Post by: Harrison on October 05, 2012, 02:24:38 PM
Plans:
Ball Joint D60 front, 4.10s, lunchbox. Narrow 4" to 65" WMS. Keep my current 3 link.
C&C 14B rear (63" WMS), 4.10s, welded, simple 13 bolt shave. Chevy 3/4 ton discs.
Picked up a set of 36" Swampers on pre-Superduty Ford factory 8 lug aluminum wheels for cheap. Will run those until I'm sick of the ground clearance, then upgrade to something larger and regear to 5.38 down the road.
This is going to be a very budget minded build. The main objective is to get my Jeep into harder terrain without fear of breaking front shafts like it's my job. For where I'd like to be next year, 44/8.8 would have probably suited my purposes well, but I don't plan to stay there so tons it is. I'm hoping 36's, 4.10s, and 6.36:1 low ratio will be doable for a while (math says it should be close to where I'm at now).
I don't have many pictures to post, I'm hoping starting this thread will motivate me to do something in regards to this project that's worth of photographing.
Post by: Harrison on October 05, 2012, 02:27:00 PM
Does anyone have any idea where I could take/send my long side to have 4" whacked off and splines put back on?
Post by: M4wdFab on October 05, 2012, 02:30:02 PM
do some bushmechanic welding and plate your ford nuckles
dont bother with shaving, thats what wheeling is for.
with your goals a stock form 60 is pretty stout, but seems like the WNO guys that run tons on 37"s ish at big dogs break more ford knuckles that shafts.
Post by: Harrison on October 05, 2012, 02:54:07 PM
Barnes4x4 sells a 14b cover that's pre-shaved. You cut off the bottom to match it, weld a plate on and call it a day. I watched Ryan wedge his lip a couple times at Big Dogs with 40"s...
Post by: KingtheZJ on October 05, 2012, 03:12:42 PM
we are both keeping them on the road. so locker + drive flanges or welded +lockouts would be needed.
i'm going with welded and lockouts now because its cheaper. when i gear i'll go to locker and flanges.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 05, 2012, 04:03:29 PM
Hope the lockouts are schrong, welded is lots more stress on them (cumulative time-wise) than a locker since it never unloads. unlocking is probably a two person job too to saw the wheel back n forth to unload the splines.
balljoint knuckles don't fail as often it seems. and with low steel my Ford KPs have been "fine" so far
Post by: KingtheZJ on October 05, 2012, 04:07:46 PM
Hope the lockouts are schrong
35 spline warn premiums?
Post by: mr.mindless on October 05, 2012, 04:15:00 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on October 05, 2012, 04:32:49 PM
8)
Post by: Wingman on October 05, 2012, 04:37:27 PM
weld the front, spend the locker money on 35 spline outers
This. And lockouts. With spares. = cheap fuse.
Or change to slugs for wheeling trips.
Post by: Harrison on October 05, 2012, 04:51:50 PM
Who has broke a 30 spline outer? What size tires were you running? I tore the 60 down last night and must say I was not impressed with the outers when I laid one of my many broken D30 shafts next to it...
Post by: M4wdFab on October 05, 2012, 05:21:32 PM
i ran stock shafts on my CJ5 and the buggy for a while with <200hp 42"s
Post by: Harrison on October 05, 2012, 06:20:15 PM
Post by: Harrison on October 05, 2012, 06:21:20 PM
[attachment deleted by admin]
Post by: mr.mindless on October 05, 2012, 11:09:55 PM
I forgot you guys aren't doing 38s+, even stock 30sp outers and lockouts will probably be fine.
I broke both my 30sp outers at once doing a front dig. First shafts I broke, stock inners lasted a long time after that.
Post by: Harrison on October 08, 2012, 09:30:54 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 08, 2012, 09:41:14 AM
I bet Doug at Extreme knows who to talk to.
Post by: M4wdFab on October 08, 2012, 10:25:08 AM
H1 or H2 wheels fix that :)
Post by: Ryan on October 08, 2012, 10:39:19 AM
Post by: Harrison on October 08, 2012, 10:46:31 AM
i still am against shorting axles
H1 or H2 wheels fix that :)
Any reason other than added time/cost? I'm planning on an afternoon and an additional $200 at most. I was thinking it would allow me to stay somewhat narrow without limiting myself to two wheel options.
Post by: Harrison on October 08, 2012, 10:46:56 AM
Vic has a splining machine
Who's Vic?
Post by: etk300ex on October 08, 2012, 11:24:54 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 08, 2012, 12:10:29 PM
Any reason other than added time/cost?unique parts that NEED to be made that stock replacements will never be found at a junkyard for is what I'd assume
Post by: Harrison on October 08, 2012, 09:41:44 PM
i still am against shorting axles
H1 or H2 wheels fix that :)
Sorry Smike. I was so busy disregarding women and acquiring currency I forgot to take your advice. Hahahahaha
[attachment deleted by admin]
Post by: mr.mindless on October 08, 2012, 11:21:26 PM
Post by: Harrison on October 10, 2012, 09:40:52 PM
[attachment deleted by admin]
Post by: Wingman on October 10, 2012, 10:09:51 PM
Looking good!
Post by: mr.mindless on October 11, 2012, 08:39:03 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on October 11, 2012, 09:32:30 AM
Post by: cracker on October 11, 2012, 09:50:23 AM
Post by: Harrison on October 11, 2012, 10:37:07 AM
looks like time for a blue box soon :)
You hating on my stick welds?
I've been looking though. I only have 220v stick/TIG capabilities. Your dual voltage MIG is a nice machine...
go to Harbor Freight and pick up a needle scaler for ~$50.. they are awesome for knocking off scaley rust in places that are hard to get a grinder into..
Good idea... I've used them before but didn't think about it.
Post by: mr.mindless on October 11, 2012, 11:12:33 AM
And I like your stick work there!
Post by: Harrison on October 11, 2012, 11:20:18 AM
I should snap a pic of the factory weld I cut off. No penetration at the root and a decent amount of porosity. It erased any doubt I had about how my welds would hold up!!
Post by: Harrison on November 12, 2012, 11:04:08 PM
[attachment deleted by admin]
Post by: Wingman on November 13, 2012, 08:57:08 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 13, 2012, 09:58:54 AM
I hate working on dirty junk. :-X
me too!!
Post by: Wingman on November 13, 2012, 10:47:47 AM
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/driftsil40/IMAG0916.jpg)
Post by: Harrison on November 13, 2012, 11:01:31 AM
Both axles are out so I can turn them into currency. I really didn't want both ends on stands so I just clamped the 14b in using the Ruff Stuff swap kit.
The 60 would be sitting in place as well had I not run out of stands.
Post by: Harrison on November 29, 2012, 11:13:28 PM
Really happy with how it's going so far. Trackbar mounts on both ends are not done, but I wanted to get something on so I could see how it all worked together. Oil pan is mighty close to kissing the trackbar at full bump. Might need to bumpstop a little more and get stiffer springs. These are whooped, I was hitting the bumps cruising green trails at Rausch.
Finish up trackbar mounts, weld in the threaded bungs, and fabrication on the front will be close to done. Need to order locker, shortened shaft and rebuild parts still.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/eqyhu2es.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/ty4ynamy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/anubuzap.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/uhy5yvug.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/yru7a9un.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/30/4umy2uru.jpg)
Post by: M4wdFab on November 30, 2012, 07:53:21 AM
Post by: Harrison on November 30, 2012, 09:40:55 AM
put a little bend in the track bar?
Maybe, but that's last resort. I would worry about it clunking around with heims on both ends. I need to add a little more bumpstop anyway to keep my shocks from bottoming when it flexes.
Post by: Harrison on December 13, 2012, 10:20:49 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/14/unuduqu2.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/14/dyqyba9a.jpg)
The TRE flip inserts required me to shave some meat off the arm on the knuckle so I wrapped some 1/4" around them to beef them up.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/14/myra7una.jpg)
Scored a used Lockright for $200. Once that is installed and the 60 is painted, it will be going under for the last time.
Post by: Wingman on December 14, 2012, 07:51:26 AM
..., it will be going under for the last time.
:-X
Post by: Harrison on December 14, 2012, 08:05:24 AM
:-X
I was expecting a comment on the condition of the floor from you. ;D
Post by: Wingman on December 14, 2012, 08:51:03 AM
How's that? ;D
Post by: gslarue on December 14, 2012, 11:26:41 AM
Post by: Harrison on December 21, 2012, 10:58:14 AM
looks like the inside of his jeep ;D
Kinda looks like my whole life hahaha
Post by: Harrison on December 21, 2012, 11:03:49 AM
http://www.rockhard4x4.com/product_p/rh-1012-1.htm
He said price would be negotiable, had it up for $800 and no one wanted it.
What do you guys, especially those with tube experience think? I was thinking I would tie it into my tube rockers and tie them to my stiffeners. Eventually make the tube extend out to the front and tie into the front bumper and unibody plating. Also, make a halo that the follows the roof line on the outside.
Or buy a bender.
Post by: Wingman on December 21, 2012, 11:31:02 AM
Post by: Harrison on December 21, 2012, 11:34:59 AM
Strip your interior out and drop it off to M4.
Thought about that. But I'm in the wrong state, and I wanna do it myself... or at least be able to participate haha
Post by: luvmyxj on December 21, 2012, 11:57:36 AM
http://www.dandcextreme.com/product_template.asp?pkID=126
Post by: Harrison on January 09, 2013, 09:40:03 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/10/u3amypu3.jpg)
Post by: KingtheZJ on January 12, 2013, 12:18:05 AM
Looks good. I love the high roller paint job!
Post by: Harrison on January 15, 2013, 08:21:55 PM
Fun.
Since the 1/4" side to side the caliper slides will be the difference between the banjo hitting my leafs and not... It will be slid all the way to the left in this pic, correct? Seems like that will be the way it moves when the piston pushes out. Might be able to shave a little off the banjo head...
Post by: jacel86 on January 15, 2013, 10:13:37 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on January 15, 2013, 10:27:42 PM
looks good. caliper will move to the right as the outer pad gets worn. keep that in mind.
Post by: Harrison on January 16, 2013, 09:16:46 AM
It looks like the banjo will interfere with the leafs about 1/8". I think I might be able to do some creative grinding to deal with that.
Someone suggest u-bolt elminators to deal with the caliper bolt removal issue, wish I had thought of that before I half welded the perches on.
Post by: mr.mindless on January 16, 2013, 09:46:38 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 16, 2013, 10:09:30 AM
could you clock the caliper bracket the other direction for better leaf clearance?
Tried, perches are nearly square with the bracket bolt pattern so it's close to symetrical. Essentially gains me nothing.
Post by: mr.mindless on January 16, 2013, 10:34:37 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on January 16, 2013, 10:58:06 AM
it will be fine
Post by: Harrison on January 24, 2013, 09:49:34 AM
Smike, do you have any connections on Solid diff covers?
Post by: M4wdFab on January 24, 2013, 11:30:12 AM
you need front and rear 60 covers?
Post by: Harrison on January 24, 2013, 11:56:08 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on January 24, 2013, 01:29:28 PM
my freaking cart is at 2K right now- waiting to here from Matt G if he wants to blow real coin also.
Post by: Harrison on January 24, 2013, 01:47:51 PM
blow real coin
$130 on diff covers! High roller! They just offer you a discount on whatever you plunk in your cart? Just wondering about discount, if it's not much I'll just ordermyself. They are cheap
Post by: M4wdFab on January 24, 2013, 01:59:06 PM
Matt and i just placed a 3K order in an email-
Post by: Harrison on January 24, 2013, 09:57:58 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/25/enebuda7.jpg)
Front done.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/25/dybumu6a.jpg)
New dilemma about spending money I don't have: will I be pissed at myself in a year for splurging on new 37s?
