M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: gif on November 14, 2022, 08:04:45 PM
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Picked this up today. It was a lot from an estate sale. Guy had barns full of different types of cars/trucks.
Took this pic right after I loaded it on the trailer.
1930 Ford Model A 4 door Sedan.
I have been looking for a 2 door but his one was in pretty good shape and came with a ton of parts (filled my 8ft bed and inside of my crew cab) that I can sell to the OEM crowd.
Plan is to cut it down to a 2 door and then see where it takes me...
(https://i.imgur.com/EBSSTS2.jpg?2)
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I popped the body off the chassis and have it in the shop.
Sold Chassis/drivetrain and some other parts.
Turns out this is a kinda rare body made by Murray contracted to Ford.
(https://i.imgur.com/hp24tvM.jpg?3)
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I like the suicide rear doors
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I started collecting parts for this build. Ford 1940 front axle, spindles, bones Ford 1998 8.8 rear axle limited slip, 3.73, disk brakes, 31 spline shafts Ford 1930 19"x3" front wheels. Ford 1935 16"x4" rear wheels.
On the hunt for a LS6.0/4L80E
(https://i.imgur.com/Fu4zSSX.jpg?4)
(https://i.imgur.com/6NgQ8Nf.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/r81IfAn.jpg?2)
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picked up a 6.0 / 4L80e today
after parting out the rest I should have a free engine/tranny
(https://i.imgur.com/wuLVWeSh.jpg?1)
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I plan to run Ford 1935 16" spoke rear wheels.
Coker Firestone rear tires in the 750x16 size are $288 each
I found that 235/85R16 are just about the same over all size @ $130 each.
Made a tool and spent some time straightening spokes.
(https://i.imgur.com/F4uL9Wfh.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/VA7cOZGh.jpg?1)
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nice!
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Van engine and tranny pulled.
(https://i.imgur.com/hv8AxDBh.jpg)
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P59 PCM checked out good. This is a version that can support DBW & DBC (has IAC driver). BIN flashed to an OS that I can edit/tune.
(https://i.imgur.com/5FUWKLEh.jpg)
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Converted the rest of the box van into a trailer with a walking deck to access the front door.
Just needs paint on the raw steel and wire up the 4 pin trailer harness to the box lights wiring.
Sold the rest of the van to a scrapper. Score!
(https://i.imgur.com/BP7LjQLh.jpg)
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Painted and cleaned up. Gas tank drained. Skipped the wiring (next guys problem)
SOLD and gone.
(https://i.imgur.com/DpB3BiKh.jpg)
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awesome!
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did some actual work on the sedan today, removing all the wood structure from the doors.
Doors are built like the body.
Being the Town car sedan means LOTS of sub frame wood for all the trim to attach to.
Hundreds of trim nails and wood screws...
I will replace all that with steel. Pic for reference.
(http://model-a-ford.com/images/s_p_3b.jpg)
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That’s pretty neat
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With the wood structure removed, I'm left with just the sheet metal skin.
Next will be to build the body back up with a steel sub structure.
(https://i.imgur.com/Yr3g8Axh.jpg)
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Wheel prep for tubes and tires. Sandblasted and checked for cracks/pitting/trueness. Picked the best out of the bunch and painted.
(https://i.imgur.com/s2lp9hXh.jpg?1)
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rear tires mounted with tubes. FYI baby powder is your friend when installing tubes.
Sucks that the wheel that look great has a small runout. The wheel with all the pitting is true. O-well. run it!
(https://i.imgur.com/4bIeGPhh.jpg)
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Miss on my part. >:( The explorer 8.8 is too narrow for this body. I just assumed that all Model A bodys are the same width.
So back to market place for an axle. Found a D44 out of a 1978 Ford F100. $50. super clean southern axle. however the 2.72 gears suck. I will address that later.
First I had to do a test fit and make sure i had room for the backing plates not to rub on the body. Looks good.
(https://i.imgur.com/mm8jCZwh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PpfrsdSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tHQ74Ach.jpg)
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Front tires finally showed up. Had to cancel an order through Jegs for Coker tires that kept getting delays and was ultimately "back ordered" until end of March.
Found same tires on Ebay for cheaper and shipping included. Shipped in 4 days. ::) These tires are small, 450x19. They use motorcycle tubes!
Big/little staggered wheels/tires. Rears 235/85/16.
Grabbed all the steel I think I will need. Prices have come down.
(https://i.imgur.com/lcL9bc0h.jpg)
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grabbed a good looking set of D44 3.73 gears off eBay. $75 shipped. They came out of a J10.
This look up is awesome.
https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/read/19166926/front-and-rear-axle-catalog-spicer
(https://i.imgur.com/ohapbeyh.jpg)
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Building the body back up in steel. Found good inner fenders in the pile of stuff that came with this car. got them and rear doors welded in.
(https://i.imgur.com/0Lm3mzvh.jpg)
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Cowl patch panels welded in. Started the sub frame for the body. The body panels without the wood is like a wet noodle. Takes lots of cross bracing and measurements to get everything square. I got the A & B pillars and the rear welded to the sub frame. That only took 15 hours...
(https://i.imgur.com/3WXef2oh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K4HDEyRh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8XNWyKRh.jpg)
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Underside of the body sub frame and some supports welded in. Body is starting to stiffen up. Jumped on the frame next. Just the rear so far. Going to try something different for the front frame rails.
(https://i.imgur.com/14cJ2f7h.jpg)
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Got the body in a fixed position with 4 mounts to the frame. I will have two more body mounts mid frame once I get a better idea of the floor layout.
Put the engine and front axle in position so I can start to design the front frame rails. Car is sitting at target ride height.
