M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: M4wdFab on January 05, 2012, 09:37:47 PM
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nice truck chassis on a budget build!
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more in random order
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update:i worked on this pile tonight
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swhweet where are the pics!
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Ready for big dogs? :)
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did you sit in it an make Vroom Vroom nosies?
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no,no seats yet.im only at the stand and look at it and say"this is gonna be schweet"stage
so i just picked up a output yoke from the jy,its a longer version than the original should i cut this thing shorter,and does 2" of spline engagement sound enough or should it be going on more?
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i believe mine was cut, making it only have like .5" slip and be closest to the trans to be the strongest
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for trans or tcase? I'm assuming trans slip yoke, that sounds awful shallow, usually they're more like 6" long-ish with a good 3-4" of spline engagement aren't they? Granted I don't know GM stuff...
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i think i cut about an 1" off mine. its alot smaller looking that the dakota junk in the scrap pile, also a "short" shaft output/.
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I got a van with a good v8 drivetrain
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already have a drivetrain,chevy tbi350,th400,np205, just need a 1330/1350 ujoint 2-5' 1"1/4" tube and a pipe bender to put it all together
rear 4 link is done
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need some pictures!
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fine
i goofed around with a hood option as well
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Ice Breaker ready? ;D
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no but prolly will be main jambo or summer fling ready.i have some money burnin a hole in my pocket
parts list:
radiator
seats
tires
fuel cell
steering colum
shifter
guages
headers
started linking the front the other day space is tight
this thing needs a name as well
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bone crusher!
no wait, that was the last one....
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I have a good s10 rad from smike that didn't work for me, but prob too small for 350?
I have my old 12 gal cell too
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I think rywan has some columns?
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this thing needs a name as well
New Guy's ride?
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Haha everclear
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ya s10 4.3 too small radiator
looks like you mounted the motor 6-8" too low maybe that is what its tight in the front?
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6-8" are you nuts man.i think you forget im a lot shorter than you and tony hawk,i cant be making no funky hood to try and see over.im mocking it at extreme full bump so ive got the truss a 1" away from the crank pulley,its tight but everything will fit
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both our truss are infront of the crank, you doing it wrong :)
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well if anything then i can move the engine back,im at like 118" wheelbase i dont think i wanna go any longer
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anyone know any summit discount codes?
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summit has zero codes, they eliminated that last year sometime.... too much lost money from stupid codes
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that figures.found a %5 off 4wheelparts, takes $20 off a set of corbeaus but they only offer black/yellow, wtf?
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Quadratech is way lowest prices on corbeaus
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quadratec sucks,$50 shipping and i like sites that you can use paypal
while you guys are goofin around in va ive gotten serious and this bitch is linked front and back.now hurry up and get back i need ryan to sell me a suspension
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Nice work!!
Paying with PayPal is weird.
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pay pal is awesome when you have people paying you with paypal.
i have 3.5 shocks for sale now
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Haha. I have the other .5 of a shock.
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I also have 2 orbital steering colums and a lot of 2.5" exhaust bends and straight tubing. I have lots for sale, gotta start saving for RCQ.
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what are TBI headers worth to you? my old exhaust wont help you with your diff on the wrong side :)
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i dont understand,what does the diff have anything to do with it,dont both sides hug the block
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ya i was asking what $$ are the headers worth to you, but mentioning that the exhaust (ypipe/ect) wouldnt be use ful
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o i c.uhh i dont know what is it worth to you for me to take them off your shop floor
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probably worth like 50$ to me what are they like 90-100$ new?
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i dont think those headers will work,my upper arms are to close to the pan
engine and tranny are fully mounted bout to head to the junkyard for parts
very close to pulling the trigger on these,any thoughts?
http://www.racingseatscheap.com/procar-terrain.html
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Arms and those headers sure can get cozy.
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You can get 2 corbeaus for 50 more
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I can get fairly decent pricing on mastercraft I just found out.....
Paid about 400 ea for mine.....
I think the rubicon were significantly cheaper..
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400 is stupid
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erok, hopefully your better at electric than math,its $80 more. these seats are all made by 1 company your only buying the name aqnd that isnt worth $80 more to me
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Have you been snorting concrete dust?
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did you get shocked by 1.21 gigawatts
guess who has a mounted drivetrain
started some toob work as well
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Ypur doing it wrong, hit up a pirate vendor or Here's 400 shipped right here.
http://thmotorsports.com/i-168434.aspx?utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm_medium=CSE&utm_content=168434NOFITMENT&utm_campaign=GoogleShoppingSeanNOFITMENT
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400 is stupid
cant put a $$ on comfort and safety...
