M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on October 10, 2019, 03:04:15 PM
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Click to embiggen
Asking $1750 in Brattleboro VT. Has some rust and a driver window issue, air suspension is all freshly re-bagged and air suspension is fully happy, daily driver status.
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/brattleboro/IMG_20190904_114810840.jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/brattleboro/IMG_20190904_114810840_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/brattleboro/IMG_20190904_114830824.jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/brattleboro/IMG_20190904_114830824_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/brattleboro/IMG_20190904_114848448.jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/brattleboro/IMG_20190904_114848448_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/brattleboro/IMG_20190904_114907402.jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/brattleboro/IMG_20190904_114907402_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/brattleboro/IMG_20190904_114921831.jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/brattleboro/IMG_20190904_114921831_orig.jpg)
Asking $2000 in Greece NY, finally got back to me after a couple days. Can look at after 7p, but I've got flashlights.
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/rochesterCL/00y0y_2j6X08ZiuA6_1200x900.jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/rochesterCL/00y0y_2j6X08ZiuA6_1200x900_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/rochesterCL/00909_3Zg1ktLVdSv_1200x900.jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/rochesterCL/00909_3Zg1ktLVdSv_1200x900_orig.jpg)
Manual swap is available and done relatively often, $1200 in parts probably plus shipping. Automatics have torque converter issues, and almost all were sold as autos.
Inspiration and semi-plan. An updated and nicer Eagle. And 250hp stock from a twin turbo 2.7 v6 that's probably a maintenance nightmare.
more here http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(13).jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(13)_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(14).jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(14)_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(15).jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(15)_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(16).jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(16)_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(17).jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(17)_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/20170820_162127Full_compression.jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/20170820_162127Full_compression_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201706_delrin-spacers%20(3).jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201706_delrin-spacers%20(3)_orig.jpg)
(http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(1).jpg) (http://mike.tepidcola.com/images/allroad/inspiration/201710_allroad_stage2_IPP_lift_kit%20(1)_orig.jpg)
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lift kit credit to this post https://forums.quattroworld.com/allroad/msgs/266318.phtml
photos all broken in the post, I rehosted them. they are still online now but I don't want to lose them.
I've been working on an 2" lift kit for the allroad, and after several months of testing, here it is
Posted by: silva (1473) on 2017-11-05 10:51:38
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After seeing Nogaro Nitwit's allroad with the BFGoodrich KO2 tires, I really wanted to do something similar. Having learned that he had some issues with the tires rubbing inside the wheel wells, I decided to lay under the car for a while and see if a light bulb would go on. I think it may have!
What you see in the photos below is level 1 at where level 2 used to be, and then each subsequent level being higher. You can also see that there's a 6" difference in height at level 4 compared to an allroad at level 1. There's a minimum of 11" of ground clearance (under the belly pan) at level 4 while most of the rest of the car has 14" of ground clearance. It's silly, really, but it works well. Another benefit of this is that even with the air suspension fully deflated, the over-sized tires do not rub in the fender liners (untested at full steering angles).
This was achieved by installing some 1" delrin body spacers between the front and rear strut mounting plates and the body. I designed and had them CNC-machined. A 1" spacer on the strut has lowered the location of the bump stop approximately 2". This will put the minimum height (fender to ground) at approximately 26.5", which is about the same as the stock allroad tire diameter. With the BFG 215/70/16 there is no rubbing with the suspension fully deflated.
The vertical connecting links between the suspension and the height sensors have all been lengthened by 20mm. This allows the Level Control Module (LCM) to work within its designed operating parameters. I initially tried to program the LCM so that level 2 would be 35mm higher than level 1 (making level 1 equal to previous level 2) but the LCM does not accept values so far out of its programmable range.
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Intended use?
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Daily, exploring, winter poker runs, maybe green trails if I’m bored some weekend and don’t wanna bring out the big toys.
Overlanding with a sweet $4500 rooftop tent since they apparently cost what three of my typical cars cost.
Wintertime snow based idiocy in general.
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with your commute i dont see how a 400 XJ wouldnt fit all requirements and not need a rooftop tent.
hope you find something useful.
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Zero interest in ratty XJ dailies. They just don’t turn my crank. WJs... (I should scrap that...)
The tent is mostly a joke. I had the thought and then died at the price.
Dog dictates some types of flexibility on things for another 5-7years though. ¯_(ツ)_/¯
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Sell all your shit and get a new bike!
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Wish I didn’t think bikes were dumb now. True fact. But I kinda do.
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:o
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Biking to work in all weather ruined me. Then I got fatter. Pure coincidence I’m certain. Which also ruined me.
Maybe next year. [in perpetuity]
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Mike, you're the perfect candidate for an ebike.
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WJs... (I should scrap that...)
ehh
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with your commute i dont see how a 400 XJ wouldnt fit all requirements and not need a rooftop tent.
