M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: M4wdFab on November 10, 2023, 06:09:13 PM
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started gathering parts
superduty axles
07 ecotec 2.2
link material and heims ordered
rear steer valve came in today
have a list and a plan
budget build, rear stear transaxle, 39 redlabels (to start)
single seat moon buggy, light, simple. trail rig.
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Nice
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1st oversight... no power steering pump provision on 2007 2.2
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Electric boosted column might be useful in something else but that’s annoying.
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Electric pump
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Electric boosted column might be useful in something else but that’s annoying.
i was thinking the jacks on my trailer lol
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shell scrapped, netted 160$ back of the 600 i paid for the 2007 cobalt. 2 cats added to cat pile if prices ever go back up... pathetic right now
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rear engine or front engine? American or British driver position? :P
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first glance looks like mid engine and left hand drive single seat.
guy had family ER emergency this morning so i didnt get to pick up my second superduty axle as scheduled out by my mom
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4 links front and rear, all 38" is long
plan is links, subframe, axles, steering, drive shafts will all be symetrical / mirror image front/rear.
engine will be off set on right side, with transmission in center with ouputs point to front left diff and rear right diff.
fill the seat, cell, rad in where there is room, tube over top, wheel.
single ended 10" rams for 50 degree steering, leaving superduty tie rods ect for now
had thoughts to try and do pinion brakes but on the transaxle end, and remove all the superduty calipers/rotors but not seeing a way to execute that relistate wise up front (legs in way)
the fuel pressure is PWM'd on these things o need to deal with that... Fuel pump module scrapped with shell. hoping to use a corvette 58psi filter reg instead and run it
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wiring info gathered/stolen
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I’d leave brakes on the axle ends and mount a second caliper for cutting.
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spools and no center diff /disconnect so no reason for corner brakes
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The "MN5" 4T45E auto 4 speed trans
Gear ratios:
1 2 3 4 R
2.95 1.62 1.00 0.68 2.14
Applications:
final drive ratio 3.63:1
2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt
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welding the "diff" in the auto is more of a project than i was hoping.... F me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zM2YdBBGCs
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https://www.justanswer.com/chevy/29eqh-pcm-wiring-diagram-2007-cobalt.html
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welding the "diff" in the auto is more of a project than i was hoping.... F me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zM2YdBBGCs
That looks awful.
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wired and plumbed on the K member this morning and strapped to the RAM to run out to Johns and pull VATS from the computer this afternoon. fingers crossed its happy with no Fuel pressure control module connected and a corvette 58psi filter reg.
runs and stalls as it should with VATS enabled and good OBD communication right now.
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is VATS the gm immobilizer?
yes it is. Vehicle Anti Theft System.
sounds like progress, but Ryan is right. that looks pretty damn awful.
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sucess with john, all well with my wiring mods. enabled power enrichment @2500rpm so should be boost ready anytime
SD axle weighed in at 558lbs
ecotec, trans, kmember, battery, 2.5gal tank, ect 630 lbs lol
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harness fully trimmed down, all excess wires pulled, re loomed, cleaned up to 3 wires, obd, gas petal.
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If the case cracked with an open diff, how well will it do "locked"?
welding the "diff" in the auto is more of a project than i was hoping.... F me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zM2YdBBGCs
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unknown. lots of derby guys use these things so should be fine.
still working out a few of the design ideas
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Cool! I love the concept of symmetrical suspension setup/links.
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welding the "diff" in the auto is more of a project than i was hoping.... F me
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zM2YdBBGCs
That looks awful.
took me 4 hours including welding the diff and letting it cool for a half hour
wasn't too bad, transmissions are fun. i would feel fully confident in rebuilding one now.
only fail was snapping a starter motor termanal (after heat and PB) and having to torch out speed sensor (rusted brittle seized plastic).
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just found this guys old build thread, using same exact transaxle.
pirate adds are painful but he goes into detail about fighting transaxle c clips. he even cut a window into the side of the transmission housing lol.
I was going to ignore this and say it would be fine, but i guess not now. going back to thinking about 4bolt bearing retaining flange and something to hang a rotors before a driveline flange to delete corner brakes also.
