M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: luvmyxj on May 13, 2016, 03:55:22 PM
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anyone have a jeep donut so i can push this thing around
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progress
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None of that v8 crap. Build the bro to a bro!!
All of us have some rollers for that. I left 2 on steelies at smikes. I have 2 of your old mismatch from the mj and 2 are in the paddoc.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Fun time at Metalico this morning but regardless $105 back in my pocket. Heading to surplus if anyone needs anything txt me
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$125 to me. Had to hand unload 1100#, crane was busy :(
Tapatalking in traffic
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i have def done the 30 mph reverse slam on the brakes more than once to unload full YJ tubs. it takes 3-4 good hits. remember to pull the bumper pull hitch head out first if equipped so
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dump trailer makes #1200 a breeze to unload until you find out motors and trannies go into a different pile, had to roll it into a bobcat bucket. staff is always polite and helpful at the transfer station on portland, even escorted me once to the atm machine for large withdrawel, its the other "customers" that are the annoyance
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$125 to me. Had to hand unload 1100#, crane was busy :(
Tapatalking in traffic
125$ just over a half ton? it was 90$ a ton last time i scrapped.... must be up a bunch?
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$165
Several other things too. No wheels but a decent bit of aluminum. Also $.50/ lb for wire with insulation. That shocked me - and got me $7.
Oh - and $23 for stainless in mostly TDI egr parts.
Tapatalking in traffic
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160516/3ac07ca032e73cdb86530f451e1d8a6e.jpg)
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progress
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so what is the project goal here? brolite? or something else?
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something streetable,wheelable and just cool to cruise around in. hopefully looks something like this when done
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got some prices on tube, klein=$65 per 20' + $30 to deliver, nolan $60 shipped. i offered to help scott werner to weld some shock mounts on so he stopped by yesterday, turns out his brother is a sales rep at klein and gave him a call ,should have a price today that beats em both
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i only call nolan- free delivery and their lead time from an email is worth everything to me! they have never dissapointed me!
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i only call nolan- free delivery and their lead time from an email is worth everything to me! they have never dissapointed me!
I'll second that.
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2wd?
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No it will be 4wd, d60 front and rear
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60s front and rear are a far cry from post #12
Tapatalking in traffic
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More or less going for the look of post #12, 2wd sand runner isn't real optimal for the area
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explorer springs and ranger springs are way to stiff for what we want in a bro lite.
id guess troy is thinking a solid 60 front, which would mean they are even more way too wrong in the heavy rate direction with no motion ratio from radius arms / ect
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Rear springs as of now are totally beat, was just gonna order a add a leaf last night ,explorer spring would be good in the rear ,I can pull a leaf I figure if too stiff. Front suspension I'm thinking either a f150 strut or just get a 10"-12" travel c/o, with a Clayton type double y link with pan hard setup
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should go D50 TTB or whatever up front to keep it classy
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If it was a direct bolt in swap from the d35 that's there now I'd consider it, but it's not, + already have a d60 that's been sitting in my driveway anyhoo
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So Scott just called me his bro can hook me up at $45 a length of tube just gotta wait for more to come in, smike let me know when you got time to cage this pile
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progress
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just realised i can get historical plates for this, any real advantage to that?
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Insurance, I think
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Yes!!
My historical insurance is $7/month.
Registration is for one year only on historical.
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And awesome factor
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That's pretty awesome.
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i had it on the scrambler, didn't seem to benefit anything, cost was same- just more annoying on a 12 month renew.
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my garage is exactly 20' long
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35's no lift. put a solid weekends worth of work on this thing, rear 60 tacked in and 70% of tube work done
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links for reference
http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/threads/208777-5-0l-ranger-college-build
http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/Dana44TTBconversion.htm
http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/V8Conversions.shtml
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picked up this sweet parts truck for threefiddy, bj d60 front,10.25 rear ,351 windsor
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Score!
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Nice score. What's your plan with it?
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Put it in the ranger!
Wow that’s cheap
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engine,tranny,transfer case,front axle ,maybe steering box and brake stuff going into ranger. driveshafts and rear axle will get raped for parts, rest going to the scrapyard
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What year is it?
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96,old body style
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1st scrap run today netted $66 for 1200lb of loose iron, gonna make a run tomorrow at ben weitsman, have 2 trannies and a t case,1 radiator and 4 heater cores and a cat
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I'd never heard of them. wow, they're open late. and sunday.
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I got $1.28 for my last radiator. Not even worth pulling from scrap cars anymore.