(https://i.imgur.com/SP8BIlRh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1GreUmth.jpg)
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trying something different for the front frame rails. using the same 2x3x.125 tube and cut every 2"
(https://i.imgur.com/Caj7Ca2h.jpg)
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cool!
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thanks, its going to be a LOT of welding and grinding...
cool!
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Very unique!
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Well this project just stalled. Had a bad ski crash this weekend. 5 broken ribs, broken scapula, broken clavicle and a punctured lung.
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damn! speedy recovery. lung sounds the scariest bit of that by far
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Ooof! Prayers for you my friend.
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:o
bah!
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damn! Sounds painful. How's the healing process going to be like for that? Are you in a body cast or what?
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wow, speedy recovery.!
really cool idea for the front frame!
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damn.. you seem to brake yourself quite often!
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Dang
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here are the Xrays showing the damage. You can see the clavicle break right next to the hardware from the previous surgery. The last Xray has arrows pointing to the 5 broken ribs on my back.
(https://i.imgur.com/nOH0PkXh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xikKzoXh.jpg)
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Rear is a roller with 4 link and coilovers.
(https://i.imgur.com/YLpHTbqh.jpg)
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Hope that means recovery is going / has gone well!
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Yup, im @ 97%. Final xRay next week. Hope to be cleared for MTB season.
Hope that means recovery is going / has gone well!
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started mounting the engine/tranny.
(https://i.imgur.com/sonzs0hh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bZ0Kr39h.jpg)
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Upside down mounts.?! :o
Front crossmember/spring mount for front axle next. I. have. a. plan....
(https://i.imgur.com/ZCqQvnth.jpg)
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Got the engine and tranny mounted. clearance cut the firewall for the tranny. Got body bolted back on.
Next started on the front crossmember. this was a packaging nightmare, but got it fitted and looks good.
Then worked on the radiator and shell mount. takes time to get the design to be strong/easy to use/look clean.
And when your done it looks so simple...
(https://i.imgur.com/ZNBFSIlh.jpg)
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I had someone ask how i cut perfect circles for the fans.
I have a set of circle jigs i have made over the years.
(https://i.imgur.com/a5t4zXEh.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/qxTvNr5h.jpg)
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Rolling chassis status. Trying something new for the front spring shackle mounts on the bones. Using poly bushing.
You have to have the suspension loaded when you fab the mounts so the shackles are on the same plane. Then hours of fitting the small boxing pieces.
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Almost time to get back at it. Started ordering the next round of parts.
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Fall projects out of the way. Back to the Sedan. Started by moving the drivetrain forward 3/4". Test fit the low profile oil pan. Working on the body floor and sub frame.
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Started on the steering. I liked the cowl steering a lot on the Coupe, so I figured I would do it again. Mopar steering gear mounted. Scored a 16" (Chevy?) steering wheel.
(https://i.imgur.com/ExFjzSJh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZltzP3rh.jpg)
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You wouldn't happen to have a "remote rod" for a inside door handle kicking around from a 30-31 door would you?
Looks like they cease to exist these days.
I'll end up bending one up worst case, but thought I would ask.
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Sorry, probably ended up in the scrap pile.
You wouldn't happen to have a "remote rod" for a inside door handle kicking around from a 30-31 door would you?
Looks like they cease to exist these days.
I'll end up bending one up worst case, but thought I would ask.
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I never pass on 1935 wire wheels. These will clean up nice.
Got the steering wheel mounted. Shop clean/reset and then on to the master brake cylinder.
Was looking for a 4L80e shift kit. Prices are 2x what they were 2 years ago. WTF.
(https://i.imgur.com/4rhMhzRh.jpg)
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Solid couple of days. Cowl/under dash sub frame and supports are done. Master brake cylinder and pedal is in. Under dash panel is ready for electrical hardware (on order). Driver steering arm is done. Working on the steering gear arm, made of 1/2" plate.
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Steering gear arm bent to shape. PCM mount done. Couldn't find a good price on a 4L80e shifter kit, so bought a eBay 350 one and modded it. More floor and interior body work. Ordering next round of parts, gas tank, battery,...
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All new 1350 driveshaft is in. Battery and fuel tank locations in. I normally mount them to the frame. But for packaging and ease of servicing I mounted them to the body.
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Did the final welding on the body sub frame and then started to install the floor panels.
(https://i.imgur.com/THOtXcph.jpg)
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Covid slowed me down for a few days. But back at it tonight. Floor and back rest complete.
Also did some sub frame boxing and finish welding.
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Center hump in. Test fit for the seats.
(https://i.imgur.com/pFNXX8jh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IaQvY58h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2ldK01gh.jpg)
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Tranny tunnel complete.
(https://i.imgur.com/kjdkoxJh.jpg)
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For the rear deck I am making hatches to gain access to the battery, tranny cooler and the fuel tank.
This is very time consuming.
(https://i.imgur.com/mYJjwTfh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s4kygtRh.jpg)
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did you end up being happy with that vinyl paint? going to black these seats also?
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Was good for my application. Wouldn't use it on my chevelle.
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All the access hatches are done. That was a lot of work...
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Looks great
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Thanks. I'm almost at the point I can chop the top down. I'm thinking a 6" chop for this one. :o
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Rear deck is done. Planning out the 6" roof chop.
(https://i.imgur.com/p8ksBhwh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gKKV1Vuh.jpg)
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6" chop. 8)
Set the top back on to make sure I still have good head room. I have plenty. Next I will need to clean up the cut gaps so I can weld the top back on. Car is 46" tall
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Looks great!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Roof chop welded back on. Now I need to finish the rest of the roof.
