M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: M4wdFab on January 16, 2012, 09:48:46 AM
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8.8 swap completed
Driverside Motor mount replaced
Trans swap tomorrow.
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she is drying off in the shop!
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what a pile, this thing won like rounds 1-3 so far
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Is the transmission in neutral? When I did my truck I did not have it in neutral and the stick would go in fine but it just would not shift. I had to pull the stick out and shift it by hand into neutral them everything worked good. Just curious if that is your problem
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ill try that first but im gona say that should not matter at all as long as the stick is put in properly. i had to have fucked up putting in the main fork i blame matt for worrying about where RTV was when i was putting on the back half of the case!
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My truck stick goes in the exact same there is no way to put it in "properly" just put it in.
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this ax5 is a ball that goes into a socket.... you really cant f it up....
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NV4500 and RTOO9513 both have the stick go through into the actual shift forks, if it's not in N it's somewhere between a total bitch and impossible to get it placed right.
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Warming up for a I told ya so
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better get a good blanket
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Told ya so!!!
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nope, main fork was put in wrong....
nothing to do with the shifter because i already knew that.
road tested and good to go.
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Told ya so!!!
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nick, hope folding your blanket wasnt too hard for your candy ass last night.
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:-*
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Shifted flawlessly even with 10w30 test oil in it. It now has Redline MTL (best oil for AX5/AX15 in the cold weather in my opinion) and there is NO grinding even when cold. Got a sweet deal on it at Emerson Oil on Lyle Ave.
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http://www.rc4x4.org/rcforum/index.php/topic,16614.0.html
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Anyone in the crew with two lockers have trouble with wearing out motor mounts faster than normal due to added stress on the mounts? If so, did you go with aftermarket mounts like Brown Dog, etc. ?
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I put aftermarket mounts in my TJ when I had it, they are nice just for added security of know you wont break them. If you need to replace them, then aftermarket ones are the way to go.
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I am wondering if mine are on their way out.. my tranny shifter is still moving side to side a lot even after replacing the trans mount.
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I am wondering if mine are on their way out.. my tranny shifter is still moving side to side a lot even after replacing the trans mount.
That's exactly what mine does! My shifter moves almost 4-5" side to side when I'm in the rocks. Hopefully nothing breaks this weekend at 4x4 101.
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Gotta lot of stuff to do on this pile before I can wheel hard again:
-Front motor mounts
-New rear leaf spring bushing
-Change out rear driveshaft to old longer one and put conversion joint in, new t case output seal on slip yoke
-Move exhaust output location so that it doesn't melt my leaf spring bushing ::)
-New 33" tires
-Rear diff cover and fluid change
-Remove body lift and have mounts redone on pass side (M4)
-New sway bar bushings
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find out why the front pinion moves up and down 1/4"
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find out why the front pinion moves up and down 1/4"
Pinion bearings? Should be HP front being YJ so no crush sleeve to loosen up, right? Mine did the same thing, pinion flopping all over. Good times replacing them and setting the depth in my parent's lawn.
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And of course, how could I forget Nick's pinion bearing experience. Hopefully you can find the bearings Haha
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Gotta lot of stuff to do on this pile before I can wheel hard again:
-Front motor mounts
-New rear leaf spring bushing
-Change out rear driveshaft to old longer one and put conversion joint in, new t case output seal on slip yoke
-Move exhaust output location so that it doesn't melt my leaf spring bushing ::)
-New 33" tires
-Rear diff cover and fluid change
-Remove body lift and have mounts redone on pass side (M4)
-New sway bar bushings
-Front pinion bearing
-Acquire spare TJ front axle shafts
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Putting some newly acquired Rubicon Express extreme duty front leaf springs on this piece today. Pulled the guy who was working at A&A out of a Montage Mountain mud hole awhile back and he decided to give me the dealer price. Sweet!
Broke my 8.5ish year old Trailmaster pass side main leaf wreck wheeling on Sunday after RCQ. A fallen tree was precision cut via shitty hatchet to wedge between the frame and the D30 to keep the vehicle upright. My winch, two ratchet straps, and a bungee cord kept it semi-located for the drive back to the parking lot with periodic adjustments. Oh I forgot it was being pulled by a JK (details). Lol
Tried taking my third steering stabilizer off while I was under the vehicle last night but the cotter pin is so mangled on the castle nut that it WILL NOT come out. Debating on cutting it off. I am 90% sure it is dead weight haha.
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how'd you get home? guess those springs were really tired of life, huh?
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AAA got me home. Only reason I drive to Rausch is that the trip home is 93 miles. The first 100 miles are free so I get in by the skin of my teeth! First time I had to be towed out of Rausch though which is surprising.
