M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on December 04, 2023, 11:19:44 PM
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Landed in my lap, title will be here tomorrow. Been parked for 4-6 months.
2009, AWD, 132,000.
Has some water to the interior issues, probably sunroof drains. Water in the trunk too, maybe brake light? Minor rust at fender edges. Haven’t had it in the air yet. Told it has weeping transmission lines which is why it was parked and left behind in a move. I’m sure that means some other things are crunchy too.
Needs a battery. May have some wheel bearing issues or the tires are out of balance/round but other than a rumble at 45+ it did a quick drive just fine. Brakes feel fine. Has a serpentine squeak.
Probably end up Sarah’s daily if I don’t fall in love with it. I should do the Allroad clutch so I have its peer.
Who could really love a gold caddy though?
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AWD, nice score if you can get it running good.
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trickle charge brought a battery that fits back to life. I think the one that was in it didn't come back but another that came with it did.
oil leak was an o-ring below the o-ring land on the filter cap. was at the bottom of the threads instead.
registering it tomorrow. needs a few things, but should be a good winter drivable rig to keep the truck and jeep out of the salt. will get an order going for all the belt accessory things in the fleet that need doing, that'll be a lot of things. All on this and all on the Z4, they both run 2 serpentine belts with tensioners.
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Did 40ish miles on this today. It’s very GM: serviceable transportation, drives… fine. Why would anyone have spent like 40k on this 15 years ago? It’s not THAT quiet and smooth.
Proper tire inflation got the rumble taken care of. Computer says it’s doing 19mpg.
Driver door lock actuator is dead. That and the belt squeak is it so far, other than cleanup and water leaks. Trunk is WET.
Bet this goes for 5 before the jeep does.
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MIL popped
Code P0008 - engine position system performance bank 1
I heard something like a carrier bearing or rear diff bushing too, if I get on it.
Found maintenance paperwork from the last 20,000 miles. Couple oil changes, MAF in response to a code, three wheel bearings - fronts for rumble at speed and a rear for ABS tone ring rust, and four new tires 10k ago.
Evap and egr monitors not yet set. Clearing codes and will see if that p0008 comes back.
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Bit of reading, and that's a timing chain issue.
I did hear a rattle at idle over the belt squeaks, reasonably confirmed. Apparently chains went early in the early 3.6. Mulling over including the 'extras' in that job of the cam phasers and oil pump. Probably worth it for the extra couple hundred bucks diving deep into it either at resale or being known good for another 100k if it stays around. god knows I never manage to get rid of anything
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Crunchyyyy
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231230/b2badf5c00e533833e9041c695acc3f6.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231230/525105594d619d0d0070a346d369ca76.jpg)
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Took a bit to bleed the cooling system right but I think everything is all set. Driveshaft carrier bearing was annoying, had to take apart a CV driveshaft. exhaust had definitely been dropped recently, all fresh hardware and took no effort to drop. I need to put a proper clamp on the driveshaft sometime, I didn’t have a large enough single use clamp in stock and the hose clamp I had to use can be felt at about 50mph.
No lights lit after a couple cycles and 8 miles. Hopefully I can get monitors set and get it stickered.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240101/063b1d271bc9868d8e76f7061656e055.jpg)
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4 warmup cycles and still hasn't passed catalyst monitor, couple key cycles since putting 5/8 tank of fuel in it and evap hasn't set ready yet either.
no codes or pending codes though, so hopefully will be good to inspect in another couple drive cycles...
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Round trip commute plus a lunch trip, same state. Evap and catalyst unset, no codes.
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Catalyst finally passed. Evap not but inspection ready. No codes or pending. Should get a sticker this week. With Sarah’s starter out, it’s in commuter duty so has to wait on vw part to sit for sticker. Lame…
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stick'd
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nooice!
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I need to put a proper clamp on the driveshaft sometime, I didn’t have a large enough single use clamp in stock and the hose clamp I had to use can be felt at about 50mph.
Put it up in the air when I got home with it. I got some stainless clamps and tool, but it's going to be really hard to get into the space next to the bearing. I may need to make a narrower nose to put on the tool for space, hope I don't waste a bunch of bands
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wasted one band. got it done without dropping anything. Hopefully good!
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Do you ever wonder how people live with just 1 newer car that only needs oil changes and gas? ;D
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I do wonder how that is...
The thread for that discussion happens to be Sarah's TDI. That'll be out of daily production real soon, if not already. It's a source of friction at the moment.
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This thing is fuel stinking up the garage.
No gas drip visible anywhere underneath.
Has to be weeping somewhere and leaving a wet spot somewhere. An oil pan of gasoline smells about as much as this does. It can’t be an evap leak unless something is putting gas into the charcoal canister and it runs a purge on shutdown.
