M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: Wingman on March 01, 2014, 11:29:04 PM
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The secret build revealed!
Some know that I've been shopping for "random" parts and asking unusual questions that would lead one to believe that a super-secret project was afoot. Those who had to be made privy were sworn to secrecy. A heavy burden...
After much reading, image reviewing, and deliberation, I think I've finally come to the conclusion that my next project will be a ground-up custom Willys MB build, for "wreck" and road only. I've always loved the reputation and appearance of the WW2 Willys Jeep. Not quite buggy status (I'll probably regret this later) but a build that will only use the grille and hood from the real thing. The body dimensions will remain intact with a slight front clip extension to make room for the drivetrain. The goal is to remain small and as lightweight as possible and keep all of the look of an American classic. While not a thorough-bred, a tribute none the less. May have to add some real bullet holes, err, I mean, speed holes.
Couple of inspirational pics:
(http://www.twistedandes.com/foro/attachment.php?attachmentid=87174&stc=1&d=1277083577)
(http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k62/mike_gardner/E4378BB3-F1F0-4A1B-8496-D0AF337BE873-752-000000B94C0A6102_zpse91e3ba6.jpg)
(http://image.4wheeloffroad.com/f/9337361/p61185large+jeep+side_view.jpg)
Starting points:
D44 front w/RCVs
Ford 9' HP rear
D300 t-case
5.3 aluminum LS
4L60E
4-link rear?
3-link front?
coilovers?
flat belly ~20"
2x4 box frame
integrated full cage
tin body panels
36-37" tire/wheel combo
full hydro steering
~86-87" wheel base
dropped seating
lower windshield and cage height
low COG
road legal
Think "big kid's go-cart" (borrowed phrase)
Always open to words of encouragement, criticism, tech wisdom, and heckling.
So, there it is. Now to collect some more parts, tools, material, and ambition...
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Nice. Willies were a big part life when I was younger. I'm in for labor help if you need any.
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good luck sounds awesome
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Everybody loves a flat fender....
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This is gonna be sick, I'll be watching this one for sure. I would like to build a willies at some point as well.
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Sounds like a good plan.
Couple suggestions from someone who has some experience with the D44. Dont do it. Go right to the 60. And a 60 in the back too. You caould get away with stock 60 front shafts as well, but I would do the 35 spline with the Yukon lock outs. Or removeable drive slugs. Seems the money you would spend making a D44 stron enough would be better spent elsewhere?
The d44 will not be up to the task, not with a LS motor in there.
The D300 is also questionable, but I guess it could work...... But with a V8? An Atlas would be a better choice, get the low gearing and strength.
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Couple suggestions from someone who has some experience with the D44. Dont do it. Go right to the 60.
... Seems the money you would spend making a D44 stron enough would be better spent elsewhere
I see what you're after with the lighter axles and case but for the price of a RCV'd 44 you could probably be close to a 9" front running stock or cromo 60 shafts. Lighter and stronger than the 44.
Nobody should ever use a 44 in something it isn't already under :)
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
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Love it!
I vote D60 front.
Loco jeep is a great example .
350tbi / NV4500/ D300 Eaton rear (old school 14B)
He tried for years to keep a D44 under the front of his jeep. Spent mad money swapping on "better" parts.
After breaking two shafts in one trip, he was done.
I sold him D60. He put in 35 spline shafts and slugs. Done. Now he has a Built D44 he cant give away...
Next weak link was the D300, popped the rear output. Loco has a heavy foot ;D
Is this a list of parts you have? or a wish list
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44's are fine
D300 is fine
LS motor is wrong... 8)
spare me and don't destroy a MB...
dont be another Jeep built tough with chevy stuff....
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The wet Willie!!!!
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one eyed willy
(http://www.cotygonzales.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/OneEyedWilly_Fullpic_1.gif)
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I won't be destroying an MB because it's all custom. That was part of my decision to go this route and not mess with a real chassis.
And most of you know how I drive. Keeping a D44 alive shouldn't be that difficult. Had considered the front 9" route. That may become a future option.
Of that list, I have the axles less RCVs and HP third, a couple of D300s, and the LS on the way. Plan to pick up some steel this week.
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And most of you know how I drive. Keeping a D44 alive shouldn't be that difficult.
V8 power will change that 8)
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My right foot loves a tuned 5.3
Amazing how it feels like a tbi 350 when you pack the air cleaner with sand though:)
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My right foot loves a tuned 5.3
Amazing how it feels like a tbi 350 when you pack the air cleaner with sand though:)
screw you !! my TBI does just fine ;D
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Finally the cat is out of the bag.
I'm very excited to see this project start also.
I agree the 300 output is a weak link and should be upgraded asap with V8.
I'm confident Marks driving style can and will be fine with the 44. Especially with RCV's. It's all about Finess.
We had similar Dana 44 - V8 shaft breakage issues in competition , But these were Extreme rock crawling competition situations on mostly on Spraycrete.
Most major failures early on were shitty u joints and stock shafts.
However i do recall asking why not go with the 60 - 14?
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Joint_Force_Racing/Release2/images/DSC06041.jpg (http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Joint_Force_Racing/Release2/images/DSC06041.jpg)
This is what i envision.
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However i do recall asking why not go with the 60 - 14?
Housing weight, length and diff size (length and belly). Also only running 36-37" tires. Short wheel base makes inches valuable.
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I only had 3 axle breaks in 9 years - all due to u-joint failures in binding situations with my D44/360 combo on 36" tires. Granted, I don't have a heavy food, but neither does Mark.
Chromo & RCV's should be golden.
Looks like it's going to be a sweet build!
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i have broken (5) 4130 60 shafts, (2) delco 60 joints, (2) spicer joints, and (1) 4130 60 RCV
i would run the best you can afford, i spent about $6K on axle shafts last year alone....
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I'm sure you remember how well my 44 went.
I stand by it being a waste of good money to bling a 44. There are better options for the 2500 you're going to have into a balljoint, small ring gear, still not that light, thing.
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We have different driving styles, but D60 was probably the best upgrade I've ever done. Maybe something less with RCVs would have worked, but meh.
I am super excited to watch progress on this build!! Super cool.
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Chop it up!
I love this one
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e248/nrminime/Jesse%20Haines%20ProMod/DSC_0021.jpg)
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Nice stance but too buggy-esque for me. No dovetail, a real windshield and fenders, lower roof line (if possible).
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tires and front diff size represent
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Any concern about the driveline length?
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Very much. Trans and t-case options get limited fast. 4L60E and TH350 are the shortest auto trans and D300 or Atlas are the shortest possible gear cases. Won't be anywhere near the original combo of T90/D18 length. The rear stretch of 3-4" should keep rear shaft around 24"?
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oil pan belly to top of truck manifold is also a large dimention. If the car is small and tight, you should consider options for changing to lower profile top or bottom ends, or both. they are massive.
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Interweb says the thing to do is an LS1 or LS6 intake. Or ginormous hood scoop!
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Or ginormous hood scoop!
I think Arie is commenting on your parentage. Most likely in a not-so-nice manner.
:P
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Have a $50 CL 4x4 TH350 to pick up tomorrow. Good for core only but will probably have it rebuilt and use the D300 case that has the adapter already on it. For now. I know I will want OD once it is road-ready.
Also a new shop tool to pick up tomorrow! Hint - sparks will fly!
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look at you retired guy doing work and spending mamas money
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I know what it is
I know what it is!!!
B-zzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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Happy (early) birthday to me...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5762.jpg)
Mahany Welding had an unbeatable deal with full warranty. I'm so excited! Why does it have to be so cold out?
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Happy (early) birthday to me...
Mahany Welding had an unbeatable deal with full warranty. I'm so excited! Why does it have to be so cold out?
congrats.
and welcome to the "Miller" club
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Love Mahany's & Miller's!
Congrats!! Going to have tons of fun! 8)
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Keith & I were all excited when we saw a new Miller box show up at my bro-n-laws local shop to replace the Mig that was taken to PA... then we saw that it is a stick... still have not asked him why a stick.
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Congrats mark.
Your gonna love it.
HF cart is ok for the $ But def needs improvement.
Wheels in particular.
Do you have a tank and reg?
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Have tank from the old unit and new Miller came with a regulator.
I have a bunch of casters that I can use to upgrade that cart or make something better. I'm leaning on something a little more terrain-friendly. The current set-up does not roll well on the stone driveway.
Also remembered that I have a TJ poly fuel tank with pump/sender and accel/brake pedal assemblies I can use.
Trans core picked up yesterday.
Today's goal is to get steel ordered.
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Dan is awaiting your call. ;)
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Here's my steel order:
20' = 1.25 x .095 HREW tube
20' = 1.75 x .120 HREW tube
80' = 1.75 x .120 DOM tube
48' = 4 x 2 x 3/16 rect tube (frame, misc)
7' = 3 x 2 x 3/16 rect tube (rockers)
36 x 96 16g HR plate
48 x 48 3/16 HR plate
We'll see how close I am. ???
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Here's my steel order:
20' = 1.25 x .095 HREW tube
20' = 1.75 x .120 HREW tube
80' = 1.75 x .120 DOM tube
48' = 4 x 2 x 3/16 rect tube (frame, misc)
7' = 3 x 2 x 3/16 rect tube (rockers)
36 x 96 16g HR plate
48 x 48 3/16 HR plate
We'll see how close I am. ???
so far your rig weighs 798 lbs ;D
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One of the few OEM pieces arrived today...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5766.jpg)
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Here's a couple pics of Dave's Willys. He's a local buffalo guy. It's stretched 6" in the door and another 6" in the wheel well.
Injected 350, nv4500, atlas, currie built 44/9" (true hi 9 center section)
Box tubing frame, etc.
(http://s28.postimg.org/lhd6twqul/crop6.jpg)
(http://s28.postimg.org/mc4btoo31/DSC00281.jpg)
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http://buffalo.craigslist.org/pts/4335421912.html
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Come to think of it ill post some pics of Steve ships jeep. Very similar to that one.
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Wasn't Ship's built on a Bronco frame?
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Yes, Ship's was built on a Bronco Frame. I can get more info if you want.
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4 pages and no actual fabrication or progress pictures, fail
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Rough crowd!
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
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Search Newb!
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Hush, you! Steel is ordered, middle of next week...
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:)
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Just saw this. I love flat fender jeeps
I have 3 front Ford D60 housings, lmk if want one if you decide to go away from D44.
Why not 700R4 or 4L60?
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4L60E is the final plan but TH350 for now. Trans length gets critical with such a short drivetrain.
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Why not just run 4l60, or even 4l80 and have the rear stretched accordingly?
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Trying to keep the stretch as small as possible and un-noticeable. In the end, it may not matter. :-\
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I discovered that Pacemaker gets their tube from Service Steel. They only deal in Tubing.
Its The new building across from ryan and Liz.
When I stopped in there few weeks ago the manager told me they are just distribution center but I could order from main office in Buffalo.
I will pursue this option for future tube purchases.
Mainly because pacemaker doesn't seem to stock Dom anymore.
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i was told most tube comes from Murphy and Nolan- where its freighted from Michigan- they have always had the best price so i email my guy direct and have a quote in 12 hrs
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It may ultimately cone from Michigan. But on tjis recent order our tube came from Service Steel.
Pace maker is good about getting quotes back much faster than 12 hours.
However 1 week for dom delivery is unacceptable imo.
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3 days free delivery to my door is good on my usually planned schedule
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Steel finally arrived!
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Frame rails measured, cut, bent, welded. Still need some re-plates. Left the front horns long until I know final grille placement.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5778.jpg)
How do my welds look? Getting better with my new machine.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5777.jpg)
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great start.
are you working from plans / sketch / picture?
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Referencing a couple of Pirate builds, some of which had schematics and measurements. Modifying to fit my wish list and the "if I were to do it again" lists.
Ruffstuff suspension parts due next week.
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I didn’t know you could weld so nicely..
very nice Mr. retire... maybe my extra CJ3 isn’t out of the realm of possible for you..
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Looks good!
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new steel is so fun!
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Today's progress = reinforcement plates
I need a plasma cutter.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5779.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5780.jpg)
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new steel is so fun!
x2
welding new clean steel is my fav
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IMO, having a little bevel/gap when using a wirefeed welder is very important, especially on butt welds. Bead looks neat and consistent though!!
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dont be afraid to make those things diamonds.... avoid vertical welds on frame rails
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IMO, having a little bevel/gap when using a wirefeed welder is very important, especially on butt welds. Bead looks neat and consistent though!!
Yup, beveled and/or gap, where indicated.
dont be afraid to make those things diamonds.... avoid vertical welds on frame rails
Laziness and non-creative on my part. 3/16" tube and 3/16 plate. Should be good?
