M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: M4wdFab on November 10, 2023, 06:09:13 PM
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started gathering parts
superduty axles
07 ecotec 2.2
link material and heims ordered
rear steer valve came in today
have a list and a plan
budget build, rear stear transaxle, 39 redlabels (to start)
single seat moon buggy, light, simple. trail rig.
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Nice
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1st oversight... no power steering pump provision on 2007 2.2
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Electric boosted column might be useful in something else but that’s annoying.
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Electric pump
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Electric boosted column might be useful in something else but that’s annoying.
i was thinking the jacks on my trailer lol
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shell scrapped, netted 160$ back of the 600 i paid for the 2007 cobalt. 2 cats added to cat pile if prices ever go back up... pathetic right now
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rear engine or front engine? American or British driver position? :P
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first glance looks like mid engine and left hand drive single seat.
guy had family ER emergency this morning so i didnt get to pick up my second superduty axle as scheduled out by my mom
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4 links front and rear, all 38" is long
plan is links, subframe, axles, steering, drive shafts will all be symetrical / mirror image front/rear.
engine will be off set on right side, with transmission in center with ouputs point to front left diff and rear right diff.
fill the seat, cell, rad in where there is room, tube over top, wheel.
single ended 10" rams for 50 degree steering, leaving superduty tie rods ect for now
had thoughts to try and do pinion brakes but on the transaxle end, and remove all the superduty calipers/rotors but not seeing a way to execute that relistate wise up front (legs in way)
the fuel pressure is PWM'd on these things o need to deal with that... Fuel pump module scrapped with shell. hoping to use a corvette 58psi filter reg instead and run it
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wiring info gathered/stolen
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I’d leave brakes on the axle ends and mount a second caliper for cutting.
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spools and no center diff /disconnect so no reason for corner brakes
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The "MN5" 4T45E auto 4 speed trans
Gear ratios:
1 2 3 4 R
2.95 1.62 1.00 0.68 2.14
Applications:
final drive ratio 3.63:1
2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt
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welding the "diff" in the auto is more of a project than i was hoping.... F me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zM2YdBBGCs
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https://www.justanswer.com/chevy/29eqh-pcm-wiring-diagram-2007-cobalt.html
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welding the "diff" in the auto is more of a project than i was hoping.... F me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zM2YdBBGCs
That looks awful.
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wired and plumbed on the K member this morning and strapped to the RAM to run out to Johns and pull VATS from the computer this afternoon. fingers crossed its happy with no Fuel pressure control module connected and a corvette 58psi filter reg.
runs and stalls as it should with VATS enabled and good OBD communication right now.
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is VATS the gm immobilizer?
yes it is. Vehicle Anti Theft System.
sounds like progress, but Ryan is right. that looks pretty damn awful.
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sucess with john, all well with my wiring mods. enabled power enrichment @2500rpm so should be boost ready anytime
SD axle weighed in at 558lbs
ecotec, trans, kmember, battery, 2.5gal tank, ect 630 lbs lol
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harness fully trimmed down, all excess wires pulled, re loomed, cleaned up to 3 wires, obd, gas petal.
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If the case cracked with an open diff, how well will it do "locked"?
welding the "diff" in the auto is more of a project than i was hoping.... F me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zM2YdBBGCs
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unknown. lots of derby guys use these things so should be fine.
still working out a few of the design ideas
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Cool! I love the concept of symmetrical suspension setup/links.
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welding the "diff" in the auto is more of a project than i was hoping.... F me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zM2YdBBGCs
That looks awful.
took me 4 hours including welding the diff and letting it cool for a half hour
wasn't too bad, transmissions are fun. i would feel fully confident in rebuilding one now.
only fail was snapping a starter motor termanal (after heat and PB) and having to torch out speed sensor (rusted brittle seized plastic).
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just found this guys old build thread, using same exact transaxle.
pirate adds are painful but he goes into detail about fighting transaxle c clips. he even cut a window into the side of the transmission housing lol.
I was going to ignore this and say it would be fine, but i guess not now. going back to thinking about 4bolt bearing retaining flange and something to hang a rotors before a driveline flange to delete corner brakes also.
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https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/my-transverse-engine-trans-buggy-build.1237674/#replies
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going to try D30 unit bearings, stub shaft, rotor and see how packaging looks.
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pirate adds are painful
use Brave browser. It blocks ads. Also blocks ads in youtube videos.
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realized i have lots of ford 8.8 pinions, flanges, yokes, and 1350 super duty shafts. should be able to size a 4 bolt bearing flange and adapt to transaxle cup to retain, and support, 1350 drive shaft CVs will be nice also.
think i have ditched the pinion brake idea... dont these things usually get water/steel shot in the tires anyway lol, i guess that weight will help on the corners
stared at a TC pump today, decided not worth 150$ in my time to not order the CBR bracket on ebay that bolts on.
