M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: rejeep on October 15, 2017, 08:47:10 PM
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Pulled the trigger today...
This truck has been 5 min away (and in the same position) since I’ve lived in Rochester.
Moving it will be a chore...
(https://preview.ibb.co/jsp25m/8_BF8783_F_FB1_B_436_F_BC3_B_24_FADF234145.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eaSYBR)
photos upload sites (https://imgbb.com/)
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It’s a good disease :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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An uneventful tow home... frame giving up from underneath it..
(https://preview.ibb.co/fkHbmR/1_B7_DC5_A7_448_E_4_D9_E_B2_A6_27076_BF6_D288.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dDg2RR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mqKNRR/171148_AC_86_B8_47_B7_AA29_4_F22_F80_BD232.jpg) (https://ibb.co/chU0D6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eAwDY6/E8_E765_EE_40_E8_48_E6_8732_AE5546_D617_C5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j39p6R)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gT8tY6/E628_EB2_F_A5_B2_4280_A1_D3_B7_A07_F2_FEFE4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dce0D6)
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It's not red this time!
Very cool!
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A Rover in 100 Pieces..
Should have a frame this weekend...
More details and help requests to come ;D
(https://preview.ibb.co/nbW4rR/31765431_95_A8_4_D11_98_E2_B6_C5_AE050_E31.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k4vVWR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hKo65m/E027752_D_7_F8_A_495_F_9_E10_8_ACE52_E9_F528.jpg) (https://ibb.co/meQ8J6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/b2xxvw/52_CAF684_4_C90_486_E_8_A49_53_D3_FF450_FA5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gJJRoG)
(https://preview.ibb.co/b9yFhb/EAC94055_17_CF_45_EC_AC4_A_C75_A58_F3_BDF6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jbV6oG)
image album upload (https://imgbb.com/)
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Bulkhead removed last night.. need to figure out how I'm going to pull the drivetrain.
chassis didn't make it far enough back into the garage... chain fall fail..
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hook chain fall to motor to pull, lift chassis up by it and let slide / roll back, with jack stands/dollies under rear.
re position front supports, unbolt motor, pull motor
:)
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back of the garage piled with the stripped truck..
but I can see that working... walk it up with a floor jack under the oil pan. hmm
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Things starting to piece together..
Mike picked up the frame over the weekend..
truck is 100% disassembled into key components..
my next door neighbor thinks I'm Sanford and Son.. good thing wife isn't home
All spread out in the garage ready to work..
should be figuring out suspension this week..
(https://preview.ibb.co/czUGfw/97_AC3_E0_A_4_DD7_4_CD4_806_E_EA47397_AD023.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iArU0w)
(https://preview.ibb.co/j2dytG/C87_AB70_A_76_AB_4356_A3_A4_4641_ADA40263.jpg) (https://ibb.co/chp4YG)
upload pictures to web (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://preview.ibb.co/k8vp0w/A3_B02114_00_E6_47_AD_90_C4_0_A22_EB25749_B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mYnPYG)
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cool!
is the motor i just pulled going in this?
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that's the plan as I understand it!
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;)
lot of little pieces falling into place today..
should have a solid idea/plan next couple days of what is really going to happen..
I think mike saved me some coin..
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took some spray 9 and water to the body tub sides..
if I can clean up the trim without removing or dipping, this might be the way to go..
(https://preview.ibb.co/c59mF6/IMG_3302.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hUDDv6)
image album upload (https://imgbb.com/)
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Looks good from here!
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New footwells and some general cleanup on the bulkhead completed.. almost ready for its hot zinc bath...
got some old snows mounted on stock rims for rollers.
New parabolic (tapered leaf) springs ordered and on the way
Having a bitch of a time with the rear axle..
drum set screws frozen, drum frozen on hub flange.. BFH and 30 min of whacking didn't do much...
project patina underway...
(https://preview.ibb.co/m0bTfG/DCFBEA6_E_EF54_4063_B3_DC_49857_FD7_A055.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fgWGZb)
upload photos to website (https://imgbb.com/)
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Having a bitch of a time with the rear axle..
drum set screws frozen, drum frozen on hub flange.. BFH and 30 min of whacking didn't do much...
Needs fire?
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I have a bic lighter compared to what I really should be using..
I don't want to go and rebuild these things.. was just going to do hydraulics and friction..
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needs bigger hammer
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Took some effort, but got all 4 drums removed yesterday.
This little impact driver really was the hero.. thanks for the recommendation. I’ve had one in my tool box for years, never really gave it much consideration..
Marked the frame for surgery..
Traveling till Wednesday, so not much more going on.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kjGwKb/539522_C1_5265_4609_93_B8_938_E42238881.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cHj5Cw)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mQG7QG/56_EF1_BDB_3236_44_DD_869_E_1_D0_BC939_AA16.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fj23zb)
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old lump
(https://preview.ibb.co/muqTNw/ABF69_B4_E_4_D18_41_D7_9040_7_BD1229_CF2_E2.jpg])
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Basic work on the Bulkhead completed...
Needs some TLC and a decision on coating.
(https://preview.ibb.co/kHiJSw/8_E89_D674_F2_C0_40_D7_BF90_1_AC2291_D6_D59.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g25Xnw)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dFeE0G/D0_D26_D03_A568_4503_B5_D3_A120_A70_D0_FAF.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jejgfG)
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can't wait to see one of those V6s under the hood and bedind a radiator to see where it all sits.
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im not going to cut the mounts out of the frame just yet..
want to wait till I have an assembled drivetrain to really test fit everything..
the bulkhead is actually on the wrong side of the outriggers in that picture, but the radiator panel sits in front of the forward crossmember..
people put small blocks and rover V8's in these things with only minor trimming..
I essentially have a Rover V8 minus 2 cyl..
it will fit,
I hope
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80 degrees and sunshine coming tomand end...
Getting back to thinking about this....
As it sits now...
Rover axles stripped down.
Rear axle prepped and painted, ready for assembly
Front axle stripped, needs paint and waiting on some front end parts.
Taper leaf (parabolic) suspension on shop floor
Assorted brackets, backing plates, etc all dropped at sandblaster for prep and paint. (Using a new product.. U Tech industrial coatings)
Bulkhead repaired to stock, awaiting drivetrain placement for any final tweaks.
