M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on March 01, 2015, 11:19:38 AM
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Needs: ebrake freed up, new alt belt, fix/ figure spaghetti shifter issue. Looks like loose bushings all over.
Check timing belt, plugs, clutch cable, choke. Cold start was very difficult.
Insure it
Plate it?
Paint it
Parts Notes:
Toro cross-reference stuff? http://minitrucktalk.com/threads/interesting-mitsu-engine-info.934/#post-5464
full parts breakdown, english: http://www.partsbase.org/mitsubishi/mighty-mits-mmna-us-1988-1995-u14t-qhpdl2m/
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so it's stuck in reverse since I parked it at home the first time.
The shitty shifter seems to have made me fight the shift finger right out of the reverse fork leaving it with reverse engaged. Found a parts drawing that shows how the mechanism works. Probably have to pull extension housing off the trans to fix. It's like a rear shifted Toy case with the linkages coming in the back side. Hopefully simple matter of clean it up, drop the driveshaft, I think pull the rear trans mount, split the case, shift it out of reverse with the shift rail, and be all set.
Just what I was hoping for with a new purchase!
Mini - 0
Ranger - 1 (it runs/drives/starts/forwards and backs all on its own)
mowzer - (-1) (minor electrical fire last night. undiagnosed. I ripped the battery out and let it sit. fawk me.)
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(http://static3.megazip.ru/M/d13/d13a38695f29f7fce2345448bc45546d.png)
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/02/b1bf7e09f7dd8853905807f63bc4fc46.jpg)
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Ooh, I just had a thought - I wonder if I can coax the reverse fork back through the reverse light switch hole. that'd be pretty ideal!
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can we see pictures of this thing or just the broken bits?
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once it's back out of the mini garage :)
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pulled the switch, can pry but not moving easily.
mild concern about getting the linkages set properly for reassembly, but I think I will have to split it to fix it :(
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I can only imagine the amount of stuff you are going to accumulate by the time you are 50. You are going to need some serious property :)
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Kim's dad has like 1200+ acres in the north country.... I just need barns :)
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Details?
Manuf model year engine 4wd tire size etc...
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Kim's dad has like 1200+ acres in the north country.... I just need barns :)
Put a ring on it and let's go camping and cut some trails.. WTF. That's like what I'm looking for..
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:o
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Drove it to work. Sorry no pics yet. No ponies and lots of oil smoke. Made it through the snow on the trail bridges better than I expected. Not sure how it'll do with softer snow on warmer temps.
Stalls a lot when cold. Probably need to bump idle up a bit. Reminded me why carbs suck...
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trail bridges? :o
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Needs: ebrake freed up, new alt belt, fix/ figure spaghetti shifter issue. Looks like loose bushings all over.
Check timing belt, plugs, clutch cable, choke. Cold start was very difficult.
Insure it
Plate it?
Paint it
Tapatalking in traffic
you skipped all of these things and just made it move haha
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How wide, long, tall, and weight is this thing
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Roughly 5' wide, 11' long, I'd guess around 6' high with the high cab, maybe a bit more. should be around 1300#, probably around 70/30 front/rear bias. Once all else is dealt with, I might think about bobbing it to 8.5' long to go across a trailer or truck bed, if that's something that would help out in places.
TONS of oil smoke on cold start and at high R's. not yet sure how bad consumption actually is but it burns a bunch. Must be a 571 fleet thing? Hopefully the other fleet members don't learn from those two motors.
The starter only clicked this morning. unknown issue at this point. I did top off oil before I tried to start it - if valve seals are completely shot I maybe could have hydro locked it with oil? Suuuuper long shot, I highly doubt that. fully charged jump box at lunch and see what it does. Battery is supposedly a year old but isn't stamped. Could be a stuck starter or a stuck motor though it was running fine when I shut it off, and coolant is full & in good shape visually.
bah.
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this thing is sweet!
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good purchase all around so far!
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um hello.. a picture would be nice sir..
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we've all seen it on the facebook :P
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not on the book...
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then no pic for you! lol
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Oh lord. A project already.
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to tide you over, here's the fb pic
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10390015_10100349115296978_5133722986831483892_n.jpg?oh=8a84fb32e21a5ece098169cf3bb82ad7&oe=558F88C9)
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/03/f69c1b177acda74173d169c7592f07e8.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/03/95de257fe2053c9fbadbe710ffa88f37.jpg)
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What's it have for a motor? How is parts availability?
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I think I'm finding that all "mighty mits" models (this is a '93 model year of such) have the older 550cc wedge head 3cyl. JDM units past 1990 have 660cc hemi head motors.