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always worth it for old brass. still worth it for heavy aluminum too I'm certain. light shit w plastic tanks though? not surprising.
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Woo hoo, 2nd scrap run netted $171, $80 just for the cat, Spencer Is right, .10lb for dirty alum didn't even pay for my coffee
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did you got my PM?
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this is frustrating
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Yoke clearance?
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looks like a clocking ring will take care of that right quick
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yeah a $80 ring that wasnt planned. i can drill and tap the case but that requires help beyond my talent, or swap the aod for a c6 tranny
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What trany is that? Please don't tell me a 4r70w. If so I will have the same issue for the bronco.
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What trany is that? Please don't tell me a 4r70w. If so I will have the same issue for the bronco.
if im reading the internet correct a aode is a 4r70w, if so then yes.looks like a d300 clocking ring has the same 6bolt pattern as a 205 . i had a ring that was on a case i bought from erik that i think i gave to smike to give to someone else, i wonder if that ever got used? if nt $40 for a ring isnt too bad
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I had a 6 bolt round that I never used, pretty sure it went via smike to someone for something.
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the one Mike gave me unded up on wonder 1.0 to clock down a 231 behind a YJ AX15 installed into an XJ
not sure about another ring, it may have gotten passed on to someone else, i think it had no hardware or something.
300/231/205 are all the same? neat
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6 bolt round or 6 bolt texas. input shafts differ but I *think* all married cases are one of two bolt patterns.
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This is the only one advertised will also fit a 205 with a disclaimer that it has to be modified to accommodate one of the shift rails
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=172389395254&alt=web
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6 bolt round or 6 bolt texas. input shafts differ but I *think* all married cases are one of two bolt patterns.
I think it's a Chevy 205 has a 8 bolt pattern
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I had thrown out the idea of swapping my D20 for a 205 behind my crawl box because I couldn't find any info on bolt patterns. I'm sure I can deal with the input shaft issue if I had to. If you get that supposedly universal clocking ring, take some measurements and post them up?
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do these seem like a decent deal?will i be able to get hardware for them
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/pts/5907501968.html
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8" travel seems useless
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8" stroke seems awfully short, that's more important than the missing parts.
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yeah thats what i figured
progress
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I found a clocking ring on NWF site that says it works for 300 and NV cases but specified only Dodge 205. FYI
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I found a clocking ring on NWF site that says it works for 300 and NV cases but specified only Dodge 205. FYI
I got that guy down to $150 for a c6, leaning towards that route seems like the most simplest. Even if I clock it I can only go up and still seems like shifter linkage and bad is still in the way
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this guy just dropped his price to $800, decent deal or no
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/pts/5894060940.html
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/misc-stuff-sale/2437346-king-2-0x14-shocks.html
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i have a pair of new in box profender 2.5 16"s co w/res
pair of used 12" fox spendy race shocks with DSCs also
slated for the next brolite, but everything is for sale....
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what are dsc's? throw up some numbers
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800 for the pair of new profenders 16x2.5/res (440? each plus shipping on site new)
1200 for the pair of Foxes dual speed compression adjusters 12x2.5/DSC res (1800 new w/race discount)
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i have spare shafts and ends for both also available.
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good to know,on the back burner for now
wont be able to use a cv but enough room to work
i cant believe how hard it is to find stock parts for a 351w, need valve covers and fuel rail and cant seem to find anything out there
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these came up on a desert forum, 2.5 foxs 12" travel, springs and hardware included, may need a rebuild. big sis is willing to pick them up for me in cali and front the money i dont have. guy is asking $1500 for the c/o's and bipasses.does that seem like a fair price?keeping in mind its gonna cost a 100 or so to ship here
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I think you don't need bypasses for what you are doing. you will NEED to do valving on the coilovers if you run just the c/o since they'll have little to no valving in them.
seems a relatively reasonable price for all, though.
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well i would love to race it at least once whether it be line mountain or find some other rally/brolite type race, so the question would be is it better to have bi's over just remote resi's? good point on the c/o's , is it a substancial cost to valve them?
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smike knows better, I haven't ever touched that yet.
it's mostly effort though.
bypasses are easier to tune, that's the major benefit to them.
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seal kits, probably a few shims depending on what they need and a gallon of oil would do it for 100$ or so. They look well used, and are blues the economy performance level
do i only see one compression and one rebound adjustment on the bipass?
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I should have looked closer, they do look pretty well-used. And yeah, 2 tube. That's pretty strange too. Makes 1500 seem pretty steep.
