M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: M4wdFab on April 01, 2021, 02:20:25 PM
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emptied out this thing, hit it with a back back leaf blower.
put a battery in it and bottle fed brake clean to it. cranked right over and runs mint.
not sure what the plan is with it. needs a bit
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im half tempted to dig though the shop and make a parts pile to see if i can get this hawg operational.
im thinking i have used misc junk:
limit straps
shocks
steering tie rod
steering drag link
driveshaft parts most
single ended ram for assist tap or full hydro
fuel pump / filter
harnesses
floor tin
suspention bolts / hardware
need to source:
fuel pressure regulator filter for returnless ZJ style
hydro hoses / orbital
calipers
long side front shaft to eliminate CAD
8lug tires/wheels
clean out fuel cell or procure ZJ tank / fuel cell
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I have SRW rollers if needed
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Chip sent me a pic of this thing, it looks like it needs some help. ;D
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yeah... picts?
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summer salt lol
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Pic I was sent
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Super dirty but I don’t think the tube work is bad. Didn’t look at the welds or tie ins though.
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was this Nick's dad's ZJ?
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Yeah she has been holding down the floor in the barn for a while. I'm glad it started right up
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summer salt lol
I did not make the connection till I knew it was nicks dad's and smike english he means somersault
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summer salt lol
I did not make the connection till I knew it was nicks dad's and smike english he means somersault
Now it's clear! Thx for the translation Troy!
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I was trying to link it to salt road. Now all is clear!
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salt road i didnt even catch that but ill take it haha
ya ryans old ZJ, Larr took a tumble at big dawgs and then Nick and Keith did some work on it, i might have even gone out a time or two to lend some procrastination supervising on it at some point haha
not sure what the plan is, but its landed here for its next storage life.
i think ill order a fuel filter regulator and throw one of the 19$ ebay fuel pumps on that cell after a good cleaning, see if i can hawg a drive shaft up and maybe a steering link to get it moving and steering on its own. then see how she looks.
to bad i purged all my old 39s on H2s this thing needs some rubber then it would really have some ambition
i see you can get orbitals on ebay for about 110$ so thats probably the route to go instead of hack and tap and assist with the box, not sure on that. hydro to me so much easier.
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took a ride on the scissor lift today and pillaged some parts from storage bins
found some shocks, limit straps, some drive shaft parts, a fuel pump, almost enough 5pt harness parts
ordered a chang wong 0-140psi fuel regulator for 17$ and took a peep at the fuel cell. black foam but looks clean inside. needs a return port and some AN8 to barb fittings.
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pulled foam from fuel cell and cleaned that out. fuel was red, thinking kerosene was in it or off road diesel?
Added a bulkhead fitting with a rollover vent i had. ordered 8AN to 3/8ths barb fittings.
Thinking im going to get a fuel pump, front drive shaft shortened and cobbled steering on this hawg to get her moving on her own at least.
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I think I have some 5pt harness hardware laying around if you need
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happy to take donations or old junk for this unit
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ebay fuel pressure regulator was a joke, leaks from every interface, doesnt regulate pressure at all.
dead headed plumbed in a buggy pump and got it running by key (fuel pump heats up quick)
looked at drive shafts and started on steering.
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front dana60 ford low pinion ball joint axle
yoke is for 1330 "big cap".
i don't understand how the ujoint is retained in the yoke side to side? is there some ford magic hidden from the internet? i see summit has girdle caps with tabs but they are to replace ujoint ubolts- this yoke has threaded holes for straps? its like i need a strap with a tab on the side to hold the caps centered? doesn't appear to have any tabs broken off the yoke
anyone kknow whats up?
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If it's low pinion and driver drop, it's likely a Dodge 2nd gen axle. Ford never did LP and ball joint that I'm aware of.
I believe that style yoke uses circlips on the caps that retain them against the inside of the yoke. I vaguely remember something like that with my 12 valve. Weird design.