(https://i.imgur.com/xdacSqsh.jpg)
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Doors cut down and fitted with new upper lip. Windshield frame cut down and fitted with new hinge. New 2x2x16awg A pillar header.
Roof was more work than i was expecting. The old wood filled a 1" gap between the roof panels and the door tops. I decided to fill that space with 1x1x16awg. The fun part was that the roof line narrows back to front and the tops of the doors are dome shaped. So the 1x1 had to curve on two different planes..
(https://i.imgur.com/zcvOjcch.jpg)
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Decided to start the exhaust. You ALWAYS have a few broken exhaust manifold bolts to remove. This is the first time I have not been able to remove a bolt. I have TWO that wont come out. Broken extractor, broken bits, lots of welded nuts that just kept breaking the bolt deeper in the head. >:(
(https://i.imgur.com/uVl9YLlh.jpg)
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some tricks i picked up while doing this a 100 times.
clean / wire brush die grind what ever steel is left in the whole
weld on a 1/4" washer first, then the nut.
the whole is pretty deep, enlarge the first bit of the hole with a 3/8" drill bit to give you a little more room the get the weld to stick
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i guess if your breaking the bolt though thats not going to help you. maybe try pre heating the aluminum around it?
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that pile has the washer/nut trick too. the trick that was my fail safe was to drill the stud with a 1/4" bit about 3/8 -1/2 deep. then i would have an all steel "pocket" to fill with weld out to the nut. if you look you will see different length chunks of studs on the nuts. Im down to one still stuck. I will fuck with it later. i have enough bolts to mount the exhaust flanges and start fab of the Lake headers.
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10" Chevy headlights modded and mounted. ebay score. glass and buckets in good shape. I will clean the reflectors and mod in some LED bulbs. Found front and rear turn signals I like and got them on the way.
Ordered up a 40"x70" sliding ragtop. 8)
(https://i.imgur.com/c5lGFyVh.jpg)
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Pinched down the front frame horns and mounted the front turn signals. Dug out a pair of old Yankee Clipper fog lights. Used a Model A headlight spreader bar and mocked them in place. Im not sure if I like the look yet, but its growing on me. Front shocks also mounted.
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Looks good to me
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Late 1930's Chevy tail lights.
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Back to work on the exhaust. Still playing with the angle of the tip. And need to build the muffler insert.
(https://i.imgur.com/EYQ5l34h.jpg)
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Is that engine just a place holder? Looks a little crusty…
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That is how every one has looked during the build process. I don't bother cleaning them up until final assembly.
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Is that engine just a place holder? Looks a little crusty…
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Exhaust complete.
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I needed to lay the seats back and keep them as low as possible. Pulled them apart to mod the frame. Added 10deg the back support and moved the mounting bolts inboard for better access from the underside. Got the driver side fitted and bolted in it final location. All that starts with "im going to mount the seats real quick..." Pass side should go much quicker. Not bad for $10 seats.
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Seats done.
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Fuel tank complete. In tank pump and pickup. Sending unit. Gas filler connections. Used the WIFI scope to verify the fitment/placement of the fuel pickup sock in the sump.
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Dash
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Roof opening for Ragtop frame. 35.75 X 67
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Ragtop frame is fitted. Lots of work adding support to stiffen up the roof. Got the header bracing done too.
That should be it for the roof fab. Moving on to the interior panels.
(https://i.imgur.com/BCDSMB1h.jpg)
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Working out the doors. Started by seeing if i could get the door latch hardware to free up. Next was getting it mounted. With all the wood removed there is nothing to mount the door latch hardware to. Made up some internal brackets and got the latch and the inside/outside door handles mounted. Next will be some bracing to stiffen the door and then some sheet metal the over top.
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My plan was to plug weld the lower door panel on. But after dropping a few screws inside the door I thought it might be nice to be able to remove the panel. Using 1/4-20 nutserts.
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Door sill plate installed. B pillar support added. Door shuts nice and solid now.
On to the drivers door...
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Doors, b pillars, door jams fab complete.
Seats fit perfect.
(https://i.imgur.com/dNI3PZeh.jpg)
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looking good!
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Thanks.
Interior panel. Diver side next. Im getting close to being done with sheet metal work.
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Just a coupe of small patches to do and I think im done with sheet metal work. Going to start laying out the electrical and populating the dash.
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Added some bling.
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Laying out the electrical and dash.
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Neat and tidy, as always
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Working through the boring stuff. Custom fitted radiator hoses (i hate the look of the universal ones) and Serp belt. MAF sensor fitted to air filter and 102MM intake.
Also prepped the factory engine/tranny harness, removed all non used PCM pins/wires. Labeled and ready for layout and hand wrap tape. Almost ready for final tear down.
(https://i.imgur.com/HhXaaqeh.jpg)
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I attached my most recent PCM Pinout. This is one I made for the 2003-2007 Vans with 6.0 / 4L80e DBC that I primarily use.
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Success! Was able to get the broken extractor out. It was a Matco, but i wasnt nice to it either.. Drilled out the rest of the bolt and tapped.
(https://i.imgur.com/2g9izIZh.jpg)
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Throttle pedal fab and cable install done. Scored a NOS 10.5 tablet in white to match my color scheme. Took 2 hours to load all the updates.. But got it loaded with Torque app and ready for final dash GUI config.
Working on O2 sensors bungs next. Then I think I'm ready to pop the body off.
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I may have gone too low.. ::) I need to raise the car 1.5"
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Done. 3" at the front. 3.5" at the rear. Gives the car good ground clearance and the perfect amount of rake. I like it. 8)
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Working on the ebrake setup. using late 40 Chevy truck hand brake that smike saved for me.
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E-brake sorted. I think i'm ready for teardown and finish welding.