3 speed wide ratio trans (4th is locked out and may or may not have splines on the main shaft under it) and is governed to 25mph. No tach. Speedo non-op. Temp and fuel gauges seem to work. Carbureted. Running better on fresh fuel today. Needed some extra load on the electrical to crank so there's probably a dirty connection somewhere.
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All parts available in japan, no issues other than shipping & waiting. Getting things here is a little tougher but there are several distributors who keep stock, and some random things cross - like same motor used in Toro commercial mowers for several years apparently so easy to get carb parts, plug wires, probably rebuild parts...
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actually looks in good shape and not rotted out.
what are the university rules on this again?
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what are the university rules on this again?
LOL...
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nailed it.
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no i thought you said your department was allowed tech vehicles or something that have parking spots, whats your point of doing this....
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the idea is to make it an indispensable tech vehicle to the department and hope the actual permission follows...
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right now it's still a little too "special" (in the way the janitor is special) to just hang a set of keys in keywatcher and let anyone use it. maybe in warm weather that won't be the case but for now it sure is. I bumped idle up a bit and didn't stall at all on the way here though. That's a large improvement over last night. It also idled the whole time I was home at lunch, warming up... I'm sure that didn't hurt.
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anyone want to start a pool on impound day?
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Slap "Maintenance Vehicle" on the side of it and it will not get a second look.
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closest date or price-is-right rules? does a wheel lock count as 'impound'?
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Ill give it to April 15th
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March 25
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march 18th
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April 7th
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Yesterday.
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March 6th
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March 11.
Then the ticket for "too many unregistered vehicles" and "operating an unlicensed auto sales facility" shortly after that.
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tough crowd!
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March 27
What's top speed
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any progress with insurance or paper work?
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the paper work sounds like the hard part
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i bet you could get a Maine plate with an email and 100$
they would let me do it for my plow truck
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Tell me more? Haven't worked on it yet.
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Put timewarner or RGE stickers. No one will ever look twice.
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UR stickers... Neither of this utilities would ever be on campus.
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Please fill out the one page quote form and email back to delma@staabagency.com for a quote once Delma or Natasha get the quote the can call you or email you the total amount due and what is need to complete the registration
The State of Maine will only register vehicles that are 1990 and up, and 10,000 lbs. or less
if the vehicle is a 1990 thru 1994 the title needs to already be in your name, if the vehicle is a 1995 or newer we will need the original title
any questions please call the Staab Agency 207-549-7541
thank you
Kathy
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just call them, they would do my 1979 truck, and the title is not in my name, its signed by sellar. It seems their posted rules are flexible, and they just help you to get it done.
you have to get insurance first though. that was easy in my case.
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Sounds a little sketchy for POV (personally owned vehicle) but seems a decent option if a maine llc happened to own it. and my trailers. and everything else...
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LLC would make you a company as in commercial?
no thanks!
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just throw an orange triangle on the back... legal
http://www.safeny.ny.gov/slowmove.htm
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might be on to something there as
"Maintenance machinery"
no chance in being legit agricultural
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9.9 out of 10 people seeing that thing if properly marked will look the other way....
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still a smoker at high revs, otherwise running well.
triangle will be here monday. just ordered valve seals. picked up a compression tester last night. hopefully have a chance to take a look at that this weekend. I doubt it'll be good news but hopefully it won't be bad news.
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Ha ha. Triangle Prob is the safest bet. Throw a traffic cone or two in the bed. No worries.
No registration means no tickets!
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and no way to located which impound lot! lol
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valve seals NLA from that source. hrmph.
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hopefully correct seals and a replacement turn signal ordered. we'll see if those do better than NLA.
My other vehicles are through LibMut. They won't bind insurance on a greymarket vehicle. Guess I'll be trying State Farm, and failing that, going to Progressive. Other paperwork is all done to see if NY will plate the thing, I just need insurance.
orange triangle on it since lunch ;)
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It's like the triforce I tell you....
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∆
∆ ∆
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progressive online is the best. they will insure anything for 45 days. after 6 recreations of the policy, your are grandfathered in.
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State farm insured.
Need a VIN rubbing and weight slip to process title/reg since there is no title and it is a short VIN. Then, we'll see if Albany kicks it back after that.
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nice, progress
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Checking out some 13" wheels and tires at 1400 tomorrow. Minimum ramp length to get on the tow rig flatbed is 8' and that may still have breakover issues. Cheap 6' ramps going back to HF :(
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Ordered some 3mm spacers for the front. No true rub but appears to be exactly 0 clearance from rim edge to spring cup on strut and from sidewall to the first couple coils.