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ah, i get it. scrapped at some goo and i guess there is a machined surface there
this looks to fit the bill with the measurements in the notes
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-372-Universal-Joint/dp/B009HQJGVW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=moog+372&qid=1618932775&sr=8-1
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dodge, ok sure. that was throwing me too no wonder ha
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Yeah i think that was a dodge axle with Ford outers
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Its not ford lol.
look like dodge ram dana 60 via CAD
the u-joint have clips to keep it retained side to side, like axle shaft wheel u-joints
OEM is "Detroit 7290", per RockAuto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4937553&cc=1095904&jsn=556
edit: others posted faster than me. lol
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ya im needing a conversion joint for the front to just use the ZJ shaft after i shorten it and sleeve it with 2" 120wall DOM
Moog 372 is the right 1310 to 1330 big cap with internal C clips i found what i need to be least amount of pain and investemnt. not worth a drive to ridge road to pay 2$ more than amazon will have one to my door in 2 days.
sorry not a ford or dodge front end expert i just remember nick saying something about Ford.
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looks like this is the kit at first glance to loose the CAD
not bad for the shaft, seal, block of plate 215$
https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-YA-W26030-Differential/dp/B00EHN4K2A/ref=asc_df_B00EHN4K2A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=398653795866&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16923301591102631205&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005637&hvtargid=pla-638155603616&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=83499389406&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=398653795866&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16923301591102631205&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005637&hvtargid=pla-638155603616
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Could just gut the housing and lock the collar over both shafts and be done for free for a bit.
I honestly don’t know how often those break.
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I did some research on CAD deletion on my truck a while ago and found that 99-04 Ford D50/D60 passenger side inner, 78-79 Ford D60 driver side inner are very close to correct length, close enough that I was willing try them if I didn't buy Yukon's full delete kit.
D50 use 30 spline if you're not going to swap out side gears from 30 to 35 spline in whatever carrier it have. problem is the passenger side inner axle shaft seal. I have not had my dodge d60's carrier out for several years now, cannot recall what it look like on inside on what off-the-shelf seal possibly will work to keep the cost down.
edit: that yukon's inner axle shaft seal is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. more than what I'll want to pay for them. about $100 each. https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=12135
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I have 2 of those dodge axles on the shelf. mule (95 v10 srw) and dumpbus (97 cummins dually). both should be full of lube so no easier than what's under the jeep now.
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i only looked because the CAD shares about a 1" collar and just looks stupid weak
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this hawg drove to its parking spot the other day after a few hours here and there on the lift
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the front calipers on this unit would be dodge or ford?
they are 2 piston and use the slide in wedge retainers
rear axle has a 94 date, so maybe 94-95 dodge 2500?
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think i figured it out and ordered some hardware and pads for front brakes 94 F250. calipers present look usable. flap wheel should service the rotors present. adapt ZJ flex lines to ford parts.
run new rear axle hard lines, leave rear drums.
milled out donated 1410 yoke for ubolts today, need to find a ZJ slip yoke and make a rear shaft.
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put some sweet rough country XJ shocks on this hawg and a nice exhaust tip.
full welded the rear axle. i didnt realized it was only tac'd together until today haha!
looks good with 40s
i thought it might be like Attica level wheeling with the steering, but no go. turns OK to the right, only turns about half way to the left. not sure the issue but i think i needs some hydro parts soon.
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Awesome! Glad it is getting worked on
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brake pads and caliper retainer clips came in yesterday. boy is that ford stuff stupid. at least Chevy has a bolt holding their stuff in.
brake lines run and she is a 2-3 pump wonder. (all bleeders seized so did what i could do)
bumpers and sliders capped.
some sledge work up front to help the 40s live
working on floor tin and rear fender tin now (reclaimed van tin)
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finished up floors and some rear wheel well work after a good vacuum job.
started looking at hydro parts
have a list written on the hood, its actually not too long.
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Going to do assist or full hydro?
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would be open to either if any parts are donated.
probably just go single ended ram and full hydro. the steering on it now that i cobbed together with the dodge stuff is worthless for adding assist to, so it needs to be replaced either way.
looks like surplus gets 54$ for a 2.5"x10" single ended dual acting ram.