Baja RS @ 400 is a great price
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trigger pulled on 2 of these.after a 15% discount $167 cheaper than corbeau
http://www.jcwhitney.com/garage-pro-off-road-racing-seats/p2011342.jcwx?skuId=353154&filterid=b1604c3267u0j1
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with my savings on the seats im ready to buy a radiator,i think this is what i need for front mounted
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Chevy-Universal-Radiators,3557.html
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ready to place an order and came across this,should i pick it up or is it a piece of shat?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage-Sale-RCI-26-Gallon-Fuel-Cell,52778.html
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Should be good. Koh legal too :)
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thats what i was thinking.order placed,i have a busy weekend
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Koh legal is critical. Git r done for RCQ! ;)
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seats arrived and are mounted,gonna squeak by tech with 4-5" of helmet clearance when the time comes
fuel cell and radiator will be here fri.smike you still have the hardlines that come out the throttlebody, mine are cut just after the nut and where did you say you found cheap fuel line?
what guage steel should i use for a front and rear firewall,surplus has some 16+18 drops that could work?
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ill see if i ca find the inlet and outlet lines for the TBI. Arie was best for PFI line and Return line. 16 or 18 is fine for firewalls
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you're gonna race? I didn't know you were even considering. awesome.
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rc series,rcq,=no.line mt. i think would be better suited for me
parts came today,cant believe i got -$60off a fuel cell for some dinged edges,5 minutes with some sheet metal vice grips all fixed
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Noice
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ill see if i ca find the inlet and outlet lines for the TBI. Arie was best for PFI line and Return line. 16 or 18 is fine for firewalls
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TPI-TBI-FUEL-LINE-ADAPTER-CORVETTE-CAMARO-AN-6-FITTINGS-AVAILABLE-IN-STAINLESS-/320911723293?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab7d44b1d&vxp=mtr
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hmmm,as much as i like the the look and cleanliness af an and steel braided line i dont think its in the budget,unless someone knows of a place with good prices
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its all about fuel rated rubber!
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hmmm,as much as i like the the look and cleanliness af an and steel braided line i dont think its in the budget,unless someone knows of a place with good prices
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220985
You want PTFE.
It only takes a bit of ethanol do damage rubber. Teflon is impervious to it.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l264/jeepgif/General_Properties.jpg)
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Read this:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1101_performance_fuel_hoses/viewall.html
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Pretty interesting.
I think the new spec rubber (R9) is what it was all about when I was searching for replacement diesel line.
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we use superthane for everything, its majic
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That chart stuff is way over my head.you gotta understand I stack rocks for a living.
So all things aside what is my best affordable way to go for fuel line
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I've been running low pressure rubber gas for 4 years, I know it's not right but it's cheap
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tell arie to get you 15' of MFI line (high pressure) and 15' of low pressure return line, price was a 1/3 anywhere else i could find
advance wanted like 4.50$ a foot pauls price stupid
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toyota system is probably 40-50psi, so that Erok, is dumb on your part.
troys system is 14-16psi, so it probably would be fine
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So how much is 30 feet of Fuel injection rated rubber line + clamps + TBI inlet / outlet fittings going to cost?
PTFE stuff is $2.80 / ft fittings are $5 each.
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it was less than half that cost per foot and gator clamps are 89cents
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it was less than half that cost per foot and gator clamps are 89cents
Sold!
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I should redo my supply
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M4 price might be different though, you guys will have to put in a quote to arie :)
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this weekend was a fail for fabbing,surplus was closed saturday >:(
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fuel cell mounted,fan and shroud installed,beginnings of dash and center started
really hope these tires come through
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=14428904&posted=1#post14428904
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I have 5 Iroks with DIY beadlocks I would sell you. :)
All almost new, just a few miles on them. $1900. :o
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i have 5 42 TSLs for sale also
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tempting but a little out of my price range and 42's are too big
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wish this thing was done already
how does this deal sound?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1072314
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well i just bought some tires,talked him down a little and trading him my dana300 setup + some cash,tires are on 32 bolt bead locks, figure ill sell my h1's now and ill almost break even
tonights progress
saw this guy leaving surplus today,hes got like 30pcs. of 1/2"x1/2" bar on his homemade pipe roof rack,not a single tie down just a whole roll of shrink wrap,in his broken spanish/english i swear he said hes driving to buffalo
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I might be interested in a set of h1s pending price and condition.
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Sounds like a good deal
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saturdays progress
tire,rims aquired
firewall ,floor pans started
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Lookin good
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looking good troy, what was the story on the MTRs, i am not on the cool kids forum any more.
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found them on pirate for $900 bought them for $550+ my dana300,kid lives in by cayuga lake and is a cny'er,set of 5 40"old style mtr's on 32 bolt beadlocks except the 5th is just a normal rim ,brand new but has a patch other 4 have about 1/2" of trad, im very happy with them :)
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cool!
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Been thinking aboot this thing today.think I'm gonna throw the2.0's on to keep progress moving,if I do I think ill have just another $1k to sink in this thing,if I can stay on buet I forsee a aug. Shakedddddown run happening
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this weekends progress
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someone should work on this for me,i pay in everclear and witty compliments
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You've pretty much got tomorrow to make that August shakedown. GO.
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this thing needs a name as well
New Guy's ride?
