M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: KingtheZJ on October 11, 2012, 08:51:03 PM
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Teaser.
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As my CT friends say: "If anyone needs one tons... THAT kid definitely does."
I also realized last night that this will be the third 78-79 Ford 60 you've owned within a few month period.
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they just appear! i cant help it
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i need a set of chebbys if you bump into any, ill give 500-600, any condition 4.10 complete
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This shit is slow. Finally got some work done last weekend.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/21/8yhapede.jpg)
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What is the electrical plug coming out of the top of the 60 housing? ABS? :P
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What is the electrical plug coming out of the top of the 60 housing? ABS? :P
ahh, that.
that would be the electrical connection for a sweet eaton elocker 8)
ripped out that junk abs a long time ago
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For everyone's future reference
SRW 14 bolt
Ruffstuff SRW bolt on disk brake brackets
Rotors: PN 60427
Calipers: PN 18-4122
Stock wheel studs
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ya i run the longer studs cause the aluminum beadlock wheels and wheel spacers dont like stock studs.
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Bout time...
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How's the suspension coming?
Steering issues sorted out yet?
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meh.
weather suck. im a baby
drag link and oil pan want to occupy the same real estate. going to attempt the pitman bend this weekend.
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Cranking today!
When you look up the word "parallel" in the dictionary it has this picture of the drag link and track bar. First time too!
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Zero death wobble guarantee!
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Baby link
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Low oil pan is fucking my up travel
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motor mount lift?
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motor mount lift?
I wish that would be easy. It would be some custom motor mounts. I think the tires will dictate more bumpstop necessary anyway. We'll see how that goes first.
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Progress!!! Yesssss
motor mount lift?
I wish that would be easy. It would be some custom motor mounts. I think the tires will dictate more bumpstop necessary anyway. We'll see how that goes first.
Put some 1/2" or 1" plate or whatever under your stock motor mounts.
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pipe kinker? put a little bend in that guy?
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That would reduce pitman TRE capability at flex. I say bumpstop till you're good. Those tires are gonna eat your fenders anyway
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It has to be balance between oil pan clearance and diff clearance. Bump stoping will be the key
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Finish welding
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Fortune cooke win
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Elocker tested and works. Good news.
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Progress
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Mmmm can't wait to see some WOT wheeling action on this hog without D30 twig shaft snappage
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These 35 spline stubs are fat little bastards. Sweet!
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Big tires
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Bam.
Time to pull those fenders again.
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Rollin
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Out with the old
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Shit just got real
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No turning back now
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How much are you guys taking off the back of the 14b yoke to fit the ubolts? Are you using a lock washer too? Seems tight and compromising the yoke already. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/25/5uma3yby.jpg)
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That looks about right.
If you'd used a smaller tool you wouldn't be making that thin spot.
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i just take an angle grinder and make a flat. i cant remember if mine has locks or not. i took more material than that on both my rear drive shaft, and the two 14 yokes that make up my front two piece shaft and its been fine.
you could get fine thread top locks if your worried about no lock washers.
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Loc-tite blue
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i just take an angle grinder and make a flat. i cant remember if mine has locks or not. i took more material than that on both my rear drive shaft, and the two 14 yokes that make up my front two piece shaft and its been fine.
you could get fine thread top locks if your worried about no lock washers.
Good info. I took a little more than he did off and it was making me nervous. Glad to hear it's 571 rated. Top locks or Loctite are good ideas, getting enough off for lock washers too woulleave nothing left.
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Just used a torque wrench for the first time. Spindle nuts ready to rock
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Just used a torque wrench for the first time.
[insert well deserved burn about loose bearing caps]
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/29/egubade2.jpg)
14bolt? More like a 18 bolt :pimpgrin:
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I'm just gonna let mine turn itself into a 13 bolt shave kit.