I second this.
Ask M to find you a clean southern unit.
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with your commute i dont see how a 400 XJ wouldnt fit all requirements and not need a rooftop tent.
I second this.
Ask M to find you a clean southern unit.
I did, and it got sold lightning quick. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/455032872027418/?ref=messenger_share
edit: oh, you mean XJs. Good clean rust free XJs examples in the south go for $4k-$5k. They're like gold down here. I noticed they're way cheaper up north because of rust.
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Checked out the silver $2k car tonight. Drove it. Has some electrical issues, and is no longer on air. Was spring-swapped. otherwise very good.
Hvac controls and function were flickering, and known and confirmed bad wire to oil pressure sensor. Sensor and pump swapped. Has some oils leaks from pan gasket issue and valve cover gaskets are needed. Shifter brake-park interlock is non-op and needs a screwdriver to go into gear.
Could be patched into Wonder status in a couple hours with a mechanical oil gauge + hardwired sensor and some shifter parts broken off. Oil leaks aren’t bad enough to preclude driving. Just to preclude parking in the exact same spot all the time.
I’m loving the idea of resurrecting the $600 manual trans unit near Albany. That’s not above i don’t think. After looking one over in person I’m near certain the engine has to come out to do a head. There’s great front access to do timing belts and accessories but side access is retarded tight. Engine bay is packed.
The autos seem to fail at about the age the one I looked at is, ~150k. The mileage most of these have reached...
I think I need to clean out the driveway of VWs and have them both. Because I’m damaged in the head and fixated on a new shiny object. Drive silver through the winter and send it in months after I fix up maroon.
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oh my
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idiocy may have reached next level thanks to a spotting by Mr. Turan. Talking to a seller tomorrow morning and will need to make sure Sarah can dogsit if things go well
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idiocy may have reached next level thanks to a spotting by Mr. Turan. Talking to a seller tomorrow morning and will need to make sure Sarah can dogsit if things go well
deets?
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Cat’s out of the bag on fb
Flying to SLC and driving this home on Monday.
Gonna get shuttled around Salt Lake by a monster jam tech I haven’t seen since I quit, and hopefully catch some friends around Denver on the way back. Hoping to hear from Steph and JT. Might need to get JTs digits from Erik. Might stop in Moab then take my time through Colorado, and hustle back from there.
It’s recently on coilovers instead of air springs and the rears aren’t adjusted to proper height. It apparently needs rear tires too. Just had some suspension work incl alignment done. Not sure why one would align a multi-link car at not its final ride height, but who knows. Getting confirmation on tire size tomorrow and I’ll see how the craigslist tire population is out there. Would rather not buy 4 new of what I want there then cook them on bad alignment.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191015/acfd88cdb5d8fb52e3dab3e9d01bd8ee.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191015/32ae05de20dae6b9b4846a76cfcc6620.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191015/de973792206cae9cff5bbd2738f9b775.jpg)
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Expectations:
Massive oil leak, doesn’t run right, suspension is falling out of the car.
Likely won’t be worse than that. And it really should be better than that. It does have typical oil leaks, and the bad rear tires. I’d bet they’re original tires and it was driven around with rear bags blown and alignment AFU.
I’ve got photos of paperwork and ID. Guy seemed totally legit on the phone. He hasn’t had it long. Decided to keep sticking money into his 7.3 ford and race quads instead of fixing up a wannabe rally car to get to the shooting range in style.
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you're crazy!
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^^^ this. :D
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Correct.
But Eagle set a precident for this being a good idea. and this is its spiritual successor.
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But Eagle set a precident for this being a good idea.
by who? ;D ;D ;D
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spend 1200 to pick up a 2000$ car? oof.
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Your neighbors will be excited to see the quality of car has stepped up into the 2000s and a fancy Audi
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But Eagle set a precident for this being a good idea.
by who? ;D ;D ;D
hmm.. Eagle could have been kept running with duct tape and shoelaces to make it home.. an Audi.. probably not so much... hopefully it is not too much of an adventure, but we will all be here waiting for updates!
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spend 1200 to pick up a 2000$ car? oof.
You're about 2x on expectation there.
Hopefully there won't be a tow bill to make you right. I think flight was $220 or so, expecting 20mpg and $3/gal for 2000 miles.
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I do like an eagle to be honest
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The Eagle had some classic/historic appeal
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with all of your VW dealings I'm sure you have the Vag Com software on a laptop? Or a really good scan tool?
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vag-com, yup.
my ram had me wishing I had something more, then I priced a DRB3 and went back to swapping parts to diagnose.
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I hear you..
This is what I have, it's older, and the windows boot up is slow, but its been great, updated to model year 18 (last upgrade) and has all of the European software on it as well.
https://www.snapon.com/diagnostics/us/VERDICT
I think I gave $800, still in the case with all of the accessories and manuals.