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Pulled apart and started welding the chassis.
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Added some extra plate on the underside of the chassis front hoops and some fishplate on high stress spots. Chassis welding complete.
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Exhaust and 4 link welding complete.
(https://i.imgur.com/Mkl4WcKh.jpg)
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Front bones and rear link tabs welded. This tennis elbow is really slowing me down. Grip strength is like 50%...
(https://i.imgur.com/NLxuh7rh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ScCzUS0h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/58Z5Bgjh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Oe9KJrth.jpg)
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Put down some etching primer on the wheels and chassis. Had to pull the tires back off so I could re-sandblast the wheels and the other set I found in better condition. Going to follow that up with a shot of sandable primer before I apply the final color(s).
(https://i.imgur.com/BKZ3UT7h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yBtooCGh.jpg)
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Chassis and some suspension stuff painted.
(https://i.imgur.com/g5fCh61h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CjmZv0Ph.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/akdZ6Wuh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4Lho1m4h.jpg)
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looking shinny!
ill wrap your axle up tomorrow AM
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Was sandblasting the rear brake parts and notice the Ford logo. I would think it would only come on factory installed parts.?..
If so, thats not bad for an axle from 1978.
(https://i.imgur.com/vYAxlpBh.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/PrbK0fph.jpg)
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Rear axle ready to install. 3.73 gears and all new bearings, seals and brakes.
(https://i.imgur.com/T0zvdbRh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ToGx7zgh.jpg)
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Started reassembly.
(https://i.imgur.com/sM58pHRh.jpg)
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Well after a few tweaks to the front cross member and repainting (the additional welding pulled more than i expected), I got the car back to rolling status. All grade 8 hardware and top locks. Front wheel bearings packed and all seals and brake hardware installed. I can now call the chassis complete. Got the wire wheels painted in the final color. Slowly prepping the body for some basic flat black primer paint. Engine and tranny prep in the queue.
(https://i.imgur.com/Wm6c7aYh.jpg)
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I was watching a '29 Model A on bringatrailer today and it sold for 42k.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1929-ford-model-a-164/
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He was asking $60k... :o
I was watching a '29 Model A on bringatrailer today and it sold for 42k.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1929-ford-model-a-164/
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Sandblasting off 94 year old paint...
(https://i.imgur.com/2hWWpNgh.jpg)
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Matte black.
(https://i.imgur.com/MIf61Rmh.jpg)
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looks good
what kind of paint are you liking to use?
i think the next one i do will be flat black or another red oxid primer.
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SEM 39674
looks good
what kind of paint are you liking to use?
i think the next one i do will be flat black or another red oxid primer.
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Temporally dropped the body back on the chassis, mostly to get it out of my way. Collecting the next phase of parts & hardware.
(https://i.imgur.com/K615SgVh.jpg)
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lookin good!
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That time of the year to get back into the shop. I decided I wanted to give this car a little more oomph. Going for a 500hp build.
Using this as a guide for the LQ9 I plan to put in the Chevelle.
(https://i.imgur.com/eiKrQw8h.jpg)
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This is a LQ4 (6.0) with unknown miles. I also didn't get to hear this one run before I pulled it, only got to hear it pop and stumble on starting fluid. So I figured this would be a candidate for a rebuild. And if I was going to rebuild it might as well throw some HP at it. 8)
I have the engine completely apart and everything looks fine. All bearings look good. Typical carbon and gunk.
I discovered that the best cleaner for carbon is easy off oven cleaner. Then clean that with water with a little degreaser in it and then brake cleaner and air gun off. Finally coat everything with WD40 to not let it flash rust.
As usual, I got side tracked with the cleaning of the engine parts and decided to build a hot tank for the block. I had a 55 gal food grade barrel and a burner for oil fryer. I added some copper tube with holes in it for air agitation.
(https://i.imgur.com/hmzhWekh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CpcejVOh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F9AvXgPh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9oTMHPEh.jpg)
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nice!
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Engine parts for reference:
BTR Truck Norris Cam
BTR LS6 .560" Lift Beehive Valve Springs, Set of 16
BTR LS Truck Valve Seals Set of 16 VS LS HAT
Dura-Bond CH-25 Cam Bearing
GM 12646386 Original Equipment Timing Chain
GM 12556582 Original Equipment Crankshaft Sprocket
GM 12576407 Original Equipment Camshaft Sprocket
GM Camshaft Retainer Plate Gasket & Bolt Kit ARP 134-1003
GM Genuine Parts 12588670 Timing Chain Damper Kit with Bolt, Retainer, and Spacer
Michigan Motorsports LS Rod Bearings Standard Size SI-Series
Michigan Motorsports LS Main Crank Bearings Standard Size SI-Series
GM Genuine Parts 12639250 Rear Block Cover with crank seal
Michigan Motorsports LS3 Head Gaskets with 2004+ Head Bolt Kit
Hastings 2M5170 Stock Piston upgraded Premium Plasma Moly Rings
MELLING M295 Oil Pump
GM Genuine Parts 12573460 Engine Oil Plug
GM Genuine Parts 12560228 Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor
GM Genuine Parts 19420911 Camshaft Position Sensor
GM Genuine Parts 12677836 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
GM Genuine Parts 19236568 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
302-2 GM Aluminum Oil Pan Kit F-Body for LS1 LS2 LS3 LS6, Rear Sump Pick Up & Gasket kit / Holly clone
102mm TB aluminum fabricated intake / Sniper clone.