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Updated to do list:
-Stronger motor mounts (M4 possibly)
-Install new rear leaf spring bushing
-Install other new front leaf spring on
-Change out rear driveshaft to old longer one and put conversion joint in, new t case output seal on slip yoke
-Move exhaust output location so that it doesn't melt my leaf spring bushing ::)
-Better 33" tires
-Remove body lift and have mounts redone on pass side (M4 possibly)
-New sway bar bushings
-Eliminate front pinion slop
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I have a 1" poly Body mount kit i didnt use if your interested..
also a set of body gap rubber...
killer deal on both
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I have a 1" poly Body mount kit i didnt use if your interested..
also a set of body gap rubber...
killer deal on both
Sweet I actually want to remove my 2 inch poly body lift and just use the stock rubber. What do you mean by body gap rubber? I was also thinking of using stock ride height poly mounts (prolly would be best but may ride rough).
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...may ride rough.
Do they ride any other way? :-X
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Vehicle NVH is out of hand on the passenger side (all the body mounts pushed through the tub when I went off the road at 40 mph and down an embankment :-[). Anything would be an improvement at this point so I guess you may have a point. Although I'd like to get it back to a tolerable point so everything counts! Haha
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body lifts dont effect ride all that much
its bad springs and cheap shocks... (but leaf springs in general will do it)
gap fillers are basically extended guards for the fedners to cover "unsightly gaps made by body lifts"
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body lifts dont effect ride all that much
its bad springs and cheap shocks... (but leaf springs in general will do it)
gap fillers are basically extended guards for the fedners to cover "unsightly gaps made by body lifts"
Oh I already have those and won't need them soon when I eliminate the body lift. Body mounts definitely affect NVH that's crazy talk. lol
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ride and NVH are slightly distinct...
and I think your priorities ought to be adjusted if that is an ordered list
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Technical terms aside my Jeep vibrates much worse due to the damaged body mounts. I know this because when I turn to the right on the highway it stops vibrating (bad mounts are on passenger side) lol and it rode great before it took the dive off of the road
And yeah list is in no particular order. Just trying to check as many things off as I can.
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Body mounts just transmit vibration.. They have no effect on ride comfort..
Body roll and piss poor handling is due to driving something with 4 leaves that's beat to hell..
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Body mounts just transmit vibration.. They have no effect on ride comfort..
Body roll and piss poor handling is due to driving something with 4 leaves that's beat to hell..
I'm not talking about handling or body roll. I'm simply stating I have more vibration while driving due to broken/nonexisting body mounts. When actually installed properly, the rubber acts as a damper in the metal to rubber to metal connection. Rigid metal transmits vibration. Soft rubber does not, it absorbs it. What's the point of the rubber then in a body mount or even an engine mount? Why not just mount the body or engine rigidly to the frame then? You wouldn't do that because you'd transmit a ton of bad vibes across the connection. These types of connections need vibration dampening and "give" to absorb the energy created when driving, otherwise it gets transmitted to unwanted areas.
http://energysuspension.com/products/body-mounts.html
"Soft enough for a smooth ride..."
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Also I'm sick of talking about the body mounts on this pile. The issue will be attacked soon so I can have an improved smoother ride, lower ride height, and no more fawking gangster lean. ;D
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-Stronger motor mounts
-Change out rear driveshaft to old longer one and put conversion joint in, new t case output seal on slip yoke
-Better/new 33" tires
-Remove body lift and install new OEM rubber mounts
-Install new sway bar bushings
-Eliminate front pinion slop
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No more lean but how will I know is your jeep coming down the road?
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Update:
-Change out rear driveshaft to old longer one and put conversion joint in.
-New t case output seal on slip yoke
-Remove body lift and install new OEM rubber mounts
-Install new sway bar bushings
Poly Trans mount ordered
33" tires ordered
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My rear bed mount is getting as bad as your rear tub mount!
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RIGHTCOAST4X4: yj parts (by cc89iroc)
http://www.rightcoast4x4.com/forumz/viewtopic.php?p=56869#p56869
running 4.2 from a 89 yj with new motorcraft carb 250.00
95 yj tub no rust no title, has dent in cowl 250.00
d30/35 combo 200
in east greenville 484-948-5964
Share via Tapatalk
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Reportedly already spoken for and "gone"
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Found what was causing that t case leak. Broken rear extension housing.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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BTDT... Several times.
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twill happen again without a SYE
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Yeah took 175,000 miles to have it's first Issue. 75,000 of them with big tires. Meh prolly should still look into an sye.
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Putting Lucas stabilizer in this thing tonight. Heard good and bad things about the stuff.
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In the engine that is.
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i wouldnt bother...
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Have used it in auto trans all the time,I believed it helps, brother had good luck with the stuff that goes in the oil
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i wouldnt bother...
I'm a believer in their engine oil additive. It only matters when things go wrong though.