Currently big n littles. Studded 185/80r13 on the back and all season 175/70r13 on the front. Have two matching 175/70 loose to swap once ice season is 100% done.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/15/43b2da901f2f4c4763443caca2dd75c2.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/15/049ff623079c49ae6dc31646bc2f84fb.jpg)
Could remove the flares now and look JDM!
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/15/398cea1c17dbf6cfa6aa24615e3e9eec.jpg)
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I want to sit in the bed just to take up half the load limit >.>
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1480# with full tank of fuel. Thanks to Smike for bringing me a floor jack ::)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/15/b4f359881a9da07490cbcb012ff83020.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/15/2d248a2fb1d017fdfeab56de4e426bf2.jpg)
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:o
:-[
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oh myyyyy'
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Hahaha
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Lol
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Poor little guy looks so sad.
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thing is sweet. took it like a champ.
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Mini bro class?
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Dmv doesn't accept math.
Scale ticket for X with no evidence of what was on the scale means something, but Y - Z = X is no good. Hrmph.
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you tried to pull it on one pad and they cant measure 1300lbs?
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thats so funny- they will accept a weigh ticket that you could tell the scale people to put anything, truck name, or vin number on it though
i had to do it for my 4500
completely random
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What they'll hopefully accept: (http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/18/956480d295b7c8e83419806291a71597.jpg)
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Apparently all you need to register something down here is cash. According to a neighbor, if you have a photo of a witness taken "mid build" (like the state Mark's Willy is in) your home built can be registered by bringing that witness in with you. You have to affix a vin like tag to the vehicle but...
I suddenly see a mini truck in my future.
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Good to go until Albany says otherwise. Now I can get parking tix :(
I shall call him Gus
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/18/ec4d39880078c5ac825200eb1311642a.jpg)
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(http://pix.iemoji.com/sbemojix2/0474.png)
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nice work mike
cant believe they did it for you
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Albany could kill the whole thing - NH probably shouldn't have registered it in the first place, and it's deep into grey here, so we'll see.
I can't wait to get the valve seals replaced and hopefully kill the oil smoke.
It needs front amber and rear red side marker lights on it in case it gets inspected for compliance... It also needs a broken rear turn signal lens replaced, a rear plate light installed, and the backup light fixed for inspection. Speedo cable or speedo is broken. Governor isn't disabled, but 4th gear is permanently locked out on my transmission so even though it's governed to 25, it'll probably only do 30-35 at redline if I bypass that (which from what I read requires doing a standalone ignition, bypassing a fuel pump relay, and make a new distrib holddown to set advance properly - or from what I was told at purchase, swapping in the distributor he gave me).
I love tooling around in the little thing, not so sure how I'll feel about that with normal size traffic around me.
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You are not allowed to name your own junk...
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I didn't name it. DMV named it.... :)
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Gusgus says "bring it on Albany!"(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/18/ad2ba0916485692ff8b5a2ba47542222.jpg)
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not to suprised. iirc didnt a guy in the club have one of these he would drive to wp, he would show up on street tires and put atv tires on when he got there
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Good stuff mike.
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Yes, wheeled a101 with him
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He knew nothing about how it got plated.
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(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/19/64d153cbf71a82d5e17a3fe47f7bc60c.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Wtf don't give him ideas.
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in sure there are parts out back!
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Do not need...
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in sure there are parts out back!
True...
But: do not need.
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161-151-145 compression. Not great but enough that I expect valve seals to fix 'er up.
Plugs & mfgd socket
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/22/70d79eb6c173338898fe7e1165ac447d.jpg)
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That's a sweet tool!
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If I had a head gasket (and timing belt fir good measure-ohc), I'd be doing this on the bench. 4/6 done. Serious pain in the ass. Hardest pair should be done - like 2.5 hr to do the middle pair, right under the rear cab wall.
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Done!
Night drive around my long block through the park and back was still giving some smoke but it smells like rich mix, not oil. Starts easier and runs better w fresh plugs and clean 5w30.
Total pain, but I figured out some tricks so it got easier.
Clean/ new air filter next. Need to pull it and see if a spectre unit matches up. Air box was deleted so no stock lookup.
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In 2 weeks I've burned 3.5 gallons. Hah.
Haven't looked at speedo to see where it's broken, so no clue on miles. Ballpark 60-70? Should be about 6 miles per day I've driven it plus some extra running and a trip to main st.
Smoking starts 2/3 to redline. good to 20mph w current gears. Wish enabling 4th was easy. I'd drive this all over but 20mph just isn't quite enough for primary city steets and I don't want to be a mosquito machine.
Haven't found any good swap options. Not putting real money into it anyway until I feel a bit more secure w a title in hand. Be that a swap of any sort or re ringing the motor.