Some light body repairs done or in process as well.
Dauntless Engine dropped at machine shop
T176 in drop in condition, Buick bellhousing already on.
Tranfercase adapter on backorder... patiently waiting
(https://preview.ibb.co/gA3pFR/EDC1804_C_2_C9_B_40_B4_A797_0_F5375916_D90.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dp7o9m/C759_AC91_DC96_4_AA1_BDFA_0_F4561_FA9_CD5.jpg)
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Hello Arie:
Hope your vacation was nice and WARM!!
Back to reality....
Your 225 Buick is all apart. Looks great inside.
Look up and see what you can get for 1st oversize pistons and rings.
Crankshaft looks good and will take standard size bearings.
Usual parts: Camshaft, lifters, timing set, cam bearings and soft pug kit as well as gaskets.
Believe it or not the timing cover/oil pump even looks good.
Get a oil pick up tube please.
This looks like a well cared for engine. good find.
Let me know what you can find.
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that's the one that smike pulled, not one of the two I picked up right?
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Commando engine smoke pulled...
1 of the 2 you picked up already sold...
The one I have left is a Buick odd fire (not a real dauntless)
I’m going to make a 226/t176 conversion package with spare units I have and warehouse..
I have a feeling this is package worth keeping for something in the future...
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just got a whole host of brackets and stuff back from blast and paint..
used this new coating the buffalo stores sells..
same stuff freightliner uses on their chassis.. not a POR, but a DTM
post some pics later..
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A heated garage fantastic......
Detached from house with a few fresh inches :-
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one more rover night tonight.. trying to get these axles back together...
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Suspension hung and axle casings are mounted..
Rear axle is in and ready to accept wheels and tires..
Hit a wall rebuilding the knuckles, lacking a handful of 7/16 BSF threaded nuts...
would love to get the front buttoned up this week and have a roller..
Engine parts arrived.. and don't you know the stock grind from Sealed Power is NLA..
went with a 252 comp cam...
haven't had much luck with aftermarket grinds... but all those engines were FI...
here's to sticking with a carb :P
(https://preview.ibb.co/hRZ1bm/96507_FC2_76_D8_4_AF4_93_E3_82_A287_A01_E2_A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c2UZwm)
(https://preview.ibb.co/efnXhR/29_E4_A054_11_DB_4_FCB_9193_7_E5_FE85_A3_E0_E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j4syNR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eCHb96/A861_A7_F6_B24_A_456_D_A864_70861_A66_C06_D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jhLJNR)
minus (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://preview.ibb.co/d7gQ2R/FF88466_E_6_A61_4306_B89_B_B875_CDF44900.jpg) (https://ibb.co/n7ppU6)
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Knuckles look pretty beefy for sealed stuff
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this job goes right along with chassis bushing removal..
(https://preview.ibb.co/jFEx46/662227_A1_AF19_4460_8_B18_40_BA6_E27_E600.jpg) (https://ibb.co/er9VP6)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nLemxR/CA0_E1_FF9_F9_C4_454_F_8_FC6_81_C2_EB60_F0_C3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iLSvrm)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eYpVP6/C81_FCEFB_C515_4893_A333_22_CA6346234_F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eQ6YcR)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nqP8Bm/8_E098_E5_C_A503_4_D59_B07_F_FD75_EEEF1471.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fHt1Wm)
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even with assembling new parts?
chassis bushings are death!
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new land rover parts have the quality control of a Russian space capsule and NOS parts are coated in gold if available...
there are so many places for oil to leak in the damn thing its amazing they are oil tight..
cant get the correct preload with the king pin for the bottom bearing... I have been assured its a part fitment issue..
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Its officially a roller...
took forever longer than I thought to throw these axles together..
lots of fiddly pieces and seals, flanges that need sealing etc...
Going to keep busy with brakes, steering and suspension while waiting for drivetrain..
figure the more stuff in place, the better the motor will find a home.
Might whack the battery tray out of the way.. its just a flat surface collecting junk now..
(https://preview.ibb.co/m0rqgw/DFEDEC62_5557_48_FA_85_B5_4251_C58679_D5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jKXJZG)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hxnVgw/5362_BC2_B_83_E7_477_A_826_B_0_F4_C72_DE863_C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fPCwMw)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bEGZ8b/56_B1_D365_C146_4_F1_D_82_E3_833_F97_B915_B4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gjLGMw)
unlimited image hosting (https://imgbb.com/)
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Frame got some attention tonight...
Went over with spray 9 and a scrub brush.. (hot water hose in garage)
May still try and pressure wash after frame shop trip..
My knuckles found every tab and bracket multiple times.
(https://image.ibb.co/bDft8x/C0_B35508_3_D8_A_48_F2_A824_84_C514_BEE288.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/kzuyac/129_E3207_D188_4628_9999_21_EB0_C3875_F7.jpg)
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Projects always like that blood sacrifice
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Waiting on parts... specifically an engine..
Started stripping and cleaning the body, but that got old quickly.
Took all that frustration and cleaned shop.
Amazing how much I organized, tossed or moved out.
(https://preview.ibb.co/mPu2A7/81878_ED5_0_F26_4410_B536_6_B3_F435_DE8_BF.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dYDJiS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/j3T7cn/555_B7778_0_A61_4_EF2_B956_D6291_BE8_B7_B8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/en7diS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fzxpq7/A02_A70_F3_1_C56_4_EBA_BAAB_4_BA175995_DDE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jqRhA7)
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I think I should clean and complain more often...
got this video from the machine shop today.....
its ALIVE...
https://youtu.be/3maYa4o_SGg
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woo!
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Sweet!
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Now the fun starts....
I only looked at it briefly tonight..
bolted the drivetrain together and threw it on some jack stands in the chassis.
Going to mount the bulkhead tomorrow and start messing around.
(https://preview.ibb.co/gP3PvH/4_A40_F2_DE_097_B_45_EF_B2_E8_74_F4_D769095_A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hYV4vH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eK3PvH/118_F1685_4_A26_43_F3_B5_A1_BF95_DF942293.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gsexFH)
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is there a rule of thumb for drivetrain angle?
couldn't find my angle gauge yesterday.. wanted to check the Red Rover for comparison..