It’s always gotta be something.
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Found the drip. Rotten steel fuel lines up against side of tank. Broke in more places at clamps as I touched them.
Replaced with rubber 50psi working pressure fuel injection line from the plastic at the tank to up front where the rust stopped.
Should probably do the trans cooler lines that look equally crunchy, and send this thing. Domestics suck. Aluminized steel fuel lines? Cmon. At least the brake lines still look good. Hopefully they aren’t about to fall apart right at the nuts like they always seem to.
Smike, do you have male to nipple for these quick connects when you’re re plumbing things? I keep the females in stock but I ended up having to just cut these off and clamp over the nylon line. Extremely tight fit and pushed over far enough to double clamp so I’m comfortable with it but unhappy I had to do that. Just didn’t have the right stuff in stock or leftovers.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240208/fe2ff1a8e79604e58a3306950bc9b3ea.jpg)
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i dont think i have any male ones that would be use full. usually i just replace the whole line tank to fuel rail with two new females.
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I'd have had to drop the fuel tank to do that on this one.
Layout is a short plastic line from fuel pump ending with a female to the rotten steel line with a male, the rotten steel runs all the way forward and up the inner fender where it's swaged to a flex line that runs to the engine, and an AC-type disconnect that I couldn't take apart when I was doing the timing chains. I ended up laying the fuel rails off to the passenger side using the flex of that line. It wasn't an exact size match to AC lines and my AC disconnect tool wouldn't quite get it.
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Still REALLY need to do the trans lines and PS lines.
Sarah really likes this thing and doesn't seem interested in replacing it in spite of my urging...
Has a check engine light on for something that I haven't pulled. has a really quiet lifter tick once it's warmed up. Seems like a time bomb that I'll be stuck scrapping when it pops instead of having gotten to sell it for a couple bucks. Oh whell.
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Oil changed, 149,942
Drained oil looked good but didn’t seem like 5qt (I didn’t check before drain, and operator refuses to check oil regularly even on the known consumption issue historically with the Equinox), lots of sludge in oil filter, certainly stirred up from timing chain job. Should have done a change sooner than 4500 miles apparently,
Operator reported a loud startup recently. Sounded like chain chatter either from VVT or tensioners.
Lotsa codes behind that MIL. We’ll see what come back. None returned immediately and startup much quieter.
Readiness shows O2 issues.
Notable that GM engine management shows 53% oil life remaining. No wonder this thing was full of sludge.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240622/cf36eb2e0ca3b582dc2c23731ff8eb73.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240623/1325f0d1efc1dd97c198575f5e50f3b2.jpg)
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Put a new oil filter cap on this tonight in hopes that the startup rattle goes away. I don’t think it will. I don’t know if there’s another oil drain back that it could be. The cap was the next suggestion I found. It has drain back and bypass.
Changed left low beam headlight. Have to drop one side of the bumper cover and remove the headlight module (on driver side only, could remove air box and have super tight space. PDC is there on pax side). There’s steel of fender behind it. So dumb. Halogen lights shouldn’t take that much to change. Forums say it’s a $300 job at the dealer. It took me 45 minutes. Thieves. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240923/1ca5e4f5cb56030e2206a745de3a4afd.jpg)
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freaking insane...
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Oil filter cap made no difference. Still sounds like the chains are gonna exit the block for the first half second of run time. Tensioners leak down in a couple hours.
No sludge noted on the filter though, and about 4000 since oil change. Maybe some nice, thick oil next time around.
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the tensioners are hydraulic?
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Oil pressure, yeah. Most timing chain tensioners are.
All four cams have oil-controlled phasers too, could also be involved if they empty as well.
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Oil pressure, yeah. Most timing chain tensioners are.
All four cams have oil-controlled phasers too, could also be involved if they empty as well.
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Interesting
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Report of a breifly flashing MIL today
This thing is made of codes. Misfires all around and both exhaust cam phasers.
Still rattles like a mother on anything but hot fresh restart. GM and I really don’t get along.
It got fresh spark plugs along with the timing job and oil pump. Didn’t do anything with coils, could see about parts cannon those at it at 150k miles.
Code dump - none came back immediately. Oil has about 3400 miles on it, that’s been when cams started throwing codes the last couple oil changes. It might got one step thicker grade but it would be much nicer if it stopped draining back. Replacing the oil filter cap ( integrated check valve ) made zero difference.
Hope the evap code was a loose gas cap one time. Mom’s Mazda will have an evap code chased next week.