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engine alone weighed in at 300lbs
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worked on some output ideas today
Ford8.8 pinion
cobalt CV flange cut down
1.5" 4 bolt flange bearing (not shown)
Ford 8.8 flange
should be able to use ujoints or Superduty 1350 cv shafts
some lathe work, press work, welded.
need another pinion and would like a 3rd to make a spare
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like the 8.8 flange idea. 8)
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from the reading i did, looks like pulling out cv shafts is the biggest down fall of using the trans axle.
these arent really rated as a thrust bearing, but i think they will be fine. two 1.5" showed up today. need to make some mounting plates and then start building an engine cradle, sub frame.
link material and heims here next week.
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picked up a pair of air shocks from troy today and also 2 more 30 spline pinions to make transaxle outputs for free, guy reached out in gates thats part of a gear setup FB group when i posted up looking for some.
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2nd failed attempt at sealing the trans pan, i guess i need a new pan and an oem gasket. bah!
front 60 hubs and rotors broke down, rotors turned, wheel adaptors and 39s mounted.
lathe set up and 1 link done
need to dig my chassis table out from the back of the other side of barn. that was PPP.
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subframe/skid/HDPE done today
2 of 3 motor motor/trans mounts done
links and lots of measurements firmed up to start burning tabs and running tube soon.
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lower links mounted to chassis sub
picking up rear stear axle tomorrow morning!
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when did you get the plasma table?
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this little one has been passed around a few guys in the club. mikemike ended up with it, and hadent got it up and running yet so i grabbed it to get it going and its on loan. i had been looking for one for a while, and the learning and process will transfer to when i find a deal on a bigger one.
just picked it up friday, only have a day into it so far.
2nd superduty 60 axle picked up and another 1350 front CV drive shaft
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2nd steer axle de bracketed today
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decisions were made today first stick of tube down
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picked up some hardware and 2 hydro rams at Runnings today. Joe bringing me home more air shocks and an orbital from Ohio Market place finds while we was on a work training trip this week.
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need to make some decisions for the shape of this thing pretty soon.
anyone have some input feel free to MS paint away for some ideas lol
the 4 vertical chassis bars are kinda set where they need to be for link mounts and head room up front. dont really plan to have tube past the shock mounts that will be over the axles and tipped in both ways towards center of car a bit.
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With your long legs aren't your feet gonna be out past the front tires or your knees up high?
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feet / petals will be just over the front axle tube
need to plan out the exhaust header to get the set positioned.
the other problem, entry/exit not really optimal. might be Atom style enter though front!
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5 port orbital with power beyond procured
(4) 16" fox air shocks procured
not much progress this week on it yet. other issues and chaos on the home front!
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2.0 fox air shocks 16” Stroke - Fill 400cc
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cant find a drawing for 2.2 ecotec / Z22SE exhaust flange.
boo.
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pulled the exhaust maifold today after finishing up the links on front axle.
monkeying around here in effort to make more room for the seat, exhaust is close to where i want to be.
also started learning about what i need to add turbo setup since i think i need to make my own manifold.
looks like for 350$ on ebay i can get turbo/w gate, oil lines, intercooler, charge piping and clamps, mech boost controller valve, mech gage, BOV valve, BOV 2.5" flange, 2bar? MAP sensor from ecotec turbo application.
should be able to draw up an exhaust flange and a T4 flange to cut out on the plasma table.
thinking on that over Christmas. already approaching the budget on this hawg!
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turbo stuff ordered
drawings made for ecotec flanges
starting to looking like something
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all 1.75" tube done
just about ready to sit on its own weight and roll soon.
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roller status, sitting on charged shocks.
have a few clearance issues at full corner bump so i need to think on how to solve that. only need about .5-1" more shock to upper link clearance. i knew it was going to be tight and had to start somewhere.
at least being symmetrical its exactly the same problem front and rear lol
sold a rear SD axle today for 200$, making one of my 60s free. win
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roller
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decided best fix is to move the upper axle link mounts in a heim width and cope in a clearance notch at main chassis tube where shocks just kiss.
i could have been lazy and move the shocks outside the chassis, but i really wanted them protected inside. literally fighting for 1/2" in like 3 places to fit the shock on a corner.
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all clearance issues fixed, front drive shaft made and installed.
moving towards getting the seat mounted next. should be interesting.
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finished up exhaust manifold and started planing out turbo / intercooler / rad placement
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i see someone is really having fun with the CNC plasma
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started on steering
machined up some threaded collars to connect 1.125" thread to 7/8" heim
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made a 3' bed extension for my lathe so i can fit the 60" tie rod up for machine work.
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high steer arms welded on and tie rod machined for front today. finish up rear tomorrow.
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beefy
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hopefully it doesn't fail, the Barns kit uses a 1" bolt through the OEM hole. it moves the tie rod out for diff cover clearance, keeps the Ram push point same place. with ~50* steering i use exactly 8" of Ram travel.
lathe extension worked great today to machining the 53" tie rod. just have to take care with squaring it up a little bit more than usual but not a big deal.
