M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: carchameleon on May 10, 2016, 09:17:49 AM
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We have been talking and we don't plan on ever moving from this house, we need some kind of storage space for the lawn stuff and my jeep/tools/ect. This is the plan we came up with.
According to Brighton town code, I'm allowed to cover 25% of my lot sq.ft. with buildings, that leaves me space to put up a 24'x24' (no more than 16'tall) detached garage (can't be more than 600sf, it will be 576sf). I have done a lot of research and talked to the town a bunch of times (actually nice people, very willing to help & answer my questions), once I submit the plans and permit application I should be able to get approved.
I'm planning on doing the digging and forming before Troy comes to pour my slab.
After that I have been trying to figure out if we should buy a garage kit (there are a lot of options, some more cost effective than others...) or make a materials list from the plans and just make my own "kit".
I'm working on drawing up plans currently for what I want it to be.
Any suggestions/advice appreciated
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I would expect a kit to be very close in cost to raw materials at retail prices, that's been the case when I've sketched things out and compared.
I have not gone to a building supply place with a materials list and had them quote it, but if I were close to pulling the trigger on something I certainly would.
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You will need engineered stamped plans. A kit should have those. A 24x24 is common size. Should be easy to use some plans that are already done.
I would build a pole type building. Instead of framing walls on a slab.
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I've done a few foundations where the homeowner does a kit from HD or Lowe's, they drop off the lumber already cut to fit and trusses ready to go, other then that I've seen on Pinterest and whatnot ppl enclosing those aluminium carports with t&g 1x6
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for a detached garage in Brighton i do not actually need engineered stamped plans. that is one of the things that I asked the town about.
Getting a kit from HD was a lot more than any of the kits I have found online, that is why I'm working on drawings and a materials list to make my own to compare with.
Pole type buildings are when the vertical beams are cemented 4' into the ground correct? is that what yours was ryan?
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That is what mine was. Marks house is the same way.
That seems odd that they dont require plans to be engineered stamped.
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got it, I was going to ask Mark if his is.
I agree, but i specifically asked the town. works for me
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I dont think you want to actually put wooden posts in the concrete. better to pour concrete in the bottoms on the holes, let set and set the posts on top. then pack stone around them. this prevents the post sections that are encased in concrete from rotting due to trapped moisture. and why you see all posts that are encased in concrete rotted off right at ground level.
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if you use pressure treated posts the rotting is minimized. Morton Building has been doing that forever and there building are guaranteed for 50 years
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why not do slab then bolt it?
is it less expensive to do the pole style?
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This is the company that built Erik's pole barn: http://fingerlakesconstruction.com/
Call for a quote.
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thanks
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don't forget about assessment...
an additional structure will force an assessment in Brighton..
factor your additional tax amount into the plan..
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Flc is going to run a touch high price wise, but they have rediculous resources at their disposal. They're really pushing their SIPS panels so the pole barn business isn't their only focus anymore.
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I took our plans/sketches to FLC and they drew up the blueprints with the required engineering stamp. But that mainly for the house.
FLC augers the hole, pours concrete in the bottom, waits for it to set, puts the post on top, and backfills with the same soil. 50 yr warranty. No issues except for the soil settling at the posts (happens for years).
FLC was a great company to work with and did a quick and quality job. There was a little bit of a premium though compared to the local contractors or Amish/Mennonite crew. There was a pretty long lead time too.
Remember, it is a garage/shop and doesn't need to be perfect like you would want a house to be. (that's my $0.02 opinion)
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If the materials were on site, a group of capable friends could have a stick built structure standing covered in felt or tarp in a couple of weekends at the cost of pizza and beer/soda...
I could certainly offer a couple of Saturdays and I like rough framing.
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Remember, it is a garage/shop and doesn't need to be perfect like you would want a house to be. (that's my $0.02 opinion)
kind of what I thought, needs to last but doesn't need to be perfect like you said
If the materials were on site, a group of capable friends could have a stick built structure standing covered in felt or tarp in a couple of weekends at the cost of pizza and beer/soda...
I could certainly offer a couple of Saturdays and I like rough framing.
also thought about this and was hoping for it, I really want to do a lot of the work myself/with a little help from friends
I like the satisfaction along with the cost savings. 8) :D
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don't forget about assessment...
an additional structure will force an assessment in Brighton..
factor your additional tax amount into the plan..
yea thought about that too... best part of Brighton... haha
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If the materials were on site, a group of capable friends could have a stick built structure standing covered in felt or tarp in a couple of weekends at the cost of pizza and beer/soda...
I could certainly offer a couple of Saturdays and I like rough framing.
I bet 4 of us could have it roughed in a weekend
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i built mine. Most of the time I just needed one helper.
Dont be shy to look outside of the greater Rochester area. I got my materials from a place in PA. And they delivered.
Was less than half the cost of any place local and was engineered with better materials.
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a couple of the garage kits I've found are in Ohio, at least one of them will not deliver outside of Ohio...
I'm trying to look everywhere and anywhere
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I can get it from OHIO to NY
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Playing catch up here.
I can check with 84 lumber and santelli lumber. Both companies are big into garage kits.
Pole construction vs slab on grade really depends on what you want in the end.
Pole building @ 24 x 24 can be erected and closed in in one day with a capable crew. Leave the gravel floor until time or budget allows to pour a concrete slab.
Pole construction and steel siding and roof will most likely be more expensive overall.
Get a price from troy for the slab and then, a small group of us could bang out a garage of this size in a saturday. Roof it on sunday. Siding on monday
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/snf1z7ni4ne69yn/06191826_96_118961.PDF?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/snf1z7ni4ne69yn/06191826_96_118961.PDF?dl=0)
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Above is the quote from 84 Lumber.
