked it yesterday it was several drips. bah!
Post by: mr.mindless on August 22, 2014, 09:03:27 AM
Quote
Front; 4WD; Power steering; WARNING: If the driver of this vehicle is experiencing "wandering" or "chatter", the likely root cause is frame flex, which causes excessive stress on the gearbox. Frame flex is common in this application and a brace will help combat this issue.
hundo plus core for the cheapest reman retail cost, that's nowhere near as bad as I was expecting.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 26, 2014, 09:28:05 PM
Upper track bar bushing is shot. That's the only play in there.
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Post by: TrailTamer on August 28, 2014, 03:32:58 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on September 11, 2014, 12:01:41 PM
http://elmira.craigslist.org/hvo/4617220349.html
Post by: Nick on September 11, 2014, 12:17:23 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 11, 2014, 12:39:35 PM
Ratios look awesome. Can't find widths. Not sure I want to try to move my exhaust outside the frame again.
Should save the weight and go 9/10 speed. I don't need splits at all with the power band of the CR engine. It's as happy at 1400 as it is at 2600 and it REALLY pulls from 2500 well past 3k
Post by: mr.mindless on October 23, 2014, 11:36:33 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 24, 2014, 08:03:26 AM
Arie, you'll have an email shortly...
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Post by: rejeep on October 24, 2014, 09:24:04 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 02, 2014, 02:56:47 PM
Belt routing is insane on this thing. And fan and shroud are super tight to the motor.
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Post by: mr.mindless on November 03, 2014, 07:25:59 PM
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Post by: M4wdFab on November 04, 2014, 12:27:03 AM
crazy
what do i need to talk to VW to see what pissed off mine climbing on the trailer? i still have techII access
Post by: mr.mindless on November 04, 2014, 07:43:39 AM
Wish the same thing existed for Mopars.
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Post by: mr.mindless on December 06, 2014, 09:29:46 AM
Dead fuel gauge, water in fuel, maybe injector issues again...
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Post by: M4wdFab on December 06, 2014, 09:45:23 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 06, 2014, 09:56:00 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on December 06, 2014, 10:57:55 AM
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Post by: Harrison on December 06, 2014, 12:25:19 PM
Post by: rejeep on December 06, 2014, 12:29:11 PM
or Mike not known for his luck with trucks... hmmm
Post by: mr.mindless on December 06, 2014, 04:41:05 PM
Definitely have damaged in injector, running on five leaving Batavia. This seems really familiar – and really pisses me off!
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Post by: etk300ex on December 06, 2014, 06:19:19 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on December 06, 2014, 07:34:44 PM
Post by: rejeep on December 06, 2014, 08:47:00 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 08, 2014, 01:16:10 AM
Considering bringing it to whatzits diesel by the post office to see if they can diag the dead hole for me so I don't have to pull all. OTOH last time it gave me two failures and two questionable, should probably test all :(
Their in house remans were about the same price with no wait, they're Bosch certified too. Probably just get them there.
Looks like a bit over 200 for a prebuilt filter setup. (water plus 2 micron) Need to see what my framerail fuel lines look like to see what I have to tap into if I try to piece something together cheaper. And find out what filet base I need.
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Post by: mr.mindless on December 08, 2014, 01:16:53 AM
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Post by: rejeep on December 08, 2014, 09:32:14 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 08, 2014, 09:42:30 AM
Post by: cracker on December 08, 2014, 09:50:30 AM
I REALLY wish I had decent space to work on this damn thing.
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my offer still stands if you want to come to Honeoye.
Post by: Harrison on December 08, 2014, 09:55:02 AM
Have you ruled out water ingress on the truck is the first question I guess.
Post by: mr.mindless on December 08, 2014, 10:01:17 AM
I just don't see how I could possibly get what seems to have been at least a pint of water if not more from a single 43 gallon fillup.
Post by: M4wdFab on December 08, 2014, 10:08:05 AM
Post by: M on December 08, 2014, 01:36:49 PM
There's no way to hold fuel stations liable for this type of thing?
A gas station here in my town had contaminated fuel. They covered all engine replacements/repairs, no hassle.
Post by: M4wdFab on December 08, 2014, 03:41:06 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 08, 2014, 03:43:54 PM
I just paid half the cost of one injector on some fancy fuel filtration. Hopeful to never have issues like this again...
Post by: M on December 08, 2014, 10:41:39 PM
id call bs on that
http://www.wnem.com/story/26354008/enmark-in-rincon-warns-customers-of-bad-gas
Post by: mr.mindless on December 13, 2014, 02:21:47 PM
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/d6cf55a5a95682e1fb33858844212086.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/5ca3f7e9d7f1503dd950c74ee963437f.jpg)
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Post by: rejeep on December 13, 2014, 06:54:36 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 18, 2014, 04:12:59 PM
All failed.
fawwwwwk me.
Post by: M4wdFab on December 18, 2014, 04:16:11 PM
Post by: etk300ex on December 18, 2014, 04:25:53 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 18, 2014, 04:46:08 PM
I'd suggest preventing this to both you and Ryan. The stock filters just plain aren't good enough. I had drivability issues before I had a water in fuel light. I won't hog it home next time that happens either. Not sure WTF the plan is for that without a drain on the fuel tank...
Less than the cost of one injector, and about an hour to install:
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VP-MAX-Dual-Remote-Filter-Kit-p/drff.htm
Post by: rejeep on December 18, 2014, 04:53:40 PM
http://www.fitchfuelcatalyst.com
Post by: mr.mindless on December 18, 2014, 05:10:41 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 18, 2014, 11:44:30 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on December 19, 2014, 11:21:32 PM
Both filters taking out some water. Planning to run tanks very low with lots of Howes and draining filters every 150-200mi. Fuel gauge has been fine.
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Post by: Nick on December 20, 2014, 01:04:12 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 20, 2014, 03:22:46 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 16, 2015, 09:03:46 AM
Aaaand I noticed a miss on my way home. I think it may be time to sell this thing down the river if it really has eaten more injectors. Seriously, wtf?
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Post by: M4wdFab on March 16, 2015, 10:36:46 AM
Post by: rejeep on March 16, 2015, 04:17:30 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on March 17, 2015, 08:43:50 PM
Find out where water is coming in! I don't have problem with diesel I buy from fastrac and Hess near RIT. Although I run a 12v.
Post by: Nick on March 17, 2015, 10:16:49 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on March 17, 2015, 10:54:01 PM
I'll bet it'll run ok on a cup of water in the tank, not 5 gallons haha.
P-pump it!
Post by: mr.mindless on March 17, 2015, 11:32:41 PM
Maybe 1/4t in the donaldson(?), and about maybe a bit more than 1t in the factory.
I read of vents on top of the tank on other 3rd gens, need to look.
Wtf though, are the filters there for looks?
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 18, 2015, 03:40:08 PM
hopefully a harness issue; otherwise at least maybe it's only one problem stick and an electrical problem at that.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 22, 2015, 01:30:45 AM
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Post by: rejeep on March 22, 2015, 07:53:42 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 22, 2015, 04:05:58 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 28, 2015, 06:25:32 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 29, 2015, 02:09:13 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 30, 2015, 10:31:52 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 20, 2015, 07:02:46 PM
Feeling mostly better, and was going to swap the bad ABS sensor. Found the wire cut right at the knuckle. So much for finishing that right now I guess.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/2b0efce92005970d6ab4ee545ee208d2.jpg)
Nothing moved closer in but I'm about to try again. Thoughts appreciated.
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Post by: Wingman on April 20, 2015, 07:15:15 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 20, 2015, 07:26:16 PM
And on what?
Destroy rotor?
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Post by: rejeep on April 20, 2015, 07:27:32 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on April 20, 2015, 07:28:52 PM
You're replacing the wheel bearing? Idk if they're the old school spindle type or unit bearing??
If you're repacing the unit bearing, use sledge hammer on back of unit bearing's flange. Keep the nut on so it will not separates when pounding on it. This always worked for me. Although the ones I did was not 3/4-up ton trucks but they was rusted in solid. My 12v's unit bearing actually just 'fall out' when I took them off.
I think Mark is referring to a slide hammer that attaches to the wheel lugs, you use lug nuts to secure the slide hammer on.
Post by: TrailTamer on April 20, 2015, 07:31:02 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 20, 2015, 07:33:31 PM
don't be afraid to stick scrap 3/8" plate in between stuff and socket extension to not just blow through them
Post by: mr.mindless on April 20, 2015, 07:41:40 PM
Correct. Bent the 1/4" bracket instead of moving the unit bearing. bearing is good so I'd much rather not destroy it. Just need to get under it to replace the ABS sensor.
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 20, 2015, 07:42:31 PM
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Post by: Wingman on April 20, 2015, 07:55:03 PM
Pic worth 1000 words!