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Rams mounted this afternoon
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need to start populating control locations before finishing up tube work.
1550 shafts came, ordered coolers to get rad pack and charge pipes finalized.
pretty close to plumbing things and wires soon.
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engine block tapped for turbo oil drain. more fittings and parts on the list to wrap up plumbing on this hawg
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cooler stack for rad, trans, steering, intercooler
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so for an off the shelf M12 x 1.75 coper washer seal to 1/8"NPT there are two options brass or AL
brass lots of reviews the piece is junk, breaks, etc.
comes with instructions not to exceed 25ft lbs. i set my torq wrench to 20ft lbs. immediately snaps at like 1/3 of that lol
no options and my lathe i guess doesnt do metric threading
going to try making what i need out of a bolt i guess
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIJ39O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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the install tool for super duty vacuum seals is comically big and heavy lol
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You are cruising right along with this thing.
Any chance we'll see this thing in New England? ;D
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i dont know, we will see.
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so for an off the shelf M12 x 1.75 coper washer seal to 1/8"NPT there are two options brass or AL
brass lots of reviews the piece is junk, breaks, etc.
comes with instructions not to exceed 25ft lbs. i set my torq wrench to 20ft lbs. immediately snaps at like 1/3 of that lol
no options and my lathe i guess doesnt do metric threading
going to try making what i need out of a bolt i guess
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIJ39O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
dug though my metric bolt bucket and found a M12x1.75 bolt, stuck it in the lathe and made what i needed. steel should hold way better.
header wrapped and installed with turbo. oil feed and drain lines, O2 bung, oil pressure gage tap isntalled.
working on sourcing braided AN3 brake line parts to make all lines since it gets a little tricky and annoying doing it how i would normaly do with off the shelf hoses.
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rear tub work done for cooling and cell
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boxes and boxes of parts pilled up, hoping to get back on this thing in April :o
front winch came in. its so cute.
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drug back into shop for a couple of days
ambition is low, stuck on cab controls/floors/4th engine mount
i guess i just need to start throwing tube at it and see what happens.
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finally made some progress on cabin layout and controls today. i think its going to work out pretty good.
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getting ready to start plumbing.
fuel cell enclosure finishd and cell mounted
hydro res mounted
battery box mounted
exhaust done and muffler hung
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PCM and TCM mounted
more chassis tube work done on the sides
gages mounted
hydro lines in
fuel system lines in
turbo hot and cold side clamped up
cooing system clamped up
waiting on the hydro return line to come in
more brake fittings and line to come in
wont be long till i can fire it, should be driving early next week i think.
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more wires
65psi oil pressure while cranking with starter motor / turbo feed bled
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fired up buggy.
imediatly noticed power steering pump not happy, dead headed.
ran output hose direct to tank to ignore that / think about it.
fought with cooling system on and off for 2 hours, cant get to bleed, bah!
fuel system good
exhaust good
wiring good
transmission still good after re assembly
50$ grab bag orbital is wrong kind. determined its closed center with 5th port load sense. not open center with 5th port power beyond.
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new open center 4 port orbital installed with rear steer spool valve in series. works mint. 3.5 turns lock to lock (lots of steering angle!) and rear stear works great.
thermostat had no bleed hole and would not open to allow engine to pass coolant. gutted t stat and all good. if i get a new one i might put a 3/8" hole in it and keep the stat functional.
rips around good, gearing with 3.73 seems like it would be crawlable so 5.38s should be nice.
on to hit list for a shake down run. a little bit a fabrication left and wire/plumbing clean up.
lots of work left, but glad its moving, charging, cooling, holding oil.
brakes and hubs / gears and such lol
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solid second shift on this tonight. i left a lot of welding in hard places haha. rear links and shocks pulled for final weld, tab paint, top locks. need to run for hardware tomorrow.
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shocks and links locked down final. proper test drive (FWD only, open diff, 3.73s)
limit straps in
electrical and hydro instal cleaned up
spot painting the hard places as i go.
chassis should be ready to finish paint after rest of fabrication is done like floors,roof,winch, harness mounts ect.
made some turbo noises!
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brake lines mostly run. ordered another roll of braded hose. was short.
hopefully the 250$+ i have spent total on hose and fittings is not a big fail and they hold pressure. ordered twice and then more, big fail trying to be cheap ha.
probably on to gears / shafts tomorrow while waiting for some ods and ends parts. i think diff covers are the only thing i need to settle on making or buying.
floor and roof tins ect, winch.
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petals remounted
rear gears in and housing painted
front axle torn down.
exhaust manifold leak someone forgot to weld 1/4" spot somewhere i was able to get at and weld while on the car!