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you still have some air shocks for sale? Wolfi looking for cheap options on the front of his FJ doing a link swap right now
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yeah looks like 2 tube, must not be uncommon for desert ppl ,i see other 2 tube for sale ranging from $900-1100. so all things considering ill hit him with $1300 see what happens
yeah i still have my air shocks was gonna throw them on cl today and see what happens
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what are the air shocks specs and cost?
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2.0 i think they are 18" , do you measure eye to eye or total overall length? support 1000lbs a corner, new on kustom1 $270 asking $700 but would take 600
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18" would be the travel, should match the amount of shaft showing at full extension.
length measurements are taken eye to eye extended and collapsed. sometimes easier to look up than measure.
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o, you have 4 he just needs a pair
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I'd sell 2 of them. Kinda works out cause 2 are still on the buggy
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progress
what a pain to get this engine to fit, had to relief cut the frame spread it open fish plate it and still had to notch to get the header to fit
shocks have been purchased
is this an acceptable amount of chain movement or should it be replaced?
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lol wow
turn those babies upsidedown and cross them over the motor!
chain looks fine- why is the timing cover pulled lol
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no room above the motor either, the intake is so tall on the 5.8 im hoping i even mounted it low enough to not have to modify the hood
motor got stripped of everything to make it easier to clean and paint it eventually, thankfully i did because the cover had a crack on the inside. new cover ,oil pan,water pump,gaskets and starter sitting on a shelf. it crazy the cost difference between sbf and sbc
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progress
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I was wondering how long before the seo link spamming started from our new offshore friend.
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progress
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ebay seller fucked me. this is what ordered for my 95" 351w efi. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-SB-289-302-351-Windsor-5-0L-1981-99-Aluminum-Timing-Chain-Cover-Efi-/351806239763?hash=item51e9493413
imagine my suprise when the port holes are like 90deg turned, cover is for a mid 80's carbed 351w, so i had to return my water pump i bought back in nov and got one for a carbed 351 but now the problem is the pulley bolt holes dont line up, is there a way to pull the mounting flange and swap on the one from my core? i guess my other option is grabbing a smaller pulley from the jy from a 302
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redrill the pulley? get the right timing cover?
is belt spacing going to be right with your current mix n match?
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redrill the pulley?
brain was so fried i didnt even think of it, drilled and done. as long as its in the windsor family most parts are interchangable but apparently not a efi/carb water pump
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dont really understand whats going on here, with the axle nut torqued rotor is jammed against the caliber bracket. p/o gave 0 fucks and let the rotor self clearance. iny idea to the issue and a remedy?
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My vote is wrong rotor or wrong caliper.
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according to advance/autozone specs ,rotor is correct dimensions.could the inner race and bearing be so worn its allowing to get closer to the bracket? spare hub androtor i have from a kp d60 mount with a 1/8" of clearance
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no way a bearing can be that worn and still be 'good', a wrong inner bearing and/or race is more likely.
is this the newer ball joint D60, 95-97? I have their knuckles on my dodge, and I don't have that issue.
your rotors do look too tall in the pic? Napaonline says they should be 3.1" height
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NB_4886476?searchCategory=3.4&searchIndex=App
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could this be the same problem observed on Joe's TJ swap where a different inner race was needed to move the hub out 1/8" and get proper clearance for a locking hub?
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seems like that race swap would fix this issue, but also seems odd because its entirely different.
what year axle confirm?
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95 bj d60. for shits and gig's I'll put same rotor on driver side hub and see if same issue remains
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same rotor and hub on drivers side yeilded same results. same rotor different hub that came with axle yielded same result on both side. spare hub and rotor from parts axle tolerant fitment with same dimensions as original hub and rotor. gotta be race and bearing shot in both hubs
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check race depth. may be different. no way a race wears that much.
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its a roller
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Woo!
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looks tall in front
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its got a good amount of brolean since rear leafs are pretty much flat, new springs should level it out, 6ft to top of the roof
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smike widdled me up this sweet spacer so i now have a 205 mated to a c6. floorboards started and seats mounted
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Been making small amounts of progress and down to some final items, if anyone has any of this stuff laying around available for purchase lmk
1 3/4 toob
Remote reservoir shocks
48" light bar as well as cube lights
4 or 5 point harnesses
Red or yellow led oval lights
Muffler
Any 2.5 wide leafs I can add to my stack
1 35"x12.5/17tire
1 h2 rim for said tire
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Muffler
Any 2.5 wide leafs I can add to my stack
I have XJ lift springs. Free (broke)
Need more info on what muffler you need. I have stock XJ mufflers, If I remember correctly they're 2.25"
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I think I’m sitting on my good 3†magnaflow muffler from the Dakota. I’m “sure†I’ll use it eventually? Oval case stainless. Not small. Centered one end offset on the other.