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the track bar at the axle has about 3/8" of play i might try to eliminate and maybe the steering will get closer to tolerable.
i know that and the front CAD delete expense will be the point where some money will need to be spent, right now im in about 2 ujoints and some brake pads haha
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boo, front is 3.54 gears rear is 4.10
thats annoying
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dana70 sucks for aftermarket. looks like only "thick" 4.56 gears exist and they are expensive.
rock auto has some 5.86 gears for like 140$ a set, but carriers are expensive. cant seem to find a carrier spacer either.
going 3.54 in the rear to match would be the least painful and least cost, but thats useless.
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hmm actually looks like a factory non thick 4.10 gear set would work for just the front and be the least amount of pain, weld the front carrier up.
i think its a 30 spline D60 carrier, not like all our other 35 spline inner D60's?
what a disaster to try and make these work for a rock crawler- i guess that answers why you never see dodge stuff under things
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35 spline side gears are a direct swap in. I took one out of a Ford D60 into my truck’s carrier when I upgrade to 35 spline & delete CAD. FWIW
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i was trying to get away with out upgrading shafts. i guess i need to do some research and decided how much i want to spend.
i think rock auto has a 4.10 gear set for the front (need to verify pinion spline) for 136$
could do that and be done. i have enough install kit left overs i could patch it in fine
otherwise its carriers, shafts, gear sets front and rear and pushing 1500 in parts im sure, where do you stop.
5 point cam lock harnesses came in today, and need to pick up an XJ tank and J truck full hydro parts so that will be some major items kicked off the hit list
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man this thing is pushing panty dropper status
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Had an early CJ5 tailgate laying around, and just about fit perfect so made some latches.
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ordered new rear wheel cylinders and 2 new front ford calipers so i can get bleeders working and get brakes back.
also have a 4.10 gear set and pinion seal on the way for the front.
i figure if i wheel this thing enough ill be mad at the 4.10s right around the time the Cad or 30 spline stuff blows up in the front, and then it will be time for reagear and shafts, or send it before then.
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waiting on gears and brake upgrade parts.
fuel tank in, front fenders trimmed and mounted.
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Panty dropper status achieved
XJ oem tank & pump fixed the fuel system problem?
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to be determined- it didnt like the OEM ZJ fuel pump power wires hooked to it, not enough voltage and would start to sputter after a few seconds. seemed to shop run fine with a battery charger powering pump so i used the OEM wires to power a relay that switched Clean full power to pump. seemed all good but did stall twice when just driving it around easy (no oil in diffs right now) might be fine after some learn time.
2 instances so far the alarm/interlock has kicked in and dissaslowed the engine to run. (no doors so cant reset with key, and disconnecting the battery doesn't seem to fix. also tried grounding out the purple with yellow tracer wire to send "unlock" status to BCM but so much of the harness was hacked and nothing on the gage cluster works- so not sure the BCM is even active. both times eventually after 20-30 attempts it has magically started and then fine rest of day. not sure what i did to cause it or reset it. (awesome)
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swapped on two new front ford calipers and replaced one rear wheel cylinder. At least D70 is external drums and everything was in great easy serviceable condition!
easy gravity bleed and brakes all good now!
couple laps around the property and it seems pretty good!
front gear set should be here this week also.
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front 4.10 gears roughed in tonight just need to weld up the diff. i know ill be kicking my self later for welding it with 30 spine spiders but not much choice right now.
hopefully it will last a bit before it needs upgrades. then it will be sad face when i try to get chromo shafts and need a new carrier bah!
picked up some full hydro parts from Gif so after i grab some hoses i should have enough to make this thing full hydro single ended.
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Front gears in and axle buttoned up
90% of full hydro in for the moving parts, need to tweek stuff. not sure my double ended heim thing will work. it needs to flop the tie rod a little if your pivot points at the ram are as tight as i made them. Heim balls would be nice there but meh.
all stuff from old race car parts
ended up sleeving a piece of 1.75 with 1.5 for the tie rod, meh
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Who's rig is this now?
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it was Ryans ZJ and Nick bought, Nicks dad rolled it. Nick and Keith did some tube work and started the axle swap.
Nick brought it over as it was in the way and most likey going to get scapped after sitting for years.
Ill finish it and either wheel it a bit this summer or see if anyone in the club wants a new wheeler. Already had people ask for it when its done lol.
need to figure out tire situation though, i dont have a spare set of 40s
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Oh man. Shane Martin needs this thing bad.