Post by: mr.mindless on April 22, 2015, 06:57:43 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/22/0c1085d83889c5dab5d7189115520561.jpg)
I just set cruise control for the first time ever! It's only been something like 25 months and 35,000 miles…
If only I had also not just noticed that Dodge completely fucked my alignment when they did the steering recall, I'd be a happy camper!
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 01, 2015, 05:23:05 PM
Ready to burn it.
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Post by: rejeep on May 01, 2015, 06:35:42 PM
a little sketch and i don't know how computers would recognize a forging vin
Post by: mr.mindless on May 03, 2015, 10:02:58 PM
Grey market from where? Could be interesting for other projects...
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Post by: rejeep on May 04, 2015, 08:04:53 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 19, 2015, 12:44:47 AM
A yearling ran into the side of me while I was paying attention to avoiding traffic as the body of deer #1 spun off into the left lane from the big truck I was following about 1/8mi ahead of me. Not sure if it was deer #2 or #3 that got me. May have been one other?
It did go deep enough to get the rocker too. Paint on the outside of the rocker didn’t crack. Haven’t looked inside.
Didn’t call it in, hopefully the photos are enough evidence...
Humbug. Worst animal strike I’ve had by far. Previous record was a cracked slat in the jetta grille. I’d much rather take one in the side than deal with bumpers into tires or cooler stack damage. Nothing else I could see aside from blood and shit. Brakes and fuel lines good, trailer skin looked unscathed.
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Post by: JEEPWERX on September 19, 2015, 10:38:46 PM
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Post by: mr.mindless on September 20, 2015, 12:02:57 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 23, 2015, 02:56:59 AM
Right side bad ball joints done. Feels much tighter on the road. Had to be loose for tens of thousands of miles. Steering recall didn’t get me a fresh free alignment, it just cost me tires :(
I’ll check the lefts, probably not do them for quite some time unless clicky is found.
Insurance adjustor will be here in 5 hours to do a deer damage estimate.
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 23, 2015, 08:51:07 AM
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Post by: dubt on September 23, 2015, 09:03:44 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 23, 2015, 09:11:26 AM
Mine is nothing but 3 panels of pull dents, block, and paint, along with needed r&r and blending.
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Post by: dubt on September 23, 2015, 09:14:13 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 02, 2015, 10:03:06 AM
Things are wet, no clear leaky spot, could be pump lines or box. Only thing difinitively dry is all around the hydroboost.
Also noticed oil with dye on the bottom of the AC compressor while I was under there. Boooo.
Post by: mr.mindless on November 29, 2015, 04:25:51 PM
Still need an inspection, oops. My wheel is also pointed closer to 1 o'clock than to noon. Nothing personal, but this is why I hate having others work on my junk. Bah.
Pretty sure I have fresh trans noise. Noticed it my last trip, louder howl than usual under no-load than under coast, neutral, or acceleration.
Appear to have a damn miss again. I have parts to make a kill box now to identify the bad hole now at least.
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Post by: KingtheZJ on November 29, 2015, 09:04:57 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 29, 2015, 09:13:02 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on November 29, 2015, 09:13:43 PM
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Post by: KingtheZJ on November 30, 2015, 06:58:34 AM
Post by: jacel861 on November 30, 2015, 07:04:02 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 07, 2015, 10:15:50 AM
Need to twist the drag link adjuster and then going to swap the valve cover seal+harness and see if the misfire cleans up.
Popped a code Saturday, #2 again. Will start swapping parts and also build an injector kill box from my spare parts to further diag if the harness doesn't take care of it.
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Post by: mr.mindless on December 12, 2015, 05:15:18 PM
So fed up working in the dark in my driveway. Deal with the POS tomorrow. Grump grump.
Putting the old Cummins part back in tomorrow I guess. Hopefully a rocker didn’t grab an out of place wire and trash/ contaminate things.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/bae4744319f162ab7593efc4ca1c2925.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/3de74a1e42922965d7f05e1bce727ccb.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/9d85fba229ac81660954a91957e0dd49.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/12/b915bc0e72ba53d651114d29c6bb8129.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on December 13, 2015, 04:40:11 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/13/5cb618e763b65ec6894ab15e915d8173.jpg)
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Post by: rejeep on December 13, 2015, 08:52:26 PM
I checked and all use the same zip tie nonsense.. whats OE?
is OE mopar or cummins parts?
mopar number?
so many reasons I'm asking and I really can't get into why... at least not yet..
Post by: mr.mindless on December 13, 2015, 11:41:04 PM
Take a close look at the comparison pic, there are nice molded channels for the wires to follow on the oe piece.
Let me know if you want some better pictures. I’m not trashing it since I’ll be waiting for that nicked wire to fail anyway. I may put it back in...
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Post by: mr.mindless on December 13, 2015, 11:44:31 PM
superceded pn 3975641
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Post by: rejeep on December 14, 2015, 09:54:05 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 14, 2015, 10:51:01 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 16, 2015, 04:11:38 PM
Another $400 down the toilet! Yay!
Post by: rejeep on December 16, 2015, 11:20:58 PM
Can you send me an email summarizing the issues you have had...
Want to send to GB vendor also pictures of gasket ... Basically everything that has failed or is troublesome.
Post by: mr.mindless on December 17, 2015, 09:27:40 AM
what I can't put together is the truck, was going to do it on lunch today but the injector they had in stock wasn't there. have to go over tomorrow morning too. I love driving around before I ride my bike to work so much I just can't fucking describe it.
Post by: Harrison on December 17, 2015, 02:41:17 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 17, 2015, 02:47:47 PM
Post by: Harrison on December 17, 2015, 02:56:06 PM
Sounds like most aftermarket clutches use SMF. Probably worth doing when clutch needs replacing and allows a mild power bump or just ditching torque management.
Post by: mr.mindless on December 17, 2015, 04:33:53 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 18, 2015, 01:32:10 PM
They did right by me for wasting two trips: gave me a jobber price on the injector and saved me about $60, and sent it to me at work via courrier. I got it like 2 hours ago.
now that's how to make up for a fuckup and keep a satisfied customer. The money they'll continue to make off of me and those I send there more than makes up for that little cost to earn that goodwill out of something that would give a bad impression. Why is it that I'm so impressed by that level of service these days?
Post by: rejeep on December 18, 2015, 02:12:49 PM
if you're going to pay more.. they better make it worth your wild
Post by: mr.mindless on January 10, 2016, 11:42:29 PM
The vent did have a hose on it, but it was short, level, uncapped, and VERY dirty. I'm quite certain I found my water contamination source.
I ran a much longer hose all the way up into the headache rack. I should have dry fuel as long as I'm not fording anything up past my windows now. Running better filters now after replacement as well - and the water filter has a sight bowl so I won't need to blindly sample. I can lean down and just look.
Here's to hoping for the end of issues. Hopefully none of the injectors currently in there are fatally wounded. I'm certainly surprised at the most recent one.
Next up: carrier bearing. Rubber is cracked. Should probably PM ujoints at the same time.
Post by: mr.mindless on January 13, 2016, 08:11:27 PM
Including that 5, put in 52.5 in a 52.2 gallon tank.
I think I’ve put in 51 poon the road before. Maybe I shouldn’t push it so far :)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 29, 2016, 07:10:37 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160529/4eb8b4609723219316e4112861d5c039.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160529/20b6b0fa138d4bb93361d93953a670fc.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160529/34f8c8bd3a54c5eeaca938386a39e588.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160529/4acd0e434d932545c350ba21c52dc9d5.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on May 31, 2016, 10:48:52 AM
I want a 20" single row on everything I drive. Better than high beams.
I was hoping the spot beam would be good for a fog light but I think I'll have to tip it WAY down for that, and it might still be too messy of a pattern. I'll play with that later.
Decent amount of wind noise from the big bar. I'll decide this weekend if it stays or goes. I think it's "noticeable but not objectionable."
Post by: mr.mindless on May 31, 2016, 10:53:35 AM
I see some have luck with door edge trim on the fins, that'd leave plenty of cooling surface but I don't understand how that would change the wind profile much...
Post by: Ryan on May 31, 2016, 12:01:08 PM
I took mine off because its too much wind noise..... It annoyed me on long trips.
The 20" are all that is needed, perfect light output and in a better spot for not blinding you with hood glare.