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moving right along.. 8)
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gears and shafts finished up both ends, painted.
rolled the dice on ebay drive slugs @24$ each, they look great, and fit great. burned up some caps with some spacers. quick fun project.
first diff cover bent up on nicks brake, test fit, half welded. will final weld the ring while bolted to housing. need to grab more 5/16" plate this week or just make a 3/16" one for rear.
rolling along!
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solid 10 min rip around property. thing hawgs and shifts great, gearing is great crawls up concrete wall with ease at idle. rear stear and front steer seem fine.
need more brakes. i have dual 1" bore willwoods, just ordered 1.25" to get more volume. dual piston front F350 calipers on all 4 corners taking way too much volume to do anything. everything bled and working, just need more flow.
axles filled and done.
need some floor work, asses winch situation. couple leaks and othe comfort items. harnesses, roof probably a bit more but major stuff is knocked out.
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how's the shoulder to manifold comfort and noise situation? Satisfactory?
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it was tolerable with just the initial header wrap i had.
today i added 2" of fiberglass mat and 2 aluminum sheilds over that. the initial header wrap is like 4-5 layers thick.
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last two days this thing is really coming together.
roof done, winch mount done, started on side tins. harness tabs in. more painted.
new masters came in tonight so i have some cad work to do to get them adapted to the willwood mount. looks promising.
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I think this thing is done for a shake down run next weekend.
full chassis painted and should harden up nice with the day off tomorrow.
just waiting on another pack of hardware for last side tin, and a hydro fitting i have to swap for clearance to winch mount at full bump.
solid rip for another 10 minutes around the property, crawls like a goat on any of my concrete walls. burned off the header wrap steam.
steering has a hint of cavitation noises
lots of power
lots of gearing
brakes are 40% improved with new MCs and it now has more brake than i can push, so improvement would require assist or petal geo change.
in a sketch situation, grabing cutting brakes doubles stopping power
really lack of braking reversing idle power down a wall is what prompted wanting more brakes but i think its tolerable now.
only one or two final things on my list
need to add oil pressure sheild at turbo inlet. could be major safty issue if one of the 5 china fittings failed with hot oil up there 12" from my head.
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winch mounted, winch box mounted and wired, hydro fitting swapped out for clearance, last of side tin bolts in.
final zip tie and check.
i think the only wants that could be done are
hook up hydralic brake switch (got deleted with new masters)
tie down loops on axles
horn
oil feed sheild on turbo
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Looks wicked!
Using those tires? or getting new ones?
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the braked side tins look great. good call with the HDPE lowers.
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tires have gone crazy expensive, i have a lead on grabbing a set this weekend, but im not sure if i can stomach the expense.
those are 39 red labels. 3 are ok, one is beat. i dont have a matching spare.
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Worn out tires work! ;D
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I bet it'd still work damn good with a nice groove job
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the bad one has steel belts already showing on edge wear.
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There have been Humble Pie winners with clapped out reds missing chunks and belts showing…
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loaded for the weekend. im tired.
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that was a lot of work
loaded for the weekend. im tired.
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i kinda forced my self to not cut corners and just do it once the way i want it done, so its done.
other than messing with vacuum hubs (mostly because amazon refuses to ship the 2$ orings i ordered 4 months ago and im still waiting as a matter of principal to not pay 8$ each) and a horn, and brake switch- its done.
running stock map with wastegate open this weekend. my tuner cant do it and his real tuner laughed and said never again will he do an ecotec e37 turbo tune, they are a nightmare. bah!
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are you bringing it to f&f??
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yes
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Oh wow, talk about jumping right in the deep end! Good luck!
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Things aren’t cooperating to try and get myself there. I was going to since I ended up not having to work Saturday, probably end up being a pretty late departure Friday after little sleep tho. Not writing it off quite yet. Maybe 25% chance
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what a cool weekend. i had fun. it even rained a bit and i still had fun.
new buggy exceeded my expectations on the first black trail. thing is nuts. i have much to learn how to drive.
shake down results:
-slight clearance issue with aluminum tin on left front air shock
-power steering pump whine- needs return to tank port moved to reduce airation, and or better fluid, and or better pump. but tolerable.
-transmission protection in tune- only gives you about 1/3 power if your bound and 0 wheel RPM. floggs if wheels are rotating. not a converter stall or boost issue- def a GM protection issue of the 4t45.
-slight bent rear lower link already- may need to up size to 2 or 2.5" 7075 lower links
-RAM guards needed front and rear
otherwise, its a blast to drive and i think once i learn to drive it, its going to be quite the capable rig.
had a set of like new 42s delivered to park. that hurt, and i dont want to talk about it haha
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incredibly smooth shakedown, nice work!
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looks awesome
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excellent!
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trans tune changes made
steering ram guards added
ram bolts trimmed
tin to airshock interference trimmed
power steering returned moved and seems to have quieted pump
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loaded back into the trailer this morning for the weekend again.
picked up another lowrance elite 5m of FBM for 40$ thats a win, didnt get it mounted but will.