Ha Ha. Funniest wheeling trip ever.
Smike still have that mix tape in his buggy?
It gets all the chix! ???
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New guys thread been hijacked
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It died! That happens.
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troy is really milking this job!
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hows that saying go, work gets in the way of things i rather be doing
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id like to thank the troops for giving me the day off to work on this pig.radiator and fan mounted,front shocks mounted and some interior work
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got some more work done today thanks to the rain.rear shocks mounted,spare tie down,little more interior work done
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finally got these bad boys mounted,what a pain in the dick
when no one has a 2 9/16" socket to sell you guess you gotta make your own
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what size pillow block should i get for 2 peice shaft?
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2" on ebay for 26$ shipped
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ordered
looking at fuel pumps,ppl seem to like carter better than airtex, found this unit
http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Carter-P74222-Electric-Fuel-Pump-/76725335
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I have beat that shat out of my airtex racing- it works.
i do like the ends on that carter pump.
that said, if there durability is anything like the carter diesel lift pumps, id ignore them as an option.
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I am using airtex in my 3rd buggy, no problems with any of them, Plus they are available at any parts store.
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idk not quite there always boils down to cost for me
rear disc brakes done\
what and where should i be doing to make some driveshafts
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all 1350's and nothing less
get some yokes / shafts from yard and hack them together unbalanced rather than balenced smaller shat.
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hack it together like smike said. Hell, run square shit. You're not racing. And if you change your mind on that you can put some good shat together and you'll have spares that were cheap.
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hack it together like smike said. Hell, run square shit. You're not racing. And if you change your mind on that you can put some good shat together and you'll have spares that were cheap.
I still run a square shaft in the front of the J truck. All 1350 joints. Never had a failure. And if you saw the beat down I put on it last weekend.... :o
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i still have the square shafts from the mj ,have to redo one end from 1310 to 1350.i guess my real ? though is if im looking for a splined front what vehicle should i look for with 1350's at both ends?
parts ordered,engine will run by end of week or at least i hope with this engine
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newer 3/4 and 1t front stuff (usually CV at one end), most rear fullsize stuff.
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I'm gonna try and hit the jy this weekend and try to find some yikes.
I ordered some 3/8ths aluminum fuel line,do you need a special flare tool for that or can you use a brake line flare tool?
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Good luck flaring Al without cracking it.
I'm ignorant - maybe it's easier than I expect.
Tapatalking in traffic
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thats what I would think as well...
i would think you would need to anneal it first...
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SMike and I were thinking of hitting J&J on Saturday. Is that where you were going to go?
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Cmon can't be that bad,all the cool kids do it right.but at only 14 psi you think just a couple hose clamps would be fine?
I went to j&j last week during the rain storm,no shafts laying around they scrap them.was thinking of wilberts new place all those vehicles are on stands and nice gravel open till 4 on sat
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Hmmm
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How do you like your non load reaction orbital? I'm thinking of buying the same for mine.
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i have no idea what your talking about,i went to that forklift repair on mt read,asked the guy if he had any orbitals and he pulled this char lynn p.o.s out of a pile and said here you go
according to to 10 youtube videos i watched flaring aluminium just as easy as brake lines
fuel pump installed and began to plumb, switch panel for push button start and battery disconnect installed
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Sweet going to be ready for 6/22 shake down
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Noice!
I love bein' wrong sometimes
Tapatalking in traffic
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Man,where can you get an fittings in this town.need 2 an-8 1 an-10 with barb ends to connect fuel hose
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Power drives or something like that by chips old shop.
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i have no idea what your talking about,i went to that forklift repair on mt read,asked the guy if he had any orbitals and he pulled this char lynn p.o.s out of a pile and said here you go
according to to 10 youtube videos i watched flaring aluminium just as easy as brake lines
fuel pump installed and began to plumb, switch panel for push button start and battery disconnect installed
That's awesome!
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Good call on powerdrives had to order a couple of things ,got fuel hose for same price as big box stores
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i had my hydraulic lines made there. Defiantly wasn't cheap but I set the four required items on the counter and said connect these and it was done lol
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thanks to smike and the free kitchen hauler recycled 10-3 i now have a 15' power cord and can weld anywhere inside and outside my garage.
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started thinking about the wiring and this is the shematic i came up with,will this work,should i run a single wire from the alt to the battery instead?
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With that schematic the engine (and all accessories) will run off the alt after the master disco is killed.
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Yep, that's how the toyota rolls!
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So are you saying I should run a 10 ga. Wire directly from the alt to the battery?
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Thats how I did it.
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If you want the master disco to kill everything while the motor is running that's how you have to do it. or from the alt to the batt side of the kill switch. or better yet get a dual throw kill switch - but that's a topic I've not looked into.
I don't like that the alternator charge wire stays hot even with the kill killed, but it is what it is...