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What HP the engine is rated at? Maybe 30?
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Gm van drivetrain. Done
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~45hp
Auto parts are too big. anything bigger than about a 1 litre is going to have to stick through the bed or something.
Kim needed to move it after I left today. I gave her a quick tour before I left and later got this :)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/28/bc6f71b58d41777def90ac0c37c12551.jpg)
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She's a keeper
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She's a keeper
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Swapped out the 5w30 for some 20w50 racecar oil and cut the smoking in half or less.
Still clearly needs a rebuild but it's happy enough to drive for a while I think.
I knocked the partly broken driver mirror glass out last week :( Funny very convex thing. Haven't brought it to my favorite glass man yet to see if he can make something fit in it.
No sticker yet, but I might drive it that far down Elmwood now once I my tail light lens comes in. That's been a month now, so hopefully within the next 3 weeks. Maybe it'll be a race between NY title and tail light lens?
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This vehicle needs to be in KOH pits 2016.
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Snapped the clutch cable running around for work on weds. Longest replacement I could find in stock with the right ends is about 6†too short :(
Gonna have to use some cable clamps and a piece of the old cable, and make a new retainer for the trans end. Bah.
No replies on my favorite drivetrain donor. May contact a guy with a dismantled goldwing trike down by Philly next week. Would rather not go that far but options for things with reverse that I can make talk to a solid rear axle are ridiculously limited. It’s a big thing in the minicar and ultralight buggy/ rail world. Was doing some reading yesterday.
The legit f-n-r boxes are $1300-2500!
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YES!!(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/c7b409fd9a26cbc01512e55da764408c.jpg)
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this is great
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15/32 instead of 11/32 is the right belt. Cured squeal! Need to go a smidge longer if I have to replace again.
Clutch cable temperm fixed. Drilled motor mount for cable trap and used 5-6†of old cable to reach clutch arm.
Hackey, but I’ll take saving $120 or waiting weeks for jdm via mitsu dealer.
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/16/22ffc2749e95d762c1a1dc105e1f6da1.jpg)
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Congrats on title
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title=money to be spent...
congrats... another project..
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Yup! Makes me feel better about drivetrain shopping. Though, the more I think about it, a stock motor without a limited transmission would really be more than enough.
Lack of real reverse sucks if I want to be able to move trailers with it and such.
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Canada and Mexico Craig's list
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I watch kijiji, never seem to be parting them.
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That would be cool with a tdi and a sami trans. ;)
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would need some counter weights up front because the drive line would have to be in the bed :)
is the speed thing a gear issue or power issue?
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Gearing. 4th is disabled internally. Gear is present but collar is solid instead of splined for the shift dog to engage. Also electronicly governed rpm and speed limits in place. Much easier to fix than the trans.
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2 speed rearend
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Any 2 speed rear I've ever seen would dwarf the entire vehicle.
ALso, having looked casually into them when thinking about dumpbus building and RPMs, all 2 speed rears seem to be geared with low gears, and then a lower option. like a 5.x and a 8.x ratio. nothing like a 2-3:1 and a 5:1.
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sami case in it backwards!
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lift it and bigger tires
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sammi full drivetrain could be fun. I think there's enough room to keep it pretty low on solid axles. I don't want to be without it for that long though! :)
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:facepalm:
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#justjealous
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* lugs and 19.5's
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I see the resemblance...
(http://cdn.mkimg.carview.co.jp/minkara/userstorage/000/005/546/856/1c58e8d4de.jpg)
(http://www.motorstown.com/images/peterbilt-372-04.jpg)
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sammi full drivetrain could be fun. I think there's enough room to keep it pretty low on solid axles. I don't want to be without it for that long though! :)
I know a guy with all the parts.
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Look at these.
http://stgeorge.craigslist.org/snw/5062318025.html
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Awesome.
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I would see if he has a tranny and be done...
or just skid one up and ship it.. ::)
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New toad. Hoping to drag it over and get stickers for it and the eagle tmw.
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/23/7e9a9aada53ec83b8a71a4fbd6de4a48.jpg)
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Is that my tow bar???
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Had to make longer arms for it, but it’s still around... only mount points are all the way out at the edges. 36†arm was too short. Made some 48s.
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that's awesome...
dragged my YJ up to Rochester back in 2007 when I moved with my 1998 5.9..
5.5 hr drive that took 7 :-\
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tow bars are for the birds and look 100% death trap to me, i would never ever use one with anything i cared about on either end.
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tow bars are for the birds and look 100% death trap to me, i would never ever use one with anything i cared about on either end.
yup, agree....
worst drive of my life...