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Erik and Stef let me know why I was having no craigslist luck on tires (car needs a pair if I didn’t mention).
Local news outlet OWNS classifies there. KSL is it.
245/40r18 delinte d7 https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/57813683
130 mounted balanced and out the door for a pair. Fuck that stupid tire size but i know it fits as the car sits.
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Facebook marketplace has pretty much taken over everything, Offerup gets some stuff, Craigslist is dead. KSL is more Northern Utah than down here.
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Tons on KSL up in SLC.
I hate fbm. But you’re right. People have no taste.
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130 mounted balanced and out the door for a pair. Fuck that stupid tire size but i know it fits as the car sits.
Isn't the allroad AWD? Shouldnt tire size be symmetrical on all 4?
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As compared to the difference between its current bald rears and good fronts.
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ah, didnt realize rears were bald.
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Locked and loaded
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i just realized Allroad is the name of the car
i just thought you meant you accepted all roads lead to idiocy via MMTR lol
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i just realized Allroad is the name of the car
i just thought you meant you accepted all roads lead to idiocy via MMTR lol
Same here
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Hahahahahahahaaaaaa
True.
Bunked out in JT’s trailer. Was a project to swap stock wheels on and that kept me in town*. Capt Rob’s shop to the rescue.
I’m getting rear toe adjusted first thing tomorrow before I leave SLC. I’ll regret it if I don’t from handling/ stability, and I don’t know if tires would make it 2500 miles home without showing cord.
Oil leaks will be dealt with swiftly before dd status. It stinks at idle rest.
It’s also likely gonna get a tune once it’s fully healthy and all basics are attended to. I expect more from 250hp awd 6sp.
Dumpy butt look is even more severe with slightly smaller rolling stock. I don’t know what struts were swapped on but it’s dumb. One could say: idiotic.
*the 18s on it are larger center bore than stock, and it has ~20mm spacers on it which means over length lug bolts. Had to get eccentric ring off spacer to run spacer with stock wheel, or find/ cut shorter lug bolts.
I should have probably put a pair of tires on the rear on the existing wheels and saved the room and weight of hauling 4 tires cross country. Too late now and I didn’t realize the quick fix wasn’t gonna be quick until it was too late.
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One adjuster seized. Hopefull for great improvement. Hitting the road for Moab so I’ll see!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191022/51cf208bb74bda5c3c51a355cb640743.jpg)
Typical SLC commute view doesn’t suck
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191022/9a82c75fb1e2df21062b1aba2e76480e.jpg)
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I cant wait to see that mountain range again. 1st week of Nov.
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Moab diner. Yum
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Moab diner. Yum
Was thinking about that place very recently...
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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ice cream!
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Stopped in Veil for the night.
Spent about 6hr hiking Arches NP. Couple spend another day easy.
Accidentally left the park via 40 miles of washboard dirt. Loose link in the right font was clunking. Gave it some torque but I think there’s some wear done from long term looseness. Might have spare parts in back for it.
Drives great. Not using any oil. Washboard road fixed cruise and fog lights so I know that was funk in switches.
Can’t wait to make this thing good. It’s already ok even as a basketcase.
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Effighham IL. 711 miles to go.
It isn’t using any oil. Consistently sets post-catalytic o2 codes :( rich on one bank lean on the other, wires swapped on one
Air suspension height sensors still present and functional, values pass sanity check (+10mm in front, -85mm rear)
The RF suspension link I tightened yesterday is clunking again. Pretty sure I have a spare knuckle and spare link in back, but not a spare bolt if I overtorque and break it. Loose pinch bolt. I expect the knuckle is worn from being loose.
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making time! maybe its just plugged up cats making codes and sucking power away!
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Could be. Low power could also be that I’m used to peak power nearly off idle and this burns gasoline. It doesn’t have full party mode at the moment but it at least gets out on the dance floor beyond ~3300.
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What mpg are you getting
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Very low 20s doing low 70s.
I need to correct for tire size, will report later. Car computer thinks I’m getting 24.5 and odometer is roughly 10% off.
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Home safe.
Only LEO interaction was first thing this morning with a townie making sure I wasn’t an out of town OD.
Only mechanical was that damn loose suspension link banging on bumps. I’ll have to post a picture, it’s a weird design.
Ignoring it as-landed until next week. There’s a short 571 punch list before departure after work hours tomorrow for hallowheeling.
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wasn’t an out of town OD.
??
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Utah plate on a car full of shit in a gravel lot in effingham Indiana. Hat over face under jacket and not moving. He thought I might be dead.
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oh.. OD=Over Dose.. did not think of that because of your usual obscure abbreviations..
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lol
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Used tested-good air shocks and struts arrive tomorrow.