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nothing thicker than regular motor oil is meant to go into a crankcase...
I have seen it in some cases CAUSE oil leaks due to the increase in oil pressure...
all these motor honey or lucas engine oil treatments just mask for at least a while a problem that is overdue..
they make a great product.. the whole line of lucas is the only stuff I use in anything... EXCEPT the engine oil stabilizer...
its a ghetto fix... as long as you know that going in, use away... and just be sure to buy it form Nu Way!!!
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Your logic is flawed. On a older engine there is wear that a thicker oil will help keep lubricated. on a new engine I would not use it. But on a Jeep with 150k it's will help quiet down lifters and stick to parts better for less noise and harm at start up.
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The yota always get a quart!
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engine oil treatments just mask for at least a while a problem that is overdue..
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its a ghetto fix... as long as you know that going in, use away...
Argument is sound.... Agree or disagree....
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prolongs rapped LS motors
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all these motor honey or lucas engine oil treatments just mask for at least a while a problem that is overdue..
On a 100% street truck I agree. On an offroad motor that may lose oil pressure occasionally I'm in favor. Cheap insurance and a lot cheaper than dry sump.
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Replacement?
http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=19019.0
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moogs look annoying to race
killer buggy though
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Portals don't do well racing. Too much extra leverage to put up with the abuse.
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Karl doesn't have axle issues...
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Jeep is not doing so well right now:
Spit cap in front axle joint
Broken shock
Bent shock mount
Stuck in 4wd
Was wondering when the next opening is.
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Trailer balls! ;D
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Guess it was a good thing you didn't wheel Sunday...
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Trans mount was broken and whole drive train moved to the side thus causing stuck 4wd condition. New poly mount went in last night. Main body of the Transfer case had a crack. Smike was a really big help in splitting the cases and piecing things together.
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Jeep is used up
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I'm sorry that title is taken you'll have to find another.
How the fuck do you keep breaking tcases? Oh, no sye yet right? Do you think this crack was the cause of the ongoing leak after the last repair, or a new thing?
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buy my 4:1 case... SYE already there...
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i have an h&t sye that i probably wont use. text me if you want it.
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those only work on later XJ cases bc of oil seals and lenght
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used up Jr?
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used up Jr?
better.
apparently the cool kids follow in my footsteps? :o
(http://images.paraorkut.com/img/pics/glitters/s/screaming-7365.gif)
ITS NOT TOO LATE TO SAVE YOURSELVES!
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those only work on later XJ cases bc of oil seals and lenght
true. i have everything you need to convert an isy to esy.
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SAVE YOURSELVES!
How? Give up and build a buggy now?
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his plan is to fix the leaks and get her to daily winter status, then build a buggy.
i think the case broke because of the added drive line angle and abuse in devils den
the an sye or CV rear would fix for good.
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I'm sorry that title is taken you'll have to find another.
How the fuck do you keep breaking tcases? Oh, no sye yet right? Do you think this crack was the cause of the ongoing leak after the last repair, or a new thing?
crack was the cause of the ongoing leak after the last repair
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his plan is to fix the leaks and get her to daily winter status, then build a buggy.
i think the case broke because of the added drive line angle and abuse in devils den
the an sye or CV rear would fix for good.
Yes there was added driveline angle when the trans mount broke but the leak was present before that. Missed it. Face palm. Def need an sye.
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Took this thing out yesterday and it drives like a "dream" haha (could be someone else's nightmare)
New Poly trans mount fixed a lot of the driveline vibes at high speed. The "random driveline grinding noise" is gone. Slop is gone too (obviously). Put new/used $8 ds axle shaft in.
T case is now free of leaks as well.
Engine oil pressure restored with some Lucas stabilizer.
New clutch is the new go/no go decision. loathe the current unit.
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ya, your clutch does suck i will vouge for that.
i noticed no leaks today in the lot!
grinding noise was probably shaft on muffler!
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Not so "used up" anymore?
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"lean two"
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I like it
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Need a front 6.5" lift shock lol
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To do list for 101:
1. Switch out vulced baja claw (with a big dry rotted lump in it now.., Jared!) with spare
2. Fix broken trans mount bolt
3. Reconnect all exhaust :(
4. Install front new/used front driveshaft
5. T case fluid check, she's leaking AGAIN!
6. Check front and rear diffs
7. Hook CB up
8. Ignore rear frame rot ;)
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How big is the bulge? 1/2-3/4" is normal(sticking out from sidewall, length can be a few inches). The fill rubber always ozone cracks faster, if its not more than 1 or 2/ 32" I'd run it. That's cosmetic. Deeper than that though I'd inspect to make sure the patch isn't compromised.
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I'll upload a pic. Looks not runnable.
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Needs some love for late summer cruises!
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the rear spring hanger is just plain cool on this thing