Post by: matt on May 31, 2016, 12:07:13 PM
I have one mounted on the front bumper of the dually and love it. Like you said, it is enough.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 31, 2016, 12:10:35 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M on May 31, 2016, 02:08:56 PM
I wanted to put a light bar behind my truck grille... but I think I can fit in something larger than 20"
Post by: mr.mindless on May 31, 2016, 02:38:22 PM
https://www.lifetimeledlights.com/led_lights/20_led_light_bar_20_inch_led_light_bar
Post by: matt on May 31, 2016, 02:41:37 PM
https://www.lifetimeledlights.com/led_lights/215_120w_amber_white_led_light_bar
But it is 21.5" though
Post by: mr.mindless on May 31, 2016, 05:26:08 PM
Post by: M on May 31, 2016, 09:57:55 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 31, 2016, 10:04:58 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Ryan on June 02, 2016, 01:54:34 AM
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Post by: M4wdFab on June 02, 2016, 09:10:26 AM
Post by: Ryan on June 02, 2016, 09:35:35 AM
Should say "much more betterer"
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2016, 03:21:43 PM
I just talked to South Bend, Aaron there sounds pretty concerned about the small pieces I heard hit the bellhousing, so I guess I should do something about that sooner than later. $600 plus shipping out of pocket for an exchange-for-new on the street dual disc. That seems pretty reasonable.
Only hesitation I have on that is that the transmission has been running significantly warmer for the last 3000 miles or so than it has in the past. Previously, I'd only trip my trans temp warning at 220Ëš on the VERY hottest of days, running heavy, in the hills, without stopping for 500 miles.
I'm now hitting that temp by the hill climbing out of Dansville with the single car enclosed trailer, and seeing peak temps of 260.
I just changed the fluid after about 50,000 miles. No significant chunks. No decrease in temp after changing.
Post by: M4wdFab on June 07, 2016, 03:26:09 PM
no inspection cover on the bel housing to identify parts? id think you would want to do that asap before doing more damage to starter/ringgear/ plates ect
Post by: mr.mindless on June 07, 2016, 04:04:27 PM
Maybe my bore scope might be able to see something?
As much as I keep looking and dreaming, priorities dictate another 1-2 years of service for this unit.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 16, 2016, 04:46:38 PM
I'd like to find a service manual for endplay specs and shim specs, and it looks like the jig on the second page of the thread would be very valuable if not neccessary for setting shims.
I think I'm planning to open the trans and do a visual on all gears and bearings, and set proper shimming for input/output shaft play. I've got to have a bearing going out or something along those lines with the huge temperature increase I've seen in the last ~5k miles even without seeing bad things on the magnet. I think a freshened clutch and going through the trans may help piece of mind for a future buyer too. I know I'd like to see that with a 400,000 mile truck. It wouldn't be worth any money to me but it would help me overlook the milage that would otherwise turn me off.
Post by: rejeep on June 16, 2016, 05:18:12 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 16, 2016, 07:00:59 PM
Post by: rejeep on June 16, 2016, 10:31:17 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 16, 2016, 10:48:55 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 16, 2016, 11:26:38 PM
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Post by: KingtheZJ on June 17, 2016, 07:26:18 AM
I'm willing to assist as needed. feel free to borrow my press that has the modified "table" for pressing large gears.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 17, 2016, 09:44:14 AM
I expect to need to replace bearings ($120 on fleabay, should just push the button and resell later if they're all fine) and I expect to have excessive input shaft play which indicates need to re-shim.
I hope to find all gears spinning smoothly on the mainshaft and to have no chipped or pitted teeth. I have no synchro complaints at all, so as long as they all spin smoothly and the mainshaft looks good I'm not going to pull anything off.
Post by: Harrison on June 17, 2016, 10:15:18 AM
I expect to have excessive input shaft play which indicates need to re-shim.
What is considered excessive? I checked mine with motor out, no in/out but probably has 1/16" - 1/8" in either direction of float. Didn't find much info on it, aside from post 2 in this thread which was enough for me to stop worrying about it.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/530681-g56-imput-shaft.html
Quote
If you are talking about side to side to play with the G56 actually REMOVED from the truck, some movement is actually ineveitable, because the front of the shaft is no longer supported by the oem bushing at the center of the dual mass flywheel. In ohter words, with the tranny removed from the truck, the entire input shaft is supported ONLY by the main bearing at the back of the bellhousing, which is actually near the center of the shaft (in terms of length) so when you move the front of the shaft from side to side, it WILL move, though when installed, it no longer can move because it is supported by the bushing at its very front tip. I hope that makes sense.
None of that is to say that should be ALOT of side play when checking for play with the tranny removed. When my G56 was out of the truck for a clutch upgrade, I could move the front of the shaft almost more then 1/8" in each direction, though NOT in and out. The dealer and 2 different tranny shops told me that this was normal, so I finished the job, re-installed the G56, and have absolutely NO shifting problems or noises.
Another way to check for bearing wear in the input shaft bearing is to look for discoloration of the bearing or tranny case from overheating, or actaul stress cracks in the case where the bearing sits, or even check to see if the actual bearing is loose or not properly seated in the tranny case. Those ARE signs of too much wear from overheating or overpowering the aluminum case of the G56. Also, IIRC, there should be NO end play (in and out)
Hope that helps some.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 17, 2016, 10:29:01 AM
http://docslide.us/documents/dodge-g56-service-manual.html
reading up on
Quote
ADJUSTMENTS
MAINSHAFT/COUNTERSHAFT BEARING PRELOAD
CAUTION: This procedure must be performed any time a mainshaft, countershaft or input shaft bearing or shaft is replaced. Failure to follow these instructions will result in damaging the transmission.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 17, 2016, 10:57:40 AM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162086462523
Post by: mr.mindless on June 17, 2016, 02:05:28 PM
I expect to have excessive input shaft play which indicates need to re-shim.
What is considered excessive?
Service manual indicates shimming to zero clearance on the bearings, so no in/out would be the key.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on June 18, 2016, 07:45:57 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/48e5886fdcc83cbf55be27eff6aacf7d.jpg)
Then I got it out and found the bad stuff
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/459585398598361332d493a10599cb4c.jpg)
Source:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/47676887c9bd897b36c8d9a10dce7a98.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/dfc064b0f8737353866a10edb6a993b8.jpg)
Intermediate disc disintegrating at the pins
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/89eefb77b7cf68175b8af8ea641de77f.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/2848b39bf4ff6e709fef8999587c4234.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/df59aa687073d3aebcd073596d80b563.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/464e21cd70cfacb032cdab0a941c9b20.jpg)
Throwout bearing spins smooth but very dry. Fingers not happy with it.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/17b1ba64a836a704a7db2fbfbd5a48a1.jpg)
Starter teeth warn pretty badly. Flywheel is fighting coming off the crank so I haven't checked it's teeth carefully yet
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/8f6097d78ae74a05e295947e58f3f56d.jpg)
Gif, you up for a little aluminum welding project? :(
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: rejeep on June 18, 2016, 08:30:00 PM
5 sprinters
2 NPRs
Cargo vans
Numerous Jeeps
Yup. I see it ;)
Post by: mr.mindless on June 18, 2016, 08:32:42 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Wingman on June 18, 2016, 08:38:41 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 19, 2016, 12:05:05 AM
Countershaft bearing boss is full of cracks. I thought at first they might be casting marks but some show through to the other side.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/6a1f6357471cfe5cde7a202e0ce07e73.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/460244e6a32af7489f05f4baec605477.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/ce4e15d25863c1fa90dd768e3520d316.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/8badaf9a62083ea33d02b724ca242bad.jpg)
5th gear has 2 chipped teeth. I guessed that was the case when I bought the truck. Amazing the countershaft looks fine. Countershaft 6th has one tiny burr, no damage on 6th. Bearings all look perfect, nothing cooked nothing rough nothing of note.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/8075315830b75034d2e8ca843fb8b11f.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/f5f8cc57e1592e5c9fba6672b432fe88.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 23, 2016, 02:52:17 PM
_Awesome_ service especially considering I was up front about it being at least third hand to me. Shame about the backorder.
Hopefully I’ll get out of work before 9 today and have a chance to check out the bearing bosses in the case. Have all the rest of the parts here now.
If the bosses and case are not cracked I’ll be looking to get that bellhousing welded up and be good to go.
I’ve been looking into HD units and there’s an engine adaptor bolt pattern change on the dodge/ram common rail from the standard b and c series since the 80’s. All common rails need an o ring seal at the cam shaft but dodge moved one or two bolts in that vicinity as well. Haven’t gotten good photos or diagrams on this but found two sources saying so. fancy shit there brings that back to even money or worse plus more work to go that route.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on June 23, 2016, 02:59:08 PM
Insane. And plenty to rip through a single disc when towing heavy.
New clutch will be hybrid, too - not full ceramic, so it should be less grabby. Good with the 3.42s.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: matt on June 23, 2016, 04:30:44 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 23, 2016, 04:31:20 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 27, 2016, 04:52:10 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 04, 2016, 06:40:48 PM
Rt(o)95xx or rt(o)66xx are smaller.