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https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/my-transverse-engine-trans-buggy-build.1237674/#replies
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going to try D30 unit bearings, stub shaft, rotor and see how packaging looks.
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pirate adds are painful
use Brave browser. It blocks ads. Also blocks ads in youtube videos.
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realized i have lots of ford 8.8 pinions, flanges, yokes, and 1350 super duty shafts. should be able to size a 4 bolt bearing flange and adapt to transaxle cup to retain, and support, 1350 drive shaft CVs will be nice also.
think i have ditched the pinion brake idea... dont these things usually get water/steel shot in the tires anyway lol, i guess that weight will help on the corners
stared at a TC pump today, decided not worth 150$ in my time to not order the CBR bracket on ebay that bolts on.
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engine alone weighed in at 300lbs
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worked on some output ideas today
Ford8.8 pinion
cobalt CV flange cut down
1.5" 4 bolt flange bearing (not shown)
Ford 8.8 flange
should be able to use ujoints or Superduty 1350 cv shafts
some lathe work, press work, welded.
need another pinion and would like a 3rd to make a spare
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like the 8.8 flange idea. 8)
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from the reading i did, looks like pulling out cv shafts is the biggest down fall of using the trans axle.
these arent really rated as a thrust bearing, but i think they will be fine. two 1.5" showed up today. need to make some mounting plates and then start building an engine cradle, sub frame.
link material and heims here next week.
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picked up a pair of air shocks from troy today and also 2 more 30 spline pinions to make transaxle outputs for free, guy reached out in gates thats part of a gear setup FB group when i posted up looking for some.
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2nd failed attempt at sealing the trans pan, i guess i need a new pan and an oem gasket. bah!
front 60 hubs and rotors broke down, rotors turned, wheel adaptors and 39s mounted.
lathe set up and 1 link done
need to dig my chassis table out from the back of the other side of barn. that was PPP.
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subframe/skid/HDPE done today
2 of 3 motor motor/trans mounts done
links and lots of measurements firmed up to start burning tabs and running tube soon.
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lower links mounted to chassis sub
picking up rear stear axle tomorrow morning!
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when did you get the plasma table?
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this little one has been passed around a few guys in the club. mikemike ended up with it, and hadent got it up and running yet so i grabbed it to get it going and its on loan. i had been looking for one for a while, and the learning and process will transfer to when i find a deal on a bigger one.
just picked it up friday, only have a day into it so far.
2nd superduty 60 axle picked up and another 1350 front CV drive shaft
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2nd steer axle de bracketed today
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decisions were made today first stick of tube down
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picked up some hardware and 2 hydro rams at Runnings today. Joe bringing me home more air shocks and an orbital from Ohio Market place finds while we was on a work training trip this week.
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need to make some decisions for the shape of this thing pretty soon.
anyone have some input feel free to MS paint away for some ideas lol
the 4 vertical chassis bars are kinda set where they need to be for link mounts and head room up front. dont really plan to have tube past the shock mounts that will be over the axles and tipped in both ways towards center of car a bit.
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With your long legs aren't your feet gonna be out past the front tires or your knees up high?
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feet / petals will be just over the front axle tube
need to plan out the exhaust header to get the set positioned.
the other problem, entry/exit not really optimal. might be Atom style enter though front!
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5 port orbital with power beyond procured
(4) 16" fox air shocks procured
not much progress this week on it yet. other issues and chaos on the home front!
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2.0 fox air shocks 16” Stroke - Fill 400cc
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cant find a drawing for 2.2 ecotec / Z22SE exhaust flange.
boo.
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pulled the exhaust maifold today after finishing up the links on front axle.
monkeying around here in effort to make more room for the seat, exhaust is close to where i want to be.
also started learning about what i need to add turbo setup since i think i need to make my own manifold.
looks like for 350$ on ebay i can get turbo/w gate, oil lines, intercooler, charge piping and clamps, mech boost controller valve, mech gage, BOV valve, BOV 2.5" flange, 2bar? MAP sensor from ecotec turbo application.
should be able to draw up an exhaust flange and a T4 flange to cut out on the plasma table.
thinking on that over Christmas. already approaching the budget on this hawg!