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dont be afraid to make those things diamonds.... avoid vertical welds on frame rails
(http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachments/jeep-hardcore-tech/594425d1304445769-frame-stretch-ideas-fish-plates.jpg)
i like this style
(http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/content/techarticles/37/23groundgussetted.jpg)
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3/16 is pleanty.
the scrambler frame i did was 2x5 11g not sure why i chose that now lol
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Fun with levels, tape measures, squares, jackstands, spare parts, and such today...
YJ leaves I picked up are rusty piles of broken-ness. I guess I'll be ordering new waggy leaves. Was leaning toward front leaves for simplicity.
Grille just set in for thickness reference. Too low in current position but will likely be down between the rails some. Leaving space in front for recessed winch.
Looks like final length should be around 127-129". That's 13" off of existing rails. 86-88" wheel base. With 36" tire, around 21" belly.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5783.jpg)
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man it is odd to actually see like a daily progress on a project!
nice work mark keep at it and dont stop!
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Ruffstuff goodness arrived.
Front spring hangers and shackle bushing, rear 4-link kit.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5784.jpg)
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Front spring mount tacked, YJ leaves slung, axle moved into place.
Have to rethink my current axle selection, they're wider than I thought. It's a crying shame too because they are almost perfect in every other way.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5796.jpg)
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how wide are they? seems youre going to be hard pressed to find anything narrower thats worth it.
shortening a long side on the front is really easy. you are getting RCVs anyway, so they can make you a custom long side.
rear is a semi float? cut and re broach, or custom shafts shouldn't be bad.
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Shorten the long side or run gunner wheels of 1 or 2 variety
Tapatalking in traffic
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how wide are they? seems youre going to be hard pressed to find anything narrower thats worth it.
front = 68" rear = 65.5"
shortening a long side on the front is really easy. you are getting RCVs anyway, so they can make you a custom long side.
If I am to keep leaves, both sides will need to be shortened to keep the diff necessarily outboard.
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needs 40"s looks fine
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link the front
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Needs smaller axles.....
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link the front
It may come to this...
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For reference, my front is 65" wide and I have low backspace wheels. I feel like 68" will be wide for a Willys based thing, at least on normal backspace wheels.
X2 on linking the front. It seems much more intimidating to build than it really is and well worth it.
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PVC conduit or pipe works great for link mockup
I'll stay out of the debate on keeping the axles or not. ;)
Progress looks great mark.
Nice welds!
Keep it going... I know how hectic retirement can get! :p
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needs 40"s looks fine
x5!
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Two potentials for axle purchase. One tomorrow and one Thursday. If they don't bite, I'm keeping them.
Investigated 4-link placement some. Any benefit to making the frame side longer than t-case output?
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To oversimplify:
The closer in position your tcase output and link mounts are the less driveshaft slip you'll use.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Because I'm curious about what you just said...
And stupid level of simplification...
so if you have a 100% equal (linear along a strict 2 plane (x, y) axis) length for the DS and CA links then you would not need the slip in the DS or t-case if you have the pivot point(CA mount bolt and DS u joint centers) at the same horizontal value and and an equal but relative y value.
x axis would be horizontal front to back. y axis vertical.
Does this apply front and rear equally?
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You'd never want to eliminate the slip splines. Even the manufactures of IFS, where both the differential and the t-case are "fixed", still build in some slippage.
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the nature of things is to never be 100%, right? metal fatigue would slowly stretch F-R length. Flex in frame/uni, etc.
It's more the "theory" question. I was thinking about it when we were working on the bumper and you had all those nice shiny parts just begging to be welded to something. when we got to the point of frame length and such the idea of how to get the best placement of the CA mounts was bothering me. if you can reduce the non-rotational forces on the DS components with proper ca mount placement it seems like something that should be thought through.
but then i do way to much thinking about things that just don't matter.
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Not quite due to articulation and roll center needing to be exact and the pinion's offset from the axle's caster change as well. Even a "perfect" setup will still use 1/8-1/4" of slip. There's no overbearing reason to really minimize slip, there are much more important factors.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Any thoughts on the 70% rule (upper link should be 70% the length of the lower)?
And is that actual length or functional swing arc length?
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If the upper is shorter and links are parallel at ride height the pinion will rotate down on droop. Generally not desirable for driveline design. I don't think I've heard this rule nor can I agree as a general rule of thumb.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Seemed counter-productive to me too. Maybe that is just a street rod thing.
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They don't have any travel to speak of. It may be an easy way to hit good antisquat numbers.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Come on do it like Ryan and Smike; hold link tab where it looks good, turn head, depress mig trigger while rotating hand back and forth. :)
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That's about where I'm at. ;D
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Any thoughts on the 70% rule (upper link should be 70% the length of the lower)?
And is that actual length or functional swing arc length?
I used this with mine. and I do not have any complaints. It is 70% of actual length
The general rules I used were:
Keep the lowers as flat as possible, uppers are 70% of lowers, 9 to 12" of vertical seperation at axle, 6 ish at other end. Build in some adjustment.
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Here are a bunch of pics of when I did it.
http://s126.photobucket.com/user/mattmey/library/#/user/mattmey/library/zuki%20linking?sort=3&page=1&_suid=139593693447603056211356619341
There are a couple more in the main folder of photobucket as well.
Same thing holds true for a 3 link or 4 link.
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I think the link numbers matter.
I will post up some tech when I get home.
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Upper axle-side link mount welded up.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5798.jpg)
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you ever see this?
http://www.orcfab.com/tech/4link1.html
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Yes, I've read that recently. Seems what it really comes down to is where you can place the mounts, where they fit. I'm really trying for a flat belly, so the LCAs will be mounted outboard of the frame rails and the uppers moved up inside respectively. I should be able to fit into the 70% (60-80% window) easily.
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no subframe on those frame rails?
going to be a rat rod or 572 style?
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No sub frame. You tell me what style this qualifies for?
Mock-up, not the correct outer bracket:
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5799.jpg)
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That's almost exactly how me and Keith did the back of my zj
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Second guy to inquire about the axles came and bought them last night. A little sad (bird-in-hand) but probably was a good thing. Now what to do...
The rear is going to NEED a high pinion something. My thought is a Ruffstuff Ford 9" (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FORD9.html) housing, True Hi9 (http://www.truehi9.com/) diff 35 spline, and full float (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FLANGE60.html) conversion.
The front may just be a D60 or may do a Ford 9"/D60 hybrid (http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsRE.aspx?id=3915) depending on funds.
Any thoughts?
Anyone have a set of usable spindles and hubs from a Chevy D60 about?
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i have found multiple times it easier to just buy a truck when looking for a set of SRW hubs.
dont forget brake brackets and spindle hardware and lockouts. its annoying to piece an axle together.
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IIRC there are some Hi9 options that may be better than the Hi9. Something in the back of my mind.
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I have wanted to build a 609 for a while now. Maybe for the bronco. I have all the tubes out to hub from a unit bearing dodge. And a line on a 9" if I get down to get it.
If you go that route, the Wilbert's PNP had some good deals on complete axles to cut up. I do not know if they are even open after the fire.
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I have wanted to build a 609 for a while now. Maybe for the bronco. I have all the tubes out to hub from a unit bearing dodge. And a line on a 9" if I get down to get it.
If you go that route, the Wilbert's PNP had some good deals on complete axles to cut up. I do not know if they are even open after the fire.
They are. Running out of secondary building.
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Seems that a quickie Google search only yielded the Currie high pinion 9 and the True Hi9.
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yeah, Currie. I seem to recall some bad blood with not standing by Hi9s that burned up from oiling issues after highway/racing use.
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with your frame side link mouts like that your Anti Squat will be well over 100%
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So, that means that when I mash it, the chassis will rise? Or just the opposite?
$$$$ Ruffstuff order completed. 15% off!
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It will force the body up. I had a problem with the zj before I locked the front axle. When ever I was off camber and the front end was not climbing the back end would raise up and lean the jeep real sketchy. Once I locked the front so that it was always pulling 95% of that went away. If I were you I would try and get as much seperation on the frame side mounts as you can get.
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I guess I can always move the lower to the bottom of the frame rail if it becomes an issue. All the reading I've been doing makes it sound like it is all a crap-shoot anyway and I'll end up changing things around later no matter how many diagrams and calculations I make. Maybe I need a spreadsheet? :P
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just weld them on where you want. if there are any serous issues they will be obvious and you fix.
i have never read up or cared about text book suspension design. i have a few of my own rules of thumb right or wrong i dont know- 6 cars so far and no complaints.
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I'm still baffled that the engineer doesn't care about the numbers behind why it works or doesn't.
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0% AS = On level ground the buggy's rear body will get lower to the ground when accellerating. the only thing that will keep the suspension from total bottoming out is the resistance of the coilovers / springs.
100% AS = The rear of the buggy will remain perfectly stable when accelerating on level ground due to the fact the that torque generated as a result of the axle wanting to twist will be transfer through the links and counter act the effect of the weight transfer.
over 100% AS = The rear of the buggy will rise on accll on flat ground because the torque generated from the axle wanting to twist is overpowering the force from weight transfer causing the rear to rise.
AS too high = vehicle hops = Axle wants to walk under the vehicle, weight transfers and unloads due to traction loss.
AS too low = vehicle wants to stand up. nose wants to lift, changing your COG.
AS "good" = no unwanted body motion. can sit on hill face and smoke the tires off !! ;D
(http://members.home.nl/vd.kraats/ligfiets/4Link5.jpg)
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Good info and excellent explanation!
So, it would seem that unless I were to drop the chassis down, there is no way I'm going to achieve optimal anti-squat numbers. Seems counter-productive for this crawler unless I go to enormous tires or drag through every obstacle. Not likely on either account. Hoping it won't be awful. If it is, I'll change it somehow. Suspension experiment 101. ;D
Not sure how some of the piles out there come anywhere close to the right number given the height their chassis and angle of their links. :o
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Is it at all possible to raise the upper control arm on the frame side up?
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Not really. That's even 2" higher than I would like. Trying to keep the floor and seating as close to the top of the center frame rail as possible. I could shorten the upper links a little and move them backward but that won't help enough to matter and hinder droop in the process.
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AS "good" = no unwanted body motion. can sit on hill face and smoke the tires off !! ;D
I think this is called "the sMike club".
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Run it and if it is that bad just drop the lower to the bottom of the frame. I'm sure you will be fine tho
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Special delivery today of a VIP (very important part)...
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VIP? Kind of pivotal! ;)
LM4 aluminum block (pre-L33), 40k miles, 290 hp, 325 f/lbs torque, "drive-by-wire"
Needs a pan change, intake should be fine. We'll see.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5800.jpg)
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sweet!
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Computer tune should be high on the list of things to get done.
It looks like a sweet motor.
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Nice Score!
How tall are these engines?
Willys have low hood lines.
I can see packaging in your future.
(http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachments/general-4x4-discussion/649377d1327652266-new-ibex-4-seat-chassis-goat-built-lm7-th400-3.jpg)
EDIT* found it.
(http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/4810/truckjb4.gif)
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Not saying that I'll have a lot of extra room...
Those are great renderings (keep that stuff coming)! Both show different oil pans than presently on it but top drawing is similar in depth. Need a different oil pan so it will be the same height as trans pan for protective skid plating. From belly to top of hood should be about 27".
LS1 intake would be the second height trim, if necessary. Concession is slightly lower HP numbers.
-
Rebuilt 4L60E acquired today. It looks dirty but I think it was painted black at some point.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5802.jpg)
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Nice
-
No progress today except for some general cleaning and link DOM retrieval. T-case adapter on 30 day back-order, Ruffstuff stuff delayed at least that long too. >:(
Might have to start bending tube. Bah! :o
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where did you get adapter from?
I can get AA if needed.
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Ordered from AA. Do you have a discount code? I'm sure I could cancel my order since I'm in for the long wait.
I ordered #50-0432 (4L60E to D300).
-
No, but I'm a dealer...
So yes. Cancel and lmk what pn it is... I can get you a price..
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is Novak conversions the same?
588$ for an adaptor? wow-
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Novak requires a tailshaft change in the trans. I opted for AA so I could easily swap in a junkyard trans without opening it up.
Novak about $100 more.
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do you eliminate the VSS for the PCM?
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Has VSS provision in the adapter. Link (http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/50-0432--1997-to-current-gm-4l60e4l65e-4wd--to-the-jeep-dana-300-transfer-caseadapter-kit/)
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No, but I'm a dealer...
So yes. Cancel and lmk what pn it is... I can get you a price..
Waiting for reply from AA.
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Has VSS provision in the adapter. Link (http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/50-0432--1997-to-current-gm-4l60e4l65e-4wd--to-the-jeep-dana-300-transfer-caseadapter-kit/)
Thats cool.