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shes a single ended ram farm tractor driver now!
regrouped today and got the magic angles on the ram and tie rod so everything is happy with no play or flop.
trip to TSC for some on the shelf fittings and hoses and all good after some bleeding.
pretty much ready for a shake down minus some zip ties and maybe some storage features
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worked on some storage and details today. needs fuel and some tail tools. might need to see if it fits in my enclosed though- i think i kinda forgot its 5" wider than the buggy
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Wider than 572? I'm surprised!
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572 is like 83" wide
this thing is like 88" with Dodge axles.
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:o
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loaded. two skinnies on the front and it fits in the wheel wells chassis still to wide to fit past trailer shelves so it is where it is. hopefully the trailer wont be noticeable towing different with out as much pin weight. meh.
ready to roll minus cooler and clothes bag.
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over all this thing was sweet this weekend for easy blues and some fun wheeling. gearing seems fine for now on easy blacks also but i was being super nice to it as front end is super stock weak stuff.
next upgrades
rear HD cover
needs 2x faster orbital
much more inner fender trimming needed on front wheel wells
rough country XJ dumpster shocks SUCK. was more tolerable after letting some air out day2 meh
front axle shafts upgrade
gears upgrades
maybe rear 231 SYE upgrade
othewise not bad for what i have into it.
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1100 to amazon gets you
35 spline D60 spool
35 spine 4340 Dodge inners with CAD delete kit
35 spline 4340 Ford 11 3/8" outer stubs
35 spline Revolution gear drive slugs
two spl55 non gresable D60 spicer ujoints
i guess i should look up 5.38 gears and rear disk kit and just be done with this thing haha
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have carts built for painful gear swaps with the D70 just need to verify splines on some things and if there is some other rear axle damage i need to know about after this weekend.
5.86 gears from rock auto looks about to be the least amount of pain.
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The D70U most likely have 32 spline axle shafts.
Dodge D80’s 35 spline axle shafts is a direct bolt in after you put a 35 spline carrier in it.
From what it’s worth
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ya, rock auto suggested 32 spline. i was planning to buy a 4.56 carrier and 32 spline spiders so i could weld up a spool to hold the new 5.86 gears.
i bet the stock D70 shafts and 32 spline is fine for 40s and 4.0l
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Crazy idea but as you have axles that can take much lower ratio, why not go with either 6.17 or 7.17?
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pinions tend to get small and weak at those ratios
i guess i didnt mention my carts had 5.86 gears with a 231 should be plenty fine. it was almost tolerable with 4.10s
im still not sure i want to dump 2k into this thing, i should probably look whats making all the noise out back first.
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confirmed rear end noise was my failure at welding the limited slip into a spool. i was pretty aggressive, im surprised it failed so soon. went 3X this time but really there is no good way sadly.
needs a new diff cover. cant find the one brett gave me, and i might recall i tried it on the buggy and it leaked so bad i scrapped it now that i think about it.
even a stock front D60 cover would be better than nothing if anyone has one laying around.
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needs a new diff cover. cant find the one brett gave me, and i might recall i tried it on the buggy and it leaked so bad i scrapped it now that i think about it.
:'(
I think it's the same one he modified and used it to make the installation guide.
http://www.jantz4x4.com/jantz.php?p=manual&pro=girdle&mid=jgi
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i guess diff cover prices have doubled like everything else, so i pulled the torn D70 cover out of the scrap pile, banged on it, welded it, made a 1/4" half ring for it and stuck some 1/4" and 3/8" flat bar on it. should be good for some more rocks. Grabbing an orbital that should be 2x faster from Matt tomorrow.
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crane dont care. picks up either end no problem
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swapped on a different orbital and now its about 4 turns lock to lock which over runs the pump volume at idel if you try to crank the wheel fast. I think its tolerable though and way better any driving speed.
got a front grill put on today also. probably ready for another wreck wheel trip if i ignore front tire clearance and some rotational clunk i hear now in low range.
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cut more unibody and tin out of the front inner fenders and pounded more room for the 40s.
almost looked at starting an engine / trans pan skid which will be needed for any real wheeling.
