M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: etk300ex on January 10, 2012, 09:36:45 AM
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looks good! sorry about the shoulder!
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That was pretty shitty lol. Could of been worse without the cage.
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anyone got a hook up on corbeau's?
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Picked up a 20 gal aluminum cell with a sender for $100 :)
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the tenzo's left last night :)
My last few CL experiences have went too smoothly, I should get a doozy soon haha
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Quadratech has a set of corbeau SS for (Black Cloth & Black Vinyl) $339.98 or (Black Vinyl) $319.98. that seems like a damn good price. any options on cloth or vinyl?
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Vinyl is easy cleanup, cloth helps prevent swampass
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dont get cloth, they suck
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I like the vinyl better, no wet ass.
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I loth swamp ass
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now the tough part, black or grey...
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Seats ordered :)
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/aefc2bfe-0cae-9433.jpg)
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Gayyyyy
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The fuel sender is backwards for my hawg, that will be confusing lol
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Does that mean it will spit the foam chunks back into the tank? :P
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No this is a real fuel cell lol
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Can I get a bay at M4WD on Saturday? I got to drop the titan off at ziebart. I'll bring cheap bourbon and heat money lol
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not sure my weekend plans yet but the shop is available.
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10-4
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Hydro assist ordered!
Need to run to surplus and grab some metal on lunch
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eric if you see this could you grab me a stick each of the two smaller sizes of round bar they have out back in surplus, cut in half or thirds is ok. they had like 1/2" and 5/8" round bar, 24' sticks.
i had to get 3/8" out of prime, but forgot the other sizes in surplus....
if you cant no biggie
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Answer your phone homes!
The smaller is 9/16 and it's non-bending?
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you got (1) 5/8"
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slammed at work, sorry. dont carry my phone
thanks, thats fine!
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not alot of smaller sized stuff in the surplus, didnt get exactly what I wanted but oh well, want to get fuel cell and seat mounted tomorrow.
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You didn't want non-bending did you?
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what is non bending lol, is the the hack term for like hardened vs annealed? lol
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Idk lol, the lady said it is not bendable
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/aefc31d8-833d-a485.jpg)
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Look at these sweet welds :P
(http://img.tapatalk.com/aefc31d8-8386-9ec0.jpg)
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i think it looks more legit witht he 2x4 in there!
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Crap I was gonna stop and weigh this hawg when I left your place, totally forgot. My trailer wheel is looking pretty bent these days, its a little sketchy ::)
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im looking at buying a new trailer...
if i got the right offer on mine it would help me pull the trigger
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Post up what you've got, Arie. I'm looking too.
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ill take a picture when im up at the warehouse...
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I was going to go with a 5pt with 2" shoulder straps latch n link, but those 4pt, 2" corbeaus with the buckle just look so damn convenient. I hate the 4pts I have because the latch always rode up no matter how tight the lap was, but I'm sure thats because they weren't mounted anywhere near correctly and are were shitty harnesses. decisions decisions :o
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I got PRP 4- points for the kids so they can buckle themselves in.
I would go 5-point for driver. Especially with your record of roll overs. Hahahaha
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5pt totally worth it to keep the buckle in place.
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Your right, 5pt it is
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what are those hose clamps that you endorse smike? gator?
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Damn harness's are back ordered from everywhere till end of April >:/
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race season is coming lol thats why i bought my window nets early.
ya COMP cams Gator clamps at least 4 times stronger than any normal hose clamp even the IDEAL ones suck compared to these.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/COMP-Cams/Product-Line/COMP-Cams-Gator-Brand-Clamps/?autoview=SKU
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Try PRP
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Ouch, I can have 2 shipped for the price of 1 prp lol
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Gotta pay for quality. 8)
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That's too much quality for me :)
Poly performance has crows for $80. Think I'm gonna go with them.
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ordered the crows with harness pads and 10% off from pirate
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Im just going to buy new seats somehow turned into $1000 of new stuff lol
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I need to get a little welder for tacking a non-essential items so I can do things without traveling
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You are the man!
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Just trying follow in your footsteps
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i will sell you my trusty 80 am flux core craftsman
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How much?
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i see you were quite generous in the heat donation cup, you can borrow it on perm loan for a while if you want. It might need a new 10$ drive wheel but i think it was good. Paul used it for a while and i use to use it to tack stuff in the trailer.
works on 110, closer to your box the better. FLux core, no gas. not sure wire status, but its functional.
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Haha ok. I've used quite a bit of m4wd materials and labor.
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ill get it from the other shop and test it out tonight. i think i have a shaty mask you can have also. If you get decent welds out of that baby you will be a machine quality welder!
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Didn't you see those welds above? :))
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I got mad boxes :))
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Git er done.
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awww man, I just noticed these bastards dont send the $3 fittings you need to tap the steering box with the hydro assist kit >:(
is there anywhere local to get a 1/4" pipe to #6 JIC fitting?
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TSC should have them.
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http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/1-4-pipe-to-6-jic-fitting-for-hydro-assist-tapping.html
you need stainless or brass?
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Brass
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i think i have you covered, #6 is 3/8? or 6/16"s?
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Either
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You got any e-fans laying around smike? Mine stocker is hosed, you can wiggle it like 2 inches lol.
I think may have fucked up on my hydro assist ram, I pulled the trigger on the 2"x6" ram on the last day of A 25% off sale, but after doing some research the 1.5"x6" is designed for the stock pump and the 2" is for the upgraded pump. So I either exchange it at $30 shipping each way or order the upgraded pump for $150 or give it a whirl and order it later if it blows and do the work twice ::)
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should have just bought my full hydro setup when i got full PSC :)
i would think a 2" would just be slower and easier on the pump / box
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since it's assist it should kinda match the box and ram, they might fight each other. I bet there's a restricted oriface somewhere that you can drill out for more flow.
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i have a couple fans i believe.
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should have just bought my full hydro setup when i got full PSC :)
I've asked you numerous times when is this going down! :P
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2500$ you can every thing between the link bolts and the wheel studs :)
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I want a ram and an orbital and some hoses
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these are all things that can be purchased off the shelf
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I got $200 into the assist. I figured minimum $500 for full hydro
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There is a restrictor in the pump that can be drilled out apparently
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The more I ponder this the more I just want to go full hydro...
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Do it and be done with it
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i have to make a new tie rod, if that helps. mine could be shortened to work on yours.
TG orbital, 100$ in hoses 100$ cylinder from TSC
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Do it and be done with it
X2
http://www.surpluscenter.com/hydraulic.asp?catname=hydraulic
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Goddammit then I'm doin it!
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2"x6" I'm thinking for toy axle? Double acting? What cylinder were you running on the aussie buggy rywan?
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7715-6&catname=hydraulic
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=943-06&catname=hydraulic
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7940-6&catname=hydraulic
TSC doesn't appear to have a 6"
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TG orbital, steering column, and mount on order for a nice price! I've been getting TG stuff from Dave's Off Road lately, he seems on top of things. He is waiting till TG opens to see if they'll exchange that assist without the re-stocking fee.
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I have 2 colums you can choose from, with quick release. A little late I guess.
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this one bolts right up to toyota linkage
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Oh. Gotcha.
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http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7715-6&catname=hydraulic
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=943-06&catname=hydraulic
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7940-6&catname=hydraulic
Any cylinder input? The only difference I see is: tie-rod type cylinder, 3/8" ports; wire-lock gland retainer, 1/2" ports, External gland, SAE 8 ports.