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Towed a 1967 pickup from TX to NY via tow bar behind a 1993 Suburban.
Not fun.
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I think you have the the right combo for towbars. The big RVs towing cars/jeeps seem to be fine with the tow bar. HUGE mass difference though.
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Huge mass difference is key. I think the mini is a potentially great toad.
I flat towed an engineless quad cab 2500 Ram up from NC with my truck when I bought it. It was fine when everything was fine, it was a white knuckle expirience on the road and a broken headlight in a parking lot when it started snowing. Absolutely horrible.
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Anyone have any ideas on cutting what's missing on this gear?
(http://i.imgur.com/kU1Xv2c.jpg)
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wait, the spacer is in place of 4th or the spacer is blocking 4th from being engaged?
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you need the syncro set on the right to look the the set on the left.
i think i understand that is part of the gear that the spline isnt cut hmmm.
if i had 2 or three of them id take a cut off wheel too it, but success might be limited. probably just try and get the right gear to swap onto your shaft that's cut already
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I was thinking the same on a cutoff wheel.
the splines aren't cut on the gear. should look like the others.
getting the right gear or even a part number for it isn't easy. There's another guy finally interested in working on it, may make some progress.
I'd like to repower, but I'd rather have a 4th gear if it can be done. Would keep the smoke much more manageable if I can keep RPMs lower. And would give me a workable ultra light duty RWD trans to adapt to another motor if I find one.
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how hard is it to take apart the trans to hand one gear thats cut already, and the other one thats not to a machine shop, and how much is it worth to you? 200-300$? not sure a legit shop could do that for less. mill and an indexed angle turn table manually? maybe something Matt M could do?
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Yeah it's not worth real shop rates to me. Probably worth less than $200 to me.
I haven't torn down the transmission. As small as it is I can't imagine it's a horrible job to get it down that far. I'd definitely have to pay attention since I've never taken apart a manual trans before.
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What's the manufacture of the teams? If New Venture I can check my gears to see if something happens to be the same. Unlikely.
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If you can, measure the OD of the part that needs to be cut
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are synchros available for it?
id pull the gear, clamp a syncro to it as a guide and go nuts with a cut wheel in a controlled jiged manner, then taper the teeth as best as possible. worst you have is something that grinds when attempting to go into 4th.
maybe something can be welded from spencers pile you your gear if it was spun down then pressed together / welded (using your gear)
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Good ideas.
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Needs more left-right support. Angle brackets underneath are surprisingly stout fore-aft.
I want to make a mount for the right front corner as well, probably a more common home for it - but more work needed there than here to span the engine cover.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/05/ede3a9718451245230457e5afb5c1868.jpg)
Also, I need a third AC for the garage!
This will be it for today, gotta be at work at 1800.
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Fuck halfassing it. Done. Structure welded to the frame under the bed. Well, maybe birdshitted? But it’ll do.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/05/53675078d3d1bcb292ca8afd83dee9de.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/05/f5f780392fd41aca7c47d3ff654a475e.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/05/b3c90ac4c340a7af393a1a9181525dd2.jpg)
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Donor motor found. Check it out Sunday on my way to Cleveland, still in the car – so I even get to test drive it! Pinto 2 L.
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1.
Crane looks perfect where it sits. Nice counter balance to driver and no blind spot issue.
2.
Have a lot of literature on pinto engines. Use to be a common flat fender swap
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now having looked at this, thrown a tape measure on it, and heard it run, I have a couple of questions you may know something about:
– Are there oil pan options available? This appears to have a front sump pan, and it appearsto be a few inches taller than the drawings I looked at indicated
- should there be a timing belt cover?
- i'm sure it will not be an issue to find, but any info on verifying camshaft timing, setting spark timing, and verifying spark advance…
67,000 miles, And almost clean enough to eat off of. Previous owner screwed up timing, and it is a stubborn start
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I will also need to whip up an intake horn, and poop out a airbox. The stock round air filter housing above the valve cover will be no good for me
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Ordered intake horn, motor still isn't out of the car. Glad I'm not in a rush but I'm starting to get annoyed.
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motor out. he lost my number. picking it up this weekend.
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/20/ce7c2ef884394d549bb11b79fc930903.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/20/141cd2a57ffa116ef2ce2c656f71f7ab.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/20/e957f9bb67fdeddc1015aa092d8ad8a1.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/20/7fdccf24b29b6c3751d05c2d25a8f8f4.jpg)
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whats that out of?
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the '74 Pinto in the first two pics is the donor.
