M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on February 14, 2018, 09:58:30 AM
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N14 celect 330hp
Rmx-9-145b 9sp w overdrive
Twin screw with diff lock 3.73 gears
275/80 22.5 steers need replacement
295/75 22.5 drives maybe ok
Brake linings all look great
No obvious air line rot
Suspension bushings starting to crack
Minor box damage in 2-4 places
Cab decent
Batteries have some juice after ~3yr sitting
JB Hunt truck, stumpf bought from international after JB sold; stretched it and put this box on.
Box rear doors need work
No man ramp
3’ platform extension on rear
No hitch
Down one fuel tank
Needs mirrors
12.5’ high
28’3†interior length
8’2†wide 8’6†high doors
No obvious bypass on engine. Was idling about to make a run and died. Cummins tech bypassed something and parked it where it sits.
I took 1,000,000 pics but will have forgotten an important one I’m sure.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180214/d1c4720c9058e1eb2aad78c247720842.jpg)
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so its yours now?
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should I warn your neighbors or are you going to?
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Guy to deal with couldn’t make our appt this morning, so no money talk at all.
Can’t get the cab to raise here - hydraulic leak. Some of the only rotten lines on the truck. So I’m a little blind to top of the motor.
I didn’t see any obvious electrical bypasses, so I’m still betting on fuel solenoid. Without playing with it thoroughly it’s paperweight price. Oil looks good. Can’t check coolant with the cab down.
Need to raise the cab to check things over, and it needs at least a temporary exhaust dump or permanent new elbow and stack to move it. That rotted out completely while sitting.
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0.72 od ratio
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It looks like it's been sitting there since at least 2016 minimum. 2016 street view, tires cocked in exact same angle.
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I did the same. I’m told 3yr. Last ifta 2013. Reg/inspection 12/13. So may be more like 5yr.
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Geared to run ~68. I think I read n14 peak torque is 1550.
Go to 11r22.5 and that moves to 71.
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330 @1600 1350 @1100
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84 or 87mph tached out at 1900.
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you were driving it?
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lol, Math i assume not driving
you are brave to consider.
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Math, not driving. 330hp probably wouldn’t push the brick that fast.
It is not currently a runner. It’s shut down with some sort of computer problem, and has been parked ever cents. A Cummins technician got a running to move it to the spot that it’s in right now. I did not see any obvious electrical jumpers around the ECM. I’ve done a lot of reading and I found a very small handful of possible causes, none of which are terribly frightening.
With the Jack hydraulic leak, I was not able to lift the cab to look over wiring more thoroughly. For some reason, I was also unable to use my jump box to get adequate voltage for key – on self tests or reading codes. For some reason, my jump box thought that polarity was reversed when I used the jump terminal. Without being able to till the cab, I cannot get to the actual battery terminals. ECM fuses should be directly off the battery so I was also unable to verify their condition.
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build sheet
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engine dataplate
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4k declined.
5k under discussion on their end.
if it doesn't happen for 5k I'm going to have to think long and hard on it.
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found inframe kit for like $1200. seems too cheap. found reman engines without electronics for 6k with 6 month warranty. ECUs all day for 1500. haven't looked for harnesses.
need a long-term Rochester parking plan, and a near-Pittsburgh work location for a weekend to fix cab tilt & exhaust, and fully diagnose the computer issue and fix/bypass to get it running.
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330hp is going to be disappointing
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330hp is going to be disappointing
It’s not a race truck. At 330HP it probably won’t accelerate like a 400hp 1 ton dodge but at over 1,300 ft•lb it should hold the cruise speed adequately I’d think.
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you are a crazy man!
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All the dodges will outrun it.
Can probably be turned up to 370, probably not beyond that and be in suggested configuration. Trans is rated at 1450, that’s the 370 torque rating.
I’m far more worried about the change from 10-12 to 6mpg than doing 50 up a hill instead of 65.
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hmm.. 6mpg hauling just your car, more of your organized parts/tools plus decent place to sleep vs. 10-12mpg splitting fuel and less of your stuff and sleeping in a tent.. seems like a hard decision(being truthful not sarcastic)
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I haven’t been splitting fuel locally since I’ve been using the enclosed. Which is too small to have descent quarters. I’m pretty sold on it being worth it. Just hope it works out.
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thats a sweet shed. buying it at that price before it moves sounds risky
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Why aren't you doing something like a larger enclosed trailer? Seems like the best of all worlds...
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you are a crazy man!
+1
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Why aren't you doing something like a larger enclosed trailer? Seems like the best of all worlds...
Same storage issues so that’s a push
No extra engine to maintain since I’ll probably end up keeping the truck
Lower tolls on 3 axles than 5
True rv status and more legal in the big truck once converted
Similar economy compared to a big trailer
Nicer to drive the big truck long distances
No more transmission failures - not the first time I’ve done something crazy to avoid repeat failures
Probably less of a gamble but higher purchase price to get into a 48’
My ram really isn’t rated to deal with grossing 32k. Needs a big trans or lower gears. Still be a stressful drive compared to not using something at half rated capacity.
I thought long about it during my drive versus the one ton but didn’t really consider in comparison to a 35+’ trailer. That would require truck upgrades to be comfortable, I think. I was dreaming of the class 8 driving experience in addition to adequate bunk size + puppy space. I think I still am.
When he says no to $5k though I think I just put it on the back burner and carry on in current status.
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IMHO sell the truck and buy one of newer Diesels with auto trans. (GM Duramax w/ Allison, Ford PowerStroke w/ 6R140, Ram w/ Aisin). Broken gears in auto trans are far more rare.
Get a big enclosed trailer like Smike’s and add a living quarter in it to register it as a RV.
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i have gone through a trans and a turbo in 60K with a new truck.
thats fine if your ok with looseing $20K every 3-4 years to trade up and keep a warranty, but that might get old.
its a tough call.
my big issue was having a dedicated towing only device, the reason why i went pickup vs toter. i am completetly over that now, since my truck sits anyway and is 99% used for towing.
I think ill be big truck / toter shopping next.
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I do not have any interest in paying new truck prices for anything. I'm not even sure if I would if it were in my budget. I'd rather drop that extra 20k on spare or better racecar parts or something, than on a newer truck.
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*IF* this works out, towing a 14k enclosed tagged at 9990# may be a useful option as well.
Come to think of it, I wonder what weight EJ's trailer is reg'd at. I don't know what R permit allows you to tow, I know the combination can exceed 26k but I don't know if trailer weight just becomes open, or if it's supposed to be under 10
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$5500 is the number. I told him I’d let him know Monday. I’m leaning towards yes.
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Would it be smart to maybe put a small deposit on it for him to allow you to work on it a tiny bit and figure out what is wrong? To me it seems a little risky pulling the trigger for that price never hearing it run or even being able to look at the motor.
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Would it be smart to maybe put a small deposit on it for him to allow you to work on it a tiny bit and figure out what is wrong? To me it seems a little risky pulling the trigger for that price never hearing it run or even being able to look at the motor.
Agreed
I used to work at a heavy equipment repair shop. It can get expensive and pita fast.
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must insure as commercial until it's camping-ready. $50.50/month. not near as bad as I'd feared with commercial.
No issue at all to work on it in their lot. 0800-1630 M-F, later is possible.
Trying to decide when I want to make my first trip. I'm thinking maybe as soon as Monday. Rather get it sorted sooner than later.
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Planning to go down Sunday night to get to work on this Monday.
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Progressive will insure anything as limited use RV with a VIN as "other"
can be done online in 15 minutes and you get cards good for at least 45 days until someone catches it as sketchy and cancels.
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I carry a personal liability umbrella that requires certain vehicular minimums and disclosure of any non-state farm carried vehicles. Was your rate less-enough than $50/mo to justify the extra headache?
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it was 140 a year for 30 days or less use. i thought you were just going for paper to get plates and fix it later
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good to know, thanks!
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180226/8eaa22547c59fd59eb43283bfa073fc2.jpg)
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o boy the goose is open!
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are you guys staying out there tonight? i see the Tway is still shut down from some pscho
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Just checked back into hotel in Pittsburgh. Didn’t make it run today. Checking ecu tomorrow after putting batteries in to today. I had ecu lights this morning but not after batteries. All power checks out.
Had to fix a few burned wires. They’ve stayed cool so far, uncertain root cause of burning.
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I found a rebuilder for much cheaper than others, they seem to have good reviews. SDI in Illinois. I plan to use them.
Hopefully what they find inside the box will help me out on a root cause.
My current best guess is that putting full voltage and power to it opened something up inside that had been marginal at best on 10-12.0v with no amps behind it. I don't currently know.
The melted wires are power supply wires to things it needs to go, so no.
Air system checks out reasonable, sounds like a small leak behind the tractor control valve ( I didn't remove that section of dash to look, could also be HVAC control) and I found a couple dried out o-rings on push connects that I think feed the tank pressure gauges. suspension aired up with no leaks. air brakes released and truck rolled a hair even it its parking divots. service brakes apply with no leaks. cab latches removed from the cab to repair hydraulics at home to fully repair that system. rotted exhaust parts removed to duplicate or buy new old stock.
paper work done today, it's mine.
Hopefully I return to it with plates and a computer and drive away (along with some rotten fuel hard lines, setting tire pressures and replacing a couple bulbs). timeline TBD.
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PA title is branded RECONSTRUCTED just from the frame being stretched, apparently. Thanks, PA. Going to get documentation on that and going to have to go through a NY salvage inspection and spend and extra $200 for the privilege. Joy.
I think that means I will need to have it outfitted with my camping gear pre-inspection as to not throw red flags about the registration class change. Just what I wanted to make my top priority. I guess I'll be back to looking for a 30/60 whatever day PA transit tag so I can get it home because I'm not going to be able to get NY plates on it until it goes through salvage inspection.
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the salvage inspection station is on blossom rd by winton...
no way they will be able to do much with that truck other then look at it..
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I had an integra with salvage title inspected in 2016, it was a 7 month wait...
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hopefully its better now
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I'll have to check with Erik, I think after it passes safety they'll give you plates, just no title? I don't know.
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It was a 7 month wait for the inspection itself
and also it was 2006, not 16, I'm getting old...
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I fix a number of 907a vehicles, and the wait is still ridiculous.
I would expect 4 months from the moment you mail paperwork in..
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so do you get to drive it in between or does it have to sit? I see a check box for a NY trip permit to drive it to the inspection, nothing about use. I'm guessing it's stuck where it's at.
I can get a PA temp reg up the street, 60 days for $25.
