M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: M4wdFab on November 26, 2012, 11:17:27 PM
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YESS!
love this thing.
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picked up a 98 zj limited, 5.9
she is loaded full function, was driven back from CA last year to NY when the rear axle blew half way. he had the axle replaced with a JY unit, but the Tcase or Rear shaft is still Fucked in his opinion.
hasent seen an east winter- its clean!
i have driven it a bunch and its got some rattles and creaks that will need to be delt with. im thinking a 231 swap, and some driveline mounts. runs mint. havent found anything that doesnt work.
has a 1.5" lift
245 Ats on overland wheels
front brush guard and rear tail light guards
[attachment deleted by admin]
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had one back in 99...
loved that truck...
i would have paid you half of what the truck cost if you had the original 5.9 wheels..
you want a 242 if you DD it...
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i might be jealous of this one...
but only if you fix the hood door locks and dont wonder 3.0 it..
dont cheap on this Jeep..
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Nice!
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Good score, you will always now want a ZJ and no more XJ JUNK. ;D
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hit 50mph on the way to work today, it vibes about as bad as wonder 1.0 did
wondering whats up and supprised it moves so well when he told me the Tcase was bad
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You drive 300 feet to work how did you have time to get to 50mph?!
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waited for a green light from the driveway and the 5.9 did the rest :)
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who needs plates!!
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riddin dirty
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I have had 3 people at work say they hate me for finding one of these lol
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riddin dirty
I believe that references driving with drugs
you know..
these wheels and NEW tires will fit that jeep.... pimp them to chip for me.. I know he likes ghetto shit like this..
(http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/LR3%20wheels/IMG-20110906-00478.jpg)
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I have had 3 people at work say they hate me for finding one of these lol
they arent that rare.... if anybody wants to pay a broker fee ill find them one ;D
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They are around, problem is finding a good one. They usually have 140000 miles or more on them. Then you run into trans problems, or engine issues. These Jeeps take special parts for them only, it can be hard sourcing parts.
But for what they had it listed for on CL its a steal.
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total steal for that price. TOTAL.
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Chad picked one up for 700 a couple weeks ago. There was another one in pitsford for sale also. They are around if you look for them
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Chad's isn't exactly a Comifornia rust free cherry example though is it?
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Yeah it is no where near as clean as smikes. But I was just saying that as a example that they are around and can be found for relatively cheap
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Excellent
$4,336
Very Good
$4,061
Good
$3,936
Fair
$3,261
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50$ of premium in the tank, and 80mph road tested. forgot what 245hp feels like on pavement
:P
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OME suspention and a tuner.. call it a day...
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fixed vibe?
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Tune would be sweet. Hemifever sct tune is the best.
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i really got into tuning mine...
headers ecm TB.. never go into any internal mods.. but im sure a nice cam would make all the difference..
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I'd take the lift out a rip it as is
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Thespeedfreaks.net has all the info you need on modded niners. There's cool stuff there.
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http://www.rocky-road.com/zjome.html
its the best Jerry, the best!!!!
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQAT7ISvL_QzIzNhMTlT6sX1Jr7C6-Uw8ESENW5CPa6hZ2pn-0X)
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I'd take the lift out a rip it as is
this. maybe with street-friendlier tires, those ATs are pretty sellable, and more than a street jeep needs. this thing can be a reasonably handling machine too.
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Spencer just told me what you paid for this thing. Good god. :o
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8)
it will get a once over when the lift is back in the shop- has some front end noise, i think the front shaft is making it.