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first one looks good
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those all have clevis ends. I know surplus center has some with heim ends, that's the Right Way to go...
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like this http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7259-6&catname=hydraulic
why's that? I'd figure you'd want the cylinder end to stay put so your hose fittings aren't rocking back n forth
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Because you never get things perfectly in plane, and end up killing bushings and bolts and mounts like 571 does.
Don't worry, smike will say for your use it's fine...
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lol
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toyota use is a little different... i never had issues or cared about 1/8 slop on the CJ.
erik does the same with his buggy with a little better setup with Bronze bushings that are replaceable. Tractor supply off the shelf components were the attraction for me.
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I'm running TRE's so is that the better way to go?
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id go 3/4 or 7/8ths heims honestly. i hate TRE, but they seem to work well on the Dak.
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they seem to have proven themselves a weak point on the Dak... have had VERY few steering issues over the years that weren't a TRE bending like a pretzel
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and the list continues lol
Would those included in your old tie rod smike? ;D I can probably re-coop a couple hundred for my high steer
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actually i am upsizing on my new tie rod, so the old 3/4 heims are available. i wont have a need for the spare or two that i have also.
they are so cheap from ruff stuff though...
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My HF master disconnect has shit the bed after 2 weeks lol
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Quality.
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I have a tie rod with the bungs welded in from Atom, I replaced it with a longer one. Its 1.5" .250 wall square. I even have extra bungs if you need to shorten it. If you want it let me know.
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cool, I'll grab it and see which option fits best
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finally sent hydro assist back. new cylinder ordered. purchased new water pump and disconnect switch ::) from the Eagle. harnesses should be here tomorrow.
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I dont think the S-10 rad is going to work, too wide. Be nice to mount it in the back, but thats a whole nother project to do before big hawgs ::)
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My belts came with wrap around ends, I ordered bolt in, awaiting a response >:(
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belt hardware on the way from poly performance, installed other than that.
cylinder should be here today.
assist should be arriving in fresno toady and orbital should then be on its way, cross your fingers for firday delivery.
changed the water pump Saturday, broke almost every bolt getting to it, and had to sawzall off the fan clutch. the studs that came with it were not threaded enough to install the pulley with out the fan clutch so that halted that project. The s-10 rad i grabbed from smike is too wide and completely opposite hook ups so that's out, probably just going to buy a stock rad.
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Where can I get a 50a relay for this e-fan? all i can find is 20 or 30a at the parts stores
Great advance story yesterday, I overhear lady ask for a muffler clamp for a Camry, guy says oh looks like we dont carry those for that car ::)
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doubt you need a 50amp relay
how is 571 set up? two 40amps for the rear and one for the front?
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nu way... duh?
available in SMP or cole Hersee
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something like that. if you can't find a big enough relay just run two in parallel.
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That fan has some massive wire on it, i was just guessing 50.
I looked at nu-way yesterday and did not see any 30a+ relays
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ask... we are not retail oriented...
we have the ability to order ANYTHING under the sun..
its just a matter of how long and how much...
Farmington/Carter are the best in terms of the guys sitting and looking through books with you..
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will do.
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and you can always drop the "arie said you will help find this" line..
Advantage ER is good too when their not swamped answering phones...
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haha. I usually swing by carter on the way to RGH.
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Farmington is awesome. They help me with anything I need, and know what they are doing. Robin is a great lady, and always says good things about Arie.
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Robyn even let's me walk around the back room trying to match up crazy brake rotors. Try that at Autozone.
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They let me do that too. It's great.
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Done it at a random unknown Advance in bumfuck NY with Wingman and F700 parts! :)
When you walk in dirty and desperate things are different... Haha
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Ahh, good times... :-\
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so my water pump came with new studs, but not new nuts. Iif you need one you need the other dumb dumbs!
Thinking about going with a solenoid for the e-fan, I much like the bolted connections better than a plastic relay with slip on cheesy crimp ons
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I like ring terminals much better too
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Solenoid In stock at nu way, I'm impressed!
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New rad and Efan in!
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Oh and my dumb ass didn't check it first and it's pulling right now damnit, already did the wires up nice >:/
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So after reading the pirate 4x4 griffin radiator cooling facts, puller is ideal? Never thought about it, makes sense to not blow hot engine air through the rad I suppose.
I think my engine loses about 500 rpm when the fan kicks on lol
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Pusher fans are normally on aux coolers.. Primarily puller fans go on rads..
Had the same confusion when I installed one on the YJ...
Puller deff the way to go in most applications..
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After some bitching, orbital is finally on the way! Should of just bought it and got a refund instead of exchanging it :banghead:
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so with the larger fuel cell and fixed back seats, I gots no storage space anymore, thats a problemo
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m4 is a sweet storage and fluids system fabricator
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this thing may be dropped off at m4wd next week for a non freeloader visit lol, time is running out!
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next week is filling up already, so you better get your request and list in!
tac0 front boots sometime (looked at writups, says special tools / nightmare possible) bah!
Aussie 8.25 test install Wednesday
adjustable arms for TJ instal
hope 571 isnt broken up too bad.
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that adjustable arms on a tj is me right?
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ha, no. i forgot about you Tom, your shit too we should probably get it lol
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Yeah let me know when. I can be a big help. maybe slam out one of the other jobs and sneak mine in after?
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You are almost busy enough to quit the day job. :)
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Speakibg of busy, a work friend's Focus needs exhaust and tie rods installed...
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I need hydro installed.
and maybe a little something like this on the knuckles if time allows
[attachment deleted by admin]
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I'm assuming you will actually weld it though? Not just kina splash some metal on top of the joints like in those pics haha
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how is the full hydro on this hog going?
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Well I have a cylinder, steering column and an orbital :D
I'm going to go to TSC tonight and see about lines. The high pressure line has become one with the steering box, even after spraying it with liquid torch for a month. So hopefully I can look up the fitting info online today. Maybe get a new stock line and get an adapter fitting to the orbital?
Did you end up making a new tie rod?
Going to be in the shop tomorrow night?
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Oh and my fucking tailgate fell off hahaha, fuck that welder and myself!
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shop time depends on how this toyota truck goes. if i can knock it out tonight i might have some free space Friday night, but if it brings the suck i will be busy.
i made a new tie rod for 571 and went up in size on tube and heims.
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TSC had about 1 or less of each fitting, and hose either 1' or 5' jeesh! At least I got an idea of what I need now.
Figured on going with 3/8th hose or should I go 1/2?
and why does my stock high pressure line like 4' long and does all kinds of loop d loops whens it s 1' away? Can I just go straight in or is that designed like that for a reason?
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TSC makes hoses any size you want. You have to ask. They do 90 or straight on the ends. What fittings do you need?
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3/8 is what we all use.
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its designed like that to be a "cooler"
i misunderstood your txt, ryan is right TSC makes the hoses, they have a ton more stuff in back and anything you need they should have instock, and make while you wait.
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Well wtf, I asked the guy if that was all they had and he said yep, you think they would of shared that info...
Orbital is SAE 8 and came with #6 jic fittings. Ram is SAE 8. Pump is I think 3/8 npt, I have a bolt that matches lol. low press is 5/8 hose.
This was my plan as of 11:00 last night ;D
Ram & orbital: SAE8 male x 3/8 npt female swivel 90. 3/8 hose with 3/8 npt male
High pressure: match bolt the fits x 3/8 npt swivel. 3/8 hose with 3/8 npt male
Low pressure: SAE8 male to 5/8" barb??? or combination thereof.