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You saw my post on Facebook.. The NYS paper plate comes with your actual appointment. So if you actually want to drive it around, get a PA temp tag.
Sorry to hear about the hassle..
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Thanks for sharing the knowledge, josh!
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are you sure that NYS will require a salvage inspection? ive heard of salved branded out of state titles being transferred to NYS with no issue, other than still says selvage.
i was under the impression the salve inspection really only applied to the 907a vehicles.
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Yes. My Integra had a salvage title from Florida.
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Documentation indicates that any out of state salvage titles absolutely require inspection. Whether PA “reconstructed†applies is the question. Main DMV customer service directed me to DMV Technical Assistance. I’m hoping that if I get an answer I like via phone, I can get it documented and locked in... seems unlikely.
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the case that occured to me, was a 96 XJ where VA title was clean and no markings. i did paper work at NY, when new title came it said "rebuilt" on NY title. no delays, was just a surprise to me.
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Technical assistance directed me to fast and salvage, where apparently only take calls on Wednesdays due to extreme backlog of paperwork
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I may have a New Hampshire solution…
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Muffler, clamps, and a rain cap are in my hands. 2 90˚ elbows, a foot of flex, and a 10' stick of aluminized 5" will be mine on Tuesday – I think I'll use about 5' of it. Will pick up along with the fuel lines that should be in from Cummins distribution on Monday.
If I don't hear anything by end of day Tuesday, I'll be calling about ECU status. That's the update...
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Confirmed at dmv today that it needs a salvage inspection.
Will get temp reg from PA next time I go down and then mail paperwork to Rapid City. File for salvage inspection with my SD title while running SD plates.
Have all exhaust parts and fuel lines in hand. Have replacement bulbs for burned out markers in hand. Ecu shipped back to me today, due here Friday. Still need to do cab jack hydraulic fittings and lines. that should be it until I find anything else wrong on-site.
I should have noted fuel and oil filter part numbers. Would have been smart to be able to change oil after idling up to temp and fuel filter either if needed or once the suspect fuel is run through.
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ill give you credit for long distance repairs. i dont even want to walk out to my shop.
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might be different when you have a functional shop? I'm picking up what you're putting down in any case.
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SD title & plates?.. guess I probably need to read the Pirate thread for more details...
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That traffic was on fb. SD doesn’t require you to be a resident to title & register there. Very reasonable fees. 4% tax. I talked to dawn in Pennington county and confirmed it can be done 100% via mail and the reconstructed brand isn’t an issue.
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Called SIA just now. they replaced some bad capacitors, replaced the RAM and reloaded the program for my CPL. Ran their test stand engine and all was good. Tech said in most cases it's acid (presumably leaking from failed caps) that causes failures like this and there's really nothing needed to be double checked in the truck side harness.
Me talking - not them: capacitors on the edge certainly make sense to me for something that could be pushed to failure with seeing good strong voltage. I think I'm feeling pretty good about this.
At this point I definitely suggest anyone needing ECU work seek out SIA electronics. I purchased this repair on Ebay, on sale for $360 versus normal price of $400. A reman from other aftermarket outfits is $1500 if your core is good. $2000 without a good core. A Cummins reman is $2800. My local truck salvage outfit (Casey's, in Buffalo) charges $1500 for a used unit with warranty. So this is an absolute steal if it works.
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Wow, SIA has horrid google reviews. Glad it works out for you.
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lots of reasonable responses to the googles. good ink on fb and ebay, figured I'd roll the dice for a 75% discount. we'll see.
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nice work. fingers crossed for happyness after you finished up the other loose ends.
when is the next trip and are you taking plates? i might be up for an adventure this time if you need another hand
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Maybe this weekend? Going to have to include Monday – regardless of yard access to the truck, I'm going to have to get a PA temp registration, so I need to overlap title service hours. Erik is still trying to find a service body for his f250 too, not having luck.
South Dakota turnaround is supposedly 2 weeks, so I don't want to send that stuff off and be stuck.
Sunday-Monday weather looks good too.
I'll keep ya posted...
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PA temp tags are issued my notaries, right? There should be some 24 hour ones
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would a dealer plate help? i might be able to borrow one
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Yes, notaries.
I'd only go dealer plate if I could have access to one for 2-3 weeks while waiting on SD. It's only $25 for the temp from a place a mile or three from the truck. Talked to them last week.
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Go with the 25$ then
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180310/71dc998b9ba8a9078ae74e7293f8cdaa.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180310/ed6e71d373bdd1e24323bf50f3b2076c.jpg)
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very cool people service, test, and return things of this age still today! nice work.
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FB says shows it running! nice work guys
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oh boy, he did it! lol
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180313/da5e2ee0ee7bbfbbdc772072236af4ea.jpg)
After a stop in Butler to install the emergency backup generator we drove through some sweet accumulating snow and landed in the m4 lot around 0415.
Alternator is not charging, or more accurately is barely charging. All normal and some extreme troubleshooting methods were ineffective.
Trans has some sort of issue. Pretty sure it’s not getting adequate air pressure, and quite sure it’s in the range box. It can get into 2 gears and jam itself. This is annoying at a level toll booth. It is catastrophic at a stop light on a hill in Penn Hills PA. I almost abandoned the return trip after buying the generator when it happened a second time in as many stops, throwing distance from Stumpf. Decided there were very few stops left and none on hills so let’s just do it.
Short list of extreme importance: trans jamming issue, oil change, one crunchy coolant hose in particular, headlights, wiper blades, batt charge issue.
Secondary but important: running cool. Little heat. Low fan speed too. Couple dash backlights out. No dash idiot lights. Tires. Other fluids & filters.
I dictated some things on the way as not to forget them. I think I’m missing a couple here.
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Good to see you made it home. Long night.
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Whoo hoo!!!
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Nice Job! I'm sure that was a night you would soon not repeat
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nice! looks big sitting next to the Ford on my security cams haha
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whats even more comical, there is a part of the truck in all 4 cameras haha
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Nice Job! I'm sure that was a night you would soon not repeat
I’ve had much worse.
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Mike, you are a real life Roadkill hero and an inspiration to us all. Awesome job.
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ya i kinda started looking for big dumb trucks now haha
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Mike, you are a real life Roadkill hero and an inspiration to us all. Awesome job.
My wife has already started to save for a contract should he "inspire" me too much.
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I'm really itching to work on this thing. I think I'll have to stop and visit it tonight after work in case anyone wants The Grand Tour.
Going to go make a couple copies to send to SD.
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in the shop all nights this week..... jeeps bah
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Alternator out. New unit in stock at Regional for $470. Will check Pro Rebuilders and North Star tomorrow. Arie?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180314/5fa8d4b268b58852577cbc9669a108c4.jpg)
Paperwork in the mail to SD.
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this unit is impressive in size!
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how jealous is the seller, now knowing it was a relatively cheap fix?
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I had excellent experience with Pro Rebuilders. Highly recommended.
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These guys have always been good to us rebuilding odd things for a reasonable price.
Diesel & Auto Electric  
Address: 33 Payne Ave, North Tonawanda, NY 14120
Phone: (716) 692-8198
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Walked out of Pro Rebuilders with a suggested replacement unit. My SI30 is apparently not really worth rebuilding. Too old, too expensive of parts for what the end result is. Cummins gave me a $470 price on a replacement SI36. Pro Rebuilders suggested an SI21 I think it is, which I walked out with for $200.
Bobby of brolite fame has shared some Rockwell manuals with me that he was able to find. 60-65PSI is the regulated pressure for the trans so I've got first steps on that lined up, and about 15 pages of air system manual (it's 30 pages, but it's for a 13 speed. Half of it should apply to my 9) to go through troubleshooting steps on. I'll just need to find means to adapt a pressure gauge to whatever size the small lines are, hopefully there are not a dozen line sizes on the trans but the diagrams indicate there may be.
Bobby's guy says it's likely a top cover issue. That was rebuilt once before on this truck. I'm going to go through service records again and spend some time on it so I can reference this stuff.
Now please, weather, dry out! I have things to do.
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Was really excited to get the alt slapped in and see if my air leak is fixed and if my dad is right about those being the shifter lines and that causing low air and slow shift.
but fuck this wind and cold. 571 with a closed garage door is calling.
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Ran out to Phelps and back tonight to get some ramps. Breakover angle likely to be rough for a certain Ranger, we'll see about that, may test that this week if I have a chance.
Got my 4 camera set up mostly installed yesterday, reasonably impressed with this. Need to find switched power for it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J0RS8UM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Planning to run these around the top of the inside of the box for general area light, spooled one out and tested it, I'm impressed.
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Daylight-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration/dp/B00WQFP3AO/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YNZXS9D48C93KW5N0E8W
Received these today, was planning on them being outdoor work lights. Return slip already waiting to print, they are GARBAGE. Nice housings, roughly .5 watt brightness, not even close to 10 watt. 30-40 watt incandescent equivalent.
https://www.amazon.com/GLW-Waterproof-Outdoor-Halogen-Equivalent/dp/B008XZAQDU/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Need to replace my tractor control valve, a fitting was overtightened into it and it's cracked. That's my dash air leak. Found when running camera wires.
Remaining electrical issues* were repaired by running an extra ground to the cab. I was seeing 3.5v between chassis and cab frame with the parking lights on. Couldn't quickly find how the factory grounded it so I just ran another 2ga wire. I might hunt for that next time I'm not pressed for time, or just call it fine.
*I still have no 'bright' to the signal/marker on the passenger side. it still signals as long as I have my parking lights on though, since it cuts the park lamp for the bright side. Come to think, that sounds like a short from bright to ground somewhere in that run. Now that I think as I type, I'm sure the park +12 signal is there all the time. Hmm. Oh well, I have an LQ4 to deal with along with a few other things.
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Forgot to mention that the trans acted up again at Mark's.
Transmission pilot and pilot supply air line splices repaired, but the trans did its weird thing again today - once. I'm thinking it might be hitting reverse if I go too far left when I'm aiming for 1st, and then not pulling it back out. I'll try and replicate that - and if that's the case, throwing it in reverse and back out ought to fix it. Playing with ranges shouldn't matter. I played with ranges today after checking 1-2-3-4 and then it got better. Need to play a little more. I was on a very slight hill again too - I wonder if it's doing it more often than I know but fixes itself when the output doesn't roll and make it bind.
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ROCKWELL FF961 12,000# FRONT AXLE
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180319/4b94861a2a01701773e1156649d37d78.jpg)
Hrmph.
I guess I need to find some heavy things for the very tail. I will have about 13,400# worth of tire on that front axle, but that’s much less headroom than I was expecting with an empty box.