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at least 2-3Ëš operating angle for ujoints. drivetrain angle usually 3-5Ëš in the chassis I believe, and pinion angle should match drivetrain with a link suspension at ride height, and should be about 1Ëš pinion down with leaf springs to account for axle wrap under power.
we'll see if anyone disagrees with my recollection...
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Transfer case output angle doesn't matter as long as outputs are at or near same angle as pinions if no double cardan joint on driveshaft. If DC on driveshaft, then +1* pinion down from driveshaft angle for links, maybe another 1-2* for leafs to compensate for load under power.
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started throwing some parts at this last night...
I am fairly happy with the motor 1" offset to the driver side (LHD) and the Tcase clocked down
there will be some trans tunnel modification as I have the drivetrain a bit higher to get the front propshaft to clear the cross member. But all in all things look good.
I think I have come to my tradeoff decision...
With the engine moved forward I have no bulkhead modification required.
However cooling would need to be changed and I would probably have to go to power steering.. basically a lot of custom fabrication and parts hunting..
moving the engine back I can retain the factory radiator and steering(I think) , but will challenge the shape of the passenger side foot well..
Exhaust doesn't seem to be as big a deal as I thought.. the Stock Jeepster manifolds and Y pipe are a possible option.. I have some other block hugging headers coming this week to experiment with.
Need to stare at it a bit more, get the steering box, relay and track rod in place before committing to any bulkhead chopping..
here is where it sits as of now.. sorry for all the pictures.. maybe somebody will see something I'm overlooking..
(https://preview.ibb.co/idPtqH/F4472_B9_B_592_C_46_D2_A07_E_8202_D85_A1_C00.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fpehjc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/c6qBcx/F70_EF528_A92_C_474_C_9_D1_E_5_FAD6971_B4_B4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hVvcHx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/duWTPc/C1000_C99_D7_CA_43_C2_8_A54_FF26_BC230_BF4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eS72jc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kZUhjc/E77_EC82_E_EB7_F_408_A_A046_18_B2_A26_F106_E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/koBv4c)
(https://preview.ibb.co/ec72jc/470_F7750_2_A49_442_F_A880_40_F855_F64_DAA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fAia4c)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dGNeVH/17_D64_F5_B_B6_BD_4_B89_9488_B455_E5_E9_E0_FD.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gEqoPc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/m1s2jc/E8_B670_CF_465_E_4259_BAF8_7_D7_C5519_D6_CF.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jLYWcx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cnwv4c/E45_F911_B_70_D1_483_E_A6_CD_23746_E497_B28.jpg) (https://ibb.co/h3HPxx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/daYa4c/CCFA6627_D279_4_ECE_944_C_4_BB5_F8_FC7_B11.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k34RAH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mQwTPc/C38_F25_F8_D44_B_494_A_A9_A2_49_A5_E73_DAEBE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ksMv4c)
(https://preview.ibb.co/myw6AH/DA217_D64_E8_EB_4642_8_FF6_EFA2_B8_D7417_C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bKEtqH)
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I’d follow something like that marked red line on the passenger footwell and keep the rest of it simple. Looks like manifolds are dumping to the crossmember. Y pipe must just clear above and behind that?
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Y pipe and steering box will hopefully be mocked up tonight..
im thinking a simple vertical slice of the foot well too...
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Agreed on red line cut unless something inside occupies that space. Easiest and cleanest option.
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You can see from the last picture. It’s all passenger foot well... the larger of the 2 sides I might add since LR engines are offset to the LH side
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quick look at lunch today says steering could be an issue, even with the bulkhead cut..
Need a driveshaft in place with the hopes I can center engine.
with the engine centered and moved back a bit stock cooling and steering should be ok..
will prob have to abandon manifolds in lieu of block huggers and a drive side single exhaust..
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Motor back to center..
going to load up the rest of the steering linkage, but I think everything might be in the clear..
Ordered a repair panel for the bulkhead, hopefully I can make it look factory, just 3.5" shorter..
(https://preview.ibb.co/jq3ycx/53_D2_EC04_0_CBE_4894_AB18_ACC4444_E605_E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nfo9jc)
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Before I go and ruin what I have, can somebody check me and see if this is sound..
I want to section out ~3" or so from the foot well (leave factory mount holes) and section in ~3" to the firewall..
I have my old bulkhead and its rot free in that area..
Idea is I want to retain factory mount points and transmission hump curve..
I can extend the transmission tunnel in the same way..
what's the best way to do this? overlap and spot weld similar to the repair panels or butt it up
(https://preview.ibb.co/hTZhpn/Bulkheadcut.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nE3LaS)
(https://image.ibb.co/fmkBh7/Bulkheadcut2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jkx2pn)
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seems fully reasonable. overlapping and spot welding would be much easier of you don't mind or will cover the results.
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Looks like it almost belongs.
(https://preview.ibb.co/emKp27/07_FBF3_B5_16_E3_4_A64_987_C_B92_FA1_B22188.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fKuNN7)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gqXWFS/E91289_DC_FB99_4_BA5_BEFB_53_ECF23_D29_AD.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eJxyvS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nDL7pn/E509_FF90_37_FA_4148_B8_C9_6_B75_C9_EFC151.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b22L9n)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gkD5aS/20348_C64_3_AD6_4_E0_A_BF0_A_C2_F3_CD59_D6_DC.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gPotUn)
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no time wasted. I like it.
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cutting was the easy part...
Going to secure the foot well patch panel today and start looking at the firewall..
I’m waiting on a set of headers to look at exhaust options..
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That dog ;D
It’s looking good!
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dropped at panorama collision to un tweak the bent crossmember..
I always pick the best weather days to do stupid shit at lunch..
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New foot well panel welded in last night..
starting to think about coating options
(https://preview.ibb.co/jjq0jn/55_DABDED_E144_42_BD_A9_E3_8237_A48_E5149.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dSTWqS)
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Frame all unbent...
(https://preview.ibb.co/b34a0S/183_C60_E5_DF21_4_AAF_8_ED4_0_DF342483_E13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iWaR77)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iv6oLS/8775_EC42_0169_43_E3_93_A7_93_A77_D6_B385_F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cW1NfS)
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Was the rest straight?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Perfectly.... Only a rhino could ruin it
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When setting engine mounts, they should be level relative to the ground correct?
