M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on February 20, 2013, 01:09:15 PM
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Until it earns a new name...
<Edited to remove broken images. Doesn't look like I saved them>
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1700 RPM at 65 indicated.
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When do you pick it up?
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congrats....
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I knew it, seen that cl post deleted! Nice!
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When do you pick it up?
I land at CLT at 0845 on Saturday 3/16
Matt, I need to look at the front of your truck next week. I'm probably going to be flat towing a 3rd gen back north with me - Chad's wife's future truck, no drivetrain in it - will be getting a 12v. I'll ship my tow bar down there once we whip up some brackets.
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Do it like the big boys and strap a saddle mount on the front axle, lift 'er up, lock the pin, and go. ;D :o ;D
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Awesome truck, take the Smarty out and leaving all stock, then it will last forever.
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that'd be awesome Mark! I don't think Aaron has the needed crane though
I think it needs a tuner to run right deleted.
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That makes sense, I guess its ok then. ;D
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Congrats Michael.
I especially like the lack of Bed Sides! ;)
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Pics are X'd. What was this rig?
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guess Aaron cleans out his photobucket. I think I saved 'em
'07 3500 6.7 6sp 4x2, 352k. White quad cab, black CM flatbed. Cab & Chassis truck.
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factory rated at 350hp/610tq. exhaust braking rated at 150hp.
the '11 trucks got the next power bump, to 350/800, and 222hp braking. Must be a different turbo to increase exhaust braking that much.
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braking rated in HP thats COOL
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The '11 AUTO transmission trucks got the bump.
Due the the factory clutch andtransmission TQ rating the manual trucks are still 610 or 650tq ( I can't remember which).
My exhaust brake works well.
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ah, torque management needed to make the driveline live. makes sense. I thought that seemed like a big bump
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Should be a sweet hawg!!
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Looked at final drive ratios today - it's like going 2nd-4th-5thOD-somewhere between 6O and 7-8O. Nice splits, and I think it'll work out really great on the whole, gearing-wise. I'm going to be running a very slightly taller tire - going for 245s, and I've got them picked out. Should get them on not much after I have the truck here.
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id like to borrow two 19.5 duals for a night if possible when your are swapping. want to do some more playing with my truck now that i have tires and wheels, and something else that needs machine work from vic
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I was thinking of throwing 16s on DB in the interim, so I could freshen paint and get the new rubber mounted. Maybe I'll think harder about that.
You prefer 225 or 245?
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225 is fine, thats what ill be rolling
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guess Aaron cleans out his photobucket. I think I saved 'em
'07 3500 6.7 6sp 4x2, 352k. White quad cab, black CM flatbed. Cab & Chassis truck.
saw pics on FB. Nice rig!
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i seem to recall you mentioning possible inspection issues with the egr blockoff? i assume you have a hookup already, but if you dont my buddy does inspection. as long as it will plug in its good.
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has aaron gotten it to pass since the block off? most tuners of then gen plug into the OBDII port like Matts right?
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Diesel trucks in NY do not need emissions testing, No need to worry.
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i am not up to date on the laws- i thought newer trucks had something that required a plug in
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Over 8600 gross is exempt, right?
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Over 8600 gross is exempt, right?
The NYVIP is a program that includes a check of on-board diagnostic system (OBDII) on non-exempt vehicles that have a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) less than 8,501 pounds and that are:
Model year 1996 or newer gas-powered vehicles; or,
Model year 1997 or newer diesel-powered vehicles.
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shit so if i put 1 tons under my ZJ and register it for 9500lbs i dont have to check emisions! scoorre!
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I didn't think my 02 Jetta got plugged in. I thought all diesels were exempt.
If that were to change change it should still pass a plug-in. Checks are disabled in the ECM with the tune. Otherwise it's be a limp mode machine.
Roadside inspection would be the potential issue. I've not heard of that for non-CMVs. Yet.