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anyone know where to find a weld up kit similar to this but with just a bunch of random bends and stuff
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8007/overview/
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I just bought a bunch of 180s from summit and chopped them up
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i have a set of huggers ill sell for 56$ if they work for you
also have a down and cross over. i think your 3 link is tight though.
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Is there anything I have to do to the fuel cell or is it ready to pour gas in and go
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shoot an air gun in it to see if any foam balls or flash comes out.
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so annoyed right now,realized i have 3 broken header bolts to get out,tried to get the engine running,it will rn and start on starting fluid but die after thinking the computer isnt getting power not getting any voltage on the injectors
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after staring at pinouts for hours i found out im looking at car pinouts and not a truck like mine is from and found the crank signal wire, +12v wire later and this
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10200479115513199&set=vb.1016524954&type=2&theater
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no progress made way too f'in hot in the garage
found these 205 yokes for $48, but shipping $30 FOR THE 3 GONNA CALL SEE IF THEY WILL NEGOTIATE
http://www.discountjeepparts.com/product_info.php/products_id/23477
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anyone know where to find a weld up kit similar to this but with just a bunch of random bends and stuff
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h8007/overview/
I used this place
http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com/servlet/the-Mandrel-Bends-cln-Aluminized-Steel-cln-2.5-Inch-Tubing/Categories
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good prices, ill save that link!
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fuel pump for the cheap guy
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FUEL-PUMP-INSTALLATION-KIT-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-VARIOUS-E2000-E7TZ9C407BA/111124259171?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D54748407020164830%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D310699348704%26
crosss to
AIRTEX # E2000
MOTORCRAFT # PF4
FORD # E7TZ9C407BA
DELPHI # FE0306
CARTER # P74028
BOSCH # 69100
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thats pretty cheap,mine was $40 after discounts
so ready for this to be done,after much deliberation this thing is now a 3link with pan hard up front.
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exhaust done, brakes done,coolers mounted and plumbed
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hydros hook up ,it would steer too if i had done more than just tack welded the ram mount, popped off during bleeding,DOH!
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un eventful morning going to airgas and refusing to fill smikes nitro can just because it says jackson on it,a-holes
eventually make it to jackson ,shocks charged ,finished up steering,relocated knock sensor,made a cowl and started getting the hood to fit. talked to bronce graveyard today said yokes should be on their way to my house next wed.
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Trade A pair of 4" bumps for your spare orbital? Text me a pic of it if you can.
Saw your pics on Facebook looks good. Are you going to be ready for Rausch in August?
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i could do that trade,i need your # again got a new phone.if the yokes get here when they say they do a aug trip is definate
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585-978-4540
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no tracking #from bronco graveyard yet,a aug trip is looking pretty bleak atm
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did you call?
they emailed me right away and said they were out of stock, but gave me a back order date they beat in the end
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tracking # received,be here tuesday
i called once i saw it was backordered,instead of being dropshipped from the mannie it musta been sent to them first
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cool
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put a rear shaft in last night,drove it around the yard today.stuttering pretty bad under full throttle, double checked firing order had 2 wires mixed up,runs better but still stuttering under w/o, timing?i dont know. idle isnt steady kinda revs up and down.good leak from tailshaft gotta replace the bushing, good leak from front output shaft not sure what has to be done for that. gotta readjust tranny shifter have no park, brakes good but a little soft,need a steering resevoir starving a little on full lock,
other to do:
harnesses
skid plate
front shaft and crossmember
roofbars
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Chk your static timing at idle. Coolant temp sensor can do weird shit. so can the knock sensor. Sounds familiar to early 571 issues.
Tapatalking in traffic
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smike gave me a new coolant sensor that i put in,knock sensor is the same location as 571,if its timing id need help with that ,dont know anything about how to set timing
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TBI motors do there own thing on timing- could be O2 issue, TPS, or Map issue. is the fuel pressure good and return line flowing back to cell? Pickup in distributor also rots out and that can mess shat up
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Did some googling,thought it might be open vacuum but plugged those no change.gonna grab a in line fuel guage and swap map sensors when I get home.it backfires through the tbi does that mean its getting too much fuel, leaky injector or plugged regulator?
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My guess is timing if its backfiring thru the intake
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did you pull the distributor out at all or is it how it was?
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Never touched it,put new plugs and wires,that's it
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stick your finger over spark plug hole1 till you feel pressure and it stops while rotating crank, stop rotating crank
pull the dist cap and make sure rotor points near 1
mark on balancer should be around 1:00 when this occurs.
check 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, 2 fire order
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got home changed the map sensor ,no change.looked at the dist cap it was cracked on one side,pulled it off everything looked pretty beat so went and got a new one, no change. located tdc, tried it three times and this is where it lands,if you cant tell it lands on the 1st notch in
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So according to that notch I'm at 10 deg before ,fresh ain't it suppose to 0?
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im so f'in lost.timing gun procured,im thinking the balancer musta slipped cause at 0 deg this thing will barely start let alone run.even if i turn the distributor till it runs decent the injectors are just pouring gas on the butterflies it backfires then they just become flame throwers.