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to do for big dogs:
rear coil buckets
rear shock mounts
rear brake lines/bleed
gusset/ support upper link brackets
close floor
swap out tcase for 231 w/ sye
rear driveshaft
front driveshaft
swap out front long side to chromo shaft and spicer joint
figure out how the fuck to install these damn warn lockouts.
tcase skid
weld on front shock mounts
align front end
adjust drag link
overfill trans
address stalling (new battery?)
tie up downstream o2/fix wires
optional:
re bend pitman arm
pull hitch/ fab rear bumper
trans x/member
trans skid
custom y pipe and exhaust
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/03/yta7e2ut.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/03/ata4apud.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/03/2etaguda.jpg)
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Does it not fit without the spacers? Looks wide
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Front does not clear the steering arms without spacers. The wheels with spacers are equivalent to running a 9" wide wheel that has 5" BS
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Looks good
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Right, the stock arms are in the way.
Good stuff, get it going. Bigdogs is a rough testing grounds. ;D
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Bigdogs is a rough testing grounds. ;D
I am somewhat worried
For myself I mean
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I am somewhat worried
For myself I mean
qft for me
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I had many failures at Big Dog testing out new vehicles. Smike brings a welder, so anything can be fixed.
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I had enough problems last year, and I had three failure-free Rausch trips under my belt before going. Balls hahaha
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Optimist thinks it'll be smooth sailing!
ie. "it'll be fine"
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Time for tons
&
'it'll be fine'
It's the Fingerlakes way!!!!!
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There will never be tons under this Rubicon! 8)
Still contemplating the next wheeler (with tons)... ;D
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toyota usually lasts about 1 to 1.5 big dogs days lol
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needs a sweet GMC drive train for 350$!
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There will never be tons under this Rubicon! 8)
Still contemplating the next wheeler (with tons)... ;D
XJ for sale...
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Thinking a little more unusual. Maybe S10 or Colorado based? Maybe. :-X
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Good idea, Mark. I love my XJ, but frames.... mmmmmmm.
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MUST have a frame. Not dealing with all the extra bracing you unibody guys deal with. Back on topic...
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done:
rear coil buckets
rear shock mounts
rear brake lines/bleed
swap out front long side to chromo shaft and spicer joint
figure out how the fuck to install these damn warn lockouts.
weld on front shock mounts
swap out tcase for 231 w/ sye
rear driveshaft
to do:
bleed rear brake lines
gusset/ support upper link brackets
close floor
fill case
fill front diff
front cover?
Dodge van MC?
front driveshaft
tcase skid
align front end
adjust drag link
overfill trans
address stalling (new battery?)
tie up downstream o2/fix wires
optional:
re bend pitman arm
pull hitch/ fab rear bumper
trans x/member
trans skid
custom y pipe and exhaust
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Nice. Did one Rausch trip prove that stalling and O2 wires were related issues?
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/09/u7adamap.jpg)
This better be worth it. Got an ear full of trans fluid getting this guy out.
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Is that my old sye?
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Is that my old sye?
Yeah buddy!
Shoving the case up an inch. Almost clears the bottom of the frame rail. Extending a front double cardan shaft and its gonna work perfect.
For my reference before I forget
Existing shaft 31"
Lengthen 6.25" to 37.25"
Gives .5" clearance of bottoming slip at full bump
Shaft length at full droop is 38.5
Check double cardan clearance at full droop
Check pinion angle can be adjusted properly and upper links can get long enough
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Trans crossmember. Pushed the trans/ case up 1.5". Increased ground clearance 2".
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Possible to put a bend in the square tube to get it flush with the side plates?
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front driveshaft clearance and exhaust clearance are about as tight as they can be. I could have notched the 2x2 out for them, but the tcase skid will have to drop down to that height anyway.
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Installed
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done:
rear coil buckets
rear shock mounts
rear brake lines/bleed
swap out front long side to chromo shaft and spicer joint
figure out how the fuck to install these damn warn lockouts.
weld on front shock mounts
swap out tcase for 231 w/ sye
rear driveshaft
front driveshaft
trans x/member
to do:
bleed rear brake lines
gusset/ support upper link brackets
close floor
fill case
fill front diff
front cover?
Dodge van MC
tcase skid
align front end
adjust drag link
overfill trans
address stalling (new battery?)
tie up downstream o2/fix wires
custom y pipe and exhaust
Front limiting straps
optional:
re bend pitman arm
pull hitch/ fab rear bumper
trans skid
Rear bumps
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optional:
trans skid
Optional? Seems important.