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its designed like that to be a "cooler"
ahhh
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I'm going to run to that place by chips old shop and see what they got on lunch.
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Please share how they are. Looked good online an then I was excited to see them opening locally but haven't needed anything.
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Very pleased! I plopped my shit on the counter and said i need these hooked together lol. It prob cost a little more than I could of pieced it together for, but I dont mind paying a little extra to walk out of 1 store with the right shit.
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http://www.pdiretail.com/locations/rochester.html
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whats the M4WD plans for tomorrow?
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Hydro installed, tie rod needed a bump stop due to the extreme movement of the TREs ??? :o ;D . Need to replace TRE's with heims, hopefully can find same thread, but its big hawgs ready.
Fucking alternator shit the bed during hydro install, dont think it liked ATF splashing on it. Emergency swap of GM alternator was done! In stock at M4WD.
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M4 odds the place to be when custom work is needed
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ya rod end cylindars seem to move around alot. kinda makes me wonder why my cleveses havent broken yet.
hope everything works out and she gains some power on the retraction dirrection. that shaft is awful BIG killing area
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Hey I was just thinking that it seems rain is in the future and half my front axle is bare metal lol. Can you crank the heat Wednesday morning so I can lay some paint on there before we leave?
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heat doesnt stay on when im not there, sorry lol
it will be fine, most of the buggy is bare metal
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Fine but it's really going to kill the looks of my hawg :)
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we should have powder coated it when it was hot!
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and the heat is a safety issue and not a usage issue lol
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Yeah I figured haha
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i am covered in half $mill for fire though lol
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Well shit we should of dumped some more ATF on that alternator :)
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Lol it wouldn't have taken much. It was glowing good
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bleeding instructions says full lock turns bad
http://www.howeperformance.com/pdfs/bleed-instr.pdf
The pump restrictor actually unscrews from the pump, drill, screw back in. Damn that would of been simple while it was apart :o
(http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=10579.0;attach=12215;image)
Once out, turn the restrictor upside down on a hard surface and tap a couple of times. A bushing will fall out. Now drill the orifice in the restrictor out to 13/64. After drilled out, put the bushing back in and bolt it all back together
Res extension using 3.5" exhaust pipe
(http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=278328&stc=1&d=1166666077)
Cheap res http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Vertical-Steering-Reservoir-Tanks,2062.html
The motivation to work is not schrong today :o
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Hmm, so that alternator is actually a 3-wire correct? We just hooked it up as 1-wire. So I could hook my stock remote sensing wire to it for optimum performance, which I obviously need ;D.
http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/alternator_conversion/wiring_alternator1.html
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ok i really need to work now
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the alternator works i would not complain lol
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I was not complaining n-bomb
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What a pile!
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ridding dirty 86.25% of the weekend!
no good!
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Easy fix. ???
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Not too easy or it'd be fixed!
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Sounds like user error ;D
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looked through the FSM last night, soooooo many things it could be :-\
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hydro works great tho 8)
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m4 does good work!
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This thing ran just fine for over an hour today wtf
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so no change or fix since Gore eh?
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Nope. Cel is still on but it didnt come on until we started fuckin with the sensors so I doubt it will be useful.
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Why did nobody tell me that MCA died?
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Brass monkey
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Why did nobody tell me that MCA died?
cause we thought you were too old to know who he is
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He was 48 years old.
I had Licened to Ill on cassette tape when I was in Junior High, that was a long damn time ago. :'(
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I had to google him... ???
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Why did nobody tell me that MCA died?
I thought you knew
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Who is he?
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A Beasty Boy.
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Marks too old, and Nick is not old enough. Hahahahah
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Ain't that the truth.
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8)
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Brass monkey
dam you in my head
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......Your mother threw away your best porno mag......
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Brass monkey that funky monkey
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I just spent $700 on car seats, in probably done wheeling for a while lol
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What????? you did it wrong
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Car seats are expensive and that sounds about right.
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(http://trus.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pTRU1-11589669reg.jpg) ?
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We got the britax boulevard 70 with cup holders lol
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nothing but the best for little Chase
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you should have gotten the ones with the side impact protection...
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(http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/public/zUEimwsMtbHS8sQ2QacovS8tLWwRpD1JPpVAGV8pKgpYjcFxert67xcbd3GywftoFABplPGI-ZfrStFhnMopxH7H18yXOS3stMFSazWHFFmGogQlOJCNjMwGw7Bhuh1Ga4bIRbZMAW6fDrOL2hX8ta8_LhjFnacWPLrgrrtChwfsCKRnbLys)
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It's got that homes
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I reset the codes last night, fired it up again, (still running just fine) but it did get code 22 = water temp sensor
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that was my first suspect as thats what made my TBI motor stupid, but i thought we tested that and it was good?
id replace it for the 15$ it probably is.
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Yeah we checked the resistance right? My FSM's really suck for finding shit with no Index. But I found a more detailed CEL section and it details each item out on how to troubleshoot it in great detail. I'll get on it this weekend.
Your not suppose to check the codes with it running either. That might of been the problem when we were trying to check it at big hawgs.
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i must have not been present when you were trying to check codes. i thought we tried the on off on off on thing and it didnt work.
we measured the resistance hot and it was within range, probably exactly correct.
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You have to use a jumper in the testing port. I tried it a couple times at big dogs, it just blinked without end. I dont know what the deal was, worked fine yesterday.
I wish I had a bigger yard lol
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Replaced the temp sensor, CEL went off immediately and it actually believe it or not seems more responsive. It would bog down when you hammered on the butterfly before, I just figured is was cause I was hand operating it faster than designed conditions, but it revs right up now. Need to test it out this weekend, maybe hit up WP.
Fuel filter is slightly leaking, seal is missing a chunk, its only been apart 75 times jeez lol. Could be the air problem??? What are you guys using for inline filters? everything I see is not for efi.
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that is an interesting thought, i wonder what my fuel filter on the buggy sees, i wait, its pre pressure before the pump so it doesnt matter AT ALL. autozone, 3$ for a clear filter done. i got a metal one figuring it would be a little less likely to fail racing, but clear is nice for anything else.
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With the pump below tank level, I guess it should be okay to draw through the filter. Has been okay so far... But I know it's no a suggested configuration.
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yota pre-wheeling again punchlist:
-#1 make run more-better :o
-exhaust needs a couple clamps 2.5"
fuel:
-new filter element & 0-ring replacement kit from jegs $7
-new fuel lines 3/8" & relocate cell to the back
alt:
-connect 12V remote charge wire yellow wire--> terminal #1, white wire--> terminal #2
steer:
-drill out PS pump for more flow 13/64 drill bit, see page 12
-larger PS res 3.5" exhaust pipe
-replace TRE's with rod ends. M23 x 1.5â€
axles:
-change fluid drain plugs have disappeared :o
-new knuckle ball seals TG trail safe $50
-top locks on steering arms 12mmx1.00
-5th stud mod while front ends apart apart
-add some beef to bottom of front diff before there is no where to add beef too
-chop out bump stops
-move shock hoops up
brakes:
-cant get rear drums off.
-ebrake would be nice.
-front lines are both pinched, how the flowage?