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Flame throwers!!! Yes
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quiet you!
new information,apparently you have to unplug a brown/black wire first if you mess with the timing,will give it a shot tomorrow if that doesnt help prolly should look into a new iac or tps.dont mind me just thinking out loud here
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so sick of this thing,another weekend wasted.went to j&j yesterday pulled a shatload of sensors even got a regulator and injectors.ive replaced all the sensors to no avail,different regulator and injectors ran worse if at all, only things i havnt replaced is 02 sensor which should be fine since it was on 571,distributor and coil pack,knock sensor.i got a tbi gasket kit and replaced everything.and now the battery keeps dying,i took it in last week they tested it and it was fine so i bring the alt in and thats fine too,wtf >:(. ive read it could be ground issues too so i cleaned things up added more grounds went through my wiring to find any loose connections.if this thing isnt running right after sun this shit is getting pulled out and a trusty ford 351 is going in ,fuck this chevy shat
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http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=345737#post345737
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http://winaldl.joby.se/
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my 1st problem is the directions i followed didnt mention much of the aldl when i weeded the harness so it got cut out(i thought it was from the steering column)which isnt a big deal i left enough wire i could get the plug and wire it back in.
my 2nd problem, even if iwire it back in 99% of the guys ive read experiencing the same symptoms never get a cel
3rd problem is it literally can be anything, bad fuel pump,clogged filter,map,cts,tps,02 sensor,ecu,vacuum leak,bad wires cap or plugs,bad magnets in the dist,bad injectors or regulator,bad grounds or altenator,iac,
my symptoms,runs fine when cold no stumbles,wot sounds mint,once warm still runs fine at idle,still not sure whether the injectors should be a pulsing spray or constant ,mine are constant.once you put it in gear and hit the gas falls right on its face and may die ,or it may stumble back,backfiring through the tbi doesnt seem to happen much anymore
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Did you check the air in the tires?
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Welcome to the last year and a half of my life :/
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think i just found the problem,got a fuel pressure guage on it,idles at 9-10 drops to 5 or less under load.other news its now 4wd got a front shaft in
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should be 14 ish, thats about what the regulator in in the pod should be... whats the fuel pressure with pump on and motor off?
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The feed side pressure should be about 13psi and should not change with rpm or load. The return should be near 0psi.
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i dont remember it reading any pressure with just key on, already in the box ready to be returned, never got over 10psi, its definately defective
this is the one i got
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_18770076-P_x_x?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-enhancedRM-_-18770076&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=18770076&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=&gclid=CO-rzJzqmbkCFYSf4Aodxl8A-g
1 review a guy uses it for a tbi
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that is your problem sir, wrong pump
you need much more pressure than that to feed the TBI
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your kidding, isnt a tbi max pressue 14psi?
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E2000 Fuel Pump- 100psi/40gph -45psi/25gph
$35 on egay
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is this the one smike found
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Inline-External-Mount-Fuel-Pump-/360694797311?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53fb15d3ff&vxp=mtr
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your kidding, isnt a tbi max pressue 14psi?
you need >>14psi because the regular bleeds at 14psi....
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this is what 572 ran all weekend on no issues
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111124259171?item=111124259171&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr
Matts is in the shop if you want to grab it and order another one
i tapped the end out to 1/8 NPT (for a hose barb) instead of the banjo bolt thing it game with
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Get an E2000 from Autozone tomorrow, use a promo code on line and pick up in store, be don ein 10 minutes and not wait 5 days for something shipped to you. It worth the extra $12.
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this is what 572 ran all weekend on no issues
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111124259171?item=111124259171&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr
Matts is in the shop if you want to grab it and order another one
i tapped the end out to 1/8 NPT (for a hose barb) instead of the banjo bolt thing it game with
Thats what my buggy has. I used swagelok to stainless hardline and -6 AN Braided Stainless Steel Fuel Line Hose
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thanks, ordered. will see how long it takes to get here would like to be ready for test run this weekend, finished some to do over the weekend harnesses will be here tomorrow
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ours were here in 3 days, but like i said one at the shop matt wont need for a whille
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Welp,put the new pump in holding steady at 14 psi,back it out of the garage then floored it no hesitation under load,back up again and floor it 10 ft later it dies and smoke starts pouring out of the ignition coil,fml
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Hey! I know what the problem is this time!
Tapatalking in traffic
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100 of those at J/J make sure your alternator isnt smoked or over charging
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meh picked new one up for 20 beans,did a couple laps around the yard runs pretty good, died once out of a dozen times at full throttle. think it needs more atf seems to wind up and take off,gotta drop the t-c a little bolt is getting hung up on the cross member and wont let me shift,definately need a power steering rezy overflowing when warmed up
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should over flow when warm, but will overflow when ram is fully compressed
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when is the shake down run before rausch? talk you your buddy about work land? need it hawged somewhere this weekend?