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When you build the RV inside it, put gray water, black water, and freshwater tanks in the very back. That'd be some ballast.
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but some really annoying sewer plumbing. at least the fresh tank could be put in the back there easy other than winterizing.
how full was the fuel tank when scaling also?
move the rear axles up and fix your turning radius problem too haha
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wow, that is really surprising, Didn't you say the truck had a 2nd fuel tank at one time?
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Rear axles are not moving. Are you kidding?
Second tank was removed before the box was mounted.
Tank is somewhere 2/3 to 1/2 full. Tanks can move back, I want smaller dia, higher mounted tanks anyway. Air tanks can move back too - mounts in common with fuel tanks. Means replacing a bunch of lines but that may not be bad. Either since those would be mostly or entirely original.
Rear mounted tanks would suck at busy truck stops though, can’t fuel behind someone.
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Just got off the phone with Rapid City, I should have plates and stickers end of this week or beginning of next - they will go out tomorrow. They'll be good through July due to SD expiration scheduled based on last name. I'm betting I will have to renew out there unless the reconstructed brand disappears, because it'll be about 4 weeks to get the title, based on 4ish months to get through a salvage inspection.
Process was completely painless to run through South Dakota. Weight slip, exterior photo, affidavit of camping equipment notarized and emailed in yesterday completed everything after having mailed in bill of sale and title and reg/title papers about a week ago. Just over $400 to register till june including my tax on purchase price.
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not bad.
i figured moving the axles would be right up the alley of this project haha
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Yeah that really seems minor at this point lol
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sometimes I wonder about you guys.
notes to self:
clutch pull fingers to throwout should be ~1/8" which gives 1.5-2" free play on pedal.
clutch brake should be 1/2" from engaging, which should engage with .75-1" of travel left to the firewall.
my clutch is way out of adjustment. was supposedly adjusted at 627k, that's just under 10,000 miles ago. lame. 622k is when it got the trans top cover swapped.
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new clutch, clutch brake, throwout bearing at 593,883
also 6 qts of 90wt trans oil. I thought my 13sp took like 2 gallons so that sounds like a full change. not a lot of miles, but it's 13 year old oil
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Just drove past the shop. This thing looks big/tall. You plan to bring it to big dogs?
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You should park it in the hood somewhere to get tagged!
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Might need a brush cage around the condo to move big dogs trees out of the way
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You should park it in the hood somewhere to get tagged!
That's a great idea
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180323/bc02fbc13a74d2b4e814b2dbf236481b.jpg)
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thats awesome. looks like something you made on your computer... :)
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Added a missing fuse for engine diagnostic port and got my idiot lights! No idea how they ever lit earlier - must have been part of ecu failing.
Cameras got switched power. Forgot to add pipe dope to one leaker on the new tractor valve before I closed up the dash.
Played with the transmission more and it appears the L/R rail will move with the 1/2 rail if that’s where the shifter comes from. If 1/2 are grabbed after being over in 3/4 it doesn’t happen. If the truck is rolling it doesn’t happen since the gears don’t mesh. At a standstill it will do it in high range.
I think I can get it in low gear with the shifter in neutral as a part of this, i tried to replicate that but couldn’t. I believe I now understand better what to [not] do until I pull the top cover and investigate what is broken, missing, out of place, or whatever.
Door catches installed yesterday.
Cracked mirror replaced
Titan got another check ride when i took it for a loop. He’s still SUPER nervous. He was much better about getting in this time but getting out was worse. He won’t think about using a ladder.
Remaining a-list items:
Windshield squirts have a line disconnected in front of driver footwell. Need to tilt cab to access.
Oil change.
Rotten oil fill neck
1 particularly sketchy coolant soft hose
New headlights
B-listers:
Shifter issues
Diff and trans oil changes
Mirror brackets AFU
Some 12v lights in the box
Now I’m hopefully going to go stab an LQ4 with a cam in my car!
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HF has these sweet 5$ LED lights that are battery with a light switch i just added two to the shed!
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HF has these sweet 5$ LED lights that are battery with a light switch i just added two to the shed!
These?
https://www.harborfreight.com/200-lumen-led-super-bright-flip-light-63922.html
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yes
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You ready for big dogs?
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we'll see. more worried about AOAA.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180329/06f3df5c1871711a259d10e38ca97780.jpg)
Didn’t get 2 headlights installed between meetings today.
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Boo super old connector
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I think I have some on the shelf at home from Eagle upgrades. Don’t recall for sure. Should be on the shelf anywhere to change out.
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Damn, it’s 9004/9007 suckers I have.
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looks like a jeep plug from YJ or XJ
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Both lights have issues. Not going back in in the rain since both lows are lit but driver light is missing one low element and high is out on passenger side. Bleh! Rain drive for salt rinsing.
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it is wet at the shop.
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Light issues fixed. I crossed ground vs high, I think, on the plug I replaced. No idea how I did that but it’s fixed until I swap bulbs (changed on bulb side because it was easier).
Steers being mounted and balanced tomorrow morning. Ballpark $150.
Will roll with the drives that are on it for this trip. They’re less sketchy and less risky.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/55b76d12b701a6f5d6233216c082daa5.jpg)
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Who else has a power outage right now? Looks like clay rd area is all down.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180406/5c7db0033286fdaba10e126f64674411.jpg)
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Heard it described as electricity in the air .a pole went down and knocked power out on jefferson from the hylan area to winton according to fb.
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chips power still out at his parents house
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Garbage truck came in for some drive tires (boy did they get their money's worth out of them), driver said he saw blue flames but said it was near the post office, which makes no sense.
First working stop lights on Jefferson from Clay were E Henrietta. Saw nothing looking towards Hylan.
New tires aren't static balanced since there was no power. Equalled instead. Ran it up to 65 indicated which is probably about 75 and they seemed OK? Need a better stretch of road than E Henrietta to Lehigh in heavy snow and traffic to really judge.
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Title in the mail today! Shows
Previous state/brand: pa reconstructed
Brand:
Will be interesting to see what NY says about that. And about a title in my name a week old. And stuff...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180409/487bc31a402f909ccd7a55e2fe8b4a32.jpg)
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No issues, no complaints.
Driveline vibe at 45-55 is annoying. Worth looking at an angle gauge someday.
6.5mpg per odometer. Assuming odo is close to speedo, actual mpg ballpark 7.2 running 70-72.
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You figured out and fixed the shifting issues?
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No. Drive to avoid.
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Fixing 6th in the Ram is next after this weekend. Then probably rear links in the buggy. Then maybe Joe trans.
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For future reference: cab has a leak on driver rear. Corner of the sheet I left on the bottom bunk was damp. Probably at cap/ cab joint but could be window.
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If I can get the dog to get out of it, pit stops will be quicker and smoother.
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Monson and back. Only issue is unloading the dog. Correct method of canine egress remains to be determined.
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Leash closed in the door...
My first Golden was like that...
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Pull on leash?
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He won’t let me pick him up to get him out. He only wants to jump all the way from the passenger seat. Won’t go through the footwell - too small - so we’re talking a ~7’ jump. Way too high. He’ll damage himself either suddenly or over time, no question.
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Collapsible/removable seat?
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Vehicle loading ramp position perpendicular to cab and onto seat?
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use the bed crane from gus...
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http://www.petfrenzy.com/pet-loader-original-5-step-pet-stairs-abs.html
Something like that. Attach it to the passenger side step when not in use so that it's accessible.
I also saw this but dog will probably still want to jump out: http://inventionhome.blogspot.com/2009/04/weekly-invention-by-inventionhomecom_09.html
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get rid of the dog? ;)
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Vehicle loading ramp position perpendicular to cab and onto seat?
I was thinking furniture dolly loading ramp in very similar arrangement to Matt's second link. It'll look hack but I was hoping I could make it so that it would fold up alongside the cab somehow for fast deployment and not suck to deal with.
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I need a couple of these. Haven't found any local lately, and I don't think I've found any cheap ever.
https://poconos.craigslist.org/for/d/26xaluminum-ramp/6548605521.html
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I just want to drive this around and outfit it. Tired of other things being annoying and this hasn’t blown up yet so it’s currently my favorite.
Timebomb: set.
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Head down to PA for me and joe can go back to his old stupmy grounds ::)
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Wheelchair ramp found cheaper than usual via FB Marketplace. Hopefully picking up tonight.
“It is currently dismantled and ready to go. It has 3 long ramp sections, 1 short section, 2 platforms with legs and feet, railings, hardware.â€
Asking a grand. There’s similar for sale in Webster now for $3k. I’ll see if I can beat her up at all but it’s more than a fair price. Especially already broken down.
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guess it made it to CL too. same pic, same post time.
https://rochester.craigslist.org/hsh/d/aluminum-wheel-chair-ramp/6583613628.html
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So...what is the plan for this?
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deck/patio off the side of the box; support for canine ingress/egress, ease of my ingress/egress as well.
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Looks like nobody else cares to race Rangers this weekend, so maybe a bit of work on that front gets accomplished.
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(https://images.craigslist.org/00e0e_a5R6zsXyvSS_1200x900.jpg)
Make sure they throw in a chicken too ;D
I see more ramp pieces on the wall of the house in the background.
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those were included in the count she gave me. but the chicken wasn't :)
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you never cease to amaze ;D
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Dog has pointed me to much additional expense.
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I still can't picture how to set this up on the rig in a quick and easy manner. These have to be heavy to setup every time for dog walks, etc.
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i may have contributed some bad ideas to this cause tonight....
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I refined your idea a bit and designed the hinge and figured out mount spacing. Pretty happy with it. Then I thought about interior space it takes up in a valuable position especially when slid back to clear the side entry door. In the way of ramps or lifts or whatever else.
Went back to my under-frame storage idea and I think it is seeming pretty solid and pretty easy to set up. It fails my initial test of one step setup with folding down the legs but I think it’s easier than a 90* fold up. After sketching for an hour I think I should cancel a few pieces of the amazon order I just placed.
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should have worked harder on design and tried to get steel today. see what I can get done without fresh materials, I guess. I think I'm going to be short on a few other items that are still on the way anyway.
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Need some stainless hardware and the cabside platform will be hung. Didn’t drill the cab yet but all else is done.
It’ll cover up a nice sport for Last Minute graphics on the cabside that won’t show on the road. And be really ugly otherwise. Meh. Need to figure out how it gets retained up. Top edge is too tall to reach but ignoring that, I’m thinking TJ hood latches May work well for all these things.
Folding steps will be here tomorrow or Thursday. Going to be able to pin those on in several places.
Made measurements so I can put real numbers on my sketch and make a steel order.