Post by: KingtheZJ on January 24, 2013, 10:28:21 PM
Hey can I get a pic of the lower bump stop / coil retainer setup?
Keep in mind 37s = new wheels too
Post by: Harrison on January 24, 2013, 10:46:56 PM
The bumpstops are nothing more than hockey pucks on top of the coil retainer the brackets came with. They sit 98% flat when you tighten them down.
Post by: Wingman on January 24, 2013, 11:46:50 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 25, 2013, 09:48:42 AM
more trimming required...
Definitely, even to run these 36s.
40s means gears, 35spl outers, shortside chromo inner... cage... all stuff I should do but was thinking I could get away without on a smaller (relative) tire. For a while.
Post by: M4wdFab on January 25, 2013, 12:38:25 PM
it will self trim for 40's after this year :)
Post by: Harrison on January 25, 2013, 12:55:19 PM
bomb proof on 36's sounds fun
;D I'm looking forward to it. A lot.
I'm not expecting much from these tires though. Was trying to decide how quickly I wanted to be on 40s. I'm sorta hoping 3-4" more tire and real axles would keep me satisfied for a while, but I also know myself. :-\
Post by: Harrison on January 28, 2013, 02:16:03 PM
i will let you know if i dont hear from him tonight or tomorrow ill call-
What's the deal with the covers? I will be in town for the night on Feb 16th
Post by: M4wdFab on January 28, 2013, 03:36:14 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 28, 2013, 03:58:33 PM
thanks for reminder- i will call right now!
Great! Let me know! Thanks
Post by: M4wdFab on February 15, 2013, 11:24:14 AM
Post by: Harrison on February 15, 2013, 11:46:08 AM
Do you have any use for them? I know Spencer needs a front cover...
Post by: M4wdFab on February 15, 2013, 11:48:14 AM
happy to stock them, you can never have enough solid diff covers!
Post by: Harrison on February 15, 2013, 11:55:32 AM
Post by: KingtheZJ on February 15, 2013, 01:26:04 PM
14b is no good to me unless i want a 2" super fast drain plug on the bottom ;D
Post by: Harrison on February 21, 2013, 02:44:27 PM
Do these work?
Post by: M4wdFab on February 21, 2013, 05:28:17 PM
Post by: Harrison on February 21, 2013, 05:42:12 PM
http://maine.craigslist.org/pts/3548781848.html
Also those... Beadlocks and useable tires. Could probably recoup close to half that selling what I have. Buy 38-40" Creepies eventually. I'm worried the radial TSLs I have now are going to really bring the suck... Even more than Iroks will.
Post by: Harrison on March 10, 2013, 07:44:41 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/11/a7yhegu2.jpg)
Left to do:
Lengthen front driveshaft
Rear axle shock mounts
Runs like shit
Setup rear bumpstops
Ãœber squishy brake pedal
Not sure if the brake pedal is bleeding or stock master related. Going to bleed again, by I'm guessing I just need a master with a larger bore.
After those things
Make doubler stop popping out of gear
Rebuild belly skid
Trim and hack to make tires fit
Post by: mr.mindless on March 11, 2013, 09:06:04 AM
Stance is nice, I like the wheels.
Post by: KingtheZJ on March 11, 2013, 09:09:56 AM
I like the heart.
FIFY
;D
Post by: Harrison on March 11, 2013, 09:12:37 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 11, 2013, 09:14:44 AM
I like the heart.
FIFY
;D
Ha yeah, Hannah snuck that in somewhere between install the diff covers ;D
Post by: Ryan on March 11, 2013, 09:25:15 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 11, 2013, 10:25:04 AM
Probably looking to get into beadlocks ASAP. Thought about welding aluminum rings on these.
Post by: Harrison on April 11, 2013, 09:36:27 AM
Left to do:
Lengthen front driveshaft
Rear axle shock mounts DONE
Runs like shit O2 sensor heater circuit fuse blown from MIA downstream sensor, FIXED
Setup rear bumpstops 3/8 plate setup on leaf pads, DONE
Ãœber squishy brake pedal new master installed, SWEET.
After those things:
Trim and hack to make tires fit
Post by: jacel86 on April 11, 2013, 10:26:15 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 11, 2013, 04:04:10 PM
Sweeeeeet!
Pretty much my feeling, thanks. Jeep, truck, and trailer are all getting a pre-BIG DOGS shakedown up in Mass this weekend.
Post by: Harrison on April 12, 2013, 09:34:20 AM
Post by: dubt on April 12, 2013, 09:49:06 AM
Post by: M on April 12, 2013, 10:01:54 AM
I used to have one, I miss it :'(
Post by: Harrison on April 12, 2013, 10:05:43 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 14, 2013, 10:50:57 PM
Should be a reasonable amount to get done before the 24th. I was able to get the fenders trimmed up some more Saturday and all seems well there, no significant rubbing other than on the links.
Couple pics from today.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/driftsil40/P1030586_zpsf0616aa0.jpg) (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/driftsil40/media/P1030586_zpsf0616aa0.jpg.html)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/driftsil40/P1030639_zpsc7d9c512.jpg) (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/driftsil40/media/P1030639_zpsc7d9c512.jpg.html)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b307/driftsil40/P1030696_zps5af63e1e.jpg) (http://s22.photobucket.com/user/driftsil40/media/P1030696_zps5af63e1e.jpg.html)
It was good to be out!!!
Post by: mr.mindless on April 15, 2013, 12:10:07 AM
Post by: Wingman on April 15, 2013, 07:30:49 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 15, 2013, 09:28:31 AM
The front locker works about 50% of the time. I did not reuse the side washers per the instructions PDF I found online, but I'm guessing that may have been a mistake.
So glad I thought saving $150 by buying used was a good idea. Anyone have any insight on this? It is a NO-SLIP which is apparently a little different than the Lockright/Aussie design. The PDF I got says to remove the thrust washers, and says nothing about reinstalling them:
http://www.richmondgear.com/0002pdfs/8221003.pdf
Steps 9, 10 and 15, 16. I actually tried to install the drive gears with the thrust washers in and it would not fit. I realize that sometimes you need to clearance the carrier a little to make them fit though. I suppose the first thing I need to do is find out what the dimensions of their 'test block' (step 32) is. Bah
Post by: Wingman on April 15, 2013, 09:43:32 AM
Call or email tech support and ask your questions. I'm sure they'd be helpful.
Post by: Harrison on April 15, 2013, 09:47:31 AM
This came out of a GM 60, same part number is listed for Ford/Chevy on the Powertrax site. They do have a different listing for limited slip though, but it seems to me the LS locker would be smaller?
Post by: Harrison on April 15, 2013, 10:50:13 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 15, 2013, 11:41:47 AM
it was fine
Post by: mr.mindless on April 15, 2013, 11:53:14 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 15, 2013, 11:53:37 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 15, 2013, 11:56:29 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 15, 2013, 12:05:38 PM
sell your sole for a locker now and avoid mucho hassel 2X
This was my first thought. I spent two hours of axle disassembly time tracking down what ended up being a bad engine-chassis ground on my car so it would start last night, awesome. I will check clearances tonight. If they are out, I think it's worth a shot to get them back in and hope for the best. Else, I will order a new locker.
Lesson frickin learned.
Post by: etk300ex on April 15, 2013, 12:11:59 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 15, 2013, 12:18:03 PM
when your rippin down the access trails it gets a little sketchy lol. But its fine on the trail, I'd do it again in a second.
Even pre-hydro? Hmm...
Smike, do you have any connections on lunchbox lockers?
Post by: etk300ex on April 15, 2013, 12:24:43 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on April 15, 2013, 12:25:52 PM
lock right has treated the dakota well and i think they are priced ok
Post by: KingtheZJ on April 15, 2013, 12:26:42 PM
sell your sole
fucking shoes
;D
Post by: mr.mindless on April 15, 2013, 12:33:54 PM
lock right has treated the dakota well and i think they are priced ok
yup
sell your sole
fucking shoes
/me likes this
Post by: M4wdFab on April 15, 2013, 12:50:23 PM
Post by: etk300ex on April 15, 2013, 01:45:32 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 15, 2013, 07:50:24 PM
I unmeshed both side gears. Held the driver hub while spinning the driveshaft. Pass side teeth would lock right up, drivers side just glide over each other. If I spin the driveshaft in reverse, they lock right up. That's pretty consistent with what I experienced wheeling Sunday. Staying locked after that was iffy, sometimes resulted in unlocking with banging noises.
What would cause that cam gear to not align the teeth? Worn teeth? Worn center pin? Weak springs? It's not like they even tried to lock, just glided over each other like they weren't aligning. Meh
Seriously considering wedging a piece of metal in between the cam gears and welding in place in such a manner that would be easy to remove later... When I buy a new locker. If steering blows cruising around, rock unlocked hubs until I get on the trail.
Post by: gif on April 15, 2013, 09:41:54 PM
Post by: Wingman on April 15, 2013, 10:00:41 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 15, 2013, 10:20:20 PM
Mark... I do have time but this and DB3 have been rather financially abusive in the last few weeks and I still need to get to VA and back! That $350-400 would be coming out of my oh shit fund. I'd rather just weld it for now if it will work.
Post by: Wingman on April 16, 2013, 07:14:21 AM
there is no more permanent solution than a temporary fix
;D
Post by: rejeep on April 16, 2013, 08:26:01 AM
I do have time but this and DB3
you have an aston martin?
Post by: mr.mindless on April 16, 2013, 08:46:37 AM
Dump bus 3
They can be almost as expensive as an Aston though!
Post by: Harrison on April 16, 2013, 09:47:41 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 17, 2013, 08:13:34 PM
Spooled front done. Get some more lift/bumpstop in the rear and the rest is cake.
As far as boosting steering power steering, I read that drilling out the orifice sends more volume, shimming puts more pressure on the relief valve spring and increases pressure. Seems that I'd be looking for pressure more than volume?
Post by: Harrison on April 17, 2013, 10:06:49 PM
Looks like I can skip the drilling out part and get either the #4 or 3mm washer to put inside the regulator under the spring.
Post by: gif on April 17, 2013, 10:18:46 PM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/708701-best-power-steering-pump-modifications-pressure-flow.html
yes, you want pressure.
Post by: M4wdFab on April 18, 2013, 11:25:44 AM
is that a lockright?
probably just needed a new cross pin or non worn shims?
Post by: Harrison on April 18, 2013, 11:47:16 AM
what did you do to that locker?
is that a lockright?
probably just needed a new cross pin or non worn shims?
It is a No-Slip, supposed to be a quieter and smoother version of a Lockright.
Spec is .140-.170. I'm at .160
I unmeshed both side gears. Held the driver hub while spinning the driveshaft. Pass side teeth would lock right up, drivers side just glide over each other. If I spin the driveshaft in reverse, they lock right up. That's pretty consistent with what I experienced wheeling Sunday. Staying locked after that was iffy, sometimes resulted in unlocking with banging noises.
What would cause that cam gear to not align the teeth? Worn teeth? Worn center pin? Weak springs? It's not like they even tried to lock, just glided over each other like they weren't aligning. Meh
Seriously considering wedging a piece of metal in between the cam gears and welding in place in such a manner that would be easy to remove later... When I buy a new locker. If steering blows cruising around, rock unlocked hubs until I get on the trail.
Post by: M4wdFab on April 18, 2013, 11:50:47 AM
when you check them, the DS should be locked, and do the "spin test" hold one wheel back, turn the other forward, switch and repeat all 4 directions.
Post by: Harrison on April 18, 2013, 11:53:20 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 21, 2013, 02:39:35 PM
Awesome
Post by: jacel86 on April 21, 2013, 04:04:11 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 21, 2013, 04:17:25 PM
I saved the steering box off the dump bus...
I bet the mounting pattern is bigger though, I don't have stock jeep/dak to compare to.