Finally did a little polishing. No cracks evident past the surface.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on July 11, 2016, 11:10:03 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 15, 2016, 08:52:05 AM
Hopeful for complete assembly Saturday.
second radiator will be here today as well, hopefully I can work on the car and get the big bits of that wrapped up Sunday.
Fangers crossed.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 18, 2016, 12:05:54 AM
Clutch on yesterday. Trans assembled today. Hopefully it goes in as well as it came out instead of as poorly as it went together.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on July 18, 2016, 09:27:05 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 18, 2016, 02:02:18 PM
integrated bellhousing.
Post by: M4wdFab on July 18, 2016, 02:06:55 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 18, 2016, 03:05:42 PM
Old bearings looked decent, but hundreds of thousands of wear.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on July 18, 2016, 03:15:04 PM
what fluid you putting back in it?
Post by: mr.mindless on July 18, 2016, 05:06:26 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 19, 2016, 10:21:59 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: rejeep on July 20, 2016, 08:06:42 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 20, 2016, 08:23:28 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2016, 09:57:46 AM
needs a test drive to say Newburgh and back ;)
Newburgh NY? I could travel along 84 on my way home next Thursday if it helps anything. Don't wanna bite into Mike's sidework though!
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2016, 03:29:10 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Wingman on July 20, 2016, 03:54:08 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2016, 04:08:13 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 23, 2016, 10:06:29 PM
Clutch is much nicer for manuvering too. Its half organuc half ceramic; slips more kindly.
Need to do ujoint and check ac pressures. Lost effective cooling. Time to see how bad that compressor seal leak really is.
Ill throw a can at it, if that lasts less than a year it’ll get swapped and fixed right.
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Post by: mr.mindless on July 24, 2016, 11:12:57 PM
Pinion bearings feel loose enough to give a through check with parts on hand. Bah.
I don’t remember if I touched the pinion when I did the ARB install. I should have just had to set backlash with a carrier change I think? Don’t remember.
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Post by: mr.mindless on July 31, 2016, 08:49:44 PM
so now the AC is taking a shit.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 12, 2016, 11:44:09 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on August 13, 2016, 09:58:18 AM
That 30 pounds in my garage right now was an effective investment.
Compressor, desiccant and oriface tube, please!
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 17, 2016, 06:56:37 PM
Arb o ring is gone too. Compressor runs and air comes our the vent. Boo.
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: mr.mindless on September 20, 2016, 07:40:21 AM
Quote
Typical service life of the o rings is many years. They are "bathed" in gear oil and typically last many years. I suspect you probably have a nick or cut in the copper line to the seal housing causing your major air leak.
We recommend a minimum air pressure of 70psi all the way up to 150psi for proper engagement and use.
O rings can be purchased through most vendors or 4 Wheel parts. They are p# 160246SP. sold as a pair.​
I guess we'll see once I can take the truck down for a bit. Probably check return policies and just stock up on all possible needed parts
- pinion bearings
- pinion seal
- find a speedy sleeve for the worn pinion yoke seal surface. I measured that last time I changed the seal, no idea where that went...
- arb o rings
- arb seal housing
- 5mm air line repair kit
Post by: mr.mindless on September 20, 2016, 07:43:46 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on September 20, 2016, 08:57:11 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on September 20, 2016, 11:50:00 AM
and I guess an AC compressor, drier, oriface tube and some oil belong on a list too. maybe I'll put that off 'till spring at this point.
We literally should combine our trucks' a/c problems to have two trucks with good A/C.
My truck's a/c is broken but in a completely opposite way. It gets WAY too cold, kinda feel like as if I open a freezer. If I let it running long enough I'll get zero air flow due to the evaporator all iced up. I need to turn the a/c off perodically to keep the ice down.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 20, 2016, 12:30:57 PM
I don't remember if there's an evap temp sensor on the 2nd gen but if there isn't I'm not sure how they are supposed to prevent that. There probably is one and it's probably failed. IDK if there could be any way to get to it without pulling and splitting the HVAC box
Post by: TrailTamer on September 20, 2016, 12:39:21 PM
and technically no, overcharge don't make a/c colder. overcharge will act similar to undercharge (cycling, mostly due to too high pressure on hot side).
I plan to literally tear down my dash down to firewall eventually.... I will need to do that to put in the dash I got from you in like 3 years ago? Major job to replace the dash so I am holding it off until I have everything I'll need to do everything else while I'm there anyhow... heater core, evaporator, some hvac door actuators (none are broke right now but might as well replace the ones that's not easily replaced when all assembled, 20 years old now and 300k, so something has to give anytime soon) and rewire most, if not, everything behind the dash and possibly new, custom cluster to get my gauges off my a pillar.... I only can do so much...
Post by: mr.mindless on September 20, 2016, 01:39:40 PM
will plan to do this work the week of 10/1
Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 05:24:29 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 05:25:07 AM
rear diff and ARB parts all ordered from justdifferentials including a listed speedie sleeve for the pinion yoke seal.
will plan to do this work the week of 10/1
Wow, fail. Haven't touched that. Arb started working again though.
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 05:32:32 AM
I want a 20" single row on everything I drive. Better than high beams.
Missed this a LOT this trip. It died. I get a tiny flicker when power is applied and removed.
It's been wet inside for a while. I'm sure the board turned green :(
Not sure I'll have a chance to double check power is good before next trip but I don't think I'm that lucky.
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Post by: Ryan on June 04, 2017, 09:16:13 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2017, 01:52:55 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on June 05, 2017, 07:14:02 PM
Needs pads and rotors. Weeee
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170605/882b49b66e246728bed10813c26ab02b.jpg)
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Post by: Nick on June 05, 2017, 09:24:18 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 05, 2017, 10:58:52 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 06, 2017, 08:14:03 AM
Hub pilots suuuuck
I imagine real truck wheels are even more fun.
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Post by: Nick on June 06, 2017, 10:43:20 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on June 06, 2017, 02:09:06 PM
I was wishing for a porta power.
Hub pilots suuuuck
I imagine real truck wheels are even more fun.
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back in days I worked at a heavy equipment repair shop and there's this one Mexican, he has to be shorter than any of us in the flx club. He deal with stuff like this day to day basis, along with clutch jobs in 18 wheelers. One of hardest workers I know.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 08, 2017, 09:26:25 PM
also found wet gear oil so that's getting changed.
ac is almost done.
going to work now to optimize daylight use.
solid last minuting.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 30, 2017, 11:40:40 PM
exactly how I want to spend my saturday morning!
Post by: mr.mindless on July 15, 2017, 08:29:22 PM
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Post by: rejeep on July 16, 2017, 09:22:21 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 17, 2017, 11:20:43 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on July 17, 2017, 11:30:03 AM
I drove my dodge for ~102k miles since 2011. At 302,xxx miles as of today. Bad blow by, though. I think it's from WMO.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 17, 2017, 11:36:10 AM
blowby was almost nill then, I haven't checked it lately. No elephant hose on this, I still run PCV into the intake as factory. I should probably replace that filter, I think it's supposed to be a maintenance item. I should probably replace or clean the nasty K&N too, it's finally almost all the way down to the red line on the filter gauge. It's been "well filtered" since I bought it.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 12, 2017, 07:49:44 PM
Little pinion play. Master install on the shelf. Not making any noise, I bet the pinion but is loose again. It's getting a weld on reassembly if it is. I've retightened it 3x since arb install.
Maybe I get to crawl under there Friday. Buggy prep and tire repair Thursday. Don't get to take tomorrow off, just thurs-fri.
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 20, 2017, 08:24:47 PM
I can't wait for this weekend! It'd better not rain.
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 22, 2017, 12:39:58 AM
I guess I need to check all ball joints and tie rods and track bar and unit bearings and whatever else real closely. Nothing feels loose in handling, no wobble or dead spot, but I feel that click through the wheel and I do not like.
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 24, 2017, 10:03:13 PM
One case bearing mildly spun, on the arb seal housing side. I’ll stake the case a bit with a punch before installing new. I figured one new all now so I pulled the other was well. It was super tight.
Seal housing retainer wore through the copper line, that was the point of failure there. I bent that in a little so it won’t be able to rub again. Surprised at the case wear where the o rings ride. Gotta be a couple thou. I can’t find my goddamn calipers to put a number on it so I hope old pinion depth is good.
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 25, 2017, 06:51:22 PM
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/125-drivetrain-2001-2010/462098-11-5-aam-torque-spec.html
Post by: mr.mindless on September 27, 2017, 04:44:55 PM
Drive side looks like pinion is a hair deep, if it’s going to move any from here it’ll go a hair shallower once crush sleeve is locked down. Coast side couldn’t look better which is indicator for setting up used gear sets. I’ve convinced myself.