My chassis sits not exactly level, engine mounts should match?
I tried to eliminate all variables, filled all tires to same psi, suspension same height..
One is currently bolted to the frame, setting the other one in relation to that..
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I’d level things to the body/frame. Anything else would drive me insane. Frame level to ground. If it leans on the suspension a bit so be it.
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set frame on 3 or 4 jack stands at same height and reasonably level floor. mount.
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I think I’m within reasonably level tolerances😉
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In-the-bush tolerances! It's fine. ;D
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yeah, but I'm sure GM would have assigned 4 people and one supervisor to check the bush mechanics works... and then issued a recall..
Figured if I got everything secured and in place, I could ask a much more proficient welder to burn it in... ::)
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Nobody will know if the engine isn’t level as long as the hood is closed haha.
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This should do
(https://preview.ibb.co/hXJL1c/9_FF3_E612_3_B79_42_C8_93_E5_7_BA01_C2_CBF38.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fyz4SH)
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this thing is cool!
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M4 to the rescue...
going to clean one more time before sprayer welded or cut areas..
(https://preview.ibb.co/cP2rWc/5677545_F_7_E80_4_C9_E_996_A_407_C3_BCE42_C6.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ifOLPx)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jCDbxH/52_DEE1_C4_4948_4_AD1_8281_E4_E28_E61_ABC1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nQ7fPx)
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that galv stuff is nasty to weld in between holding breath lol. make sure not to have the kids around!
hopefully that drive shaft cut out will work for you.
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Motor locked down in the chassis...
still left the slides on the motor mounts un welded if there are any last min off set changes..
Need to dial in drivetrain angle, despite the fact I see a super expensive driveshaft in my future..
Front DS notch is as close to perfect as could...
Passenger car driver side manifold just saved me a full 1" in steering clearance.. unfortunately or fortunately the matching passenger side has a turbo outlet, so I'm sticking with the stock Jeep unit.
(https://preview.ibb.co/nvPEBn/25_F16_FEE_9_FAA_4_CE6_880_A_8_CF8215_B2_C0_C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gGusxS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nrhqj7/16120_AC7_E36_C_4_CCF_9_F9_B_4696725946_DB.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gwkXxS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eVBGP7/34_A8_D240_2790_424_C_A3_F2_91_BE2_CE60_C6_E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gv4sxS)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eH4EBn/985_CE443_C87_F_4642_94_ED_058515_EAD12_D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kxabP7)
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drive shafts are easy to make
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yeah, not going to sweat it until were rolling..
stock rear in place currently, new front DS ordered.. (didn't have old one)
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Manifolds off to Jet Hot...
Empire Radiator going over and repositioning lower inlet..
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and just like that I'm looking for a radiator.. ???
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oops?
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Core is shot...
Rebuilt cost more than 2 aftermarket new...
Decisions
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got happy with primer and seam sealer this weekend..
only thing really holding up some faster paced assembly is the lack of a finished bulkhead..
amazingly the Duplicolor Self etch primer I used matches very nicely with the original patina im trying to save...
Debating footwell and firewall final treatment.. I think the engine compartment is getting dynamat and possibly bedliner in the footwells...
(https://preview.ibb.co/gdqm3c/E4_F8_B708_05_DD_4069_A26_A_6_DAD159_AE832.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hYZDic)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fBpPpH/BE56_CD23_E834_4_A9_D_AA25_473_BD7_E133_A3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ik9eOc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dmmhbx/F237_BF2_C_A4_C8_4_DA6_BAFA_14839_FC451_EA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kM0VUH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/k2ojpH/D4479696_B281_4356_9760_B6_DE6_C3_A3_C41.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mZOH9H)
(https://preview.ibb.co/b3Dvwx/EBAA7_B64_6_E77_4_EAD_B481_AD476_F30300_D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mxM4pH)
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2 coats of bed armor on the lower bulkhead last night.. cranked up head in the garage to let everything cure for a while..
(https://preview.ibb.co/jNe5gx/8533_EB0_E_A28_D_4_BAF_926_C_2_C948_B190_FC5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jEw7uH)
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Three coats and this is what I’m going with.
Taking a bit longer to dry than the directions indicate..
Cranked up the heat on the shop and just letting it all cure for a day or so.
(https://preview.ibb.co/eNHB6x/8_CD3_AF1_D_A6_C6_40_B2_8_F5_E_8_E5_B39_D31_DA1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m3WFYc)
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Bulkhead all buttoned up..
Gave it a good scrubbing with Spray 9 and a hot water.
Finished he engine compartment with sound deadening on footwells and and heat shielding.
Very pleased with the way it came out. All seams gone over with aluminum tape.
Also ran into my first assembly issue.. driver motor mount needed to be trimmed for fuel pump fitment.
(https://preview.ibb.co/hcaaKH/D672317_F_FCAA_4_E4_D_9812_6108_FB6391_A0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ncV9eH)
(https://preview.ibb.co/iKC0mx/13570216_0280_4_CD1_8362_36_C5995_A407_F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nvFxYc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dREkKH/BE14_B859_63_EF_49_A8_A571_DDDCDC87_DC1_B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c947Yc)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eA81tc/0924_E348_9_B91_4_AC4_BD63_529_A3369_AE52.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mNEwRx)
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little bit more of an update...
Manifolds came back from Jet Hot.. and as expected the first of I'm sure several exhaust issues came about..
Driver side has extra long studs for the heat riser.. getting awful close to the clutch slave...
potentially going to find some right angle fittings to get the bleed screw and line out of the way.. may need to do some heat shielding as well..
Cleaned up and dressed the tub floor supports.. needed to free up some garage space so the tub is now sitting loosely on the frame. Fuel tank and sill supports shortly as well..