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will this adapter work for an Atlas or any other t-case you upgrade to after blowing the 300 multiple times?? I am thinking the 300 is going to be your weak link.
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Ha, no. D300 only. After the t-case tail shaft upgrade, it should be OK for my abuse.
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It didn't occur to me until now, but why did you decide to go auto? I always thought of you as somewhat of a manual trans purist.
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Packaging. Didn't want to screw with third pedal, associated linkages (hydro or steel), height, and weight. Besides, I'm getting old. And lazy.
Going to be a whole new experience for me... 8)
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Another delivery...
Corvette C6 new take-off
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5803.jpg)
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My 2¢ is that a good shifter will make or break your wheeling opinion on an auto
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No, but I'm a dealer...
So yes. Cancel and lmk what pn it is... I can get you a price..
Waiting for reply from AA.
AA cancelled the order. All yours Arie. Re-posted in your section.
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More from Ruffstuff today. Frame side link mounts, cross member mount/bushing kit, axle housing weld-on flanges, and LS engine mounts.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5804.jpg)
Finished welding up and tacking on rear link mounts.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5805.jpg)
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Rocker work today. Two more supports to be installed.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5807.jpg)
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You've been a busy boy.
I'm done with engine stand.
I can drop it off ASAP.
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No need. I'll pick it up with the bender.
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Well I'm throwing in the towel in regards to getting the Buggy finished Before Ice Breakers.
So the bender is avail.
I won't be needing it until after we return.
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boooooooooooooo
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Doc says no more stress.
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Matt G found this but I thought it might be inspirational.
http://allentown.craigslist.org/cto/4412040432.html (http://allentown.craigslist.org/cto/4412040432.html)
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Nice willys build up on cover of Newest issue of JP.
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(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/16/hyzumu6a.jpg)
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That ongoing build is very detailed on Pirate and one of the templates I'm pulling from.
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Cool
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Now with matching rockers...
This one gave me a little trouble getting it leveled and positioned >:(
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5809.jpg)
Also bent my first piece of (practice) tube
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5808.jpg)
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Looks like 88 deg. ;)
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Ordered a digital magnetic angle finder today... ;D
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husky level from depot or lowes is must
dont be afraid to use a pipe to open or stretch a bend, or twist a compound bend axis
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I like my husky. HF sells a small angle finder but it was never in Stock when I was looking.
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brave sir puting sliders on before a tub is slung!
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No tub, just tube. 8)
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Digital level accurate to .001*
Baaaaahahaha
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Bent more tube. Much better with big compressor. Way too fun. Measure 50 times, bend once.
Kind of starting to look like something. Not sure what, but something.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5812.jpg)
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Looking good
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My ignorance bites me again. And the incompetence of some people. Assuming my steel ordered was correctly filled, I've been cutting and bending what I believed to be DOM. Something didn't seem right (in my limited metallurgical knowledge) when working with the tube so I did a little research and asked a few questions about DOM and, low and behold, my order was filled incorrectly. I ordered one stick of 1.75 x .120 HREW and 4 sticks of DOM and I received the opposite. Therefore, I have been bending HREW tube instead of DOM. Yesterday's work was a total waste (other than bending practice) and, if the past orders' timeliness are any indication, any potential cage progress in the next week waiting for the right materials to arrive.
First thing Monday morning, I get to make unpleasant phone calls. Grrr! >:(
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No good. Bummer!
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This will come in handy...
Tube coping calculator (http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi)
Should reduce my cut, grind, test, grind, test, grind, test, grind, test, grind, test, etc.
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but what did you pay for? DOM or HREW?
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Hope it's not both wasted time and money. Boo.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Paid for DOM. They'd better make it right.
They've already lost my tubing business with the last order of link material being ~$2/ft higher than Service Steel.
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Tubing order getting fixed, correct material should arrive Wed or Thur. Bent tube cut off for return. Hate going backward. Really wasn't Pacemaker's fault because they don't stock DOM. Still...
Used some "spare" tires that were laying about to figure axle width. I think it's going to be set at 62" wms.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5813.jpg)
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Need some input...
Aesthetically, should the front A pillar/windshield hoop be shorter than the B pillar hoop or the same height? Any advantage to either? I'm thinking maybe slightly shorter but not dramatic to minimize vertical field-of-vision loss.
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ill say a few comments to get you thinking:
plan on running in light rain? consider where the roof ends, drips on gages, legs ect sucks.
i like the B the high point- for structural reasons around your head.
seat of the pants engineering might suggest a flat roof will pancake in a roll, instead of roll out of it.
think out the X;s and support the frame rails from spreading apart with proper cross bars. matts car is just about the best we have done with the least amount of dead tubes
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I agree with Mike
Are you planning to build around a windshield?
Seems like if you stay true willys style it won't net you the headroom you will need.
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Windshield will need to be custom. Taking a few inches off of the height because the seat will be lower than stock. Have some room to play with.
Agreed/planned on the most rigid being the B pillar.
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Another hard part arrived today...
rear TrueHi9, 5.38s, 35 spl Grizzly locker, 1350
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5815.jpg)
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Bling bling, very nice sir
-
Sweet.
-
Super high tech! Gonna be in a bling housing or are you going to truss a stock housing?
Tapatalking in traffic
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:-X 8)
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O0
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So excited! "Tubing notcher" arrived!
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5818.jpg)
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Niiiiiice!
Tapatalking in traffic
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Did some cleaning/organizing, dug my engine crane out of the corner and assembled, changed the engine oil pan, mated the trans to the engine, and slung the combo into the frame. Mounts yet to be fabbed. If I maintain the flat belly idea, the intake will need to be changed. It's tall.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5819.jpg)
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Tube exchanged today. B-pillar and tub tubes re-bent and tacked. Used the coping templates (http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi) and the joints came out MUCH better.
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Another question...
Can the engine/trans combo be level or does it need to have a rearward tilt? Historically, the tilt was required for driveline angle and the intake/carb set accordingly, correct? Neither apply here...
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Keith stopped by today and we got the windshield hoop and a couple of roof stringers done.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5820.jpg)
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Acquired a set of DRW C&C GM axles today for parts harvesting (inner "C"s, knuckles, spindles). Front might serve as an interim unit pending budget. Rear has nothing useful to me. Too bad because it is 63.5" wms. Reasonably priced SRW stuff is getting pretty scarce...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5821.jpg)
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motor doesnt car tilt / side to side up down.
feel free to off set the motor in the frame rails to make more room for drive shaft / pumpkin clearance. we forgot to do that with matts car. 928 and 571 are TIGHT to a 60 yoke.
DRW 60s suck other than parting them for cash.
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DRW 60 + D50 TTB hubs = profit?
I think the 50 hubs are the same, thinking about the dodge brake swap stuff I know. That may work.
Engine offset to get away from the chevy diff eats pedal box room fast. Seems that building around Ford drop and a passenger shifted drivetrain would be more beneficial?
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It's a DRW 14 bolt... Only slightly better-er. EDIT: you were referring to the front D60, oops. SWR hubs, 3/4 ton rotors/calipers, Ruffstuff brake bracket = done.
I'm very reluctant to flip the D300 and don't know of another good low range gear case except Atlas or Stak...
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Try and find those SRW Hubs though. You'll be buying another axle!
Check on the dana 50 thing though, might be the ticktet.
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DRW 14 hubs worth 200-250$ to jeep guys on pirate
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Arie sourced these (http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-177-703-Front-Wheel-Disc/dp/B000C9J03M) for me. Not cheap but do-able.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41WCnEbxs%2BL._SX425_.jpg)
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that is redonk cheap!
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$150 ea WITH studs and a rotor? Mad crazy cheap. I can't believe those aren't twice the price with the way used SRW stuff goes. I'd almost pick up a pair for stock so I have SRW outers if ever needed, like for Mule with other parts I already have laying around.
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ya that is crazy cheap.
i bought another truck to get SRW chevy hubs
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Brown truck delivered some more goodness this morning. Yukon D60 spindles and Stage 8 spindle nuts.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5823.jpg)
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You've been busy while we were on Vacation.
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Finished up door tubes, roof stringers, and rear struts. Even got my rattle can out.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5825.jpg)
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Nice work Mark
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Special delivery from Arie arrived today! AA trans to t-case adapter and D60 hub assemblies. Hubs even had bearing races already pressed in, too. Bearings in stock locally, yea!
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5829.jpg)
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thats crazy races too!
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Mark..
What bearings did you get?
Parts master bearings are ok and all.. But for a wheeler with your power to weight ratio I would have gone national or timken.
All delco OE parts should come preassembled.. Glad to see they are still doing it
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PMA38 outer, PM387AS inner
I didn't specify, my fault. I would have had you order them but I wasn't sure if they'd be loaded hubs. We can worry about it later.
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Got back to work the last couple days. Engine mounts done.
First attempt was tube connected to the bushing sleeve resulting in a solid mount with no bushing engagement (duh) but didn't ruin anything that I needed to finished. Cut it off and ground what I could hence the ugliness around the bushing sleeve.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5830.jpg)
Learned something new today = Weld downhill for better control of the puddle. Did a couple of ugly droopy beads today resulting in additional passes to clean them up. :-[ Other side looks far better.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5832.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5833.jpg)
There will be a removable crossbar connecting each once I borrow a bender again.
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how is your frame that wide, you are gona be rubbin!
:o
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34" outside. Should be fine.
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good 5-6" wider than any of the front engine cars i have done as i suspected
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Wanted it wide enough for exhaust manifolds and spring perches. I believe it to be only a couple inches wider than a TJ.
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Welders say always weld up hill. Otherwise the weld moves faster than the heat and you have reduced penetration.
Source: DOT licensed professional bridge welder.
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Welders say always weld up hill. Otherwise the weld moves faster than the heat and you have reduced penetration.
Source: DOT licensed professional bridge welder.
I have NEVER had an issue with downhill.
This project i did has a ton of downhill welding.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/879399-gooseneck-trailer-conversion-build.html
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I always try to weld uphill for the exact same reason. Both penetration and helping keep the puddle clean instead of overrunning imperfections.
Tapatalking in traffic
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I always try to weld uphill for the exact same reason. Both penetration and helping keep the puddle clean instead of overrunning imperfections.
Tapatalking in traffic
[soap box]
that sounds like the internets talking ::)
I can lay the same bead in any position, flat / up hill / down hill / upside down.
I think up hill may work better (slower puddle) if your welder is is not up to the task.
When I weld down hill I just crank up the welder and hammer down.
I guess what im saying Mark, is dont be afraid of down hill welding, it has its place..
I give you props for posting your work. Most never fab, much less post their work.
Keep at it. Im loving it.
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im with gif
if you have a bad weld in a certain direction, you need more practice with your machine :)
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I've got the welder set at the upper range for the material so it should be plenty hot. Penetration looks good on these. First beads in a month plus. Practice, practice, practice!
I fully expect something on this build to come apart on it's maiden voyage. I envision pulling it out of the trailer, bumping the first rock, and it collapsing around me, leaving me holding the steering wheel with a sad look on my face.
So keep at me with the criticism! Constructive or otherwise... ;D
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Practice is definitely key.
I always find myself needing to brush off the cobwebs after not welding for a while because of a Month Long Road Trip!
;)
Looking Good!
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98 lbs of rear axle housing shipped yesterday. Finally.
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Installed the new AA input gear into the t-case, temporarily bolted on the adapters, and test-fit the combination. Looks like I'll be playing with some custom clocking a bit to see what will give me the best-scenario clearance. The adapter came with two choices and the "flattest" one is still about 1.5" below belly line and tight in every way. Trans pan and likely some of the case will need clearancing.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5836.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5837.jpg)
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Sweet
-
What about a clocking ring?
Does the adapter use the stock 300 input ? Or does it replace it?
The A A clocking ring comes with a longer input and allows multiple mounting positions.
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Input replaced with GM 27 spline. Shouldn't be too difficult to drill 6 new holes in the aluminum adapter.
-
Playing with flipping the D300. Lots more clearance on the driver's side for the driveshaft but the shifter mechanism is into the trans pan. A little research seems to say that just flipping it without moving the shifter mech results in consistent leaks. There are a few kits that delete the shift rails at the stock location and add a shifter assembly on "top" of the pan. Stak makes a full replacement (http://www.stak4x4.com/Dana_300/replace-a-case.htm) aluminum case that moves everything as well as reducing weight. It's pretty too. Still less money than an Atlas.
Opinions? Other than go-buy-an-Atlas...
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Opinions? Other than go-buy-an-Atlas...
Go steal an steal an atlas.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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atlas is aluminum
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NP231 and DONE
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Can you actually just take everything out of a 300 and put it in that Stak housing? It relocates the shifters to the top of the case without adding any extra parts?
Down East Offroad seems to make a kit to relocate shifters to the top, but it looks like I'd have to give up a ton of floor to make that work. Stak housing looks pretty close to D20 in size. And it is pretty.