Post by: mr.mindless on April 21, 2013, 04:17:38 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 21, 2013, 04:39:48 PM
Reid had a box from the frame donor TJ he got. It's in, washer removed, back together and running. No issues going lock to lock now. I locked the hubs and it seemed to steer fine. Wonder if smallish tires and lots of backspacing make it tolerable.
Post by: Wingman on April 21, 2013, 05:56:20 PM
Post by: KingtheZJ on April 21, 2013, 05:56:35 PM
Good it did it pre BD
Post by: M4wdFab on April 22, 2013, 12:25:05 AM
Post by: luvmyxj on April 22, 2013, 07:46:05 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 29, 2013, 11:16:43 AM
Needs the D20 either rebuilt or replaced, new trans pan, exhaust unsquished from belhousing before wheeling again. Bonuses would be full rear crossmember for a full belly skid and D20 to mount to as well as a skid from the crossmember forward (like Smike builds for TJs) to protect trans pan, exhaust, and oil pan.
Overall, I am very pleased with how this thing performed this weekend. Being out with the buggies made me realize that putting my Jeep on 40s is not necessary because it is still not going to go where they go without a lot more power and a lot less body, two things I'm not interested in changing at this point. I would rather start over with something with a frame (frame on body with added tube or just a buggy) if I ever want to run 40s.
I really like the width I'm at, so I am going to scoop up my buddy's stock Ford steel wheels and weld beadlocks on them, throw my current 36s on. When they are chunked bad enough/get sliced open/I get sick of them and have cash I would like to spend good money on some 37s (blue labels, Creepies, maybe kevlar MTRs, something along those lines) and be done with it.
Tons are fucking awesome. ;D
Post by: M4wdFab on April 29, 2013, 11:22:23 AM
made nicks 30 look terrible on KGB
:) i like it
Post by: KingtheZJ on April 29, 2013, 11:25:00 AM
Tons are fucking awesome. ;D
QFT!!!!!!!!!
this thing did work.
Post by: Harrison on May 21, 2013, 11:47:33 AM
Smike, based on your experience, is that likely all I need?
Post by: M4wdFab on May 21, 2013, 11:50:13 AM
if the output shafts are hosed or galled up new bearings might not help.
Post by: rejeep on May 21, 2013, 11:53:47 AM
but yes about what said and what smike said...
Post by: Harrison on May 21, 2013, 11:56:25 AM
Granted I haven't looked very hard, but I don't see many Bronco D20s on the market. My wanted ad on Pirate got deleted.
Why would I get a D300? The D20 is already twin stick and ACTUALLY a driver's drop case... no silly flipping required
Post by: rejeep on May 21, 2013, 11:57:26 AM
Post by: Harrison on May 21, 2013, 12:07:08 PM
Was hoping I could get parts here before the weekend, but whatever. I need to finish my truck and get it out of the garage first so I can get that thing in and figure out what it needs.
Post by: rejeep on May 21, 2013, 12:08:05 PM
I just used some of the bronco sites for parts since they have nice catalog options... I though thats what you were doing..
Post by: Harrison on May 28, 2013, 10:50:09 PM
Got the front yoke and seal assy off:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/29/u5amebuh.jpg)
It doesn't come out like Smike described. I'm guessing I will also need to take this cover off:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/29/5u7u5e8u.jpg)
But that's not going to happen without either taking out the crossmember to drop everything a few inches or dropping the t-case altogether.
Post by: M4wdFab on May 28, 2013, 11:18:19 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 03, 2013, 11:59:14 AM
I'm lazy and am more interested in getting my WMO setup going right now haha ::)
We'll see how it goes
Post by: Harrison on June 09, 2013, 08:56:17 PM
Kinda unsquished exhaust from the front of transmission pan. Trans pan still has a big dent, might just leave it. Doubt I'll have time to build a skid before Rausch, but it's on the list.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 10, 2013, 09:47:30 AM
Post by: Harrison on June 14, 2013, 01:56:27 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 24, 2013, 11:47:05 AM
No issues all weekend. Thing walks down Rock Creek like nothing now... almost too easy... almost 8)
Nothing like wedging a front tire and just using more gas.
Needs a rear crossmember to support the D20 and full belly skid. Needs trans/engine pan skid. Heims clunk. Shafts need to be ground for full circle clips and axle seals need replacing. Hydro assist would be nice.
Tires are chunking bad. They're hard and suck anyway. I may have a little cash coming my way... debating Creepies or MTRs. Creepies come in 16" and would therefore fit my current wheels. That's a plus.
Post by: Harrison on June 24, 2013, 02:05:01 PM
Considering these options:
Strip your interior out and drop it off to M4.
weld in,half the price and a good start
http://www.dandcextreme.com/product_template.asp?pkID=126
Also, what are everyone's opinions on internal vs exo? There is something about building an exo around something with body damage that I don't like. Also not in love with the exo look. That being said, it's hard to deny their functionality. Another option would be an internal cage with a halo of some sort. Body is already getting kinda bad, and I almost wouldn't care if it looked like a Dakota as long as I knew it was structurally sound.
Meh
Post by: Ryan on June 24, 2013, 02:20:42 PM
Post by: Wingman on June 24, 2013, 02:47:01 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 24, 2013, 03:04:45 PM
give it a halo and some rub rails below the back glass.
Post by: Harrison on June 25, 2013, 11:02:15 AM
Smike? Any thoughts from the master toob bender?
Post by: Harrison on June 25, 2013, 02:17:37 PM
Anyone have an opinion on Creepies vs MTRs?
MTRs are $200 cheaper a set, but Creepies will fit on my current wheels or the free 16" steelies I get from Troy.
I have a feeling the Creepies may be worth the money... probably closer to the sticky end of the spectrum. Since treadwear isn't a concern...
Post by: M4wdFab on June 25, 2013, 02:39:27 PM
Post by: Wingman on June 25, 2013, 02:49:13 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 25, 2013, 02:55:10 PM
Leaning towards the Creepies.
Post by: dubt on June 25, 2013, 06:43:26 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 29, 2013, 08:28:44 PM
Spicer'd and full circle'd. Also installed new axle seals I have little confidence I didn't ruin on install.
Post by: Harrison on June 29, 2013, 08:29:37 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 05, 2013, 04:36:24 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/06/nu4ededy.jpg)
Post by: Wingman on July 05, 2013, 07:26:39 PM
Time for cage.
Post by: Harrison on July 07, 2013, 10:09:37 PM
Also need new rear caliper, broke on the first obstacle of the weekend and wheeled with soft line clamped off.
Hoping weird noise I heard post driveshaft issue isn't ruined t-case.
Torquing from doubler is getting serious. Need crossmember for that.
Trans pan is more fucked. Need skid for that.
Post by: Harrison on July 14, 2013, 08:59:07 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/15/taruvuhe.jpg)
Rear plated on outside and underside. Plate on inside where crack is. Just reinstalled the gas tank and skid.
Left to do before returning to Rausch: rear caliper and transmission skid. Truck needs hitch installed.
Good weekend to have no plans, because this took all of it! Been a while since I spent a weekend immersed in metal burning world. Kinda fun :) but I'd kinda be OK never plating another unibody.
[attachment deleted by admin]
Post by: Harrison on July 15, 2013, 11:42:36 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 15, 2013, 11:44:27 AM
we could check with doug or campbell who have a maxxis hookup also
Post by: Harrison on July 15, 2013, 11:50:24 AM
4wp, Pirate vendor, 4x4 Group Buy all say the same: 1 in stock in Texas, backordered until begining of August. Going to keep trying find other places.
37x12.50r16
Post by: Harrison on July 27, 2013, 09:22:03 AM
Post by: etk300ex on July 27, 2013, 10:24:23 AM
Post by: Harrison on September 05, 2013, 09:29:57 PM
Picked up heim steering, ram, lines, tapped box for $300 from a friend. He has a full width ball joint 60 so I just ordered new tube adapters and shortened. Traded covers with him since it mounts to the cover (counter sunk bolts.)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/06/yzu9ydeb.jpg)
Creepies. Still need to trim a little more.
Post by: mr.mindless on September 05, 2013, 09:55:37 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Nick on September 05, 2013, 11:51:03 PM
Post by: Wingman on September 06, 2013, 07:35:06 AM
I got $5 on this looking like the Dakota in another year :)
Isn't that the goal? :P
Post by: etk300ex on September 06, 2013, 07:35:34 AM
Post by: Harrison on September 06, 2013, 08:16:25 AM
Post by: KingtheZJ on September 06, 2013, 08:37:48 AM
Post by: Harrison on September 10, 2013, 09:55:27 AM
Looked through some of the threads from Spencer and I, can't find it
Post by: Harrison on September 10, 2013, 10:32:06 AM
Post by: Ryan on September 10, 2013, 10:34:38 AM
Post by: KingtheZJ on September 10, 2013, 10:37:01 AM
Manufacturer: Spicer
Manufacturer Part No: 3-94-18X
Product Line: Strange U-Joint Girdles
Summit Racing Part Number: STR-U1610
Post by: Harrison on September 10, 2013, 10:43:19 AM
I didn't feel confident that walking into the store and asking for a "1350 u bolt" would net good results
Thanks guys
Post by: M4wdFab on September 10, 2013, 11:28:38 AM
Post by: wnyjpgy on September 11, 2013, 08:41:46 AM
With the wheels your running do they burp at all at low pressures, I see they're $388 a tire at 4wd right now.
DOT trps are only a few dollars more, just curious what you thought so far.
Post by: Harrison on September 11, 2013, 09:46:35 AM
The guy I got them from was running them on 16x7 TJ Rubicon rims and said he broke a wheel smashing the tire into a stump (at low speed) with 5lbs in them. And the bead didn't break, just the wheel...
If you are close to ordering, call 4wp and ask if they are in stock. These were on national backorder until the begining of August when I tried to order in July. No idea if they still are, but I'm always weary of those estimated dates. Just talked to someone else this weekend who wanted to order some 40s and found them backordered, too.
Post by: wnyjpgy on September 11, 2013, 10:09:56 AM
Are those the older factory ford alcoa wheels?
Post by: Harrison on September 11, 2013, 10:11:38 AM
Post by: Harrison on September 17, 2013, 04:11:19 PM
Transfercase needs a mount, doubler torque has things moving around a lot
Install stiffer detent in doubler to keep from popping out
Need spare driveshafts (current rear shaft is shot)
Replace lower link joints: $165 from Ruff Stuff, $175 for JJ???
Cage
Post by: Harrison on September 25, 2013, 11:17:11 PM
is there anything better than bonding steel with electricity? :)
Yes, there are. But very few things on the list ahead of it. 8)
Transfercase skidplate with integrated mount to prevent torquing from doubler. I'll get better pics with the mount when installed.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/26/7erysu2u.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/26/ahymydeg.jpg)
Also pic of steering adapter from when I was doing the hydro assist.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/26/atezyqyp.jpg)
Stiffer detent in the doubler now, shifts feel much "crisper". Hoping between that and extra mount, I won't have anymore issues with it popping out of gear... assuming that was caused mostly by the drivetrain jumping around. I could see the D20 twinsticks moving back and forth as the drivetrain would load in F or R.
I can't wait to drive this thing to work again!!!
Post by: Harrison on September 29, 2013, 09:48:50 PM
Did some local wheeling today. Creepies are starting to really shine. Was on a 4ft+ wall and really heated them up. Backed up, bumped, walked up it. Seem to get better as they get used more. Very happy with the purchase.
Blew another rear driveshaft (at the furthest away point from tow rigs) and was FWDing back with a strap from rig ahead. Going around a turn, pass side loaded weird and popped either hub or stub. Guessing hub, will check tomorrow. Flanges and 35spl outers coming soon. Just missed the Solid order, dammit!