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An extra 1/4" of clearance without that pesky steel in the way ;D
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Did work
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exhaust is looking pimp.
harry beat you to the test drive though :(
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harry beat you to the test drive though :(
True, but he has a correct length rear shaft and confirmed months ago that his front locker works. So kinda fail on my part
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Drove this hog tonight. She is not pleased with speed. Feels like riding a fucking horse. Looking at the tires they seems really wonky. Weird.
Also got death wobble. Nice.
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How's your alignment, particularly caster?
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looks like pinion is kicked up way to high in front and she has about 2" of toe in
need more info sir
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i need to check on those things tonight. i had set caster at +5*, but need to verify. what would you set toe at? around 1/8" toe in?
and try running higher pressure in the tires. forgot i had just thrown in 22psi to make sure they were holding air. tires have BBs to balance
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what would you set toe at? around 1/8" toe in?
That should be a good starting point. Set mine there by tape and factory spec alignment on the machine never moved it .
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maybe its the pic but it looks like you are at -5.... upper kingpin is behind lower right
1/8 to 3/8" should be fine for 37" at the tread
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upper is behind lower. but i will verify tonight. ive fawked it up before... ::)
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Factory caster is usually between 0 and 3 degrees with respect to the cast-in perch. Pinion often has to be tipped down a bit at ride height to get the 5-7 degrees you want with big tahrs
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caster? pinion angle? what are these thing you speak of :D
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caster? pinion angle? what are these thing you speak of :D
I noticed your healthy pinion angle last year hahaha
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caster? pinion angle? what are these thing you speak of :D
Just the man i was looking for!!
can you look at the wiring diagram for my locker? (page 11)
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128304.pdf
can i just supply a hot and return to it and be ok? or does it need some voodo back box magic
I'm talking like take the 2 wires coming out of the locker and splice on a cigarette plug and plug it in when i want the front locked.
Edit: i think the answer is yes. they recommend a relay, but thats wouldn't really be necessary, right?
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what is this a hot water base board were installing here? ;D
in the end, yes. a relay is just less load to run thought the switch. looks like theres a diode in there for one last deference on s surge. do you have this harness?
I'm talking like take the 2 wires coming out of the locker and splice on a cigarette plug and plug it in when i want the front locked.
what kind of bush mechanictry is this? put a fuse and a switch in at least...
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i dont have the harness.
i suppose i can do a fuse and switch ;D
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cig lighter is fused somewhere haha
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what kind of bush mechanictry is this? put a fuse and a switch in at least...
Big axles, big tires, big rocks. The rest is minor details.
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When do the big tires go on??
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all this work and your gonna wrap it up with a cig lighter locker lol
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Caster set to 5*. Toe set to 1/8" toe in. No changes. Still vibes really bad. DW twice and bounces up and down at anything over 30mph like a galloping steed. Bah.
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Also filled the tires from 22psi to 40psi
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Gonna try my rollers on it. I'm thinking it might be tires.
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Feels like riding a fucking horse.
hhahaha this made me chuccle a tit bit
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maybe too much weight of BBs?
recommended is 10oz for a 37. I put in 15 thinking i had more potential for weird weight distribution with the inserts w/ metal plates. wishing i had put less and tried it first.
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That's what a wide base dump truck tire takes for drop in weight fwiw.
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18oz for 42 yo
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are they potentially bunching up and causing the the jeep to bounce up and down? would putting a little anti freeze in help them to slide around better?
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that sounds like a terrible idea ha
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Where are these numbers coming from just out of curiosity? 18oz is crazy huge. That's for like a 220lb mobile crane tire
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those are comming from a guy that wanted to run 42" TSLs on I90, and did not like the tire strobbing up and down 6" at 45mph
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I'd think 4-6 oz should be closer...
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I dont think it will make a difference.
How does it feel slow? Does if feel like something is out of round driving at 5mph?
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consensus online is too much doesnt hurt...
feel good at slow speeds. as you climb 15-25 it gets progressively worse. feels like i can induce DW at anything over 30-35 (speedo isnt working)
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Have you double checked all the steering and suspension joints for tightness? That won't help the 'horse' feeling, but could definitely contribute to DW.