Having a hard time seeing how $450 into a D20 with no option for stronger front output is a good idea... I'll be paying close attention to what direction you go in here!
/hijack
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205's still looking good!
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Weight is always a concern with this project so the 205 with its heft and lack of decent low gearing is out.
231 is out because of length.
Don't have floor space to sacrifice on a "top" mount shifter.
Stak is winning this debate...
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Seems like I could put up with potential leaking and change out later, if I could resolve the trans clearance issue.
Couple of versions, both around $400, but doesn't seem like either are doing anything for floorboard clearance.
Random Pirate guy:
(http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz152/BehemothDT/D300/D300TSFCkit1_zpsd0a0fbd2.jpg)
Down East Offroad:
(http://www.downeastoffroad.com/image/74357234.jpg)
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231 with a SYE is too long? I think your rear axle is too close
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NP231 w/o SYE = 21.5", w/ SYE ~ 16"
D300 = 11.5", w/ Novak super-short tail shaft (http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/transfer_case_parts/300rx.htm) ~ 10"
Atlas II = 13.8"
It sure is a tight package. Every inch counts. After staring at the flipped D300 for a while and playing with the shift rails, I think I can trim an ear and maybe a rail or rails and make it work. Leaks be damned (for now)!
-
Rugged Ridge makes a super short sye for the 231 that would knock another inch or 2 off. Just thought I'd throw it out there.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
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I pick things up and put them down... t-cases, that is. On, off, rotate adapter 90*, on, off, move a stud, on, off, rotate adapter again, on, off, etc.
Whoever designed the D300, did not care to space the input mounting bolts evenly. In order for me to flip it, I'm going to need to drill two new holes in my shiny new AA... >:( Must be why they make clocking rings. ::)
Part of the aluminum shift tower will be trimmed, maybe a shift rail shortened. Determined to make this work.
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i have a D300 clocking ring if it helps for mock up
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Thanks, I think I've got the right/only workable position now. Ibuprofen to the rescue!
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Glue the thumb skin back on?
Any tools/alignment devices you need?
-
Give me a call this weekend on the tubeing roller.
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UPS *girl* dropped off this little 98 lb beauty...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/photo1-1.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5838.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5839.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5840.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5841.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5842.jpg)
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Oh that's pretty
Tapatalking in traffic
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Sweet Mark.
Sorry to hear it took so long!
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I still have a pair of 9 in gear sets if you need.
5:38
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Trimmed and tacked on axle-side upper and lower control arm mounts
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5844.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5845.jpg)
Looks like the rear shaft will be 17-18" with a <15* angle after the super short tail shaft!
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5843.jpg)
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Boy that's short. What's your suspension travel goal? As in what shocks do you plan to run and how bad is that going to be on driveline angles at droop
Tapatalking in traffic
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i see limit straps in your future
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Nearly 2 inches longer than a TJ rear drive shaft. I'm thinking about 4" compression and 6-8" droop. We'll see. Limit straps already on the radar.
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Just measured mine at 16 1/4. You doing CV?
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DC? Absolutely!
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More Ruffstuff today. Pinion guard, axle seals, clevis mounts, brake line brackets...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5847.jpg)
Fully welded the control arm mounts on the axle housing and spray-bombed.
Lower welds look OK.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5848.jpg)
Upper welds not great. Hopefully "gorilla" quality.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5849.jpg)
And installed the axle seals...
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It appears you're using that green etching primer? That stuff is awesome.
-
Nah, just green camo
-
Channeling your inner 315. I approve.
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:o
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Links!
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/6-20-14.jpg)
...and some hand-crafted machining.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/6-20-142.jpg)
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Flipped Her Eh?
-
mark, I think someone is in your head....
https://www.facebook.com/JeepAsylum/photos/a.321367761225121.94289.320968494598381/865943490100876/?type=1
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oh, that's NICE.
-
sure is
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Ruffstuff won't be taking orders for new axle housing until August. Going to attempt to use a standard F9 rear to fab a front. Then swap parts over to Ruffstuff housing when available.
-
Took more than a month to get these...
Mastercraft Rubicon suspension series
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/photo1-3.jpg)
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More and more like a car
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That's so funny...
I have the same seats for my 6.... Bought them 4 months premature and they came in 2 days.
I've had them in my YJ for 2.5 years... They are great.. You will be very happy.. And your ass is smaller than mine
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So everything except a front axle… Still envious. Going to be a fun ride.
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Shed some weight by swapping to 3/4 ton calipers and rotors by using TMR brackets. Only hitch was the need to drill out the rotor stud holes to 11/16". Same plan for the front.
D44 rotor on the left, D60 rotor on the right
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/photo2-1.jpg)
Teaser...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/photo1-4.jpg)
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Shed some weight by swapping to 3/4 ton calipers and rotors by using TMR brackets. Only hitch was the need to drill out the rotor stud holes to 11/16". Same plan for the front.
D44 rotor on the left, D60 rotor on the right
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/photo2-1.jpg)
Teaser...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/photo1-4.jpg)
i love new parts
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thats on my KOH list, swap to 3/4 ton front.
11/16 or 9/16?
-
11/16" with the studs that came in the hub. There is a 5/8"(?) shoulder between the knurled portion and the flange. Stock rotor was not a press fit so I opened up the replacements.
-
Novak order arrived today.
Teraflex Low300 kit (http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/transfer_case_parts/kit_low300.htm) and Novak super short HD output shaft (http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/transfer_case_parts/300rx.htm).
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5864.jpg)
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You should really get the jb low gears
-
Difference?
Besides, they're out-of-stock on the JB site (http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/).
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I was stuck buying Tera B/c I'm dealing with a scout case..
I do t take much of the opinions on JF seriously, but some of the users posting are intelligent.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/lomax-vs-tera-low-4-1-dana-300-gears-603960/
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Looking forward to this bit of info...
That upgrade has been on my list for awhile .
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One D60 paperweight. Have 4.56 gears and open carrier available...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/photo5.jpg)
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did you cut the tubes, or cut the C's to get them off?
ill take the housing off your hands if its full length
-
I cut the tubes. The Cs have to be opened up to 3.25" anyway and I was getting frustrated swinging the BFH. Burned through 3 porta-band blades on one side, plasma'd the other. Hence "paperweight" status...
-
Brake conversion weight reduction calculated with quality digital calibrated bathroom scale. 21# per side of a D60 (brackets, rotors, calipers, no pads). 34# vs 55#.
-
42# is pretty good
-
Temporary F9 prepped and ready for cutting to length.
Not 100% sure about the long center section being too long for short side. Bah!
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/photo6.jpg)
-
I was worried about the opposite... Does leaving one side (or the longer of the two if its offset a little) leave you enough width to get your WMS where you want it? I'm guessing it does if you're moving forward with it this way
-
Just. The neck-down bearing portion (about 2") gets chopped. That's all. So I guess the long center section really is no issue.
-
Rollers mounted on rear, front housing ends cut to approx width, leaf springs removed, housing slung. ~28" lower link length (90" WB). Things get a little tight near the oil pan...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/photo1-5.jpg)
-
Would have been cheaper to buy this.... Its never too late ;D
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/vehicles-trailers-sale/1791178-blue-torch-magazine-featured-m38a1-willy-jeep-crawler-44-stak-lt1-rcv-dana-60-a.html
-
Probably. Could have been wheelin' for the rest of the season too.
Besides, wanted to do things "my way"...
Far too deep into the Rubi account now. Meh.
-
http://www.stinkyfab.com/drivetrain-mockup-tools/ford-9-differential-mockup-2.html (http://www.stinkyfab.com/drivetrain-mockup-tools/ford-9-differential-mockup-2.html)
day late I suppose
-
another inspiration!
Finished out the side skins so they match the hood perfectly on the Super Willys.
(http://bbaxter51.smugmug.com/Other/Brads-Buggy/i-jN6qS2z/0/L/IMG_7024-L.jpg)
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1908356_10204140400735279_5939237364955097606_n.jpg?oh=bb9858627c6d0fec9c21642a5cea11bd&oe=545319AC)
-
I like
I like
-
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/16/921649dd2671f706a67db77e31295013.jpg)
-
Ordered front housing and REID inner Cs.
Thanks Erik!
-
This is.going to be sexyy..
-
should have went solids! make sure you get the ID spec'd right of the C' i missed that
-
Went REID because they come already bored to 3.5" and I could obtain both housing and Cs from Ruffstuff.
Speaking of Cs...
The pair I took off of the D60 came back today and were fitted to the present F9 housing and tacked at 10* pinion/8*+ caster.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/photo2-3.jpg)
-
Such a sweet build
-
Finally getting back to this thing. Been stupid busy lately.
Played with tubing roller today since Pacemaker finally got my stick of 1" delivered Friday.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5882.jpg)
...turned into inner fender structure.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/100_5883.jpg)
-
Fun times there!
Tapatalking in traffic
-
Will you retire already mark!
-
Back in the shop this afternoon...
Trans/t-case crossmember and mount completed and holding weight!
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willystransmount1.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willystransmount2.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willystransmount3.jpg)
-
Nice. Any word in getting something to hold the front wheels? :P
-
Some front "wheel holder" parts delivered today.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willysfronthousing.jpg)
-
let me know if you want some help welding those C's on
-
I think I'll be taking you up on that offer, sMike. Let's see if I can get things together before the FLX meeting. Not that it has to be then...
-
What are you guys using for high steer arms? Artec?
-
what knuckles you have?
-
Stock knuckles.
-
i believe Ryan ran stock knuckles with artec arms / tie in kit. thats what i would go with if you dont want to do solid knuckles/solid arms like matts car, or the next step solid knuckles / keyed artec tied in arms like my car.
Matt and mikes solid arms are both bent with keyed 5 bolt knuckles.
i have broken 3-4 stock knuckles.
-
Because race car? Won't apply here...
-
Because race car? Won't apply here...
Agree. I'm assuming yours will be on about the same abuse level as mine and/or Dakota... Both fine with stock knuckles
-
Stock knuckles with the Artec arms tied in is what the Profender car had. Artec is about the highest quality arm you can get for a stock knuckle.
-
Today's progress report:
King pin kits from East Cost Gear Supply. Fast shipping - 2 days!
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Kinpinkit.jpg)
Spent 40 minutes with a blasting cabinet this morning.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/knuckles2.jpg)
Dry-fit for dim confirmation before long side cut.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/knuckletempinstall.jpg)
King pin and lower race installed. Caster set. Ready for welding.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/ReidinnerC.jpg)
Comparison. Photo trickery makes "old" look much longer. Only ~1.5" shorter.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/frontaxlecompare.jpg)
Temporarily home. Link brackets next. Never mind that leaf spring hanger...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/frontaxleteaser.jpg)
-
Sweet stuffs!
No high steer is the ONLY reason Dakota knuckles lived. Stock steering arms are find. High steer and 40s it's a matter of when not if IMO
Tapatalking in traffic
-
Bling Bling right there!
-
Knuckle #2 blasted and painted.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/knuckle2.jpg)
-
Sold the "old" front Ford 9" housing w/Cs and third member this weekend!
-
BigZJ coming through!
-
Not him... Could not have been him... Not if the purchase actually happened!
Tapatalking in traffic
-
it actually was him
-
more like bigtj
-
hes the man!
-
Ready to order PSC kit and Artec arms. Any bargins or hooks out there?
-
I am an Artec dealer, Get a discount. I can get you a price if you want to throw out the part numbers.
-
Dan does PSC
-
PSC FHK100P trail series 2.5" kit w/P-pump, no mount opt, no cooling opt
(2) PSC SCCL04 ram clamps
Artec HS6020 - Ultimate D60 high steer arms
(2) Artec HS6081 - D60 knuckle bolt kit
-
What thickness aluminum sheet are you guys using for tins?
-
I did my floors, firewall and plan to do roof in .125" (1/8")
dash, side tins are .0625" (1/16")
Ryan or Smike had mentioned having used a more pliable aluminum product. The materials pacemaker sold me was not easily bent.
-
the roof on 571 is a stiffer higher cost grade. much better. 572 and 928 roofs are pretty soft 6025 i think or 6018 sounds right. else what erik said
pipe insulation by the roll 2" wide in the places where tubes touch will keep the rattle down
-
I used foam weatherstrip. Sticky back in various widths depending on where it was needed. So far so good.
-
I used foam weatherstrip. Sticky back in various widths depending on where it was needed. So far so good.
That's a good idea.
-
6$ for a 30' roll of plumbers tap. the stuff at depot is fiber rienforced and a little stronger. its 2" wide, and sticky on one side.