Post by: M4wdFab on September 29, 2013, 09:52:33 PM
Post by: Harrison on September 29, 2013, 10:03:46 PM
Post by: Harrison on September 30, 2013, 07:36:17 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on October 01, 2013, 09:08:52 AM
Post by: Wingman on October 01, 2013, 09:09:48 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on October 04, 2013, 11:21:45 AM
Post by: Harrison on October 04, 2013, 11:57:35 AM
you still need 30 spline locking hub? I have one to unload
Going flanges and 35spl, thanks though!!
Post by: Harrison on October 06, 2013, 11:03:49 PM
Post by: Harrison on October 15, 2013, 09:37:34 AM
Post by: Harrison on October 15, 2013, 09:43:45 AM
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Snap-Rings-Basic-External-Retaining-Ring/_/R-SER1348_0293957739
Post by: M4wdFab on October 15, 2013, 09:46:26 AM
Post by: Harrison on November 09, 2013, 08:50:33 PM
Getting started
Post by: Wingman on November 09, 2013, 10:34:49 PM
Post by: Harrison on November 10, 2013, 10:03:34 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on November 10, 2013, 12:39:26 PM
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
Post by: wnyjpgy on November 22, 2013, 10:59:15 AM
Or an outside of tire to tire measurement?
I just found a set of those alcoas with decent tires for $200, and I'm strongly considering it.
Post by: KingtheZJ on November 22, 2013, 11:09:34 AM
Post by: Harrison on November 22, 2013, 11:11:17 AM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/23/uqu3apeq.jpg)
Cage progress has been slow, life and work get in the way the important things too much. The dink in the middle is a little off, this was the first piece any of us have done in a long time. Hopefully the C pillar is right on and no one will ever know. Except for you guys.
Progress should be coming faster now.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/23/ajuzehep.jpg)
Post by: Harrison on November 24, 2013, 09:21:49 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/25/gyha8eve.jpg)
Keeping it nice and tight!
Post by: etk300ex on November 25, 2013, 09:32:44 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on November 25, 2013, 10:12:48 AM
Post by: Harrison on November 25, 2013, 10:22:04 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on November 25, 2013, 10:43:54 AM
id be interested to know total man hours invested in it when done
talked to mike and DnD this weekend about XJ cages, he said run away from them they suck. Or convince customer to do a hybrid cage, way more functional and easier, more room also.
Post by: Harrison on November 25, 2013, 10:57:43 AM
I debated doing a hybrid. Call me picky, but I just could not find a single one I liked the look of. The outside halos just look really doofy to me. Each tube pillar will be tied into its respective unibody pillar with steel plates 12-18" long. If I flop/roll, its gonna get fucked up. Hope is that it will mostly maintain its shape (see recent pics of the CrawlerReady ZJ) but that A pillar tie ins will preserve windshield frame shape mostly... Or enough to be massaged back to hold glass if damaged. I may regret keeping it all inside, but meh. My unibody and I will both feel much better about the abuse it sees now.
In my opinion, this is too much work for a cookie cutter pound it out and get paid kind of job. It's labor intensive getting things to fit just right. We agreed making a simple cage strictly for safety that fitted more loosely would go together much faster.
Post by: Callelle on November 25, 2013, 11:16:27 AM
The outside halos just look really doofy to me.
From what I've seen, it's hit or miss. Some look well done, others look like tacked together scrap. I'm actually glad I get to see yours done first, I'm thinking I want a cage within the next year and have been flip flopping the idea of internal vs. external. Now I know for a fact that I want to stay exo for the simple matter of head room, and the fact that my XJ's body is for the most part, unscathed. Side question, is there a fair amount of space on the roof once the head liner is removed? I've heard that you get an extra inch or two and have thought about taking it out (at my height, every little bit of head room helps).
Post by: Harrison on November 25, 2013, 11:26:34 AM
If my body was as clean as yours, I would have seriously considered doing an almost full exo, those look better than just the halos sitting on top in my opinion. But mine also departed DD land long ago. I asked Smike his opinion on that, "she's a little haggard to go outside at this point", I agree
Post by: Nick on November 25, 2013, 12:10:07 PM
Post by: Harrison on December 15, 2013, 07:54:06 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/16/8uby3y5u.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/16/4ypebama.jpg)
Post by: JWOK on December 15, 2013, 09:32:13 PM
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
Post by: Harrison on March 23, 2014, 06:57:48 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/24/2ehyhypu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/24/a4y6e2eg.jpg)
Rotted floors provided some convenience for this :)
Post by: Callelle on March 23, 2014, 08:11:50 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 23, 2014, 10:39:03 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on March 24, 2014, 03:12:29 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 13, 2014, 05:48:24 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/una8avuj.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/gy6emy8a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/anazuses.jpg)
All but some small stuff left.
Trailer bearings inspected, repacked and given an "emph"
Truck got new driveshaft carrier bearing, rear wheel bearings inspected and drums adjusted up and all fluids topped and checked.
Post by: Wingman on April 13, 2014, 05:54:32 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 13, 2014, 09:19:08 PM
Those Solid drive flange snap rings are no joke! Took giant channel locks and prying with a screw driver to get it in.
Post by: JEEPWERX on April 14, 2014, 10:50:23 AM
No roll over testing at BD.
We already did that with nicks dad and dog few years ago.
good times. :/
Post by: Harrison on May 04, 2014, 08:56:53 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/azygapa3.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/dubybe7y.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/05/ypa8ybuv.jpg)
Post by: jaysenodell on May 04, 2014, 10:52:10 PM
The amount of space back there makes the Cherokee-to-TJ size comparison painfully clear.
Post by: Harrison on May 05, 2014, 10:04:58 AM
Post by: ct67_72 on May 09, 2014, 05:13:33 PM
Sent from my SPH-L600 using Tapatalk
Post by: Harrison on May 12, 2014, 09:19:48 PM
5.38s and reg renewal coming soon! One ton XJ DD status!
Post by: ct67_72 on May 12, 2014, 09:39:55 PM
Post by: Harrison on May 26, 2014, 03:19:08 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/27/byve9edu.jpg)
Post by: Harrison on May 31, 2014, 04:14:12 PM
806 carnage!
Post by: Harrison on June 02, 2014, 10:37:23 AM
806 carnage!
Tire was wedged and being forced to full lock with bumper pinned hard as I tried to back down a steep line. Kind of a "special case"
Side of joint that didn't break tweaked the ear on the stub and wollowed it out. Miraculously, the office had a Spicer 806 joint in stock. Installed with old caps in the stub and welded them in. Gonna order a new stub, cut the ears off the welded one, and install new stub with fresh caps from the new joint. Should be OK. Adding material to steering stops to prevent this in the future.
Trying to get this thing through emissions so I can renew the reg... and of course, CEL comes on halfway through this weekend. Extension from failing only gets me 60 day from original test due date which was back in November. Fawk!! Anyone have any experience with how long it takes for all the monitors to reset on ODBII 4.0s?
Post by: Wingman on June 02, 2014, 10:42:07 AM
Post by: Harrison on June 02, 2014, 10:47:56 AM
Post by: etk300ex on June 02, 2014, 10:53:28 AM
05 WK
Post by: jaysenodell on June 02, 2014, 11:07:17 AM
Post by: Ryan on June 02, 2014, 11:16:54 AM
Post by: Wingman on June 02, 2014, 11:19:57 AM
Post by: etk300ex on June 02, 2014, 11:20:25 AM
Post by: Callelle on June 02, 2014, 11:33:50 AM
I have cleared codes and driven to the inspection before, 5 miles.
Similar for me. Last year I failed mine because of a bad 02. Drove it home, picked up a new sensor, installed/cleared, went back the same day and passed. About 15 miles from my house to the place I got it inspected. Mine's a 97 if year means anything.
Post by: M4wdFab on June 02, 2014, 12:01:44 PM
there is many bs on the web about drive this and that speed.
some tips i have learned for emmissions readyness pass:
a 10 mile anything drive we reset all with two important things: gas tank must read 1/2 full or less, must be a cold start. ie collant cloose to ambient.
there are 5 or 6 on my zj i had a cracked canister hose that fixed the last two tests.
Post by: Harrison on June 02, 2014, 12:10:14 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 02, 2014, 12:12:07 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 03, 2014, 09:47:10 AM
Resetting does not work. Will require further diagnosis. Bah!
Post by: M4wdFab on June 03, 2014, 09:56:17 AM
Post by: Harrison on June 03, 2014, 10:08:09 AM
Post by: Harrison on June 04, 2014, 01:24:20 PM
http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4443009878.html
I'm sure a C6 is worth almost nothing, is that a decent price?
My doubler has a baby intermediate shaft between the 231 and D20. Assuming I'd just need to source the correct shaft to go from 231 to whatever a Ford 205 input is? I read that the Ford case has 6 studs on a slightly larger circle than Jeep stuff and holes can be drill a hair to make it work.
Hey Mike... do you have a Ford 205 on something going to scrap?
Post by: M4wdFab on June 04, 2014, 01:46:30 PM
once you get them mounted right and dont have your yokes over extended, the cases break last.
Post by: Harrison on June 04, 2014, 01:50:47 PM
Post by: rejeep on June 04, 2014, 01:57:43 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 04, 2014, 03:42:53 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 04, 2014, 03:53:16 PM
Maybe I need to give my setup more of a chance. Research shows CJ cases share the same 10 spline as Bronco. Dan was hopping pretty good with 4:1 in front of it and 39" stickies...
Post by: M4wdFab on June 04, 2014, 04:03:53 PM
used to bring a spare to big dogs with the CJ after 10 min into a RC trip it snappered.
Post by: Harrison on June 06, 2014, 02:27:48 PM
Failed emissions yesterday, granted a 60 day extension period from yesterday, stood in line and renewed reg today. Success!!!
Sucks my reg still expires at the same time in December 2015... but at least I get two more summers out of it! They don't revoke your reg if you don't pass emissions in the 60 days, just means you can't renew next time around until you pass and you don't get a free retest.
Post by: mr.mindless on June 06, 2014, 03:28:53 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 06, 2014, 03:56:06 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 11, 2014, 12:50:17 PM
No more chasing down stock housings. New harness ordered.
Post by: JEEPWERX on June 11, 2014, 12:57:22 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 11, 2014, 01:28:01 PM
Post by: etk300ex on June 11, 2014, 01:29:50 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 11, 2014, 01:34:51 PM
side markers?
Didn't even think of that. Does it need to flash with turn signal as well? Or just tail light.
We don't have safety inspection, seems unlikely a cop would get me for that. I suppose I may attract attention of a cop looking for someone to give a ticket though...
Post by: mr.mindless on June 11, 2014, 01:40:18 PM
I just grounded mine through the bright circuit, so it flashed with the turn signal with lights off, and against the turn signal with lights on. Made it go out with brakes applied and lights on, but I was happy enough since I didn't have a just-signal light to work with back there on mine (though you do - you could put a light between the tail light and the signal. If it's an LED you need a rectifier since polarity will run both ways)
Post by: jaysenodell on June 11, 2014, 02:23:14 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 11, 2014, 04:55:54 PM
Should do the same with The Mule.
Post by: Harrison on July 06, 2014, 08:19:44 PM
Converter is smooshed, definitely killing top end performance (little I have) and needs shocks. Then I can... kinda street it?
Blew out another rear window. Smooshed the roof into the cage in a couple spots. Only a matter of time before that's the entire thing, I'm sure. Need to get the unibody/cage tie in plates done before it's too late to do anything. Also needs tube tied into front unibody plating/bumper. Leaf mounts on both ends need rebuilding this winter, assuming they last that long [knock on wood.]
Creepies really bring the suck when any moisture is involved. A little disappointing. Thinking I will do some weld on beadlocks on some stock Ford 8 lug steel wheels. Eventually thinking Krawlers and nice beadlocks.