If I get this together maybe I’ll go to the meeting tonight but I think not. More interested in solving work problems that I left running at the office this afternoon so maybe I get to Utah.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170927/cb19f8ab6c4c9dadbaaf7f00ead859c9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170927/f1a2f634ca9d6e481a5b2079724eb50b.jpg)
I think I definitely caused some gear wear. Backlash currently at .006-.008 around the ring. One notch tighter it was at .002-.006.
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Post by: mr.mindless on September 27, 2017, 10:11:11 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 13, 2017, 10:54:57 PM
Gearset is definitely quieter than it had been.
I should find my ir temp gun. Curious about rearend temp and also curious if my turndown goes low enough or if I’m going to cook a shock bushing out.
Front end still has the rattle that made me put in a steering shaft along with replacing the box. Going to go through ball joints and bearings tomorrow, maybe driver side ball joints are bad. Passenger were done maybe 10k ago. Passenger just got a bearing too.
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 17, 2017, 05:39:17 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 21, 2017, 04:37:18 PM
Maybe shocks?
Rattle 90% gone. Steering super nice. 110 miles of functional cruise control and counting. Not too far from doubling miles driven with cruise under my ownership. Hopefully LF speed sensor routing is now safe... third try a charm.
Put 1/8 turn on most oil pan bolts. See if that dries up a wet side of the pan.
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Post by: mr.mindless on December 30, 2017, 10:15:49 PM
1. Don’t have clearance to pull the hinge pin for the turnover ball. Box steel crossmember under the bed is fully in the way. Didn’t feel like cutting that out to weld it back together tonight. Need a box wrench or a crescent that goes just over 1 3/8â€, probably 36mm, since the opposite crossmember blocks socket access.
2. Gear oil inside the driver side wheel and on the backing plate. I thought I just did hub seals this summer along with all the other rearend work but I guess I get to do one again. That should be fun.
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Post by: mr.mindless on January 03, 2018, 11:21:31 AM
Hitch looks like it'll work well. Need to build out a box, the stringers are a few inches further apart than I was hoping for.
Hopefully I can get a hand on that from smike at some point. Cut out the old, weld in the new!
it's fun rereading this thread.
need to unbuild part of this box for maintenance almost 5 years later. Hard to believe I've had this thing for almost 5 years. If it weren't for the pre-broken axle shaft, and the poor factory tank venting, this thread would be much shorter.
Early pics before the CM bed rusted to shit make me a little sad. I'm looking at cheap aluminum toolboxes right now. Think I'll pull the trigger and try to get at least 2 on before CA. Should be a day or two of work to mount all.
Post by: mr.mindless on January 03, 2018, 11:34:40 AM
Fuel line is frozen. Started fine this morning but I only got to drive about 3/4 of a mile. Kim and the mule saved me! eagle didn't have enough juice to start.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/myzahumu.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/ade2eqa2.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/yte7uny3.jpg)
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
oh man, good times!
this was the most recently before now that we had a real winter!
Post by: Harrison on January 03, 2018, 02:02:45 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 03, 2018, 02:07:36 PM
I've got a little smoke going right now; 2 grey bottles ready to go into the tank at the next 2 fillups.
Post by: mr.mindless on January 08, 2018, 01:37:03 PM
Feed +12 from 2 sides, molded in, via scotch lock. Twice. And ground through an aluminum rivet.
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Post by: mr.mindless on January 10, 2018, 10:15:43 AM
I'd like to get it to delta sonic for an interior detail before I go. otherwise I think it's ready.
Post by: mr.mindless on January 11, 2018, 03:10:37 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180111/9380f760a40e4896ecb77176ec493e0a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180111/aa758f6b1bbc30ef13b0a3c6499386a3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180111/317eb12ef3a98151da4c1ee4a7d6e984.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180111/53f61a3f63540c1f64f94e8fd5bf9461.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180111/070d71e686de6c9c8b933da74d74a30a.jpg)
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Post by: M on January 11, 2018, 03:31:37 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 11, 2018, 05:38:35 PM
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Post by: M on January 11, 2018, 06:01:32 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 11, 2018, 06:20:18 PM
cheap steel boxes rust to shit immediately. cheap aluminum boxes are super under built. steel boxes weigh 3x what these do (95 vs 30, both plus mounting). these poly boxes are about the same price as super cheap aluminum or cheap steel and I'm hoping they have quality closer to higher end steel. We'll see.
Post by: mr.mindless on January 13, 2018, 05:21:26 PM
need to do some gusseting, otherwise I'd be drilling holes and spraying paint right now instead of in from the cold for dinner.
Post by: mr.mindless on January 16, 2018, 11:33:04 PM
Couple mud flaps would be good too.
Anybody have 3’ of 4†garden edging I could have for a quickie fix?
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Post by: mr.mindless on January 16, 2018, 11:34:01 PM
Steel warming up for paint. Not sure where I’ll spray or where I’ll let them dry yet. :-/
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Post by: rejeep on January 17, 2018, 08:27:32 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 17, 2018, 10:13:57 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 17, 2018, 10:32:22 PM
I’m so fucking ADD.
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Post by: mr.mindless on January 29, 2018, 01:38:09 AM
Low pressure fuel gauge spiked to 100psi for a while (5 minutes? Maybe 10). It usually lives at 5-8, occasionally around 1-2. While I was waiting to find a good spot to check that out, it went back down to where it belongs over the course of 30 seconds. Resetting the Edge had made no difference so either it was a short and the readout has some significant smoothing, or an actual pressure fluke of the cp3 back feeding supply or who knows what.
Half an hour ago I started getting “service required, visit dealer now†on the overhead. (5 hours after the low pressure thing) No codes stored. Checked with Edge and with Smarty. Cleared with Smarty. Guess I’ll reload the tune if that repeats tomorrow? No drivability symptoms. Just a nice ding with nothing in the cluster. Overhead only.
All the prep done I’ve done and still weird shit just happens. Because mikemike?
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Post by: mr.mindless on March 20, 2018, 02:34:06 PM
Post by: wnyjpgy on March 21, 2018, 07:53:13 AM
If it doesn't help I need to make a serious decision between putting some money into it or shipping it. Unfortunately for me it just got new batteries and tires in December..
Post by: mr.mindless on March 21, 2018, 09:45:03 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 26, 2018, 08:34:59 PM
found my teeth.
Disappointed in the silver in the oil. Hoped I could put it back in after 30k. Maybe think about sending it. Hmmm
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 27, 2018, 10:10:34 PM
May be over to the shop tomorrow if gears need pressing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180428/147b95f4087051d5792a318a6f2f1d86.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 28, 2018, 12:22:04 AM
spent 2 hours digging. found nothing likely local. 2 gallons of Mobil Delvac Synthetic MTF 50 will be here Tuesday. Unless that's something in stock at Main St but from what I think I recall last time when I put Pennzoil Synchromesh in it, I don't think it was.
Post by: Nick on April 28, 2018, 08:43:12 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 28, 2018, 03:44:31 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 28, 2018, 04:02:30 PM
Typical fuck mike's life finding: input shaft is missing a tooth again. all parts departments closed so can't check local price/availability.
if I'm lucky I can have one Tuesday, and then get to assemble and install the whole fucker instead of just filling it with oil.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 28, 2018, 05:09:38 PM
Better and better.
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 29, 2018, 11:59:26 AM
We'll see what Dodge can do first thing Monday.
AMP Distributing, who I bought parts through previously, doesn't offer next day on their web site. Priority mail 2 day for $13. sigh.
Piss poor planning is my middle name!
Shaft: g56-16a (3 ID rings, 28 tooth)
Bearing: 32210
Post by: mr.mindless on April 30, 2018, 10:13:08 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180430/960f2b02b8331fea877d5280cd4da700.jpg)
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Post by: M4wdFab on April 30, 2018, 10:33:08 AM
hopefully you talked to a human in Wisconsin and got shipment confirmation over the phone.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 30, 2018, 10:38:00 AM
Wondering if I should get something better on a slow boat for when that twists so I have it on the shelf.
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Post by: TrailTamer on April 30, 2018, 10:52:41 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 30, 2018, 11:19:39 AM
Mechanic who suspected it was there got an extra tip from me. Coulda really ruined my day if not for him!!
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Post by: TrailTamer on April 30, 2018, 11:23:50 AM
Wondering if I should get something better on a slow boat for when that twists so I have it on the shelf.
Hunt for a complete G56 so you’ll have a complete unit on hand to swap? IMHO the original case is compromised. Cracked & welded, repeated failures.
Post by: M4wdFab on April 30, 2018, 11:25:31 AM
use, tune, gearing, HP is probably more of the problem.....
Post by: M4wdFab on April 30, 2018, 11:29:26 AM
Thruway spring saved my day. 20t prop would have been enough if we took the hidden snap ring off. Under the bearing.
Mechanic who suspected it was there got an extra tip from me. Coulda really ruined my day if not for him!!
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o shit!