-
dynamat or cork tape
-
Dynamat is next on the list for me. Buggy is hot now in the summer with all this aluminum. Prob be nice in cooler weather
-
PSC kit arrived today.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willyshydrosteering.jpg)
-
Ooh yea
-
If only there was a front wheel holder ...
Wish I was able to drool over this in person. Next time I'm up we will have to weld or cut something.
-
Passenger side upper, lower, track bar link mount. Tucks just inside the frame rail. May be trimmed later.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willystoplinkmount3.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willystoplinkmount4.jpg)
-
Beefy
-
Anyone have a short chunk of 1" ID thick wall tube? Need about 22" for my track bar...
Maybe some 1.25" x .120 wall?
-
Tried every which way to fit an independent 3rd link in and could not. Resorted to a Y-link on the diff side. May add some gusseting.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/WillysfrontYlink.jpg)
Track bar (temp tube) tucks inside the frame rails just ahead of the crank pulley. Shorter than I would have liked but have limited space.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willystrackbar.jpg)
-
haha and so it begins
http://rc4x4.org/rcforum/index.php/topic,22503.0.html
-
High steer arms arrived this morning.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willyshighsteerarms.jpg)
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Steering ram mount/skid with speed and drain holes fabbed and all mounts burned in. PITA! :o
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willyssteeringrammount1-1.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/Willyssteeringrammount2.jpg)
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Nice!!
Tapatalking in traffic
-
Looks fast.
-
:o
-
Sprayed some rust preventative. Swung housing back under. Cleaned up a little and installed shop door handles.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/483b41ba-d022-4c2b-a3e9-b099b54ce176.jpg)
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Sexy
-
Track bar completed. It's boring, so no pics. :-\
-
Source for air shocks? Recommended brand? 2" x 14"
-
Wait month or three for some Profender 2x14 coilovers when I upgrade to 2.5s?
-
Front is too tight for coil-overs and want new anyway. Thanks. :)
-
swayaway 2.5s
from kustom1
http://www.kustom1warehouse.net/Sway_A_Way_Racerunner_air_shocks_p/56700-114.htm
they were best price back before i knew better. larger shafts. good shocks. id go for the 2.5s for anything. lower running pressures and everything is bigger / better
-
100% if going air shock. I'd run them again as well - I'm sure I'm well beyond what they could handle, now, but they were a really good first setup on that machine.
-
My 2.5 sway aways from kustom one warehouse have been flawless.
My 2.0's have have leak down issues.
Def go 2.5
Don't forget a swaybar. ;)
-
On a second note the ORI shocks have internal sway control...Something or other.
Slightly larger body diameter than a 2.5 air shock I believe. Maybe not.
But I know DJ from Jon fund has had great success with them.
-
ORIs are goofy... Neat, yes, but a Complicated solution to a problem that coilovers already solved.
Tapatalking in traffic
-
$85/corner difference between 2.0 and 2.5
Is it really worth it?
-
Whats your target weight? if over ~3800, I say worth it.
Tapatalking in traffic
-
Def worth it. I've run both and it's noticable
-
mine are 2.0's with no issues, no idea of how they handle compared to the 2.5's for crawling
-
Finally got the "lead" out and got back into the shop.
Put together the last outer knuckle assembly and mounted tire #4. Yea!
Also reworked the y-link because the original was not set properly. This version cannot stay because it twists/pivots allowing caster change. Once final ride height is set, I'll fab another fixed y-link.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_1182.jpg)
Also borrowed the bender from a generous guy and started to make this look more like a shell of a Willys. Unless you've done this type of work before, you cannot fathom how time consuming it is! ...and I ran out of tube. More coming next week.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_1191.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_1192.jpg)
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and this is the "Fun and easy" part.
Its the last 10% that will test you...
Keep at it.
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Coming along nicely Mark
-
Looks nice
-
and this is the "Fun and easy" part.
Its the last 10% that will test you...
Keep at it.
Looks nice
yup and yup...
looks awesome..
-
and this is the "Fun and easy" part.
Its the last 10% that will test you...
Keep at it.
Test you, IT IS KILLING ME.....
-
and this is the "Fun and easy" part.
Its the last 10% that will test you...
Keep at it.
So very true gif.
looks great mark.
Wing's Willys
The Wingster
The Wing J
Yes,
I currently have nothing to do except drink coffee and soak up the California Sun.
Wish you guys were here!
-
<--- so jealous, I shoulda went
-
i like wing's willys
haha
wish i could have gone too
looks awesome wingman
-
Looking great!
Tapatalking in traffic
-
Now with matching sides
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_1204.jpg)
and a partial 3/16" firewall
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_1205.jpg)
and some floor structure
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/33722f98-1d78-4cb9-87c0-a12f93671407.jpg)
-
Starting to really take shape!
-
Reference
D300 TeraLow 4:1 and HD tailshaft install video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8Imuc37mAw)
-
do you have a fire wall and out wire harness for that engine / trans?
-
did i read 3/16" fire wall? :o that sounds super HD heavy!
-
I believe I have a usable harness. I'll need to check.
Don't want any flexing issues with brake pedal mounting ;D
-
o i understand partial now: not partial completion but rather partial thickness by design.
-
Actually yes, 3/16" for the driver's side. I figured "why not, couldn't hurt?"
-
That's heavy-duty!
-
Nice safe thickness for aluminum, but just plain heavy for steel
Tapatalking in traffic
-
looking good last night! keep up the progress!
-
Been a while but things are getting done...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0081.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0082.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0084.jpg)
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Final-cut to the front frame rails.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0092.jpg)
"D" ring brackets welded front, back, and inside
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0093.jpg)
Corner reinforcement
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0097.jpg)
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Beadlock wheels back from powder coat. Too nice.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0099_1.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0109.jpg)
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Powdercoat? This is gonna be a nice machine!
-
One together. Learning curve large. That's a lot of bolts...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0140.jpg)
-
1/4" impact for the win
-
ready to wheel yet?
-
3/8" dewalt will do 4 KMCs 3x's around on one XRP battery and want more.
use a 5 gallon bucket if you didnt
-
Biggest part of the learning curve is the locknuts and gauging the amount of force to clamp the wheel vs. overcome the locknut friction.
Bucket used. Not ready to wheel yet. :P
-
10-15-20 ft lbs rings a bell.
Like smike said
Bucket is key.
Run them in with small impact is best.
And I soap up the beads.
Then I would always torque them around in stages.
Less attention was given on trail only wheels.
12 bolt H1's are much easier.
;)
-
24 hrs and still at pressure!
-
Last three completed. About an hour per unit. Silicone used on bead lock side, bead sealer used on inner bead. Air ratchet used and yields torque close to 20 ft-lbs. Final rounds of torque using a torque wrench. Aired to 20 psi for leak down test.
Whew.
-
No beadlocked spare? ;-)
-
No spare at all yet, beadlocked or other...
All still at pressure. I'm calling it success.
-
Nice.
-
Driver side frame notch completed. Ample room for air shock now. Not excited about it but it should be fine.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0172.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0173.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0174.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0175.jpg)
-
Ding.
Fries are done!
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
-
Notch looks good
-
How thick is the "bridge"
Have room to gusset it somehow?
-
3/16" x 2
Will gusset or brace if space permits.
-
Upper shock mount completed. 1/4" with 3/16" gussets.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0200.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0203.jpg)
-
looks tight!
-
Matching frame notch and shock mount completed on passenger side.
-
Blown apart for welding...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0006.jpg)
-
looks awesome :D
-
Glad to see it it getting used to being flopped. :)
-
90% welded. Ran out of wire. And gas.
-
Glad to see it it getting used to being flopped. :)
Ha ha ha .
What he said!
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
-
Final assembly has begun. I needed to get the pile of parts back into the shop to make winter storage room.
Engine got a hole drilled for the dip stick, oil pan installed. Trans got the torque converter filled and installed and then mated to the engine. Trans/t-case adapter kit assembled with reluctor ring, RTV, seals, and Loctite. Then refitted the pair back into the chassis.
A little toaster oven heat made the reluctor ring slide on a bit farther
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0121.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0122.jpg)
Finally married for good
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0123.jpg)
Who needs a load leveler?
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0124.jpg)
...and back to this point
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0125.jpg)
-
thats a pretty big truck intake!
-
Probably going to run it for now. LS1/LS6 intake may be in it's future...
-
Looks sweet.
I need to build me a tube thing one of these days
-
Erik and I went through the D300 t-case last weekend and installed the TeraLow 4:1 kit and Novak HD super short rear output. Got it installed in the chassis today.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0126.jpg)
Wasn't really confident in the upper link mount on the rear axle so it got some bracing.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0137.jpg)
While the welder was warm, installed the axle armor...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0135.jpg)
-
Look at the shiny impact gun...
-
I brought it so Erik could 'test-drive' it (all puns intended).
It is sooooo sweet!
-
I gotta get me some of that action. Xmas present to me for next race season :)
Tapatalking in traffic
-
is it better or lighter than the current one?
-
Somewhat heavier but nearly 2x more power! And lithium.
DCF899 (6.5#) "max torque 700 ft./lbs., breakaway torque 1,200 ft./lbs"
vs.
DCF889 (5.8#) "300-Feet Pound of maximum torque"
-
Rear axle shock tabs welded and painted. Housing swung back in place. Rear links welded, painted, and reinstalled.
-
Worth every penny IMO.
Bringing at least 1 to KOH
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
-
Recommendations for custom axle shafts?
-
Mitchell Diff in Mass
http://mitchelldifferential.com
-
RCV or Branick
http://www.branikmotorsports.com/axle.htm
-
Price out East Coast Gear Supply too.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/
-
Sent emails to all of the businesses suggested and only response from ECGS so far. We'll see what next week brings. Likely 4 weeks lead time regardless.
Anyone have some .750 bar stock or tube? Need ~18" for steering shaft.
-
ECGS is a great company to work with. They just build our front Dana 60 housing, tubes and welded on the C's.
I'm not sure if Revolution Gear sells cut-to-length axle shafts, but worth an email.
Talk to Brook, he's the head dude there. If he says you need a dealer, I am a dealer.
brook @ revolutiongear. com
-
Plugging away on the front axle.
Shock mounts burned in.
High steer arms drilled.
-
Hydro steering links cut and heim bungs tacked
Ram ends fitted and secured w/Loctite
High steer arm spacers cut to fit
-
Diff armor welded in place
Inner axle seals installed
Prepped/painted bottom of housing
Steering links welded and prepped/painted
High steer arm spacers prepped/painted
.750 x .120 steering shaft tube obtained
-
Reference to rear 609 axle:
ECGS emailed and quoted $500/set
RCV emailed and called about shafts and quoted $400/side
Branik website says $245/side
Questions:
#1. order splines exactly long enough for ARB side gears and drive flanges, very limited side-to-side movement
or....
order splines a bit longer and use snap ring to limit inward movement (think D60 stub shaft) to prevent ARB side gear crossover
#2. keep inner axle seals = gear oil captured within diff, must remove spindle to pull shafts
or....
remove inner seals = diff oil to hubs (greater leak potential), shafts easy to remove
-
I would have to take axle manufacturer advice on that question.
As far as axle seals...
I don't see "you" breaking many rear Chromoloy Dana 60 shafts.
Keep it simple!
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
-
arbs are clap trap, and you dont need snap rings on anything
get 300M and let them float
-
My first thought is an outer snap ring would be the way to go, and hub seals like stock with no inner seals.
Tapatalking in traffic
-
Mitchell quoted $529 shipped. Have one more quote out to DMR.
-
You can buy th rcv on my account
-
Front axle 'finished' and back in place
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0187.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0188.jpg)
...pretend vroom vroom noises made ;D
-
is it schrong? :)
-
Looks sweet. Cannot wait to see it in use.
-
Put some square tube in place of shocks and raised the chassis to ride height (~70-72").
Cut apart current Y-link and set pinion angle.
New Y-link mocked up and ready for burn in.
-
Crawl Mag worthy!
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
-
Looks good
Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk
-
New Y-link made
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0190.jpg)
and now officially a 'roller'
-
exhaust work today
tight-radius turn downs cut and welded in
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0192.jpg)
rough placement over rear axle
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0193.jpg)
-
Aww yeahhh! Detail time :-)
-
Radiator and grille mounting done
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0202.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0203_1.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0204.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0205.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0210.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0211.jpg)
-
Looking nice
-
Is that orange the final color?!?!
-
Yes, for tins. ;D
-
I like! :-D
-
awesome :D
looks great
-
Fun with exhaust tubing today
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0212.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0213.jpg)
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splurge for stainless misalignment if you ever plan on pulling those bolts without cutting them. or maybe some anti seize would do it. we have had terrible luck on matts car and most had to be cut out.
-
Thanks for the tip! Didn't think I would need anything since not seeing NY salt. Anti-sieze worked on the Rubicon; I'll try that.