Post by: M4wdFab on July 06, 2014, 08:25:47 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 28, 2014, 12:03:26 PM
Looking to quiet it down a bit though. Hollowed cat and 12" glass pack leave some muffling to be desired. 28" glass pack and turbo muffler are within $5 of each other... Thoughts on which will be louder?
Post by: Harrison on July 28, 2014, 12:04:46 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 28, 2014, 12:09:03 PM
but I'd love to see you do it. It's just a huge commitment... and fraught with even more room for trouble than the tow rig.
Post by: Wingman on July 28, 2014, 12:13:55 PM
Looking to quiet it down a bit though. Hollowed cat and 12" glass pack leave some muffling to be desired. 28" glass pack and turbo muffler are within $5 of each other... Thoughts on which will be louder?
I think a glasspack will always be louder since it's straight-through.
Thought has crossed my mind to sell all things tow rig and use the money for Atlas, 1350 driveshafts, more tube and just hawg this thing everywhere UA style. Drove it to gas station down Molleystown Rd and back and was pleasantly surprised.
In theory, this sounds cool. Fiscally, very appealing. But reality will hurt when you have that breakage you can't or don't want to fix in a parking lot.
Post by: mr.mindless on July 28, 2014, 12:22:47 PM
reality will hurt when you have that breakage you can't or don't want to fix in a parking lot.
Now that you mention that:
I remember one of my last trips driving the Dakota before I got a tow rig, when I spent the weekend running for parts and then cobbling together a driveshaft in the parking lot instead of wheeling...
Post by: JEEPWERX on July 28, 2014, 12:24:01 PM
Keep the truck.
Find something else to sell.
Glass pack is louder... i know that's what I just installed.
Post by: Harrison on July 28, 2014, 12:25:04 PM
Don't do it!
but I'd love to see you do it. It's just a huge commitment... and fraught with even more room for trouble than the tow rig.
That's what I've been telling myself for a long time. But I was extremely lucky my truck let go 30 minutes from home. If it was further, I'd have been really stranded and really stretching a favor from a friend to come rescue my Jeep on my trailer. If I just have my Jeep and it totally shits at Rausch, I ride home with someone else and borrow a truck to get it later. If it shits on the way home, I just hope I'm within 100 miles from home and use AAA or cheat and string a couple tows together or something. Seems simpler to me...
Post by: Wingman on July 28, 2014, 12:27:09 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 28, 2014, 12:42:24 PM
fix your hawg, bank on money saved with fuel source
Post by: Ryan on July 28, 2014, 12:45:52 PM
Should have kept the Suburban... ;D
Post by: Harrison on July 28, 2014, 12:52:34 PM
Post by: Hannah on July 28, 2014, 01:07:36 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 28, 2014, 01:18:13 PM
Fix truck or get a slightly better one that may or may not be just as annoying
smart girl
get another parts truck, make money on it again after you take what you need.
Post by: jaysenodell on July 28, 2014, 01:28:24 PM
And keep Hannah.Fix truck or get a slightly better one that may or may not be just as annoying
smart girl
get another parts truck, make money on it again after you take what you need.
Between wheeling, cookies, and truck advice I think you've hit the jackpot.
;)
Post by: Harrison on July 28, 2014, 01:29:31 PM
Fix truck or get a slightly better one that may or may not be just as annoying
smart girl
get another parts truck, make money on it again after you take what you need.
She is, and she is right. I'm just disgruntled and need it off my radar for a while.
Post by: JEEPWERX on July 28, 2014, 01:35:33 PM
Post by: Wingman on July 28, 2014, 01:41:51 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 28, 2014, 01:56:35 PM
Post by: etk300ex on July 28, 2014, 07:42:29 PM
Post by: etk300ex on July 28, 2014, 07:43:37 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 28, 2014, 08:18:02 PM
1/2 ton gasser is where's it's at!
(http://www.radioitalo4you.net/forum/images/smiles/flame.gif)
Post by: Harrison on July 28, 2014, 09:47:12 PM
Give it a week you'll be back lol
Maybe.
Probably.
Post by: Harrison on July 28, 2014, 09:48:25 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 28, 2014, 11:49:06 PM
And exchange it for a whole new set of problems!!
Post by: Wingman on July 29, 2014, 07:33:27 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 29, 2014, 09:37:09 AM
Post by: Hannah on July 29, 2014, 09:39:01 AM
just leave it out side and let it think about what it has done for a while. thats what we do with cars / trucks / trailers when they are badHA HA!
Post by: Harrison on July 29, 2014, 09:54:39 AM
It's been very bad and I have apparently not need good about disciplining it. Now go sit in the corner of the lawn facing away from all the other trucks and jeeps!!!
Post by: Nick on July 29, 2014, 01:54:12 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 29, 2014, 02:09:24 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 30, 2014, 08:05:49 PM
In addition to 0500 for the speedo, I'm getting:
0122 - usually tps?
1694 - usually crank sensor? but it runs so Idk
0705 - usually NSS, weird because it always works
Would any or all of those things adversely affect performance? It could probably use a tube up as well.
So about that UA wheeling thing.
Post by: M4wdFab on July 31, 2014, 08:48:55 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 31, 2014, 09:20:05 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on July 31, 2014, 09:22:04 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 31, 2014, 09:23:43 AM
Going to do TPS, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and air filter. Go from there. Has a slight hesitation when you hit the gas and feels gutless over 2k. Also haven't done an oil change in a loooooooong time...
Post by: Nick on July 31, 2014, 09:30:06 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 31, 2014, 09:54:00 AM
Post by: etk300ex on July 31, 2014, 09:55:05 AM
Post by: Harrison on August 04, 2014, 09:25:38 AM
Other issue is ride/handing which I'm going to attribute mostly to shocks, somewhat to surely softened springs from years of crawling. When I hit whoops in the road, it feels like it almost wants to become airborne, then comes back down and I feel like I'm going to lose control.
I had a set of 8" Bilstein 5150s donated that have the body eyelet broken off. May be able to make a weld repair and get a little more out of them. Same friend has a set of good condition 12" 5150s he's willing to sell for $100.
Having been a white body shock guy my whole life, I feel these will offer a decent improvement in handing in all conditions. Is it worth springing for another couple 10" or 12" 5150s at $120/ea? Or would I be wiser to use the 12"/8" combo I'm getting dirt cheap and spring for something nicer like a 7100 or Fox emulsion or remote resi shock down the road.
Can someone (Ryan?) school me on all the different shock construction types? I'm obviously not setup to go fast, but it would be nice to not smash my bumpstops on pole line road and feel more in control on the road.
Post by: Harrison on August 10, 2014, 07:55:38 PM
Drives WAY nicer now. Sweet 55mph machine
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/11/qu6eqahy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/11/qy4aveju.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on August 11, 2014, 08:19:39 AM
Post by: Harrison on August 11, 2014, 08:29:47 AM
Post by: JEEPWERX on August 11, 2014, 05:09:13 PM
It's all you need to keep the skeeters out!
Post by: M4wdFab on August 11, 2014, 05:20:10 PM
Post by: Harrison on August 11, 2014, 10:07:59 PM
Post by: Harrison on August 18, 2014, 11:43:12 AM
I've ended up in second the last two races we've had by less than a second each.
This race was a lot of high speed with mostly 6-12" dia rocks with minimal technical terrain. 5150s were miles better than the old white bodies! Rear end still kinda hops around but much better.
First stage of the race I was 1:21, my buddy Andy ended up with a 1:18. Second run I was trying to make up time and NAILED a tree with my passenger front tire head on doing probably 15mph or so with probably 1/2-3/4 throttle. Felt like a car accident.
Took out:
Steering box
Upper ball joint
Caliper
Appears to have exploded the nuts that hold the spindle to the knuckle
Broke welds that hold sleeve for heim bolt into knuckle
Was fun to steer the 1.5 miles out of the trail with no power assist and a broken box. Cut the pressure line to the box and looped it into the top of the res to keep the pump from running dry.
No evidence of any unibody structural damage. Lower link mount would have take the brunt of the impact and that appeared unscathed.
This things needs more tube and money thrown at the front end... or for me to stop driving it like an ultra4 car :-\
What is the upgrade for spindle studs? Smike, did I read you drilled and tapped knuckles for 5/8 gr8 bolts?
Post by: mr.mindless on August 18, 2014, 11:52:49 AM
Where's the vids? :)
Whatever you do on spindle bolts, I would suggest keeping fine thread. Not sure what's been done to our cars on those. Dakota was still all stock stuff up there.
Post by: Harrison on August 18, 2014, 11:55:55 AM
There's vids from the Rausch crawl daddy comp last month, but not the first race or this past weekend. He says vids are coming... Though I am afraid he sadly has higher priority video projects :)
Post by: Harrison on August 18, 2014, 12:10:02 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on August 18, 2014, 12:36:33 PM
smike has solid inner C's so I assume their stronger than stock.
Not sure any stud would hold up against that type of impact.
Trees are unforgiving @ Speed.
Post by: Hannah on August 18, 2014, 01:07:59 PM
Post by: Harrison on August 18, 2014, 01:11:13 PM
Post by: Hannah on August 18, 2014, 01:12:08 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on August 18, 2014, 01:27:18 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on August 18, 2014, 01:29:58 PM
tap and drill to coarse thread 5/8" bolts will then fail a Chevy knuckle in half rather than strip off the high steer arm. it was worlds of upgrade from half inch stock studs.
next is what 571 and 928 have, solid knuckles. after that, what 572 has, solid knuckles, solid C's and knewly added Artec tied in arms. I can head on bounce a 28PSI tire off a 12" oak at 20 mph and no care.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 18, 2014, 01:32:04 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on August 18, 2014, 01:34:28 PM
Post by: Harrison on August 18, 2014, 02:58:53 PM
I need to look at rules and figure out what class I'd be in but I'm afraid my cage isn't going to pass inspection without an engineer signoff... Based on a convo with other friends here that are looking to get into it. I can't remember if it was wall thickness or OD or both, but I'd qualify under the 4000lb class but not the next one up.
Post by: mr.mindless on August 18, 2014, 04:12:54 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on August 18, 2014, 05:12:36 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on August 18, 2014, 05:35:22 PM
He'll yes dude!
Post by: Harrison on October 19, 2014, 05:28:15 PM
Apparently ball joints are not tree-impact certified
Post by: TrailTamer on October 20, 2014, 02:19:26 AM
Post by: SlvrJK on October 21, 2014, 05:30:08 AM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/poly-performance/944903-new-dana-30-dana-44-dana-60-ball-joints-synergy-suspension.html
These are what I run in the JK, solid units for sure.
Post by: Harrison on October 21, 2014, 08:44:40 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on October 21, 2014, 09:40:50 AM
Post by: TrailTamer on October 21, 2014, 10:55:08 AM
I currently running XRF ball joints and it cost me $300 If I remember correctly.
Post by: Harrison on November 16, 2014, 09:14:21 PM
Need to get the front tied in. Plan is to straighten front bumper and have a piece run from A-pillar straight forward to bumper. Tie into stiffeners on front of unibody, particularly to tie in steering box and trackbar mounting sections (on both sides.) Probably add an engine crossbar.
Was thinking about doing exo for this stuff, but I think I'm going to stick with the "let the sheetmetal conform to the tube" idea the rest of the Jeep is destined for. Should be fun keeping all that stuff mostly behind the fenders and under the hood. Will's Jeep has the cage poke through the front fenders in a couple spots through ovalized holes, thinking that will be necessary for what I want to do.
This thing did not get out on the trail enough this year :'( Need to change that next year! Right, Mark? ;)
Post by: Harrison on November 16, 2014, 09:44:27 PM
I don't hate this. I suspect I'd not like it as much if the tube didn't match the fender color. Meh
Post by: Harrison on November 22, 2014, 09:55:41 PM
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/22/f794dd6d285741c3b2511dc2c001ccfd.jpg)
At least between all the Jeeps we've had in and out of our garage I've never had to actually pay for any of those boxes I grenade.