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Trans looks long
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sure does.
found no options for a bolt-on shortening option.
may be in the market for a T4 or T5 instead of this FOG, it appears that the same bolt pattern lasted all the way up through the Rangers we race.
Initial searching makes it look like it's a 1pc mainshaft that runs out the trans through the full length of that tail housing, I would expect to find diameter issues in trying to shorten that output and respline it, but I may dig into what I could do for a "hack and tap" with smaller splines. Sucks that the shifter is ALL the way back too, but if I hack the extension I should be able to move it all the way up to the back of the case. Top shift or rear shift is under the bed either way but it would be nice not to be into the damn fuel tank.
More garage reorg tomorrow afternoon, and some actual measuring and comparing.
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Yup, too long. Would be just right to put in pivoting front mounts and no driveshaft. Fuck.
Also much taller than the drawings I looked at, would give me 2†to the ground under the pan at stock height. At best.
Gonna have to see what other options I can find.
I could push it forward a decent bit especially if I move the radiator. Up/down I could shorten the pan a bit but seat clearance is the limit to going up and thats complicated au best.
Decided to look at wiring anyway, can’t get it to crank. Was going to grab a coil and confirm timing now that I adjusted the distributor. If I’m going to sell it I’d like to make it run “on the standâ€
Was expecting to give the starter 12v and have it crank. Looks like external solenoid setup. Instead it just arcs like a dead shor. And does nothing. Wtf? It started the car 3 weeks ago. I saw it.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/1553b7a226ce38647c9e5b661a568a4f.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/22/e907e55c7f6a062dfc8dc7bb79c4e786.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
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what about a 22re with 5 spd and t-case? or samurai?
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Popular Willys swap
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Sammi/ tracker maybe. I think a 22r is similar size to this. Need samples and a measuring tape...
Tapatalking in traffic
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Couple of 4cyl GM engines you can size up ;)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170119/dd6931b4949d9ce9bf606e34ea46ac9a.jpg)
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perfect.. will fit on trailer nice with a NE CJ :D
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170119/dd6931b4949d9ce9bf606e34ea46ac9a.jpg)
that looks like a really nice example!
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I dropped mine through my trailer once. they're SKINNY
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hopefully picking up a 4cyl microsquirt next week, then I don't need to F with the VW ECU, and can learn some things about maybe going that route on the big cars next time around.
I wanted to tackle this last year at this time. This year maybe I can actually do it. Almost all the parts collected.
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Went to court today in Manassas VA (overweight, no cdl, no ifta, no name on door). All charges dismissed. Phew.
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Several of us might love to hear the details on that if sharable.
Congrats!
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Deleted, will post in members only forum later
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Poked at this a little bit last night. Trying to firm up some bad plans. I think I need to build an intake manifold or at least part of one (it’s a split mani) I could use the engine height reduction (intake comes over the valve cover) and I think I also need to change to a cable throttle with IAC instead of DBW with the microsquirt.
Trying to decide on a couple other things
Current plan is that center diff (vw transaxle) will be open; full time 4x4, but really a one wheel wonder. I don’t think welding the center is a good idea; wheelbase is too short and pavement will be majority of use. Maybe put a lunchbox in the amc20 rear and call it a day? If it sucks, figure out what to do from there be it locking the front too and/or welding the center and doing lockout hubs in the front. Driveline disconnects look to be $6-800 and that’s just not worth it to me. Though a locker or two and converting to lockout hubs probably come close to that. But it’s $0 to start which a disconnect is not.
Rear suspension I’m figuring on reusing factory leaf springs. They seem fine. Either factory shocks or put some fresh bushings in the Edelbrocks.
Front suspension is what I’m really stuck on. 5 link with Astro power steering box and 2.0 air shocks is what I’m kinda leaning towards. Relatively KISS & cheap. Not planning for long travel. 8†would be huge. I bet it has 4 now. Other option is some leaf springs but I always make fun of leaf spring solid axle swaps, approach angle never works out - but the front axle is set pretty far back.
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Ask one of Jokinens to come up with a locker for the transaxle? Hmm.
Need that much of suspension travel? What about use some trailer leaf springs?
What front axle you’re going to use?
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narrow track d30 & amc 20, procured.
could get a really good limited slip for the transaxle, similar price range of around 800 iirc. no used market for them.
light trailer springs could do.
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2k axle weight is lightest double eye spring listed. could possibly lose a leaf. that may be nearly perfect on a 4 leaf pack.
need to see how leaf springs could lay out under there too, but this is at least some length options to think on. thanks for the idea! Wildly cheaper to try than linking it. OTOH strut towers are fine coil/shock structures and I have frame to work from behind there. Not much structure from the footwell forward. (don't crash.)
https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Suspension-hs-2000_lbs-sz-Double_Eye_Springs-pc-Leaf_Springs.aspx
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Top speed of 30mph at 5000 rpm. ;D
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what is the purpose of this unit? snow plow? pit vehicle?
i dont get it.