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turbo stuff ordered
drawings made for ecotec flanges
starting to looking like something
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all 1.75" tube done
just about ready to sit on its own weight and roll soon.
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roller status, sitting on charged shocks.
have a few clearance issues at full corner bump so i need to think on how to solve that. only need about .5-1" more shock to upper link clearance. i knew it was going to be tight and had to start somewhere.
at least being symmetrical its exactly the same problem front and rear lol
sold a rear SD axle today for 200$, making one of my 60s free. win
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roller
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decided best fix is to move the upper axle link mounts in a heim width and cope in a clearance notch at main chassis tube where shocks just kiss.
i could have been lazy and move the shocks outside the chassis, but i really wanted them protected inside. literally fighting for 1/2" in like 3 places to fit the shock on a corner.
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all clearance issues fixed, front drive shaft made and installed.
moving towards getting the seat mounted next. should be interesting.
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finished up exhaust manifold and started planing out turbo / intercooler / rad placement
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i see someone is really having fun with the CNC plasma
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started on steering
machined up some threaded collars to connect 1.125" thread to 7/8" heim
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made a 3' bed extension for my lathe so i can fit the 60" tie rod up for machine work.
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high steer arms welded on and tie rod machined for front today. finish up rear tomorrow.
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beefy
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hopefully it doesn't fail, the Barns kit uses a 1" bolt through the OEM hole. it moves the tie rod out for diff cover clearance, keeps the Ram push point same place. with ~50* steering i use exactly 8" of Ram travel.
lathe extension worked great today to machining the 53" tie rod. just have to take care with squaring it up a little bit more than usual but not a big deal.
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Rams mounted this afternoon
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need to start populating control locations before finishing up tube work.
1550 shafts came, ordered coolers to get rad pack and charge pipes finalized.
pretty close to plumbing things and wires soon.
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engine block tapped for turbo oil drain. more fittings and parts on the list to wrap up plumbing on this hawg
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cooler stack for rad, trans, steering, intercooler
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so for an off the shelf M12 x 1.75 coper washer seal to 1/8"NPT there are two options brass or AL
brass lots of reviews the piece is junk, breaks, etc.
comes with instructions not to exceed 25ft lbs. i set my torq wrench to 20ft lbs. immediately snaps at like 1/3 of that lol
no options and my lathe i guess doesnt do metric threading
going to try making what i need out of a bolt i guess
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIJ39O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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the install tool for super duty vacuum seals is comically big and heavy lol
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You are cruising right along with this thing.
Any chance we'll see this thing in New England? ;D
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i dont know, we will see.
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so for an off the shelf M12 x 1.75 coper washer seal to 1/8"NPT there are two options brass or AL
brass lots of reviews the piece is junk, breaks, etc.
comes with instructions not to exceed 25ft lbs. i set my torq wrench to 20ft lbs. immediately snaps at like 1/3 of that lol
no options and my lathe i guess doesnt do metric threading
going to try making what i need out of a bolt i guess
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIJ39O?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
dug though my metric bolt bucket and found a M12x1.75 bolt, stuck it in the lathe and made what i needed. steel should hold way better.
header wrapped and installed with turbo. oil feed and drain lines, O2 bung, oil pressure gage tap isntalled.
working on sourcing braided AN3 brake line parts to make all lines since it gets a little tricky and annoying doing it how i would normaly do with off the shelf hoses.
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rear tub work done for cooling and cell
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boxes and boxes of parts pilled up, hoping to get back on this thing in April :o
front winch came in. its so cute.
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drug back into shop for a couple of days
ambition is low, stuck on cab controls/floors/4th engine mount
i guess i just need to start throwing tube at it and see what happens.
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finally made some progress on cabin layout and controls today. i think its going to work out pretty good.
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getting ready to start plumbing.
fuel cell enclosure finishd and cell mounted
hydro res mounted
battery box mounted
exhaust done and muffler hung
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PCM and TCM mounted
more chassis tube work done on the sides
gages mounted
hydro lines in
fuel system lines in
turbo hot and cold side clamped up
cooing system clamped up
waiting on the hydro return line to come in
more brake fittings and line to come in
wont be long till i can fire it, should be driving early next week i think.