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yeah i check them all when adjusting the toe. everything was good.
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As you said, doesn't hurt. But if it takes that much weight there's something else wrong there. Maybe the tire has been worn to out of round by a poorly set up vehicle before, or when airing up the beads didn't seat properly which believe it or not happens a lot. There should be a line just larger than the rim all the way around the bead, make sure its equal distance from the rim all the way around. Give them all a good spin and make sure there isn't more then a couple 32nds of movement up or down and side to side. If all of that checks out, I'd move on to suspension and steering
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good info. i'll check that out. thanks
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You sure the rims are not bent?
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You sure the rims are not bent?
no, I'm not. I need to check that out too. they are troy's old H1s
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those are not allowed at big dogs!
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They're screwed together with plates now, no more of those shenanigans.
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haha
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31s and 5.13s are fun. Needs a line lock.
Seemed to really help the vibes/DW. Took it to 65.
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Rear axle on jackstands. In drive tires spinning slow. Tread surface runout upwards of 1/2".
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O_o no good!
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to do:
gusset/ support upper link brackets
fill front diff
front cover?
Dodge van MC
tcase skid
adjust drag link
overfill trans
tie up downstream o2/fix wires
finish exhaust
Front limiting straps
trans skid
wire up locker
optional:
re bend pitman arm
pull hitch/ fab rear bumper
Rear bumps
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Double checked tires squarely seated and bead indicators and wheels are running true?
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$50 Craigslist street 35s solved all my problems. She screams at 70mph with 5.13s hahaha
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to do:
gusset/ support upper link brackets
fill front diff
front cover
tcase skid
overfill trans
Front limiting straps
trans skid
wire up locker
optional:
re bend pitman arm
pull hitch/ fab rear bumper
Rear bumps
Radiator support
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I don't see "fix 37s" on the list
Good to 100% confirm tires are the culprit.
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This hog popped a CEL this morning on startup and would fall flat on its face if you let off the gas. Scanner said faulty IAC and had me panicking. JeepForum pulled through with a PCM reset and she was up and running.
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im very pleased with how this did at BD.
SO fun with 35s and 5.13s on the way home in the rain. i think i'll be driving this more often now.
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Thanks for the turn behind the wheel on V.
A+++. Would wheel again.
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Thanks for the turn behind the wheel on V.
A+++. Would wheel again.
Mike- you do have all the parts to clone it...
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Mike- you do have all the parts to clone it...
Excellent point.
What's your tire plan Spencer?
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they really worked quite well. with 10psi and a fully functional front locker i think they would be good. going to give them another try.
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maybe 15 in the fronts. that sidewall just fell apart post-puncture.
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remember, they are no KRT or bogger....
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Ran my old TSLs at 8-10 all day long. Was running the 36s all weekend at 8, figured I was overcoming the E range sidewall and relatively hard compound.
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37s and 14b tubes now look "normal sized" to me
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More to the point, D30 shafts look completely useless
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h1 wheels are bent. bah
Goodyears are chunked and sidewalls all cut up. garbage tires for pointy rock terrain (read:east coast)
front end disassembled for locker replacement. Open carrier welded up and ready for dirty gear setup.
this guy needs bottom end engine seals BAD. been putting that off for 4 years.
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need more pressure
id race the snot out of them at 25psi for line mt
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were at 8psi for 4 hours at BD, then the one got cut. they have all been at 20psi since.
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They are shitty and worthless
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parts list for hydro assist
3/8" X 36" JIC 6F X JIC 6F 4000 PSI HYD HOSE
Item Number: 930-2236
1.5X8X1 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES
Item Number: 9-7258-8
JIC 6M x 1/4 NPTM 45 ELBOW
Item Number: 9-2503-6-4
JIC 6M TO SAE 6M 45 ELBOW
Item Number: 9-6802-6-6
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http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html
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http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html
Careful
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/22/2u8ybeqy.jpg)
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Terrain Suspension Seat
Black Velour
Part Number # 942-80-1620-61
how do these seats seem to hold up?
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http://www.eastwood.com/professional-tubing-bender.html
what do you think of this?