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Oh. Hits the power lines when on the near side of the driveway. Ok on the far side in front of the trailer. Where the welder won’t quite reach.
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Ordered a bunch of little stainless hardware today. Will be here Friday. No one-stop in-stock for all I needed after checking Fastenal and Lowes so I'll wait for shipping instead of wasting time running around. #modernlife
see if I can get a fold up shelf off the door built tonight along with mowing and maybe washing cars and bleeding clutch and plugging trans. Things I shoulda done Sunday instead of wasting a day...
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Mayer’s has quite the selection of stainless everything..
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Ready for flooring on the door ramp from the cab. All designed, hinges cut. Ready for fasteners to arrive. Need to make up a support cable and a bracket for it.
I think I want to use that diamond plate aluminum from the kitchen hauler if it’s still available. 20-22†span 38†wide should be good I think I think.
Collapsible stairs arrive tomorrow, fasteners Friday. Still need latches to secure things for transport.
I don’t have a weekend, but could still wrap up with time to spare for rolling w _IF_ I can figure out legs for the big deck. I have 2 load locks for interim legs on the front part, so at least I’ll have the front part done.
So much claptrap. Hope it seems good when it’s done.
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i seem to be way more productive now working 7-3:30 and getting to bed earlier.
i think i do have one of the piece of al diamond plate left should be 5x5ish with a 1' fold additional on it.
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that's the one I'm thinking of.
I need to get on an earlier schedule. I'm bad.
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interested in moving two "garage size" units from one storage fac to another, local 7 miles apart for ~500$ with this unit? i can send info. i asked for pictures of volume. he thought it would take one trip with stake sides on my truck so i questioned the size and volume of 2 units and asked for pictures....
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old lady stuff in boxes should be nothing heavy ect
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should use your trailer. moving stuff into a dock height truck is for the birds!
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i gave up using my back for $$ years ago. takes away from play time too much
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i gave up using my back for $$ years ago. takes away from play time too much
::)
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These are really really nice. Whipping up brackets for these is one of the last small items remaining.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180518/bfda90ab7f88871588f13eda07985342.jpg)
Money exchanged for quality.
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serious progress. canine egress/ingress achieved.
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Got the easiest, biggest part of the deck done last night before early bed. Tracks are cut from the channel, and steel is no longer sticking out from under the door of my stupidfucking 16’ deep garage.
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https://rochester.craigslist.org/tls/d/8-foot-side-boxes/6585908247.html
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Stage 1 done
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180523/7a4c3198c954c420753371935df8a5c0.jpg)
Tracks finalized for stage 2: big deck. Rollers bolted to the decks. First track welded and tested. Need to make up the clamps to hold them to the frame, and some keepers at the top. Then braces and shit which would be easier to do on the truck if the welder reached but it will force me to keep it modular and removable which might be good. Though I’m not sure if there would ever be reason to remove and reinstall. Maybe driveshaft work.
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Rearmost track needs a notch. I wasn’t expecting that. Suspension is down, so that shaft will probably move 4†through total travel there assuming it has 8†of total travel. Hopefully no issues to where the bottom rail is. That’s where I plan to knock it to.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180525/281041fcc9a847de22bae1ed21acb680.jpg)
Need to make rail tops for the rollers to sit in when extended, and some rails to sit on when retracted.
Got leg material today, need a few fasteners and pins.
I’ll be driving this weekend, so it’ll be tight to get wrapped up completely before Rolling W.
Definitely need a step between party deck and cabside platform.
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Need to clock an air fitting too, or maybe reroute a bit. Couldn’t knock it loose without a cheater so i didn’t push it. Need to pull the line and give it a little heat. Rather not break it off seized in the tank. Also not doing that till I move the truck if I’m smart. Don’t want my trailer blocked in.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180525/5533f72fa62c0a3afa0ccb649e9163d0.jpg)
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Tracks are a little (1/8-3-16) out of alignment underneath. Pretty annoying to try and true them up. U bolts prevent using 48†tee square on 3 out of 4 of them. Probably have to pull the tracks again anyway, to put supports on for the retracted position and probably better to paint when removed too. Can’t get under the power line to get close to the house by a good 4†in height. Or maybe do at M4 next week.
Going to run for a compression fitting to finish moving that air line and make truck mobile again, that’s prob it for the weekend.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180525/7011a5669a60145233f6a2c02b41feaf.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180525/a8e05eb69aab3bc7f419542a1c9fbcc4.jpg)
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Bottom decks are put away. Jammed for now. Need to loosen the rear track and probably tweak one of the fronts.
Just remembered I didn’t tighten my jam nuts either. Guess I should do that. Be bad to lose one after all that work and expense.
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Threw up a shelf on the front wall and cleared the floor. Tolerable now.
Not organized, but at least cleanish.
Hung 8’ long ramp on back door. All ramp shit is now at least stored, if not yet 100% functional.
Threw some retainer bolts in the big ramps that catch an existing channel. No more strapping.
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Ac hooked up for road duty. Gen and Ac just strapped down, not permanent mount. Interior trim just removed, not trimmed and reinstalled.
Found radiator leaking. minor... for now. Run it?
Called Regional. OE part NLA and out of system stock nationwide. Their typical aftermarket supplier does not list.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180629/566034c7359da307645a0a13d6644257.jpg)
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http://www.bjrradiator.com they are in the city and I'm sure they can get a radiator for you.
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empire radiator downtown is also very good
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Radiator is fine (for who the hell knows how long - whatever is least convenient)
Need to chase voltage drop issue that forced a pop start to leave Rausch today. Starter no workie. Brings dash and cab voltage to 6ish and keeps it there for a bit. Acting like a high resistance circuit going open under load. If not for the dash voltage drop everything points to a bad starter. No drop found from batteries to starter yet shows 1.5v across the starter while trying to crank. Hmmm
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Also, Ac dries out the cab but is nowhere near enough to keep up with full sun and 95F.
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the pop start
https://www.facebook.com/CoraTMasters/videos/1982781005074611
hideously low res if you're not logged in, but viewable by anyone.
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I saw that awesomeness perfectly clear!!
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Fixed! Voltage drop and poor connection all the way.
When I went to take off the main ground just now to pull the starter, it didn’t feel tight. Put a wrench on all 8 battery connections and it fired right up. Most of them took an eighth of a turn to snug up. They’re dielectric greased and have no lockwashers...
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Only had to tighten up loose bolts in new steering parts on the buggy and put side tins on, so why not ignore that completely and build actual mounts for Ac unit and generator?
Why not indeed.
60% done.
New insulated ducts for Ac installed.
Project was motivated by how incredibly hot it was between the cab and box when I climbed in there to swap out my ducts for the insulated units.
Ac will be behind the fuel tank, generator about 18†behind that. I think I’m doing that I’ve decided water tanks will have to go inboard of the frame above/next to the driveshaft.
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Mounted.
Generator needs a flap and to be raised almost a foot.
Cooling better while under way (on an already cool night...). I’ll see how it keeps up tomorrow.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180714/29e9e5ec8b593d46602b05be5fc2d183.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180714/3fed352056221b6b205fa191ad5e081c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180714/df76304f450cdc1661f8bdf87aabf5df.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180714/193878366b341a1fadeffcb4c9e8524d.jpg)
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Do you run the generator and then like a house stand up AC unit while you’re driving down the road?
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That white box is the Ac/heat unit.
4†ducts for intake and outlet are in the back sleeper wall.
I want to try smike’s inventor and see if the truck alternator will keep up with the load so I can not run the generator so much.
May have killed it somehow. Startup smoke was notably worse last time I fueled it yesterday. It ran dry (saw dry tank bottom, nothing shut it down first), fueled it this morning, and it wouldn’t start.
Took Titan for a walk before leaving and came back to a non-running truck. Dies after 30-60 Sec repeatably. No red light, but oil|water light doesn’t stop blinking when oil pressure comes up. Code set for low coolant. Confused what the computer is doing but coolant was low and no issues after filling.
Expansion tank is buried way into the engine tunnel. 1-2†clearance from rad cap to floor. So have to tilt the cab. A fitting failed while raising. It would keep going up but I heard the cab latches set. After I lowered, the cab latches wouldn’t extend. Cab is held down with a 2†ratchet strap right now.
It started raining as I finished walking Titan. Bit more than half an hour of work in the rain to add water and strap the cab down.
Ripped the exhaust rain cap flapper off its hinge on overhanging trees, probably on Lower Road leaving the track. But could have been on any of about 40 miles of shit I didn’t belong on. Detours suck. Closed roads without posted detours suck more. Had 2 of one and one of the second.
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Is this thread fucked in any other Tapatalk users’ phones? Harry’s question follows a post from May...
Interaxle lock was enough but I could use diff locks too.
Didn’t bend the cradle on second contact.
And pics don’t want to upload. Ttalk error. Wonder if related.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/f371d677404dde1f9b5b6da67fe05c0f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180715/b5c89d4c26b2ee707a6a221a5edbe200.jpg)
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I get double posts out of order. Fine when viewing on laptop.
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Yeah doubling of last or second to last post weirdness has been ongoing for me for a month or so. I’ve not reported the bug. Shame on me, take a corner off my tech nerd chit.
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whats your storage plan on this thing ::)
Would like to do some tree trimming to get it pulled nose in next to Matt's trailer.... i know im going to get a call soon about it only a matter of time especially with the spray pant on the sides of it.....
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Copy that...
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Ordered scrapers and adhesive remover yesterday...
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Aircraft stripper, a pressure washer and an empty parking lot..
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I really don’t want to repaint it.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180731/3ca5abfaae3942111226b0e4cee93e6e.png)
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🤣 🤣 🤣
Generator spark plug was complete garbage. Cleaned off the soot. It caught _once_ immediately after that but didn’t actually fire and run. Cranked a bunch. Nada. Has solid spark. Air filter not a crime scene; cranking without filter doesn’t result in fire either.
Gonna go back. Fuel tank draining now (was plumb full since the last thing it did was shut down from running out of fuel) I do really like that it has a carb bowl fuel drain.
I guess I didn’t pull carb bowl to look for crap and it could be lacking fuel but exhaust smells fuely. Didn’t pull plug again after cranking.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180731/4ec1c8c8a5907751d27089b4db4c66bc.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180731/c86b0d3206624b6810520be94f70cd40.jpg)
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My uncle ran his dry twice so far and it started right up and ran after refueling.
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I think I have about 85-90 hours on it. Probably 6th time running it dry. I think I only fueled once or maybe twice when not run to dead empty.