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found some big rocks and AOAA and continued to push this thing.
im still super impressed but the OEM 1550 shafts are not going to cut it.
had steering locked both ends and just cresting a small turtle rock, idle crawling no impact or shock and snapped a rear outer stub like nothing.
just doing some quick research, i think ill try a pair of rear 4340 stubs first. then go biger money to 40 spline. stubs are on ebay right now for 156$ each. 40 stuff will be about 5K for both axles. bah.
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1570 lbs front
1580 lbs rear
3150lbs
With toolbag and fuel.
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nice and light!
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I don't think I'd hesitate to run 35spl chromo inners and keep the stock carriers. The biggest thing is how short the unit bearing stubs are... there is nothing there to take up any of the torsional load so they just snap. I think you'll end up needing 40spl outers.
<3200lb ready to wheel rear steer on 42s is awesome. You'd have to spend a lot more money and do stupid things like tiny links and 3/4 heims on lowers to do much better... not worth it for something you want to beat on all weekend.
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lowrance GPS mounted.
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started re drill of hubs
chromo stubs should be here tomorrow also while its apart.
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measured 1500 psi on rear steer ram at full lock. sounds like thats the relieve on the rear steer spool valve set to that. unplumbed the test gage before i thought about that.
might increase relief on rear steer spool (has a manual screw set) if there is anything left there between pump relief.
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removed wheel adapters 8x170mm to 8x6.5
re drilled hubs to 8x6.5 and now 3" narrower.
i used the wheel adaptor with studs pulled as a template bolted to each unit bearing and then center punched the new hole pattern. center drilled and then drilled to size on Mill.
had to turn down OD of unit bearing bore for 8x6.5 wheels (chevy bore) also on lathe.
probably about 2 hours of labor and 4 hours of machine work. seemed like a lot of work but i guess wasn't too bad.
swapped in 4340 stubs in the rear also while it was apart.
adjusted steering ram as now i only have 1/8" clearance in rear of tires to link at full lock :o
everything else nice and tight.
realized i turned down hubs much more than they needed to be as i forgot about where the rotor lives. but now it would take chevy rotors if i wanted. (had to drill Ford rotors to 3/4" lug holes to catch the 8x6.5 new pattern.
wheels bolted on without issue like factory so i guess it was a success with the tolerances i achieved.
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fixed steering hydro tank sight tube leak
fitted ecotec engine cover after taking a second look at it, i thing i like it
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its funny what feels like a lot of work now would have been " i just got to blah, blah" into the wee hours of the night and then wheel the next day. :o
removed wheel adapters 8x170mm to 8x6.5
re drilled hubs to 8x6.5 and now 3" narrower.
i used the wheel adaptor with studs pulled as a template bolted to each unit bearing and then center punched the new hole pattern. center drilled and then drilled to size on Mill.
had to turn down OD of unit bearing bore for 8x6.5 wheels (chevy bore) also on lathe.
probably about 2 hours of labor and 4 hours of machine work. seemed like a lot of work but i guess wasn't too bad.
swapped in 4340 stubs in the rear also while it was apart.
adjusted steering ram as now i only have 1/8" clearance in rear of tires to link at full lock :o
everything else nice and tight.
realized i turned down hubs much more than they needed to be as i forgot about where the rotor lives. but now it would take chevy rotors if i wanted. (had to drill Ford rotors to 3/4" lug holes to catch the 8x6.5 new pattern.
wheels bolted on without issue like factory so i guess it was a success with the tolerances i achieved.
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i still cant get use to only putting 2-2.5 gallons of fuel in the new buggy after a long day of wheeling instead of 10-12
banged together another set of 1480 shafts
sourced 30 pack full C clips for 1480/1550 joints
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Do you miss the horsepower of the bigger motor? Or is it a different style of wheeling (more finesse instead of powering through)?
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at 150hp and 3150lbs vs 280?hp and 5500lbs i dont really feel a difference. this car is gear lower with a max speed of about 35mph id guess also.
but the biggest difference it has 3 times the traction and rock crawling ability than my other car, i have not needed any more than 1/2 the power this thing has yet.
way less frustrating and more enjoyable to me and others around i think ha
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pretty good performance this weekend, 2days rausch, 1/2 day AOAA
found out on comp course (full nose dive) fuel system sucks air, tank at 60% full id say. need to think about that.
also after long day of wheeling in 95degree, fuel vapor lock occured 1 or 2 times. fuel temp was hot when i checked it lol
solid 20 minutes of red trail crawling/humping up hill, it got to 230 once and i stopped, let it recover running for 5 min then good.
pulled apart a front air shock Saturday, needs real corner limit straps if continued dumb things are going to be wheeled.
sourced 3 air shocks on FBMP and got them delivered to park, wheeled today
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16" 2.0 air shock shaft:
FOX-816-02-010-KIT
2.0 air shock seal kit
FOX-803-00-006-A
2.0 air shock lower end
FOX21301211C
for joe: 2.0 sway
2.0" Bump Stop / Air Shock
SAW-52400-102-1 : 2.0" Bump Stop or Air Shock with 1-3/8" shaft.