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from teh Q&A:
"It will bend 1 5/8" tubing, but it will only handle up to 0.090 wall tubing."
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https://www.affordablebender.com/collections/affordable-benders-tube-notchers/products/race-car-tubing-bender-includes-bender-2-die-sets-of-your-choice
This is a better setup
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The last one is what I got works good
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Shooting to have this on the road and ready for the Autumn Adventure Sept 24th.
Needs:
Hydro assist lines secured
Check diffs
Check trans
Slime slow leak tire
Check possible leaking brake line
Check Alignment
Check Control arm bolts
Rear Driveshaft vibration?
Oil change
Quiet down exhaust?
Transfer case swap to hopefully fix howling above 40mph
address need for lockouts vs flanges. Is rolling all day in 2wd ok?
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address need for lockouts vs flanges. Is rolling all day in 2wd ok?
If street vehicles are OK then I'd think you'd be good with 2WD and rear locker. Take the flanges with, just in case...
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30 or 35 spline? I found a factory ford locking hub at J & J with Smike. Smike have it.
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30 or 35 spline? I found a factory ford locking hub at J & J with Smike. Smike have it.
35
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nice!
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Very close to parting this out
37†blue label krawlers on h2s
Built ford 60
Built 14b
Hydro assist setup (to brett)
Full hydro setup from josh that was never installed on mine
Pile of random suspension parts
Just never gets used- no time.
Any interest in parts?
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c'mon, what happened to plates and DD status?
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Drove it up and down the street. drives like shit. Sounds like shit from trans. Done with it.
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A man needs a hobby... :'(
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see, all you gotta do is...
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how kicked are the blue labels on H2's? I'm looking for a (lighter) replacement for my H1's and MTR's...
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how kicked are the blue labels on H2's? I'm looking for a (lighter) replacement for my H1's and MTR's...
I’ll text you pictures
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while i had the cruse set at 73 yesterday in my ZJ on 90 headed to my moms, i was thinking im not sure i want tons and 40s under it oddly. 35s are nice. even with the trans shutter zero to 2 mph on aggressive tip ins
ill go back to searching for stand alone AC and radio systems for the 49 haha
meh
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why standalone AC when it has a compressor mounted already?
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because a compressor is 15% of the system....... and it gets thrown out so the motor fits in between the fender wells
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aggressive tip ins? lol
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the thrown out to fit is a lil more important :)
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many any offers
93-98 Grand Cherokee Tail Lights- 20 pair
Roof rack with cross bars (great for adding a roof rack to a TJ hardtop) 25
93-98 Grand Cherokee radiator (100 miles on it) 50
93-98 Iceland offroad bolt on rock sliders need paint 120
front winch bumper. bolt on for 93-98 grand cherokee. could fit others. integrated winch plate 75
(2) 6' sticks of 6x2x3/16 for rock sliders 100
pair 10" travel profender monotube shocks (eye/eye) 75
pair 12" travel profender monotube shocks (eye/eye) 75
Kevins Offroad steering stabalizer 45
Optima Red top battery 100
5.5" lift Rubicon Express front coils fit TJ XJ ZJ 75
3.5" front lift coils fit TJ XJ ZJ (or rear applicaion on ZJ for 5.5") 75
Full hydro setup- 8" ram, eaton orbital, mounting bracket, lines, steering adapter, tie rod for full width d60 400
Set of 4 BF Goodrich Blue Label DOT Krawlers Mounted on 17" hummer H2 wheels 8x6.5 800
Set of 4 of low tread tires 305/70/16 on ford 8.6.5 steel wheels 75
One 305/75/17 BFG AT on H2 wheel (was spare) 50
Assorted driveshafts 25
Flexalite transmission cooler with lines 30
Custom made low profile skid plates for engine, trans transference (0.25" plate) 50
Axle Pair $4000
Front Axle: 78/79 Ford HP Dana 60 5.13 gears Welded Carrier Solid drive flanges with removable option. Chromoly 4340 USA 35 spline axle shafts with Spicer ujoints
Rear Axle: Chevy 14 bolt shave kit with shaved ring gear. Disk brakes. 5.13 gears. Detroit locker. Truss.
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:(
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