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Edge Insight CTS ordered for gauges.
Tires are at Talmadge, probably end up going over there with the truck once I have it since I don't think I can get (6) 245r19.5s in/on/around St. Michael comfortably.
Nothing else is an immediate 'must'
THMotorsports has the best price on them by $20, btw, plus has a 10% discount coupon on them.
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Pics are X'd. What was this rig?
I did find 2 that I saved. back in the first post.
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All right, NOW I'm ready. Let's do this!!
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love it... dont even have it yet and dropping coin...
who do you think you are... ME!!
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gots to have gauges!!
I'll be able to see the true vitals except EGT on the way home with just a plug to the OBD port.
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that many miles and never had an EGT gauge?
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it was bone stock to 320k. has 30k on the delete and tuner (and turbo, injectors, head job). hopefully it's gentle and all good, from what I've been told about how it drives and absolutely can't be made to smoke, I expect it is.
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Doing some reading on autoexpiditer, the g56 doesn't have a better rep than the nv4500... case flex leads to spun bearings. there are case girdles and coolers available.
cross that bridge when I come to it!
http://lazarsmith.com/Transmission.html
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Ohhhhhh boy here we go again!!
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Girdle is interesting but pricey. What's the feedback on them?
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haven't seen any feedback on them. for that price I'd put in an Eaton post-failure
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Ohhhhhh boy here we go again!!
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Would you go with the 13 speed again or something more simple like my 6 speed
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When are you getting it?
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I don't need a double overdrive in this truck. If I'm going through the work of the swap though, I really want low and high reverse gear, and closer gear splits. I think I'd aim for something newer and quieter for the newer quieter truck; RTLO have helical cut gears and run cooler and quieter with less friction... I'm not sure how small a case they come in though, I don't know if there's a 6 or 66 class RTLO. I'd stick with a twin countershaft if I could and I love the ranges. Splitting is sweet but nowhere near needed for the wide power band of the Cummins.
I'm picking it up Saturday. I fly out of ROC at 0600, really short layover at BWI, and land at CLT at 0845.
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So for the common man.. 6 or 13 speed?
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8 or 10! ranges FTW. Splitter (13/18) for show.
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So we abuse our jeeps and they break. So we build them up. Do you just need a big boy truck instead of a 1 ton? Or do you abuse your transmission. This tranny swap thing baffles me.
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I can't do what I do with a big boy truck. so I build up a 1 ton.
weight and power are abuse, yes. so a cummins and what I do abuses a transmission.
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ya, we need big trucks that only weigh 7500lbs
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I don't think I'm going to run an aux tank on this truck. Better economy and 52 gallons is probably good enough for my taste, so I'm going to aim for a clean flatbed.
I don't know for certain yet if 18*18 underbody boxes will fit well but I'm hoping so. If they do, I've got a wide range of options. It looks like a 24" would fit behind the drives and a 36" in front. If I put all 4 on, that would be wildly more storage than I have now with a single tool box. I'm sure I could find more than enough crap to fill it.
I've priced out a few options, raw aluminum diamondplate would be a bit over a grand, and about 150#. I could get black steel off the shelf at TSC for $760 and just under 300#. There are some full stainless, and stainless-doored steel options too, around the weight of steel and around the price of aluminum. It'd be nice to find a Bawer, RCI, and Buyers dealer local so I could go touch 'em and compare to the TSC steel.
The weight isn't as much of a difference as I expected, but it'd be nice to have them stay looking nice for a couple years and I think that takes full steel off the table in this neighborhood.
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I think 18" might be a little too low though, that's more that half the tire height. I found a limited selection of plain black steel in 14" height too, only 24 and 30" length.
(http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TBM050.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TB131.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TB174.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TBM070.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TB301.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TBM060.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TBM040.jpg) (http://www.truckntow.com/images/Product/icon/TB611.jpg)
(http://bb.m4wdfabrications.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=762.0;attach=1098;image)
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i was thinking.... that steel deck looks like it would support a bridge port a lot better than my bed.....