See how quick and fun it’ll be to swap that stuff around.
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found paperwork today that indicates failed emissions inspection and suspension issues on the car dating back to 2016 😂
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Dumpybutt done.
Had wrong o rings in stock to fix bad ones on existing air lines. Hopefully that’s the gross leak on right side and I think it is.
Front still on steel springs. It’s got the one link issue, and I found the spare knuckles I have are non-Allroad and different, so we’ll see what good the spare parts I have will do.
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Picked up a clunk in the RR. Almost sounds like strut to spring is loose and I’ll need to tear it down again At least I can hear the clunk when parked and i move the car around. I can hear that air leak too.
O rings in tomorrow. Be very interested to see how leakdown is when those are replaced proper. IF the o rings come sized right. They were bagged wrong when I last needed the same size. That was 6 months ago.
It sits straight and happy on level 2 now. Likely leave it there for a bit until I get front suspension parts in for the bad link instead of tearing down twice. Probably wait till I have a spacer kit and tricky links made up.
Should be able to size tires and figure proper wheel offset now. I hear front clearance is tight but it looks like as long as I stay off the knuckle it’s not bad.
Know it needs rear brakes. Haven’t looked at fronts.
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what size tires you aimin' to squeeze in?
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these are 205/55r16.
it was previously on 245/40r18.
"standard" big tire size is 225/65r16 with nothing more than air suspension adjustment
225/75r16 is supposedly good with a lift kit.
pictures of the offroad allroad from first post are on 215/70r16 with no rub at no air status, which is kinda important. Needing a tow if air goes out is off the table.
I'd like to get hold of a sample tire in that size to play with backspacing and whatnot.
I'm thinking I'll try to just go as big as I can without cutting and while maintaining full travel.
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5.5x8†raw material needed for rear strut spacer
Approx 2.5†center hole.
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Perfect.
Hopefully she gets back to me. Fuck FBM.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191029/eab44bf9eb705444579b2eca1637bdd7.jpg)
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5.5x8†raw material needed for rear strut spacer
Approx 2.5†center hole.
you need something the size of a paint can to space a strut? o my
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Picking up those tires tonight. Excited.
I’m sad the A4 platform Jetta isn’t available in AWD. Drove last night and today, and frankly I like it better. I think it’s the fresh shocks and 1,000lb weight loss. An .:R32 isn’t what I’m after at all though. All the Audi stuff is B platform, and I hate the B4. So ugly.
Rear strut perch, just 2 10mm bolts to a “shelf†on the body:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191030/9dde724e95b70f9c50764ad7fde61a68.jpg)
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just buy more cars and put them together ;D
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rear spacer material ordered.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delrin-1-034-X-8-5-034-X-11-5-034-8001-/303133429233?&hash=item4694290df1:g:ErEAAOSwsWVcvlSS&autorefresh=true
Hope I can use some lathe time to turn spacers for the front out of 7075 drops I have from making links. 6 straight through 1" long spacers with male and female registers to locate them.
Need to grab bolt sizes to get proper longer bolts unless I have them around from dismantling other things, which I may...
Looks like for wheel adaptors, they're easy to find hubcentric in 20mm. Hopefully that's about right or I'll have to dig. I don't know offset/backspacing on these wheels yet.
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easier solution if I don't find the spacer I want: "wobble bolts" with an eccentric washer and then use a straight up 5x114.3 Jeep spacer that grow on trees in whatever proper thickness. on a hub-centric hub with proper rings that doesn't even seem sketchy enough to call sketchy.
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What mpg are you getting
corrected MPG for the little tires: best tank 22.6 (OH to NY), worst tank 18.9 (MO to OH). Trip average 20.7, was doing 75ish most of the time, usually using cruise.
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Looks so good it was hard to take them off, but I don’t have proper rings OR good bolt figments so setting down on them was as much as I was willing to do. Trash wheels are back on now.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191031/4217e162a8c750031a8697cbf143189a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191031/3909d736bb98c0b46963d0d953c8576d.plist)
Current spacers are 0.610â€
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191031/9d65cc2fa824393bbf557f3597282b29.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191031/1badf384410ceb467312c789d9251316.jpg)
Little cozy without some shifting of things on the front of the front at full lock. Unsurprising.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191031/89b3ddee2f1d7e000a8743402777c72f.jpg)
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I wonder what's up with tapatalk posting ENORMOUS photos
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It looks so damn good. I usually hate RWL, but looks great in your case.
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Anyone have any idea why the Germans call a core support a front lock carrier?
It’s out of the way. New alternator apparent as claimed. Ready to keep stripping until the leaks are gone then put it back together. Gonna be cold in the morning.
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Same reason the rad panel on a Land Rover is called the breakfast.
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For real? That sounds even more made up!
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Left front axle inner cv boot is totally separated.
