M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: rejeep on July 03, 2012, 01:59:05 PM
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Ever since I bought the Series truck my wife has been giving me a hard time that I don’t have a snorkel on it.
Having seen several fine examples of Rovers in Nantucket every summer she always points out that a snorkel is the one thing my Rover does not have..
Issue is to do the raised air intake properly and not be a cob job of backyard engineering you need 1 very rare part..
I didn’t want something that looked like this..
(https://encrypted-tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRLfDjd8ce7R9k794iLRkT4ddPZH1TUdoYfZo1eREN9eeaaJppK)
Or this…
(https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRJhl4dWrY30y4lEMMH3kkruJzpE8_TV-BdVMpKYjnsUd91zVffcg)
More like this….
(https://encrypted-tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTFq0A2F7SinpBm3dpPACqTsOV2mUpSzIXVBBSzLfLLmvNemyGU)
And it became mine yesterday for a small mortgage payment….
I dont know, for some reason originality points seem to get me with this truck…
Collecting the rest of the bits as we speak..
Maybe if it ever cools down a bit I might feel like driving it…
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Is that a shop vac :D
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thats what I always thought it looked like..
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Finally got all the parts to the raised air intake together in one place at one time..
Had to order the pipe and fittings from overseas..
Busted open the box and did a little math to convert the MM to Inches and started drilling... of course measuring twice...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120831-00265.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120831-00266.jpg)
Only problem was... the math I did was correct, the conversion factor I used was wrong... shouldn’t have mattered all that much, but the bend in the snorkel pipe hit the windshield hinge at just the right angle... Had to open the hole a bit..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120904-00274.jpg)
now I was left with this...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120904-00275.jpg)
the body man in me came out for a short time... since its a RHD and finding a wing here would be close to impossible I decided to act in good old land rover fashion and cob it together using aluminum and rivets...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120905-00276.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120905-00277.jpg)
Little flexible filler, sanding, primer and paint...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120906-00278.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120906-00279.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120906-00280.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120906-00282.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120906-00283.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120906-00284.jpg)
Finally good to go... just need to trim down the intake tube a bit and hook it up.. waiting on some European sealant to come in for the final assembly... there was no direct cross to what they suggest to use.. prob not EPA or environmentally friendly and might cause headache or nausea when I use it... :)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120907-00286.jpg)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Raised%20Air%20Intake/IMG-20120907-00288.jpg)
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Got a little rustolium starting in that door hinge screw
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not just there... wherever there are leaks and water pools
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:o
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:o
you didn’t notice anything when you were working on it? maybe it’s just there and I’m oversensitive because I see it every time I get in or out..
easy fix.. just always want to do other things first..
it’s part of the design though…
water leaks in to rinse the oil that leaks out…
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no my :o was at the hole saw adventure haha
i was super panic about working on this thing and didnt even let anyone in the shop while it was here lol
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ohh I was so pissed at myself.... really got depressed over it...
I’m looking for another wing... still have lots of paint left over and they come off as easy as a jeep fender.. plus there is nothing bolted to it...
Problem is on the RHD the heater hole is on the left side…
On a LHD the heater hole is on the right side.. I have to find a RHD wing… (kinda hard over here)
but it’s ok for now... looks perfect from 7-10 feet, the molding helps break it up..
just makes me remember its only a machine, made of metal, and nothing is irreversible...
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this beast is out on the road for the year....
had a bit of a vibration when I took the truck out for the first time...
now I’m at the point where I want to figure this out for good and I have a feeling its related to something I thought was normal..
driving on the hwy I noticed a vibration when I take my foot off the gas. It goes away the second I get back on it. It’s not noticeable at lower speeds, just hwy.
another vibration occurs when I shift into 3rd (city driving) at a lower RPM and goes away by the time I’m ready to shift to 4th..
any thoughts on where to start?
I am going to check that everything is tight when I get home tonight for starters... but after that is it just typical Ujoint, DS, etc.?
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the ubolts / nuts / whatever is there on the rear shaft rear joint were loose last i worked on it. i tightened them. might deserve some thread lock if they are loose again.
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was the rear DS right?
I think im going to pull the front for a rebuild and I have a spare rear one thats balanced...
Nylock nuts too...
I also thing the rear pinion is leaking again... thats after I put a new flang in last year...
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might just pull the shaft tonight.. worn splines are possible..
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ya rear pinion yoke things were loose, i cant remember if it was a flange, straps, or ubolts.
Nylocks are junk with anything near heat, or really anywhere haha- get top locks win!
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flange bolts were finger tight again...
hit them with the gun and also the Tcase flange bolts....
Left the original DS in.. test drive tomorrow
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Rover might need some M4 love after bog dogs..
welding and fabrication work... parts needed are either NLA or never existed :)
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Needing parts that never existed? I like it.
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little update...
vibe issue was easy... couple of loose DS flange bolts...
been driving this truck daily for the better part of a month..
have a few upgrades/projects lined up.
1. disk brake swap
2 new gas tank
3. rear crossmember reinforcement / 2" receiver hitch
4. cup holder (tired if spilling coffee)
5. child seat safety latches (yeah you read right)
6. some touch up interior paint
7. jack, lug wrench, starting handle mount
stay tuned.. parts arriving
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Exciting stuff. Especially #1 and #4!
protip:
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Is that a sweet custom monster jam edition cup holder? Where do I get one?
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Not only full custom, but full race!
It's the Frumusa signature edition. Very limited run, they're tough to get. Also useful if a radiator hose or belt fails.
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you know thats what all he rover guys told me to do...
I said its too booty fab and I want something a bit more worthy of a restored clasic 4x4...
I have some ideas.. ;D
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last morning spilling shit...
I know where the cup holer is going.. ;D
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the 4300 launched matts ice tea yesterday lol
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Now you see how important a cup holder is
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it launched a big gulp out of the cup holder lol
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5 minutes after that happened is when I ripped the factory cup holder out of the 97.
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if I get you some Newcastle to go along with this.. you thing M4 is ready to handle some british invasion..?
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what is on the list this time around?
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drive shaft(s) swap
child seat latch
disk brake swap... (easier than a D30)
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new hub bearings are already installed... so no press work.. just bolt on
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http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LR.images/DiscBrakeMan.pdf
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dropping this pig off today at some point....
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cool, may test out the door in the new trailer for storage- there will be a jeep on the lift tonight.
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Front shaft installed
Rear shaft 2" too long, let me know what you want to do about that
Front end torn down, one side 75% assembled with new parts.
Very neat how these things are built. Pass front was miles from failure, brake line bracket smashed and weeping from a crimped hardline.
Do I just fill these knuckles with gear oil?
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yeah... I can scan some pages form the factory service manual today in the office...
I was getting a low pedal since the day I bought it... I never went through the brakes.. they were always "good enough"
now I guess I know why..
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Here is a good article on what grease to us in closed knuckle Jeeps, may correlate to LR as well.
http://www.4wdmechanix.com/Jeep-4WD-Closed-Knuckle-Axle-Lubricants.html
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Semi Fluid Grease
A self-levelling grease, ideal for certain veteran transmissions and Burman motorcycle
gearboxes as well as Land Rover swivel hubs.
500 ml LUB027 $15.75
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Comming of the lift tonight with fancy grease or not haha
what came out seemed just like gear out out of a diff.
So far everything has come out with not too much fuss. was really scared of the top 4 trunion bolts they really took a close to snaping grunt to get them out. gont PB and heat the other side just for good measure.
The brake lines on this thing are neat- external flare ends, SAE
dont under stand what tool could possibly help get the first axle shaft retaining nut off, but i managed lol.
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its a special tool...
I might have one... I think its just a 52mm socket?
EP90 in everything on this truck except the engine..... (90wt gear oil GL4)
ill drop some off...
are the trunion bolts special?
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http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/606435.cfm
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ohh and the rear shaft...
old one back in.. dont know what im going to do there... I think some good locking bolts for now and I should be good.. U joints seemed ok when i pulled it..