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Go steel and keep up on them with paint. They'll last longer than you'll own...
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i was thinking.... that steel deck looks like it would support a bridge port a lot better than my bed.....
By a long shot. Not sure what the tie down situation on it is but there are for sure some stake pockets at least.
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Go steel and keep up on them with paint. They'll last longer than you'll own...
I don't know about that. The lids on my steel box went to shit all at once, from inside the folds. It went from looking OK to perforation in maybe 3 months.
That box is about 8 years old, and it wasn't on the road in the salt for more than half of that time. To say nothing of relative location and road spray on top of the bed vs surrounding the drive tires.
I don't see steel lasting well. Maybe with some seam sealer, plus the paint. Maybe. I'd be more than happy to spend an extra couple hundo on future maintenance savings and keeping it looking nicer, longer.
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It's getting an interior detail at deltasonic right now. I can only put up with so much of other people's dirt.
List that I came up with on the drive home follows. The codes wouldn't clear with the Edge for some reason, but were gone after I adjusted some settings with the Smarty Jr. They didn't come back on the 2 mile drive here. Not sure if they were flukes or occasionals. We shall see.
Washer fluid after the inside is clean.
High miler to do list
Px mirror glass
Missing backup light
Vent visors
Ebrake
Cruise
Seat cushion & covers
Interior detail
Tool boxes
Mud flaps
Trailer electrical socket
Paint wheels
Tires
Aux lighting
New HD drawbar (proper drop)
Change bed/goose?
Tint
Front air dam
HVAC & radio backlights
DTCs
- P040B (egr temp sens circ 1 underperformance)
- P1506 (crankcase depression regulator valve performance)
- P2267 (water in fuel sens circ high)
Washer fluid
Washer fluid light
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It feels like I just took the gears out. I missed getting it in gear on Jefferson at a light and romped on it a lil. Something went thunk.
Fuck me! I may be placing telephone calls, or I may ignore it and go drink. Made it into a parking lot and Kim is in her way here
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The interior cleaned up pretty good!
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Yup, stripped r&p
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At least you are home with it and not somewhere south of the Mason-Dixon...
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Well that was quick!
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wow.. way too quick
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What?
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Not acceptable!
It's got a broken cross pin, stripped gears, or a broken axle shaft.
I'll be asking a favor of a truck tomorrow night. Gotta finish mounting a winch tonight when I get home from celebrations, then pull shafts and then pull a cover.
Long story short I took off hard on Jefferson once when I missed being in gear when the light turns green and I had a healthy clunk. Clunk repeated, waaaay worse maneuvering around a parking lot.
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what are you going to do?
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Well that sucks
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Dump truck axle? :)
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Commercial drivers license class 8 truck problem solved
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Omg
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I didn't even jinx this one yet:D
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!!! bad luck, corrective action? Is that a Dana 80?
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AAM 11.5 I believe.
Broken axle shaft. Best option. Just need to tear cover off and clean out. Aaaand find a replacement. Things to shop for tmw
Thanks for recovery help smike!
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That seems strange
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http://www.amazon.com/DODGE-11-5-Float-SHAFT-40-19/dp/B0078U8V9M ?
Gotta make sure carrier is happy and bolts are tight.... Could have hurt the axles when the rear end blew up initially.
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Was it just a broken shaft or also a stripped r&p? Seems real weird to break that easy and not towing anything.
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awesome looking truck on exterior.
scary sounding bling clutch that i would have walked away from lol
purrs nice.
hopefully its just a 200$ ebay shaft and some gear oil and she wont need a dump truck rear axle swap.