Have one 5pt harness from 571. I think the modified one. Way expired.
I will have some 6†oval leds after I do trailer lights. Only one good amber, 2 or 4 good red. May have a couple more spare reds as well. Plug in bullet connector types. I think I have a few pig tails too. Everything from the trailer wiring will be scrap too.
Have some H2s. All have heavy rock rash or curb damage. Best may be ok. Rest should probably just scrap...
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brett ill definately scoop those leafs tomorrow eve if your around
i need 4 red 1 yellow so that will be perfect mike, maybe even grab 2 of the h2's
question, can you use a tranny cooler as a oil cooler?is there really any difference?
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I've never dug into that. there may be flow or pressure differences but I've used them interchangeably with success...
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Any local sources for fuel hold down like these?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/3-8-Stainless-Steel-Double-Line-Clamps-Pack-of-12/522340026?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1040&adid=22222222228071597892&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=182320775259&wl4=aud-310687322322:pla-287044642981&wl5=9005663&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113727841&wl11=online&wl12=522340026&wl13=&veh=sem
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Updates Troy?
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Updates Troy?
nothing to report ,just a bunch of shelved parts, maybe once koh hype dies down i can talk m4 into hosting a build party some weekend
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updates troy been over another year :)
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I see hes got a nice new kitchen!
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stop it!its only been 2 years
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1 Ton tie rod mock-up .How do the angles look? I there anything i should change?
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https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R1768.html
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Yup, you’ll need that, or something else to stop the tie rod roll and kill the dead spot. 100%.
Geometry looks excellent.
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more shock shaft showing at ride height a hope?
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Yup, you’ll need that, or something else to stop the tie rod roll and kill the dead spot. 100%.
Geometry looks excellent.
the frugal side of me refuses to pay $30 for a piece of plastic,im sure i can widdle something up
some parts showed up,i got nervous just using barbs and hose clamps for the fuel line knowing ford efi runs at 35-40 psi, so i ordered so,nylon braided hose and will be -6 from the pump to the rail
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i really dont understand WTF is going on with this, as you can see the brake caliper bracket has 0 room to fit where its suppose to,its like the hat of the rotor needs to be 1/2" thinner but ive checked and it doesnt exist. its the same case on both sides. the previous owner just jammed it on there and it self clearanced itself and only had 1/8" of rotor left on the backside. i thought maybe the bracket was bent and ordered one on amazon with no dice, same story.i dont understand waht is wrong, PLZ help
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Assuming the threads are in the bracket and not the knuckle, then incorrect rotor?
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Assuming the threads are in the bracket and not the knuckle, then incorrect rotor?
every rotor from 93-96 that ive found online and at advance is 3.11inches thick. the only thing i can think of is the solid axle bj d60 is so uncommon it a specialty find since the far majority were ttb d50
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Mismatched knuckle x hub x spindle
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Mismatched knuckle x hub x spindle
its all original as far as i know, ive even tried spare buggy parts that yield same results, i cant even find a stock photo on the web for comparison
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There's about a 400 page thread on Pirate about the Dodge to Ford knuckle swap that Bret and I both did. I think there are some details there on what mismatch can cause this. I know I've seen someone have the issue before but that's as much details as I'm solid on.
I guarantee you that if it were all original, it would fit right without minus .125" clearance ;)
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unit bearing or old style spindle? Joes front axle there were two PN bearing cups that moved the hub 1/8" in or out if i recall..
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These will still be spindle+hub setup.
That bearing cup is highly likely!
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unit bearing or old style spindle? Joes front axle there were two PN bearing cups that moved the hub 1/8" in or out if i recall..
spindle style
i found this listing on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-10-95-96-97-Ford-Dana-60-Front-axle-High-pinion-F350-F250-SWAP-WILL-SHIP-96/333204891949?hash=item4d948f292d:g:1CYAAOSw165c4yzW
at least a 1/4" of space between rotor and bracket and the rotor doesnt seem to be any different size then mine. which then makes me believe its down to spindle and inner bearing and races
There's about a 400 page thread on Pirate about the Dodge to Ford knuckle swap that Bret and I both did. I think there are some details there on what mismatch can cause this. I know I've seen someone have the issue before but that's as much details as I'm solid on.