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I’m kinda sure what happened there. Just throw a new spark plug in it and chances are it’ll fire right up. Next time, shut off the fuel valve whenever you’re moving and not running it. Otherwise fuel will somehow find its way into where it’s not supposed to go from bouncing down the road I had this happened to me with my predator 212cc powered mini bikes
One other problem I had with my predator 212cc’s gas tank vent hose allow gas to flow into carb when the tank is really full and either titled or bouncing around. Disconnect it if your generator have that.
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my HF sits on my trailer floor. im sure the life it sees is not nice. no issues. just clean the air filter about every 5 tanks because its a super fine sponge thats clogged even if it doesn't look like it.
10 times better than my honda still.
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Generator shutoff switch is a fuel shutoff. I’d suspected this, but got to verify tonight. There’s a chance it was open and not running while heading down the road once, but failure to start occurred after 2 tanks through while sitting still at line mountain. Plug cleaned up extremely well with non-knotted wire wheel on bench grinder, you think replacement may still be warranted? It gaps at .025â€
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weird.
I have absolutely no luck with cleaning up fouled spark plugs. I cleaned it and looks good but it’s done for... New plug in and fire right up. Usually after a good wipe out and sitting on its side is enough to ruin spark plugs for some reason. I stock spare plugs for just this reason. Haha
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I [kinda] want to do the right thing, but I just renewed on the phone in 2:58, and will have tabs in my mailbox probably Friday or Saturday. $314. So probably a bit more than NY. I'll find out next year...
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I’m fired. Pulled the plug and saw no spark on the one that was actually in it. Swapped plug and generator runs! Runs like crap on plug specd for a 95 ram v10, but runs. Up next: proper plug
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weld a ball and get a tow dolie for the bro with some skinnies on the rear?? haha
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You have any steel in stock that would be worthy of a hitch build for that? I don't think I have much, big channel is I think what I'd choose.
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probably not. id rather see some effort go into making a goose ball hitch appear haha
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I’m thinking something very adjustable-height. Could tow mine with almost no more setback than any tag trailer (have to think about transitioning inclines though i guess. Some tube height to clear. Rails to pin the ball mount to at various heights, like Corik’s hauler.
Be harder to think about any of the enclosed trailers but maybe in combination with the extendable deck ideas. Your ball height is damn near dock height isn’t it?
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Need a second set of eyes/hands to find hydraulic leak. I can hear it when pumping but can’t see it. Guess I coulda added fluid and found it by puddle.
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Got new plugs too. Probably needs a little run time to clean itself out, idles great but is rough with echo throttle off.
Probably not happy running bouncing down the road would be my guess.
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Wouldn’t run right with load. Heard whistling.
Here’s the spark arrestor parts.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180811/d9e2f745b7bce44d8bc6eaf0bcac7a23.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180811/9ead237fca1f18092504972d99ad7b66.jpg)
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It idled a lot?
It ran pig rich.
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I wonder if the carb is a little out of adjustment, or if running while banging down the road splashes some fuel and it runs rich?
I've noticed a big puff of black smoke on startup after I run it dry, increasing with time.
Didn't have a chance to see if that symptom remains since I didn't go through a tank this weekend.
Cab definitely needs more insulation, 5kbtu of cooling can't keep up - either that or the unit isn't making rated cooling. I had a window unit die at home last week as well. Was short cycling a bit and now compressor will run but it doesn't cool whatsoever. It didn't feel like this unit was really pumping cool air today like I remember when it was new. No pressure ports on these things so I feel pretty blind.
Did a bunch of decal work when I got back to M4 World Headquarters this afternoon. This side has ballpark 5 man-hours into it - thanks to Smike's help for the entirety of 'moving and storage' - he had a great touch to it while I was struggling in the shade on the other side. I didn't get quite as far over there after he left, but most of the phone number and half of Pittsburgh is gone. Working in hot sun and adding a little bit of heat works pretty well.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180813/4b9b9a9bb247baa6091d283a59d95d14.jpg)
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Power wash decals off. Seriously.
Paint your cab’s roof white. It helped tremendously on my XJ.
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Take a 10mm wrench and pull the carb bowl to check the float (and to clean the bowl if needed)
Sound like the float sticks or needle isn’t sealing.
Only way to tune them is to either drill jets or swap jets but doubtful that’s the problem since they’re usually tuned lean from factory.
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any power washer setting that would remove the decals would remove the paint, at least at the seams and rivets. I don't want to repaint, certainly not right away.
generator carb might be sloshing a bunch and isn't really designed to run when in motion?
Given the shape of the cab and truck and roof, wall exposure is probably more of a thing than the color of just the roof. Better interior insulation is probably more of a gain than exterior color but I'm not 100% certain on the physics of that. I can tell you though that I don't have much more insulation than a factory Jeep roof. 1" or less of open cell foam, then typical interior panel construction.
I don't want a silver/white truck or truck cab. I have very little roof compared to wall. Practically speaking from a cooling perspective I should just paint the whole damn thing or at least the top half light grey/silver but I really don't want to. Again, avoiding paint for now.
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There’s no insulation or headliner in my XJ, I removed all of them, just sheet metal. I couldn’t even touch the roof (interior side) when it was black. Now I can lay on top if I wanted to.
A/C will be the easiest fix, anyhow. Your A/C unit recirc the air or just pumps cooled air into the cab? Maybe a roof vent will help to allow hot air to escape?
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It recirculates.
When it’s not keeping up, opening the high windows helps a lot.
Roof vent scares from both leak and durability perspective. Will be exposed on leading side,
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More ceiling insulation is needed, for certain.
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I'd bet on the carb flooding over while bouncing down the road. But also check the oil level.
My EU2000i started running shitty a few hours after break in. little huff of smoke now and then transitioning from Eco throttle to load too. It actually quit on me once as well. Lowered the oil level a tad and all was good. When the rings broke in, the elevated oil level started making it's way into the cylinder.
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good call - oil was high. the rich running and carb slosh may be washing the rings and adding oil as well.
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Sweat equity showed significant promise for future activities.
Just gonna paste what I already wrote up for Pirate.
Thanks again for all the help and for the great idea, Mike!
Significant progress today in vetting future plans for multi rig hauling.
Also decided on some frame plans for putting a hitch on this thing. Gonna need 10’ of 10†c channel frame, going to frame double from the existing 5th wheel plate to the tail. I don’t trust the rear frame extension done when the truck was stretched. Plenty of room to double frame on the outside with flanges out with good steel and mount the hitch to that.
If I were going for a converter dolly with no tongue weight I’d run as is and monitor for cracks but I’m probably going to be prepared to run on her on the long side and be able to tow my lowboy goose, or any normal tag trailer including my buddy’s 18k non-stacker that’s usually behind his Renegade. Just for usefulness’ sake. Probably but that on the back burner, and focus on 2 inside for now followed by a bit more build out of facilities.
This is bumper to bumper, with 1 tire width against the front wall. Not gonna cut it to close the doors even without a tire up there.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/af75c9cbe0ad18831a1eaa1089932d57.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/83bf65980a52dfe4eede7352b4c36cae.jpg)
Pulled a bunch of the tires out and made room to lift the back of the brolite. Overlap the rigs a bit and there’s plenty of room for both. With a better and more stable lifting system this may work for 2 u4 cars, and hopefully will leave room for a bathroom up front. The brolite is only 70†wide so I’ve got lots of room next to it in a 99.5†wide box. Not the case with another foolsize car in there but I’ve got hope for many good things after this smallest of the stacking.
Horrible PITA to tie down as it is. Not long term!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/a006810096e2cadceb377d9364688689.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/54b517f6c3831fae21c2dc349e584bb9.jpg)
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How much height clearance do you have? Is it a ridiculous idea to have stout toolboxes and drive on top of them in the front with the fullsize, and the brolite's nose can tuck under the rig in the back?
side door would pose an issue though. Maybe put a removable channel on that side and toolboxes on the left side.
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This is where I got the idea from:
(https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17630106_10156032769229972_5332368731496431772_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=a3f966e1907ac3afc84c36cba844de11&oe=5BED1874)
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As you can see there side door isn’t an issue.
Static bench height may work. I don’t have the height available that the step decks do. 9’3†to the roof.
Toter tires could help but must also have space for 4x40†if that’s on the table too.
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big car needs to go in the back also for axle loading help id assume also. ranger up front on work benches / LQ counters / shower / toilet might not be a bad idea. big car pulls in the back in same place weather there is a ranger up front or not. that sounds like best idea so far.
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What’s the purpose to put both into the box? Storage?
A 18’ car trailer seem much easier than cramming both in there? Put ramps between trailer & box to drive the buggy into it. No need to unhook to load/unload.
Or, What about build a ramp to drive the buggy’s front end up & over rear of brolite? There seem to be enough head room
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plan has always been to fit in two. extra trailer axles also sucks for tolls.
i dont think mike will ever own a little 18' car trailer lol. we have discussed plans for a goose ball behind the box though.
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storage is secondary, but I'm almost as excited at the prospect of a clear garage as I am for 2 in the box for transport.
goose ball likely an exception, but good for flexibility. I don't know how Johnny Law wold take to my roughly 85' combination length with my goose. And if I think I want my CDL now I'd be sweating bullets without with that for sure!
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I'm really disappointed that building a bump out bubble in the lower 1/2 of the rear doors hasn't been discussed yet. It would make opening 180* a problem, but that plus your stack idea would afford you a luxury bathroom up front.
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read that 3 times and cant picture it.
slap a 1200$ ebay 7K 2 post lift in it, have your self a portable garage to boot!
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I believe he mean to customize doors to close over the overhang.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180827/83bf65980a52dfe4eede7352b4c36cae.jpg)
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o, thats the most terrible idea i have encountered lol
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Standard issue on the curtainside enclosed car haulers I was originally eyeing.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/formerwmdriver/5103547792
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o, thats the most terrible idea i have encountered lol
I didn't say I would do it. I said I was surprised it hadn't been discussed. I've seen way worse on here. lol
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https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/d/international/6668201521.html
!!
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https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/d/international/6668201521.html
Buy it, I dare ya!
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I saw this sweet rig the other day.
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Not looking good to fix cab lift before rolling w. Hopefully it’s fine!
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~8.5mpg on 219 from the Rex to rolling w and back. Other numbers to come. Finally got a odometer correction, it’s about the same as the speedometer, unsurprisingly.