Gates 45005 Premium Engine Water Pump
ACDelco Gold 38158 Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly with Pulley
ICT Billet Idler Pulley Bracket - Power Steering Eliminator Compatible with LSX LS1 Truck SUV Camaro LS3 ICT 551776-3
ACDelco Gold 38009 Flanged Idler Pulley
Allstar 87024 head pins
ICT Billet LS Engine Block Oil Threaded Passage Galley Plug 551283
ICT Billet LS Water Pump & Thermostat Bolt Kit 551434
ICT Billet LS oil Block Plug
Michigan Motorsports Valley Cover Gasket LS Performance Engine GEN III 97-2007 Gen 3
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Hot tank upgrades because I cant stop myself.. 220V 5500watt heating element, 40a SSR, Watlow 96 PID controller, Type K TC
Wired so I can plug into my welder extension cable. Used the propane to help bring it up to temp. Then shut off the flame and let the controller take over at 130degs. Turned on the air and let it cook for 2 hours. Worked awesome.
(https://i.imgur.com/85Xt3Vnh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BvT7pjlh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kmNNp4yh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5Dph0djh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/51zegjeh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sV31rwah.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bq1EJfah.jpg)
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Block rinsed off, dried and painted. Next drove out the old cam bearings. They look pretty hammered.
(https://i.imgur.com/OkIoVXNh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/veC40c9h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m7p4Sbnh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Rnp0zeIh.jpg)
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New cam bearings installed.
oil passage check with wifi scope
(https://i.imgur.com/rDhKgxMh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/r9I1ZYhh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/12tPnihh.jpg)
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Test fit of the cam. Used a good assembly lube. I just wanted to "feel" the fitment. All good. I will pull this back out before next steps.
(https://i.imgur.com/xBBlxGch.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VEqOnx7h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w7Etnk4h.jpg)
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Cylinder hone complete. 1 min per/cyl head mating surface cleaned and scratched with 120 grit.
(https://i.imgur.com/pxCKsh9h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F6aagOWh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K7Vp6Xbh.jpg)
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New main bearings installed. @ .0015
(https://i.imgur.com/dGXzS8uh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ui4RcdGh.jpg)
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Rings and rod bearings installed. Pistons installed. Cam reinstalled. Timing gears, chain and chain guide installed.
This stuff takes forever...
(https://i.imgur.com/kcsAUxvh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OD32qHeh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QhkkRmCh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mAWtnOoh.jpg)
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Engine back together. Going to leave the shinny bits off until I get it mated to the tranny and back in the chassis.
(https://i.imgur.com/PY9NvHSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ILKwY0ch.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KkFY3hfh.jpg)
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Transmission cleaned, new filter installed. Waiting on pan gasket and rear seal. Mated the engine and tranny and dropped it into the chassis. Shifter gate modded for 4L80E and installed.
ebrake installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/wyNrgh3h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EPguQ75h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/68hJ5Gih.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rCjW6bKh.jpg)
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Body on for the last time and bolted down. Coolant system and grill installed. Headlight buckets fitted with HELLA H4 100/80WTB High Wattage Bulbs and mounted. Turn signals mounted. Started populating the engine. Waiting on 50lb/hr injectors. Working on final brake, fuel and electrical connects. Nicopp brake lines. PTFE braided 6AN fuel lines. 1/0 AWG power wire for rear remote battery. Hand wrapped custom engine wiring harness.
(https://i.imgur.com/ddD20T9h.jpg)
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Engine wiring/harness done. Took longer because I cut every PCM wire to length so that it would look factory. ::)
Rear of car (Turn/Stop lights, Tranny fan, Rev lights, Fuel pump, Sending unit) complete. Starter wiring done. Alternator wiring done. Sill a long way to go for wiring.
(https://i.imgur.com/h1ROITkh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/84F82aOh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OkMBxl3h.jpg)
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Front wiring done, except for the horn, somehow I lost it... Was a cool vintage Indian motorcycle one. Replacement re-pop on order.
(https://i.imgur.com/B5b4lAkh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iVNer71h.jpg)
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Wiring 100% complete. Base tune configured. Going to wait until spring and I can have the shop doors open before I fire it up. Here is my tune log:
Edit Log for 1930 Model A Sedan 6.0L LQ4 DBC 4L80E OS12587603 Base Tune.bin created by TunerPro.
**************************************************************************
01/15/2025 10:02:38 Scalar: G1201 - VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) changed from 0 (0x00) to 2 (0x02).
01/15/2025 10:21:26 Table: B0101 - Main VE Table (Grams*Kelivin/kPa) changed.
01/15/2025 10:23:13 Table: B0102 - VE While Cranking (Grams*Kelvin/kPa) changed.
01/15/2025 10:23:34 Scalar: B0120 - RPM Threshold for Airflow Calculation changed from 4000 RPM (0x5000) to 400 RPM (0x0800).
01/15/2025 10:27:43 Table: B5001 - MAF Sensor Calibration changed.
01/15/2025 10:33:17 Table: B5001 - MAF Sensor Calibration changed.
01/15/2025 10:42:43 Table: B4001 - Injector Flow Rate (Grams/sec) changed.
01/15/2025 10:44:48 Table: B4003 - Minimum Injector Pulse Width (Milliseconds) changed.
01/15/2025 10:46:59 Table: B3701 - Injector Pulse Width Voltage Adjustment changed.
01/15/2025 10:49:58 Flag: G0106 - A/C Auto Recirculation changed from Set to Not Set..
01/15/2025 10:50:08 Scalar: G0901 - Fan #1 Turn-on Temp changed from 284 Deg F (ECT) (0x0DFF) to 200 Deg F (ECT) (0x0955).
01/15/2025 10:50:14 Scalar: G0902 - Fan #1 Turn-off Temp changed from 284 Deg F (ECT) (0x0DFF) to 190 Deg F (ECT) (0x08C7).