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not to bad of a maiden run,1st thing to do fix leaks,2 affix roof tin better,3 hook up altenator properly,4 bleed radiator
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she hawgs pretty good. couple bugs.
where is the night jumps of 572. need limit straps installed stat
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(http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/91_4runer_4x4/GMtoToyota.jpg)
now i need a pigtail
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didn't burn, did it?
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Just need power to s and f.
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I picked up 2 volts running S to the battery
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we tried that, no go
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We tried running hot to both at the same time?
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yes, i did
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should i try wire it seperately like in the pic,i dont understand how jeff only has 1 wire
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one wire alt is a different setup, it's got a diode inside or somesuch to keep from drawing down the battery
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New alt in and pigtail from j&j,charging like a champ.tranny seals and t-c seals in so far no leakies,started putting in more roof tabs in.radiator was pretty much empty filled up let it run all kinds of bubbles ,ready for another shakedown
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You coming to Rausch?
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somebody needs to hold down the other half of my trailer...
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somebody needs to hold down the other half of my trailer...
if your leaving fri afternoon/night im in if not ,im out
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Matt leaving Friday night I think
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You have an open seat if you go Troy?
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Yeah, it'll be Friday departure for me.
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sweeeeet
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Yeah, it'll be Friday departure for me.
Bringing Dakota or being a passenger?
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Sweet I'm in then,buggy passenger seat is dependant on Dakota status I guess
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Dakota is done. I should have a px seat tho. Maybe.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Anyone need a trailer spot?
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All these big trailers and no one to fill them... :'(
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If my dad was in better shape....
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Hmm,1st thing I should start with is getting some jy coils and ground the tach wire and see if I can replicate the problem,if it doesn't ill have to work from there.from some quick reading could be dizzy isn't grounded or to many volts to the coil
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That sounds like a good place to start. Pocket full of coils for $20 instead of $40 at AZ. Yuck! $20 from a UCI-supplied house was much better.
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Now that I think of it,when it conked out on cemetary I thought I heard some arching smike I think heard it too so I'm guessing its %95 the problem
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i saw majic smoke on crank, that wire was welded to the chassis, thats got to be the prob
find a tac at J&J wile your at it, Matt needs that 14 yoke too!
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Hmm,1st thing I should start with is getting some jy coils and ground the tach wire and see if I can replicate the problem,if it doesn't ill have to work from there.from some quick reading could be dizzy isn't grounded or to many volts to the coil
I would shy away from distructive testing.
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Swapped in a new pigtail with better pin relocation,confirmed my alt is dead and defective replaced at advance works good now,returned overpriced coil to advance and swapped in my fancy msd
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Time to test!!
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added some lb's to this pig and made an actual hood
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Nice!
How much extra weight?
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Troy, do you have a part number for the rear axle brake hoses from caliper to hard line? Seemed like the perfect length...
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no, i just browsed advances shelves till i found what i wanted
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dont forget fix rear ride height
fix rear pinion angle
fix rear ds yoke / ujoint poped cap
spare tire
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added more shiny metal tonight
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Now that I think of it mark, Smike or Spencer found those hoses on summit and I just cross referenced what advance carried
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harrison had the look up for like 7$ brake hoses
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This thing pissed me off last night. Finished roof cage work then pulled it ahead to install rear solid cover that's been sitting for 6 months, go to start it up to back in and no start, figured I ran it out of gas went and got a couple gallons still no start, an hour later determined but came loose on power dist block and fired right up
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Skinny on this weekend, good 2 days of wheeling little issues like loose cooler line drained Trans to the point forward momentum was stopped, nut off the + side of volt meter fell off and falling wire arched on engine temp sender and melted in half, increase of nitro in front shocks caused the ujoint to self clearance till caps said goodbye, rear hubs are leaky leaky, dirty fuel filter caused some issues
This thing is now known as the Troy machine
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new gauges and some spare parts ordered
talk of big dogs main jambo was talked about
to do list before main jambo:
fix front and rear pinion angles
tree bars
%100 cage work
better tool and part storage
better tire tie down
more oil/tranny pan protection.
missing anything?
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fuses on all loads direct from master hot side
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you owe me a Dring for not tightening mine on the front of my car too!
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halon system?
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Illegal and expensive. Cold fire is it? Blue fire? That's the new stuff.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Made some cockpit changes
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Don't forget the cup holders...
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I need tunes
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fuck rpm's need tunes!
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Rpms ARE tunes.
How's the front driveshaft ujoint angle doing??
Tapatalking in traffic
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prolly same as mine haha
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Rotated the diff and raised the carrier up 1", pretty much a straight line now
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Sweet
Tapatalking in traffic
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you did better than I!
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Cause I got skills yo, doesn't hurt to have mommy staying with me ,UPS my productivity lvl
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doesnt hurt to not have a 2 yr old either!
