M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on October 23, 2015, 08:47:26 PM
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So this thing sat and was a parts donor for a year or three before I picked it up.
It sat for 2+ years here.
I just cleaned out the cowl, nothing but nuts and pine needles. Half an office garbage can’s worth. Accelerator was dead with more than expected codes set so I was digging for chewed things.
Fixed a vacuum line and 2 wires at the ecu. All good! Ready for solder in daylight and then looking for a bad power steering line, doing rear brakes that fell apart, and figuring out tires, wheels, and making a list for whatever else is missing. Also need to clean the intake, fully block egr, and reassemble charge piping, intake and headlights.
Shame I don’t have the list before Saturday morning for a j&j run. I think wiper arms and a light switch may be the only musts. Maybe a front turn signal. Cowl covers, hvac intake from cowl (chewed through) would be nice.
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/23/93e90eb4f31fae60fe9f2b0065d0e792.jpg)
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EGR is soooo gross.
Got the cooler and intake off before I left. Wish I had some b100 to soak the intake in. Will need to chip out the ports and vacuum them.
I don't know how these motors possibly last with contamination like that feeding back into them.
Coolant is bypassed, just need to cut out a block off plate.
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Got the engine buttoned back up. Took about half a gallon of soot out of the intake manifold. Chipped and vacuumed out the intake ports on the head too.
Used the turbo to blow out the intercooler. Got a mouse, fuck. Took it back apart and didn’t find anything else interesting. Must have just gotten stuck down that tube and couldn’t get back out.
Need a power steering pressure line, leaking at the rack. Need to do rear brakes, have all that. Need to put some mirrors on. The mule mirrors may fit well enough, I’m tempted L*
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i have your VW caliper tool, i can bring to club meeting wed.
i wish i just cut my line and swedglocked in a regular hydralic line. cant get it to stop leaking at rack, im way past tightening scared to break it.
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mine is rotten at the last turn next to the rack, no clean line to attach to.
You must have some debris in the flare, or something cracked?
I'm not liking what mine looks like at all to try and get it off the rack, looks straight above the K member which is like 8" wide there. May ask for some lift time for that. Should be drivable once I get the rear brakes done. And see if the tires hold air, I think all but the spare are flat. Need to look at my wheels and go shopping, can't recall if they are 13 or 14.
I'm drum, don't need the tool. That's a MkIV and up thing.
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they are 16mm and 18mm banjo fittings on mine with copper washers on both sides. its been dumped and cleaned, assembled twice. its a messy pain
someone at work suggested using the old aluminum washers that were in the oem one.
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Mine is a banjo at the pump and an o ring at the rack. Either way, it'll leak slower.
On diesel injection stuff I've had good luck with all 3 flavors of banjo sealing washers (Al, copper, AL/rubber) as long as everything was clean. There has to be a burr or crack somewhere. Shit is SO annoying to track down.
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Brakes need more bleeding, low pedal and shit brakes. Hopefully that’s all. Rr wheel cyl was bad but swapped in like 2 minutes. Bolt off bolt on. Friction material shucked from fluid exposure. lr shoes looked like new, but hardware was installed wrong and had a couple broken springs.
I’ve never seen more complicated drums than these. Insane Germans.
Won’t debut at the meeting tomorrow but it’s close. It’s also really a handful without power steering. Especially with the wide low pro tires it has up front now.
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Brakes are good. Just picked up 4 80+% hankook snows on knockoff BBSes.
Steering. Mirrors. Weld exhaust.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/01/60e67f599d14edc27a26f792743dd7d3.jpg)
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bastard! i have been looking for snows!
are you 100mm bolt pattern?
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4x100 I believe. I know the TDI and 2.0 got the littlest brakes on that generation, but not sure alloy 14s clear.
I have some steel and alloy 14s you could test (tires and wheels are multiplying again). Haven't verified bolt pattern on the steelies yet.
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Mirrors done. Not power but mounted and looking sharp.
Weld exhaust. Power steering line.
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10 mile test drive. All good!!
Exhaust needs better weld on tailpipe. Super thin where it rotted through, go figure.
Noticed some crusties on the radiator. No wet leaks up to temp and back down, but its a time bomb of some flavor.
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Light diesels are getting plugged in now. Fuck.
Putting EGR back together for inspection I guess. Unless I find a way to fool it. Don't want to wait fur a tune
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o really? crap
mine will stay off for 20-30 miles if you actually clear it and drive it normal.
my sticker was up in July, already let go once, so i figure im only out a couple $ and its really not worth it
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As of 7/1/12 apparently. Yours should have needed a plug in already?
Mine stays off for 2 driving segments. Working some resistor magic. If I can play with adaptation I may be done already or I might need more resistor than the 1k I put in.
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I might have this think licked. Driven about 10x as far and 5x as many key cycles without a CEL as before. Lower ambient temps but I don't think that matters.
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It's all bc of those computer cheaters.
Get ready for way stricter diesel emissions
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cool, if anything can be leveraged to mine, id like to do the same. my sticker was up in July. will be wrong color after DEC and need to get it going
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I only learned things related to fooling for disabled EGR. You can twist your MAF to reduce the flow it sees and be golden.
If it's from glow plugs you just need to fix it. I remember you did some work on that and made something better though?
Let me know your codes...
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i read them again, it only had EGR something before. hopefully i didnt make any new codes with the GP bi pass.
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You bypassed the stock glow plug relay and now manually trigger them? Ecu probably knows that and won't like it. We may need to restore factory setup at least partially.
EGR should be easy to defeat with MAF twist if it's a flow comparison issue. Reportedly makes the MAF live longer too.
I'm free Saturday afternoon and all day Sunday. Hopefully get a sticker on mine first thing Saturday.
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seems odd it could sense resistance but not power them lol
ill have to read them. probably why the CEL stays on 100% now instead of 80%
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Got my new turn signal switch swapped in on lunch today. Beast is 100% now, switch fixed the 4 ways as expected. Just needs a sticker stuck. Saturday first thing...
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Stickered
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yeah!!!
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Old thread but saw it in my subscribed. Took I think it was $1500 for this with a spare set of wheels (free from monster jam) a couple weeks ago. I don’t think I did another thing to it since this thread. Other than tired battery BS the thing was rock solid.
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