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drop the new one at fleet pride, 75$ it will be shortened.
U joints in old shaft are all loose, but not hosed
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or, are ujoints hard to get?
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hmm looks not to be- just send two ujoints over to south ill rebuild the old shaft if it needs it
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I think I can cross them.. I should have in stock..
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ill head down there later with gear oil and 2 sets of joints... it will be one or the other...
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cool, this afternoon or after5?
ill be there after 5
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yeah ill prob be there @ 5...
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correct calipers down at south..
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cool, are they open till 5 or 5:30 again?
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going to try and swing by before lunch and gran this guy...
did you give it a shakedown run?
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rover grabbed...
drove nice on hwy..
brakes need a full bleed...
you didnt need the front hoses?
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the kit came with brake lines.
one snapped like a twig when i put the adapter in.
i was happy there was a second set in the box.
was raining i did not test drive.
After all the issues and frustrations i had, i did not even dare look at what was in the rear.
calipers had to be ground on both sides for wheel clearance
your driver knuckle seal or whatever needs to be changed soon.
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its probably in 4x4 also, was pulled in and out with front shaft only- check that!
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The swivel housing seal??? Around the chrome ball
Figured I'd be in for that soon.
I'm going to do the rear brakes next week and then flush the system with dot5
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isn't it DOT5 that isn't compatible with DOT4 and older? I'd stay the hell away and leave oldstuff-compatible fluid in there. That's like running ethanol fuel by choice in something with old seals.
which reminds me, I need to put new seals on the Deere carb again,
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not Dot 5 is low moisture... for stuff that isn’t driven all the time.. silicone...
as long as all the dot 3 is out its no issue..
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no more tire rub at full lock ;D
guess that fraction of an inch wider made a difference
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Getting the truck ready for fall...
did some work on the Rover this weekend...
got some parts back from the galvanizer...
New Gas tank to try and rid the odor in the garage... new gas cap on order..
rear ladder independent from roof rack and 2" receiver hitch.. (gas tank had to be dropped)
its nice to have the ladder on the truck.. I can get up there now and try and see where the roof leaks ïŠ
Frame looks good.. might need a new rear cross member and some outriggers, but I have a few years before that needs to be addressed..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Galvy%20Acc/IMG_00000449_zps5141c2c7.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Galvy%20Acc/IMG_00000449_zps5141c2c7.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Galvy%20Acc/IMG_00000448_zpse091be11.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Galvy%20Acc/IMG_00000448_zpse091be11.jpg.html) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Galvy%20Acc/IMG_00000447_zpsd24a766e.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Galvy%20Acc/IMG_00000447_zpsd24a766e.jpg.html)
also am working on some backup/work lights for the rear.. should be buttoned up with that by tomorrow..
as open and easy as this truck is to work on hiding a 12 gauge wire front to back is proving time consuming.. 1 nap time wasn’t enough to get’er done.
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1 nap time wasn’t enough to get’er done.
hahahaha this is what free time boils down too
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package from UK arrived today... :)
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crumpets?
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were a couple of rovers at RC this weekend
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British wirings sucks my ass…
All new LED lamps and headlights and I go to pull the truck back in the garage and wham.. no start…
Didn’t even touch a damn thing…
Have fuel.. so it’s going to be a fun couple of nights to figure this one out…
on a side note the lights are awesome.... might actually be able to see driving at night now..
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love old ingnitions....
coil ok,
weak spark
test points..
New condenser....
vroom vroom on first crank...
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I love this truck....
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drove out to Egypt (Perinton) last night for diner with 8 adults in this truck.. about 1600 lbs.. (1700lbs when we left)
little more sluggish than im use to, but rode like a caddy...
these trucks are really 1 ton rated... 65 and ears bleeding on the hwy, but a fun time..
New LED's actually make it able to see at night...
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1974 limo, red!
Tapatalking in traffic
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my first thought... "How did you convince 7 other adults to ride in that with you?" if you said "After the club meeting I took 7 guys for a ride" then I would understand ...
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Ditto :)
Tapatalking in traffic
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wasnt even my idea...
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Daily driven the last 3 days...
I love this truck and everything right and wrong with it..
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I know this isn't an older car crowd...
but the Rover left me stranded this afternoon and ive thought about ever possible situation with no real obvious solution.
been driving the rover exclusively for over 2 weeks now and in 4 years of ownership its the first time I got stranded...
got to work ok this AM.. mixed city and hwy travel..
got in this afternoon to head home and i couldn't keep it running..
choke in, warmed up, nothing..
I would get a few moments of decent acceleration followed by stumble and fall..
made it back to the parking lot and stuffed the rover in the warehouse for the overnight.
New fuel pump, rebult carb, and new points and condenser last year following a no-start situation..
motor would not idle, but would rev healthily with no load..
under load i looked like a 16 yr old learning how to drive manual, bucking all over the place..
thoughts, comments, criticisms?
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How's the air filter & intake? Vacuum leaks?
Assuming it's OK free revving, but not under load, spark advance is my first thought. If it's vacuum advance I'd be looking at the vacuum system, and maybe plugging it all except advance with a fresh hose as a test. If it's mechanical I'd be asking people how the hell to test that since I don't know myself :)
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To happen suddenly like that, I'd not think air filter or intake. Maybe a vacuum hose came free or cracked. Did you fuel up just before getting to work? Got a bad dose?
I'd look thoroughly at ignition for an onset like that.
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I've often found that when things happen suddenly it's a failure..
I'm leaning toward points...
Didn't have time to deal with it today even thought its prob an easy fix.
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welcome to the last 2 years of my life!
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yeah but i have no electronics to mess with..
Michael plays in the Rover all the time.. turns the key on and leaves it...
that KILLS points..
might install the solid state distrib I have finally.. still in the back of the warehouse... havent touched it since
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died on me this weekend... didn’t have any patience to deal with it, left it at hardware store parking lot, took MJ home... (Scotty’s 1 block away)
starting from scratch to tune this motor…
need to deal with valves, plugs and ignition.. something isn’t jiving..
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Do you check condition I the points after the last episode?
Tapatalking in traffic
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was getting good connectivity with test light.. opening and closing well..
swapped in a eBay UK electronic distributor and coil I had on the shelf... fired right up and purred..
was working on setting timing when distributor clamp broke... drove to hardware store to buy new M6 bolt, shut it down and never started again..
tried firing with old points distributor and sometimes it’s easier to start from square 1…
Going to adjust the valves
TDC
New plugs
Ordered a new Petronix unit / flame thrower coil
Then we will see what happens…
I never upgraded the ignition with the new “performance†motor and carb…
Points just seemed to work, but longevity is always an issue and not every pats store has them anymore..
Plus the quality of replacement condensers are not like the old ones.. I carry a spare in the truck… might be better off going electronic with points and condenser in the tool bag..
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My only points ignition expirience is a 1cyl 14hp Kohler on my tractor - but this thing is a tractor so my expirience may apply anyway.
I've had test light level of continuity through points without a clean enough contact for good spark. Popped the cover off, saw a lot of transfer. Filed both sides for fresh contact and it's been running like a top for 4 years now.
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yeah that’s common practice.. and works like a charm with OE points..
I just have a feeling the shit being made now is disposable.. might be able to do that to get home in a pinch, but the quality of the points and condensers have declined.. nobody uses them except for enthusiasts..
I’m certain I could have gotten it started with enough time... but I was smoking short ribs and chicken yesterday... I had my priorities...
going through the engine and tuning isn’t a bad idea.. haven’t really done anything since I installed the motor almost 2 years ago...
these 1950's lumps will run with no compression, a soup can as a carb and on 1 cylinder... but they do take some mechanical know how to tune properly...
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To second mikes statement on points. Filed points on the motorcycle more than once. But great peace of mind when switching to magnetic timing and never having to think about it again.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
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got the truck home, installed new Petronix and coil...
truck wouldn't start..
like not even a burp..
timed, tuned and re installed points.. thing fired right up
adjusted carb linkage, truck now wants to jump into the next gear after shifting..
runs like a rapped ape leaking 15w30 from the rear main seal that wont quit...
probably should get on that sometime this century..