Rear diff has one bad axle seal.
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#naked
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191102/aec19d20339478cc261ce84c7babc60f.jpg)
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Rain delay #fail
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191103/5bde911d08d433b82219f8c04b827a35.jpg)
Doing the cam seals is a bigger job than a timing belt. Fuck.
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Sigh
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191103/c9a250c67b1f46dda92a43905aa75f5c.jpg)
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Sigh
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191103/c9a250c67b1f46dda92a43905aa75f5c.jpg)
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One head done. What a fucker.
Wheel spacers showed up. Came with proper bolts but i shire could use a DIr to chase the threads. Those hubs haven’t had proper engagement for a while apparently. The nice spline drive closed end sparco lug nuts fit too. Winning!
Hub rings didn’t make it early (all was due Monday) but I can bolt em up anyway if I want.
And I want. Because I want to be done with this timing and sealing stuff. This has to be 10 hours book labor. I’m curious.
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Could test fire right now, should be all good. Cleaned up and heading to my parents for dad’s birthday. Hopefully wrap it up tomorrow. Might take the afternoon off if work cooperates.
Probably have a total of 14-17 hours into it. I don’t find it terrible to come in at 2x book time as a nonâ€pro doing a job for the first time on a car and platform I’m not familiar with.
Took me 1/3 the time to do the chain guides on the second cam chain tensioner as the first. Total time on that side was the same thought because I had to remove the egr valve to get things apart and that was three blind and inaccessible bolts, of which I removed 4
Too me a minute to find the extra hole, but I did!
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Should have this (the belts and seals part at least - no the suspension part) wrapped up tonight.
ebay seller has gone quiet on the blown rear shocks and horrible rattle from one side.
emailed arie about parts, he did earlier confirm vendor relation.
I may make my rear lift blocks and throw the steel spring struts back in at a level stance. would be muuuuch cheaper, but no availability to gain inches of clearance at the push of a button. All depends what its capability really is on whether I care about that or not.
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Appears I fucked up something in the passenger side bank. Non catastrophic but fml.
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fawk. get to fire before past 80% re assembly?
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if it makes you feel any better, what i am going to most likely pick up Thursday is fully inspired by your shenanigans. <keepin it a secret!>
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I went to 90% assembly like a confident idiot.
I fixed that without tearing it down all the way - intake and exhaust were off by 1 tooth. The cam chain tensioner is a fooler. I have a photo of it when I was putting it together and it looks right. It threw codes and didn’t run right and I took the cover off and it was off by a tooth. Managed to pull the slave cam and tensioner and fix it. Left the belt on. I considered that an accomplishment until I finished it up, filled coolant, and had a gross leak.
Couldn’t find. Looked for hours. It was appearing at the bottom back corner of the block. I’d accidentally pulled one of two bolts on the crossover tube between the backs of the heads but that wasn’t the leak. It HAD to be the thermostat housing. Makes no sense - wrong place for it to dribble. And definitive check means FULL tear down, it’s behind the timing belt.
Pressurized system in hopes of speeding leak, and it sealed up. We’ll see if that lasts.
It’s still not running right either. Didn’t clear up with idle time nor a couple miles driven. Bank 1 is collecting misfires and sounds like a gross exhaust leak. Same bank that I was off by a tooth between cams.
Might check compression, but I have zero indication that anything touched. Did 3-4 full revolutions before firing and never any noises.
I did have to R&R the EGR valve twice (valve cover doesn’t clear, tensioner requires full removal) but it passes visual and I can’t feel any exhaust leak.
It’s even loud in the car under accel. It really sounds like an exhaust leak. I don’t get it.
Not giving up, but may have to throw to the Audi forums.
Definitely know it intimately now.
Put the tires on too. Had to trim 20 bolts
Found that out after bottoming 10 of them in the front knuckles. Hope I didn’t take too many miles off the bearings with that dumbassery.
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Exactly me
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/565053-2-7t-quot-Diesel-quot-Engine-Noise-After-Timing-Belt-and-Valve-Cover-Gasket-Replacement
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Same OP on audiworld too with resolution. Lots of folks saying lack of oil pressure in tensioner will do that, in his case the combo valve was lose. Will double check valve and if tight will pull cover again and investigate if I blocked the oil port somehow when I fixed the chain.
Good: next steps to take.
Probably shouldn’t drive it if the chain is rattling around without tension. Seems bad for all those parts.
Sounds like that chain tensioner does vary intake cam timing by bursting pressure to top or bottom. I didn’t realize but that makes sense. Why else would it be the way it is...
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had a thought: I can check chain tensioner with 2 bolts and the cam position sensor. Pull that cap in 45 seconds, if the intake cam can rock back and forth the tensioner isn't working right in spite of not setting a code. If the cam seems tight, it's almost got to be a combi valve exhaust leak in spite of not being able to find it.