Car Scanner ELM OBD2
Version: 1.112.9/1.112.9/iOS
DTC report
Connection profile: Cadillac OBD-II / EOBD (2004 - present) + CANDate: 11/20/2024 7:36:23 PM
VIN: 1G6DG577390136653
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OBD-IIOBD-II
DTCs: 10
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P0300 [0x0300]
Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected
Status: Confirmed
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P0302 [0x0302]
Cylinder 2 - misfire detected
Status: Confirmed
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P0496 [0x0496]
Evaporative emission (EVAP) system - high purge flow
Status: Confirmed
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P0304 [0x0304]
Cylinder 4 - misfire detected
Status: Confirmed
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P0306 [0x0306]
Cylinder 6 - misfire detected
Status: Confirmed
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P0014 [0x0014]
Camshaft position (CMP) actuator, exhaust/right/rear, bank 1 - timing over-advanced/system performance
Status: Confirmed
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P0024 [0x0024]
Camshaft position (CMP), exhaust/right/rear, bank 2 - timing over-advanced/system performance
Status: Confirmed
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P0303 [0x0303]
Cylinder 3 - misfire detected
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
Status: GM failure record
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P0301 [0x0301]
Cylinder 1 - misfire detected
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
Status: GM failure record
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P0305 [0x0305]
Cylinder 5 - misfire detected
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
Status: GM failure record
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inspect an check all engine to body to chassis to battery grounds, never hurts when multiple codes pop
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New set of codes with no repeats after 2 cycles and 15-20 miles.
I like the “General Electrical Failures”, that’s cool.
Car Scanner ELM OBD2
Version: 1.112.9/1.112.9/iOS
DTC report
Connection profile: Cadillac OBD-II / EOBD (2004 - present) + CANDate: 11/22/2024 12:21:55 PM
VIN: 1G6DG577390136653
============================
OBD-IIOBD-II
DTCs: 3
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P0011 [0x0011]
Camshaft position (CMP), intake/left/front, bank 1 - timing over-advanced/system performance
Status: Pending
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P1012 [0x1012]
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
Status: GM failure record
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P0341 [0x0341]
Camshaft position (CMP) sensor A, bank 1 - range/performance problem
General Electrical Failures [0x00]
Status: GM failure record
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Well it either ate a timing chain or a phaser shit the bed
Barely avoided a sheriff ordered tow, rolled it down the hill into mark moores driveway lol
It’s been a pretty poor car week!
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No block holes. No sensors sheared. Won’t know more till I pull valve covers later this week.
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boo! hiss!
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oh no!
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One valve cover off, front plate on exhaust cam phaser -fell off- the cam phaser
Wtf
I knew I would regret scrapping the old phasers and chains. I really wanna see what’s supposed to hold that thing on there.
In a few minutes, I’ll see what the other side looks like… Maybe this will be as easy as a cam position sensor and a cam phaser? I’ll assume that it beat the shit out of the sensor.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250329/72ed5544f531864b8cf0e1cb564fd88c.jpg)
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Driver head is fine
Cam is not moving with the phaser, probably have exhaust valve damage. Unsure if camshaft could be damaged as well, would depend on how the phaser is damaged. It did loosen the bolt, so will depend on whether the phaser guts are loose on the cam or if the phaser came apart
Easiest rescue would probably be a junkyard head swap. Several hundred and probably 8 - 12 hours more total?
Might get 5k out of it, more likely 3. Versus what, 500-700 in scrap?
Sounds like I should make it go away. Sarah likes it even w the Magnum and the caddy is in worse shape though it’s a bit nicer and gets way better em pee gees
¯\_(?)_/¯
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some research led to some parts and tools buying.
- not interference engine. valves should be fine
- rattle on startup is indicative of bad cam phaser (has rattled at startup forever, before and after timing set)
- phasers are supposed to have pins that lock in to static timing when there's no oil pressure. it's when those pins fail that things go badly.
- there's a tool to jam down behind the cam gears to retract chain tensioner and change phasers without pulling the timing cover.
- there's an updated right side valve cover gasket that restricts PCV and reduces oil consumption.
Both those camshafts spin - one freely and one within the range of phaser adjustment.
I bought that tool and both phasers. will retime those cams and hopefully she'll run again. Then probably send it.
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sounds like progress but annoying!
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Back together, starts and runs. Not fixed. Rattle came back shortly. Pulled the brand new vvt actuators, no ground up chunks on them like the old ones. Didn’t try unplugging and running to see if the pins lock and stay locked without actuators, idk if that’s “allowed” or a quick route to damage.
$500 with a smile to anyone here. Will drive onto a trailer.
Should have intake and valve cover pulled again for anything further than that.
At least it’s mobile again and now it’s outside and not soaking up a bay or blocking the forklift.
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wheels, cat, battery, fuel drained from it, and the Claw at metalico dropping and smashing it would probably net 500 and be more satisfying