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o man these are tempting!
some baldy swampers would fit just pufect
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1187619305085846/
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Get your groover out and put some edges back on them!
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And you don't have to do it in your kitchen with a grinder any more!
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Bald swampers at zero psi can't be beat
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16.5s though… useless without beadlocks
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39 reds and steel beadlocks on this guy today
anyone want it?
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broke down the one Krawler that was going flat in 3 days after bubbles showed 3-4 spots on inner bead and leaky valve stem. new valve stem and dumped in a gallon of slime. see if that improves.
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broke down the one Krawler that was going flat in 3 days after bubbles showed 3-4 spots on inner bead and leaky valve stem. new valve stem and dumped in a gallon of slime. see if that improves.
Mine were leaking really bad, 9+ spots just on the outside. I used gemplers ultra seal stuff and it's been holding pressure for a month now.
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3rd time mowing with a pinhole and slime, my mower tube finally sealed up.
I got some rim dressing to help the next time I have some bead corrosion. Maybe I’ll be able to avoid a few tubes.
Hope it works.
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had an awesome day of wheeling and was loving this thing.
we stopped, then i took off, and #6 blew out the side of the block. chunks of cam shaft, connecting rod, lifters, and block casting chunks on the ground under jeep. restarted it and drove back to camp on 5 cylinders. it started today and drove into the barn also to its resting spot.
bah!
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In my years, I’ve seen many driveline parts scattered but this would be an impressive first for including camshaft sections!
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I commented on FB too but I think the cam was just collateral damage from the rod ejection. I hope you take the head off just as a postmortem inspection... I'm curious what you'll see
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im sure any evidence is destroyed as to what locked the piston
sure wasn't lack of oil or coolant, as it still runs fine with no noises minus the block hole
o well. Probably stealing the 4.0 sitting on chips floor that came out of Pauls XJ that got scrapped years ago and has been sitting when i feal like dealing with it
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bad motor pulled and all the ZJ and auto bits transferred over to the XJ manual 4.0 donar motor, ready to stick back in tomorrow.
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Lives on, seems successful swap, drove out and parked on far side of barn ready to wheel. new mild wherring noise when rev in park but not in neutral- wondering if it has something to do with me deleting the factory trans cooler setup/check valve for a hayden HD cooler. lines were shot, leaking, and was easier to delete along with dead AC parts up front.
fresh coolant and oil. has one krawler that leaks down over 3+days
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tore down old motor.
5&6 pushrods, cam lobes, lifters in the pan
rotatating assembly 1-5 fine, pistion 6 smooth and free.
head gasket looks mint, no cylendar wall damage anywhere, no head issues
all i can guess is injector #6 stuck open and hydro locked, failed connecting rod and the rest was collateral damage kaboom. Ill pull the injectors out and bench test when i get a chance. too bad i dont have a lab to take them too anymore. bah
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two laps around the track today and all good.
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fuel pump no go in this hawg and 2 tires down at brolite test day. need to get on it, would like to maybe take to PA one more time this year
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so drug this thing out to look at it.
aired up tires, no power going to fuel pump.
bipassed, no fire. brake clean no fire.
lots of bad info on jeep forum in circles but one post led me to unplug dist pickup and see if change. noticed with the dist pickup unplugged now my fuel pump worked as it should, but no fire.
swapped another dist pickup and bam fired. that was dumb luck on that one.
should be wreck wheelable. i guess i should order a dist pickup and crank sensor to add to the trailer 4.0 box.
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I can't believe this hasn't sold...
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me either, o well. it will sit in the barn for a rainy day.
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it pops up on my FBM all the time
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Doesn't come up for me at all, even if I search specifically for jeep
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I still got the title for it i seen it a couple weeks ago when I was going through files. If you are ever out on the east side I can meet up
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Doesn't come up for me at all, even if I search specifically for jeep
user error
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ha, your guys traffic and searching must have bumped it up in the algorithm- got 3 reach outs this morning on it with BS trade offers, but at least its something lol
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I'd be all over it if I was the least bit intersted in wheeling lol.
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fired right up, 42's installed ready to wheel or sell.