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stuff some hay in it
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Lol
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if I had African bush grass available that's in the field manual for a temporary fix..
cat tails soaked in elephant tallow also has sealing capability..
slim pickings in brighton..
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https://www.senecaparkzoo.org/directory.aspx?category=Mammal&aid=4
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haha
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D&C article tomorrow:
Man caught scaling zoo walls to harvest Elephant poop for Land Rover repair..
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authorities say he referred to himself as a "bush mechanic"
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I'm pissing my self the comedy is so good.
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"The bush mechanic promotes competent behaviour and has a strong emphasis on practical knowledge and wisdom instead of technical skills."
While the whole definition doesn't 100% apply I've never been more acuraltly described.....
I am a bush mechanic.. :o
Ps.. Now fuel gauge is broken...
Driving home today in traffic on 590 south I ran out of gas on the uphill portion of the can of worms exit onto 490 east... Made to home on fumes... Bucking and coasting...
M4 solution, LS and tons....
Bush mechanic solution, carry spare points and start clocking mileage
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Bush mechanic solution #2: fill up tank every day and clock miles on trips over 100mi.
But I'm lazy that way.
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BM option easier and more traditional with Rover!
No Roto paks or at least Jerry cans on that beast?
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Jerry can rack justification!
Tapatalking in traffic
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jerry cans are to extend range not compensate for stupidity...
like everything else on this truck I'm sure its a bad ground..
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600 Miles this past month on the Rover..
I've been really putting some miles on this guy...
Have 2 ever pressing leaks that need to be addressed..
- Rear main Seal has been plaguing me for 2 years..
still have good oil pressure and I'm watching the level.. job requires pulling the motor
- Pinion seal is leaking in the rear (Dana 60)
already tried a new yoke and seal a couple years ago.
I have a feeling I either have an unbalanced rear driveshaft and or I need to think about rebuilding the rear end this winter.
watching it and topping fluid off
Have to do another quick tune this weekend..
-adjust valves
-new plugs
-timing
-carb
Koeing winch on way down to SVE for rebuild
Fixed all bad grounds with massive ground straps
New grill installed to get rid of the crappy plastic unit.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/IMG_20141002_092711_zps5681828c.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/IMG_20141002_092711_zps5681828c.jpg.html)
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this thing is so damn cool.
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for our other British sufferer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yv6d0E1p2_k
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for our other British sufferer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yv6d0E1p2_k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yv6d0E1p2_k)
John Twist (University Motors LTD in Detroit) explained that for the BMC 4s as well. I'm still trying to decide how deep I want to go. Based on spark plug and the "ear diagnostics" I think I do need to adjust the valves. Just not sure I trust myself enough. Not like I can really hurt anything though...
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dicked around long enough...
LR going in for service this week... major service..
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neglected for PM, not use..
They just plod along.
Its rust inhibitor system is working a bit too well right now. While I'm in there some "tiding" also needs to be done. Really hope to get this in and out in short order..
Drained the coolant at a gas station last night and dragged it home via tow rope..
Backed into garage and:
1. removed tire
2. removed hood
3. removed floor matt (all 50 lbs of it)
Would like to get engine out and on stand by Sunday...
using my usual 45 min at a time technique.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141112_195839_zps615a5b83.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141112_195839_zps615a5b83.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141112_211039_zps007bfa48.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141112_211039_zps007bfa48.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141112_211057_zpsfbb3c61b.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141112_211057_zpsfbb3c61b.jpg.html)
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Wow.. Nice. Never seen this one
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waiting for my 3 yr olds friend to actually yank the motor..
had it free yesterday afternoon..
to do's are adding up as I look at the truck more and more ::)
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They always do.
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I also noticed there was no good step by step write-up on doing a 2.25 RMS..
I think I might compile all this in some good order once its done for a resource.
Started Saturday when the kids went down for a nap..
able to finish it all up when my oldest woke up and he helped operate the chain fall for me..
front floor and trans tunnel removed..
Hello flywheel housing bolts.. no wobble sockets or greasy forearms :)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141115_135958_zps52e84cc1.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141115_135958_zps52e84cc1.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141115_140720_zps2f7ac169.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141115_140720_zps2f7ac169.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141115_140727_zpsae783742.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141115_140727_zpsae783742.jpg.html)
Engine disconnected and chained..
speedo cable needs to be replaced, was a bit damaged from exhaust
have a nice little setup here, and the heater keeping up well.
we have lift off and separation..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_135015_zps089aa8b7.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_135015_zps089aa8b7.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_135457_zps4b51c4c1.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_135457_zps4b51c4c1.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141115_154354_zps0b802503.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141115_154354_zps0b802503.jpg.html)
Clutch cover and disk removed, wasn't as oil saturated as I assumed...
still plan on replacing with a new unit.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_144453_zps7b87ad07.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_144453_zps7b87ad07.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_144938_zps0372a900.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_144938_zps0372a900.jpg.html)
Flywheel housing removed.
Didn't even have to yank the starter.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_150004_zps532eb8ab.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_150004_zps532eb8ab.jpg.html)
Here is the sucker... looks so innocent sitting there...
upper seal was dry, lower was soaked.. I also noticed that there was no flywheel housing oil seal (O ring)
Unsure if I forgot to install or what...
seal retainer is located behind the flywheel flange..
some bolts pulled through the notch in the crank and the seal retainer upper half is removed.
the lower half is removed with the rear bearing cap..
Need to get the motor on a stand and the oil pan off before I go any further..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_193801_zpse4618194.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_193801_zpse4618194.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_193808_zpsbb0d5a98.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_193808_zpsbb0d5a98.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_193958_zps9ed63fa6.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_193958_zps9ed63fa6.jpg.html)
My other set of hands was really excited when we pulled the motor..
had to take the front wheels off to gain a little more clearance from the body...
opened up the wheel wheels and engine compartment a little for some other misc. maintenance I plan on doing..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_143540_edit_zps56f6a709.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141116_143540_edit_zps56f6a709.jpg.html)
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too cute!
everything is SO much easier when the floor comes out - aside from that (and in the dumpbus post-conversion, not even aside) it reminds me so much of a mini Cummins with the round pattern, removable flywheel, etc.
That open shifter linkage sure is something else. I'm surprised that isn't at least booted to keep dirt and gravel from jamming things up.
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it is a diesel... just in petrol form... ;D
shifter linkage is so tucked up there... exposed for ease of service and you can shift with a stick if needed.
Whenever I run into an issue I just ask myself how would I do it with no tools and that usually solves the problem.
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I'm a big fan of the rover
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had to make some adapters for the engine stand..
goofy narrow block bolts made it impossible to get on stand without touching the crank...
some black pipe and a cut off wheel yielded these bad boys...
plenty of room to spin the crank
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141117_195409_zps61661e93.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141117_195409_zps61661e93.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141117_195421_zps12af1d8d.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141117_195421_zps12af1d8d.jpg.html)
Engine flopped over, oil pan removed..
Pan gasket used is much thicker than the cheap paper one I have as a replacement..
No signs of sealant being used..
Rear bearings cap came right off.. again, a slight difference in gasket material.. the T seals are neoprene, not the cork I have as "OE"
Crank looks good, no marks or scoring.. cleaning up surfaces and parts tonight..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141117_203616_zps1a3b27fa.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141117_203616_zps1a3b27fa.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141117_203624_zps47ecadcd.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141117_203624_zps47ecadcd.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141117_203823_zps4fc531ca.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141117_203823_zps4fc531ca.jpg.html)
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turning into a project..
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Isn't that always the case?
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Bulkhead needed some attention..
600 grit and some brake clean, bending some metal back and new lock nuts to be installed.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141123_143041_zpsdcee00e5.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141123_143041_zpsdcee00e5.jpg.html)
Manifolds off the truck.
Figured it was out already so I would do some clean up...
