Land Rover 109

[rejeep]

Winter work:

Stock PCV setup
Koenig
Fuel pump (NOS)
New Front DS, possible frame notch required
Tcase shifter anti rattle clip
Fluids
valves
exhaust (This is next... figuring out the pipes is the hard part)

[rejeep]

Winter work:

Stock PCV setup (running aftermarket)
Koenig
Fuel pump (NOS)
New Front DS, possible frame notch required
Tcase shifter anti rattle clip
Fluids
valves
exhaust (This is next... figuring out the pipes is the hard part)

trucks running strong..
steering wheel vibration accelerating at certain speeds..  DS balance, U joint or front axle pinion are my first thoughts..

[rejeep]

I'm not digging into this right at the moment, just going to live with it....
after driving my Series for a week now in 25-45 degree weather I have figured out my over heating discrepancy.

I run 2 temp gauges.. a dual smiths mechanical and the stock electronic unit.
mechanical probe is in upper rad hose, stock electronic is in stock location.

I would notice at various times while driving my stock gauge would creep into the red (running a 'hot" T-stat)
mechanical gauge would remain steady

last night I noticed while driving around with lights and blower on, my temp gauge was into the red
mechanical gauge would remain steady

This morning I had an extend HWY drive and I fooled around a bit...
electric dash load would raise the needle on my gauge.. shutting lights and blower off would drop needle back to "safe" area (not immediate, slowly)
mechanical gauge would remain steady

so what's different back there...
Voltage stabilizer is stock, flasher is electronic LED unit, all lamps on truck LED
only think I can think of is perhaps electronic flasher is messing with voltage stability?

any thoughts on this one?  like I said not going to tear into this, everything works fine..

[mr.mindless]

Can you swap sensor locations? That would be the first thing I'd want to do. Upper rad hose is post-stat so should stay stable even if stat isn't opening as it should.

I'd expect an electrical issue would react faster, unless the needle motion is damped.

[rejeep]

it is dampened..

I am planning on this, but the stock unit requires a block ground.. hard to do that in the upper hose..
and if it wasn't some funky British tp on the brass I would make some kind of splitter..

plan on replacing the radiator this spring once the prototype im waiting for comes out..
no coolant means I can mess around in there

[M4wdFab]

if you verify electric loads on and off, make the needle move, you have an electric issue as in supply variation or ground issues with higher dash load.  I would first throw a DVM on some things while switching on and off accessories to verify supply voltages is consistant. 


that OEM temp sensor is basically a glow plug sitting in the block- its a resistive heating element your essentially powering (low power) and monitoring as the resistance of it as it changes with coolant temp.  If you vary the input sense voltage, its like shifting the calibration table of it... 

I think creep changes also make sense because the resistive element has a time constant involved before it stabilizes to a new set of conditions- input voltage or the coolant temp change. 

[mr.mindless]

oh wow. that sounds insanely sensitive to voltage changes. Fully agree with the smart guy that does a lot of these things

[M4wdFab]

reasons why most new stuff is 5V with a regulated supply, so if its say 10-15V coming from truck, regulated to 5, everything still plays nice. 

[rejeep]

Winter work:

Stock PCV setup (running aftermarket)
Koenig
Fuel pump (NOS)
New Front DS, possible frame notch required
Tcase shifter anti rattle clip
Fluids
valves
exhaust (This is next... figuring out the pipes is the hard part)

Finally got around to making my LR a 4x4 again..

Stock LR front DS was about an inch too short and an inch to thick to work with the new springs and shackles.
I decided to call Great Basin Rovers from a custom front unit instead of Tom Woods
GBR makes the front DS out of thinner tube with a thicker wall, and of course a longer slip joint.
he assured me to try his DS first before notching the cross member.
I have to say I am pleasantly surprised and thrilled I have one less welding job on the frame this summer..
Need to flex it out again in the parking lot and check clearances, but I don't see this being a problem

Next task at hand is a regular tune up and perhaps some cooling work..
Still thinking about the electrical gauge issue.. also debating relocating the mechanical sender to the block for a more accurate reading (hence fixing the electrical issue  )

[rejeep]

misplaced my Chilton's with the nice color diagram..
can anybody help me with some spark plug reading..

I think its about time to adjust the valves..  just wanted to see if there was more to the story..

unless I messed it up last night.. plugs should be 1-4 (left to right) rotated 180 deg in second picture

[rejeep]

Always something.....

took out of storage, got gas, get on expressway.. all is good

 when I got to the off ramp after a good 15 min of high speed (well for a rover)
 I heard a rather loud nasty noise while coasting..
 truck drives normally under power, but a downshift or coasting and I have some rather unpleasant noise..
 (loud harmonic noise from under truck, I know vague.)

 got it home and swapped vehicles due to meetings...

 any idea on where to start or what to expect when i get home?

 Ashcroft (rebuilt) driveline and Roverdrive.. all engage and function properly..
 front axle in 2wd
 rear Salisbury in what I assumed was good condition 

[mr.mindless]

everything in N with wheels chocked so there's no load and it doesn't roll over you - check all yokes, joints, ouputs, inputs...

[rejeep]

I have a sneaky feeling its rear diff...

[M4wdFab]

inner pinnion bearing rear diff

[rejeep]

Pinion yoke was loose as a goose...  Nut was finger tight

Knocked the cover off and found some scoring from the pinion gear on the carrier.
Ring looks good, no chips or wear marks.

So what do I do?
Torque it down and go or get familiar with a Salisbury?

I will add, the pinion has always been a source of attention.
It's leaked, been loose on occasion, and there always seems to be some slack back there...