(https://preview.ibb.co/eQ8Liy/2_FA178_DA_856_D_43_C8_AC55_1_EE78_B9_FD6_CB.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gaa0iy)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cDCfiy/7_B324_A80_D605_4_E54_9_DF8_6581_EDB66603.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fnWvGJ)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dSMjAd/9_AB6_D62_A_34_BA_4_ECB_A26_D_B66_EBFCF0374.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f0wHVd)
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you keeping the heat riser? doesn't seem necessary for warm weather operations and shorter studs seem like the easiest of all fixes.
tailgate on the parts truck operated well, I think it'll be great. driver door window tried to commit suicide when the strap over the doors slipped but I caught it and saved it. glass and upper frame inside. Truck tried to commit suicide too - I know exactly what happened and why. I got lucky. That's for another thread.
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pop the studs out and drill for a through bolt, put the bolt in from the bottom
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on dual exhaust applications...
is a crossover needed to equalize backpressure or can I run 2 pipes out the back?
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all systems have many dynamics that with change will have effect. keep it as close to how it was designed for least chance of screwing it up. on my first 49 build i really screwed it up. was undrivable 2000-3000rpm
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCio5K0WfHU
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all systems have many dynamics that with change will have effect. keep it as close to how it was designed for least chance of screwing it up. on my first 49 build i really screwed it up. was undrivable 2000-3000rpm
you're just talking drone and noise ,right?
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Episode of Engine Masters on MT pretty much debunked the crossover pipe and back pressure thing. It really comes down to sound. Crossover evens and mellows it a bit.
S2E22
See MikeMike's link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCio5K0WfHU
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I talked myself out of two pipes going right out the back..
working on the correct flange size at the moment..
I just need to get the exhaust past the bulkhead so I can start on more productive things..
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started test fitting the rest of the body work..
minimal trimming to the seat box is all that will be required..
not using the early 2a grill, need to mock up radiator for lower hose positioning..
(https://preview.ibb.co/gW4mO8/F39_D55_D9_E27_A_4_F92_B517_8_CBA7_BD5_F225.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fyTD38)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mT8rqo/9_CC8_B383_2_DC9_480_D_B290_A091_FEC76_ED1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kvXHVo)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cwgcVo/D4_F8_A656_0_AFD_4_C55_9638_7_E387_BFB7_E55.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iMUmO8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bVDrqo/7_B2_B4_C5_C_2_BE5_43_E6_B153_730_DBE57_D068.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gOQRO8)
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Got to focusing on the motor this past weekend.
I went fairly stock on the lines and accelerator mounting.. I knew accelerator pedal would be a challenge.. starting to figure out some options.
I also doubled back and swapped the driver exhaust manifold. Clutch slave isn’t in as bad shape and I still have adequate clearance for steering.. this should also enable me to start with the stock Y pipe for the frankenstein exhaust.
Nice to have matching manifolds now.. it was slightly bothering me..
(https://preview.ibb.co/iJZrF8/153_DC33_D_4_BD3_43_C4_AF5_E_BF6_C34413_C90.jpg) (https://ibb.co/g0fWF8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fQxBF8/C08_D9_F98_5_E27_4312_B527_8_AFF0073_E0_F3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gZPrF8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/hqN8TT/6_FE0_A866_51_D0_485_E_8_DED_379_CB30_C22_FE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fYCWho)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dqdhoT/95424_A73_3_B8_A_44_E8_A04_F_A9017_F172_D6_E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jjZ0a8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eNkWF8/843_A40_FE_816_E_4_FDC_8_D27_6_F2_F8779_ABB8.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dxtwho)
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Does a return fuel line need to go deep into the tank (bellow fuel level) or can it simply be a fitting on top of the tank?
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Just a fitting in the top
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Also decided to “keep it Jeep†with the radiator as well...
All the rover radiators I’ve tested have all
Come back with bad cores... got a new V6 aluminum unit that I think I’ll be able to fab in.
Very similar width and height, and best of all hose outlets are oriented correctly for the motor. I’m thinking some angle for new side brackets and still an electric fan..
(https://preview.ibb.co/foGHvJ/7_FAB6363_E586_4096_A7_D0_23_D5_E2_C7620_A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d8ympd)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jQHe9d/3_A687_FC4_7_E50_4035_A467_69_B8_CBD1229_E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cyko2y)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mXpFhy/C1913_E22_0_AA8_4_A4_C_9436_45_E1765632_C4.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gWugNy)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mRVo2y/5408_B8_D8_7145_48_AD_9_C21_8_FA1090_BDB78.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kuuFhy)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dqJahy/D1_B4_E630_E3_F4_49_BA_B703_8_AED01078_DDF.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kQXPaJ)
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sealed the deal with the previous owner of the truck I'm working on..
He allowed me the privilege of helping him clean out his basement.. take a few things that were missing from the original purchase and was more than happy to sell me the rest.. was no issue filling up the Comanche.
Score of the trip was the used 1 summer canvas top, hoop set and tailgate.. seems he didn't have any friends to help him lift the hardtop off after his divorce..
(https://preview.ibb.co/b2zApo/728_D4445_595_C_4_F5_A_A289_F76_FC4_CDF3_ED.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jcEzh8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/cdF5N8/E75959_A2_BA10_49_CB_B0_BF_0_ECDF4_EFFEA5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/d38gvT)
(https://preview.ibb.co/gU9oaT/A7289_A9_F_5245_4_FB1_AD61_E305555_C9352.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b54MvT)
Also had some quiet time with no wife at home this past weekend...
Those evenings are uninterrupted fab nights.. so I made some headway on the seat box/tunnel and floor.
it took an hour of staring and a couple botched tunnel adapters... but I think I'm there.. T case shifters should function as normal, just might need to be elongated to pass through tunnel..
only screwed up and put 1 unnecessary hold in the bulkhead [bghd] ill hide it somehow..
(https://preview.ibb.co/nsgeh8/8_FF96082_0530_42_FE_871_E_9_EE65_A348_B9_A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jYnKh8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/m5gC28/83_ED9_A29_B195_4_B48_BBAE_52_F0864_EE37_C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iFw1vT)
(https://preview.ibb.co/nKqGUo/423655_E6_A620_4478_AE99_BD242_C193_FFA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mdXkN8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dajzh8/490553_FF_CCA6_41_B2_A4_F9_721715_F99245.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hheoaT)
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New England Chrome Plating called and 47 brackets or trim pieces all done (Zinc electroplate)
Frontier Galvanizing should have their stuff done next week (hopefully)
Box of Lucas arrived from across the pond
Wife is gone tue-sat..