Exhaust off to Jet Hot for coating, have new intake that's getting several layers of engine clear.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141124_210056_zpsb81e57de.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141124_210056_zpsb81e57de.jpg.html)
Got a little zealous with some left over Dynamat. Purposely didn't not do it on the inside of the truck since I have an acoustic matt. Some interweb grumblings about using asphalt paper in the engine compartment.. Have some 2000 deg heat shielding I will end up putting on the exhaust side of the motor. I don't think its going to be too much of an issue..
Passenger and Driver side foot boxes will be completely covered, bulkhead / firewall done.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141124_230616_zps2cbe44fe.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141124_230616_zps2cbe44fe.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141124_230649_zpsa0a940b9.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141124_230649_zpsa0a940b9.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141124_230714_zps62951b91.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141124_230714_zps62951b91.jpg.html)
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Thing ought to be late model quiet!
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Finally did it.. got enough time to take my time and follow the instructions to the letter....
Engine stripped and bearing cap removed.
Engine turned on its side, I found this was the most ergonomic position to get the garter spring wrapped around the crankshaft.
I paid particular attention to the "don't stretch spring" and managed after a few tried to get it hooked properly around the crank.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_153111_zps33cc03af.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_153111_zps33cc03af.jpg.html)
Using Silicone grease (Dielectric) I moved the garter spring against the oil slinger and fitting the new seal, using plenty of grease. Angle from the top seeing the position of spring and seal.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_153750_zpscc823d47.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_153750_zpscc823d47.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_153756_zps912b6bcc.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_153756_zps912b6bcc.jpg.html)
Using some optical screw drivers and a chopstick garter spring was slipped into place, again plenty of grease, being careful not to stretch it beyond necessary.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_154145_zps251890e7.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_154145_zps251890e7.jpg.html)
Time for seal retainer and Hylomar.
cleaned up the retainer halves using no solvents as described in the green bible..
New seal pushed up against the oil slinger in position for seal retainers.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_154805_zps4dcbeddd.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_154805_zps4dcbeddd.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_134455_zps161e0abd.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_134455_zps161e0abd.jpg.html)
Hylomar applied and upper seal retainer half installed on engine block..
could not find any torque value for seal retainer halves, left finger tight for the moment, just enough thread engagement for bolt heads to clear crank flange.
side note: split in seal was oriented toward the top of the motor. There is a cast rib on the block that I used as a visual reference to ensure it did not move.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_134653_zpsba1edbe3.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_134653_zpsba1edbe3.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_141104_zpsb6448a00.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_141104_zpsb6448a00.jpg.html)
Despite what I was told about the new neoprene T seals vs. the cork I decided to go with cork..
The neoprene ones were a super tight fit, even with the grease and I ended up nicking the sides of the seal.
they just didn't install well in the bearing cap. The rubberized cork seals went in with little effort, all lubed up and trimmed as per manual instructions. Located the lower seal retainer on the bearing block and finger tight on all the mounting bolts.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_142025_zps76e9a6e4.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_142025_zps76e9a6e4.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_142437_zpse2d03391.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_142437_zpse2d03391.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_142725_zps33afc21e.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_142725_zps33afc21e.jpg.html)
Smike provided a scrap sheet of HDPE plastic to make some guides as per SafeAirOnes installation method. (Rover guy)
cut and drilled, smoothed and beveled the edges to allow the bearing cap to slide into the block without messing up the T seals. Seal retainer half was left loose as well to allow for proper compression of the seal in the retainer..
used a feeler gauge to ensure there was a .030" gap between cap and block prior to torqueing bolts.
seal retainer bolts tightened to "good enough" and exposed T seal material also trimmed to .030 in. "proud"
all done for now unless somebody tells me I did something horribly wrong and I should give it another go..
moving on to slapping the rest of the engine back together and doing some other things here and there.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_151317_zps8f2b1f41.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_151317_zps8f2b1f41.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_151713_zps1dc81a8d.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141129_151713_zps1dc81a8d.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_143250_zps293d5d54.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_143250_zps293d5d54.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_143257_zps80da4941.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_143257_zps80da4941.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_144732_zpse4c85fac.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_144732_zpse4c85fac.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_192844_zps583c1838.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141130_192844_zps583c1838.jpg.html)
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what a pain lol
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Wild. Prescision bushmechanicary!
Tapatalking in traffic
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its a pain in the dick....
trucks deff designed for dirt cheap labor costs...
when your paying your mechanic in ivory or blood diamonds I guess it doesn't matter how long its takes or how many times you need to do it..
but its amazing.. EVERYTHING is rebuildable or serviceable to some extent..
snapped a distributor cap clip...
looked closely at it after cursing and noticed the clips are help in place by screws...
went to the parts bin, old distrib, same clip, new screw, problem solved.
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What engine is in this 6-8? Na?
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trucks runs either a petrol or diesel in stock form..
2.25 L 73 hp (54 kW) I4 (Petrol)
2.25 L 62 hp (46 kW) I4 (Diesel)
obviously there are swaps and later engines but most series trucks are these guys...
My truck is running a hot rod tractor engine..
remember they are F heads..
its a Turner HP motor..
later 2.5 cam, boosted compression from 7:1 to 9:1 with extensive head work.
Running a Rochester Carb vs the stock Zenith.. about 40 more CFM..
it slugs about 100 HP.. can do 70, but its happy at 60-65 in overdrive
Just for comparison..
Jeep F-Head was 75 hp (56 kW; 76 PS) at 4000 rpm and 114 lb·ft (155 N·m) of torque at 2000 rpm with a 7.5:1 compression ratio.
that's a peak number.. Jeep dropped the compression on later F heads
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Engine back in.. heavy lifting is over..
New flywheel and Clutch components, new blasted and cleared flywheel housing, Exhaust manifold back from JET HOT.
Amazing how difficult the flywheel cover O ring was to seat and install without squishing.
Unsure if I am going to really do EVERYTHING I was planning on doing.. its getting snowy and salty up here, need to get it into hibernation.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141213_144149_zpsd302a947.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141213_144149_zpsd302a947.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141213_155848_zps37407246.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141213_155848_zps37407246.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141213_163250_zps8c96f08e.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141213_163250_zps8c96f08e.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141214_152103_zpscddebc0e.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141214_152103_zpscddebc0e.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141214_155205_zps812f5c0a.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141214_155205_zps812f5c0a.jpg.html)
The long and short list as of now:
Engine:
Install Manifolds
connect exhaust
Carb/linkage/fuel lines
Coolant hoses
New Radiator or repair
Speedo cable @ Tcase
Oil pressure line / Oil filter / Oil
Clutch line (one continuous not 3 piece)
Adjust valves / Plugs / Wires
Rocker cover / Breather / oil cap
some new wiring / starter solenoid
Drivetrain:
fluid service
Dynamat transmission tunnel
Rear Axle:
Brakes
Pinion seal
Misc:
Blower motor seal
Suspension / Steering: Spring 2015
measure and weigh for new springs, order before 12/31 (Alcan)
Shocks? (OME)
rebuild steering
Winch:
Koning rebuild
Driveshaft
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Radiator being repaired, yay
Snobby British parts, shipped from Arab lands, installed by a minority Caucasian to travel the urban ghetto of rochester.
Worldly vehicle indeed.
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haha
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Called Alcan today....
getting some data for new front springs...
tempting me to build and design some new springs with orbit eyes for the YJ ::)
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got a good amount of tasks accomplished during nap time... in good position to settle this us after bedtime...
Will need to be done after engine associated jobs are complete..