I guarantee you that if it were all original, it would fit right without minus .125" clearance ;)
dont omit the fact it could be something im doing wrong
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there's nothing to do wrong if all the parts are right and installed.
inner race thickness, inner bearing, or wrong year hub for rotor are pretty much the options.
though one thought did come to mind that _could_ be it - but I think it would be more of 1/2" difference than 1/8": caliper bracket location, and order of stacking with the spindle. I almost think Ford and GM/Dodge swap that order with one having the brake bracket over the spindle and the other having the spindle and knuckle be the bread of the 3 piece sammich.
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Good point Mike! Forgot about the stacking thing.
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ya but the caliper bracket mounting in this case is part of the knuckle....
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https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/798413-help-id-my-dana-60-calipers.html
not a 1/2" off.
you have the thin race PN
get the thicker race PN
will move the hub out .125"
thought i had the PN but dont have them. we went though this same issue with Joes TJ
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Change your inner bearing cups from 382S to 382A to push hub out 0.173" and make room for rotor.
Timken 382S
C - Cup Width
0.6250 in
https://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings---single-cups/tapered-roller-bearings---single-cups---imperial/382-s
Timken 382A
https://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings---single-cups/tapered-roller-bearings---single-cups---imperial/382a
C - Cup Width
0.7982 in
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Bearing cups are 382a
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ya but the caliper bracket mounting in this case is part of the knuckle....
Sheeeeeeeeeit
Sure is. and already has the thicker race.
hmm
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i assume you actually pulled the cup out and read the number or measured it....
hmmm dont know then!
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i assume you actually pulled the cup out and read the number or measured it....
hmmm dont know then!
Yes. Went to carter St and got a bearing with no change.went back for the race but their national238a is same as my timken328a
So that leaves the spindle and the shoulder the bearing rest against,ciuld it be possible there's a spindle that's a 1/4" longer, how could I even find that out?
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Here's a dumb thought...
How thick is the factory splash shield?
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16guage at the most,i had same thought but that eBay listing doesn't have them installed either
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are you missing the big snap rings in the hub? cant remember if those are in 60 or in 14bolt hubs. the inner race could be sitting on a casting instead of sitting on a snap ring
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Race sits against a casting lip
If you need to return something to Amazon and select ordered wrong part it's a $6 charge, if you go back 2 pages and make up some b.s. excuse the return is free
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Wrong rotor is my guess.
You’re welcome to try my ‘correct’ rotor & hub assembly I took off my truck.
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little by little, had to remount new radiator due to being larger then the one used for mock up,coolant lines ran. Decided seats mounted to high, ripped it all out and remounted lower, and harnesses mounted in.Oil cooler and filter relocation kit mounted. Fuel return bulkhead installed in fuel cell and pressure/return lines ran and pump installed. Started to dig into the harness and find the necessities. I have about 85% of parts needed to finish have to go to the bank tomorrow and pay off my amazon card and order the rest. Still a lot to do
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holiday tomorrow!
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is this what you need battery cables for?
starting a v8, idk about winch, and is the battery in the bed?
probably 2ga
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holiday tomorrow!
Not for me, working Thurs, even sat possibly sun, so swamped with work right now. Don't know if anybody caught it but Roch is in the top 5 economies in the country right now, not a contractor I know who doesn't have 2-3 months worth of work lined up right now.
is this what you need battery cables for?
starting a v8, idk about winch, and is the battery in the bed?
probably 2ga
Yes sir,gif had replied 2ga fco, which if I understand correctly is pure copper, no aluminum blend
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was referring to bank closure/
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picked up a new toy, so far cuts 1/4" fairly well
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nice!
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Could someone give me a linky or the specs for what I would need for h2 lug nut style and thread size for standard 8 lug
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Standard 9/16 x 18 (fine thread) tapered shoulder "acorn"
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Standard 9/16 x 18 (fine thread) tapered shoulder "acorn"
Thank you sir, ordered
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...the only hiccup might be your wheel studs, they might be 1/2"...
I think one of the manufacturers ran the smaller studs.
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did anyone have 35"s for sale, looking for 2
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I hav 35x12.5x15 hanhook mud terrain on steel wheels
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i have some SCRs they are for 17s
i have new loose or used on mustang wheels
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I hav 35x12.5x15 hanhook mud terrain on steel wheels
I think i need 16" to clear d60 brakes,thanks though
i have some SCRs they are for 17s
i have new loose or used on mustang wheels
i thought you sold all your scr's,looking at your for sale post, did you still have any bfg mt's?
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i have all of my SCR's still. i just have the one MTR that is brand new on a walker evans bead lock 15" TJ lug
no one showed up with cash, dont remember what i was asking. sitting in storage now and less motivated. still rolling a set on my ZJ. havent driven my zj more than once since April....