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3 air shock rebuild kits on the way
66' of 2" 12K lb webbing on the way to make 4 limit straps.
ordered a pair of 36" PRP straps i found on amazon at an odd low price of 19$ each (only quantity 2 avail) as backup but unsure of delivery date before next trip.
ready to wheel as of now but next hit list though when i get through the shop load later this week:
add 36" limit straps on 4 corners (16" shocks are 38" extended eye to eye)
add fuel cooler
add fuel walbro pickups or hydra mat
rebuild at least the one new to me air shock that has a few drips of oil after 4hrs of aoaa wheeling
install my superwinch and retire the bunker to a rear suck down.
fix temp wiring on in cab fan to more permanent
lean back seat as much as reasonably possible / relocate shoulder harness bar as needed
add some keys/phone/water/lunch storage
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working on some limit straps. need to grab some more needles.
shopping for a used industrial straight stitch machine haha
need to get some 210 thread and big boy needles also. but initial results not horrible with the HD thread i have a huge spool of.
3 layers of 12K recovery strap fine (red), 4 is pushing it (orange) on the singer 9410 Tom gave me.
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3 air shocks disassembled, cleaned, leak checked. two got new seals/rebuild parts. so i have 7 good air shocks now and a spare rebuild kit.
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4 walbro pickups installed.
shocks have limit straps now.
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FF update after 2.5 days of red trails:
-no fuel pickup issues. some fuel vent leakage that may deserve larger/ better 3 sides and down venting
-Bunker winch found to be inop after a few successful uses then no engagement randomly. disassembled planetary on trail, and re clipped loose C clip, back in action.
-Right rear ujoint cap found cracked- replaced with new caps and full C clips. shafts in good shape. good catch by MikeMike
-found nose up vertical limit on gate of Devels Bunghole- trans started leaking fluid out of vented fill cap. Cap modified back at camp with up and down vent. replaced 2quarts of ATF
left at FF fully operational with truck and trailer for next weekend event again. hitched a ride home with MikeMike, riding out back with Joe Friday AM.
Like to start thinking about fluids roll over as its enivatable. PCV is just vented (turbo) so that deserves a 3 sides and down / catch can.
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trying new rubber material for fuel cell cap gasket
have new 3/8" rope for bunker winch
need to fuel and load tomorrow AM
needs a bath. has been put away used hard last few trips lol
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week5 no shipment of HQ 1550 joints- hopefully money comes back from those useless F's
hopefully cora can get some Branik joints headed here from ECG this week.
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continued excuses led to paypal claim filed for 1080 refund
tracked down owner of company, has 13 mutual friends with me- like actual people i have spoke face to face with. messages and emails line up to phone number and location.
https://www.bbb.org/us/ms/ocean-springs/profile/new-auto-parts/hq-offroad-0523-235879013
HQ offroad was wipped from the internet this week, no FB page or website active, still on google (shows his home address? ). work experience on his personal profile has been removed relating to HQ.
next best option was (4) 1550 Branik joints ordered at cost through cora & ECGS @ 1525 bah. Fing bah! hopefully its just the 500$ added expense and not 1080$ lesson, says sept7 for paypal default
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Hope PP reversal works. Sucks they went down the drain. fingers crossed.
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looks like paypal is resolved.
new inner and outer 4340 shafts and branik 1550 joints installed all 4 corners.
rear shaft pulled and new boot installed
rear output pulled and leaking transaxle seal replaced
spare transaxle output machined and welded up
new rear lower links machined and installed with next size up heims
suspension bolt check
grease job
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superwinch mounted and incab wiring done.
rock lights added
coms tested
pretty short list for Humble Pie in a week!
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spent morning at J&J again today
picked up spare Superduty front drive shaft, both front calipers (with sliders and bracket) and rotors (like new), a unit bearing, some dodge parts for matt, a gage cluster for nephews silverado.
got him to 85$ (he said they get 30$ core each! for the 2 piston SD calipers)
not too bad. didnt find a leere truck cap window for Nick.
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2024 humble pie 2nd place
looks like i need some balljoints or ball joint eliminators aft 7.5hrs of flogging on this thing up front
she has a little bit of play on both front uppers
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Congrats!
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I am truly impressed with this build, the mechanic, the operator, and the spotter ;)
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ready to print one for you yet? :D
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Sarah asked why I don't have one yet... hah
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ready to print one for you yet? :D
print?
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all the tabs, brackets, ect are on a laptop for my car for plasma table. 2nd car copy is always easier and better.
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new front ball joints installed
Branik joints greased all 4 corners
full inspection post humble pie, all looks good.