Install Manifolds
connect exhaust
Carb / linkage / fuel lines
Coolant hoses
New Radiator or repair
Speedo cable @ Tcase
Oil pressure line / Oil filter / Oil
Clutch line (one continuous not 3 piece)
Adjust valves / Plugs / Wires
Rocker cover / Breather / oil cap
some new wiring / starter solenoid
Drivetrain:
fluid service
Dynamat transmission tunnel
Rear Axle:
Brakes
Pinion seal
Misc:
Blower motor seal
Suspension / Steering: Spring 2015
measure and weigh for new springs, order before 12/31 (Alcan)
Shocks? (OME)
rebuild steering
Winch:
Koning rebuild
Driveshaft
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Right before Christmas in true British manor I stayed the course, and while caring for an infant and maintaining a home, I managed to get the Rover back running. Didn't touch or attempt everything that needs to be done, just wanted to get the beast fired up so I can put some miles on the new seals, clutch and adjust valves before I put away for winter. Motor fired right up once I got the wiring figured out..
was in such a rush to pull solenoid I didn't label wires and had to figure out how the Hi Torque starter was wired. I think I am going to swap some wires around and change how it gets power.. I currently have the trigger wire going to the solenoid on the starter.. I think I like the idea of the bypass wire and keeping the harness stock.. Would also serve are a backup if the factory Lucas solenoid ever fails.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/Starter20Wiring_FINAL_zps44ac5397.png) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/Starter20Wiring_FINAL_zps44ac5397.png.html)
While examining the wiring the 40 year old charging system wires are beginning to fray and crack.. unsure if the >40 amps are actually getting to the truck.. I purchased a couple years ago a Delco SI conversion bracket from Pangolin 4x4.. I think its time to upgrade.. Dropping the brackets off to get dipped and ordered a new Alt from Delco..
will need to run some new wires.. much needed upgrade..
(http://u.jimdo.com/www21/o/s3828cde3f4eb4d5a/img/i053eb6b8f1c31cae/1389137285/orig/image.png)
Got the truck up and running, ran some errands and even drove it for a bit…
Considering the valves had not been adjusted it fired up on the first crank with no issue…
Once I got home I went to start the truck again and there was nothing but smoke wafting from the dash…
Started on dash removal to investigate the cause…… and this is what happened.. Needless to say I have another project to finish up before putting miles on…
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141227_114814_zps8432d43e.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141227_114814_zps8432d43e.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141227_143809_zpsf1a98bb4.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141227_143809_zpsf1a98bb4.jpg.html)
Why stop there right? If I’m going to take a bite out of something might as well be a big bite…
Rear axle torn down:
Pinion seal
Brakes
Possible hub seal
Diff cover referb.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141228_134736_zps77466b0e.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141228_134736_zps77466b0e.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141228_152615_zps32237ae4.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141228_152615_zps32237ae4.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141228_152623_zps87f689e0.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141228_152623_zps87f689e0.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141228_153437_zpsc5befcfa.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20141228_153437_zpsc5befcfa.jpg.html)
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I *hate* it when the magic smoke comes out. Source? Hopefully something easy to find and solve
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Sorting out the wiring may not be that bad.. waiting for the hard to source dash cowl will be the big problem.. mine is serviceable, but broke.
starter switch seems to be the issue.. when I rewired the ignition I am now sending full battery current through the ignition switch. ( the way oe had it)
Some melted spade connectors and corroded terminals are prob the cause.. it's a 40 year old rats nest back there.. going to clean it up and see if it holds.
Axle work is just time consuming.. parts are available and I don't think I'm touching the bearings..
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I'd like to shamelessly steal the DC power on banana plug idea. Make so much more sense than the cig lighter BS.
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they are avail afermarket
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I have a dozen red/black both sexes sitting on my desk. Dense me... never even considered it until I noticed them on your dash. I seriously need to invest in a larger coffee pot.
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Part arrival.
Chances of weekend completion... slim
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Rear end back together.... kinda-sorta..
Centric brake shoes only had adjusting rivets on 2 of the 4 shoes...
so one side is complete.. might try and throw some long pop rivets in there before I tear into the axle, again...
Hubs refreshed, packed, sealed and installed..
New brake lines are in order from flex hose to wheel cylinders. the combination of home market lines, NAS hydraulic parts and aftermarket fittings will be interesting...
Diff cover blasted and working on a couple layers of paint before install.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150103_135304_zpsbc86c6c9.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150103_135304_zpsbc86c6c9.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150103_150231_zps9c1bc2aa.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150103_150231_zps9c1bc2aa.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150103_143818_zpsa8f626bc.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150103_143818_zpsa8f626bc.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150104_204526_zpsfabd8e8d.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150104_204526_zpsfabd8e8d.jpg.html)
Pinion seal as always presented its own level of problems...
no real torque setting for pinion nut, crush sleeve is already crushed, no markings on nut or pinion since I have only done this a dozen times... whirled it on tight enough, spins free with no play...
I tried consulting the official Land Rover Field Manual for Africa incase there was some reference to some obscure unit of measure.... no luck...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150104_204535_zps46f744ff.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150104_204535_zps46f744ff.jpg.html)
It wouldn't be a project unless I was waiting on more parts....
Dash and electrical not even addressed this weekend....
:o
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spins free sounds a little loose. there should be a sneeze of drag.
you can add shims to the crush sleeve once or twice to reuse them.
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ya, and it can be done by pulling the yoke, pinion seal, and outer pinion bearing only.
really though, to get a good feel for pinion preload, the carrier should be pulled also.
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Finally some traction on this:
-Rear end all buttoned up, minus oil and a bleed
-LHD shifter pulled, RHD rebuilt using all NOS parts and a freshly powder coated original cane..
-Buttoned up floor and installing acoustic matting tonight after it warms up a bit.
-dash still apart.. crappy aftermarket part broke.. new ignition switch ordered via Land Rover Dealer..
Got to get this thing out of garage already. Killing my mojo for CJ6..
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Dash all buttoned up...
-Starter circuit wired to bypass the original solenoid, perfect...
new OE Land Rover switch installed and so far functioning...
-New ATC blade fuse used for blower motor switch and a few others located behind dash panel.
-New metal cowl installed in lieu of 70's era plastic.. unbelievable fit and function.. first time I wasn't scared reattaching the dash. (Rivnuts in a thin plastic shell)
-acoustic mat reinstalled after bumping garage temp up top 65 deg.. Cold rubber just doesn't like to move.
-some final dotting I's and crossing T's tonight before maiden voyage in the white stuff...
Truck starts perfectly.. still need to fill rear end and have appointment tomorrow with a customer for full brake system bleed. Swapping over to DOT5 and need to flush the MC and front calipers.
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its seen salt.... ;D
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Smike.. up for a little lathe work?
Snapped the stud on my tire carrier... just need it machined/drilled out so I can tap it
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/IMG_20150212_114237_zps7i27bpdg.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/IMG_20150212_114237_zps7i27bpdg.jpg.html)
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sure send it over
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on way to south now...
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Well the truck saw salt for the first time this week...
I figured by the time Im ready to hand this down, boys will be old enough to assist in the rebuild/refurb :)
proper bleed on the brake system and this thing stops on a dime!
No more pulling to one side on heavy braking.. (I suspected an internal wheel cyl leak)
DOT5 now in Clutch and Brakes, its like the hydraulics took some viagra.
Putting this thing to bed this weekend.
woke up too early this morning...
5:00am Coffee
5:30-6:30am Valves adjusted and rocker cover resealed...
To do:
- Fasten heat shield
- adjust timing and Carb
- Rear tire carrier fix (details on the break and fix to follow.. thanks Smike)
- New hood bushings
- assuming new engine harness arrives, (USPS) Delco SI alternator conversion.
Koning Winch and Alcan springs will have to wait for part arrival and more time!
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ill head over and grab it in a bit.
what needs to be done? some goofy thread you need there or just a 1/2" stud?
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No idea what tpi it is currently.. and it's just a couple nuts and lock washers, so anything that will fit..
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all set, in my truck ill drop it back monday
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sweet thanks...
yeah Monday might be out for driving an aluminum can with little more than a concentrated hair dryer for heat...
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- Fasten heat shield
- adjust timing and Carb
- Rear tire carrier fix (details on the break and fix to follow.. thanks Smike)
- New hood bushings
- assuming new engine harness arrives, (USPS) Delco SI alternator conversion.
All done this weekend minus timing adjustments...
Got to installing the Pangolin Alt Brackets...