-add some storage
-trailer needs all new u-bolts, or a trip to scarp yard 1/2x6x2-3/8
some day:
-rotate pinion: cant use u-bolt on diff side, maybe bolt on like d60? high steer is prob the way? slide box style spring mount in lieu of shackles? shackle's up front? start over with new axle housing? high pinion 3rd?
-t-case skid
-nitro tank
-
check post 73, and then again around 100 for some slider box stuff.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=747215&page=2
IMO the final result on the body is fugly as hell but the frame side work seems nice and IIRC from the end of the thread it's working well for him.
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just a thought, maybe it would give me a little tilt on the pinion and also lower a little, doubt it would really do much though...
leafs kinda suck for adjustability, there going to have to stay for awhile though :-\
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you cant get a wrench on that fucking fuel pressure regulator to save your life, busted my knuckles like 8 times fuck!
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Get Chase in there, he has small hands!!
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This thread sucks!!
-
I think I need one of deez
(http://www.lcengineering.com/LCNewsletter/2012/february/febimages/Efi-Gauge-kit-installed.jpg)
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also noticed last night that my cold start thing hose going into the engine was completely kinked, prolly no flow, I dont really think that would do anything tho
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my tie rod is M23 x 1.5" dont find any rod ends with that thread :-\
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Some of our friends were over last night with a 2yr old and he pointed at my truck and said "broken". I said that pretty much sums it up hahahaha.
-
Alternator wired up for remote sense and warning light
Exhaust fixed
Should of grabbed the power steering res off the 4runner at J&J to extend mine. Maybe trip there this weekend.
U-bolts for trailer ordered
What was that high pressure fuel line you were speaking of smike? I cant find the thread.
Whats the consensus on fuel filter for EFI, if its before the pump does it matter?
Need someone manlier than I to get the fuel pressure reg off ;D
Need to get to WP after I get the trailer fixed and figure this fuckin problem out
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I run filters before and after the pump, they are cheap, injectors and pumps are not.
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Any cheap filter I see is "Not For Fuel Injection". What are you running?
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Coarse prefilter, fine after filter.
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most cheap anything filters are 5-15um put one before the pump. The pump is what you need to worry about the the injectors. the injectors have there own 30um filters and wont care. if your pump is graveling enough to clog the injectors you have failed already
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new trailer ubolts
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/stuff/IMG_1210.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/stuff/100_2539.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/stuff/IMG_1208.jpg)
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axle bendage, see gap at bottom of drop
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/stuff/100_2541.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/stuff/100_2540.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/stuff/100_2542.jpg)
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we could probably fix that axle with the pipe bender and my digital level on the lift.....
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I couldn't think of a way to get 3 points on it to bend it in the correct location, but I'm sure we can figure something out
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why dont you drop your trailer off so i can use it to scrap this week, and ill bend your axle back. its just the one axle right? so i could match it up to the good one.
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Is that really something like a quarter inch difference?
With movement there it wouldn't be bent tube it would be bent drop or spindle wouldn't it?
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ya bend drop bend thingy, doesnt matter. doubt the spindle is bent, it would be chewing bearings, spitting grease ect.
put the pipe bender in the center of the axe and bend the middle up
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but that is going to effect both sides, this pict looks like it is the drop that is bent
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unless its fixed it self since last year, both front axle tires were tipped way out at the road.
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Just the one sides bent
The rear axle looks like the drop was cut off and welded back on, its about an inch narrower than the front too
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I need it to help somebody move saturday ::). I can swing it by sunday or next week.
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if only one side is bent i cant help you
get rid of that pile
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especially if it was cut and re-welded.. no wonder it is bad.
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No the one that was rewelded is spot on!
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YEAH CHECKED THIS out again last night, the rear axle is actually 2" narrower than the front, was defiantly cut and re-welded you can see the bead is much thicker (1st pic).
could just bend it in the middle, then I could swap that worn out tire on that side ;D ;D ;D
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All Trailer bearings packed and tightened, marker lights fixed for the 53rd time.
I found a spark plug wire that was bent completely shut and way to far up in the boot, surprised it ran at all like that. Hopefully that was the problem, but I'm sure it's not lol.
Hydro still sucks at turning past center to the right (ram extending) am I screwed with the large diameter shaft? Coulf drill out the restrictor in the pump, but that would give me more flow less pressure right?
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Got a tune up for this thing it will so fast!!!
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Remember to take small steps on the restrictor. Small changes supposedly make a big difference.
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I'm not going to, I need all the pressure I can get
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This thing stumbled once yesterday, and fixed itself with throttle. It was fine the rest of the day, didn't cover a whole lot of ground tho.
Hydro seems to be getting worse, pump is making a lot of noise, and at low speed it will it turn right wheel just spins, no steering movement. Its like the pump shuts itself right off...
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Awesome modification!!
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shut it! its still better than a steering box
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Sure sounds like it.
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Hahaha
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Picked up a new coil for this hawg and noticed it was the same model I got in VA that didn't work. So I hooked the VA one up and it worked fine, idkwtf chadley and brian were doing lol.
Anyway, defiantly much smoother at low rpm's with the new coil, I switched them a couple times to confirm.
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This thing ran for at least an hour no problems, then had a couple hiccups... It seems to typically happens going uphill, but it also on flat ground so its hard to say. Smike said take it to the dealership ;D ;D ;D
Another observation, my hydro was working great for a good couple hours until I let is sit off for a awhile, then loud whiny pump, and no ass. heat issue??? Pretty freaking dangerous on the road too haha, really loose, thinking its because of the tre's flopping back and forth.
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my hydro was working great for a good couple hours until I let is sit off for a awhile, then loud whiny pump, and no ass. heat issue???
sounds like fluid aeration and then it collects in or near the pump when shut down. small resi? I don't know your setup.
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its stock, but it doesn't come close to running out of fluid either way, plus a huge cooler. I'm thinking its worth a try, there was one a JJ i should go get.
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Found this monster PS res off of a landrover. Drilled out the pump restrictor, figured if it doesn't get better its time for a different pump anyhoo.
Been reading up on pumps, a lot of yota guys swap to a chevy 'P' pump or the Saginaw 'TC'. Both of which are pretty rare in remote res and serpentine. Probably not really worth messing with when the TG 1650psi pump is bolt on for under $200...
Installed a sweet spare parts storage box, everything but a front axle housing in there ;D
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/toy/IMG_1306.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/toy/IMG_1304.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/toy/IMG_1310.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/toy/IMG_1311.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/toy/IMG_1313.jpg)
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Getting her ready for Jareds?
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oh shes ready! I give the PS pump 20 minutes ;D
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i probably have 3 or 4 Ppumps laying around that are fine, in serp or vbelt....as for remote, that takes two clamps and a piece of radiator hose....
a Van LS pump is also remote FYI,
Any TBI chevy motor will be serp, probably the vans would be remote.
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when is jareds?
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when is jareds?
This coming Saturday, 8/25. 2pm start I do believe.
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I dont believe your invited ;D
I looked at the astros at JJ, they were remote res but had 3 ports pumps, looked like vaccume assist or something? What are you chevy guys running the P pump with attached res?
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Mine has 3 hoses, pressure return and return for the hydroboost brakes. I just capped the third one.
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Ahhhh
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ya same on a lot of pumps with a third return, just cap them.