There should be some nice progress on this guy..
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you order extra smoke to put back in the components from the Prince of Darkness?
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wife and kids gone? when is the party and shop tour
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just wife.. some conference in Florida..
kids and dogs behind...
there in bed by 8 and TV is an acceptable alternative to bothering me.. 8)
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haha!
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Question:
I am passing a throttle cable through an angled surface.. (footwell)
but the pull on the cable needs to be strait (I’m cutting into the aluminum nut.
Any solutions or thoughts before I cobble something together?
I can prob post a pic later
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jacketed cable in sleeve? just run through a grommet? I think I'm missing the complication
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Bend a small "L" bracket and tack or screw in place?
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drill hole. take a piece of threaded rod as long as you can and as large of a diameter you can. nut and washer on both sides and lock them together. bend the rod and material surrounding the hole to the desired angle. remove, install your thing. works great if the material is thin enough.
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A picture is worth 1000 words. I’ll post one up tomorrow
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Replaced 2 mechanical linkages with cable..
Hand Brake and Throttle..
hand brake came out better then expected.. was able to retain the factory lever and ratchet mechanism..
Throttle on the other hand is going to need some tweaking.. bulkhead angle is too steep for a clean cable pull.. the steel cable is slowly eating away at the aluminum end on the pedal side.. need to adjust entry angle into the foot box..
(https://preview.ibb.co/b4ODb8/C651_F09_C_AACD_4243_AB1_E_BE5083_C70_A21.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gTTeG8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jPcvpT/CDEBE45_E_0250_4280_9954_A0_D350_C7_A7_E2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kY4apT)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dNVFpT/1652_DF88_415_F_49_DF_A404_0_FDC52_ED5_F8_B.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mq26w8)
(https://preview.ibb.co/c8Ro9T/559_B8_BD3_547_B_42_C7_AF66_55658_A57_F491.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gO4apT)
(https://preview.ibb.co/e0c6w8/D08_D14_B1_1_A2_A_4364_8430_CB7_BF75_A6_E29.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jPgYb8)
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Smike's idea is definitely the simplest. The other would be to make a block with a hole straight through and cut it at an angle or drill at an angle through a block split straight. depends how much length you have to work with on that fitting.
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i ordered another cable.. ill have some wiggle room..
i like the block idea.. maybe with 2 side tabs at an angle for mounting...
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maybe a 1x1x1 square tube, mounting tabs @ foot box angle..
I like that in theory...
do they make 3/4" square tube?
and answered:
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Steel/Square-tube/N-5yc1vZ1z0ybndZ1z116eq
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I have scraps of 1x1 if you don't mind rust (from years as rad support on 571)
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i have about 50 peices of 3/4" tube about 2' long i believe. i think its 3/4" maybe 5/8"
:edit: 3/4" square tube, 0.125 wall confirmed. closer to 3' long chunks
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Locking myself in the garage today to figure some stuff out
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Jealous
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I’m already not liking battery cable placement..
need to order a longer one....
(https://preview.ibb.co/g8YO1K/C76_B2_D80_6863_4_FB1_B8_B0_1_C4_D76_B8_A576.jpg)[/url]
(https://preview.ibb.co/iRpVgK/CEB6410_B_C1_B5_4_E0_C_87_D3_1_E3_A14_D6_E8_E2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jLqE8z)
(https://preview.ibb.co/bWY1oz/A41_D7_EE1_19_A8_477_B_8_C27_9633_B0_DA9_DF2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/j7oqgK)
(https://preview.ibb.co/dVOeae/F55_E13_B3_C160_49_FA_AE11_B0687_F4_F4_B86.jpg) (https://ibb.co/juS5Fe)
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Not sure what’s the end plan electrical wise but why not put most/all wiring, cable, starter solenoid inside that under seat compartment? For a cleaner under hood.
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I have some fire sleeve if you need a couple feet for that driver side valve cover area. Used it for running either my starter or winch power behind the header, forget which.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Cleaner means more work if there is a problem...
I’m ok with the looks, just dislike the remote battery..
I’m going to order a longer cable and run on other side of pedal boxes..
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longer cable on the way..
putting juice to it this week..
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Despite electrical success unseen problems happen..
Couple of pictures as to what I’m dealing with...
Went to start the motor yesterday, filled and bled clutch, no engagement.
I wasn’t getting any clutch action due to the fork hitting the back of the housing window.
Made a longer pushrod (before we had housing contact) and things just got worse.
Despite kicking myself and cursing, gearbox removal is rather simple... floors and seat come out and transmission gets lifted up rather than down.
Tranny out and throwout bearing proved evidence of perhaps something else. I think constant pushing on the fork the input shaft acted as a wedge and I had enough force to bend the back...
any thought?
There appears to be no surface wear on either clutch pressure plate or bearing...
I think this comes down to fork or bearing height and travel allowed..
Calling Novak and getting an adjustable bearing and ball stud..
I have a few clutch arms in stock, should have enough to cobble something together.
(https://preview.ibb.co/nQhYne/60_D55019_27_FC_4431_9162_5_DDC7_CB22_D42.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ms7zSe)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mSqKSe/CB53_C879_2_F51_4688_8477_0_A4_D7_D7195_F0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ftKDne)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jzm4tK/17_C50_BE6_DDEA_4472_BDEE_2999_B824_A968.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iTuDne)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kAkKSe/6_B2_FDDA7_070_A_47_E4_9_C0_E_70_BC21_FB00_DD.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nq4qYK)
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So there is no clutch engagement at all?
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So there is no clutch engagement at all?
This.
I think you meant there’s no disengagement?
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Syntax aside
When you engage the pedal it doesn’t disengage the clutch..
It’s deff a bearing height issue...
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Parts ordered, research done...
Taking Monday off to get this thing rolling..
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moved under its own power...
still lots of fiddly things to do though..
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functioning 100% still have not road tested..
working on the stupid stuff now...
16" wheels at the blaster
needs exhaust
floor and trans tunnel the focus now
door alignment being a bit of an issue..
engine compartment tidying
some interior trim and weather stripping last to do...