It contains 2 seperate buildings so don't let the total at the bottom scare you.
Option one is 20x24 8ft ceiling
1- 7x16 overhead door
1- 3/0×6/8 steel man door
1 window
Option two is 24x24 8ft ceiling
2-9x7 overhead doors
1- 3/0×6/8 steel man door
1 window
Both quotes include 25 asphalt shingle roof, vinyl siding and all the necessary trim etc.
I would personally upgrade the exterior trim boards to PVC around the garage door but that is a topic for a later date.
I can confirm more items if you need.
Hope this helps.
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Items to consider...
Is an 8ft tall ceiling high enough?
7ft tall garage door tall enough?
Insulated overhead door?
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Erik thanks for all that info..
its close to what they have listed on their website for garages
I'll probably look again and talk to you about them
agreed on items to consider, i also have to make sure it kind of fits in or blends in...
glad its 2 quotes... almost fell over... haha
my jeep fits through a standard 7' door, i could find rollers if i really need at some point...
probably will never get a lift so 8' ceilings will probably be fine
i was planning on a insulated garage door (leaning toward 16x7 door)(could always insulate it later..)
I have requested more info from a couple of companies
I have already talked to Troy about the slab
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I've never heard of santelli lumber
I was also going to talk to rochester lumber once i have a materials list
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i built mine. Most of the time I just needed one helper.
Dont be shy to look outside of the greater Rochester area. I got my materials from a place in PA. And they delivered.
Was less than half the cost of any place local and was engineered with better materials.
what was said place called?
just because i'm curious, what size is your building?
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Since you're in NY and plan to work on vehicles in the garage - look into radiant heated floors.
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Since you're in NY and plan to work on vehicles in the garage - look into radiant heated floors.
I'll just use a salamander or similar
I can't justify the extra cost of that, as nice as it would be..
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/ppuz7gubgmeaf1w/Feature%20sheet%20-%20Trussed%20Garages.pdf?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/ppuz7gubgmeaf1w/Feature%20sheet%20-%20Trussed%20Garages.pdf?dl=0)
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Since you're in NY and plan to work on vehicles in the garage - look into radiant heated floors.
I'll just use a salamander or similar
I can't justify the extra cost of that, as nice as it would be..
If you can swing the relatively small cost of insulating the slab and tubing, do that now. That can sit dormant until you are ready to hook it up. There have been times over the last two winters I wished I had done it in the shop.
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I would really consider adding the tubing now rather than wishing you did.
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/ppuz7gubgmeaf1w/Feature%20sheet%20-%20Trussed%20Garages.pdf?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/ppuz7gubgmeaf1w/Feature%20sheet%20-%20Trussed%20Garages.pdf?dl=0)
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that's a little different than what they have on their website
Since you're in NY and plan to work on vehicles in the garage - look into radiant heated floors.
I'll just use a salamander or similar
I can't justify the extra cost of that, as nice as it would be..
If you can swing the relatively small cost of insulating the slab and tubing, do that now. That can sit dormant until you are ready to hook it up. There have been times over the last two winters I wished I had done it in the shop.
I'll look into it, anyone know companies that have the parts/systems?
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so, i know trusses are better, but what are the pros & cons?
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Engineered for strength and weight, easy and fast install. It used to be that 24' trusses are so common that they were ridiculously cheap.
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that's what i thought
sounds good to me
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there's a lot to radiant heated floors..
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Tubing, a pump, and a hot water heater. Boom. Glycol to protect from freezing and help corrosion. Boom.
Tapatalking in traffic
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160515/07266b1547c30ef8d4109eb141eb22a5.jpg) usually a bit more than that....
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That looks like a 5 or 6 zone system, not a low buck take the chill out of the shop system.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Tubing, a pump, and a hot water heater. Boom. Glycol to protect from freezing and help corrosion. Boom.
Tapatalking in traffic
don't forget the insulation under the slab, possibly moisture barrier too
that pic is definitely a bigger system
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That's only a 6 loop, 2 zone system. Don't go too few loops, it'll cool down the liquid enough to cause corrosion issues with your heater.
At our farm they had to put in a heat exchanger between the stove and floor due to too big of a temp drop with the large loops.
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That pic looks more complicated than it needs to be. In my system, the manifolds are in the floor for all the loops. Then a pump and zone valve feed the manifolds.
Definitely insulate the slab. It will respond quicker.
The concentration of loops is important too for "heat banding". Loops should only be certain lengths to prevent >20* temp drop. There should be plenty of information online to educate yourself.
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this is not for Paul. slope the slap properly and buy a 9$ squeegee. got a Kero tube heater or a 600$ mr buddy with LPG tank like i have. done.
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i agree with smike, the more i've read about the radiant floor stuff the more i think its more than i need/want to mess with.
i'll get a salamander for a while and then at some point maybe upgrade to a setup like smike's or erik's
most important, talking about it with Sasha, she agrees too, haha :D
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I got a buddy that builds drag cars and his only heat is radiant. He said it is cheaper to run but more cost up front.
I didn't like it. My feet were sweating and still had to wear a sweatshirt/jacket in the winter.
If I was to build a shop and money was no object/concern, I would put it in but keep it set to like 50/55. Then have a propane/natural gas forced air. No tool sweat, no dampness, etc.
It comes down to if using it for a work space or storage space.
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That's really odd matt. Ours is perfect. You can work in comfortable clothes all winter with no hot feet or cold body. The forced air shop on the other hand... cranked to 80 all the time so you boil, but feet freeze and god forbid you have to lay down.
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