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Bled it out good, she sounds much better
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This one runs better
(http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/226282_425493247493306_316971534_n.jpg)
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Looks like its got better tires too
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Nick and the ZJ should come
he is grandfathered in be cause he is such a purple panzy
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Wheres the moderator when you need him :D
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ran fine all day at the picnic ::)
steering still sucks... time for some more chevy parts
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ill look in the pile, im sure i have a vbelt chevy pump i have no use for any more
-
or if you want M4 gnomes could quote a quick bracket and fill install :)
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also noticed this thing seems to have an awful lot of tire scrub going in a straight line down the road :o
-
welded diffs and squarwampers?
-
I suppose. Seems excessive for straight line tho lol
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You got a picture of this setup?
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I battled with air entering my system for a long time until I swapped out my stock res.
-
my land rover res is bad ass!
-
Euro trash! Lol
-
i think the toy pump just doesn't have the cahones
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I suppose I should ebay a ECU for this hog, I'm out of ideas...
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Ridin on 20's son!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/10/29/etadaden.jpg)
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(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/toy/604133_10152279360195691_1843038162_n.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/toy/61429_10152279360310691_1041952450_n.jpg)
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Super Flexy though! ^-^
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all my tires are now dead flat except for the hawg ???
-
My swampers don't like the cold very much either.
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Its just funny how they randomly go flat, always different one, different time periods lol
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is M4wd open for a chevy PS pump install this weekend?
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not looking good.
Have a CJ to finish and 2 trucks to work on- meh
not sure if ill be back in town buy saturday or sunday either.
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oki doki. Did you do anything with my tire or was i suppose to talk to jared?
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i dismounted it that was all i did. i can leave it outside
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Got an ecu off ebay, got a O2 sensor code right off the bat. It has a resistance of 9 and spec is 5.1-6.3 @ 63F. Of course there was not one in stock withing 50 miles of my house. Ran it Saturday and it just stumbled every time I touched the gas. Put the old ecu back in and it ran better but still stumbling anytime there was load on it. No code with original ecu. Guess I'll try replacing the O2 but I have no faith that will do anything. Getting real sick of this thing >:(
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What's going on in the shop the next couple days? I got to do a full fluid chance in the Titan. Heat would be more preferred than several inches of snow haha.
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next week would be better, shop is full and i need to get a TJ in tomorrow or friday-
also NEED to put the front shaft back in the ZJ
snow sucks in a heated shop- water. Everywhere.
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Got a new o2 for this sucker. Its going to run like a top when I install it! guaranteed! yep!
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did you get the old one out, ha
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oh yeah, bung and all lol
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Just called on a sweet $100 V-plow...sold this morning :(
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so seriously what do I do with this POS?
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insure it?
go through those tests that Eddie outlined, and if it's not them it's an ICM.
assume worst case - is it worth that cost and effort? Can you skip to the endgame and swap ICMs with anyone/anything?
otherwise, apparently there are $800 5.3 Chevy trucks out there that run and drive but break in half. complete swap, and scrap/sell things to have a $350 or less running LM7, 4L60E, 231.
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the chevy solution would cause pain with the $$ into toyota stuff already without expensive adaptors.
seems like you should find a rotted 500$ toyota truck that runs and just swap or look into stand alone ECM or propane or something if you cant figure it out. Tough thing to test though.
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The rotten Toyotas don't seem to go for $500, unless that's changed.
the money into Toy stuff is mostly recoverable by selling a geared case, I'd expect?
standalone or propane may be the ticket though, I like those ideas.
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problem with propane is you need a good ignition system though i am clue less about yota sparks
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Good luck finding a rotton yota for under 3 grand. It fucking boggles my mind.
I have no idea about half the things fast eddie is talking about. I have exhausted my personal engine knowledge. Everything that I have not changed yet is big money. I don't know anyone around with a yota to swap shit with.
If I knew I could spend $300 and fix it, sure. But, at his point I'm not randomly throwing any more money at this engine. I'd like to go auto anyway and I can get a decent chunk of change for my tcase. On the other hand I also really hate to spend time to swap something into this package lol but I certainly don't have the cash to start over.
I dont think it needs a 5.3 though lol. maybe 4.3? zuk motor?
-
find a running 4.3 4x4 s10 thats rotted in half
the last 2wd i drove on to the trailer i paid 150$ for lol
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I really wish I could swap an ICM, that would really put the nail in the coffin that its not an 10 minute bolt on fix...
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what about taking it to a dealer? is there some magic scan tool?
???
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Not that I know of. But that brings up another issue, it will run fine all day long in the garage. Started her up Saturday in 3 cranks and that was with the gas shut off!
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this thing works just fine to last me a couple more years, this is very agravating!!!! >:( >:( >:(
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Bring it over we can smash it up with the big bore
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give chadly a 100$ and some converters to figure it out
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Josh was having some miscellaneous electrical issues in his jeep, all kinds of lights and codes, replaced his battery and it fixed everything. He said you ever think about that in the yota? Which made me think of all the weird shit the cherokee was doing when the battery was in there, and the nuclear meltdown of the alternator when this whole situation started... Very curious now
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Started this thing up yesterday, mowed the lawn, and she was dieseling when I finished. I wiggled and jiggled and fucked with every thing, no change. Key cycle...fine 😑
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Those motors came carb'd, right? How hard would a carb/propane conversion be?
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Bring it over we can smash it up with the big bore
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It's efi
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Right, so throw a carb on it, propane and done? Idk about ignition though
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Sorry, probably a useless suggestion you would have considered by now if it was viable hahaha
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ya need good ignition system.
i could make that motor run on pane in 20 minutes if the ignition system is good...
-
To make it carbed or propane it needs a distributor from a 22r, and I would assume some type of intake manifold as well.
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Yeah it's not that easy.
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I did pull plug wires, they were all firing.
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I'm pretty convinced its fuel related. I suppose I should inspect the injectors.
-
put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail.
swap injectors from a happy truck if they're not a Delphi item.
what's in your ignition system? ICM, coil, distrib, plugs? I'm sure you've already done the tuneup items. Should be able to throw a generic coil in there for cheap. that'd leave the ICM which I thought was already suspect #1
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all brandy new except the ICM which is a whole lot of money
fuel pressure kit from LCE has come down in price quite a bit since last year, guess its time to get it http://www.lceperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-Kit-22RE-Fuel-rail-p/2019128.htm
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ductaping a mixer to the TB and unpluging the injectors will make it run fine temporarly
-
might have to plug 4 dummy injectors to show good resistance on the harness
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$20 to UPS ground that thing ummmmm no
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duct tape :o
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$20 to UPS ground that thing ummmmm no
what the hell are they smoking???
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I have a fuel pressure gauge that you can borrow. It's a tester kind that hoes on the Schrader valve.
-
Is that standard? I remember reading that something that you need some odd sized fittings and adaptes. I read it on pirate it must be true!
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I have some adapters with it.........?????????????/
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I'll give it a whirl. Yesterday was actually the first time it did it at home, so that probably wont happen again haha.
BTW last Thursday was the one year anniversary of this thing running like shit ::)
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any local wheeling going on soon?
I need to run this hog again after it actually ran last time out, just to confirm it is still a pile.
Matt may have parts I can swap about a month ago or so and I have completely failed on following up on that ???
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yup....
You got the FLX picnic coming up at Jared's Aug 10th I think.
-
my pile is broke
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I wouldn't mind driving my junker around some.
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I have got to fix this thing or do some thing with...
Lets review
Symptoms:
Diesels randomly, key cycle its back for an undetermined amount of time. Seems more prevalent uphill.