01/15/2025 10:50:36 Scalar: G0904 - Fan #1 Turn-off Speed changed from 0 MPH (0x0000) to 45 MPH (0x1680).
01/15/2025 10:51:03 Scalar: G0905 - Fan #1 Turn-on Speed changed from 0 MPH (0x0000) to 35 MPH (0x1180).
01/15/2025 10:51:41 Scalar: G0906 - Fan #1 Turn-on Delay changed from 0.0 Seconds (0x0000) to 1.0 Seconds (0x00A0).
01/15/2025 10:51:48 Scalar: G0907 - Fan #1 Turn-off Delay changed from 0.0 Seconds (0x0000) to 60.0 Seconds (0x2580).
01/15/2025 10:52:15 Scalar: G0908 - Fan #1 Minimum On-Time changed from 0.0 Seconds (0x0000) to 60.0 Seconds (0x2580).
01/15/2025 10:52:55 Scalar: G1203 - Type of Radiator Cooling Fans changed from 2 Fan Type (0x02) to 1 Fan Type (0x01).
01/15/2025 10:53:26 Scalar: H0101 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Pulses per Mile changed from 101605 Pulses / Mile (0x659B) to 94840 Pulses / Mile (0x5ED7).
01/15/2025 10:54:14 Scalar: H0109 - Maximum Vehicle Speed (Non-ETC) changed from 98.0 MPH (0x3100) to 250.0 MPH (0x7D00).
01/15/2025 10:55:23 Flag: B0701 - Catalytic Converter Protection Enable changed from Set to Not Set..
01/15/2025 10:55:47 Flag: B1301 - EGR System Enable changed from Not Set to Set..
01/15/2025 10:56:05 Flag: B1301 - EGR System Enable changed from Set to Not Set..
01/15/2025 10:56:57 Table: G1207 - Vehicle Platform Options changed.
01/15/2025 10:59:05 Scalar: B3608 - Delay Before Entering PE Mode changed from 60 Seconds (0x2580) to 0 Seconds (0x0000).
01/15/2025 10:59:39 Table: B3609 - PE Delay Counter Adjustment (Seconds) changed.
01/15/2025 11:05:42 Scalar: B3610 - PE Delay RPM Bypass changed from 5500 RPM (0x6E00) to 3600 RPM (0x4800).
01/15/2025 11:07:56 Table: B3615 - Hot PE Mode Enable changed.
01/15/2025 11:08:16 Table: B3616 - Normal PE Mode Enable changed.
01/15/2025 11:09:27 Table: B3618 - PE Modifier Based on RPM changed.
01/15/2025 11:11:16 Table: B4603 - Desired Idle Speeds changed.
01/15/2025 11:11:51 Table: B4307 - Desired Airflow (grams/sec) changed.
01/15/2025 11:24:32 Table: B5936 - Idle Underspeed Error changed.
01/15/2025 11:30:30 Table: B5935 - Idle Overspeed Error changed.
01/15/2025 11:33:42 Scalar: B4311 - Throttle Cracker Activate Speed changed from 9 MPH (0x0480) to 10 MPH (0x0500).
01/15/2025 11:35:18 Scalar: B4312 - Throttle Cracker Deactivation Speed changed from 10 MPH (0x0500) to 9 MPH (0x0480).
01/15/2025 11:35:59 Scalar: B1901 - Maximum Allowed Engine Torque changed from 350 Ft-lbs (0x4600) to 639 Ft-lbs (0x7FCD).
01/15/2025 11:36:13 Table: B1902 - Torque Loss from Spark Retard (%) changed.
01/15/2025 11:36:29 Table: B6605 - % Torque Loss from Spark Retard (Degrees) changed.
01/15/2025 11:37:19 Scalar: B6616 - Maximum Rear Axle Torque changed from 10000 Ft-lbs (0x0007D00) to 41943040 Ft-lbs (0x8000000).
01/15/2025 11:37:27 Scalar: B6617 - Maximum Front Driveshaft Torque changed from 2046 Ft-lbs (0x0001993) to 41943040 Ft-lbs (0x8000000).
01/15/2025 11:37:34 Scalar: B6617 - Maximum Front Driveshaft Torque changed from 41943040 Ft-lbs (0x8000000) to 41943040 Ft-lbs (0x8000000).
01/15/2025 11:37:46 Scalar: B6618 - Maximum Rear Driveshaft Torque changed from 2731 Ft-lbs (0x0002223) to 41943040 Ft-lbs (0x8000000).
01/15/2025 11:37:56 Scalar: B6619 - Maximum Transmission Input Torque changed from 885 Ft-lbs (0x0000B10) to 41943040 Ft-lbs (0x8000000).
01/15/2025 11:38:07 Scalar: B6620 - Maximum Transmission Output Torque changed from 2054 Ft-lbs (0x00019AC) to 41943040 Ft-lbs (0x8000000).
01/15/2025 11:38:21 Flag: B6601 - Axle Torque Limiting changed from Set to Not Set..
01/15/2025 11:38:44 Scalar: B6615 - Maximum Front Axle Torque changed from 9334 Ft-lbs (0x00074AC) to 41943040 Ft-lbs (0x8000000).
01/15/2025 11:42:56 Scalar: B1201 - Abuse Management Upper RPM Threshold (in Gear) changed from 1400 RPM (0x1C00) to 7000 RPM (0x8C00).
01/15/2025 11:45:25 Table: B6204 - Knock Retard Limit Not in PE Mode (Degrees) changed.
01/15/2025 11:45:49 Table: B6205 - Knock Retard Limit When in PE Mode (Degrees) changed.