(https://preview.ibb.co/gKj0We/21_BD49_C5_A2_A6_472_A_AB32_AF71_B8_C19_CF1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fm8SBe)
(https://preview.ibb.co/mZcXcK/E9_BA62_E1_5_EF5_45_C2_8_E35_893485063_AEE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/btCb4z)
(https://preview.ibb.co/n1KZre/535_A2_BCF_34_C2_49_D9_B3_A1_0_F97_FABEA674.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b5Tijz)
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jigsaw puzzle all back together!
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blasted... getting fresh color
(https://preview.ibb.co/mPE24z/A61_E457_A_0_F62_44_A7_824_E_666_E2015_C3_E5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/kjvWxK)
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Dropped for exhaust today..
Wheels should be painted this week and rubber mounted..
;D
(https://preview.ibb.co/b74Xrp/9786_F79_D_99_F1_4592_93_FC_8_E7_B43_C40_A1_E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ioKbHU)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fRL5Bp/23_F88_EAA_184_E_4923_B21_F_5_E3_A24_EA2443.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eujXrp)
(https://preview.ibb.co/m6v5Bp/B732073_B_41_B8_4_B47_9746_1_E6_DAC5513_E0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mimCrp)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jhdgj9/7433_DB17_E84_F_432_E_BB9_F_4_F932212_D25_C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bE6qcU)
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Now waiting on truck
(https://preview.ibb.co/iP7S6z/8_D0_F9_B05_8992_4136_AC6_C_F123_D4_FDEEFB.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dkc5te)
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What tires are those?
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7.50 x 16 michelin XZL's
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At least it looks done..
(https://preview.ibb.co/d5qzmz/BFE13_BB9_F48_C_4835_84_B1_954973_A2_FC7_A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bPWTeK)
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Time for plates?
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Vintage plates... got them. And a sticker already
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Some first driving impressions... granted only up and down the street.
Clutch needs adjusting... not super smooth shifting unless you stomp on the clutch pedal
Brakes need adjusting... stopping takes some planning
Carb needs adjusting... idle, etc
1st gear almost not needed, can start in 2nd because of the low end torque in this motor
Top speed will be typical rover depending on rpm
Need to calibrate the rover sending unit / gauge to the Buick engine...
speedo not working, possibly missing drive gear
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this was the motor i pulled out of the jeepster?
cool!
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Vroom vroom 😉
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might not be related but might interest you
https://rochester.craigslist.org/pts/d/16-series-land-rover-wheels/6702080864.html
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Been debating picking those up
Cheap insurance of I want to ever run flotation tires...
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Hopefully a differential swap this weekend...(rear only for now)
The little bit of driving I have done has been over 3k rpm
Going from 4.70 series diffs to 3:54 Range Rover diffs...
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swapped the rear diff this weekend for a later Ranger Rover 3:54..
had to get creative and fill the axle through the vent.. didn't notice the lack of a fill plug until everything was all buttoned up..
Truck is much happier with the new gears.. first gear is usable and still punchy.
I took the front drive shaft out to prevent any unforeseen issues until I can get around to swapping the front. Rear took 90 min to R&R.. I have a feeling the front will take a tad longer.
Also got around to buttoning up the transmission tunnel.
This is version 1 of what will eventually be a single piece of bent aluminum..
plenty of room for 4wd levers..
(https://preview.ibb.co/f4LDd0/550-CE277-90-B4-4-F5-B-87-F5-05-CE7-D196-B84.jpg) (https://ibb.co/iHEH5f)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kHvqQf/FDA4-A242-0672-4-D51-85-A7-E221-C81478-AD.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dhf1WL)
(https://preview.ibb.co/h09H5f/049-C55-DA-C688-4-A8-A-8-E11-C5-A6-F239-B173.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cb5qQf)
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Clutch issue reared its ugly head last week..
After an uneventful afternoon of driving (some hard shifts) I lost clutch control..
the clutch would not disengage with the pedal depressed, and I was unable to shift transmission into gear..
I cursed and screamed about this for a week... thinking i would heave to tear into the truck again and that i had an issue..
finally got some time this AM to crawl under the truck and pull the slave cyl.
upon removal i noticed the slave rod was shorter than when it went into the truck..
despite the lock nut on the rod, I have a feeling the vibration of the odd fire wiggled this guy loose.
I haven't tested anything yet, going to throw a tack weld or 2 on the lock nut and reinstall tonight..
fingers crossed
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got back in the garage last couple weeks to start a refurb on the heater..
had the main housing blasted and core pressure tested.. couple of pinholes were revealed from trapped leaves.
JB weld to the rescue!
Blower motor disassembly wasn't ideal and I'm currently searching for parts..
Bulkhead hold cut and everything test mounted last night before final assembly.
there is some interference from the bonnet support and inner wing.. going to have to play around with both.
Heater moved outboard just enough that it misses the indents
Also the heater intake and hole in the wing don't exactly match up for a solid connection.. I'm thinking some ducting will be just fine there.
When mounting the heater core, there was some caulk type stuff on the fins of the core insulating it form the heater body.. is that just strip caulk or something else? would felt be better?
I already planned on using strip caulk for the flanges of the heater and interior distribution box.
just need a blower wheel now..
(https://i.ibb.co/pxFx9xD/5-D4-CE757-36-BF-4-C54-BC5-A-5-E69025-F3-E7-F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/t4r4W4f)
(https://i.ibb.co/7Qpff70/5-C14-AC29-20-CD-44-D8-8-B9-C-E0081-F2-BD00-F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sC1ffLX)
(https://i.ibb.co/YtPtMGb/2-E444-E0-D-7-BF8-4764-AC4-A-284808369-A73.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0fmfS3Q)
(https://i.ibb.co/ct1Trwm/F3383-D03-A9-BC-4900-B4-BD-B53-C786-CDD78.jpg) (https://ibb.co/QnfmKk5)
(https://i.ibb.co/tbW7B36/C701-E73-B-09-F9-4-B18-80-CB-AEAE0-D58083-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gDB5y68)
(https://i.ibb.co/0QW21qb/9-AE2-E080-BBD2-4-C15-970-C-FD1908-CA91-D0.jpg) (https://ibb.co/HXM4R78)
(https://i.ibb.co/k5DmVdG/1-BF39-F10-C990-40-FD-AD02-D72-D1-E0-E9-D05.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Cm9Pprw)
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whatever material that won't degrade too fast that seals around the edges and prevents rattles would be fine IMO. Something closed cell (not felt) probably better so it isn't as prone to holding moisture against the core and box is probably best?