I couldn't resist and drove it to work. 😍 😍 😍
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98% convinced it’s a combi valve exhaust leak. It sounds like an exhaust leak. Goes away entirely on decel until return to idle.
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if it makes you feel any better, what i am going to most likely pick up Thursday is fully inspired by your shenanigans. <keepin it a secret!>
I’m unspeakably excited to see your secret. I don’t have a clue. It can’t be an Eagle, and i don’t expect it to be a Subi, but that seems most likely. Just too normal to count as inspiration haha
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me too
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gonna be rolling with that exhaust leak for a bit, seal is a week out for anyone it seems.
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available... RAUDI isn't.
Dunno if I'll bother.
Since I know Matt will wonder - the new non-yellow Excelsior plates start their run in April '20. They are similar in look to the blue on white Empire plates.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_registration_plates_of_New_York#1966_to_present
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Personally, I refuse to give this state any more of my dollars than I have to.
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Haven’t noticed any rub since I put the fender liners in. Neat!
Ordered lower arms and left axle shaft. Be here week from Tuesday. Slap that in along with the front air struts I think.
Should do lift at the same time. Need an hour or two on lathe and 8 proper bolts.
Reduce reliability! Increase cool! Go
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Of fraud I
Lol
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can you bring my engine lift back if / when you need to use the lathe?
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Absolutely.
Was hoping I’d get things torn apart and have white Jetta ready for scrap soon. I think that’s next up on my list for tomorrow.
Confirmed exhaust leak, and found source, and repaired. This is the mounting face. I didn’t put the seal in that arrived today. I just moved the mounting tab for whatever that is behind the tube where it belongs. Both bolt holes are in the mostly soot-covered face of that egr tube.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191110/51f59327abb5938aabe3338ccfc9e46e.jpg)
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lol, I didn't wonder but that's cool to know. Totally forgot NYS will have new plates soon.
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$30 and I’ve got bluetooth to the stock head unit via cd changer connection.
Embarrassingly large amount of time though. Radio didn’t want to go back in it’s home with the harness adaptor in place so after fighting with that for too long I backed the pins out of the adaptor and shoved them in the stock harness.
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Rear brakes done after groceries and dinner. Couldn’t find my VW rear brake tool, so had to improvise. Found a bolt and washer setup that worked as good as the right tool. Eventually.
Planning to try and do the frontend tomorrow. Much bigger job, essentially a full strip.
All control arms, struts, one axle and brake pads.
Maybe voodoo on one knuckle to work around wear from old loose parts, or maybe not.
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i have had your brake tool i believe for years, and i have reminded you that at least 3 times lol
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I thought you'd given it back to me a year or 2 ago, but the most recent time I remember seeing it is when I remember you giving it to me, so maybe I forgot to bring it with me and you still have it? I wasted a fair bit of time looking for it, so you still having it in spite of my memory would make a whole lot of sense!
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A half inch bolt and some washers along with a large grinder pin spanner wrench did the trick
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i might be wrong. i despise the thing so i could have blocked it out returning it or not haha
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Left front done. Brakes, axle shaft, 4 suspension arms and replaced a bad boot on tie rod end. Rod end was easy to move, but no click. Right front hopefully before rain tomorrow. Then cooking.
Axle that was essentially bootless on the inner cv really hadn’t worn much. Barely a click. If it’s a spare for more than one corner, I’ll hang onto it - but part numbers are different for all 4 iirc. At least for each front.
Stock air bag up front goes scary low. Dead straight ahead has the tire tucked inches and into fender liner all over. Any steering angle would do body damage and remove the flare. Will add spacers soonish. Zero driving ability if anything goes wrong with air as is. Bit worse than I expected. Seems like more relative uptravel than the rear has when flat.
Hoping for no issues so I don’t have to swap shocks back right away. Shouldn’t be too bad to do if I need to.
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And hopefully I don’t forget to hook up the sway bar. Didn’t align well enough to put on w one corner in the air.
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sounds like a PITA and potential trouble down the road.
Why not convert the air suspension to coils?
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It already was on coils when I bought it, done very wrong. I figured I’d try it as the Germans intended as my first effort on un fucking it before I give up.
Took me a little while to get ride Heights adjusted where I wanted them, all set and just did a nice test drive. Appears to be full success… For now
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Fronts leak down overnight. Soap spray showed no bubbles at the struts. I blame Molter.
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boo! hiss!!
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lmao
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https://www.ebay.com/i/192039715855?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=192039715855&targetid=596465996108&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9051644&poi=&campaignid=6470719577&mkgroupid=81597521270&rlsatarget=pla-596465996108&abcId=1140476&merchantid=114697491&gclid=Cj0KCQiAz53vBRCpARIsAPPsz8XQG8XAgJT0QSxwGIa-e5qAZtCnlVANhFtf9r87Tk7k7p33KI3T4qQaAjD4EALw_wcB
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Noted a little loose feeling.