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these are the lights i got
https://www.amazon.com/Ceiling-Interior-Lighting-Trailer-Camper/dp/B0751XL8DV/ref=pd_cart_crc_sbs_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0751XL8DV&pd_rd_r=R0TJ3X4PWNTKGHDAWAP4&pd_rd_w=l6D6V&pd_rd_wg=XF66n&pf_rd_i=cart-page-widgets&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=af03a116-38f5-4601-bb8a-a747cdd24cbf&pf_rd_r=R0TJ3X4PWNTKGHDAWAP4&pf_rd_s=cart-page-widgets&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=R0TJ3X4PWNTKGHDAWAP4
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surprised I didn't note oil change in this thread or on receipts.
just put numbers in. best tank 8.6, worst 7.6 across almost 4000 miles/500 gallons
7.84mpg since the first time I topped it off in April.
I would usually get I think 10.5-11 towing the enclosed with my Ram. Ram lifetime economy at 12.34 through March '18
Between fuel, mods to date, and purchase price, I'm almost surprised at how fast things add up.
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https://buffalo.craigslist.org/hvo/d/2000-freightliner-century/6694677604.html
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Down to STUMP on passenger side before the rain.
Now I’m gonna remount a brolite tire and poke a cab hydraulics tomorrow before I leave.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180921/edf936ce488a7b0f1c12a84c9715950d.jpg)
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What's your method for removing decals?
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some heat & peel, the yellow and black come off well that way. The white is really brittle. Today on the white was mostly spray with adhesive remover and scrape with razor. I dropped the razor and broke it, and the fresh blade is now all about carving into the paint. need to dull the new blade on some steel or something.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180922/7ef842b47a083877dd1217cdad5ac75f.jpg)
Line from the ram to the latches rubbed through at the hinge.
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PB blaster takes spray paint off if that helps
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Had to change a fuel filter in this on my way home last night, made it to the Petro at exit 41 after listing speed and power for the previous 15 or so miles.
Almost had to spend the night there but the second service tech knew how to do better interchange lookup and found a part with 23 in stock. I bought 3.
Then I had some electrical smoke just past 332. Was the cobbled hvac fan. Didn’t pull the dash to investigate. Fan didn’t previously do much anyway so not much loss in function. Have run the fan for hours previously so precipitating change unknown. Obviously not fused when rewired. Maybe motor just failed.
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left you a box of my old trailer interior lights on your RAM. toss them if you dont want them.
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I noticed it when I got home. it stayed put. Thanks, I think those are probably good spare bulbs for existing interior lights if nothing else
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I think I’m settled that rad will come out after returning from rolling W race on oct20th. Hopefully enough time to make shipshape for aoaa trip first week of nov.
Please hope for good weather.
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If you want to learn how my injectors work, watch this starting at about 5:10. A single valve controls both metering and start of the injection event off a fixed cam profile with a fixed 150psi fuel supply.
That design just has to be German at its roots. Wow.
https://youtu.be/V_PdkoXdmjY
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Advanced maintenance under way
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181106/51b422cc2d8fb8ae945ebc787c6ba9d8.jpg)
Thanks for the assist tipping out and setting down. smike, you showed up just in time.
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3 more broken bolts. All threading into intercooler.
Hopefully won’t be too bad to take care of.
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Sweet, even have a line of storms coming in to dilute the coolant!
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dropped at BJR. Brad will give me a call tomorrow after they take a look at it.
SWAG at 700 +/- if tanks and frame all look good, and they do seem to at a glance.
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core estimate at $900 out the door. bah. prob end of week to have it built by their supplier and put together.
They'll tear it apart tomorrow, I'll take care of any frame issues if any of the corrosion around the bottom is true rot. He was pretty excited to hear that instead of having to wait on shipping that around, which strikes me a good people to work with. I guess they don't do fab work in-house which I found a little surprising.
I forgot to grab the hard pipes from the truck. I should block off the air and water connections anyway, I'll have to swing down to the shop tonight to do that and I'll grab the hard pipes. Hopefully all the crusties on those are unimportant. The rubber hoses I took apart were all in great shape.
I think if I'm a smart man, I'll pull the HVAC cores and condensor and have those all checked over and cleaned up, and see about getting lines made and blah blah blah ready for AC and having good heat on the water side of things even if the air side of things still needs work. Coordinated attack and proper order of operations!
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heater box - unedited and rotated wrong. maybe I'll redo.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-a-jblreZNw
cores out. Both available new from Int, but at $600 each.
Good thing I pulled things, some rot on the heater side from road spray underneath. Hopefully I get get full functionation out of it with some new resistors and checking wiring to get all fans working. Should be plenty of BTUs available in there if the coolant does hit 150-170.
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Heater core $100 on rockauto
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3/4 broken bolts extracted from intercooler. Whole stack is torn down and ready to drop at rad shop for check/clean. See how rich they think I am and how salable they think my parts are.
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Radiator just assembled and tested. Drying out of the test tank for paint now.
Great contact from Brad at BJR. Didn’t get up early enough to drop/talk about other parts before eye checkup. So I’ll be over there in a bit once the doc peers into my soul...
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BJR will be pressure testing and cleaning my condenser and charge cooler, and should be able to repair the crunchy heater core inlet/outlets. Couldn't do anything with the evap core.
Got to see the rad pre-paint. That is a pretty piece of golden copper!
I found a few other parts listings to chase, hopefully I can get away with something other than $600 OE. we'll see...
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clean bill of health on everything and paint is drying 👍🏼 👍🏼
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Everything is in the service body. Assemble when weather dries out. Not sure if I’ll try to put it in the truck right away or not. Probably will, not sure how long I’ll be waiting for AC parts and heater box access isn’t impacted by cooler stack presence.
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Buncha progress
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Cooling system all put back together. Didn’t run all the way up to temp but did get 5-10 minutes on it. No issues it seemed.
Would be nice if it wasn’t $700 to get a new evaporator since it would be nice to just do all the heater box stuff and be DONE there. I wonder if I can fix it with a compression fitting, or solder on a new fitting for the gas return line.
Most everything else is available from idle air or HMC Truck.
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trouts has a couple big trucks, there was one flat nose cabover there.
they have a sweet metal rack in the steel pile i am def going back with a trailer to get.
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Gonna do some wiring and put the seat back on tomorrow in the rain. Home no issues. All seems good. Drives all at 75psi, even. Think I may have set them at 90-95. Steers lost nothing through the winter. 107 and 110. Set them at something 105-115.
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Attempted dash fire DID have a fuse. Must have been one of those old recalled HF units. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190426/ca440bb9b151edd807f0052cdfbc968e.jpg)
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tire tools should all arrive today. got a TPMS too.
HVAC was good for the drive around town last week. Rolling W this weekend.
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TPMS, tire soap and blast tank here. No valve cores or tools yet.
Probably won’t get wheels till next weekend. Seems ok.
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At least half of the tires were patched or damaged. This was the sketchiest. Between the dials and unseeable.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190511/edb6d0218d6a4ddd9914a62ea6cd0eb6.jpg)
Had to get and use a portapower for 3 of the 4 sets to separate, and the get 2/4 inners off.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190511/ce9db66ca8962b0bad2f27ff738a2aec.jpg)
Impressed with the Ken Tool Blue Serpant knockoff. 1/6 the price and at least half as nice if not better.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190511/d8eb5d9a009533f10c779d76fd9f3aa6.jpg)
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Oh - Erik’s landlord’s wheels are stud pilot, I’m hub pilot. So no Alcoa goodness.
Tires out of the way. At least the new ones. Now the old ones are in the way until I dump them at the Batavia track :)
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Worst part by far was not having an adequate impact. Need to get some 1/2†air plumbed and a 3/4 or inch gun if I’m ever doing this again.
This guy works but I’m really feeling it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190511/d27ebcf41f8b2a9c9c8458bb493d0cdc.jpg)
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1†impact gun with long anvil from HF ;)
https://m.harborfreight.com/1-in-aluminum-air-impact-wrench-61616.html
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I probably like the cheaper one at near half the price.
2000 ft-lb vs 2500 seems ok.
Still need to improve air flow capability for that big boy.
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I shoulda grabbed one today for 25% instead of the usual 20% off.
Need to decide how to maintain air line diameter to run one well. I’m thinking dedicate to only run off the truck, maybe off the trailer supply gladhand, or maybe off another secondary tank tap wo a bigger fitting.
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I was also going to
Mention that after DIYing 8 drives immediately before leaving, the TPMS I got was such a huge piece of mind that it more than paid for itself in piece of mind, and I plan to run it on the ram and trailer for long trips too. Not worth an extra $400 for a second setup, I don’t think, but totally worth the labor of swapping 10 valve stem caps.
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Link to said TPMS?
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Not worth an extra $400 for a second setup, I don’t think, but totally worth the labor of swapping 10 valve stem caps.
You'll kick yourself for saying that while doing the deed in the dead of winter in your driveway
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For 10 valvestem caps? Not likely.
More likely if I’m doing it a dozen times per year or if I have an issue sometime when I didn’t bother to swap.
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Link to said TPMS?
BELLACORP Tire Pressure... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZAIKLMY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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hope its a system that is better than all the RV guys at work complain about- nothing but false reads and problems with those things.
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Good for 8 driving hours so far.
Interface is shit, but instructions are good.
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For 10 valvestem caps? Not likely.
More likely if I’m doing it a dozen times per year or if I have an issue sometime when I didn’t bother to swap.
didn't realize they were caps.
When you said TPMS, I thought it meant you had to break bead, replace valve with TPMS inside the tire, seat bead, etc...
So, I take back what I said. That's easy.
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Worst part by far was not having an adequate impact. Need to get some 1/2†air plumbed and a 3/4 or inch gun if I’m ever doing this again.
This guy works but I’m really feeling it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190511/d27ebcf41f8b2a9c9c8458bb493d0cdc.jpg
Attached photo is coming soon! 1,800ft/lbs. Reported to be out by June.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2867-20
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wrong color, and probably a little more than ~$180
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Bunk flipped today after the rolling w trip with Sarah. She’s small, but that bunk was way, way, way smaller. Way.
First major interior mod. And clears the way for eventual rear pass through.
Pulled and resealed bunk windows. Need to patch old poorly repaired damage on the cab roof too, as I’d suspected. It was one of three leaks I found. Windows of course were the other two.
Will need to do some interior trim work to replace damaged cardboard backing from those leaks.
Need to do permanent wiring, but finally put up a couple 12†led lights too. Huge improvement over one reading lamp.
Current cab roof insulation is 3/4†open cell foam. How much improvement would some foil back something add, you think?
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/e9c834b744f50208be16efb434ac4eb2.jpg)
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how many air fresheners do you have in that thing
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Went from one to zero with the hanger i pulled out, and it was older than dirt. International must have some secret sauce - it _should_ smell. But it doesn’t.