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more wires
65psi oil pressure while cranking with starter motor / turbo feed bled
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fired up buggy.
imediatly noticed power steering pump not happy, dead headed.
ran output hose direct to tank to ignore that / think about it.
fought with cooling system on and off for 2 hours, cant get to bleed, bah!
fuel system good
exhaust good
wiring good
transmission still good after re assembly
50$ grab bag orbital is wrong kind. determined its closed center with 5th port load sense. not open center with 5th port power beyond.
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new open center 4 port orbital installed with rear steer spool valve in series. works mint. 3.5 turns lock to lock (lots of steering angle!) and rear stear works great.
thermostat had no bleed hole and would not open to allow engine to pass coolant. gutted t stat and all good. if i get a new one i might put a 3/8" hole in it and keep the stat functional.
rips around good, gearing with 3.73 seems like it would be crawlable so 5.38s should be nice.
on to hit list for a shake down run. a little bit a fabrication left and wire/plumbing clean up.
lots of work left, but glad its moving, charging, cooling, holding oil.
brakes and hubs / gears and such lol
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solid second shift on this tonight. i left a lot of welding in hard places haha. rear links and shocks pulled for final weld, tab paint, top locks. need to run for hardware tomorrow.
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shocks and links locked down final. proper test drive (FWD only, open diff, 3.73s)
limit straps in
electrical and hydro instal cleaned up
spot painting the hard places as i go.
chassis should be ready to finish paint after rest of fabrication is done like floors,roof,winch, harness mounts ect.
made some turbo noises!
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brake lines mostly run. ordered another roll of braded hose. was short.
hopefully the 250$+ i have spent total on hose and fittings is not a big fail and they hold pressure. ordered twice and then more, big fail trying to be cheap ha.
probably on to gears / shafts tomorrow while waiting for some ods and ends parts. i think diff covers are the only thing i need to settle on making or buying.
floor and roof tins ect, winch.
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petals remounted
rear gears in and housing painted
front axle torn down.
exhaust manifold leak someone forgot to weld 1/4" spot somewhere i was able to get at and weld while on the car!
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moving right along.. 8)
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gears and shafts finished up both ends, painted.
rolled the dice on ebay drive slugs @24$ each, they look great, and fit great. burned up some caps with some spacers. quick fun project.
first diff cover bent up on nicks brake, test fit, half welded. will final weld the ring while bolted to housing. need to grab more 5/16" plate this week or just make a 3/16" one for rear.
rolling along!
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solid 10 min rip around property. thing hawgs and shifts great, gearing is great crawls up concrete wall with ease at idle. rear stear and front steer seem fine.
need more brakes. i have dual 1" bore willwoods, just ordered 1.25" to get more volume. dual piston front F350 calipers on all 4 corners taking way too much volume to do anything. everything bled and working, just need more flow.
axles filled and done.
need some floor work, asses winch situation. couple leaks and othe comfort items. harnesses, roof probably a bit more but major stuff is knocked out.
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how's the shoulder to manifold comfort and noise situation? Satisfactory?
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it was tolerable with just the initial header wrap i had.
today i added 2" of fiberglass mat and 2 aluminum sheilds over that. the initial header wrap is like 4-5 layers thick.
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last two days this thing is really coming together.
roof done, winch mount done, started on side tins. harness tabs in. more painted.
new masters came in tonight so i have some cad work to do to get them adapted to the willwood mount. looks promising.
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I think this thing is done for a shake down run next weekend.
full chassis painted and should harden up nice with the day off tomorrow.
just waiting on another pack of hardware for last side tin, and a hydro fitting i have to swap for clearance to winch mount at full bump.
solid rip for another 10 minutes around the property, crawls like a goat on any of my concrete walls. burned off the header wrap steam.
steering has a hint of cavitation noises
lots of power
lots of gearing
brakes are 40% improved with new MCs and it now has more brake than i can push, so improvement would require assist or petal geo change.
in a sketch situation, grabing cutting brakes doubles stopping power
really lack of braking reversing idle power down a wall is what prompted wanting more brakes but i think its tolerable now.
only one or two final things on my list
need to add oil pressure sheild at turbo inlet. could be major safty issue if one of the 5 china fittings failed with hot oil up there 12" from my head.