01/15/2025 11:52:25 Table: B5954 - Burst Knock Delta Air Mass changed.
01/15/2025 11:55:48 Table: B5908 - Fuel Mixture Spark Correction (Degrees) changed.
01/15/2025 11:57:13 Table: B5907 - EGR Spark Correction (Degrees) changed.
01/15/2025 13:23:23 Table: B5913 - Spark High-Octane Table (Degrees) changed.
01/15/2025 13:23:56 Table: B5914 - Spark Low-Octane Table (Degrees) changed.
01/16/2025 10:27:02 Table: C6001 - Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Type changed.
01/16/2025 10:27:04 Table: C6002 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Enable / Disable changed.
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Buttoning up this build. Steering linkage installed and adjusted (1/8" toe). Oil dipstick modded and installed. Final install of the Ragtop. I also added a wideband air fuel ratio gauge. I decided this was the build that I would force myself to learn MAF and Speed Desity tuning. I figured with the changes I made to the engine this would be a good learning opportunity. I will be using open source software tools. TunerPro_RT / PCMHammer / Universal Patcher / Custom made Excel Sheets for graphs & Histograms.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZPLC1Hyh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KBn9343h.jpg)
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cool, good luck with the tuning. im going to try to learn as well this spring with my ecotec.
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Gif, with all of the custom work you do, do you ever wish you had a car lift or not?
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Yes, IF i had a larger shop. A lift limits the shop layout. It would be in my way when using the gantry crane. And I used that a lot.
Gif, with all of the custom work you do, do you ever wish you had a car lift or not?
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Great build!
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Filled the car with fluids and fired the engine this weekend. Sounds angry. 8)
This worked great: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/bFzCrPtgD6M
Chased down a few small fuel and coolant leaks.
Ran the engine up to temp a couple of times to make sure the coolant was purged.
Next, need to get the tablet display finalized before I start messing with the tune.
Something up with the Oil Pressure PID in the Torque App and wont display.
But in the logger software I can see the oil pressure.
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I’ve never been successful with an oil pressure reading in Torque
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I had it working on my Coupe build, so I knew it was available.
After messing with the PID editor in Torque, I got it working on this build.
Still need to verify the accuracy of my equation with a manual gauge.
I also want to log the AFR WB gauge, so I used the gauge 0-5v output wired to the EGR input on the PCM.
Blue connector Pin 55. Then built a custom PID for that too.
Add a custom PID:
PID hex = 22115C
Long Name = Oil Pressure Calculated
Short Name = Oil Press
Min = 0
Max = 100
Scale Factor = x1
Unit Type = PSI
Equation = (a*0.65)-16.2
OBD Header = Auto
PID hex = 22114B
Long Name = EGR V
Short Name= AFR WB
Min = 10
Max = 20
Scale factor = x1
Unit type = 10-20
Equation = ((A/51)/.5)+10
OBD header = Auto
(https://i.imgur.com/5o0aaruh.jpg)
I’ve never been successful with an oil pressure reading in Torque
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All my rides have car audio of some type. The previous Coupe build being the exception because of space limitations, and that always bothered me.
So I wanted to have some tunes in this car. I did some research on open air options and the UTV style sound bars kept coming up. UTV guys love them. So i figured I would give one a shot. I narrowed it down to two of the largest ones on the market and went with the PowerBass XL1250.
On paper it sounded great. *pun* Bluetooth to the phone as the source unit, simple power and ground connections, water proof, self contained package.
In real life it sounded like a 1980's boom box that was cranked up past the distortion levels on purpose.
Now granted, I am a car audio snob of the 90's era. But damn, what a piece of $800 crap.
So I returned it and started looking into the new car audio offerings.
In my competition years I was rocking a pair of Phoenix Gold MS2125 and aMQ430.
In the past you had no idea what an amp could really output. But today YouTube has people with Amp Dyno's that test the amps for true output.
Picked my audio gear:
PowerBass XL-50BT UNIVERSAL BLUETOOTH RECEIVER
DOWN4SOUND JP95T WHITE GLOSS | 1500W RMS - 5 CHANNEL AMPLIFIER
CT SOUNDS MESO-6-5-COX // 150 Watts RMS 6.5 Inch Car Coaxial Speakers
CT SOUNDS HYDRO-10 // 500 Watt RMS 10 Inch Shallow Mount Subwoofer (2)
1/0 Amp Power and Ground w/ 250A ANL Fuse & Holder
12 & 14 Gauge Speaker wire
Triple shielded RCA cables
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I built a sub / amp box that fits tucked all the way in the rear of the Sedan and gets bolted in place.
Its made of 3/4 MDF and is screwed and glued together. Normally I would cover the box in non-backed carpet. But this time I wanted something with a clean look.
I found speaker cabinet paint fit the bill perfect. Its the stuff you would find on portable DJ equipment or on concert speakers.
I am just about ready for final assembly and install.
(https://i.imgur.com/1Aix6rCh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HgxBGRmh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/e871Drsh.jpg)
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the cabinet paint looks great. more textured than what I'm used to seeing, almost looks bedliner-ish? looks like it hides the joints pretty well
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Yes, very bedliner-ish, but hard finsh. Comes out of the can like thick pudding.
the cabinet paint looks great. more textured than what I'm used to seeing, almost looks bedliner-ish? looks like it hides the joints pretty well
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Nice! I used to be big into car audio back in the day.
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Installed and tuned. Needs a timer relay for the turn off sequence. Other than I'm pretty happy with it.
It sits on top of the gas tank access panel. Its bolted at the base and the roof frame. The two side panels (tranny cooler & Battery) are still fully accessible.
Also got all the roof jute installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/DAs6S8vh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6jazgCdh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PYqJuCSh.jpg)
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Rolled out under its own power.
