'02 TJ with i4 -- Mid Life Crisis

[jaysenodell]

It "feels" like I should to the upgrade before I get the alignment/toe adjust. If I do the toe now then change tie rod (and ends) then I'll need an adjustment after that as well. Does that seem right?

[mr.mindless]

Correct.

[jaysenodell]

Tie rod replacement happening on Sat. Went with the ZJ since Mike had one and Mrs is being stingy with the $$.


Been looking at axle options for the d35. I'm thinking that my best bet is to find a used d35 and pull all the parts. iI will need to find one with a 4.10 ratio, but that seems pretty easy. Most of the ones I'm seeing on CL are sub $100 so the Mrs is more open to the idea. What I don't know is "are all d35 created equal?" Meaning do I need one from a TJ or will any old d35c with 4.10 provide me usable donor shafts and diff parts?

[Wingman]

What parts are you harvesting?

[M4wdFab]

looks like 35% stronger chromo shafts are 140$ a piece


are all D35 shafts the same?  i may have some in the pile from gutted axles that got scrapped. 

[Wingman]

I'd say that if you are intent on keeping the D35, then save a little $$ and big headache and

looks like 35% stronger chromo shafts are 140$ a piece

[luvmyxj]

idk about tj's ,but xj's came with  a c-clip and a nonc-clip d35

[jaysenodell]

My thought would be shafts and carrier assembly+pinion if 4.10. Shafts and spiders if not 4.10. From what I can tell most breaks are spiders and shafts with 4.10. If I regear to 4.56 then pinons seem to break a lot.


The cost of regearing seems like a waste at this point since I've been finding d44 and f8.8 with 4.56 and 4.88 within budget. I'd rather give Mike a few bucks to get a solid 8.8 in the rear than blow 1K on regearing the d35.

[jaysenodell]

looks like 35% stronger chromo shafts are 140$ a piece

Cheap chromo full sets (shafts only) NEW seemed to be in the $240 range. I think I saw a no-name at the $170 range. The only reviews I found were not good. Compare that to a full d35 off a cherokee on CL (syracuse) that was $60. I'm assuming diff issue or shaft issue, but if I got one good shaft out of it I'd still be ahead.


It is entirely possible I've been looking in the wrong places for new though.

[Harrison]

Changing the shafts is a pain. You have to remove the cover (draining all the oil) and fish out the little c-clip. Not a fun trail repair.

Chromo shafts will at least reduce the likelyhood of having to do that somewhere less than ideal. You can install them in a warm garage on a dry floor 

[jaysenodell]

Yeah. I get that. Right now it's about just getting by till the mrs is really hooked. Being kid free in a year will make it easier a bit later.

Quick question on replacing the tie rod: instinct tells me to apply thin grease to adjusting collar threads to prevent rust freeze up. Right idea?

[dubt]

anti seize sounds like a solid plan

[M4wdFab]

Joe, matts brother has a 4.88 d35, extra 4.10 gear set, and extra set of shafts.   His junk before we did the 8.8 swap

[jaysenodell]

Done. Not too hard. Nice to have an "emergency spare" should I need it. Just need grease gun for tre and will take it for a spin. Toe set to 0 (66 3/8" front and rear using staples I put in tread).

D35 with gearing and spares is very tempting. Aren't 488 risky in a d30/35? More so than just a 410 or 452 or wheeling on a d35 ...

[jaysenodell]

Would DW cause/be caused by a steering fluid leak?

Noticed a very large a mont of fluid while chasing a noise under MLC. Traced it up to the steering fluid pump (assuming the a pulley driven device with hose to steering fluid reservoir is the pump). This leak was not evident last weekend so I'm wondering if it is a possible cause of the current behavior. The fluid on the control arm was still clean and red to a signifanct amount of it is fresh.

Thoughts?