Fairly strait forward install, only a few "humm" moments when there were just too many bolt holes in the block to decipher what would work best.. ended up making a spacer for the adjustment arm out of a spare sun sheet spacer.. Forgot some of the timing cover bolts were 'wet' and almost started freaking that I had another something to address..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150215_071607_zpshifygdjt.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150215_071607_zpshifygdjt.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150215_145933_zps3gzc5xaw.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150215_145933_zps3gzc5xaw.jpg.html)
Harness arrived in SAT mail.. Nice pliable wrap, fresh wires, and all stock colors.
hacked off the factory alternator plug the second I opened the box.
Some solder, shrink and a couple new connectors, the Delco SI alternator was wired up and charging.
Picked up a Heat Shield for the 2.25 that was always missing from my motor. With the dynamat and acoustic floor cover, I wanted this primarily to help the manifolds heat up. Its locked down well, but if there is a rattle I'm sure its coming off..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150215_061556_zpseboxsvrq.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150215_061556_zpseboxsvrq.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150215_142636_zpsy213992w.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150215_142636_zpsy213992w.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150214_212743_zpsc9lknsts.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150214_212743_zpsc9lknsts.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150214_212852_zpsfdi1bozm.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150214_212852_zpsfdi1bozm.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150215_145921_zpsovzhoh8j.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150215_145921_zpsovzhoh8j.jpg.html)
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Tire carrier and spares mounted this morning... (thanks smike)
300 lbs of rock salt and oil dry ready for simulated weight... round 2 today.
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Loaded both spares
simulated winch weight with 120 lbs in the rear load floor
2100 - Steer Axle
2420 - Drive Axle
ready to make some springs
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Alignment, tire rotation complete..
Left Scotty's this AM for Carter... truck misfiring the whole way down Winton..
Threw the red triangle on the back and limped it back..
with all the manhandling of the spares and hood, it must have jostled the coil loose from its insanely stupid stock mounting location.. (ground issue) Going to use some of my Aqualu cuttings and make a backing plate I can Tap onto the firewall, maybe even do a ground wire.
+1 for having a coil mounted to your engine block.
Drive up to Carter was enjoyable.. got stuck on a hill in 2wd.. had to get out, lock hubs and put in 4wd to move..
while in 4wd I had some fun in the parking lot...
just had to bury it in a 20 ft high snow mountain before tucking it away till the spring...
Will still get the winch, bumper, springs mounted when everything arrives, just off the road for now..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150223_103107_zpsumv6eior.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Fall%202014%20Service/IMG_20150223_103107_zpsumv6eior.jpg.html)
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poor truck in salt bath
sweet rockers
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its seen salt.... ;D
I figured by the time Im ready to hand this down, boys will be old enough to assist in the rebuild/refurb :)
I'm over it enough that its not going to fall apart between then and now...
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pulled this guy out yesterday to charge the battery and change the oil... (don't have enough on my plate) Love driving this truck... it just goes..
Putting some miles on it to see what the story with my RMS repair is..
The oil I drained was a bit thin and faint smell of gas...
I'm not freaking out yet.. winter driving/warehouse wheeling/and plenty of choke will do that...
remember cars use to suck 40 years ago...
Might need some M4 love in the near future (if interested).. leaf springs needs swapping ;D
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Carb issues....
not enough to stop me from driving.. this is a kid carrying, eye catching, swamp ass producing machine...
have a kit coming in the mail and might just order a rebuild as well..
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Koenig winch mounted on new HD bumper...
working on crank bolt to install driveshaft so I can spool the cable...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_0924_zpsvg9ysup2.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_0924_zpsvg9ysup2.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_0926_zpsqezzd7sd.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_0926_zpsqezzd7sd.jpg.html)
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Alcan springs done and installed thanks to smike..
truck sits a tad higher, drives almost the same with a bit better ride..
frame bushings still might need to be done and pre load put on leaf springs... but I have some borrowed time...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/IMG_0907_zps3pahbkg3.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/IMG_0907_zps3pahbkg3.jpg.html)
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the preload myth thing is silly, that entire truck moves those bushings about 2 degrees of rotation.
bushings are fine :)
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Rover is in the garage for suspension figuring and final Koenig assembly..
pre load might be silly, but something isn't right with the movement of the front suspension..
frame is up on stands at the moment and shocks removed. still need to yank driveshaft to cycle suspension and get measurements.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/IMG_0984_zps6e3xluzy.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/IMG_0984_zps6e3xluzy.jpg.html)
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your trying to pull apart and bend your front drive shaft on the cross member the way you have it up on stands right now.
put the stands under the axle or lower it back down on tires. you wont be able to get the shaft out without doing one or the other.
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Believe it or not.. its not touching!!!
I lowered the axle slowly once I got it on stands to see full droop.. DS does not touch..
can measure the gap with a feeler gauge, but not touching...
took the DS out since the picture was taken..
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springs must have way settled 2" then. I couldn't get the shocks on with out the truck sitting on the axles.
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Smile I'm with you.
40 year old shackle bushings are the devils work.
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SMike, I would like to personally apologize for even asking you to try and do these bushings...
this is one of those labor of love tasks that only a vehicle owner should even attempt to do...
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Lol
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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drill out rubber, sawsall though sleeve, chisel out sleeve.
They suck
and i even knew what i was in for from my s10.
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Yup...
Decided I didn't cut enough on side 1.
Need to hack it up a bit more and grind down some chisel bits for the air hammer.
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is a good measurement of castor angle obtained on the top of the kingpin bolts?
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probably the best you can do ya
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Truck is on the road today...
New shocks F/R
4* shims to correct castor angle
Pics to follow... (warning. will all be parking lot shots with a twist)
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Ive only been able to drive to CVS and to work, but my initial impression is it rides better & sits higher..
What I ended up with:
-RANCHO 7000 series shocks.. they are monotube with a brushed zinc coated housing.. they look sharp.
Nice firm ride for a top heavy narrow track truck
-Poly frame bushings and traditional metal/rubber in the springs.
-Military shacks in the front, standard ones in the rear..
-4* pinion shims to correct steering.. after 250 miles i'm going to alignment shop to have true readings taken.
Truck sits nice and level now.. we will see how the springs "break in" over time..
Still on the suspension to do list..
- Notch crossmember for front DS (still removed from truck)
- watch rear shocks with full load in rear.. (might have too much extension and not enough compression room)
- if this were a Jeep I would be looking for a high steer option.. don't know if there is anything like that in the rover world.
- throw a few tack welds on the shims to perches
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1060_zpsvtz6vzh1.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1060_zpsvtz6vzh1.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1066_zpsrga4vgj4.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1066_zpsrga4vgj4.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1065_zpsgukwtbg9.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1065_zpsgukwtbg9.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1064_zpsqdt6uhmd.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1064_zpsqdt6uhmd.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1063_zpshncbkkau.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1063_zpshncbkkau.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1062_zpsz815znir.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_1062_zpsz815znir.jpg.html)
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Winter work:
Stock PCV setup
Koenig
Fuel pump (NOS)
New Front DS, possible frame notch required
Tcase shifter anti rattle clip
Fluids
valves
exhaust
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finally...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/th_IMG_2135_zpsvt8tal6u.mp4) (http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/IMG_2135_zpsvt8tal6u.mp4)
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That's awesome! Must hold 1000' of cable too.
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Love this thing!
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PTO right?
PTO is so fun, love the shovel winch / boom
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Front crankshaft driven PTO...
of course my engine didn't have the correct crank pulley.. NOS part from some desert country
the adapter flange is still obtainable reproduction
Had the driveshaft made by a forum member down in NC..
still need to work on the correct keyway for the winch end of business.. but it was enough to spool the cable..
Still to do:
-need to create an engagement handle lock...