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project in full swing again, i have floorboards again, rear shocks mounted,fuel system ran, battery mounted and main power ran, engine harness weeded through maybe time to start this thing soon
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Awesome. What tires you thinking of running (if you havent gotten new ones already)
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ill probably run these which are 35's on the street till they are spanked, id like to find a set of 37-39 for wheeling though, but for street ill stay on 35's
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needs some 39 BFG KRs to be baller street trophy!
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my return fitting on my ps pump is just above the gearbox and is made of plastic,id like to cut it shorter and cap it off, if i do that could i just drill a hole through the cap and stick the return line through it, or would that cause an issue, or is there a better solution?
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If you return above the fluid level you’ll aerate the fluid horribly. Bad day.
Almost as bad a day as when that fitting snaps off when the motor moves enough to kiss that weak plastic crap.
Maybe take off whole nipple, tap for npt and put a nipple on a street elbow?
I ran NPT threaded into the stub of a plastic return nipple on my bro for a while. I don’t know if that may have lead to eventual pump failure if it did eventually leak or fail. I put on a TC pump with remote resi. Too many fail points in those plastic things. So I gave myself a whole host of fresh homemade failure points instead!
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understood
after some research, looks like i can swap on a bracket from a e-150 or likewise and they run a saginaw pump instead which is a better pump and has metal return fitting out the back of the pump
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god i hate wiring ,got a bunch of these to try and do a legit job https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777DY92C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
got the crimper for them and took me 6 tries to figure how to use it correctly, and FYI when dealing with chinese lights white is ground black is hot
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FYI when dealing with chinese lights white is ground black is hot
This one took me longer than I are to admit
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start of the interior
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hopefully the last time i have to pull the motor, underside painted and bedlined,i found an affordable dynamat substitute but with a much higher heat resistance and suitable for firewall and underside coverage as i didnt want to put it inside on the floorboards, i do plan on using killmat on walls and ceiling inside of the cab
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update on this hawg? had to look to page 3 for the thread ;D
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I pushed it out of the garage today, swept around it and pushed it back in. I currently have more money than time, I should talk to you about some work on it when you have time.
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lame sauce!
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whats left that you need some help with?
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Turn signal/hazard wiring, engine wiring and start up,driveshafts,some minor plumbing,shifter installs,rear body panels, and some finish welding and I think that's about it other than cosmetic stuff
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i was pretty determined to get the engine to start and run this weekend. i have everything wired and set up, i have spark, i have fuel pressure at the rail, but no start. if i spray fuel in the throttle body it starts and runs, so that was good. im pretty sure i have power to the pcm but im thinking the injectors are not firing or getting a signal. my question is does the computer typically need a signal from the fuel pump that it is on and running for it to start firing the injectors?
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if it fires on fuel dumped into it that means the PCM is at least functioning and preparing for a start- you could stick a DVM into one of the injectors harness plug to verify power is being sent to open them (meter will just bounce, but if it does nothing then no power)
if you get some kind of bouncing voltage to an injector, start tapping on the side of the injectors with something while cranking or feeding it with carb shot. im guessing this thing sat so long they are just stuck. you can also pull the rail and crank it to see if they are spraying (be carful)
i
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usually no feedback there. but did you jumper the crash switch? I think it kills the fuel pump not the injectors though. check computer ground and check injector power?
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usually no feedback there. but did you jumper the crash switch? I think it kills the fuel pump not the injectors though. check computer ground and check injector power?
i still have entire wiring loom for body and have donor truck steering column plugged in to make sure i had key on power, i found the + for fuel pump and ran a wire to it, now fuel pump comes on and pressurizes with key on and i checked the inertia switch and it shuts off when activated. i m pretty confident i have all grounds connected , but not sure how i would check if the computer has power. i have 2 red/white wires from 42 pin engine harness to injectors/ sensors etc that i have no idea where they go, looking for wire diagram to see if they possibly need 12+
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if it runs on starting fluid, then the computer is hot and working. it wont make spark if its not happy with crank signal and maybe another thing or two.
still id go for making sure fuel is coming out of injectors and injectors are not stuck. very common with sitting for years
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i have a feeling your prolly right, might be worthwhile to just get a new set of injectors, $40 on amazon :D
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New injectors in, still no vroom vroom. Still will start on manual fuel power. Still have to check voltage at injectors. Hmm maybe timing or PIP sensor after that?