Post by: M4wdFab on April 30, 2018, 11:35:34 AM
most dont warranty "broken gears" WTF else is there to warranty in a manual?
Post by: M4wdFab on April 30, 2018, 11:37:46 AM
Thanks Brett for sanity checking me and looking at rockauto. Order placed for a USA Standard Gear input shaft. Fingers crossed.
Wondering if I should get something better on a slow boat for when that twists so I have it on the shelf.
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rock auto doesnt list an input shaft for my truck, thought it was same?
Post by: TrailTamer on April 30, 2018, 11:45:55 AM
Thanks Brett for sanity checking me and looking at rockauto. Order placed for a USA Standard Gear input shaft. Fingers crossed.
Wondering if I should get something better on a slow boat for when that twists so I have it on the shelf.
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rock auto doesnt list an input shaft for my truck, thought it was same?
RockAuto don’t list everything for some reason. Need to search the part # then it’ll show up. Since the dealer listed the part # for MikeMike’s G56 so it’s probably safe to assume they does interchange.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 30, 2018, 12:26:49 PM
wasnt it just an ear welded though?
use, tune, gearing, HP is probably more of the problem.....
and driving style (related to long gearing). Will run with high RPMs from here. May generally tow in 5th, it made nearly no difference in economy - though I did run I think 62-63 in 5th as opposed to 68ish in 6th.
Thanks Brett for sanity checking me and looking at rockauto. Order placed for a USA Standard Gear input shaft. Fingers crossed.
Wondering if I should get something better on a slow boat for when that twists so I have it on the shelf.
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rock auto doesnt list an input shaft for my truck, thought it was same?
I would expect it to be the same. Does rockouto show you truck at all? cross reference for the USA Standard part I bought only shows 2500 & 3500 trucks 2007-2018.
I believe all neccessary bits will arrive tomorrow.
oil
input
input bearing
front countershaft bearing just found on amazon (cage bent with 3 jaw puller)
Slap shit together, I think I will need to check countershaft shim clearance with the gold plated jig since I'm changing a bearing, oil it, install it.
Mike, you good on that tractor fetch for me tomorrow? I put a caliper on the trailer yesterday and safety wired all the bolts. None of the others were loose at all.
Post by: M4wdFab on April 30, 2018, 01:03:23 PM
44" inside tire spacing is that OK on your trailer or need to bring cribing?
Post by: mr.mindless on April 30, 2018, 01:10:57 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 30, 2018, 01:31:43 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 30, 2018, 01:39:26 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 30, 2018, 01:41:10 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 30, 2018, 02:47:42 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 01, 2018, 12:56:34 PM
printed out my paper work i need Iowa guy to sign
Post by: mr.mindless on May 01, 2018, 01:01:02 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 01, 2018, 02:41:49 PM
Gotta finish some summer planning first. 'tis the season.
Post by: M4wdFab on May 01, 2018, 06:03:23 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 01, 2018, 06:18:22 PM
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 01, 2018, 10:53:50 PM
Needs oil and interior trim.
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 02, 2018, 12:04:53 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on May 02, 2018, 12:38:16 AM
434,905
Full of California dust.
Dash gauges are getting glitchy. First time I fired it I only showed tach. All gauges work in self test. Volts stayed dead through test drive. That’s been the most frequent misbehaver since KOH.
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Post by: rejeep on May 02, 2018, 07:06:44 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on May 02, 2018, 08:36:25 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 27, 2018, 12:27:12 AM
Post by: rejeep on October 27, 2018, 06:34:11 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 22, 2018, 05:42:30 PM
Why does my fleet all have so many cooling system problems at once??
Post by: mr.mindless on June 30, 2019, 11:11:23 PM
Threw AC gauges on it since they were out and pressure differential is high, so it’s got some extra restriction somewhere. It was all 100% new parts 4ish years ago. Annoying. It was only keeping up when on recirc at 95F. And either it doesn’t have a high pressure limit switch or that switch is bad, since with whatever cooling fan issue the truck has it’ll blow out the relief if I run ac while sitting still when it’s hot. Truck got a new fan clutch 2-3yr ago as first effort to repair this, which means it’s either wiring or ECU. Will redouble my research efforts to hot wire the stupid viscous fan heater.
Sarah’s Malibu held vacuum, so I charged it. Was flat empty. See how long that lasts. Got very close to in-spec pressures, at least something on that car (and something today) cooperated.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 01, 2019, 10:57:06 AM
seems too good to be true but I guess the EU has protections making repair information public domain, so...
I'll find out shortly.
Post by: etk300ex on July 01, 2019, 11:07:48 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 16, 2019, 12:40:31 PM
I swapped radiator cap when this started so it has a lev-r-vent on it. So much better when there’s an issue!!
Post by: mr.mindless on August 17, 2019, 11:58:07 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2019, 02:49:20 AM
Something mildly loose in front end. Enough for a dead spot, which the steering stabilizer masks to the point of misdiagnosis. Expect to be track bar.
16.5 steady indicated (15.4 actual) on interstate with messy air from lawn and snow equipment. 21.5 indicated across highway 8 from Crandon to MSP in 5th at 62, 1900rpm. Still showing 19.9 after near 200 miles of 72ish in i94 and some around town and county driving today. Curious to see actual tank economy. Will find out in the morning. I’m expecting actual of 19 give or take a half
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2019, 11:33:24 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on September 03, 2019, 04:22:30 PM
Only 16.4 actual. Disappointing
It used to have better mileage?
Post by: mr.mindless on September 03, 2019, 08:53:27 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 11, 2019, 11:29:41 AM
I should price out having that work done, if it would come with a 4 year warranty, since it seems that's as long as AC components last for me.
Going to check out all pressure switches too, have a feeling that high and low limit switches are either faulty or bypassed.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 12, 2019, 12:02:59 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190912/0d1776037f150e6970f13d5bc0c27651.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190912/4debdf2f66e5ea1daaa99713252c71c8.jpg)
Post by: M on September 12, 2019, 09:37:52 AM
Post by: etk300ex on September 12, 2019, 10:33:35 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 27, 2019, 09:02:25 AM
So I guess I should just do the full repair (for the second if not third time). At least parts are getting cheaper with age. Under $300 for a full “kit.â€
Ordered an ac system pressure transducer too. Only diagnosable via scan tool, but its what should trigger the engine cooling fan, and do all system pressure protection, which has appeared not to function properly for a couple years.
Post by: TrailTamer on September 27, 2019, 09:21:04 AM
I haven’t have a A/C failure in my 2nd gen Ram in almost 10 years. All issues I had with A/C were from something else.
Try find a new OEM compressor and maybe that’ll last longer?
What this full ‘kit’ include? Absolute guaranteed repair job will be to replace everything...
Post by: mr.mindless on September 27, 2019, 09:45:43 AM
And yes the kit it everything but evap and liquid line. I’ve done the dance a couple times. Pressures were never perfect on this install, plus it pushed Freon out due to overpressure several times. It still lasted 60k.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 13, 2019, 05:45:04 PM
$3000 for a scan tool to see what the ECU really is doing. Pretty great. I love a totally integrated power module.
At least it should be a reliable serpentine accessory system and I can drive the truck again, but fuck is that frustrating.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 13, 2019, 05:54:17 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 13, 2019, 06:20:13 PM
That’s why I post that shit when i get frustrated. It makes me think even if it takes a minute
Post by: TrailTamer on October 13, 2019, 06:58:15 PM
At least it should be a reliable serpentine accessory system and I can drive the truck again, but fuck is that frustrating.
How come you didn’t just bypass it to get by?
FWIW
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/belt-routing.252170/
Post by: mr.mindless on October 13, 2019, 08:11:22 PM
I carry a no-ac belt. Changing the serpentine on that truck is murder. Worst serp I ever do. And I’m not going to not fix the aircon, so best to just do it.
Nice to know I have a transducer issue now and not on the first hot weekend in June, right?
Post by: mr.mindless on December 09, 2019, 05:15:02 PM
Not sure what to do. Been thinking of selling but clearly must fix that issue first.
Post by: mr.mindless on December 09, 2019, 05:27:40 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 09, 2020, 05:25:44 PM
2007 6.7 Cummins 6 speed Ram 3500
$12,500, neg
currently needs head gasket. runs and drives but pushes coolant - gently - at all times while running. new rad cap made no change.
discount: -$2500
quad cab 4x2 Cab & Chassis
CM 9' flatbed & headache rack. 2" receiver and turnover 2 5/16" gooseneck ball.
Been in NY for 6 winters, with limited winter driving. Zero rot anywhere, and very nearly zero rust on body and frame. Wheels and bed are due for refinishing.
Drivers doors both dented in rocker area from a deer. Passenger rear door has a scratch in same area below the body line.