Broke the tap off inside the new box
fortunately there is another one kicking around here.Who has a good link on the forklift orbital/TSC single ended ram steering stuff? Or part numbers? Might start keeping an eye out for a deal on an orbital. Seeing the writing on the wall and am having a hard time swallowing $1500 for PSC...
Post by: Harrison on November 22, 2014, 10:11:24 PM
Post by: Harrison on December 19, 2014, 10:11:45 AM
Should have made the decision to go with ram and hoses immediately after this happened. Oh well
Post by: mr.mindless on December 19, 2014, 10:23:10 AM
Post by: Harrison on December 19, 2014, 10:30:01 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on December 19, 2014, 10:43:30 AM
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16007_0104_07.htm
nut with a stub on the end, into a bearing on a mount. Essentially double sheering the pitman arm mount with the box on top and a strong bearing on the bottom.
Post by: M4wdFab on December 19, 2014, 10:47:26 AM
Post by: Harrison on December 19, 2014, 10:49:03 AM
Post by: Harrison on December 21, 2014, 02:09:53 PM
Post by: Harrison on December 21, 2014, 06:34:32 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on December 21, 2014, 07:37:16 PM
;)
Post by: Harrison on December 29, 2014, 11:19:54 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on December 30, 2014, 12:12:34 AM
buy real wheels
i hear inner airs suck for mounting with out destroying them
Post by: Harrison on December 30, 2014, 12:51:52 PM
Guy with the wheels and locks is an experienced wheeler and fabricator, someone who's opinion I'd trust. He had great luck with them.
Other option is some free stock Ford steelies with $285 of weld on beadlocks
Post by: mr.mindless on December 30, 2014, 02:04:16 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Wingman on December 30, 2014, 03:32:26 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on December 30, 2014, 09:06:16 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 02, 2015, 04:26:43 PM
Post by: tony on January 02, 2015, 07:58:11 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 02, 2015, 09:08:22 PM
Post by: etk300ex on January 03, 2015, 09:44:43 AM
Post by: JEEPWERX on January 03, 2015, 10:55:44 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 06, 2015, 11:39:29 AM
32 spline output for current D20 $400 (no option to upgrade front)
Source Dodge 205 with 23spl input and figure out mounting to current doubler $noclue and a shitload of fabrication work to support it
Build a 4:1 D300 with 32spl outputs and ditch doubler $1400 + D300 itself (Dan recently paid $1300ish for my identical setup, so could come close to breaking even)
Atlas ($2300-3500 depending on options and gearing)
If I could upgrade my D20 front output I'd just go that route. If I could get a 4:1 205 I'd get rid of everything and do that. Need more shrong with decent gearing but no good, cheap options for me.
Post by: M4wdFab on January 06, 2015, 11:59:58 AM
sell your stuff?
Post by: Harrison on January 06, 2015, 12:08:25 PM
Hate to say it but built D300 seems like as good an option as any right now.
Post by: Harrison on January 06, 2015, 04:21:11 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on January 06, 2015, 04:29:39 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 06, 2015, 04:35:47 PM
Arie, did you have a D300 with a 4:1 kit in it already?
Post by: JEEPWERX on January 06, 2015, 04:38:49 PM
It will still be cheaper than spending min 2500 on an atlas.
Post by: Harrison on January 11, 2015, 06:13:04 PM
Spare me the fluxcore and 4 link comments! Will probably add another brace of some kind on the front. Not sure what I want it to look like yet and it can be added later.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/11/908cb992567e3d94b83c103e67b2c5fb.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/11/1ed33a9f1c50d7f823d30da5e35cabed.jpg)
Post by: Harrison on January 25, 2015, 02:55:10 PM
https://totalmetalinnovations.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=130&products_id=384&zenid=a1496435d98b8f0ecdf3541096085ac3
Decided I'm going to buy the $400 output for my case. I can't find anyone who is having issues with breaking front outputs on their 20. Found a local guy who does cryo treating, haven't decided if I think that's worth it for the front. Estimating it will run around $20.
Got an S10 pack someone was using for the same amount of lift in another XJ. Same dimensions as the Dodge van leaves I had in there that give a nice shackle angle but the S10 leaves have the center pin 3" further back. So I added about 2" more of stretch. The AA 32 spline output is about 1.5" longer so this works perfectly for letting me continue to use stock XJ front driveshafts.
The S10 packs are significantly less HD than the van leaves. I'm hoping this helps with flex a little, but I was worried about axle wrap so I bought some brackets and bushings from Ruff Stuff and pieced together a traction bar from steel and old heims I had laying around. Went with the "slip and twist" design to save ground clearance. 3/16" wall 2" square tube with 1-5/8" 1/8" wall inside. Made the upper link mount long to hopefully help combat bending. Hopefully it doesn't bend. Had to scooch the exhaust over a little bit to clear it so I'm going to need to go back to glasspack style or maybe relocate the muffler further back though I doubt that will work.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/34fd2d10456482d5be7a4e6cc7085057.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/59942085a9ad1ab0cc02514bf63c457e.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/f54eed160cf3cc6f6168282fbe74f10d.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/25/85c03a0e47d1ef9c3a22d46abf14c15b.jpg)
Post by: Callelle on January 25, 2015, 03:39:17 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 25, 2015, 04:03:28 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on January 26, 2015, 12:32:58 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 26, 2015, 10:21:45 AM
Post by: Harrison on February 25, 2015, 10:28:15 AM
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/25/405d5d4a359bed2a6961422f5b871a1f.jpg)
Post by: JEEPWERX on February 25, 2015, 01:04:25 PM
;) LOL
Post by: Harrison on February 25, 2015, 01:13:39 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on February 25, 2015, 01:17:59 PM
Post by: Harrison on February 25, 2015, 01:18:55 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on February 25, 2015, 01:21:15 PM
good luck with that sir- you are braver than I
Post by: Harrison on February 25, 2015, 01:36:55 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on February 25, 2015, 01:40:27 PM
Jeff and Gif deal with them leaking, slime fixed most.
Post by: gif on February 25, 2015, 04:35:46 PM
Ryans sucked the worse
Jeff and Gif deal with them leaking, slime fixed most.
Slime fixed all my leaks.
Post by: Ryan on February 25, 2015, 04:58:10 PM
I remember that the coning was the worst part of it. You really do need anti-coning rings welded on as well.
Post by: Harrison on February 25, 2015, 06:22:54 PM
Post by: Harrison on February 27, 2015, 10:48:36 PM
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/27/0c88402f87706f4376aa4730be49efe6.jpg)
Post by: Wingman on February 28, 2015, 09:07:58 AM
What did your bead width measure when completed?
Post by: Harrison on February 28, 2015, 10:19:26 AM
looks like slime is in my future.For Mark:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/28/c56da72f3a1e96d78ef0e46c54b37f11.jpg)
Post by: Wingman on February 28, 2015, 10:58:37 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 01, 2015, 04:57:24 PM
Post by: jaysenodell on March 01, 2015, 05:06:01 PM
Looks sweet!
Post by: Enginerd on March 01, 2015, 05:46:51 PM
I welded up a set last fall from AtoZ, because I too couldn't justify the cost of new. Mine will leak down about 5 lbs over the course of 2 weeks, which is easy enough to deal with. Will probably give all of the bolts another 1/2 turn before spring hits.
Post by: Harrison on March 01, 2015, 06:09:51 PM
Post by: Wingman on March 01, 2015, 06:24:35 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 01, 2015, 06:26:03 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 05, 2015, 07:43:05 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 06, 2015, 07:50:58 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 06, 2015, 09:17:40 AM
Post by: rejeep on March 06, 2015, 09:25:17 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 06, 2015, 09:27:15 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 08, 2015, 07:16:27 PM
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/08/444f75ae3b099702107f70af2aa9f4bf.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/08/67831b311b0116a6dcf69e4508b2180e.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/08/afae279928acbef75ad00e6a615c6e42.jpg)
Post by: Harrison on March 08, 2015, 08:13:58 PM
Post by: Wingman on March 08, 2015, 10:11:47 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 08, 2015, 10:21:22 PM
Post by: Wingman on March 08, 2015, 10:34:43 PM
Post by: dubt on March 08, 2015, 10:51:08 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 09, 2015, 01:01:01 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 09, 2015, 01:07:25 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 09, 2015, 01:22:16 PM
Why did I think you had put in a 300? We're you considering it a while back?
Post by: M4wdFab on March 09, 2015, 01:25:04 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 09, 2015, 01:36:01 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 09, 2015, 01:45:17 PM
Sounds like same as 300 front output... not many guys having issues there.
Post by: Harrison on March 09, 2015, 01:46:34 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 09, 2015, 02:04:44 PM
i think i only broke one front before.
Post by: gif on March 09, 2015, 09:07:52 PM
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l264/jeepgif/5ECFD9D8-12BB-4BEC-8973-82B09036FF88_zpsud6vy9lh.png) (http://s98.photobucket.com/user/jeepgif/media/5ECFD9D8-12BB-4BEC-8973-82B09036FF88_zpsud6vy9lh.png.html)
Post by: Harrison on March 09, 2015, 09:37:07 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 09, 2015, 09:38:12 PM
Post by: gif on March 09, 2015, 10:08:12 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 09, 2015, 10:21:41 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 09, 2015, 10:28:03 PM
Post by: gif on March 10, 2015, 06:42:02 AM
What were you doing when they failed?
wheeling
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 10, 2015, 07:26:36 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 07, 2015, 10:10:40 PM
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/ff2c1bea3a70ed69d9b5bc3189127158.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/44b82eb42dcd57f91bc49b0068b0c997.jpg)
Post by: JEEPWERX on April 08, 2015, 11:57:56 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 13, 2015, 10:59:52 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/13/5e4788faa6b0fb8a09ed5bd36772dab2.jpg)
Post by: dubt on April 14, 2015, 12:05:32 AM
Post by: Harrison on April 17, 2015, 09:52:53 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/d30ac0c870950adc5a870187ce382cb0.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/a706432e5d3d9d0beaac2385614e98d3.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/36f7dab69ebf3aa83400aa30fd282e76.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/17/37981c988bdb0b7f9c3bb26eec692b09.jpg)
Post by: SlvrJK on April 19, 2015, 08:31:48 AM
Post by: Harrison on May 04, 2015, 03:34:04 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/04/0685c47a82050e3f21c574654d16194b.jpg)
Other option I came up with was this. Pulley on front axle. Allows the recovery winch to stay as recovery but is generally kind of a claptrap:
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/04/8dfc1f1d811dea2e24688a51fc11fd3e.jpg)
Leaning towards first option.
Post by: mr.mindless on May 04, 2015, 04:23:29 PM
option 2 is the way to go if you want to run a suckdown.
Post by: Harrison on May 04, 2015, 04:36:36 PM
WTF is that rolling over on option 1?
Piece of DOM. Seems like a good option to me if you're running rope and don't care about giving up the recovery winch during times you need the suckdown.
Post by: M4wdFab on May 04, 2015, 05:03:06 PM
so much hassel and after you break the cable 3 times you will give up
Post by: mr.mindless on May 04, 2015, 05:12:16 PM
Post by: Harrison on May 04, 2015, 10:38:13 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on May 28, 2015, 03:41:24 PM
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-23350-h38347.aspx?make=Chevrolet&parttype=Brake%20Hose&origin=keyword
Post by: Harrison on June 02, 2015, 09:29:30 PM
The ram breaking off the axle would be a nightmare. Looking for opinions on schrongness of this mount. Seems good to me tying into inner c and trackbar mount, and will of course have some added gussets where useful.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/02/715f25209f502295f1c2842778620133.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/02/b5d70d64cd8597b1d2b9f8bc7861c007.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/02/5414c8b35330b91f888949fe51bfd877.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/02/7bac4a03e54d305796e18975315c6e32.jpg)
Post by: Wingman on June 03, 2015, 07:29:29 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 03, 2015, 09:17:13 AM
how does the tie rod flop when cycled with load? not too bad?