heated seats were nice this morning
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surprised they have enough time to heat up ;D
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5 starts on the brought back to life battery
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Need a remote start on that hog so she can get up to temp once in a while
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Need a remote start on that hog so she can get up to temp once in a while
they overheat
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they overheat
That could be considered up to temp >.>
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those little bastards cook my ass on high
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Concern: How To Program a New Remote
Cause: -
Resolution: Up to 4 remotes can be programmed into receiver at any given time. 1) Locate the receiver...look for a black half-sphere on the rear portion of the overhead console. 2) Sit in driver seat and close door. All doors should be closed. 3) Open driver's door. Leave it open through the programming procedure. 4) Slide mechanical door lock lever to the LOCK position. DO NOT use the switch. 5) Insert ignition key and turn it to RUN position. DO NOT start the engine. Within 20 seconds, aim a remote at receiver dome and press and hold lock button until the power locks cycle. (When receiver accepts programming code the driver's door will unlock.) 6) Once the first remote has been programmed, additional remotes (up to 4) may be programmed into receiver. Within 20 seconds of the previous remote programming, move the mechanical door lock lever to LOCK position. Aim another remote at receiver dome and press LOCK button for at least 5 seconds. The door lock will cycle again. 7) To lock the programmed codes into the receiver, the ignition must be turned off and back on within 20 seconds after programming the last remote's code. At that time, all previous codes are erased from the module.
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crap
96-98 has to be programmed by the dealer. Totally different system.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TxO2NR_sw78
8)
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replaced gage cluster (was missing clear inset)
replaced the information center display
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looking at AZ prices, its actually pretty cheap to just put CV axles back in the front....
this thing will never be wheeled, and i really feel like swaping a 231 in... trying to decided if i should just put new CVs in and call it good when that fits the vibs
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i have CV's for that thing...
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i really dont feel like swaping a 231 in*
the CVs are probably 40$ a side your cost, i figured thed be like 100 something
ill wait till i can actually get it on the lift and trouble shoot the vib,
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leave the 249 till the VC goes...
and for that it might never go...
driving a ZJ with AWD is night and day different than 2wd... I dont think youll like it
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is the 249 working ok? i have 249 parts if needed.
shouldnt really be having problems with ujoint axle shafts and the 249. i never had that setup, but i know people who did with no problems.
i loved my 2wd 8)
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http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.424312204276612.87385.175001599207675&type=1
EMC like a boss
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i have not attempted to shift the 249, its in high and goes when i put my foot down.
i dont know anything about them. i know 231's pretty well.
to me it sounds like i am driving a 4x4 truck on pavement, but no tire chiping or feeling like its bound up, just rotational drive line clunking
slow or high speeds its present. put your foot down with wheel straight it sometimes goes away.
what does the VC do? just bias power to the front or rear like a center diff?
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so doing some reading, sounds like the VC is shot and its just locked up and gives 100% to front and rear
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usually when the VC goes the case is shot...
its exactly as you said.. center diff... wheelers dont like the case because there is no way to lock it..
fpr pavement its the shit..
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burned up vc acts like a locked tcase aka 231 in 4hi.
96+ 249 is locked in 4 low
unfortunately i sold the vc out of the 249 i pulled from my ZJ.
pull the front driveshaft out and see how it responds.
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ya thats what i read, 96 down you are screwed because there is no lock up.
ill pull the shaft and verify, but if its fine, ill probably go the 231 route
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My buddy pulls the front shaft on his every summer for the last 12 years
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ya its pretty clear its ok to do this on 96 and later
96 and before , you roast your VC killing your AWD
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got this guy on the lift tonight, pulled the front shaft
the CV is shot, drives mint now.
Also noticed someone bugger welded 2" of square steel into the rear upper control arms cut in half and made longer :o
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Sweet
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Iirc ZJ uppers are ZJ specific. Check the length of a set from a TJ before you install them. Also, I was at 3" lift with stock rear control arms with no problems. So stock length replacement should be fine
I have a set of adjustables on now that I'll be pulling soon if you're interested.
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I was wondering if the axle brackets were different from the doner truck and they buggered in the diffrrence to get the pinion angle correct. I did verify its an aluminum carrier axle ad is LS. I have a pile of tj arms ill check. They look longer.
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If its the 44a with LSD it's probably the original axle. They were probably trying to get the pinion up more.
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hmmm maybe i do have a chance of getting plates for this guy without a replacement title....
IN number: 1J4GZ88Z8WC263943
Model year: 1998
Vehicle Make: JEEP
Title Issue Date: Title Not Yet Issued.
Number of Liens: 00
im still wondering how he managed to get a NYS registration without an NY title. The DMV site is so annoying and the phone messages dont even put you on hold they just say they are full and hang up!