(last thing i would need is some idiot playing with it in a parking lot and I take off and the winch sucks my truck inside itself
-tow point on bumper
-need to fabricate winch clamps for the rear frame mount... Have and original to copy..
some pictures of the crank adapter, driveshaft (hole through front frame) and original sees procure so you can get an idea of whats going on there...
lost the ability to hand crank engine... need a new battery :)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_1780_zpsmozszv8f.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_1780_zpsmozszv8f.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_2159_zpsbx9l8ryq.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_2159_zpsbx9l8ryq.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_2160_zpsrjcygbkg.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_2160_zpsrjcygbkg.jpg.html)
(http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/images/koenig_1459_1.jpg)
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Winter work:
Stock PCV setup
Koenig
Fuel pump (NOS)
New Front DS, possible frame notch required
Tcase shifter anti rattle clip
Fluids
valves
exhaust (This is next... figuring out the pipes is the hard part)
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Winter work:
Stock PCV setup (running aftermarket)
Koenig
Fuel pump (NOS)
New Front DS, possible frame notch required
Tcase shifter anti rattle clip
Fluids
valves
exhaust (This is next... figuring out the pipes is the hard part)
trucks running strong..
steering wheel vibration accelerating at certain speeds.. DS balance, U joint or front axle pinion are my first thoughts..
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I'm not digging into this right at the moment, just going to live with it....
after driving my Series for a week now in 25-45 degree weather I have figured out my over heating discrepancy.
I run 2 temp gauges.. a dual smiths mechanical and the stock electronic unit.
mechanical probe is in upper rad hose, stock electronic is in stock location.
I would notice at various times while driving my stock gauge would creep into the red (running a 'hot" T-stat)
mechanical gauge would remain steady
last night I noticed while driving around with lights and blower on, my temp gauge was into the red
mechanical gauge would remain steady
This morning I had an extend HWY drive and I fooled around a bit...
electric dash load would raise the needle on my gauge.. shutting lights and blower off would drop needle back to "safe" area (not immediate, slowly)
mechanical gauge would remain steady
so what's different back there...
Voltage stabilizer is stock, flasher is electronic LED unit, all lamps on truck LED
only think I can think of is perhaps electronic flasher is messing with voltage stability?
any thoughts on this one? like I said not going to tear into this, everything works fine..
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Can you swap sensor locations? That would be the first thing I'd want to do. Upper rad hose is post-stat so should stay stable even if stat isn't opening as it should.
I'd expect an electrical issue would react faster, unless the needle motion is damped.
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it is dampened..
I am planning on this, but the stock unit requires a block ground.. hard to do that in the upper hose..
and if it wasn't some funky British tp on the brass I would make some kind of splitter..
plan on replacing the radiator this spring once the prototype im waiting for comes out..
no coolant means I can mess around in there
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if you verify electric loads on and off, make the needle move, you have an electric issue as in supply variation or ground issues with higher dash load. I would first throw a DVM on some things while switching on and off accessories to verify supply voltages is consistant.
that OEM temp sensor is basically a glow plug sitting in the block- its a resistive heating element your essentially powering (low power) and monitoring as the resistance of it as it changes with coolant temp. If you vary the input sense voltage, its like shifting the calibration table of it...
I think creep changes also make sense because the resistive element has a time constant involved before it stabilizes to a new set of conditions- input voltage or the coolant temp change.
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oh wow. that sounds insanely sensitive to voltage changes. Fully agree with the smart guy that does a lot of these things :)
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reasons why most new stuff is 5V with a regulated supply, so if its say 10-15V coming from truck, regulated to 5, everything still plays nice.
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Winter work:
Stock PCV setup (running aftermarket)
Koenig
Fuel pump (NOS)
New Front DS, possible frame notch required
Tcase shifter anti rattle clip
Fluids
valves
exhaust (This is next... figuring out the pipes is the hard part)
Finally got around to making my LR a 4x4 again..
Stock LR front DS was about an inch too short and an inch to thick to work with the new springs and shackles.
I decided to call Great Basin Rovers from a custom front unit instead of Tom Woods
GBR makes the front DS out of thinner tube with a thicker wall, and of course a longer slip joint.
he assured me to try his DS first before notching the cross member.
I have to say I am pleasantly surprised and thrilled I have one less welding job on the frame this summer..
Need to flex it out again in the parking lot and check clearances, but I don't see this being a problem
Next task at hand is a regular tune up and perhaps some cooling work..
Still thinking about the electrical gauge issue.. also debating relocating the mechanical sender to the block for a more accurate reading (hence fixing the electrical issue ;))
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Driveshafts/IMG_2737_zpsnfusyttl.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Driveshafts/IMG_2737_zpsnfusyttl.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Driveshafts/IMG_2744_zpsmviv6w4i.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Driveshafts/IMG_2744_zpsmviv6w4i.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Driveshafts/IMG_2743_zps8ikit4qj.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Driveshafts/IMG_2743_zps8ikit4qj.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Driveshafts/IMG_2745_zpshicnhqie.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Driveshafts/IMG_2745_zpshicnhqie.jpg.html)
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misplaced my Chilton's with the nice color diagram..
can anybody help me with some spark plug reading..
I think its about time to adjust the valves.. just wanted to see if there was more to the story..
unless I messed it up last night.. plugs should be 1-4 (left to right) rotated 180 deg in second picture
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/IMG_2801_zpsteytgdts.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/IMG_2801_zpsteytgdts.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/IMG_2802_zps6tj6giyc.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/IMG_2802_zps6tj6giyc.jpg.html)
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Always something.....
took out of storage, got gas, get on expressway.. all is good
when I got to the off ramp after a good 15 min of high speed (well for a rover)
I heard a rather loud nasty noise while coasting..
truck drives normally under power, but a downshift or coasting and I have some rather unpleasant noise..
(loud harmonic noise from under truck, I know vague.)
got it home and swapped vehicles due to meetings...
any idea on where to start or what to expect when i get home?
Ashcroft (rebuilt) driveline and Roverdrive.. all engage and function properly..
front axle in 2wd
rear Salisbury in what I assumed was good condition
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everything in N with wheels chocked so there's no load and it doesn't roll over you - check all yokes, joints, ouputs, inputs...
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I have a sneaky feeling its rear diff...
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inner pinnion bearing rear diff
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Pinion yoke was loose as a goose... Nut was finger tight
Knocked the cover off and found some scoring from the pinion gear on the carrier.
Ring looks good, no chips or wear marks.
So what do I do?
Torque it down and go or get familiar with a Salisbury?
I will add, the pinion has always been a source of attention.
It's leaked, been loose on occasion, and there always seems to be some slack back there...
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Crush sleeve or shimmed?
If its shimmed and shimmed right, tighten the dogshit out of it weld the nut and ignore it
Tapatalking in traffic
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get an over haul kit for it, i can go through it, and weld the nut.
i thought it was a dana60?
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really???
I'm taking it out of the truck.. easier to deal with and it only took 45 min to disassemble..
felt like i needed to do something last night
its a Dana 60 center section as far as this is concerned..
bearings no problem, seals no problem..
gear set and carrier are different but interchangeable..
issue is, no 4.7:1 ratio for a "Dana 60" and yoke is different
doing some homework today to see what options are..
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Crush sleeve or shimmed?
crush..
i remember the first time i changed the seal, instruction were to mark location and depth on pinion as to not overdo it..
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use a normal 1/2" ratchet and tighten the nut as tight as you can get it. red lock tight, or peen / sqush the nut before you re install.
no normal man without a cheater bar can further crush a crush sleeve. everyone i have ever done takes a 3-4' bar and grunting to get it to move in the "crush" region. an 18v dewalt impact wont crush it either.
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this might be the only way for the current moment..
seems British Dana 60 parts are harder to come by than American Dana 60 parts..
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928 and 572 all have welded pinnion nuts now. too many failures costing gear sets.
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I got a call from a customer this AM..
hears through another shop I was asking about rear ends..
told me to drop it off tomorrow ;D
don't know where this will go.. but im feeling better about it than 10 min ago
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928 and 572 all have welded pinnion nuts now. too many failures costing gear sets.
571 front as well, if I recall right.