-
I used exhaust band clamps a lot. They're not exactly reusable. I usually impact them down until there's no gap. I remember the packaging says to torque them to spec but it's way too low IMHO. I cut them off to disassembly. I'll not go back to the crummy u-bolt clamps again.
(http://cdn.jeepforum.com/forum/attachments/f13/324317d1325517150-installing-new-cat-clamps-only-doable-trouble-band-clamp.jpg)
-
Two band clamps per side. One middle split butt joint and one lap joint at muffler. Seems pretty solid.
ps: there are different designs of band clamps and the one you pictured is one of the better designs.
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Been a while since last update. Lots of stuff being tackled:
Brake booster rod fabbed and adjusted
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0240.jpg)
Brake pedal arm shortened and mounted
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0221.jpg)
Orbital mounted, steering shaft and u-joints fitted, tilt column and wheel mounted
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0227.jpg)
Exhaust finished except one band clamp, O2 sensors installed
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0243.jpg)
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Gonna be ready for Big Dogs?
Looks really nice.
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Much progress! Looking good!!
Tapatalking in traffic
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Front bumps done
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0248.jpg)
Front third member returned from ARB install
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0253.jpg)
...and front and rear third members set into the housing with LubeLockers
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0251.jpg)
All front heim bolts given a coating of anti-seize compound.
Axle housing breathers drilled and prepped.
Axle shafts ordered through ECGS.
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fuel pump, order 2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP-FITS-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-VARIOUS-REF-E2000-/221472628293?hash=item3390cc1e45:g:388AAOSw5IJWgOdS&vxp=mtr
this is the disconnect Matt and I run after blowing some of the lower $$ discos
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74102/overview/
I run the metal HF one in the brolite thats only 9$
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I still think those shocks are going to be a bit rough ;-)
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Thank you, sMike!
Jared, I'll just lower the tire pressure?!
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This week's arrivals from ECGS
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0267.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0268.jpg)
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fuel pump, order 2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ELECTRIC-FUEL-PUMP-FITS-FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY-VARIOUS-REF-E2000-/221472628293?hash=item3390cc1e45:g:388AAOSw5IJWgOdS&vxp=mtr
this is the disconnect Matt and I run after blowing some of the lower $$ discos
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74102/overview/
I run the metal HF one in the brolite thats only 9$
I used this style disconnect:
http://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-9004e-ON-OFF-Battery-Switch-with-AFD_p_1952.html?gclid=CN-F5cLVmssCFZA2aQodeh8K7g
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71dFboHTLGL._SL1463_.jpg)
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Do you know hat angles your rear arms are at? Just curious, I mocked mime up over the weekend.
Are your lowers parallel, or angled out to the wheel? I think I'm going to be about 10 degrees out on each of my lowers...
Once again, just trying to learn.
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They are nearly parallel with the frame rails, <5* by eyeball measure. In my case, it was more about packaging than anything else.
Optimally, it should be double triangulated or as close to it.
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When you'll be ready for my help with engine harness? ;D
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Two years since this project began... :o
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And you're retired. Slacker!
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Two years since this project began... :o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hbp41_vlX0
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Bulkhead done
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0120.jpg)
Floors and firewall done
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0122_1.jpg)
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looking good
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Looking great Mark!
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Might have to stop by next weekend if you are in the shop saturday. i think we are heading to WP / junkyard next weekend
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Stopped in to check progress when I was home last weekend. Looking awesome, very tidy work. Hurry up!
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I like the steering wheel condom. ;)
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Steering condom is for my protection... ;D
Bed floor and sides done this week
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0130.jpg)
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Rolled it outside to blow off the dust and metal shavings and clean up the shop a little
Snapped a few teasers:
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0137_1.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0135_1.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0139.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0140_1.jpg)
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looks awesome!
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holy steering wheel haha. now i see the tilt column. nice.
i have a programed blue and green ECM on the shelf extra.... when is this thing firing up :)
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Nice mark. Love the trunk space!
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Just mailed the ECM yesterday. Still have to trim the harness. Want to finish most of the sheetmetal work first.
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impressive work Mark, looks great. Cant wait to see this thing on the trail and the road.
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Gussets and tabs
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0142.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0143.jpg)
Inner fender and side tins
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0161.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0165_1.jpg)
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Condom moved :-o
Looking awesome sir!
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0166.jpg)
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you running any more original sheet metal?
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Just the grille. Nothing else fits. :-\
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this thing going to Big Dogs?
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Going to try. Will need a shake down run before hauling down there. Still a lot to do.
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Inspirational Willys porn
(http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/99950601+w660+h440+re0+cr1+ar0/soni-flatfender-rock-spider-7.jpg)
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ECM returned after being reprogrammed by LT1swap.com
Fuel plumbing supplies ordered
Harnesses arrived too
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0172_1.jpg)
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Getting close now!
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i just ordered the same harnesses
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Look like its built enough to start the engine wiring? Yes?
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i just ordered the same harnesses
Great minds think alike? 8)
Look like its built enough to start the engine wiring? Yes?
Soon. Potentially starting wiring things next week. But who knows... ::)
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Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/2a39411b051c859d5fed01855d096708.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160326/d16138dc7e7ac6e76ce02eb22d30e384.jpg)
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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I’d swear I read a build thread on that rig in the last couple weeks. He has some different wheels he was going to run...
Tapatalking in traffic
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one front fender completed
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0180.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0182.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0183.jpg)
rear shafts arrived today
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0181.jpg)
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That looks awesome Mark! Remind me again...What rear axle?
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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going to leave it, wrap it, rub it, paint it, or ?
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Rear is a matching Ruffstuff/TrueHi9 609.
Leaving it bare for now, tins will end up painted stock Rustoleum orange when time and weather permits.
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Orange fades quickly....
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
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For now, it won't be outside other than to wheel. Stored in the trailer or shop.
And I've been wanting another orange-something.
Don't burst my bubble... :P
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How about clear? Show off those pretty welds on the axles?
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Um, no.
First, all the steel is already painted. Second, all of my welds are far from pretty. :P
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Now with matching driver side. It is officially a "flat fender" now.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0187_1.jpg)
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Yea!
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Cowl done
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0190_1.jpg)
Time to move on to other little details
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looking more and more like a jeep..
awesome.
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nice work
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Rolled it out of the shop again to clean before beginning accel pedal modifications
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0193_1.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0195.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0194.jpg)
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This is really turning out nice mark. Aluminum roof in the plans? Let us know if you want to have a Spiderweb shade made for it.
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Not sure on roof yet. Likely a cheapie bikini top until I can get a real canvas top made. I'll keep Spiderweb in mind though.
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They are awesome and will do a custom top in any color. Or maybe american flag???
We have become pretty close with them so let us know if you decide to go that route.
Only drawback to Spiderweb shade... they don't make solid cover. Only perforated.
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Will that net me a sweet speckled sunburn pattern on my bald melon?
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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Nope No sunburn. Scandinavian bald head tested.
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Accel pedal mounted
Wiring harness pinout started
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I've been stumped with this connector on my harness. It appears to be an engine to chassis connector (AC Delco #PT2389) with provisions for ignition, gauges, and AC, CC control connections, etc. I've been all over the inter webs with no success. If anyone recognizes it and can provide a pin-out, I'd be grateful.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0196.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0197.jpg)
Doesn't this look FUN?! I performed the pin-out on the ECM in an effort to vet the mystery connector. I have all wires identified except one that goes into the harness, not the ECM. It has 3 wires and terminates near the crank pulley with no sensors nearby.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0200_1.jpg)
Not terribly concerned since all sensors seemed to be accounted for...
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Any luck?
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skip all that
pink wires and orange wires power, kick starter, tune computer, go ;D
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Still no info on the wire or connector. Going to ignore it.
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skip all that
pink wires and orange wires power, kick starter, tune computer, go ;D
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Harness nearly buttoned up, need to assemble relay pack.
skip all that
pink wires and orange wires power, kick starter, tune computer, go ;D
Would not have worked with this harness... :-\
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lies
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Thread rolled off Projects first page, time to get to work.
Installed the custom shafts in the rear housing. Slid in past the inner spindle bearing without issue and fit perfectly. It is officially a functional drive axle.
Ordered driveshafts from Hi-Angle Driveline. Had to choose between road-ability with limit strap or 2x cost and max angle. Road-ability won. ~2 weeks out.
All(?) brake supplies arrived. Time to bend little toob.
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NiCu FTW!
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0254.jpg)
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Need to come up with a non zip-tie solution...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0256.jpg)
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ss cushion clamps, tape holes into the housing easy
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Would rather weld than drill/tap 3/8" thick DOM...
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bend a flat washer into an L shape. tack weld the washer to the axle housing, zip tie brake line to the washer
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l264/jeepgif/20160530_192453_zpslvh3y7pj.jpg) (http://s98.photobucket.com/user/jeepgif/media/20160530_192453_zpslvh3y7pj.jpg.html)
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That's perfect! Thanks Gif!
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RuffStuff also has what they call Zip Tie Tabs to accomplish the same thing as the bent washer if you're into that sort of thing.
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Yeah, I was aware of those. Seemed... meh.
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Weld on a 1/4"×20 nut. Bolt on cushion clamp.
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I had thought of that too. Ended up using Gif's idea.
Front plumbed
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0258.jpg)
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thats a legit track bar angle lol
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Full droop plus
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I had thought of that too. Ended up using Gif's idea.
Front plumbed
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0258.jpg)
One suggestion, you may want to replace the zip ties that you have holding the fittings of the flex lines with worm style band clamps. I don't trust zip ties to hold the lines at the ends.
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I’d weld the oe type brake line holder brackets to the housing in that location if I were concerned.
No issues with zip ties holding those to my suspension links for years in similar action though.
Tapatalking in traffic
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i use double big boy zip ties on my links with out any failures, but it gets torn down and re wrapped at least twice a year for some reason :(
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Any flex lines that that have the potential to move are "hose"-clamped to the link and are quite solid. The hose from the housing to the upper y-link won't move, it could have been plumbed as a hard line.
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Front axle shafts assembled, short side installed.
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Accessory bracket, alternator, and power steering pump installed. Pulleys cleaned up. Thermostat and new adjustable housing installed.
Fuse/relay block connected to the harness. Power applied and pedal/throttle body and fuel pump feed tested good.
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Must be getting close now.
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Yea man!
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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Mark, My TJ is almost done as well... You plan on hitting Rausch for Eugene's benefit or WeRock?
We have similar sized rigs, it would be nice to get together instead of always just run into each other on the trail.
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As you likely saw on the Events thread, hopeful shakedown run July 4th...
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Got one new spindle bearing delivered, installed on passenger side, and reassembled the hub. Found the inner shaft yoke had clearance issues with the inner C.
Contacted ECGS and got approval to take a little material off of the yokes. All good.
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Also learned that there is a year split for oil filters on the Corvette C6 oil pan. 2005-6 LS2 pan uses ACDelco P46E or equivalent and the 2007-9 LS2 & LS3 uses ACDelco PF48E. Took me four attempts to get it right. Bah!
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Arie sourced these awesome Cardone Ultra calipers. Powder coated metallic silver, includes banjo bolt & crush washers, the works! I'm impressed at the quality.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0263.jpg)
Engine bay wiring nearly complete. Used the old battery wiring harness for alternator and starter runs and put the battery terminal end to a junction block on the firewall. Pulled switch panel power from there too. Ran 1/0 from the junction block to the battery that will be located in the rear.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0264.jpg)
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Inner spindle/axle bearings replaced as a precaution. Didn't want the 4340 stub shafts getting chewed up. Front axle now an official drive axle too.
OEM battery ground cable cut and lugs soldered on for engine/frame grounding.
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gona make it mark?!
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Fingers crossed. Couple of hiccups along the way. Punch list getting shorter.
Please stand by...................... 8)
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The 5.3 runs yet???
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This thing is a work of art!
Tapatalking in traffic
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just a few from this past weekend
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a few more...
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(http://)
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few more
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8)
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looks great mark
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looks awesome..
how did it perform?
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Once I get it running on all its cylinders and fix the leaks...
I think it did really well. I didn't push it too hard because of the injector issues but it's a fun machine! Lots of compliments and thumbs-up.
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I wonder how much it weights. It don't look like it'll be much. Especially with the all aluminum 5.3.
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I put it on the Cat scale near the house, front and back on different pads; wouldn't even read it.
Going to have an old friend come with his official scales... 8)
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definitely looks sweet out on the rocks! I bet it felt really good to finally get it out there.
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Love the picture with Mark, Mike and Mike relaxing in the buggies. :-D
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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Looks AWESOME Mark!!!
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I still think it needs a hood...
I have a red CJ3a hood im not using if you want to try..
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Any stock piece would need to be stretched. I'm waiting until the intake swap (winter project). I need to wheel it!