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If I did mom would take care of that too. My own pets don't love me no more, I come in the house and they are swarmed around her like she's snow white
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Hahaha
Tapatalking in traffic
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got some money to burn and looking at upgrades
whats the concensus on f-o-a's ,found this on ebay and think it sounds decent
http://www.ebay.com/itm/F-O-A-Coilover-OFF-Road-Shocks-King-Fox-/111294705912?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item19e9ae70f8&vxp=mtr
also looking into double ended steering, psc or trail gear? whos got the hookup?
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14" or 16" you looking at
my 2.5" 16"s will be for sale in a couple weeks probabaly
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anything over 16" just seems silly
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I've heard FOA has fixed their stuff... I still wouldn't be caught dead with them. It'll take a lot to get me to look at them as anything but complete garbage.
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If you get a deal on quantity, I'll be needing 14" 2.0 CO...
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IF you are not racing a emulsion is fine, no need for remote res.
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How long do you want to wait, Wingman? I will have 6.5 of those for sale with springs at some point, I do need to move to 2.5s. Not sure if spares are worth anything to you... Not sure on my timing of the move, but I know I need to.
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Of course, I'm not ready yet. Probably in a couple months?
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If you have 2 for sale now mike lmk, I can only afford to do 2 ATM anyhow
Hopefully now no one will have to wait for me to restrap my crap down anymore
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Have at them, Troy. I think I'm going to "spring" for new anyway.
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6.5 or zero. I keep spares on hand.
Tapatalking in traffic
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picked up a bottle of nitro so i dont have to borrow it anymore, but rws wanted $200+ for a 500psi max regulator, anywhere local i can get a more affordable one?
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regulators are not cheap
ebay probably your best best
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i told them what i would use it for and they recommended a psi vs. a flow, im assuming a welder uses a flow, could i use the regulator from my welder to get by or wont that work
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not work.
your welder regulator is like a 2 psi regulator
id get one that does at least 800psi.
mine is 6000psi in / 3000psi out
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nitrogen-Regulator-Gauge-Pressure-Equipment-Brass-Connection-Gauges-Inlet-Outlet-/111452981284?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f31d8824
this isnt terrible, probably be fine and keep you from blowing 600psi goodyear hose when you use mine improperly
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yeah ive seen them on ebay, was hoping to find one local and have in my hands now
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bam, found it $12 cheaper
http://www.amazon.com/Uniweld-RHP400-Nitrogen-Regulator-Connection/dp/B008HQ6GXO/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2NMBKYOEE9QXF&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1409864382&sr=1-1
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Bump
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Race ready!
Tapatalking in traffic
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Nice!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Had, maybe aoaa pothole ready. Bumps installed regulator ordered
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nothing to report, regulator showed up when expected, free 2 day delivery with prime trial
rausch to do list:
fix leaky hubs
make awesome tunes playlist
more skid protection
cup holders
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"Panty Dropping Tune List" ? ???
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Dew & devil springs?
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Mark says he's a married man, no panty dropping music while he's in the car
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;D
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Ha
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uhh, should i buy this, i know i dont need a 10" stroke but what difference would it make?
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/shop-by-brand/psc-mfg/full-hydraulic-cylinders/2-25-x-10-stroke-x-1-125-rod-de-cylinder.html
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A ton more stress on the knuckles if the driver likes to hold the steering wheel at full lock.
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get a 2.5x8
dont forget your need the clevis kit, and we run 4 clamps on all the cars
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uhh, should i buy this, i know i dont need a 10" stroke but what difference would it make?
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/shop-by-brand/psc-mfg/full-hydraulic-cylinders/2-25-x-10-stroke-x-1-125-rod-de-cylinder.html
you would have 23614 lbs of torque at the king pin ( if i did my math right )
so, if your cylinder stroke is longer than the swing of the high steer arms your going to pop the top off your knuckles
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alright, just making sure im not missing out on a killer deal
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when are lbs a unit of torque :o
i am sure troys PS pump might make 200 psi not 2000 8)
limiting spacers could be put on the ram, but seems like a lot of clap trap for the wrong size ram
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woo hoo, picking these bad boys up for $300 for spare parts
https://rochester.craigslist.org/pts/4644409918.html
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woo hoo, picking these bad boys up for $300 for spare parts
https://rochester.craigslist.org/pts/4644409918.html
My buddy will buy the track bar bracket stuff off you if it is complete. Let me know
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Pile of axles acquired
1-d60 front
1-d60 rear
1-d70 rear
all 4:10 gears and full floater, track bar bracket and arm are there can bring to the next meeting
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I've come to learn I suck at axle identifying, both rears are Sterling 10.25 ,stripped one threw it on my trailer along with 5 batteries, 12 rotors and some junk r. $100 back into buggy find.
No major issues at Rausch, throttle cable kinked and broke, replaced with a spare I thankfully had. Sat morning disconnected my Transfer case shifter and manually put it in 4low and this thing became a crawling machine
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Nice
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Got bored this weekend, 10.25 linked, shortened the wheelbase by 5" blah blah
Deceided to be a Guinea pig, ordered 2-2" foa's with resi's and dual rates
Mikemike, did you ever end up using the 10.25 stuff we traded? If you didn't ,wanna sell em back?