Non fixes:
swapped fuel pump
full tune up + coil
some sensor in the front I forgot temp sensor (was a code)
swapped ecu
new o2 (was and still is a code with new ecu)
no visible wiring issues
have a JY regulator but I cant get the old one off
To check:
1. oil in the distributor? I have no idea what this means along with 85% or what fasteddie posted on flx, but I can check lol
2. fuel pressure? Gauge requires some sort of banjo T adapter fitting thing. no longer available from toyota. LCE sells a kit w gauge for $60. I need a man to come over and swap that regulator ::). Is there some sort of obd1 scangauge thingymabober out there?
3. Spark? I'll get a checker
4. vacuum? I suppose I could just replace all the hose for like $5
5. propane swap is expensive anyway you look at it, plus I dont want it.
anything theories?
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gauges on fuel and vacuum would be most useful next steps.
I bet we can junkyard something for much less than $60 to get on the fuel system. If we can makes a 1/8NPT home somewhere I have the 60psi mech gauge on a 24-36" lead from Smike that was on dumpbus. if dumpbus parts don't make it run right NOTHING can.
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this is apparently the only way to do it without doing some drilling and tapping. Keep in mind every bolt on this engine is perma rusted :-\
Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit 22RE
Ever wonder if the fuel regulator is doing its job? Not sure if your getting the right fuel pressure at the fuel rail? The new fuel gauge kit is the answer to those questions. This kit will replace the banjo bolt on the cold start injector with a new stainless steel bolt that accepts a 1/8 NPT gauge that comes in this kit. Included in this kit is the copper crush washers, elbow to face gauge forward, and 0-100 PSI Silicone Filled for Vibration Dampening Gauge that is 1.5".
(http://www.lcengineering.com/LCNewsletter/2012/february/febimages/Efi-Gauge-kit-installed.jpg)
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suppose I could check injectosr too, just pull the connector off and see if change right?
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wh wait
cold start injector? huh?
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and I need this to happen in a spot where it wont roll away and hope it diesels long enough that I can perform these many tests fml ::)
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That banjo bolt is probably $15-20. Remember my other thread looking for the compression fitting.
Get a size and thread pitch? I'll probably just order one, maybe I can find a vendor that has what we both need.
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wh wait
cold start injector? huh?
On older fuel injected engines, a separate "cold start" injector is used to spray additional fuel into the intake manifold when a cold engine is first started
fawkin noob :D
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the banjo bolt itself can be had for $30 shipped
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wh wait
cold start injector? huh?
On older fuel injected engines, a separate "cold start" injector is used to spray additional fuel into the intake manifold when a cold engine is first started
fawkin noob :D
Cold start injectors have been my life for the last 4 years..... that is not a cold start injector, that's an emmissions nightmare
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having my own problems id start with the fuel pressure .is it possible some of that foam got by the filter and clogged somewhere
-
this pops up every once in a while http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16288
but the consensus seems to be buy it from LCE cause you wont find elsewhere
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having my own problems id start with the fuel pressure .is it possible some of that foam got by the filter and clogged somewhere
doubt it, it ran for a year after that and my filter screen is like 0.0001 microns
-
Some indicators of a fuel related problem would be:
• Lack of power going uphill or when pulling a load
That me!!!
-
could be too much fuel, ya i think i fuel pressure gage would be a good idea
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Load this and the Dakota on the trailer and scrap them and then take that money to the casino and double it!!
-
I think nick has a solid point there.
Tapatalking in traffic
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going to order the gauge, i dont have time to dick around finding adapters. plus I could probably sell it for at least $50 if needed lol
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Any rubber line you can tie into,after promo the one at advance was like $10 and about $10 in fittings
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i want to see pressure in the rail
-
drill a hole and tap a 1/8NPT in that sucker
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too much work
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bring me your rail i can do it in 16 seconds
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I doubt its removable lol
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i think you need to book some m4 time on this hog for diagnostic work
-
let me know whens good to drop it off haha
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when matts pile is out
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http://www.rc4x4.org/rcforum/index.php?topic=20545.0
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I don't know if Eric has all the censors off the motor or not.
-
She got her first oil change last night! synthetic.
I found a plug wire with like a quarter of the terminal broke off. Its still pretty secure and I gave it a good jiggling with no issues, going to grab a set today for the hell of it though.
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$10 rebate its my lucky day!
-
http://rochester.craigslist.org/pts/4162215444.html
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Way too much tread for me :)
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You could use this
http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/4178999720.html
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You'd think some selling that could do better than "1985 is the last year that Toyota made the front differential axel."
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
-
Axel Rose?
I'd sell my sole for that thing!
-
My boss at American Axle called me out big time once for spelling Axel Rose on a report once lol
-
As an axle manufacturer, I could see how that might be a pet peeve hahaha :o
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Oh no
-
http://rochester.craigslist.org/tld/4245185260.html
does this still need to be tested on this hawg? maybe this has the adapter you need.
-
Or a propane system!
-
i can make that hawg run on propane in 20 minutes with a roll of duct tape and 6 hose clamps.
IFF the ignition system works....
-
I'm leaning more towards ignition than fuel. But its worth a shot.
-
solution
http://elmira.craigslist.org/cto/4284455525.html
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why is a toy cab on a chevy frame a toy?
seems decent for the price if it's as claimed.
-
That does not look like a solution
-
I need to make an M4 appt to do something with this hawg after big dogs!
It shall run, or we shall remove the fuel cell, seats, axles, tcase and scrap it :o
-
ls motor and get a divorce Toy case
-
no such thing!
-
any yotas at J&J? I cant find my stock alternator plug...
-
no such thing!
Is too a such thing. Adapters are made for this, I had one in Atom.
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find one
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Thats different than no such thing............
-
it was much easier description for non-yota people :P
-
never have seen a yota in j/j
-
they had a 3.0 once.
ebay $8 free shipping, problem solved!
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And they are very expensive when you do find them, I think mine was $350ish used. Then a dual case adapter, and lower gear set. could have almost bought an atlas
-
exacery. and $350 was cheap!
-
http://rochester.craigslist.org/pts/4467101819.html
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Broken birfield replaced. Alternator disconnection test complete, no change.
-
fuel pressre gauge kit ordered http://www.lceperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Gauge-Kit-22RE-Fuel-rail-p/2019128.htm
Fawking $33 for 3 day shipping good lord :o Chase is going to grandmas this weekend, so saturday may be my one and only day to work on the pile this summer lol
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Wont 3 day put you at monday? Overnite Thursday, 2-day Friday. 3-day monday
-
scheduled for saturday delivery
-
better call and confirm with a monkey!
-
Must be Fedex......
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Too late now. LCE is pretty legit.
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Reportedly on my porch. I guess thats what you get when you pay for good shipping!
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pines clean up ready!
-
is that going down tomorrow?
-
ya
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in what time? bbq afterwords?
-
probably like 10, food will be necessary.
im gona call charlie after work today
list and thread on FLX
http://www.fingerlakes4x4.org/modules/smf/index.php?topic=3450.0
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Just for you mark!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/01/apazenug.jpg)
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Yea! 8)
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Is tjis beast running better now?
-
Fuel pressure gauge confirmed it's a fuel delivery issue. Filter was cleaned several times yesterday and it was good after each.
Tank needs to be drained and cleaned.
Tapatalking in traffic
-
having my own problems id start with the fuel pressure .is it possible some of that foam got by the filter and clogged somewhere
lol
-
I didn't disagree. Should of actually executed a year ago.