I guess it dries quickly. No mold found.
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I just really lol'd, twice!
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It's been a long time since I've done fiberglass work. hopefully whatever they put over the top of that hole doesn't get too much in the way of fixing it a bit better. I think it may be a trailer roof patch painted over. It's paper thin whatever it is.
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how many air fresheners do you have in that thing
That made me laugh for real.
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Am I missing something? Maybe a pic of a pile of air fresheners? Forgive my slow wit...
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I think they think it stinks? I really don't get it either ¯_(ツ)_/¯
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good refresher on typical 'glass repair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsoKAHU5xUw
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old carpet, old foam, leaks, used to be a hole in roof, etc usually equates to a very stinky moldy interior.
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Thank you Matt. I thought that might be the logic but wasn't sure.
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Fuck, I suck at fiberglass. Not that this is easy. I should have figured out how to make a mold. And it still would have sucked.
Glad I found that Depot has materials at 30% the price
Of west marine. That’s for sure. I’m at 50% waste or so
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try your best, just at least stop the water leak. it's not like anyone will see it up there lol
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ceran wrap and acetone are your friend when booty fabing glass
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/cc773e735d882e2f37fe921ba2db3a74.jpg)
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Change yo papah
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/28adecadc11924746bb48b02e207ebc9.jpg)
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While I had the materials out I did the box roof damage too. Old glass was all delaminates from the old roof, and tar over it was dried out and separating.
Don’t know how well this will stick but if it doesn’t I’ll just run fresh roof tar over it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/ff339ed3ed09fdfeb72654a2e068daa7.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/45ba4da6b596aa9d4f59381ac446fbe8.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190605/cc773e735d882e2f37fe921ba2db3a74.jpg)
For some reason this one gave me a headache, but at the same time look like good time to install a sunroof to 'fix' it.
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Starter failed after airing up tires yesterday. Wouldn’t start this morning to air up again.
Got it going after heat 2 with a jumper wire on the solenoid and a truck mechanic tapping on the motor. It would drive the bendix in but not spin.
Same failure mode after parking at home.
Starter is out, that was about an hour job or a bit more. Getting it back in will be super fun. It’s a force fit between block and frame rail. Size of a 2L pop bottle plus add a giant nose cone, and probably weighs 60-70#.
Unless Arie needs a challenge I’ll head to that place I got my alternator tomorrow, but they have one on the shelf.
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Oh, and found this when I got home. No damage just a mess. Probably 7500 miles so far with it as it was and today apparently that tie down wasn’t enough. I did use the N2 this morning so I must have not gotten it back to its previous state of perfection.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/6335464ee5e53a093a828768f8e08863.jpg)
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i have experienced the joy of trailer tool boxes on their side. no fun sorry.
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It’s embarrassingly empty. Most things stay on the cart since I don’t have 3 full tool sets yet for home truck and buggy. Gradually working on that.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/4d858f4380a65cb4d3c89096c8ba8a94.jpg)
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looks a lot like my forklift starter!
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passed bench tests at Pro Rebuilders. they put a new solenoid on for me. Very strange.
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I had one that would pass a bench test but when put under a load in the truck it would just click. Hope you don't get that monster back in there and it still is messed up
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Me too. Just home to do it. Will be a bastard to get up and in for certain.
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Under an hour to install. Now to test!
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All good!
Got it in through the top. Was just able to snake through fuel lines and wires. 85x easier than from the bottom would have been.
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Notes for remote Predator 3500 generator control:
others report success wiring an auto door lock actuator or similar to pull-actuate the choke while cranking. wire in paralell with starter switch.
can wire a separate kill switch in paralell with or in place of the control knob kill switch.
there is no fuel pump. must use gravity feed or a low pressure pump, and must seal off an internal tank vent that runs through a charcoal canister.
given my application, I'd want an electronic fuel shutoff between tank and carb to keep from sloshing through the carb while not running.
suggestion to self is an on-off switch for the fuel solenoid, and a momentary on-off-on switch for crank/kill. access to jump or manually actuate the fuel solenoid for a dead battery start.
Should be super simple, and probably a 5 wire trailer pigtail (+, -, kill, start, fuel) plus a fuel line from a boat tank in the box would do very nicely.
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You’re just dreaming or that’s the plan?
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will be done eventually. getting out to start/stop is for the birds. I do miss extended run I had with my Honda 2k, too. Could fire it on Friday night and shut it down on Sunday when I left with a 6 gallon can.
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My thinking is KISS
Auto choke via a wing to un-choke from air blown off the flywheel. Boat tank lower than carburetor to prevent siphoning and crankcase or vacuum operated lift fuel pump. Tune the carb while you’re at it, to start easier & run better. Install a 3 way valve, boat tank as the main tank, built in tank double as reserve and off.
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adding a pump, and dealing with a fly switch that isn't affected by doing 75 down the road don't sound simpler to me at all ¯_(ツ)_/¯
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Need to finger our drive over counters. Want some materials input.
Going to throw in quick now and plan to adjust them later.
“Short†hinged section as ramps at the rear. Whatever height seems right. 3/4†ply may be most economical top surface?
1.5x.120? Will hopefully be 24†wide or a bit less, 36†support spacing with supported seams? Ballpark 30†tall.
Need X’s? Probably a couple. Probably lighter material.
Can I borrow a long welder extension cord?
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nick has my 25' cord still from the crawler hauler build, i wont need it still for a bit
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I’ve got a 25’ too if you want to make the trip
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Thanks.
Any thoughts on what structure it'll take to support a dynamic 1200# per corner on a tire contact patch that I'll try to, but might not align exactly with a support member?
I should do some research and maths. I've got all the tools at my fingertips to model any and all of it but I don't know how to use them :)
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Took some measurements today. Hopefully tough out a design while I wait on machine time tomorrow. Doubt I’ll get to materials this week. Heavy work time.
Garage reorg happening. Few more things going for sale. Basically free to anyone here.
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Can I borrow a long welder extension cord?
if you need a permanent solution i had just ordered this one 5-10$ cheaper then amazon/ebay and arrived in 1 day
https://www.newegg.com/p/0PY-004K-00029?Item=9SIA02D8WS0660&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-
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thanks for the reminder that they're not THAT expensive.
bought a 40' 8/3 for $78.
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initial sketch that I finally got to do last night for car racks comes up with 3 4x8 sheets of decking and 277 feet of material. An online calc got me that 1.75"x.095 square would be adequate for my worst loading case. haven't yet run the calcs to compare to smaller thicker in both cost and weight.
I'd also like to do my decks out of angle and T to hold wood inside the frame rather than on top of box tubing to be lower profile. I don't know how to math that at all since angle would be counting on the decking for torsional rigidity unlike closed shapes.
|_wood_|_wood_|
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liking and currently pursuing the suggestion of pallet racking as base construction material. Before decking, bracing, and feet to spread the load, looks like I should be into it for not much over $300 for (2) 12' x 24" 3' tall driveover countertops. Add a bit for ramps, haven't determined length or design for those yet.
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lumber and steel prices are crazy now. your probably better off with racking stuff at that cost.
3 work benches and 2 sheets of peg board was another 250$ yesterday. crazy. i should have just used pallet racking for my work benches too at half the cost.
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should have my frameworks tomorrow.
$5 ea for 4' crossbars tonight, spare parts from a guy who got a bunch of racks to put cars on in his shop (3h 3w, 3 4' sections deep for whole car in. cool).
$40 ea for 6' 24" uprights from the Bergen guy tomorrow.
then I've just gotta chop, foot, brace, ramp, and top them. and probably take the lid off the toolbox I got from Ian so it'll fit under, since I know I won't have a full 36" under.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190813/2db6640cd326fc87efc8fd2a70b20308.jpg)
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does this guy sell racking?
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Yes. Delivery available. He left with a load for buffalo while I was tying down.
Retiree. Started 30 years ago as something to doo. Been full time at it and growing for 15 years. Has probably 8ksqft of indoor inventory.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190813/3f1630c9d286e5682cc46c63772b5dac.jpg)
Didn’t get the good spy shot of the FL70 and dump trailer.
One the way out the drive:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190813/fcd971b25da62546a14b562f14cf76ff.jpg)
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im still super confused what you are doing but cant wait to see.
i love my pallet racking!
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in sweeden NY?
text me the info..
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Bergen NY. ads on CL. will text you later
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ya he is the big listed used pallet racking guy. reasonable response by email for quoting also. i would have went with him but i found a killer deal right at the right time for my stuff.
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They guy I bought my cross bars from did what we did, smike. To a toys*r*us.
$18,000. 4 trailer loads (two each roughly 28 and 34’ tag enclosed). All paid for by the time he turned a quarter of it. And they’re using a LOT of it in their 60x65 space they run late models out of.
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Calendars, like a proper equipment dealer haha
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190813/726c4fc47b95cf6769bf62531519d673.jpg)
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Still need to make ramps and deck them. Can’t wait to assemble in a truck and nail down heights. This is gonna be excellent.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190814/555539872c8a7ff8eb780704653645ba.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190814/eccf04a596c241e920607e57fc45879f.jpg)
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Wishing for panel saw access to make dead straight cuts the the sixteenth. I know there’s a huge cnc router table at work I could favor, but that seems a little overkill. I’ll have to look around. I bet one of the shops has one.
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how does a truck fit under though?
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Magic?
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I don’t have enough height for a full stack. They should go nut to butt with 4’ of length to spare in the box for my 2. Hopefully same for several others. Not sure if I can get 2 bros in, that might take different magic.
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That’s 12’ plus upright widths. I was aiming for 12’ actual. That’s front bumper to rear contact patch on my bro.
Front tires on 571 tuck in the rear uprights. That’s more overlap than I had with the engine crane silliness.
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Panel saw use approved. Get that handled this afternoon/eve. Sweet.
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Wishing for panel saw access to make dead straight cuts the the sixteenth. I know there’s a huge cnc router table at work I could favor, but that seems a little overkill. I’ll have to look around. I bet one of the shops has one.
EJC probably has big boy table saw.... or just have the guy at homedepot do it where you get the material from
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so your trucks would fit in the box bumper to bumper, your just making it so the front truck is up on racking for more perm storage under it?
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and the 8's beams are for like a second set of ramps to transition in the middle? cut and angle the flange on the front, second truck parked on the ramp partly?
neat!
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putting shelves with more racking beams in a few spots? put the inside on up a notch so the shelf leans to contain stuff to the box walls! cant wait to check this out, planning on it for picnic i assume
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Not certain picnic will happen but trying. I’m going over Friday to help prep and map, that’s got priority.