Will break 20mpg empty
Heated cloth seats (aftermarket - Wet Okle)
AC just rebuilt (compressor, condensor, drier, evap flushed)
7x steel 19.5 wheels and tires, tread ~60%+
crossbed aluminum toolbox and 2x plastic underbody tool boxes
Factory 52 gallon rear mount fuel tank
Edge Insight with pyro, turbo timer
Smarty Jr. programmer
30k on cooling fan clutch
25k on front brakes, wheel bearings, ball joints
20k on South Bend dual disc clutch
20k on trans lube
20k on trans bearings - did NOT do synchros. Shifts slightly stiff if you don't match.
35k on all fuel filters (3) - factory plus aftermarket fuel/water and 5 micron
70k on injectors without any issues since
reportedly new head and new turbo around 320-330k 2 owners ago. no paperwork.
possibly original CP3 - no issues
rerouted and extended fuel tank vent
5k on oil and filter
30k on rearend oil
2.5 years on batteries
rear axle rebuilt with new bearings, 3.42 gears, chromoly axle shafts, ARB air locker at 354k
36' 12k Kaufman car hauler available.
20-30k on new Dexter 7k axles, new springs, bolts, hangers.
LED lit with repeaters and markers
1 year on new steel deck.
HD ramps, slide in the back
electric over hydraulic brakes, 2 years and ~10k on new pads.
7000# winch with wireless remote, solar trickle charger, functional breakaway.
Registered through Feb 2022 (?)
3000 with truck
4000 on its own
Post by: M4wdFab on January 09, 2020, 05:59:04 PM
3-4k for that trailer seems like a deal.
i think my winch is a 10k no? ;D
Post by: mr.mindless on January 09, 2020, 07:43:25 PM
HG or not, it’s sitting more than not by a LONG shot now.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 17, 2020, 11:44:05 PM
It doesn’t have head studs. I couldn’t remember. No way to know if these bolts were reused 150k ago when the work was done before it went to auction.
Hopefully all looks good and I can just put a gasket in it for another 100k.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200618/989306988437f328b709029e056763bd.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on June 18, 2020, 01:06:25 AM
Post by: wnyjpgy on June 18, 2020, 07:59:24 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on June 18, 2020, 08:50:08 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 18, 2020, 09:10:40 AM
dont you have a paint booth full of tires that roll
LOL at brett idea :o
Post by: cracker on June 18, 2020, 10:52:13 AM
LOL at brett idea :o
Standard Operating procedure for a Ford!
Post by: mr.mindless on June 18, 2020, 11:22:27 AM
We'll see if I'm tempted to lift the cab at all when it comes time to lift the head. I doubt it. I don't love how much dust is coming off the under cowl insulation though. I'm going to have to do extra cleaning and maybe look at removing it for install to keep sand out on assembly.
I like the lift arm idea. Especially with a 2x12 secured across the arms in front. I may have to try that out. Need to build my truck mover hitch plate for the forktruck!
Post by: wnyjpgy on June 18, 2020, 02:32:44 PM
I think making a simple platform that slides into the lift pad holes might be a good idea.
Post by: M on June 22, 2020, 08:59:57 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2020, 12:03:48 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200624/cc45d9a4205fa29545736c82d88858a1.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200624/ee4bdb901f8d7ec58dc28905f769c17e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200624/250e7f43d2909003aee23497563fc834.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200624/b66d98f96e54e27134e49cbb25ba87cc.jpg)
Post by: M4wdFab on June 24, 2020, 09:13:21 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on June 24, 2020, 09:56:25 AM
easy fix clean it and isntall new or does that require head work?
Look like it, as long as flatness, run out & surface roughness check out good.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2020, 10:02:12 AM
Would likely be late tonight if not for club meeting. And if not for not finding a few tools quickly last night.
Post by: M on June 24, 2020, 11:54:50 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2020, 12:19:20 PM
It's annoying to have to tarp things to keep bird feathers and shit out of things, hopefully I get them taken care of next week. And it's annoying to not really be set up yet, but it's very much a learning experience to work in here and feel out how things maybe should be arranged.
The back corner where I'm working on the Ram is good for a project that'll take a little while to not be in the way of other things and have some room for parts. Should be a good part-out place too.
The office side feels right for machining and fabrication, which means that 4 post lift isn't in the right place because it's the wrong tool for that work. I don't know that there's room for that anywhere.
Not rushing into any changes unless something happens with employment. I've got plenty of time to figure it out.
Post by: rejeep on June 24, 2020, 05:23:59 PM
Beginning of covid I rearranged my shop/store room for the 4th time in 4 years..
Shelving helps... dumpster helps even more.
Post by: TrailTamer on June 24, 2020, 05:53:54 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 25, 2020, 06:08:06 PM
Damaged the head gasket at the very least.
Fucking idiot
Post by: mr.mindless on June 25, 2020, 06:17:47 PM
Waste of a little money, not a pull and deck the block.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 25, 2020, 06:32:06 PM
Post by: rejeep on June 25, 2020, 10:45:45 PM
Whoever said to themselves that the solid bar picking the head was not safe and would slip was correct.
Damaged the head gasket at the very least.
Fucking idiot
I thought that was “the way†from the picture...
Post by: mr.mindless on June 26, 2020, 03:03:20 AM
80% assembled.
set valve lash (and roll motor over in the process to make sure all is happy in pushrod land and I don't bend another one. Double checked them all on the way in)
fuel rail & injection lines
one banjo bolt on a fuel return line that got bent a bit when the head fell, that'll be fun and is what made me wash up to head in
intake horn
injector harness
valve cover
air box and intake to turbo
double check for spare parts
fill coolant
Should be done in 2 hours.
Hope it's good. Wonder what won't be since there's always something with me & mine.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 26, 2020, 09:52:22 PM
Lathe & phase converter still available. Will empty the flatbed tomorrow and plan to grab it on Sunday. Do a little test driving around in the mean time. Cleaning up the shop now
Post by: mr.mindless on June 26, 2020, 09:53:56 PM
30-60min wasted for a loose connection at CP3 that I thought was just having trouble getting all air bled. Thought I’d tightened it but i was just making a fuel puddle
Hopefully that’s my one issue!
Post by: mr.mindless on June 27, 2020, 02:42:07 AM
Just a bit of cleanup and repacking to do. And maybe make a spare tire mount.
Will find out tomorrow if bed length is adequate for the lathe. Rough guess was 8’ overall.
Arb seems to have sprung a leak. Didn’t check if the locker engaged or not. Compressor cycles every few seconds instead of running once and never again.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200627/08ca327dc092f2ae5b7ef155f2833751.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200627/e157cea7904d50c44a9b77c424b5306b.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on June 28, 2020, 06:05:30 PM
Need to make sure my water in fuel sensor is plugged in securely. Had WIF light come on 5 miles from my pickup point after driving in Rausch Creek Asspour Rain for 10ish miles solid. It turned off before I got to an exit. Sight glass in my first water filter is completely clean so I’m certain it was false positive.
So very good to have the do-all truck back on the road â¤ï¸ï¸
Now it’s time for a drink!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/eb3aa5435dd3b4e540c7dee204fbc878.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200628/989a8e85b74fe5d5f09d3119fdb35f18.jpg)
Post by: TrailTamer on June 28, 2020, 09:29:49 PM
Post by: M on June 29, 2020, 09:58:14 AM
I use my 45q RTIC cooler as my standing platform when I'm in the engine bay of my Sierra. That cooler is rock solid planted to the ground and wont move one bit, and easy to move around when needed.
As pictured. ;D
Post by: mr.mindless on September 26, 2020, 12:12:24 AM
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200926/12f8f2c834382994559adde1fc77fa7d.jpg)
Post by: M4wdFab on September 26, 2020, 07:23:41 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 26, 2020, 07:35:46 PM
Wood and compost/topsoil. Probably brush and branches from tree trimming next week, not that that really needs sides. Sand and gravel as needed for beach and driveway.
All things that want it to dump :)
I need a 40s cab on a 4x4 chassis with dump bed and plow. The year round fun machine. After the Chevy breaks in half.
Post by: M4wdFab on September 26, 2020, 07:37:42 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 27, 2020, 11:45:51 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200927/a4f2d8b98c0e5d178276cb5081e45edc.jpg)
Post by: rejeep on September 27, 2020, 01:56:56 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on September 27, 2020, 02:03:46 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200927/b3f6ef9561f05a5f529eb10088a28ea3.jpg)
Could really use low range but full send worked. 100 gallons in the bed.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 27, 2020, 09:01:32 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200928/b5186823e47911ffb1229eb208312e0e.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on October 09, 2020, 10:13:53 AM
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Post by: mr.mindless on October 18, 2020, 01:04:11 AM
I expect the regulator is in the PCM. truck is on its third alternator that I know of, year or two old. Could be poor response and lag in alt? Or bad pcm regulator?