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did you crank with the rail off the engine and confirm the injectors are spraying fuel?
it must be fuel or injector related, if it runs off starting fluid
assume fuel is not 9 years old in the truck supply?
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These injectors aren't held to the rail by typical clips, the rail fastens down on top of them, as soon as you add pressure it pops the injector out
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Am I doing this correctly? Multimeter set at 20v, red in injector harness ,black grounded, key on sits at .11v and when cranking jumps between .25-.35v
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2 wires to injector, one might be hot all the time, as they are usually ground side driven in the ECM, regardless probe both wires on injector harness plug) and you should see jumping on meter when cranking. (dont attempt to use a chassis ground- could hurt meter or hurt ECM)
the meter isnt fast enough so it will try to average and give you a garbage voltage reading but the point is that you are seeing a voltage pulse or just seeing a constant zero volts. A jumping meter or voltage pulse of any kind likely means the ECM is calling to open the injector properly.
while you have the injectors unplugged you could also check resistance between the two pins on each injector- should be something like 1.5, 4, or 12ohms. all should be same value around there. if any way high, way low, or open- bad time.
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pretty sure I didn't pay $25 when I bought this 3 years ago, but it's super useful for exactly this sort of testing. even has mini points you can jam into the connector.
I haven't seen it in a while - probably in Joe someplace.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-27800-Universal-Noid-Light/dp/B0002SR57Q
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Found one for $14 ,ordered.
So if the red wire is hot ,where does that typically come from? Pcm? Or another source, on a Ford forum guy says there's a 3 prong plug that has 2+ 1- for injector power, but I have no such plug. Is there a way I could hot wire 12+v to them?
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on our Rangers it comes from ignition power, IIRC. there's a bundle of wires to tie into switches +12 and it's basically injectors, PCM power, fuel pump, alternator.
not sure how much those have in common with your BIG MOTOR
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noid light came and confirmed no power at the injector
had a few hours to kill so ran to j&j and picked up a eec and chassis harness and no change, threw a new ignition coil and map sensor at it and still no change, kinda lost now, should i throw a new distributor at it?
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Distrib won’t affect injector pulse unless the dist is where the computer senses cam/ crank position.
No cam/crank pos will lead to no injection though. That might be the next thing I’d chase.
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yes, fords have a profile ignition pickup sensor in the dizzy, fords version of a crank sensor
if i stick a 12+jumper into the + side of the injector as long as the eec completes the circuit with the ground that should run the engine, right?
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Double check wiring schematic but that’s certainly what I’d expect…
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giving this thing one more go b4 i either pull the drivetrain and swap in chevy 5.3 or salvage whats of value and scrap the rest. What ive just noticed is according to this https://www.startmycar.com/us/ford/f-250/info/fusebox/1995 under dash fuse no. 13 has electronic engine control tied to it, would that have anything to do with the ecu functioning properly?
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By the name, very much so
Could be source of power or switched power. I’ll have to reread to see what the problem is
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By the name, very much so
Could be source of power or switched power. I’ll have to reread to see what the problem is
No power to the injectors. Engine will run on starting fluid
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ford does lots of weird things, im still surprised you have spark which means the PCM is happy with crank and distributor signals / wants to start.
really only leaves mechanically stuck injectors from aged fuel, or no constant +12 power to the injectors (PCM switches ground). the +12v should be tracable and just go to a main relay or fused power- i would start with that. if you dont have constant power to all those pink wires on the injectors when your ignition is on it just wont start.
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injectors are brand new.
im not getting power to maxi fuse 22 which is ignition, so ive hot wired that with 12+ and all the relays go clicky ckicky
ive also jumpered the nss switch
grounds are all reading good
with my multimeter set at 200ohms im getting 14.8 at the injector plug
i have no voltage on the red wire of the injector plug
engine will still start and run on starting fluid
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underhood diagram
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So looking at the diagram do you have power going into the pcm relay,And then back out then it clicks on. I just had this kinda issue on a 4 wheeler and it was a bad relay it would click but not stay closed.
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when i plug my jumper wire in, which is black top right ,pcm relay will click then 3 seconds later click again, does the same with 3 other spare relays
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have you bypassed the PCM relay to see if that provides expected hot side power to the injectors? I'd definitely do that with a fused lead. if it's a relay issue/ignition issue as it seems to be, giving fused 30A power to the output of "EEC OR PCM RELAY" should work around that.
I can't imagine what would make it click back off after hotwiring fuse 55 unless that black wire goes somewhere else other than straight to ground.
Are you missing some ground wires anywhere for the relay box?