Exactly right on the ramps, except they get removed to tuck rear rig under tail of front rig
Without the rear mounted spare on 571, they might fit bumper to bumper on the floor. This gets me 4ish feet of overlap.
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I think LowesDepot charges a buck a cut? That’d be a bunch because the holes aren’t 48â€. It’ll be like 20 saw swipes. Quick work but silly to pay that way for it.
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Lowe's in Canandaigua does not charge
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Whole lot easier on the way out than on the way in. I went up an elevator with a 47.5†door that wasn’t 8’ deep corner to corner. Fun.
Should have just driven down the fucking sidewalk to the at grade entrance instead of the dock but at least the elevator dumps into the wood shop (former dining hall. It’s a mess of repurposed space)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190815/777d23cd84ede3bfe32aebed12008be7.jpg)
May head to grab joe yet tonight and thinking of flex timing tomorrow. I know I’m gonna get boned on a server I have to build out. Was supposed to be done first thing this week and it’s due in by EOB tomorrow. I committed to delivery by start of next week.
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Joe is home.
Going to flex time some tomorrow and see what I can get done. Then work later. Which is a bit selfish, but is what it is for this week’s things, I guess.
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No ramps yet. I don’t love how that works out and i don’t think i like using the 8’ load bars i grabbed for that. Ramps must be removable - easily. I think I want something that hooks to the top crossmember on the rearmost leg. Need to reinforce the whole rearmost section for that , I think. Ramp load will have some forward component to it, and the top crossbar in the leg isn’t made for that load.
I’m considering welding some parts of it together once everything is settled in, but I really like the appeal of being able to raise and lower the platforms for another car.
I didn’t grab turnbuckle stuff, I plan to run Xs on each front and rear segment where the load will sit.
Materials made the assembly a foot longer than originally planned. (4)3†wide legs between each 48†segment. I think I’ll shorten the rear segment a foot in length. Long term plan requires 4’ in front of the racks, and I’m about 10†short on room for 571 with the front where it belongs right now.
Gonna have to clean up now and load the lowboy for tomorrow. No joe this weekend. Probably won’t stay over. Maybe I’ll get to put a bow on this Sunday? I don’t think i have ramp materials though.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190816/8f2a7c0ac31f305cf30873a8a448daa6.jpg)
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Made one ramp, and second is ready to weld up. Got some turnbuckles that are weaker than I’d like, don’t love what I looked at for the dead end of the X I’ve been thinking of. Maybe instead I’ll go to the wall? I don’t love that at all either.
Need to deck the ramps. Hopefully that works out. Got more 2x4 to “properly†spread the point loads.
Hope to test tomorrow.
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They will be heavier than I like.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190819/58715efb21e08d37b09ec34a4cc36c32.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190819/796ae828d1e687ca3662c692460821d1.jpg)
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Looked at some Craftsman boxes at Lowes last night. They have a couple different 41" boxes that would be a great fit. I hope the HF boxes measure out the same without casters since I don't want to spent $600 on a toolbox. Though they're still $500.
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Humbug, not finding cheaper options that aren't shit, and nothing used and reasonable.
Would be nice to pull tape in-store on this and verify true dims but I think this might be right on if I'm gonna spend anyway.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-High-Capacity-46-in-10-Drawer-Roller-Cabinet-Tool-Chest-48-22-8542/308683401
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Major construction done.
Cross bracing not done. Additional tie downs not done.
Garage mostly freed up. Hope to get Bro in Joe and 571 in garage and Joe parked tomorrow, and get rear output low range diagnosed AND cause found since I’m sure it’s the snap ring out of place again.
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Hooked the turnbuckles to the walls up high, and tied the bro to the center under itself. It rides well. Need to evaluate where to add tiedowns.
Need to either do the shortening, or find 4†more to move it forward to get both in and shut the door.
Fits like a glove. I don’t think I have any real reservations on it. It feels TALL driving up the interior ramps. Not sure how likely getting a big car up top is. Will evaluate that later, with a friend onsite.
Media of loading and testing was captured. Need to trim and edit. Had 4 cameras going to capture the crunch if it failed.
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lol
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I bet it feels tall driving up there haha
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I was waiting to hit the roof. in the short one!
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Humbug, not finding cheaper options that aren't shit, and nothing used and reasonable.
Would be nice to pull tape in-store on this and verify true dims but I think this might be right on if I'm gonna spend anyway.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-High-Capacity-46-in-10-Drawer-Roller-Cabinet-Tool-Chest-48-22-8542/308683401
Are you going to the WI race?
Some Farm n Fleets have that box on sale: https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/1112809-milwaukee-46-10-drawer-cabinet.html?feedsource=4&utm_medium=lia&adlpxid=pla;636542138120;331823946144;c;9018952;aud-383864217065:pla-636542138120;1112809;pla;local;35&gclid=CjwKCAjw-vjqBRA6EiwAe8TCk4xB-OU4EhiQxC_rNrN0Kchljje1_1T9I2mKLMl3Ww0_UIN1RzbLDRoCOU0QAvD_BwE
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damn that's a good find. wouldn't be far out of the way at all.
I was just conversing on Messenger with a couple of the boys (read: smike was berating me for poor priorities) how I'm unlikely to be able to go to Crandon due to work responsibilities. I booked a summer recap for Friday morning. I guess it wouldn't be so bad if there's just breakfast pizza and no me.
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If your not in too hurry to find a box iirc Hf is releasing the Icon brand of boxes Sept 30, reviews I've seen are pretty good so far
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I'm real picky on dimensions, and the HF stuff really isn't "cheap"
The 42" Milwaukee that I think is a really perfect size is on sale for the same price as a smaller, shallower HF box.
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https://www.fleetfarm.com/#
They’re “super center Walmart sized†compared to farm and fleet or TSC
One shop stop. Auto parts, hunting gears, fishing, licenses for fishing or guns, clothes, grocery, farm supplies, gas station, etc.
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I grew up with mills fleet farm, holiday stations, and mendards.
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Thought this might be possible but not enough that I really have a recovery plan. Think I need an engine hoist. That ought to be the safe and sane way to handle.
No apparent damage. Consequences of wet tires and not enough ramp traction.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/a48188acbbe190b6fe7d6956cb4e5a36.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/9fdb2ab3de63050048ada7b2f9b241aa.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/e8d3ab5d4e0740b685cacdd6b65b2db2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190906/a3d5b5db62dfdaf0f02f62b70f0ed0aa.jpg)
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drive 571 up right to it, attach the ranger to 571 and drag it out?
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Ooops
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hi lift and a ratchet strap... increase life insurance policy prior..
i think you need vertical guide rails on the ramps to limit side to side movement
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hate to say it, but looks like you had plenty of warning that the ramps were slippery.
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oh boy
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hate to say it, but looks like you had plenty of warning that the ramps were slippery.
Full send!
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gotta send a 4x2 to go up things like that. I actually got it to spin on the treaded aluminum ramps when I was pussyfooting more.
I think I'm going to space the right side ramps 4" or so off the wall. Close but not on top. Helps with ladder on the door and gives more margin for error on this. I knew the gap was wide.
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need some 6x6's thrown on the outside of the ramps to keep the bro in check
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Find a snowmobiler with an old track, cut it open and bolt it to the ramps
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Winch!
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Winch!
I was thinking just this! make for a more controlled loading/unloading and you get to load it if non-op.
and like others said, add 'guides' on sides, like what you see at delta sonic car wash haha.
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Much happier. Added a bunch of 1/4†bolts for wood ramp traction and moved the platforms about 7†towards center.
Didn’t get to shortening a foot yet so still no true two up hauling. Ready to repack all the crap up front though. And reorganize the toolbox a few more times. It’ll take a while to be happy with arrangement of a box that big.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190927/b2967bc41162c795dc1c6bdce65505f5.jpg)
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Tie down for documentation so you can all make fun of me after the fact if it didn’t work. Haven’t added any tiedown points yet.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190927/b014259748a4222ace66d7d98aed0c93.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190927/b813cf79b12db91bffbdce39a543282e.jpg)
This is the same method as used in previous testing and in innagural trip. If i do add points, I think it’ll be straight under the front for a cross tie, and do all front/rear control of the load from the rear with front+rear securement.
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Such much better than ever before.
Still so far to go
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190928/e5e11e7fc3e2eca07c3314d49d33c8ff.jpg)
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nice!
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Need to put some vents in the box, was quite damp in there this morning when I went looking for a set of triple square bits I thought I left in the toolbox but didn't.
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Finally shortened lengths. Still need to add a couple tie downs but this is now the basics of two up hauling, done.
Josh Wok has some likely better ramps for the interior for me too, from a car carrier.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200102/3fdcc790827891789fb51bf454e734c7.jpg)
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R335 - RAM memory read/write error inside ECM
R434 - battery supply voltage at pins .... fell below 6.2v for a fraction of a second OR ecm was not allowed to power down properly
Side of an exit ramp past Corning.
Awesome.
If battery disco/reco doesn’t do it I guess I’ll be calling for a tow
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Nope.
Fuck
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I'm available if I can help at all
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It took a hoop since the automatic process didn’t go through via roadside assistance request in the State Farm app, and i had to call back, but I’m setting up the tow through State Farm and it’s only ~$250 to get Joe home. I was expecting/fearing a grand.
I still do expect that, honestly. Or that they can’t get a company to take the job.
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Long wait but all is well. I just got home, truck will be here tomorrow morning.
B&W are good guys with good trucks.
They’ve got a twin steer T800W rotator. Overwidth, overlength, overheight. Blanket permit within 25 miles of their office.
They’re in Painted Post.
This Pete is their third or fourth biggest truck.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/4875a87e0e083449f05ca501162b830f.jpg)
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Oh no
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Dropped off around 10:15 this morning, ECU out of it and boxed up ready to go out whenever i drop a couple Amazon returns. . Didn’t owe anything more, driver called the office in front of me to verify it was settled. Gave him forty bucks for a tip. It was an easy one but cheap to me and saved my ass.
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all said not terrible! glad its home safe!
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200630/5a0d95cd318c29076b8b223c3beaf6b2.jpg)
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Got to them Thursday, shipped out Friday. 3 days ground shipping each way.
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nice it was under warranty.. but why did it blow? will it happen again?
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yup.
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not comforting to know it'd blow again and strand you somewhere.
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It'll be fine....
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There’s no way to know. It’s a computer failure. Either it’s fine or it’s fine until it’s not. What are ya gonna do?
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1st time is fine, second time there is a spare in the glove box.
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Starts and idles! Only code is my intermittent coolant level sensor code.
Finish install after lunch