Post by: mr.mindless on June 03, 2015, 09:22:38 AM
how does the tie rod flop when cycled with load? not too bad?
That was my second thought, right after "are you sure that isn't backwards?"
This is for full hydro, not assist. You don't want any slop in there. If there's any way you can get that ram acting on a steering arm, do it. Get a bling passenger knuckle, run the ram to a high steer arm, and hang a mount off the front of the axle where you have a TON of non-cast material to weld it to.
Post by: M4wdFab on June 03, 2015, 09:43:45 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on June 03, 2015, 10:04:19 AM
If it fits where it is right now, it's got to be damn close to fitting flipped around and connecting to the knuckle.
Post by: M4wdFab on June 03, 2015, 10:12:53 AM
Post by: Harrison on June 03, 2015, 11:28:10 AM
My original plan was a mount that welded to the pumpkin and tube, but I found that the body of the ram barely fits and once fittings were on they'd be going through the oil pan. Plus it would have to be really long to get where I needed. I figured having the body mounting pin vertical was mandatory and I don't have options for relocating both ports on the ram. I don't think attaching to a knuckle is going to work at all, but I will take another look at flipping the ram around. Diff cover would probably make for the cleanest mount if it's a sound platform, I was reading mixed reviews on that for full hydro setups. Assist ram was mounted there.
The flop of the tie rod seemed to be within the margin of misalignment of the heims with the setup as-is.
I believe the inner c is steel not iron, so successful welding isn't out of the question I don't think. Will require preheating of c and some sort of insulated wrap to slow the cooling.
Post by: Harrison on June 03, 2015, 10:18:01 PM
I think the shot of the cover tab shows why I even a 10" tall bracket off the axle tube wouldn't fit with the trackbar where it is.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/03/07ac64bc47694754befd26b3027bdcbb.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/03/90fc1b52478418858839d1443f3962f6.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on June 03, 2015, 10:35:45 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on June 04, 2015, 12:41:12 AM
Post by: Harrison on June 04, 2015, 08:54:29 AM
Post by: etk300ex on June 04, 2015, 11:19:02 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 04, 2015, 01:08:28 PM
Post by: Wingman on June 04, 2015, 01:27:54 PM
..doing work !
When? Prove it.
In and out of the garage bay doesn't count. :P
Post by: etk300ex on June 04, 2015, 02:07:55 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 04, 2015, 02:16:06 PM
Post by: etk300ex on June 04, 2015, 02:45:54 PM
Post by: Wingman on June 04, 2015, 04:31:09 PM
Post by: Harrison on June 07, 2015, 07:45:40 PM
Diff mount. I can see the flange pulled slightly away from casting while welding even with bolts tightened. Not sure what else I could have done. May see if a friend can mill it flat again if it ends up being an issue.
I didn't get the 211 dialed in so they look a little goobery but they are hot. I am not much of an out of position MIG welder.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/07/d13e66d8104c08e1b0106414740eebf2.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/07/7f8b0e8726c6927d2decb4950854b915.jpg)
Need to pull tie rod off to burn in the mount and paint it. Adjust trackbar 1/4" shorter to keep fitting away from pan and full bump. Grind diff cover a hair more to clear tie rod at full driver lock. Then put it all back together.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/07/f3723e28acddc4a81153a22d8881abba.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/07/d6c9d166230199d02cd001fe6e252499.jpg)
Post by: Wingman on June 07, 2015, 08:03:29 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on June 07, 2015, 09:13:55 PM
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Post by: Harrison on June 07, 2015, 09:33:06 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on June 07, 2015, 10:21:20 PM
or belt sand it or grind it if its super off....
Post by: JEEPWERX on June 08, 2015, 07:46:55 AM
I noticed those.
I think your right. That could make all the difference.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Post by: Harrison on June 09, 2015, 09:56:17 AM
I need to order a collar to use to limit the ram. Last 1" or so is unused when I hit the stops. Dan came over and cycled it while I watched, it does start to bow the tie rod down a little. Holy crap, I did not expect that kind of force from that thing.
Post by: Harrison on July 19, 2015, 09:53:20 PM
I see me getting in and out far less frequently during the day now. Haha
Post by: Nick on July 19, 2015, 09:59:19 PM
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2015, 07:28:24 AM
Post by: Wingman on July 20, 2015, 07:42:37 AM
(http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/graphics/00000001/trick%20tab%20insert.jpg)
Post by: M4wdFab on July 20, 2015, 09:40:44 AM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2015, 10:25:31 AM
I need to dzues my tins. I'm SO tired of bolts.
Post by: M4wdFab on July 20, 2015, 11:51:25 AM
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2015, 11:57:54 AM
good luck with that and east coast trees
Bolts or those Dzus things?
Post by: M4wdFab on July 20, 2015, 12:52:29 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2015, 01:52:33 PM
Agreed it may be an issue but I'm willing to try it.
Post by: M4wdFab on July 20, 2015, 02:40:48 PM
if you order them get me 4 sets of things
Post by: Harrison on July 20, 2015, 07:47:23 PM
if you order them get me 4 sets of things
I'm gonna order what Mark linked. I'm assuming you meant if I ordered the other Dzus doodas.
Post by: M4wdFab on July 20, 2015, 08:11:48 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on July 20, 2015, 09:17:03 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on August 03, 2015, 04:17:23 PM
Need to get some more tube work done and get it painted.
Atlas, beadlocks, 40s...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/03/93e470d946862515c85d9bb3feaa8475.jpg)
Post by: Harrison on September 28, 2015, 11:12:36 AM
Post by: Harrison on November 13, 2015, 04:53:07 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/13/ec368b7559e1f58d3248a135ec41cf31.jpg)
Krawlers next
Post by: Hannah on November 13, 2015, 05:26:44 PM
Post by: dubt on November 13, 2015, 06:27:21 PM
Post by: Wingman on November 13, 2015, 07:00:32 PM
Post by: rejeep on November 13, 2015, 07:07:21 PM
Classic and not obnoxious.
Post by: mr.mindless on November 13, 2015, 11:37:19 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: M4wdFab on November 14, 2015, 02:10:19 AM
Post by: JEEPWERX on November 14, 2015, 02:36:35 PM
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Post by: Harrison on November 14, 2015, 02:49:07 PM
Can't wait to have shiny wheels on my wrinkled Jeep.
Post by: Harrison on December 22, 2015, 04:30:38 PM
Two solutions I have come up with:
Ram guard like below but attaches to the diff cover with some kind of flange/bracket welded to the cover that allows the cover to still be removed. Hopefully stiffens everything enough to not loosen. Concerned about building something that bolts together in two different planes, welding distortion may cause issues?
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/c0b2b5fa4cf83fd9560987c339d89ea5.jpg)
Buy something like shown below. Concern being whether or not four 1/2" bolts can provide enough additional clamping force over the countersunk bolts to keep things in place. I think so...? Would still build a simple ram guard separate from cover.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/58679bd254e3f6e9469dd0efaa4edbd2.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on December 22, 2015, 04:45:20 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on December 22, 2015, 04:54:07 PM
Something like this would probably work well too, though I would probably keep it to one flange facing toward the middle.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/217ec288793b7e10b5303a874594de82.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on December 22, 2015, 05:42:51 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on January 03, 2016, 09:19:45 PM
Bracing to come. Thinking two 5/8" bolts on the flange. Forgive the fluxcore tacks, big boy extension cord is at Dan's house...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/03/6565aceaa5d804e18666bb1f5e1e47b4.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/03/7bf646ff8618d87ab1f00158c653b276.jpg)
Post by: mr.mindless on January 04, 2016, 09:21:25 AM
I think I would also put the forward side of that at the tube flush and trim while welding, and have a washer's worth of space against the axle tube, so that it is trying to smoosh the cover on harder rather than having any chance of the brace trying to pull the cover off.
Post by: M4wdFab on January 04, 2016, 12:03:41 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 04, 2016, 12:14:51 PM
im confused.
Where the c clamp is there are two pieces of steel that will be a bolted flange. The diff cover side will become one welded assembly so the cover can still be removed
Post by: Harrison on January 04, 2016, 12:25:46 PM
Seems pretty reasonable. I wonder though, thinking about where your ram mounts, if the twisting force that will result might still be enough to want to tweak the cover?
I think I would also put the forward side of that at the tube flush and trim while welding, and have a washer's worth of space against the axle tube, so that it is trying to smoosh the cover on harder rather than having any chance of the brace trying to pull the cover off.
I do think the twisting is part of the problem, which is why I think the flanges need to be touching with a good amount of preload on them.
I will look at possibly adding a second bolted connection closer to the ram mount, but I think a tightly bolted flange in another plane will be a huge improvement over just 10-12 countersunk bolts.
Post by: Harrison on January 04, 2016, 09:50:00 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/04/96e50c518d6f50c3dfef328f4b41095f.jpg)
Post by: Harrison on January 08, 2016, 10:30:48 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/08/3343226e9ca89e6af7aec601070d2dd1.jpg)
Post by: M4wdFab on January 08, 2016, 11:43:43 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 21, 2016, 10:40:40 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 21, 2016, 10:41:27 AM
Creepies on wheels are for sale if anyone here is interested
Asking $1300 to the lowballing public
Post by: dubt on January 21, 2016, 12:54:04 PM
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk
Post by: Harrison on January 21, 2016, 01:07:29 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 28, 2016, 10:05:48 PM
Going to trim sheetmetal a bit more, lift another 1-2", bumpstop a bit more.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/28/a1ceefd75d8a3a045b68a412b7bdd777.jpg)
Post by: cracker on January 29, 2016, 08:15:36 AM
Post by: Harrison on January 29, 2016, 11:51:42 AM
Post by: matt on January 29, 2016, 01:05:43 PM
Post by: jacel86 on January 29, 2016, 01:24:43 PM
Post by: Harrison on January 30, 2016, 07:28:55 PM
Moving to rear tomorrow at level suspension. Doubting it is going to need much trimming.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/30/7ea1e1943bb1bdd502abde0b4249a34d.jpg)
Post by: Wingman on January 30, 2016, 08:20:18 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 14, 2016, 10:35:40 PM
Added 1.5" of lift and bump to help clear tires. 10" shocks had to go so it got 12" Bilstein 5100s installed all around.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/14/7af01151b84f82987b897ba6e3c95fcc.jpg)
Driver's seat and harness done. Pass side seat ended up ~1" higher in the back due to ??? Dang unibodies? Needs adjusting then finish welding and all that.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/14/e88df14ec5801c99cb7b3593aac2afcc.jpg)
Still have a long punch list of things to do, but seats/harnesses are the last major item. Until I find my tires don't fit once I actually get it flexed out.
I am starting to tire a bit of maintaining this thing. I could see myself being very happy with a lower maintenance (maybe) Atom/Moose type build but that would require me to emotionally unattach myself from this and then take on a lot more work than just patching or cutting this up until I'm happy.
Post by: mr.mindless on March 15, 2016, 07:38:02 AM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Wingman on March 15, 2016, 09:27:54 AM
Post by: KingtheZJ on March 15, 2016, 09:33:23 AM
Post by: Hannah on March 15, 2016, 09:35:55 AM
build that would require me to emotionally unattach myself from this and then take on a lot more work than just patching or cutting this up until I'm happy.