Jacked up the rear, and the reportedly seized toe adjuster on the left rear is loose. Nice!
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That's the best fix!
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Picked up a little vibe ~45mph on the way home last night. Getting a bit worse on the way in today. Stopped to check for a loose wheel. Nothing noted in a parking lot where shake.
I’m thinking it could be a driveshaft or axle joint maybe. Present under accel, not under neutral or coast. Gotta get it up and look at it.
Due for oil change anyway.
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Ordered lower arms and left axle shaft. Be here week from Tuesday. Slap that in along with the front air struts I think.
right front axle shaft seems to be my issue. boot is split, has a bit of click/play. Driveshaft is all good and rear axle shafts feel good.
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The last 15 minutes of the 1:10 home from work today were fantastic.
â¤ï¸ï¸ Quattro
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Pulled in for gross coolant leak that showed up last time I went to drive it, which may have been to go to Jeff's party a month ago or so? Flat dead battery, it's 2 years old and has never had any issue at all.
Went through the underside closely and have a sorta long list. Bad CV boot, bad axle seal on rear diff, oil leak. Bah. Need to tip the nose out to 'service position' to dig into thermostat housing to see if it's an o-ring or a cracked plastic housing causing the leak.
If the plastic is knackered, I believe this is the correct metal replacement. noted for self
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/thermostat-replacement-kit/07812112jkt4/
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parts car?
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/737987436897000/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-8174540676047838755%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%2230663935260923799%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A30663935260923799%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A35%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A3610322540917948416%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A501%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A1.212410124141e-5%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3A108%7D%22%7D
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Impressed me today, and Sarah enjoyed. If there’s any action pics, they’re on her camera.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210904/406f44df87c7e753b511587f28bb2e61.jpg)
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Moved around 4-5 times since Attica trip.
Left key on yesterday and batter went flat. Would not start. Charged and disconnected. Started once and then won’t restart.
Consistent codes:
2 Faults Found:
17800 - Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 2 (G163)
P1392 - 35-00 - Open Short to Plus
17745 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
P1337 - 35-00 - Short to Ground
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audi / VW so fun with dead batteries!
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bolts backed out, sensor broken. hell of a coincidence!
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found a ton of fuel all over the injectors from cranking. have new o-rings coming too.
I know I have EVAP issues, would be nice if I can nail that down and get the MIL off for a sticker someday.
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Injector o rings was a pretty easy job. Fuel rails are one unit with a bunch of extra claptrap piping. All fixed on those fuel leaks.
New sensor installed. Same codes. Really long crank time (didn’t count it off, has to be 2 seconds or more when it’s always been more like 3 revolutions) but it least it starts every time now.
Didn’t note any wiring damage but I guess I need to dig deeper :(
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Long crank to start and run. Guess it’s good enough-ish. Will disconnect sensors and see if codes change.
Water neck swap next week for fall color run. It’s dumping coolant again for fun. Confirmed source.
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Water neck swapped. Fully risky move to shortcut pulling alternator and bracket by pulling timing belt off of passenger camshaft. It was fine.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211009/3cafa2f284ad7e32c2f2104fd37429d3.jpg)
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Both cam sensors confirmed getting 4.97v at the plugs sure seems like that isn’t “shorted”
I suppose I should check resistance across the pins on the sensors
I don’t have a perfect means to backprobe or to scope the signal wire of the Hall effect sensors but these codes don’t seem to say no signal.
Hmm.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211023/aa0da6497049d4436c15ad45e364f6f7.jpg)
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Duh.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211023/24a682c9d15a4c57f83a920d2b90c4fa.jpg)
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eww
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Throwing constant suspension codes on the way to work today after airing up fine last night.
Was really fun to run around Attica which does need the adjustable height. So that’s once used in 2? years
May be time to just abandon the air.
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$25 and 30m job to put new seal in the compressor. part will be here friday. if that works I'm good with it.
will get that, and further testing on windshield squirts while it's in the air. washer resi access is through driver front fender liner.
new axle shaft delivered today too. this one nowhere near as bad as the TDI wagon so that's less emergency. that unit got parked last week for fear of axle explosion.
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Was probably 75-90 min job. Annoying to remove. Swapping the worn out piston seal once it was out was like 2 min.
Seems much much much better.
Pressure doesn’t go any mugger. All the way up to highest level the system pressure was still only 135ish.
Pulled the cam sensor that was still throwing codes. Destroyed.
Found 2 magnets (should have been 1) in the remains of the cup that the sensor reads. So parts were missed when I replaced the sensor last time. Little tin cup is a long wait and 4x the price it seems it should be. Oh well.