-
Friday night I took everything off from the rail back and blew it out. Found random stuff in the filter, dirt metal shavings. I know we checked all this in VA at time of original issue, don't get it... But happy it's running again anyways.
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Way back with the first cell I had that the foam melted the filter would plug and it would die and that was it, funny how different the symptoms were.
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Sweet. Congrats on finding the cause.
Now let's go wheeling.
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Fo real! After putting a few miles on it, it is in need of some tlc lol
-
Awesome!!
-
fuel cell drained and removed
-
Clean and re-install or replace?
-
clean
-
Drive shafts are next. Need to get the set of round ones I have and get them to M4 for an HD re-tubing. These square units are really affecting high speed runs down the road at WP lol.
-
you ever fix your completly wrong front pinion angle with a front CV... thats where your vibes are comming from
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Negative, I dont have the means to remove the axle. It was actually not all that bad until last weekend, I think a ujoint in the rear is shot, the non-existent carrier bearing prolly not helping.
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Need to do something like this
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/05/yme8u5e5.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/05/a7e5ude2.jpg)
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There's a carrier bearing in that thing?
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sweet welds right there :o
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I'm lost... What do those mounts accomplish?
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Ohhhh is that leaf mount for the front axle? To kick the pinion angle up.
...caster?
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Yeah, you can't rotate and keep a ubolt on the dif side, it's not round.
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he has a CV at the case, and 25 degrees at the diff unjoint
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Prolly more like 45 lol. What if I just put a reg joint in?
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reg joint would get case and diff closer to sync, if it will take the current angles
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Whats up with my steering. steering wheel turns and wheels dont. Pump shitting the bed?
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steering valve shitting the bed. if it was fluid starved but otherwise good it should be hard to turn.
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orbital should be the only good part of the steering system...
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wrong ram, shaft is way to big. i suspect air in lines also.
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Maybe it's pissed that you took it out of the garage? LOL
my CJ steering would get cranky after sitting for long periods. But always seems to clear it self after some driving.
Is it worth fluid replacement?
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wrong ram, shaft is way to big. i suspect air in lines also.
You told me to get that one lol. Idk its been bleed pretty thoroughly. This is a new symtom, before it just wouldn't turn at low rpms.
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2X6X1.25 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES I believe this is the unit I have
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/2X6X1-25-DA-HYD-CYL-SWIVEL-EYES-9-7259-6.axd
1.25 seems to be pretty common shaft size at 2". What were the single ended ones you guys were running? or were then 2.5"
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Trapped air would surely do it.
Raise the front tires off the ground. Bring it lock to lock 3-4 times every time you're out in the garage over a week. Ought to bring any air out easily.
Tapatalking in traffic
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got bleed air at the ram with that ram up, the volume of his cylindar is way to small
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I will try it again
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What did/are you guys running for SE cylinders? 2.5 x 1.25?
There only like $60 I'll get another and dump this one lol
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a non swivel eye cylinder would also semi-fix my tie rod problem.
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2" but not one with a 1.75" shaft
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http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/hydraulic-cylinder-2-bore-x-8-stroke
2" bore, 1.25" shaft (which seams even too big what i recal)
i have a used one on the shelf
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thats what I have 2" X 1.25"...
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correction- the TSC ram is 2" bore 1 1/8"shaft- i thought mine was more like a 3/4 - 1" shaft
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I'll measure mine tonight to double check. Thats all they have on the surplus website in 6" stroke unless they discontinued it...
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ill look at what i have on the shelf too.
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thats what I have 2" X 1.25"...
Confirmed
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2"X x 1.056' shaft is on my shelf
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weird, it seems the 1" shaft has been abandon by all.
Whats on your shelf and 8" throw? For sale?
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Fuel put back together. Pump is silent, 40 psi at the rail.
I think my u-joint noise was the carrier bearing guard that was smooshed up tight against the flange.
Did a steering inspection, I see a couple potential issues. Cooler height may have been above the pump, moved. cylinder is mounted with the ports off the back, potential for air? I don't however see any "frothiness" in the reservoir that would indicate air in system... Does whine pretty bad though.
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I gots a 1.75 8" I would like to get rid of. Then I can get a 1.5 6" on the jk.
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assist cylinder is different than full hydro cylinder correct?
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usually run a smaller cyl in assist.
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No mechanical difference?
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none.
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It's a push/pull double acting in both cases (or a double ended )but still same plumbing and mechanics. Lower volume coming out if a steering box hence smaller is needed - and there's already assist in the box too.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Gotcha
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/25/y9epe6y7.jpg)
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Well that lasted about 15 minutes
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/11/be7u3ure.jpg)
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Wtf?
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Jared rocks were too big
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took a step down from proven material- did you expect much else lol
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I expected more then that lol. I wasn't even bound up.
I've been running the trail gear "better then stock" since it was built, which were dirt cheap like $60. I guess those held up pretty good. Trail-gear has discontinued them since bought Longfield.
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[pirate naysayers]
cant run tires that big on stock axles
[/pirate naysayers]
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cant take the power of the 22re
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you cant run toyota axles with anything bigger than a 29" according to pirate lol
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I can get Longfield 27 spline birfield for $120 a piece. Probably the way I'll go, should last a year or two.
Longfield 30 spline kit $700 isn't in this summers budget... would have to think real hard about those or time-for-tons at the point
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i got 4.56 chevy tons and 42 TSLs would work real good on that hawg
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damn. I thought this was a tried and true stock axle machine
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$700 in longs, or same in axles, just need to fill em with 5.38s.
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5.38's, add 5" to short side, new bearings, new seals, new trunnions, 6-stud knuckles & arms, arp studs, drive flanges, a gusset here a gusset there...
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Why do you need to add 5" to short side? Need room for leaf mount?
I have reused every bearing my axles came with, made sure they were in good shape of course. Stock knuckles are holding up fine with assist. Flanges/outers might be good down the road... But it took me a whole season to break a stock hub with double your horsepower :)
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go low steer and you'd never break a knuckle. build a ram guard/ mount so it can be reasonably cut off later when do knuckles arms and high steer.
ditto on reusing bearings on a wheeler.
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I misunderstood your post. Thats the list for where I'm sure I'd end up with s yota axle
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I was wondering about trunions on a 60...
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Have a narrow (63.5") GM14 bolt if needed...
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I thought "burn it" was coming for sure
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It is too epic now to burn it. Overcame the mystery engine issue. It's all good now!
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Stock one tons will be fine.
Lord knows there is enough spare parts kicking around this group.
I've been nursing my High steer design for quite a while at slow speeds.
Would you even need to re gear?
Whats in your Yota axles now?
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4.10 lower would be better
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Shafts re-installed. That last one killed the splines on the inner.
Added 2qts in front diff, of 1.7 quart capacity ::)
Ready for soft core wheeling!
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Always allow for leakage.
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I didn't drain it is the issue at hand lol
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power steering re-bled per howe's instructions, no difference
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What's the symptom?
Tapatalking in traffic
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incorrect ram, and air in ram ::)
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Steering wheel turns, wheels dont
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Sounds more like air in steering valve ;)
Tapatalking in traffic
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Or you broke the ram. That's what mine did.
Broke the valve off the end of the shaft
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Thinking about selling this pile to fund a bro-lite. Think it would get more use with my schedule.
It seems to be worth very little looking on pirate ::). Nothing comparable on RC.