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you can get a NYS reg with an out of state title...
they just re issue a NYS
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Did this over the summer, took me 30minutes in the DMV
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you can get a NYS reg with an out of state title...
they just re issue a NYS
BUT, do they send you a NY title, if the CA title was locked at the bank?
this is my issue. Bought jeep. Guy signed over CA title that has clear lean. Noticed at home, jeep has NYS registration on it.....
I figure guy lost NY title, but then Bank sent back CA title after lean cleared. CA title probably useless?
OR would NYS hold issuing a NY title untill CA title was released from bank? but issue NYS registration because of 30 day law?
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Just insured this guy
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you can get a NYS reg with an out of state title...
they just re issue a NYS
BUT, do they send you a NY title, if the CA title was locked at the bank?
this is my issue. Bought jeep. Guy signed over CA title that has clear lean. Noticed at home, jeep has NYS registration on it.....
I figure guy lost NY title, but then Bank sent back CA title after lean cleared. CA title probably useless?
OR would NYS hold issuing a NY title untill CA title was released from bank? but issue NYS registration because of 30 day law?
My experience was you NEEDED the ca title for the transfer, presumably clear of any leans. I had the last known title for my CJ but because the past owner and a half hadn't transfered it to their name it was still in some random dude names. Also, CA wouldn't do anything over the phone so I had to get family to take care of it remotely for it (and extra title transfer thrown in). Finally, CA wouldn't sign the title over to me so I could have it in NYS until all passed fees were paid (3 registrations or so and late fees).. YMMV
edit: once you have that clear CA title it takes 30mins at the DMV :P
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What bank has the lien
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Navy Federal Credit Union
the CA title is stamped and released....
i am thinking ill be fine maybe.
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notarized?
some states need to be...
i think youll be fine
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so the last couple days the Coolant sensor bad alarm as be going off on the VIC
so the truth comes out- this LEVEL sensor has nothing to do with EMS and i bet that's why the previous owner ripped out the VIC because it dings and flashes red that something is wrong lol
silly people.
the driver door on this thing is pissing me off, it takes two men and a boy to open it sometimes, yet works factory mint from inside.
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IIRC it's the interior panel being loose and catching the B pillar, should be an easy fix.
what's EMS? I got Vehicle Information Center.
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Engine management system?
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ya its a level sensor, nothing to do with running the engine no CEL
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mine does that. IIRC, its the VIC's fault, not the actual sensor. its a very common problem
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ya i did some reading, something about cracked solder connections that you just reflow- wish i knew that before i put one in
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My hawg kicks that alert on every once in a while also
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got plates and paper for this hog yesterday no issues! 260$
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jeep forum win, gota try this tonight
On the doors right above the latch you will see a allen head screw that directly faces you.. If you adjust the screw it adjusts how the door will open when you push the button in. Just loosen a little bit and push the adjuster slide up with a screwdriver. It's going to be trial and error to get it adjusted perfect. It took me a few times before I got it where it needed to be. Roll the window down and as long as the door opens from the inside you will be fine tweaking the adjustment. This screw only adjusts the outside handle anyway.
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Sounds easy enough
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How'd she do in the snow? Time for a front shaft yet?
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The tires slip lol
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no issues on the way home,
have to check out the front end and at least fix both track bars. had 3 instances of death wobble from hitting pot holes
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I had a slipery ride home. I'm thinking the steering wheel off center is perhapse messing with traction control still on non dry pavement
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2.0 was dead, didn't want to fire up the cummins, so choice 3 was this RWD whip tonight. I planned to be in no hurry. the 5.9 loves to stop but hates to go in the snow.
gota try out that shaft Spenser gave me and see if its drive-able again in AWD.
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got this guy on the lift tonight for a couple hours
started looking for death wobbel causes. all bolts on steering box were finger tight, and it was wobbling around like crazy, tightened track bar bolt, installed a steering stabilizer that required some unique fabbing lol
put a shaft back in the front spenser gave me.
didnt have it in me to change the trans mount tonight.
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trans mount done
oil and filter done
scuffed and flat blacked 3 dents that were bare
test drove- much tighter couldnt get it do death wobbel. sounds like front diff noise when coasting
VC definatly shot you can feel it bind a little when you turn on dry pavement.