Everything highlighted on that diagram looks pretty dead simple. running on ether means the ECM is getting juice.
Harder to tell if white and tan are switching ground as it cranks trying to fire the injectors, easier to just give the red side juice and see if fuel pump lights up and then injectors pulse
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So are you saying to jumper 30 to 87 of the relay ,or give 87 12v. Do I even have the relay terminology correct?
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unplug the pcm
turn you "ignition" on or whatever you would do before a crank attempt.
do you have +12 at ECM pins 1, 57, 37, 22 between ground? if not, fix that should fire if injectors are not mechanically stuck.
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All pins suggested have 12+
Checked continuity from injector plug back to 48pin engine plug ,was good. If I wanted to check continuity from fuse box to injector 12+, where would I start?
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Pcm pinout for reference
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i have no voltage on the red wire of the injector plug
All pins suggested have 12+
so which is it, power or no power to injector red wire (pin 37/57) with key on?
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i have no voltage on the red wire of the injector plug
All pins suggested have 12+
so which is it, power or no power to injector red wire (pin 37/57) with key on?
Lol, both
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i guess im not understanding you. the diagram shows injector red wire is pin 37/57.
if you have power at pin 57/37 but you dont have power at the injector plug, you have a harness issue because those are connected directly together....
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Right, that's what I'm saying. Shouldn't I have continuity from the injector plug 12+ to pins 1,57,37? Because I don't, I do have continuity on pin 22 that runs through the iac to the 12+ injector rail
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Right, that's what I'm saying. Shouldn't I have continuity from the injector plug 12+ to pins 1,57,37? Because I don't, I do have continuity on pin 22 that runs through the iac to the 12+ injector rail
with key off or on pins 57/37 (not pin 1) should have 0 ohms (continuity) to injector pink wires.
with key off or on pin 1 is constant 12v power always hot, like pcm keep alive/memory power)
with key off or on pins 57/37 to pin 21* would have an ohm reading 1-20ish or something for iac coil, yes
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There was a leak on the gram of this unit firing and running!
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What a pain in the dick! So i had butchered the original engine bay harness which i thought no big deal ill just go to j&J and get one, which i did ,same year truck, same year engine. Well now that i have an understanding of what wire does what etc etc, turns out the injector harness is completely pinnedout differently than the engine bay wiring. So i went to j&j fri , they didnt have any 90's fords but had a 88-89 and spent 2 hours in the rain pulling the harness out of it, get home and the distributors are wired differently. So instead of trying to figure out how to make that work i decided to salvage the original harness and voila , it runs
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Now onto my other major hurdle. When i bought the transmission i had no idea there are 2 different length 4wd tailshaft housings, 5.75" long and 8.75" long. I have the 5.75" long one, i need the 8.75" one in order to mount the np205 behind correctly, as you can see in the photos there is zero room for a driveshaft to spin freely, i need that extra 3" of length away from the tranny. So i either need a c6 tranny with the correct housing, or get the housing and a longer tailshaft to swap in ,or get a np 203 which originally came behind the shorter tailshaft, or the not so desired np 208, and none of these options seem to be easy to find or cheap
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i wouldnt think 3" would give you much more side to side room. do you NEED a CV? can you just run a ujoint there with 2" 120 wall shaft size?
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I need more room in front of the yolk, the corner of the pan is 3” in front of it. From my understanding anything you run on the street you want a front cv joint, no?
In my other photo you can see a 5/8ths spacer we made at your old shop at the t case, I could get something an inch thicker and make a new one, that maybe give me enough space and still have enough spline engagement
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you have hubs and a 205, so that front shaft doesnt spin unless your in 4x4. if you drive line angles arent crazy and a ujoint ot ujoint shaft would work id try that.
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Gotcha, at full bump driveshaft should be dead flat
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could always limit strap the front also so it doesn't over extend driveline angles at full droop in 4x4. can also do some yoke clearancing to keep things from at least breaking too if your pushing single joint angles
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I had to switch sides with the output because of trans interference. In my case, I have to run a D300 flipped for driver side output.
Could swapping sides address the clearance issue? Of course, it would require far more work…
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i hadnt thought of it but i could just get a clocking ring, it would not only move it 3/8" back but down
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This would solve the issue
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1405964547008313/?mibextid=dXMIcH
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seems pretty reasonable. matching 203 front half maybe sellable for doubler building too if anyone still does that. I wonder if I'll ever run mine from the Dakota in something again?
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I would run the 203 vs the 205. The 203 moves the output yoke 4-5 back because of the offset of the input which the 205's output is 4-5" further from its mating surface