Need to decide between throwing alternator at it or setting up an external regulator, I think. It’s irregular enough that it would be hard to sketch with a scan tool unless it was on all the time. The CTS insight sees a steady 13.0v at all times. I don’t know if it’s measuring, or polling ECU.
Post by: rejeep on October 18, 2020, 09:28:59 AM
I’m sure that had something to do with it...
Try it again once disconnected...
Post by: mr.mindless on October 18, 2020, 09:50:32 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on October 18, 2020, 06:53:51 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 03, 2021, 03:15:35 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210603/23946ab420be7c56a0065bf64c42441f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210603/33da2f63f40274273d3c1bc1f7afa187.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on July 05, 2021, 10:10:10 PM
Threw it on the lift, pulled rear wheels expecting to find rear brakes worn to nothing and they are at least at 50-70%.
It has acted like a stuck caliper once or twice, and pedal feel changed a smidge a bit ago. I guess I'll check the slides and e-brake hardware but it's drum-in-disk, so that shouldn't have any effect on pedal feel at all. Very strange.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 31, 2021, 05:29:36 PM
just did oil change and fuel filters and swapped that LR caliper. tightened the steering box. for my ref: redhead box has 3/16 hex and uses double jam nuts, top 11/16, lower 5/8
probably turned the hex in nearly 1 full turn. it's 1/16 turn loose of touching. put the front on the turntables and no binding through full steering range. hopefully that fixes the wander/loose feeling.
Post by: rejeep on August 05, 2021, 10:26:47 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 05, 2021, 12:46:49 PM
Post by: rejeep on August 05, 2021, 02:12:22 PM
I think Shirley Mass area
Post by: M4wdFab on August 05, 2021, 05:05:45 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 02, 2022, 12:59:17 AM
Still at 19.4 in Bennington VT for the night. Tail wind was 20 gusting 30. Nice!
Post by: mr.mindless on April 04, 2022, 01:45:44 PM
Probably put on new steer tires too. or at least rotate the current steers to a drive corner. They're getting choppier and louder, and got annoying on a 7 hour drive. The a-pillar whistle that I thought was the light bar didn't go away after I took it off, may play with some tape to try and find what spot is making that noise.
actual economy on that tank was 17.3, I think computer was about 1mpg optimistic.
Fuel gauge is acting up again. Getting more frequent with age. Does affect the overhead computer's range, but not economy estimate. so not a big deal to figure rough miles per tank if it craps out completely with as much history as I've got on this thing.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 09, 2022, 12:21:33 AM
What a rusty mess those wheels are. I need bigger wire wheels and cups. Or a sand blast rig. Might have to at least do the outside face of the rears now but then the bed will look even worse.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 09, 2022, 05:08:33 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220409/047df21e3c1af8d45fab1c692b855fc8.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on October 23, 2022, 08:33:32 PM
charging surge is getting much worse. bought a standalone voltage regulator but haven't installed it. tested batteries today and the pair tests to 300a, so they're shot. the cables and terminals all look like shit.
so ordered some cables and some terminals, expect to buy some batteries too. TBD if the ECU charge regulation bypass is needed, or if it's due to some high resistance. Bad batteries could be cause or could be symptom.
Hopefully my splurge of supplies here results in some productivity too. being sick for 2 weeks has me feeling WAY behind on everything.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 27, 2022, 01:03:38 PM
I haven't decided if I'll change batteries or cables first to see if the charge surging stops. I really don't know what the cause is and whether bad batteries could be causing it or if it killed the batteries. It's not 100% reliable but close.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 28, 2022, 09:44:01 PM
Start was a much faster crank.
No voltage surging in 15-20 min idling.
It was intolerable the last few times I drove it.
Old batteries both sitting at 12.3-12.4v and tested to 275 & 325 amps. Weak but still serviceable. Wiring probably the majority of the issue.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 29, 2022, 11:57:28 AM
At least it’s under 15 and not flickering.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 30, 2022, 05:12:18 PM
I wonder what I’d learn if I were to monitor the heater grid
Post by: mr.mindless on November 12, 2022, 11:36:50 PM
Also noted that there’s no cable from the heater grid to the grid solenoid. So I haven’t had a heater grid in play for the last 100,000 miles. Unless I consciously didn’t reinstall that wire when I redid the head gasket right after I moved? Don’t remember that. Also surprised I didn’t really notice that being missing when I did that job.
Heater grid trigger wires looked ok but the solenoid is crusty as hell.
I threw the voltage controller under the hood but didn’t wire it. If I see surge again, should be a quick job to migrate charge control from ECU to stand-alone. Just need to look up the resistance I need to put across the factory harness to keep the idiot light off.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 16, 2023, 08:24:16 PM
Right rear brake went metal to metal. Got that caliper and rotor changed just now in about 3 hours. Nothing fought at all.
Another case of always just do brakes in pairs… hasn’t been long since I did the other.
Ebrake hardware all looked great. Wheel bearing looked great.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 16, 2023, 08:27:03 PM
just did oil change and fuel filters and swapped that LR caliper.
Yup, a year ago. I think that was maybe 5,000 miles. Neither side needed pads at that time, I had them in stock and shelved them.
Spent a pair from stock just now and the left side pads still look new.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 08, 2023, 04:51:33 PM
Under boost accelerating in 4th appreciating the power of a _modern_ dumpbus I thought I grenaded a driveline lol
Took me a second to evaluate road speed and R’s were still correlated, I just lost 80% power.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230808/a7ed0a4cc5f5dedd8ff91952da4c9af3.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on November 15, 2023, 09:01:09 PM
Always something
Post by: mr.mindless on November 30, 2023, 07:25:31 PM
No funny noises.
Gauge slightly reactive to RPM, so not a -dead- sender or gauge
Typical is 45 hot idle and higher at cruise
Oil consumption has always been negligible. Maybe a quart low at a 7500-10000 mile, 3 gallon change.
I see I’m at 7750mi, will check and probably change.
Very concerning.
Post by: mr.mindless on November 30, 2023, 07:26:50 PM
Maybe it’s another cluster fuck up like the fuel gauge a couple weeks ago
Post by: cracker on December 01, 2023, 08:12:20 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 01, 2023, 11:07:49 AM
there's a pressure port on top of the oil filter housing, I'll shop for a pressure transducer to add there to the CTS gauges to get a real number since concerns were brought up....
I drove the XJ today.
Post by: M4wdFab on December 01, 2023, 02:23:59 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 01, 2023, 03:11:43 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 03, 2023, 02:08:22 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on December 03, 2023, 07:06:52 PM
maybe weird electrical thing?
Post by: mr.mindless on December 03, 2023, 07:31:39 PM
I think it was a dash snafu. Will be interesting to see how much difference fresh oil and filter makes. Clean fuel filters is the difference between 7-10 and 2-3 psi…
Post by: M4wdFab on December 03, 2023, 07:34:42 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on December 03, 2023, 07:37:50 PM
i feel lied to!
Post by: mr.mindless on December 03, 2023, 08:24:46 PM
Factory low pressure warning is 6psi so I figure over 10-12 is hopefully non fatal.
Gauge is just showing 40-60 at all times no matter what. So dumb. But I should have expected it.
I really thought it was a real number since it DOES move with rpm. That’s just… tricky. deceitful. rude.
If you have that other wiring left over let me know. It’s cheap to get just a pressure sensor but the extra interface for sensors is $177 itself. Silly. Too bad I can’t just make the dash gauge tell truth - but the dash is definitely failing intermittently so maybe better to bypass it anyway.
Post by: M4wdFab on December 03, 2023, 09:06:59 PM
and an extra one of these kits i believe.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Edge-Products/367/98611/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710673933&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=44693592161&CATCI=aud-454389669042%3Apla-213811363271&CATARGETID=230006180039218810&cadevice=c&jegspromo=&gclid=Cj0KCQiA14TjBRD_ARIsAOCmO9bwFeiNfhB3_Rt7092zdsAY7KCbDwwAzf1PFMueflUJVmKZkXUiWi0aAh4CEALw_wcB&fbclid=IwAR3TAbYyBMQhCXjWQxShYad6mZNpWAenHQksSqfCX5wcAWqaUKEH7nz2bqE
i can check tomorrow
Post by: mr.mindless on December 03, 2023, 09:31:27 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 02, 2024, 04:39:25 PM
Codes for fuel level sensor both high and low and CCV . I have a ccv filter on the shelf,
See it that fixes or if it’s the purge valve.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240102/edec71d2682961c70961e65880bb7664.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240102/cfed917230a1ab35b2c5c4ee547c648e.jpg)
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Post by: mr.mindless on April 04, 2024, 08:15:09 AM
Fuel gauge will read at full only, still. Guess fifteen year old half million mile trucks need som attention here and there.