Looked at windshield washer. Pump is bad. Also not getting power though. Wiring diagrams for that system are confusing and colors don’t match what’s in the car. May just rewire to a dedicated pushbutton if I can’t figure that out, after checking the fuses and fuse block for an 8th time. The old pump was dead short so it should have blown the fuse.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211121/2956125253a5a036f5ed9bd656298aed.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211121/41157462a00436216517577431526825.jpg)
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Axle shaft done, camshaft position sensor done, squirts work with the new pump installed - rear seems to be missing a nozzle. meh
airs up real quick now.
ready for snow commutes
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Left rear outer bad cv boot spotted while changing rear shocks. Next axle on deck I guess ¯\_(?)_/¯
Seems loud going down to road lately. Should start throwing wheel bearings at it. No distinct corner. Sounds like tire noise and I guess it could be, but I suspect not.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220102/7ab3214381514c9844e213e0b20c951a.jpg)
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Luck ran out on no inspections today. Trooper on 5&20 spotted lack of sticker and ran plates. Asked how long I’ve been getting away with this, with genuine curiosity. He knew the date on this one from running the plate. I didn’t share how many others of mine are the same. I suspect he could see that in tracs if he wanted to under other registered vehicles…
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they are bastards on 5&20 i got pulled over twice in Lima in the IH with a red sticker this year.
The RAM got read by a plate reader in Batavia and he was confused by a blue sticker when his display said last inspected 8/2020 ::) played dumb, got a print out and got let out of that one also lol
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I got a ticket in naples Friday for expired inspection from a trooper while driving Sara's honda. It expired in November.. I had not noticed.
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bad valve cover seal likely contributing to clutch failure. not sure if clutch will get better after valve cover seal replacement or not. nearly impossible to see back there. RPM just flares all the time even in low gears, it's still drivable but I suspect not for long. It's not in shape to do a poker run, that's for sure. clutch is no small job, unfortunately.
if I want to keep it and be fun I should upgrade turbos while it is out, and reseal everything, and get a smoke machine and take care of SAI and evap issues so it has a prayer of passing inspection.
has shown me a blinking MIL a couple times a minute after cold start, haven't pulled codes to see what for yet. my bet is cam phaser something.
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cool! No evap codes!
Tuesday,01,February,2022,20:58:38:62508
VCDS Version: Release 21.9.0 (x64) Running on Windows 7 x64
www.Ross-Tech.com
Address 01: Engine Labels: 078-907-551-AZA.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4Z7 907 551 S
Component and/or Version: 2.7L V6/5VT G 0020
Software Coding: 07715
Work Shop Code: WSC 08259
Additional Info: WA1YD64B83N005101 AUZ7Z0B2162515
VCID: 53AF0510A1016411AC-5178
12 Faults Found:
17831 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 1
P1423 - 35-00 - Insufficient Flow
17819 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 2
P1411 - 35-00 - Insufficient Flow
19718 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2 / B2 S2 Connections Swapped
P3262 - 35-00 -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - Intermittent
16685 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16688 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
16690 - Cylinder 6
P0306 - 35-10 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
17863 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235)
P1455 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17584 - Bank1: O2 (Lambda) Correction Behind Catalyst
P1176 - 35-00 - Control Limit Reached
17585 - Bank2: O2 (Lambda) Correction Behind Catalyst
P1177 - 35-00 - Control Limit Reached
Readiness: 0000 0101
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Readiness shows 2 no go: catalytics an evap
I already tried a spark plug antifouler to space the sensors out. at 192k it may need catalytics to pass without further "adjustment"
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Considering TDI swapping this and sincerely making a forever car of this…
Solves the “why two wagons” question I’ve been asking myself for two years.
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ignoring your nuts with the lines of projects you have, doesnt that sound annoying for inspection?
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Considering TDI swapping this and sincerely making a forever car of this…
Nothing is a forever car in NY :-\
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true, but it's essentially rust free now so that's a 7-10 year car...
it would be emissions compatible, should be able to get proper vin and fuel type in computer. though I do know it's a different computer between the two. plug compatible but some pin differences. other things to look into.
but with catalytic codes and needing a clutch and evap issues... ¯\_(?)_/¯
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ordered an expensive clutch for this guy. probably drive it this winter otherwise as-is. hopefully code out or fool the catalytic issue so I can get it stickered. smoke machine should find the evap and SAI issues, I'm sure they are patchable.
ought to be a stupid hassle.
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Interstate had a blem correct battery for this. it's a bit fit critical so that's good. nice that they're still $60.
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well price went up from everyone i have ever bought at 50 from them.
im at 4 failures of last 8 batteries from them in less than 2 years, not great record.
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I just used that same battery for winching onto your trailer. Good start by my book.
I seem to ruin 5 batteries per year so cheaper the better