Getting closer with the GUI dash layout.
GUI background is a pic of the bare dash.
Probably going to need to raise the rear 1.5"
(https://i.imgur.com/gyrmjWDh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6vQAPbLh.jpg)
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Nice!
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I adjusted rear coilovers to add 1.5" of ride height. Sits perfect now. If I need more I will need to go up in spring rate.
Took it for a quick drive around the block.
Ride position feels good, I definitely fit in this one better. Visibility is ok. Steering feels great. Brakes are firm (non powered).
A built 6.0 is a lot of engine for this little car. I already scared myself!
Punch list:
1) Windshield glass
2) Weepy caliper bleeder
3) Maybe a backup camera
Once I get it on the road I can start tuning the engine and trans. Right now Im forcing it to run on the MAF fuel calibration.
During my drive around the block I noticed it wanted to shift in to 4th sooner than I would want.
(https://i.imgur.com/OywGP8Jh.jpg)
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Sunlight !
(https://i.imgur.com/PVX5w9jh.jpg)
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Sharp work as always!
Sent from my SM-S928U using Tapatalk
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next build, do the opposite direction? ;D
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/auction-classic/ebay-find-1930-ford-model-a-mail-delivery-proto-donk/
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This is my last Model A build.
next build, do the opposite direction? ;D
https://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/auction-classic/ebay-find-1930-ford-model-a-mail-delivery-proto-donk/
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Windshield frame dropped off for glass.
Addressed the weepy front brake bleeder screws.
Installed a backup camera.
Going to hold off on the rest of the interior install (jute/carpet) until I am sure I have all the bugs worked out.
DMV visit next.
(https://i.imgur.com/9rCJqSQh.jpg)
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Great photo!
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Windshield glass in and mounted. Seat belts installed. Trip to DMV successful.
Time to start driving and tuning it. Break in oil is good for 400 miles.
(https://i.imgur.com/eCJ8fZTh.jpg)
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First real drive today. Lots of tuning in my future. The shift points are way off. Its in 4th locking up the TC @ 40MPH ! I need to get that addressed first so the RPMs are in the right range, then tune the fuel.
(https://i.imgur.com/r2AmoXwh.jpg)
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Tuning has been slow going, mostly because this weather sucks.
I have been using a tool called BC_Trans by Bluecat. (Ill attach the .exe) This tool lets you enter your trans specs and will generate the values and tables used to tune the transmission. It has options to change how aggressive you want your transmission to be. (within limits of the TC) I think I have the transmission tune close.
For the engine I have switched over to VE table (speed density) and I am forcing open loop mode with no table adders. I started with the stock VE table and made some blanket changes to the table based on the engine hardware changes.
I think I figured out how to use Universal Patcher logging with real time histograms for the VE table AFR error corrections. Next I need to start taking long drives and log the data so I can make corrections to the VE table.
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Hmm. Right O2 is looking a little suspect. :o Sometimes you get a dud with the cheap eBay O2's. Ordered some Denso units.
Didn't really notice it until I was looking through the data log.
This does not mess with the tuning process, as the O2's are part of the Closed loop and would only affect the short/long term fuel trims.
(https://i.imgur.com/kkfR86Ph.jpg)
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Just about done with tuning. Transmission is all good. The plan is to stay in Open Loop Speed Density mode so I can force the Main VE Fuel Table to keep the engine running a little on the rich side. This also allows me to delete the O2 sensors completely and just use the Wideband AFR gauge. A couple more long data logs to confirm and I should be all set. Dash display is complete too. Had to make a couple math based PIDS so it will display the AFR % error of the target AFR in real time. (that was fun ::)) Still need to balance the wheels as anything over 63 gets the front wheels to hop. Finding a place that can/will balance these old wheels has been a challenge. I'm very pleased with everything else.
(https://i.imgur.com/QTmJHi9h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QeSWdQDh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mA0exZOh.jpg)
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Engine tuning complete. 8) I was able to figure out Universal Patcher histograms to see log data for fuel table changes.
Made some small adjustments to the steering linkage to center the steering wheel while tracking a straight line. Last thing on my shakedown list is to get the front wheels balanced.
(https://i.imgur.com/kBNEAnPh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/z3pL0fFh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/V5nataFh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wMypCjch.jpg)
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And a pic for scale of how small this car is. :o My Truck is stock height.
(https://i.imgur.com/HKa4FAuh.jpg)
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your welcome to see if you can get them to fixture up on my balancer. I can measure the shaft OD and my cones to see if there is a chance it they would fit.
I dont hae a ton of experience using my machine, but it seems to work great every time i use it.
i have modern pound on steel weights and some stick on weights. i dont have any aluminum pound on weights.
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After some fixture magic we were able to spin the wheels on the balancer and get some weights on the wheels (more than I was expecting). Drive at highway speeds was all good. Win!
That should be it for shakedown. Ready for summer.
your welcome to see if you can get them to fixture up on my balancer. I can measure the shaft OD and my cones to see if there is a chance it they would fit.
I dont hae a ton of experience using my machine, but it seems to work great every time i use it.
i have modern pound on steel weights and some stick on weights. i dont have any aluminum pound on weights.
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Switched over to Vintage 1930 NY plates.
(https://i.imgur.com/LuWG4jSh.jpg)
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This was a fun show, about 500 cars.
https://youtu.be/BCQ6uNqTs8g?si=3KGqDucsHtHt-C8c
(https://i.imgur.com/EZ9uCYfh.jpg)
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Sold and gone.
Guy came from Oklahoma.
(https://i.imgur.com/nHrbb1wh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VKPX2Uuh.jpg)
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nice.