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changed fluids in both diffs today front was glop, rear was clean / newish
11/41 gears
put a 32" light bar on this guy, found the blown fuse on the fog lights circuit, and used that :)
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this guy performed 99% flawlessly this weekend to bristol and back.
Very comfy to sleep in also with the back folded down.
The new light bar is blinding awesomness.
One issue- the dam thing does not warm up. the whole way there and back, it doesnt get past 120 degrees on the gage, makes no heat whatso ever. i am thinking the Tstat is stuck open or missing.
it seemd to make heat when it was 50 degrees out, hmm.
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Does that mean you need a new light for 572? ;D
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ya, i will haha. Ill hold off for now, but this one will probably be staying on this jeep
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sounds like a bad heater core ,cherokees dont run much hotter than *120
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doubt it,
its gota have a 190 or 210 stat in it
my xj goes right to 190 in 2 minutes
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sounds like a bad heater core ,cherokees dont run much hotter than *120
Cherokees with stuck open tstats, perhaps.
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this guy has 2 codes
No CEL indacated, but chip and I were messing with our bluetooth readers last night
soemthing about trans lock upcircuit
and another code that made sense, not sure
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Buy them wheels
http://rochester.craigslist.org/pts/3541736125.html
Or buy the whole truck for scrap price
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chad knows the sellar- guy bought it at auction by acident for 600$
to busy to get out there
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changed a wheel bearing on this guy today
found a rotted hose with a hole in it on the EVAP canister- 2 hrs to get to it and back through the head light
hope that makes it pass NYS next time
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wont pass emisions, keeps saying not enough data and monitors wont set.
I think its because it technically doesnt get to engine operating temp.
Still hates to find its idle upon hot restart also.
stuffed cardboard infront of the radiator last night when i left buffalo, at least i got some cabin heat, but she doesnt like the warm up with 11 degree ambient!
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have you flushed the system yet?
garden hose to the opposide side of the heater core... shit will run old BLACK...
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its from California, clean shinny green fluid, im guessing someone pulled the TSTAT, or its stuck open.
it sits at 100degrees after an hour of thruway driving
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just as i suspected- no stat present.
new stat
TPS
iacv
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/02/6enyqatu.jpg)
Poor niner
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Do you want my 242 for this hog? Straight bolt in. Internal slip yoke so only one you're gonna find that wont require rear driveshaft mod
$100
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That awd/4hi/4lo right?
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242 is 2wd/4pt/4at/4lo
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any issues with it? does it pop out at all when wheeling?
ill probably take it if it will bolt up same splines and such. i have the trim bezel aready.
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locks in all gears. PO claims it was rebuilt by Jeff Daniel's Jeep in PA. I cant confirm that.
technically its a 249/242. the 242 was an 88 and had 21 splint input. it had the old cut planetary so i couldnt swap in the input from my stock 249. so its the 249 front half with input and the 242 guts and rear half. the older 242s are internal slip yoke so no dealing with driveshaft crap like if you pulled one from a 96+ XJ or ZJ.
VIC wont display what gear you're in. no 4 prong plug on non ZJ cases. has speedo hole on the tailshaft.
your stock driveshaft should be good. if youre doing ujoints at the same time remember your rear yoke is 1330. not sure where else on the rear driveshaft is 1330.
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want this case? can bring it tomorrow.
stopping by the shop before the meeting to grab my tires stashed out back.
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Ya ill take it
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This hog has fully functioning cold ac!
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drove this guy to buffalo and back saturday
drive nick and I to Mighty taco sunday
sunday afternoon i hop in to run to the bathroom, and kaboom steering wheel doesn't make the wheels turn half way though backing up from parking space at shop!
2 bolts broke and one ear snapped off box!
no good
all i can think is i over torqued the bolts because they were loose when i got it that was causing death wobble- and weakend the boots
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Just be glad it happened there and not cruising down the road
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Holy frijoles! Good timing. Like my drag link failure while parking at Syracuse MJ. Fun stuff
Tapatalking in traffic
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back in service with a CJ5 high pressure hose because this genius squished the hose between the new box and frame rail. FAWK
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SOLD
drove away tonight.
tires/wheels, LED light bar, and yellow top not included in sale.
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Sweet deal there