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Author Topic: 1973 CJ6  (Read 92218 times)

JEEPWERX

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #660 on: July 21, 2015, 10:38:24 AM »
With other things working randomly says short to ground or bad ground to me.

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rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #661 on: July 21, 2015, 10:46:43 AM »
I'm thinking ground as well unless TPS shorted when harness got HOT...
my ground block is easy enough to check and might run Howell ground strap directly to battery post

Parking light issue should in theory be a bad switch.. all lights grounded to chassis and power gets distributed from Switch..  easy enough to test....

Horn is a bit more dicey...
several "contacts" are involved to close the circuit..
column to column tube and button to contact ring..

Im planning on stripping the loom where the "melt down" occurred and check wire integrity more carefully..
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rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #662 on: July 28, 2015, 02:13:54 PM »
Some follow up:

-after some hunting I was able to located the correct TPS for the Howell and that cleared the CEL
-I pulled my headlight switch and replaced the spade terminals with the stock electrical connector.. parking lights working
-Horn brush needs to be reworked/remade.. but I have a functional circuit

Ran into a bit of an issue today on the Hwy..

I experienced an engine shut down in +90 deg heat.
engine running a cool 200 deg and nice airflow at 60 MPH..

Fuel cut to the TBI..
I'm assuming at this point is was FP related since after I pulled over and waited 5 min I was able to start engine again with no CEL or poor running.

I know vapor lock in theory with fuel under pressure is not possible, but that what it felt like..
didn't get a chance to jump under Jeep and touch FP or lines, but I think there is a decent amount of heat under there...

Anybody run into an issue like this?
I'm running a Howell TBI on my 360, external fuel pump that came with the Howell Kit...
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I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #663 on: July 28, 2015, 02:34:01 PM »
14psi return system, check what ever vents the fuel cell is good. or when you get home after a drive take off the gas cap right away. if it goes whooooosh! you have your problem. 
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rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #664 on: July 28, 2015, 02:41:41 PM »
I did fill up this morning...  if it makes a difference
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I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #665 on: July 28, 2015, 02:52:51 PM »
it would be more of a problem with full tank of gas if you have blocked vent- yes.   smaller vapor pocket to be pulled to overcomming pressure of the pump faster as the engine burns fuel that is basically not compressible...
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mr.mindless

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #666 on: July 28, 2015, 04:37:01 PM »
Quote from: M4wdFab on July 28, 2015, 02:52:51 PM
it would be more of a problem with full tank of gas if you have blocked vent- yes.   smaller vapor pocket to be pulled to overcomming pressure of the pump faster as the engine burns fuel that is basically not compressible...

100%

what's your tank vent situation? Is it a vented cap or something fancier with vapor recovery and emissions stuff and all that?

Where is the fuel pump? Everything from the tank to the pump is under vacuum and could vapor lock - the impossibility only applies to an in-tank submerged pump
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rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #667 on: July 29, 2015, 09:45:43 AM »
Took a short ride from my house to Pittsford plaza.
Engine was room temp.. 
With sushi order and getting cold tempura, Another no start.
Solved by a few min wait, some cursing, and the security truck asking if I needed a jump.

I can rule out pump overheating.   
pump kicked on with ignition cycling.

I released the fuel cap when I got to plaza, no rush of air.
My current vent situation however, has something to be desired
lets just say my vent is via the cap only...
going to be working on a solution



Fuel pump is well out of the way and should have good air flow..
Mounted nice and tight, don't see any BIG issue there...




I am getting some fuel sweat here.  I think this was done with my old flare tool and I might need to re-flare the fittings..
some heat shielding or fuel line insulation here is prob a must..
also will prob shield the lines from the frame to throttle body...
Might be obsessing a bit here, but if I can make it run right in this weather I wont have a problem again..

This Jeep runs hot.. everything is jut warm/hot to the touch..
granted its 90 deg outside, but the 360 runs where it should at 200 deg and aluminum from what 6th grade science tells me is a good conductor of heat..
« Last Edit: July 29, 2015, 09:49:48 AM by rejeep »
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I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

M4wdFab

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #668 on: July 29, 2015, 09:54:28 AM »
one thing at a time.  You have half the battle beat as your problem is consistent!

Next drive- leave the gas cap loose or off and see if it repeats.  you may just have a non vented gas cap.  most of them just vent pressure not vacuum.   I had this problem on my cummins truck because someone swapped a gas truck gas cap to it.  heaving towing non stop id get the wooooosh when going to fuel! 



also- sweat?   like condensation or fuel leakage?
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rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #669 on: July 29, 2015, 10:07:44 AM »
Quote from: M4wdFab on July 29, 2015, 09:54:28 AM
also- sweat?   like condensation or fuel leakage?

Leakage 99% sure..
before I got my hydraulic flare tool I did the rear fittings.. 
the copper line is easier to flare, but IMO less forgiving to a bad flare.

going to vent the tank and fix flare. 
I don't think some heat shielding in that area from axle to transfer case is a bad idea..
might be a good idea in the engine compartment as well where it passes by manifolds.
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I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

mr.mindless

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #670 on: July 29, 2015, 10:10:34 AM »
you have a fuel pressure gauge?

pump sound normal when it's giving you a no-start or does it sound starved?

Is you cap actually vented? I'm sure you're aware that modern gasoline caps intended for use with vapor recovery systems are sealed (easy way to collapse a Cummins tank & fuel lines is to put a gasser fuel cap on it)
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mr.mindless

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #671 on: July 29, 2015, 10:10:56 AM »
oh man, jinx
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rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #672 on: August 06, 2015, 09:03:41 AM »
...update...

ran 2 vent lines up into the wheel well and zip tied to the turn signal...
No further staling issues...

Vapor canister and check valve next...


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I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

rejeep

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #673 on: August 10, 2015, 09:55:33 AM »
While I have been addressing my fuel vapor issue I decided to tackle a few other odds and ends that need some attention and adjustment.

I haven't been happy with my hyd clutch setup..
Clutch works fine, but I feel its not operation at 100% efficiency.
With consistent driving I have a noticed a small drop in fluid, but no external leaks from the system. I purchased a kit way back when from This Guy and have been generally happy with it..

I decided on swapping my MC and Slave for "better" units, often these kits use generic quality rebuilds. I did notice however when I was pulled the slave that there is some play in the pushrod to the fork. Is there a rule of thumb on how long the pushrod needs to be? When in the compressed position should I be able to move the clutch fork, or should this be a rather ridged connection?
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I never wanted a red car.. always thought they were tacky and common...
I now have 4 very not common cars and they are all red.. :o

mr.mindless

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Re: 1973 CJ6
« Reply #674 on: August 10, 2015, 04:37:25 PM »
There should be a little play at the clutch fork with the pedal all the way out, otherwise you've got load on the throwout all the time - if I'm understanding your question right.
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