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Injectors woke this engine up. Way smoother and far more power.
Get the front axle to stop leaking and I'm ready for more!
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looks awesome!
can't wait to see it in person
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Catching up...
Driveshafts
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0269.jpg)
Coolers (steering on driver side, trans on passenger)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0271.jpg)
Temporary dash
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0275.jpg)
Belly skid plate
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0277.jpg)
Nitrogen or CO2 bottle mount
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0295.jpg)
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Today was the day to find the cause of the front axle inner seals leak. Pulled everything apart and pulled the Ruffstuff "BA" seals out thinking that I may have damaged them during install. They were perfect. Test-fit them on the axle shafts and found too much clearance between shaft and seal. Took a measurement of the seal surface and found it slightly less than 1.5" diameter. >:( Not Ruffstuff's fault so I'm sending their replacements back. Waiting on reply from ECGS...
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What front shafts is this unit running?
I thought 35spl were exactly 1.5"?
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They are actually slightly larger then 1.5" diameter but the seal surface was machined into them and brought them down too much.
A seal with more tolerance will solve the issue. Just waiting to see if ECGS will make good...
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what a pain
JJ is running all 40 spline front stuff in his new build!
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gearworks 10"?
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ECGS is sending out a set of Trail Gear seals. Different design, should cure the problem.
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wooo!
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Still no axles seals... >:(
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Decided on a shifter thanks to BillaVista (http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Ultimate_Offroad_Auto_Shifter/index.html)
and will modify the gates after more seat time
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0303.jpg)
Started tunnel so I could mount it
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0312.jpg)
Made a "keep-my-fingers-out-of-the-CV" cover
and welded in passenger harness mounts
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0314.jpg)
now officially a two seater with cup holders!
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I'm really happy with that shifter.
I can't adequately explain how to use it to someone else though. Smike figured it out, not sure if he 'gets it' or if it's fiddly.
I've got it set up for full squeeze to reverse from park so I don't overshoot and get N, and a slap forward will get me R from any forward gear. A full squeeze from any forward gear gets me top forward gear so I don't go past 3 into N when I want to GOFASTER!
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ECGS says PO failed to process. Now coming Next Day Air...
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i was impressed with your shifter mike. works fine and very intuitive.
id love a lockout inbetween Park and R, but my car seems to have an electronic delay of like 1.5-2 seconds anyway that tends to negate successful panic shifts.
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Axle seals finally arrived, install tomorrow morning...
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Trail Gear seal install completed, diff filled to required level, and no leaks!
Driver's hub decided not to slide back on until I changed out the inner bearing and seal. Not sure what happened there; it came off just fine...
Pending test drive, it's back to wheelin' status!
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...and it still leaks. :(
Was fine until test driving around the yard. Not nearly as bad but still bothersome. I hate leaks!
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Leftovers in the tubes?
Tapatalking in traffic
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Couldn't be so lucky
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Vents clear?
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Should be since new. Worth a check though...
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My right foot loves a tuned 5.3
I'm finding that there is truth in this statement... ;D
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looks great!
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This thing is having rich/lean issues since first trail run. One bank will read a a touch lean, the other bank will be pegged out rich. I would have suspected an intake manifold leak but the issue switched sides during the picnic ??? ...
Tested with a MAF, no change.
Ideas?
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How many O2 sensors are there?
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two
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unplug the keep alive since the weekend on 5 cylinders?
requires some learning, any codes? make sure the O2;s are good
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Only code is for MAF when absent. They were new O2 sensors. I don't remember any power disconnect since that weekend. I'll try that too.
Pulled O2 sensors, both sooty. Blew them out with compressed air. Initial idle was promising but test drive, it reverted back to rich/lean condition.
Would there be enough of a difference between Rainier sensors and Silverado sensors (source of ECU and tune)? Arie is sending Silverado sensors.
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So, in my limited knowllage of injection...
Ground or vacuum.
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no, all the same. you have flat connector or square connector? there are two different polarization kinds of square, make sure the wire colors on the 02 match the harness colors.
i dont think blowing out O2 sensors with compressed air is a good idea, dont do that lol
i would also suggest a compression check ,good to base line and record numbers on a new build
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Once again, I have proven that I am an idiot. ::)
Yesterday, I tripped on the idea that maybe I didn't have the harness routed correctly and that I may have the banks swapped side for side. I unplugged one sensor and the gauges confirmed my suspicion. So, this morning I modified the harness to remedy and the 4 lap test drive was great! Awesome power throughout. No stumbling. No exhaust bark. No more pegged gauges. No new fault codes.
Now back to the leaks...
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cool
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awesome!!!
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nice!
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Winch mounted and wired with 1/0
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0317.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0318.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0327.jpg)
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Got it weighed (half fuel, me in the seat)
Front: 1100#/1000#
Rear: 950#/900#
total: 3950#
Hit my target of <4000# with pretty good bias. I'm pretty happy with that!
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Heatsink cooler not pulling enough heat out of the trans on these hot humid days so it was time to get serious...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0331.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0334.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0335.jpg)
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Also added some high-performance items over the weekend ;D
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0338.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0342.jpg)
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nice work mark 8)
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grabbed you a maf- i didnt have many choices, but i think its the right 5 pin connector.
oddly it was the only truck i found that had the intake tubes and throttle body present. they must get big money or the turbo build guys take them
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Cool, thanks! I'll grab it at the meeting this week.
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https://vimeo.com/180679421 (https://vimeo.com/180679421)
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/6558e5cb4ef78003ae6e36629c25ab32.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/0e511f634df302c3310b1a4220a23cf9.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/492f48e492ccb0271dae52466680f711.jpg)
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/cb247fde3b4f4ae7b7ca1e00f9fabbc6.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/955725c5eff2d9bd4f655f000b2dc4b7.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/7f531b5db050dd74786df8ae4e7b3eea.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160830/d3390aecccc0563c316fc76d1b048172.jpg)
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Living up to expectation?
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it looks great..
FF was definitely called something else back in the day
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looks like fun 8)
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it was called gretchens for a while i believe.
looks like its time for some limit straps mark- those aluminum eyes like to stretch out
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it was called gretchens for a while i believe.
that's it!!
good memory
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looks like fun 8)
I highly recommend. Must plan a weekend trip.
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A Tj on 35s going to be able to wheel there?
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I did it last year during Fall Crawl with "Whatever"...
The colors are at least 1/2 step up from RC. Blues are a challenge, Blacks are for real, Reds are insane.
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looks almost what spooners and outerlimits is ;D
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it looks great..
FF was definitely called something else back in the day
gretchen's
willys looks sick on those trails
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Finally some down time to diagnose front axle leaks.
Trail Gear seals
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0384.jpg)
Neither should be leaking although the long side (one on the right) has one torn lip. My hypothesis is that the o-ring side was not a tight enough fit and was allowing fluid past. Info sent to ECGS to see what they want to do.
I'm willing to try another set of these and RTV them into the tubes.
I'm getting pretty proficient on 609s. ::) I built a jack saddle for 3rd member lifting too! Work smarter, not harder! 8)
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thats annoying.
my 60 actually hasnt been apart since KOH prep this year.
zero backlash and welded pinnion nuts seem to be the trick for my gear set woowes.
waiting on RCV grenade, they sound TERRIBLE>
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New seals RTV'd in, everything reassembled, filled, test lapped, and....................
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Fingers crossed!
Tapatalking in traffic
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No leakage overnight. A few more test laps today and parked for some more finish work and maintenance items. Still leak-free!
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Wheeled at Attica yesterday and still leak-free! I'm calling it "fixed".
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status update?
you get new rubber yet :)?
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Rubber on backorder until Dec :-[
otherwise ready-to-go
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switch to treps? there are (6) 40's and (5) 37s in Matts trailer either arent in a hurry to get mounted :)
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I have empty 17" KMCs sitting in the garage...
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boo.
you ordered 40's or 37's?
i see nothing but backordered 40 reds listed on jackson right now. when i checked price for Nick they had 42's 40's 37's in red and blue listed. boo.
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What is this Jackson and what are their prices?
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https://www.jacksonmotorsportsgroup.com
I assumed you had them on order from here too.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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$110 more per tire :o
Jackson site says "Available soon! - please call for status"
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jackson is the only place to get them. with a race log in the prices are different
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no login 40 krawler red 540$ tire shipped
race login 452 shipped
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I'd be interested in the price of a 37"...
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not listed on the site, which means they stopped production lol
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37 KR2-stickys are 434 shipped non sticky 410
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles-tires-wheels-sale/2413042-39-bfg-red-label-krawlers.html
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Had 39s in my garage but decided they were too big.
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Ah.. Yeah Mark.... Thanks For That......
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;)
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needs 39s jump one those, could have picked them up this weekend bah!
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are you using your tablet as like a low buck lowrance gps as well as the guages?
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Yes, Android-based Torque app and Maplets.
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Finally got the second t-case shifter vetted and installed. Required a little trans pan trimming but not bad. It'll be nice to have HI range available. Also, low range front dig now possible.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0054.jpg)
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whats your fuel cell size and do you have head lights? just wondering.
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do you need a data package to run the maplets or do you just use a external gps antenna
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While at Rausch last weekend, the shift rail cap popped off and drained nearly all of my t-case on Shoot the Moon. I am now hypothesizing that it occurred because of hydraulic pressure. The caps fill with fluid and then when shifting, the fluid cannot exit the cap fast enough and it gets pushed out. While it may not pop off on the first shift, it likely loosened it to the point that another shift or hard bump may eject the cap. This wouldn't occur if the Dana 300 wasn't upside down because no fluid would settle or drain into the caps.
Here is my quick and dirty solution
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0055.jpg)
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do you need a data package to run the maplets or do you just use a external gps antenna
It works without any external antenna or data.
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whats your fuel cell size and do you have head lights? just wondering.
Fuel cell is 12 gal, working on lights tomorrow
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i have a couple LED bars and cubes kicking around if you need anything
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I don't like wiring :-\
5+ hours and it's not done or done right...
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On a better note, HI range is wonderful! Can't wait to see what it's like on the road at 55mph. It'll need sway bars or a bit of shock adjustment though.
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I don't like wiring :-
5+ hours and it's not done or done right...
Bring it by mike’s tomorrow, I’ll make it work.
Or burn it trying.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I'm good at wiring. I don't think I'll get to help you! Haha
I offered to help you with engine wiring and you declined!
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Thanks guys! I do appreciate the offers.
It'll be "done" by loading time tomorrow evening. It really isn't that bad and I'm just whining. Besides, we all have to do things we don't enjoy every now and then...
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I love this thing mark! Great job with everything. Glad I finally got to read through your build thread after wheeling with you and seeing it in person this past August.
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Thanks! Most things seem to be working out as planned...
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(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/West%20Wheelin%202016/IMG_0300.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/West%20Wheelin%202016/IMG_0301.jpg)
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It sure looks like it!
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DMV documentation sent to Albany today. Estimated 3-4 weeks before any return correspondence.
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As noted in Trip Reports, the Willys made a trip to Utah in November and wheeled some iconic trails. It performed nearly flawlessly ... except for some driver error ;D
The roll tweaked the radiator and A-pillar hoop. Some minor trail repairs in the form of upper radiator mount relocation kept it wheelin' for the remainder of the trip.
So, after a good season of working bugs out, it's time to do some repairs as well as finish work and improvements. Here's the beginning of the list:
trans tunnel
trans shifter mod
shock oil
front "suck down"
fuel cell with internal pump
fluid containment
dash
passenger "OH S**T" bar
LS6 intake
hood
tires
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Time to build a new one :)
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+ floor heat containment issue.
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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Reply from Albany already?! :o
Safety Dept requesting some additional info and pics relating to engine and lighting.
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neat!
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Mark, I assume it will be a homemade vehicle then? That the route you went.
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Yes. I think it's official moniker will say "Custom".
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A guy at work went that route for his Locost 7. Said they were sticklers about bumpers and bumper heights at the inspection.
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i would try to get my hands on a transferable title.
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Phone contact made with Albany to clarify engine choice. Indicated that should be the last thing they require except a signed form that Field Investigations exam will complete...
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Field Inv package returned yesterday requesting MCO (Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin) or receipt for chassis. Understandable if the two departments aren't communicating as this package would seem quite incomplete without the other. Explanation letter and additional process photos forwarded.
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Email received re: examination appointment. Scheduled for 1/17/2017...
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Good luck.
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While I'm waiting on the DMV examiner...
Bought a porta-ram and un-tweeked the radiator hoop and A-pillar hoop as much as I could. Refabbed the radiator and grille mounts.
Added spreader bars
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0293.jpg)
Also started on the fuel cell
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0298.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0297.jpg)
Not sure how far to go with internal baffling. Figured two like the one pictured, for baffling and structure. Will be running factory style GM internal pump.