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Spent an hour and half this week just opening boxes in the warehouse..
Make a long story short I found a correct sized wheel with a wrong hub offset... settled on a fairly common blower motor assembly that fit in the housing. After centering the wheel in the bore, drilled some holes and were good to go.
Used 3m strip caulk around the heater core (evidence it was there once before) and on all sealing joints.
Working on mounting, plumbing and the defroster ducts this weekend..
(https://i.ibb.co/SBQvNc0/F327-B6-F8-CA21-4-E2-F-A99-B-31-F81-FABD9-F3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WfDKn0F)
(https://i.ibb.co/9vNJXc9/2-FB3-AFAC-A8-C6-475-A-878-A-696-A371-E425-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/fS2bRqY)
(https://i.ibb.co/Z6kGHbL/4-A522-F88-1-FDE-49-A0-8-E4-C-8-EA0143-F3-E97.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vxKVsMw)
(https://i.ibb.co/6vQDRNg/0-E0025-F9-BF30-4404-B092-A214-C4-F6-B353.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tZRYM38)
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Engine bay not 100% yet, but it just looks like it was meant to be in there
(https://i.ibb.co/7WtNBfq/B0-B8-C6-DC-E89-B-4-CEA-8-A9-B-B94-B0-F84384-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hWF1r6S)
(https://i.ibb.co/yn1HcsG/E66-B4-E14-11-E3-4-D99-893-C-F8-D1-A564-D2-FD.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ccH4STM)
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Finally swapped the front diff to the higher gears.. installed front driveshaft and fabbed shifters.
No modesty... I’m proud of this..
Very close to stock appearance...
Ideally I would like to fabricate a one piece tuner cover and get the range (red) shifter tighter..
Didn’t caulk yet, I have a feeling it’s all coming apart for tweaking..
(https://i.ibb.co/4p0vCWz/2-C26-DAA5-1-CBE-47-AD-A3-FD-C6-F71326342-E.jpg) (https://ibb.co/GRrYG7y)
(https://i.ibb.co/SdYZHW7/F52-C9-E79-964-C-4696-99-E3-74-AD0-EF0-C7-D1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s6xXckJ)
(https://i.ibb.co/XtZXnGx/C2-DECE6-A-E639-40-F6-AA33-0-DA71742510-F.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cQcJWsh)
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UTV soundbar mounted under dash... looks about 100 times better than I thought and easily removable..
(https://i.ibb.co/5xTfysg/8-B1-E727-F-132-B-4-E87-9329-F4-C5-C798-CCEE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WpnYwB4)
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Looks like it belongs there. No issues with leg clearance?
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fit perfectly.. 10" either side of bulkhead center.
Pulled the Radiator last night..
fried my electric fan.. motor burned up so I have to check wiring as well.
Doing something a little less rinky dink this time around.. fingers crossed..
(https://i.ibb.co/CJP92vn/B8-D55555-AC7-B-4-AD5-AA25-70-CB4-F0-E5-E27.jpg) (https://ibb.co/z862JbS)
2010 subaru impreza wrx sti 0 60 (https://statewideinventory.org/subaru-0-60-times)
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Some underhood managment this weekend...
Cooling system was a PITA to burp after rad removal.
Pics and update to follow...
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need a little help...
I want to install a warning light or buzzer for the engine fan as either a reminder to turn on or warning light if it shuts down..
I've found some diagrams for an indicator light (simple enough) but I cant seem to find anything for a warning lamp.
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LED indecator light between ignition hot and fan hot would do the trick?
or maybe thinking about that for more than 2 seconds might prove im a mechanical guy?
ign on fan on, LED sees +12 and +12 so no light
Ign on fan off LED sees +12 and 0V so light on
Ign off and fan off LED sees 0V and 0V
maybe? ha
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all the hot rods i have done, i just wire the fan relay to the ignition. its on the fans on. no issues no mishaps. let that 28$ 16" amazon fan suck 7 amps all day long.
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went with the bigger fan
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btw... electrical issues sorted out...
as always, it was the grounds
all the hot rods i have done, i just wire the fan relay to the ignition. its on the fans on. no issues no mishaps. let that 28$ 16" amazon fan suck 7 amps all day long.
that will prob be the answer.. im moving to a capillary gauge so i can take the guesswork out of it.. screwing around with an almost 50 year old gauge and different sending units inst for me..
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fan on a manual switch is a recipe for future mistakes. I encourage either wire with ignition, or put on a thermostatic controller that's on ignition power.
I have yet to fix this shortcoming in 571 and have regretted it at least 3-4 times so far. It's a 1-2 times per year mistake.
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yeah I'm likely going to move that way...
not enough water ports on the dauntless for a temp switch without making a mess..
rear hose port on intake where I would split it hasn't budged in several decades..
machine shop didn't bother removing so who am I to bother it..
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love the brolite.
master disconnect switch on and push button for start.
no gages
no switches
go till it stops.
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throw maybe a 160 on/145 off in the upper rad hose if you don't have a good engine port?
I do like the simple-switch bro.
I've got master disco, ignition on which includes everything, and a start button.
Had gauges but I think they've finally all died.
I do want a shift light again, need a better quality one that lasts longer than one race.
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hit the (documented) 500 miles mark
no complaints... still have to calibrate the speedometer
will need a bigger (custom) radiator this winter.. I have a feeling there inst enough coolant in the system and im getting cavitation on long highway runs
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well ....
speedo still needs to be calibrated..
still need to address cooling for summer hwy travel
new to note.. I keep blowing the electric fan relay.. been through 2 this summer..
just keep a spare in the truck.. solved that problem
travels 70 MPH on drum brakes and 2001 vintage XZL military tires :o
forgot how a short wheelbase, light 4x4 feels after hitting some not well paved roads.. ::)
the dauntless is just perfect in this truck.. should have done this swap in the 109 years ago..