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SRT got a 1 ton upgrade last night
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Salisbury/IMG_0009_zpsipjymhkr.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Salisbury/IMG_0009_zpsipjymhkr.jpg.html)
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that looks like a Dr Ng visit right there!
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Thought the same thing! Ooof!
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My people built the pyramids.. I got a couple tricks up my sleeve..
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pinion gear chewed...
new gear set on order
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preload/pinion bearing i assume caused failure?
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While the rear axle is out I picked up a new rear hose, made some brakes pipes, and am in the process of painting the various brackets.
It all went down hill when for some reason I decided to remove the rear shackles from the frame mounts.
Needless to say Im 1/4 of the way in on the rear frame bushings.
Chewed the rubber out of one and have to grab the air hammer tomorrow.... Hopefully these won't hold me up.
This wasn't exactly the way I envisioned spending time with the truck...
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Old bushings chewed and knocked out, new plolurathane ones to match the front installed...
shackles painted and new SOLID cover arrived.
Waiting on LR brake parts and a call on actual axle :-\
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Picked up the axle yesterday afternoon and got it all settled in the truck last night..
little bit of bearing and race drama I was thankfully able to solve..
I guess the Brits shim this carrier on the bearing side of the race, not the cast iron side..
thankfully Timken makes both American and British "D60" races.. just took a little digging..
some exterior upgrades to keep it full of oil and hopefully leak free, included an updated pinion flange from a defender..
2 hrs. soup to nuts, including a quick on the lift run in...
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Salisbury/IMG_0033_zpsinkjd9iy.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Salisbury/IMG_0033_zpsinkjd9iy.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Salisbury/IMG_0034_zpsbqluy9ii.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Salisbury/IMG_0034_zpsbqluy9ii.jpg.html)
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when it rains hard and steady it puts my gearbox leak into perspective...
its not the biggest leak in the truck..
rear axle running strong.. truck running well.. time to upgrade something ::)
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how about a sway bar so it doesnt drive like a yoyo or am i just that fat on one side lol
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upgrades present themselves...
broke the rear upper shock mount this AM..
going to have to drive home and evaluate later... :'(
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Broke clean off...
still DD status for the moment..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_4422_zpsrdbzyvgd.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_4422_zpsrdbzyvgd.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_4423_zpsokes1won.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_4423_zpsokes1won.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_4425_zpsdbakibn4.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Alcan%20Springs/Rover%20Flex/IMG_4425_zpsdbakibn4.jpg.html)
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Mmmm crusty
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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yeah.. but frame isn't punky there at all..
I think I either need an M4 shock location redesign or to go back to some "stocker" gas shocks..
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needs less bush mechanic welds
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Finally got a jack permanently mounted in the rover.
baby hi-lift fit perfectly behind 2nd row, handle mounted out of load space.
Its just enough to do a roadside tore change..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Hi-Lift/IMG_4460_zpsjnm7pvje.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Hi-Lift/IMG_4460_zpsjnm7pvje.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Hi-Lift/IMG_4461_zpscw6ogivw.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Hi-Lift/IMG_4461_zpscw6ogivw.jpg.html)
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doing some rear shock figuring tonight..
got some Jeep parts to throw at the rover suspension :o
not a whole lot of room to relocate upper mount..
Driveshaft also a limiting factor since it passes through the chassis..
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installed an anti mistake mechanism on the koenig...
now that the driveshaft is in, I have been cautious of walker byers that might have fiddled with the controls.
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_0015_zpsh7vabt8z.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_0015_zpsh7vabt8z.jpg.html)
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_0014_zpsxy3y4bgk.jpg) (http://s534.photobucket.com/user/rejeep/media/74%20Series%20III/Koening%20Winch/IMG_0014_zpsxy3y4bgk.jpg.html)
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Smart.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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I need an education on shocks..
or these guys help... http://justacarguy.blogspot.com/2016/11/i-dont-think-ive-ever-seen-shadetree.html (http://justacarguy.blogspot.com/2016/11/i-dont-think-ive-ever-seen-shadetree.html)
driving around for the last couple weeks minus one rear.. some wheel hop and vibration at WOT, but were dealing with >100 HP here..
The rear of the rover is limited in articulation due to the DS passing through the frame..
I'm ok with that.. were not flexing to impress the ladies here.
With the truck stationary I have a measurement of 19" between shock mount points.
I have been having a hard time finding a shock that satisfies the compression and extension that I want.
where do I sacrifice? or do I just need to spend more time on bump stops and limit straps?
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hard time finding or hard time measuring?
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Race guys would have more knowledge but I would put the shaft about 40% compression and 60% droop since this isn't a high speed machine. Adjust bumps and limit straps accordingly.
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what would you end up with for extended length if you just size it to let the bump stops do their work? Something too short or something that allows too much droop? If the latter, I'd run a center limit strap to keep the driveshaft happy and go about my day.
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I'd run a center limit strap to keep the driveshaft happy and go about my day.
I had to do this on the Willys.
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hard time finding or hard time measuring?
I can measure, cant spell
I'm starting from scratch.. these springs are way taller than anything offered off the shelf.
bump stops I guess will need to be adjusted down.. how do I factor load carrying ability into that?
I know this is all rather simple stuff.. just don't want to miss anything
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109's come with limit straps and mounting points from the factory.... mine were never present since purchase..
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short version on starting from scratch:
figure out your maximum compression clearance and maximum droop clearance.
in your case droop limited by driveshaft to frame, compression limited by bumpstops or tire clearance or driveshaft to frame or axle to fuel tank or whatever
it's [obviously] best to have bumpstops hit before shocks bottom, so extend if needed.
I'd then look at compressed shock lengths half an inch shorter than that, and see where that puts me for droop, and I'd probably center limit for the driveshaft to keep additional flex available for articulation if it's any sort of significant difference
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short version on starting from scratch:
figure out your maximum compression clearance and maximum droop clearance.
jack on the pumpkin, ass in the air? Frame on stands axle at drop?
in your case droop limited by driveshaft to frame, compression limited by bumpstops or tire clearance or driveshaft to frame or axle to fuel tank or whatever
it's [obviously] best to have bumpstops hit before shocks bottom, so extend if needed.
with the absence of bumpstops I should focus on propshaft? tires will stuff no issue..
load carrying capacity is then determined by spring ability and eventually bumpstop height?
I'd then look at compressed shock lengths half an inch shorter than that, and see where that puts me for droop, and I'd probably center limit for the driveshaft to keep additional flex available for articulation if it's any sort of significant difference
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don't I need to stuff weight in the back to get the max compression value?
weight of the vehicle alone I think is where I went wrong last time around and why I'm down a shock mount...
good thing rock salt is in season around here....
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jack on the pumpkin, ass in the air? Frame on stands axle at drop?
tape measure in hand, A-B=C style whether at ride height or on a lift.
IMO it's usually not practical to get all the way to full stuff in a static, in-the-shop situation with leaf springs.
RTI ramp or similar can let you watch for what gets close and where you need to stick said tape measure
with the absence of bumpstops I should focus on propshaft? tires will stuff no issue..
load carrying capacity is then determined by spring ability and eventually bumpstop height?
yup & yup
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such a blast to drive.... even with improper length shocks.. ::)
if it weren't for kids and winter there would be no reason to own a real car
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no real car is so fun
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Need to upgrade the rear seats to real seatbelts.. latch system for car seat won’t cut it anymore.. the boys are big..
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Spent the last 2 months with this guy torn down in the garage...
RMS, clutch, re cored radiator, new wiring for the front clip, new TRE’s, valve adjustments, other little misc items..
But more importantly.... 7.50 x 16 tires are back ;D
(https://i.ibb.co/fq2kpmQ/80-A2146-A-9708-419-A-8350-41-C6-BD6-E574-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VJtgSX3)
(https://i.ibb.co/vPRMQr8/9-C3914-B3-FF9-F-4048-8691-B75-B25-D47838.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BZFYr7R)
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Nice
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fully upgraded the heater and rear speaker panel..
this is a winter certified machine...