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just make sure you say what gears are in the front rear if you post it on RC!
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you just cant let that go can you lol
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you just cant let that go can you lol
NO!!!! I understand things have different names in different parts of the country, i.e. pop/soda.. but at least use a word that does not have a direct correlation to the thing that is being described!
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What's your price?
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dont know yet, need to look around
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4k to the right person is probably about it
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I was thinking about 3 lol. Id be real happy with 4.
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I was thinking about 3 lol. Id be real happy with 4.
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I got more money parting out the J truck. And it was a turn key wheeler...
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IMO you'll get more opportunities for seat time in the Yota than a Bro per year.
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The saga continues...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/06/3289b7c2112b8966ceb662c2b6cc60b5.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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aw comon what did you do- is that the tire i fixed? it was good for like 2 months out back
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yeah idk lol
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did you leave it at the pressure i put in it, or did you lower pressure
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just put it on, saw it was flat yesterday. I was like no way! lol
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thats messed up
you ride is cursed. it was outside full for like 2 months
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I know
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are you sure chase didn't get a hold of a valve core tool!?!
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nah he just like to "bam" things with his hammer
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I did it :-\
http://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/5214965336.html
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boo/ yay
swingset looks sweet.
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First time its left the garage this year
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I will guess what the first question will be:
"How much do you think it will take to get street legal again" lol
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Idiot #1:
Hey can you call it txt me, id like to come check out the Toyota
that was the entire email.
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WELL did you try phoning the truck to have it text him?
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I did but the truck didn't have his number.
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its hard to even justify emailing back people like that...
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I did but the truck didn't have his number.
I figured as much.
shame.
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2 no shows this weekend!
Was just thinking, I have title but never registered, how do I transfer? Isn't that "floating the title"?
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Signed by you? Need a new title from NYS if they want one. Or sell with bill of sale only
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2 no shows this weekend!
Was just thinking, I have title but never registered, how do I transfer? Isn't that "floating the title"?
yes it is floating.
If only the seller signed it and you did not, there's no evidence of the float other than what you just confessed to here :)
If I want to put my Grand Cherokee on the road after the Jetta rots away this winter, I think I have to deal with some of that. I think there's some extra gibbrish on the back of the title.
I'm titling my white Eagle this week so I can get the buyer a clean title. Sucks, but there's no practical way around it at all with a PA title since the fuckers are notarized requiring buyer and seller signatures at time of notary, and also a notarized buyer signature on the front. Hopefully the 3 year gap in there doesn't bite anything. I assume after letting Gus through that NYS really only cares about the $$ as long as it passes scrutiny of the clerk who takes the paperwork.
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*signed by sellar but NOT dated (yet).
DMV can reject if title and sale receipt is dated older than 30 days.
get the title signed and a receipt without a date on it and with buyer name blank! #1 rule when POS buying!
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I may have issues with the 30 day thing on both of these! ruh roh.
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I think it is signed and dated. I planned on throwing some 33's on there and cruising it for a year or so... then the 38's happened lol
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omg the people :facepalm:
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Well I've been told i can consider truck and trailer sold lol
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Sounds promising actually, talked to the guy for awhile yesterday, we'll see...
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haha, must be the real deal!
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Well is it gone?
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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excuse after excuse why he cant make it now. He IS buying it though, as soon as he can get here lol.
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o god, the pain. he probably will show up with an s10 to tow it away, and only bring 100$ but want to paypal you the rest when is mothers check comes in
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well...
Dude that was for sure buying it is MIA
Another asked me a shitload of dumb questions and asked for pictures of this and that and then decided it was "too much of a project" for him
I was offered a trade for an 86 camaro
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haha
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Did you check prices on 86 camaros? Might be an easier sale and smaller to store. Or might not.
Tapatalking in traffic
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poor decision. wait it our keep it. find a place to stick it if room is needed for the winter
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tarp it and put it in the yard
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no camaro lol
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posted on RC
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title on the way, no issues with 2009 paperwork
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ha! figures they wouldnt know there own laws!
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Still haven't seen titles for VW or Eagle, I think that's beet 4-5 weeks now. I'd bet rejections would come sooner than titles.
I did notice that 30 day thing on the NY title as I was signing away roadblock and mule. I'd not noticed before.
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its like signatures- what is the point.
should all be done online, scanned in done
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yup.
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interested in seats if part out status occurs
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I wont part it out, no time. Trade you for the audi though haha
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I would actually have considered that but it's gone
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So you're looking for 3000?
-Close too, but I'll work with ya a bit.
Would you consider 2000?
-Is that close to 3000?
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that's how i roll on cl. sometimes it works some times it doesn't....never hurts me to ask
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so did you take the offer?
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my policy is the price is the price posted on the add until you are here looking at it in person with cash in hand and then maybe we deal.
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95% of the people who try to dicker over the phone never show up anyway...
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so did you take the offer?
No, not giving it away
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Title obtained. Now I need a lucky someone to sign it hahaha
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did you pay any extra to expedite? I still don't have Jetta or while Eagle, and I think you applied after I did. Interesting.
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No. I did 3 weeks ago. It is title only if that makes a difference.
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its NYS some take 3 weeks some take 6 months. i haven't figured out any rhyme or reason to it. I didn't know there was an expedite option for new title. just for replacement title to same address/owner.
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Hmm, I think you're right on that, Mike.
Maybe in-state/out-state differences depending on what verifications take place? I've not tracked it because I've never cared.
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9/16 is when I did mine. In my mailbox today. Issue date is 11/2, postmarked 11/6.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Heard this went down the road
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Shes gone :(
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Younger kid with an obs cummins bought truck and trailer.
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Just saw it behind Dodge heading towards Buffalo on 90
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:'(
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spotted
http://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/5387694690.html
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oh shit!
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Is He going to daily the toy?
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I know Chris, the guy that bought it. He can't hold on to anything for more than 3 months at a time. Has a YJ that he was doing a complete body off "restoration" of that's already up for sale. Don't be surprised to see the toy for sale come spring. Last year a lone, he's had 4 different tow rigs, 2 YJs, a JK, an FJ80 land cruiser, an XJ, and now the toy truck.
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Good luck selling it lol
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/25/e88ba39293ed564c5be2f88c09ccea7b.jpg)
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That didn't take long
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk
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5k?
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lol good luck with that
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He's even using your photos, says it runs great ready to go
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I realized after the trailer is included but still.
I was really tempted to comment on the pic I took at Big Dogs a couple years ago and claim it haha
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It should be ready to go.
That is a sweet pic!
He did put a good set of boggers on it, not a bad asking price with the trailer.
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He did put a good set of boggers on it, not a bad asking price with the trailer.
(http://i.imgur.com/UL9sNxX.jpg)
Well, they were on it.
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That dude makes moves lol
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this thing gets passed around more then taylor swift
http://elmira.craigslist.org/cto/5741774756.html
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What a sweet machine!
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don't remember the front tube work looking like that
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Thats new. The driver door has been straightened out too.
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Passed around again...
1992 toyota rock crawler - $1600 (Knoxville pa)
https://elmira.craigslist.org/cto/5860625267.html
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solid deal!
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damn I'm tempted to buy it back lol
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damn I'm tempted to buy it back lol
You won't! Haha
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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you're right lol
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He won't do it, it's Chris' Yota after all since he did put a fuel filter in it.
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still kicking
https://www.facebook.com/343509365756785/videos/983527648421617/
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what a machine!