Looking more and more like a Dakota... :P
I told him that last night too! It wont be unattaching emotionally from jeep... It'll be his jeep turning into the look of the Dakota, not necessarily saying cutting up more into his jeep disappearing in a bad way. A new thing would become an attachment too, and a lot of work, but something fun to think about for future when there's time and space. Whatever the jeep ends up being in the future it will still be the same jeep, morphed in a good way. Like everyone, changes with age, and it's just progression and fun shaped into the cage!
Post by: etk300ex on March 15, 2016, 10:37:01 AM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 15, 2016, 11:14:46 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 15, 2016, 12:14:56 PM
I don't feel like I have space that's my own to tie up for buggy build while also maintaining my Jeep. Buggy would also take money - probably doable, but I'd rather spend that money paying off my truck loan ASAP rather than starting another project.
In reality, it will most likely continue to get thin metal cut off or plated over. Body crunching around tube. Maybe an Atlas? About all that's left to break in the drivetrain. That is by far my cheapest and easiest route to getting out on some of these gnarly New England trails on sticky 39s.
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 15, 2016, 12:30:27 PM
Got a few miles in this weekend and it was fun.
Like mike said... it's not always greener on the buggy side of the fence.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Post by: Harrison on March 15, 2016, 01:39:09 PM
I drove it around a bit last year. Get food, fuel up before loading in trailer, etc. Honestly, it drove terrible and seemed like it was turning out to be one of those things that sounded more fun than it actually was. I think I get off more on driving 30 year old computerless diesel things around more than big tire things at this point. Plus stickies.
There are some really badass trails the further you get into the northeast that are about 1/2 the travel time to Rausch for us. I am seeing the writing on the wall that my mostly full bodied thing does not really belong there. Doesn't mean I can't try, I suppose.
Post by: Harrison on March 15, 2016, 02:17:12 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/15/a81e09855cd7a851e7e93c8d45625874.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/15/246a017272084f2eb179e32c0c40d4f6.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/15/7eb8f9b37b3ae3f944c0d603de1b24d0.jpg)
Post by: Wingman on March 15, 2016, 07:54:50 PM
Post by: M4wdFab on March 15, 2016, 08:43:50 PM
Post by: Harrison on March 15, 2016, 09:56:26 PM
buggy looks way easier
From where I am now, I don't think it would be
Post by: Harrison on March 16, 2016, 09:21:30 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/03/16/01ef58c74b31cf495077ef152620fbb5.jpg)
Post by: Wingman on March 16, 2016, 09:56:15 PM
Post by: JEEPWERX on March 17, 2016, 07:44:34 AM
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Post by: mr.mindless on March 17, 2016, 08:55:56 AM
Any chance it could have been there pre-cage? Is there a low spreader in front or could the bottoms of the A pillars be coming together with front axle loads on the links somehow?
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: rejeep on March 17, 2016, 08:57:21 AM
Post by: Harrison on March 17, 2016, 09:14:52 AM
Rear hatch is still there and functioning.
Post by: Hannah on April 02, 2016, 07:01:59 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/899d40251dd960f9859726fcfb87f2b1.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/e6b40f9e1fc31fc59032073d0f0e03bf.jpg)
Post by: M4wdFab on April 02, 2016, 07:11:02 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 02, 2016, 07:47:01 PM
Just about ready for Big Dogs
Post by: Harrison on April 09, 2016, 06:38:42 PM
Will finish other side tomorrow. Also need to move shock mounts on axle outboard of current mounts, pass side shock was bending from interference with unibody rail at full droop.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/84e3659f458538bf139e9fa32ce27eae.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/92471df8bd9370912bba2a93554b7d6d.jpg)
Post by: Wingman on April 09, 2016, 06:56:21 PM
Post by: Harrison on April 10, 2016, 06:31:52 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on April 10, 2016, 07:08:11 PM
Tapatalking in traffic
Post by: Harrison on August 15, 2016, 08:59:00 AM
Rear driver caliper bracket had broken so that was replaced and prototype Torq locker was reinstalled for good after being sent out for inspection.
Front end had a Torq unit installed as well. Found backlash a bit loose, driver upper ball joint loose (still Moog junk never changed from initial swap on that side) and pass side wheel bearing sounded pretty rumbly during tightening.
Wheeling the next 3 out of 4 weekends so hopefully <200hp and low speed will keep it alive! Probably looking at a full tear down again this winter to remedy all. Lot of work with steering attached to cover.
On the plus side, I am very much looking forward to being able to steer in driveways or parking lots!
Post by: M on August 15, 2016, 02:40:15 PM
Post by: Harrison on August 15, 2016, 10:40:19 PM
First pic of this page looks so awesome. I dig it more than any buggy.
Thanks M! If only it wheeled like a buggy...
Post by: Hannah on August 29, 2016, 10:17:31 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/904fc433074dc4b28e24014d60efeae7.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/6bd06e92bd35c896a8076671df0bdfa5.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/315bd883249d6767e6541cbff5126def.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/645e582a46671e4f3dd8683711585cab.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/e863432cf6355264527cb1cf6d6573c7.jpg)
Post by: Hannah on August 29, 2016, 10:20:20 PM
https://vimeo.com/180681174 (https://vimeo.com/180681174)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: dubt on August 30, 2016, 08:06:19 AM
Post by: M on August 31, 2016, 10:10:23 AM
Last hill climb at end of "Easy Street" with a buggy after H for comparison
https://vimeo.com/180681174 (https://vimeo.com/180681174)
Awesome video. The XJ looked like it had a easier time going through that compared to buggy (was he showing off though?)
Post by: Harrison on October 29, 2016, 11:17:13 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/f8811ab4d1cdbb9d03e441b899e8687f.jpg)
Will inspect tomorrow, but damage seemed minimal considering how hard the roll.
Post by: Hannah on October 29, 2016, 11:31:26 PM
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/f07fed08b2d889687c8a965259364376.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/4633e76058fd9b244b13bb275f79346e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161030/cb9369ff32d74f4e8564f4406672d243.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: mr.mindless on October 29, 2016, 11:40:57 PM
Do I spy still-whole windshield glass?
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Post by: Harrison on October 29, 2016, 11:45:00 PM
Post by: Wingman on October 30, 2016, 09:42:57 AM
Post by: Harrison on February 14, 2017, 09:34:21 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170215/78237944bcbc5c590018bcd72b16150e.jpg)
Prepping for a large winter upgrade expenditure. But still less than last year's winter upgrade expenditures.
Post by: M4wdFab on February 14, 2017, 09:38:26 PM
Post by: Harrison on February 14, 2017, 09:41:18 PM
I will at some point. It's fine. This is an upgrade for anything I build down the road.
Post by: M4wdFab on February 14, 2017, 09:46:14 PM
8-9$ a foot assembled is do able. most cars are 180-230' of tube. can always do the hard parts and leave the straight stuff for you to fill in makes it easier for me...
Post by: wnyjpgy on February 15, 2017, 07:40:28 AM
I've been looking at options for a twin stick drivers drop case, and that has never crossed my mind...
Details are appreciated..
Post by: Harrison on February 15, 2017, 12:00:45 PM
Wish you could just 4:1 a 205 but you can't. Atlas it is.
Smike, we can talk sometime at Rausch this year. I have been watching a lot of small light 4cyl rigs on big stickies just killing it this past year and have had that path on my mind. Work space is an issue right now for me building something ground up.
Post by: Hannah on February 15, 2017, 12:08:45 PM
build a buggy already man
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: M4wdFab on February 16, 2017, 12:02:06 PM
what drives the need for such gearing? lack of hp / trans cooling?
Post by: mr.mindless on February 16, 2017, 01:40:48 PM
For hauling ass, if there's enough ponies to turn the tires 2:1 is just fine. I wouldn't want to try to cone dodge with it or run super technical lines.
Post by: Harrison on February 16, 2017, 03:33:57 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on February 20, 2017, 10:39:40 AM
Post by: Harrison on February 20, 2017, 12:15:57 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on February 20, 2017, 02:02:58 PM
Post by: TrailTamer on February 20, 2017, 02:42:00 PM
something powerglide based that would shift on the fly under power would shave some time and be bombproof but probably not worth the weight and driveline length since a transfer case gear or chain drive would still be needed. Would be the size of a 203 or more.
Engineering is a beautiful thing.
tap auto trans's line pressure with a solenoid to flow or release the pressure to the range box. most likely use planetary gear set out of automatic transmission, then use piston and such, and more?
I think this is where the new 6L80, 6L90, the newer 6 speed GM auto trans come in picture, no fancy range box or doubler needed.
6L80 is used in 1/2 ton GM trucks and some cars, so they're going to be plentiful
first gear is 4.027 with double over drive, 0.852 (5th) 0.667 (6th)
compared to the ancient 3 speed TH400 with first gear at 2.48, third gear (direct) at 1:1.
Novak shows 6L80 to be shorter than TH400, even.
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/automatic/6l80
https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/automatic/th400/
They're relatively bulletproof in stock form IIRC. 8)
*end thread derail*
Post by: Harrison on May 07, 2017, 11:16:00 AM
Post by: Harrison on May 07, 2017, 06:58:53 PM
4.3 Atlas worked great. Front output is now closer to front axle and higher, front driveshaft double cardan not happy even after some grinding for clearance. Ordered fancy Tom Woods offset u joint to run at case front output with single joint shaft. They claim 45* with yoke grinding.
Had issue stalling and backfiring out intake under medium and heavy load at low RPM twice in a row running Gauntlet backwards. Weak fuel pump? MAP sensor or something else that helps engine react to load?
Gauge cluster dead this winter after sitting in trailer for 3 months. Going to try cleaning terminals and reinstall, if no change it's getting my old cheap tablet and wireless OBD reader like Mark and Dennis run.
Got new rear shackle boxes and frame section, some new driveshafts, windshield pulled, cooler stack, fan and shroud, headed panel mounted to fender tube after roll smooshed stock rad support.
Ready for another season of abuse!
Post by: Harrison on January 04, 2018, 08:55:05 PM
Only real upgrade on the list for this winter. Dozen or so maintenance items and it’s ready for another year of abuse.
I think I have decided a Unimog portal axle moon buggy is the next big move. This hawg is slated for a few more years of fun though.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/d9207712d6ec3cd99bae438dde28e128.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/b1a06d7c319231fb7703209e8ea8b200.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/6f13fb677edc23377f8a50da1f87398f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/cbfd7aa7c45c568e6be8339b5ae158a8.jpg)
Post by: Harrison on January 04, 2018, 09:02:41 PM
Still can’t believe I thought committing to that climb was a good idea.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180105/aa55e4791bcaaeb8c307fbac3865d8c7.jpg)
Post by: Nick on January 04, 2018, 10:44:28 PM
Post by: mr.mindless on January 05, 2018, 07:33:30 AM
Pipe/tube with a couple bearings, full of grease in vain attempt to not have it seize up?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Harrison on January 18, 2019, 07:05:57 PM
Not ready to build a buggy yet
More patching to come!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190119/85edf0e7b165dcc3dca07e96ec52f141.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190119/911bd001aa10d3ab1444123e63d1c868.jpg)
Edit: started this thread 6 years ago... dang.
Post by: TrailTamer on January 18, 2019, 07:27:54 PM
I kinda of made a mistake with my black XJ. Frame looked solid by just looking at it. In the end I probably easily replaced/plated at least 50% of frame.
Use this and give good whack in places and see where else are about to rot through and decide whether to patch or run as is?
(https://surewerx.com/brands/view/images/products/740901_hr.jpg)
Post by: Harrison on January 18, 2019, 07:41:14 PM
It’s getting some 1/8-3/16 patched over it. I’m not interested in looking for more work so that’s all I’m doing till the next spot pops up. This thing has taken so much abuse for years that I’m getting to the point where if it hasn’t been an issue yet... not sure I care. I don’t actually thing I could wheel this thing harder than I do. Needs to give me a couple-three more years of fun.
Post by: Callelle on January 19, 2019, 05:16:46 AM