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Pits. Daily. Town runner that fits in joe if I’m lucky. Probably plow if I find a light duty 7-8’ blade like yours on the zj.
Current top speed is 27 with a smoke screen.
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Have you done calculations to see what top speed will be?
My transaxle buggy would do about 20mph at a reasonable rpm. 5.38 (I think) and 37" tires.
If you do not weld the transaxle diff it will be like an AWD car, probably good enough for described uses.
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2.72 gears. 3.4 R&P. 0.756 o.d. (I think. Could be 0.837)
Not fully settled on tire size and don’t yet know how happy a vw 2.0 is screaming. Calcs are one thing, going deaf or fearing rod exit is another. Motor redlines at 6300.
Hoping for a comfortable 55. On 33s (if I did my math right just now) that’s 4000 rpm.
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4300 if it’s the taller 5th.
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I have a CJ D30 here with locking hubs & disk brake. Possibly free (George's)
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Ready for a scrap run. Probably won’t do tomorrow in the rain.
Everything I own is way expired. Probably flat tow this to scrap, drop for inspection, then get reg renewed, and once that’s set, cycle through everything else for inspections. Probably plate the TDI while I’m at it. Why not spend it like I’ve got it. Maybe do glass in the 1.8t and make it a step closer to perfect too.
I hate inspections.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181006/38faff65d64651866b6d6dc88a6ef3d1.jpg)
My d30 is disk and full time. I plan to start with the simpler awd setup and go from there if I’m not happy with it. Stock with atv drive tires and an open diff this thing was a surprising snow monster.
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Extra ready.
Anyone every try to buy scrap from metalico? I don’t know if that’s a thing they do. Would love to buy a hundredish pounds of lead for the brolite rear bumper for scrap price easily. Watched way too much about lead smelting on YouTube this weekend and it seems an easy thing to try. Metal funnel and dump some molten mess in a couple drilled holes.
Hundred pounds per gallon.
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new level of stupid.
turn it off.
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pffff
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way less effort and more practical to just use steel at 2/3s the density of Lead... especially if your only talking 100lbs. shit thats like two 1 ton rotors......
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Papered.
Still smokes like a tire fire. Didn’t fix itself while off the road.
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Needs more Lucas?
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Didn’t work in an hour of run time.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181022/8fcbb147c184ae87dca8bd61e88ba043.jpg)
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Run thicker oil?
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It would have to be gear oil. 20w50 didn’t help.
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The only bottle that fixes problems is alcohol
And that usually causes more.
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I would have been beyond shocked if it made any difference whatsoever.
It’s a motor I have no love for so I’m happy to test potions in it.
Stuff just looked like Lucas.
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A lot of people swear by the blue devil brand of stuff.
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I used blue devil to fix my old mini van head gasket leak. It worked.... but only kept the van a few months after trying it. So can not attest to the longevity of the fix. For comparison its was leaving a white smoke screen behind it while running. After it didnt smoke at all. It was like 4 hour job when i did it if i recall correct
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Blue Devil doesn't make snake oil for ring seal/compression. Just for head gaskets.
My problems are stuck rings/ scored walls.
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Lucas is just petroleum goop with no additive package. Use to thicken oil when 20w50 isn’t enough. Just an attempt to keep oil thicker at temp so it doesn’t get by. It’s only use is for milking stuff along IMO but that’s the goal here.
If rings may be stuck, I’d do MMO or Seafoam. Mercedes diesels are known for sticking rings from carbon. Wagon and 240D have both had rough running shakes remedied with this treatment and then synthetic oil after. Takes time though.
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Sea foam in crankcase?
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Sucked through the brake Booster
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Sucked through vacuum line won’t really reach rings. Right in the crankcase is where I’ve used it.
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I may have a goal of either fix or kill via snake oils. Could be fun.
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Absolutely. I’d not dump Lucas, Seafoam, etc into crankcase of anything I cared about and/or wasn’t on its last legs.
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I’m a Lucas believer. It seems to give an extra moment of cushion in case of lost oil pressure.
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...in a 5.3 you don’t really care about that actually has a chance of seeing zero oil pressure. You’d never run it in your TDI or any Cummins you own is my point. 99.99% of people buying it are throwing money at diluting the additive package in their oil :)
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Lucas helped got the dumpbus home after rings vacated #6 and I was having minor issues keeping oil inside of it
so not-not in any Cummins I own ;)
But point taken.