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post Hallowheeling thoughts
Rausch: while in a crazy under cut rock shelf tunnel driving on my right side up hill, white smoke/reduced power was noted intermittently. didn't feel like a fuel issue, and i don't have PCV oil to intake problems (Valve cover is just vented 3sides and down because of boost)
im thinking my turbo oil drain was backed up enough to push oil into turbo / intake charge. might need to add scavenge pump to oil drain.
AOAA Mammoth: took a pretty aggressive but comfortable pace: cut a tire just before first pond in about 30 min. boo. shortly after that the new tire broke its stub. currently running 35 spline 4340 shafts.
awesome weekend. had a lot of fun with everyone.
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looks like its another 1740$ from ECGS or Branik for 40 spline stubs and slugs for all 4 corners. then push the failure to the inner shaft next maybe?
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so your breaking 35 4340 stubs?
looks like its another 1740$ from ECGS or Branik for 40 spline stubs and slugs for all 4 corners. then push the failure to the inner shaft next maybe?
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ya the 42 BFGs and now branik joints just dont care.
currently inner and outer 35 spline 4340 and Branik 1550 solid joints all 4 corners. right rear stub (short side) lasted 8hrs of humble pie and 1/3 mile of Mammoth.
it was a full load static break while bound up/heavy crawling.
at least i still havent blown up the tiny half shafts in the transaxle.
sticky tires pulled and put in storage in my basement. i guess trying to follow BFG rules, guy i bought them from said they were always stored in heated garage all winters since he owned them.
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pulled broken shaft out today when i swapped tires, it took out the inner unit bearing shaft bearing also.
i guess its a bearing held in by a c clip. ill order a few of those. spare unit bearing put on
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I didn’t realize there was another bearing in there. Makes sense for locking hub support of the stub.
Did you price out the direct drive stubs instead of 40sp too? Curious about the price on that.
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no name sketch website stuff is 650 a stub, Branik ones are 850 a stub
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great end to a season.
i need a new shirt i think for next year
https://treadwearapparel.com/collections/madram11/products/madram11-heros-gas-it-tee?variant=42011279851706
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I (= wife) can make custom shirts.
great end to a season.
i need a new shirt i think for next year
https://treadwearapparel.com/collections/madram11/products/madram11-heros-gas-it-tee?variant=42011279851706
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inner bearing on unit bearing that failed on mammoth after shaft breakage changed out with some amazon cheepies 4 pack PN 6009-2RS for 16$
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branik 40 spline stubs and drive slugs for all 4 corners ordered with turkey2024 coupon
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40 spline stuff came. its pretty big. excited for next season!
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Ready for Mammoth take two!
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not yet, ran out of time to drop my tire off to get fixed, i think ill just wait till spring so it doesnt get left outside or transported in slush. made an effort to follow BFG rules and brought the stickies inside for the winter. sitting on a pallet in my basement.
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40 spline
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spare 2.2 and 4T45e picked up today by moms house
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collecting more 42s
should have an extra set of 4 baldies beat on/flip this season
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spare 20s maybe some diy beadlocks
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Bling bling
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when i have my spare 4t45 apart to weld up i need to pay more attention, apparently there are sprokets that can be swapped out to change overall final drive ratio?
http://www.gmtuners.com/images/FWD_trans_ratios.pdf
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42 just fits on my tire machine ha
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thats cool
when i have my spare 4t45 apart to weld up i need to pay more attention, apparently there are sprokets that can be swapped out to change overall final drive ratio?
http://www.gmtuners.com/images/FWD_trans_ratios.pdf
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finished two rigs today on the lift so pulled this thing in, rear swapped over to 40 spline outers and branik slugs. will do front tomorrow am.
started up eye balling left side chassis boat side. looks like a lot of work ::)
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Nothing says you have to do both sides…
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watching humble pie video of me on breakover rock begs to differ. its my main hang up on the left side belly.
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picked up my 42 from Scott that was holed on Mammoth. all better and back mounted.
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I'm impressed that he's still doing that work!
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not sure if he is humping tires still, but he answers txts and coordinates. he has a few guys working for him in the shop
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4 or 5 material try for a gasket that does not swell, shrink, or degreade with NAE10 road fuel
this stuff i found on ebay and it smells like real deal viton not the stuff on amazon that i think is just silocone or natural rubber listed as fake viton or HNBR
new cap gasket made and good initial seal tested good. prior trys did not last a weekend of wheeling before failure and leakage.
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I was just thinking, Potters associates may be able to help you they do seals and gaskets orings
Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
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lost a fuel pump and or fuel regulator Saturday afternoon at FF.
fuel was hot soaked a bit but not horrible. ran to camp and grabbed a new pump and filter, changed both and good.
wasnt able to really confirm if reg was bad, but pump was def not pumping with cell pressurized with air, and outlet open.
regulator made the same weird osculating noises that square body swap i did was doing when same reg failed dead heading. so i think that's what happened and then pump failed because of that. I had used a few amazon corvette regulators but have switched to the much more expensive WIX ones now.