Went to the field and stream opening ran into some peeps and found a gimble cup holder for $8
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Cup holder FTW!
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Diff cover right? Still have, unused. Was there something else? Disk brake brackets maybe? They should still be there too
Tapatalking in traffic
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Just out of curiosity how much cheaper were the foas vs fox?
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from the site i ordered 2" 14"travel foa=195 fox=355 radflo-385 sway=312 got a 5% off code as well
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195 is cheap wow
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shocks will be here monday, anyone got springs for sale or got a hookup?
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pro tip: drain your fuel cell before a relocation project
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Old man steps and a boner
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Are you calling me old?
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Hey those are on my winter list too. Now I'm offended. :)
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boner
?????
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boner
?????
lol, a hoop on the front is known as a boner bar
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Nice!
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It is?
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Yup. Standard name for big dumb stingers.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Here they are in all their pirate hating glory. No scratches or songs or unfinished machinery, missing parts or oil leaking so far
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No leaking out of the box? According to pirate that's not possible.
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1 thread per inch!
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1 thread per inch!
if you are referring to the thread on the bodies,yes. fine thread is available its like another 20 beans or so. these things are no bells and whistles
wait no i just measured, its 3 threads per inch
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if thats 3 threads per inch than that shock body is like .8" diameter..
think not.
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Worse then the once around here. Always a critic
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so thats 2TPI for you guys that dont like addition or rulers :)
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Diff cover right? Still have, unused. Was there something else? Disk brake brackets maybe? They should still be there too
Tapatalking in traffic
told ya I replied!
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Bam!
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She's ready for some testing!
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lets go
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needs a bath!
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thing performed well with no issues this weekend! even took a full speed reverse hit to a tree! which was fun to watch!
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That sounds painfully familiar.
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F me, back to the drawing board
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i saw that baby moving pretty good when you were backing on the trailer
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what are we looking at
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A couple of tabs to catch the top cover bolts?
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what are we looking at
top plate of truss is bent and twisted
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Ruff stuff makes a nice tie in kit for their pinion guard.
I bought one and modified it to work with my existing truss.
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what are we looking at
top plate of truss is bent and twisted
is it bent because of link forces or contact with chassis?
looks to be .25" bridge and tabs
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in guessing link forces, with no gusseting to prevent twisting. upgrade top peice to 3/8"s and add some gussets
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more box less i beam
thicker material with same design wont fix that
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thats why ill add vertical gussets to prevent it from teater tatering on the i ,like the artec truss
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ready to put coilovers on the front, what is a reasonable price to ask for my 2" air shocks, they retail on poly for $300 a piece , i dont think i paid over $220
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What length are they troy?
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oh boy... :P
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law of half if in good used shape.
I still have two brand new Profender 2.5's on the shelf, 16" with res.
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Tom I believe they are 16's but they might even be 18's
Not really interested in pro fenders seeing what you guys deal with
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They’re fine as long as you don’t break them.
Adequate limit straps and bump stops are a must.
Tapatalking in traffic
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more than fine for your application.
must for all CO's.....
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Bear in mind what I’m doing to them as well as 5 years of that service. Thats like 50 years of req wheeling. Seriously.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Req wheeling?
Seriously?
Fuck work. Fuck it fuck it fuck it.
ReC wheeling. Too funny to just correct.
Tapatalking in traffic
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gonna put this in the unfixable folder
something isnt right on this drive slug either
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It's fine... :o
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thorough
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good as new, i hope
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new parts
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Would like this pig to go to the Aug trip. Short list
Upgrade battery,starter, and alternator wires
Anyone got an online source for automotive wire?
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I've ordered all of my cables from this guy on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/usr/genuinedealz?_trksid=p2047675.l2559)
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cool! summit has anything quick too.
this unit did some night wheel hawging! i cringed a few times but both front tires still kept pulling. the MTRs were holding there own!
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You gonna put new cap and rotor on it? also fix/new distributor cuz one of the cap hold down screw hole is hosed?
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wirebarn
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this unit did some night wheel hawging! i cringed a few times but both front tires still kept pulling. the MTRs were holding there own!
Stock shafts and same axle joints from when axle was pulled ftw
The cap is fine it's a screw that snapped off on the distrubutoer plate that I've forgotten about and just ziptied the cap down, now that I remembered about it it's also the cause of losing 1st and 8th cylinders
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ya having 123hp helps 31spline 60 shafts live.
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Solid unit this weekend other then a leaky Axle seal we had just replaced and dirty fuel filter needed a cleaning. Starting issues and binding front shaft seem to be resolved atm
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ya im thinking we should have hit your shafts with a wire wheel, or the yukon seals i had kicking around dont agree with your stock shafts.
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Pulled this thing out of the garage,R.I.P. a red top I guess 8 years was a decent life span
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sold :'(