It goes in motors-at-risk
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today's dumb windshield time thought: if I did links instead of leaves, could I line things up so as to have little enough change in driveshaft length that I could just let the CVs at the transmission take up the length change?
more of a design challenge than anything that would actually be a reasonable consideration. certainly would be more expensive. but a thought exercise I thought you could all make fun of me for :)
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messaged on this. Planning to go to Attica tomorrow with 571 if I get off my ass and wrap it up tonight. Will grab if I can. Fuck the NA motor, I know this 1.8t from the charcoal 04 Jetta sedan I dailied and I liked it a lot. I know it'll be happy in the rev range I'll be geared for.
https://buffalo.craigslist.org/pts/d/grand-island-2005-vw-volkswagen-new/6914695992.html
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bonus of turbo: IDGAF what the intake looks like. A stupid log for easy packaging will be just fine since I'm shoving air into it. Ditto on exhaust once it gets past the built-in rotary muffler.
I've been worrying on intake every time I consider packaging.
Once 571 is out of winter maintenance, Joe gets car shelves to fit both toys, driveway gets thinned, and Gus gets the knife. Door stack in the back yard goes too. and any useless rubber & wheels too. Couple days of cleanup will go a long ways.
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Lots of garage .org today. More tomorrow. Excited to start on this.
Lots of bites on Beetle parts. Surprising.
I think I need to get my engine hoist back from Troy.
I think I may sketch out quick ramps In Joe for easy double loading before I start. SO NICE to not have the buggy in the garage.
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I shoulda renewed reg on this in October. Inspection is up now and I can’t renew. Damnit.
This state is a pain in the ass.
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Trans stuck in reverse today. Was parked outside. Hope it’s frozen, will know after it sits in the garage for a day.
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Fixt
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210213/f89476ae4f9c887a13a92ece1fa02d2f.jpg)
Now that I’ve done it once, trans could be out and in in an hour, probably. It’s 20†long and as big around as a coffee can. Weighs maybe 30#?
Could probably also do this repair in the truck.
I think there’s nearly no lube left in the trans. I didn’t try to seal those case halves again. Will see if the drip per day gets much worse.
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Beetle is pending pickup. Yanking engine tomorrow on a day off. Emptied the last of moving out of it just now.
Hopefully put some of its better parts into the wagon (hoping brakes and axles, both of which are upgrades to a tdi, and the wagon has a clicking CV which is what precipitated this.
Beetle body is going on a Chevy powered Toyota frame. Guy built one and sold it, wants another. Maybe some of y’all who go to mud events will see it.
Seems perfect to get rid of everything I don’t want at once.
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Beetles are way more complex.
90% ready to send the shell. Need a bit more wiring out of the car and that’s about it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210304/d2a40393879eb8b14496884444bc84cf.jpg)
ECU and cross body harness are in the cowl same as any mk4, but it’s all under the dash behind the windshield. Still a wet location. Bet those two mouse nests were great places. No wiring damage in there. But headlights were poorly rewired sometime.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210304/c3717b83e323ed93386ba95f417fbd94.jpg)
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Found out from Ken at the meeting tonight that the guy I bought this Beetle from died in a private plane crash in Michigan last year. Shame, he was a really cool guy. Very much one of us.
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https://buffalonews.com/obituaries/john-s-camilleri-jr-died-in-plane-crash-with-fraternity-brothers/article_37135bd5-6b64-5906-8c3e-f9153b8a8eb7.html
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fuel tank leak. looks good+clean from the outside, but there's some spooge around the low point and tank drain, as though there is a patch in that area that's leaking.
Noted a puddle in the gravel underneath the back end of it. at least it sprung the leak outside on the gravel and not while parked inside.
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Wiped it off and got more leak. Sump rotten from the inside.
Only right fix is probably to drop tank and cut the bottom of the sump out. Every leak is surrounded By a soft spot. Structural clean paint :(
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240305/a5be812e84d45f4ca28dae84f9feb877.jpg)
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boo! hiss!
i have half a can of POR tank sealer if that would help you. its probably still good.
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that stuff looks perfect. I need to clean and seal the MG's tank too, half a can is probably right for either one of those but probably should just pick some up. I think this is about a 7 gallon tank, Midget probably 7-10. I don't know if that one is a leaker but it's rusty inside and needs a good clean and seal
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I will certainly regret it if anything hits and holes the bottom of that tank though. maybe repair and then coat. that whole half square foot section certainly has no structure left to it...
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what shape (geometrically) is the tank?
maybe just easier to plop in a replacent thats close or just make one.
the tank i made for ians TJ5 was actually pretty easy.