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If you're not doing a "clunk" or walboro type mats, I'd suggest a cup of sorts that your return runs into to help with using the last of the tank. Some overlapping spirals or angles to catch the slosh and allow it to be picked up when at an angle.
Two baffles like that to break it into thirds seem like plenty for half-tank slosh and structure. Looks good.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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GM fuel pump has built-in reservoir cup. Part store availability. Not expensive. Fuel gauge potential.
Dorman 2630370
(http://images.wrenchead.com/smartpages/partinfo_resize/DRE/2630370-007.jpg)
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dmv pass yet?
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Will that survive getting banged around?
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DMV delayed until end of month.
No idea if it'll survive the abuse. It is spring-loaded so it shouldn't move much. I guess I'll find out.
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factory tanks have some reliefs in the bottom of the tank that those sort of lock into. if you can do something similar that would register with the bottom of the pump it ought to last juuuuust fine.
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I'll tack a ring or nut on the bottom for a couple of the "feet".
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(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0299.jpg)
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It now has an official VIN number, title process continuing...
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0306.jpg)
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That probably deserves a party.
And maybe a writeup on the whole process ;)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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awesome!
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That must be a relief...
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I wasn't really worried about this part but still relieved that it is completed and the process is continuing.
Quick and painless 5 min exam. Wrote down the engine serial number, signed the form, and attached the sticker. Wasn't concerned with trans or t-case or any other parts since it was obviously all custom.
Forwarded a copy of the form to the Safety and Emissions department and now wait for them to issue a "Notice of Registration Acceptability". Then I can take a bunch of paperwork to the local DMV and apply for an official title.
Instructions for Registering a Homemade Vehicle (https://dmv.ny.gov/forms/vs100.pdf)
At some point, I will consolidate my experience.
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Great news
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What happens if you swap engines in the future?
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Same as if I swapped any other engine in a pre-OBD2 vehicle - nothing.
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I wondered because of the 'wrote engine serial' comment.
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Mostly to check for stolen parts.
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Fuel cell 99% finished.
Used some HF tread strips on the bottom to space it up off the floor
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0322.jpg)
Needs a vent tube and some nice bolts/nuts
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0323.jpg)
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Also received my official "Notice of Registration Acceptability" letter. Only step left before trip to DMV for plates is the local safety inspection. That's going to wait until wheelin' season.
Now on to finishing...
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Awesome!
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nice mark! double check the fine print that you have more than 30 days
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No fine print and no indication of time limit.
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Upgrading my engine fuse/relay panel
Old DIY basic hack
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0341.jpg)
New unit with fan relays
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0336.jpg)
Also ripping into the harness to cull some unneeded
trans wiring and relocate ECM inside/under the cowl
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0343.jpg)
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Looks good, want to come do mine..... ;)
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Engine harness finally complete.
ECM, TCM, and fuse/relay block mounted to cowl
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0357.jpg)
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0358.jpg)
Also got accessory drive ironed out in prep for LS6 intake
2010 Camaro water pump
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0346.jpg)
ICT Billet LS3 alternator mount
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0347.jpg)
2000 Camaro tensioner, custom bracket
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0348.jpg)
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nice work on the wiring Mark.
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Do you have this yet Mark? http://m.ebay.com/itm/301735266991?rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Ficep_ff3%3D2%26pub%3D5575261121%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5338059078%26customid%3D%26icep_item%3D301735266991%26ipn%3Dpsmain%26icep_vectorid%3D229466%26kwid%3D902099%26mtid%3D824%26kw%3Dlg%26srcrot%3D711-53200-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D1190633358487&_mwBanner=1&ul_noapp=true
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Ooooo, kinda dig that!
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New accessory drive routing is a failure. >:(
Belt flaps badly between crank pulley and alternator under any current load. I can quiet it with added pressure on the tensioner but not adequately.
Attempt #2 = Goatbuilt low-pro alternator mount (https://goatbuilt.com/shop/products/gm-ls-passenger-side-alternatortensioner-bracket/) and tensioner, enroute.
(https://goatbuilt.com/wp-content/uploads/4405-Side-View-500x500.png)
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sounds like too long a belt, then? or is the tensioner just not at the right angle to do what it needs to do?
hopefully the goat will get you taken care of!
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Tensioner currently positioned to provide maximum travel and leverage, belt correct length to put tensioner in the "zone".
My theory is that the current placement puts the tensioner in a location where it cannot react properly, between accessories on the tension side instead of the slack side. I think it has to be right after the crank pulley no matter where your accessories are placed.
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Can't pull through the tensioner. It's got the be in the "slack" area that the cranks is pushing the belt to, yup
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Goatbuilt bracket solved the issue.
I also routed the belt differently. The current belt loops around the alternator, under the water pump, around the power steering, and back to the crank - no idlers in the system, just the tensioner. Simple and "short".
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Cut some plywood to cover and insulate the floor and protect the fuel cell.
Also mounted the nitrogen bottle again.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0365.jpg)
Mounted a permanent first aid kit.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0370.jpg)
Harry found me a set of red label BFG Krawlers in Texas. Fastenal shipping FTW.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0367.jpg)
Mounted up on KMCs. Nice to have tread!
First time out of the shop since Nov.
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0385.jpg)
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you ready for RC/AOAA?
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I believe so. ;)
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Even though it was raining at RC this weekend, the improvements made over the winter performed as well as expected. The tires worked great.
Time to work on lighting.
Can't wait for the next trip! Field & Forest, look out!
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Another hurdle in the road-legal process...
Ins agent is having a hard time finding someone to insure a custom-built body/chassis?
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i sent an email to the guy here that has one that has been though the custom process asking his insurance.
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I guy I work with built a "Locost" basically a homebuilt lotus 7, had to go though the same process as you.
He insured his as a partial use vehicle through Haggarty, he also said Grundy would have insured it.
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Erie too
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Thanks for the suggestions!
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Hagerty declined "excessive/inappropriate use"
Quote requests out to Grundy and American Modern and Erie
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did you try progressive? they seem to be the most liberal in my experience
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Tried Progressive, wouldn't quote directly. Referred to local agent who failed.
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did you try progressive? they seem to be the most liberal in my experience
Insured my wetbike when nobody else would
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Erie Ins actually came up with a number by some tomfoolery hocus pocus through Progressive. Quote says "1980 jeep custom".
$845/6mo :o
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wow.
I guess they must not want to carry only one vehicle for you. I've heard great things about Erie from folks with many cars and good driving records. I should look into them, but haven't.
I pay not much more than that for everything I have plates on...
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wow, thats harsh
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They don't really want to insure it, that's for sure.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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ask them what it is to do limited use / storage for fire theft? register it, then pull the full insurance... swap later when you find something or when you increase road usage?
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Rejected by Grundy... >:(
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...and the winner is...
Geico!
$381/6mo full coverage
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hopefully they wont cancel it in a few weeks or change it like state farm did to me
thats a bit of coin for something you cant hurt.....
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that's a lot of money when you can't get blood from a stone.
I will never use Geico after dealing with them for the claim on the dumpbus. If nobody else will insure me, I'll walk.
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Lighting finished up
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0575.jpg)
Local inspection completed
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0585.jpg)
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It's done. Whew!
Armed with my documentation, I hit DMV as soon as they opened. After careful review of my paperwork, the only puzzlement was how to calculate sales tax. NY obviously wants their share. After a couple of phone calls, I got sent home to do some photocopying of receipts. All major components, they say...
So, I photocopied and I photocopied. I ended up with $2069 worth of "major" components that were not taxed at purchase. This stuff includes CL purchases like tires and trans and other purchases like seats and glass. I included lots of photocopies of stuff that shows that tax was paid too. Two copies of each, one for DMV and one for Sales Tax.
Hit the office for Visit #2 right after lunch break. Other than a glitch with the VIN on the ins card, I walked out with plates. He also advised that the title will likely take a while because of the document review and that this type of transaction requires a mandatory tax audit. I should expect a call from the (DMV) tax department. Bah! >:(
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0584.jpg)
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Congrats!
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awesome!
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This project just got cooler
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Ultimate adventure ready?
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how did the windshield turn out?
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Not pretty but functional...
1" square tube frame with 16g tacked to one side,
a hole cut for glass, one manual wiper
(http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q17/wingman0/IMG_0369.jpg)
Old pic, now hinged on the bottom as all jeep windshields should be ;D
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Well, as sMike predicted, Geico dropped the Willys. >:(
After some phone time with their underwriter, I learned that it was because it was a replica/kit. If I wanted to keep just liability on it, I could include it with some other vehicles in my fleet. So, I transferred the Corolla to them.
Hopefully, that's the last of the drama.
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Beginnings of a hood made. It'll stay like this until I can figure out a way to roll the sides, then just rivet them on...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170824/13b145dae636ac736a7e98da0ca4e9b2.jpg)
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split a tube ?
(http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-62818268114394_2258_5975128)
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Different radius on both ends
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Different radius on both ends
I think Jeff Hall can help you on this. He just got an English roller when I stopped by few months ago.
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Some UT prep
Backup lights
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171005/6a41dfdac24151d351a37cf1f0ab9b3c.jpg)
Bikini top
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171005/3ec57ea32dca77d44df0079aba0ed817.jpg)
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While on the Helldorado trail in Area BFE, the short side axle shaft seal started leaking profusely. Again. Grrr.
Pulled the front assembly out and apart today. Both side lip seals looked fine. Pushed the sealing housings out and there wasn't any good evidence of o-ring or RTV failure. I guess that doesn't mean that the RTV didn't fail.
Bah!
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Did you checked it's straightness after all of fabrication done on the axle housing?
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Shouldn't matter with these seals.
27-40 spline tolerance
http://www.trail-gear.com/product/4876/rock-assault-9-seal-housing-kit-3-1-2-x-1-4-wall#.V4cHq7grKUk
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D60 spindle seal install info
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04TLdU216sI
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This kit have way way better seal than what was shown in that video. Just a FYI to who don’t know.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1117910&cc=1127102
(https://www.rockauto.com/info/118/SBK5-A__ra_p.jpg)
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Starting to plan out sway bar stuff. I think I found enough real estate in the rear for a 12" arm. Is there a calculator or anecdotal info as to diameter for our hobby? 7/8" seems to be a common size for race cars.
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12" is very short unless your going to go to your link bars
no calculator too many variables. find a type of bar thats easy to source in a few different sizes so you can change if you want.
we run 49 spline 1.25" bars on all our cars, we have a stack different effective diamater bars also.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sway-Bar-1-1-4-Ends-13-16-Bar-Solid-37-1-2-long-49-Spline/150265997467?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Schroeder-Racing-114ARM4130-02745-Front-Sway-Bar-Arm-1-1-4-15-Dropped/302720778374?epid=28019958348&hash=item467b908086:g:TMQAAOSw8nBa5S6P
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=49+Spline+1+1%2F4+swaybar+arm&_sacat=0
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37.5" is the correct length. What do you use for bushings?
How long are the arms? 15"?
Sway bar calculator (http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/Sway-Bar-Calculator.html)
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I made steel clamp blocks for oilite bronze bushings. No slop yet.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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i use 250wall DOM with a zerk tapped in. no issues. any poly or plastic crap cracks or vacates.
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Enclosed the cargo area
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190313/6da0aaa45774ac24c4f8a8b3911c9e34.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190313/c6550eeea24f62cb7eefc48f6e270eba.jpg)
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Almost exactly 1000 miles logged over the last year, 95% trail.
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That is awesome.
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I saw it cruising down 96 to Clifton Springs a few weekends ago
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Solid season of trail duty, logging a dozen rock crawlin weekends along with other local cruise-ins, events, and ice cream, with no consequential damage or breakage to report. Needs some minor TLC over the hibernation period to be ready for 2020.
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This buggy flat out works well. Always love seeing the lines it chooses on the trail.
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too tippy for me but def a cool build and works!
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So, apparently, wheel bearings do not roll smoothly with water and grit as a lubricant... :-[
Found D60 front inners wasted when investigating rotational sounds.
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Those front inners are always the first to fail! Sometime long after the stub needles turn to dust
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Fired right up and pulled out of trailer storage. New sneakers mounted.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220314/9191390322279b033574c36129bb8399.jpg)
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Only put 500 miles on this year :-\
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Wow slow year for you.
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Get driving!
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Only put 500 miles on this year :-\
Does that account for the 4:1?
Sometimes when I am close enough behind you when we're barely moving, I catch a glimpse and think to myself "there is no way we're going 8mph right now"
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Only put 500 miles on this year :-\
Does that account for the 4:1?
Sometimes when I am close enough behind you when we're barely moving, I catch a glimpse and think to myself "there is no way we're going 8mph right now"
I given up trying to track 1:1 and 4:1. It's all in the mix.