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washed, inspected.
trail fuel plumbing and electric fixes tiddy'd up
full grease job
needs fuel and ready to load back for weekend.
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solid performance this weekend. found some pretty fun buggy lines at AOAA.
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i should probably do this. I think a tensioner stuck at some point and she was rattling really bad, then shut down and was fine again. weird. 2nd or 3rd time it has done this in last couple wheeling trips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086YM1V4W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2LI8F08I6T36S&psc=1
seems like way to many things for 65$
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still quiet as new 2 more times moving it after this trip. puzzling.
i guess i could check the oil / change oil. unchecked since this thing was built. ::)
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front diff was leaking at cover. pulled and inspected. clean oil, gear set looks good, still had setup paint on it. buttoned back up.
Engine oil checked, still looks new. (estimated only 50-100gals run through it since build)
oil drain looks about annoying as 572, so differed.
wheel joints greased again (really trying to maintain every trip)
found upper 3 rear transaxle mount bolts at trans all loose. removed and red locktited.
steering ram pins front and rear only slop found (same wear as 571 would get with single ended ram parts)
heading to Attica Sat morning for a half day trip before family party in Lockport.
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pretty good weekend at FF
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on its lid again yesterday, ball valves work great.
got home about midnight after packing up in rain storm (nice cool shower)
Volt backed into the trailer first try with 2 thoughtfully placed chunks of 2x8 blocking, no dragging or issues, mint. checked straps twice on the way all good.
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jet ski cover trial
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That jet ski cover looks perfect
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pretty happy for 40$ i bet with some sewing machine work and folds i could tighten it up in a few places where its loose so it would shed water well in a down pour instead of puddles.
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that dam trail.
photo credit Hannah
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Ha!
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I like the cover!
Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
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chassis took a couple good hits this weekend i see
also noted my front steering ram is bent :o
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lift inspection / service today
full grease job
some improvements to my trans fill / vent cap made
left rear lower shock mount got hit and needs rear work. thinking to add some support triangles to all 4 locations to avoid failure.
full bolt check
new main 1/2" winch rope
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insufficient cooling this weekend
engine temp from cold to 260 in about 5 miles of haul rds at 25mph. Need to check basics but looking like more exhaust wrap / heat sheilding is needed, possibly delete turbo setup.
end of day fuel also vapor lockd, fuel too hot to hold your hand in.
fun weekend again with new scenery at RockRun
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extra hot radiator blowing on the fuel cell probably doesn't help that cycle. how's rad size compared to stock, and how much hot ambient air from the engine is what's going into the radiator?
could a cross-fan or baffle to get cooler air towards radiator intake help a bunch?
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all things are bad how this is setup i was at the mercy of packaging, im amazed it worked at all honestly.
the turbo exhast cross pipe is right infront of the intercoler inlet, then trans and steering coolers then rad then all that is blown on the fuel pump,lines, regulator and cell lol
rad should be 2-3 times OEM, its an aftermarket aluminum XJ rad with 3 fans.
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added 3 rolls of header wrap to exhaust / muffler for added heat protection
1st oil / filter change since new
full grease job
visual / bolt check
used turbo feed line at idle to drain oil since no access to pan plug ::)
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started Humble Pie prep today after jeep work done.
rear ball joints done (rears still as found on FMBP axle)
looks like one of the rear unit bearings is loose also
need to look at my left side boat side again and decided if im going to do it
helmet check coms
general prep
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wheel joints greased
front right brake banjo fitting loose, empty master, bled.
fueled
tool bag checked
loaded for HP
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humble pie qualifying went pretty good with hero traction. couple spots of minor traffic slowed us down, but really the biggest was the 25mins Nate and Andy made us wait while they were on one of the summit climbs tying to "no winch" but using a crew of people to stack rocks and logs to the point of buffoonery. that was pretty discouraging and annoying. after the first 10 minutes nick wanted me to turn around and leave the trail, we should have it would have been faster to come back later.
Bounty run was less than impressive. my foot was on the floor most of the time with no response of power. Discovered yesterday first hill climb of the day on some Catskills property with Nick, my air filter was packed solid with dust only giving me 1/4-1/2 power if that. knocked / blew dust out, power and boost returned. really bummed about it.
i thought my trans was stuck in 2nd or something was really wrong with PCM tune / torque management.
o well.
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That sucks - I did not realize you were so down on power. Watching 30 runs they all blend together a little but I do remember thinking I expected a little more enthusiasm during yours... makes sense now
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still mad about it ha
i even hassled Joe about his oil soaked dust caked filter when he complained about down on power and made him change it to a new one before his run. never even thought to look at mine. I guess i dont equate dust with Field and Forest, but know better now.
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https://www.unitedsurfprep.com/index.jsp?path=find&a=1&ID=/Media/Blasting-Media/Steel-Shot/dept-5XH