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11.5" AAM axle
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http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-2743-40042351-gm-aam-115-oe-axle-shaft-dual-wheel-wide-track.aspx?cagpspn=pla
~150$ shipped
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or upgrade. looks to be common problem with that axle. only 30 spline?
http://www.righttoolusa.com/p/Aam-Dodge-11-5-Rear-Full-Float-Axle-Shaft-Drw-40-19-L-R-10501418.html?gclid=CJHuwKGlhrYCFQdU4AodqBcAgg
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Just get yourself a civic and call it a day
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HAHAH...
the Dana 35 of the owing world.....
I see a 2 speed eaton axle in there shortly...
fuck it... 4x6!!!!
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mike and i were laughing about bus axles and dumptruck axles on the recovery mission
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Just get yourself a civic and call it a day
I'd break that too
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/mack-29-000-lb-single-axle-tow-truck-wrecker-dump-rear-/160452577173?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item255bb80795&vxp=mtr
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with 3.65 gears that'd be totally reasonable!
air ride is an absolute must though - but I bet I could sell those springs to Chadley!
I left Doug at Extreme a voicemail about an hour ago, no call back yet.
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The f550 rear axles are no joke!
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that sticker just renamed this project"incomplete" sounds fitting
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The f550 rear axles are no joke!
Dana S110!
I think 4.44 is the shallowest gear available. Maybe 4.10.
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Yukons will be ordered shortly. They have a purchasable lifetime nontransferrable warranty now.
I can get stock (probably 1040) for $112ea or 1541H for $155ea - warranty is $30 for either.
YESAXLE $30.29
Add a Lifetime protection plan to your axle purchase. The Yukon Extended Warranty Plan is a no questions asked warranty for your Yukon axle. This plan is good for as long as you own your vehicle. The plan is non-transferrable if the vehicle is sold.
with a spare shaft to have in the toolbox that seems like an easy choice to go for stock, doesn't it?
$352ea for 4340 chromo. same YESAXLE plan and price available.
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with a spare shaft to have in the toolbox
are they side specific?
i have no idea
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sweet, Doug called me back just before I was gonna push the button. He has them in stock and they're on the way. $10ea more that Randy's price but I'm more than happy to throw that Doug's way.
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with a spare shaft to have in the toolbox
are they side specific?
i have no idea
in a lot of axles you'll have a short and long side in the rear, but the AAM 10.5 and 11.5 use same length shafts.
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so was it just the axle...
how does the R&P look?
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id put two new shafts in and keep the old as a spare- road side change of that shaft could be 5 minutes or 5 hours. keep that in mind for tool box items.
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id put two new shafts in and keep the old as a spare
already executed.
road side change of that shaft could be 5 minutes or 5 hours. keep that in mind for tool box items.
Good call. I'd not thought of the potential complications part.
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so was it just the axle...
how does the R&P look?
Judging from lack of noise, perfect.
didn't pull the cover last night.
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we did some sweet harbor freight flux core welding last night to mount up the new winch!
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Shaft broke fully inside carrier. Expanded enough that it cracked the carrier. Not visibly into the splines, but cracked in two places.
Probably runable short term, but needs replacement.
Main bearing preload set like a 14b. Will be a cake swap. Would be nice to find one ASAP so I don't do this teardown twice.
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Gay. Call dodge, shouldn't be more than 150$
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Gay. Call dodge, shouldn't be more than 150$
150? that sounds like production cost.
this think is worth double digits in scrap, I can hardly lift it out of the damn diff! it's got to be close to 100# of quality steel, with lots of gears inside (helical limited slip)
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production cost is about 13$
150$ was my dealer guess lol
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production cost is about 13$
150$ was my dealer guess lol
multiply by ~15
parts dept cost $2635
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if thats a dodge PN I can get you a wholesale price
jsut for shits... whats the application on the complete rear end.. I can ask my guy at romano for a favor
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2600 retail I bet wholesale is 1300ish. I called Marina just now, same price given. p/n 68053666ab - system shows one in stock in Cleveland.
I just found an ARB listing as well (RD139). comparable price to the True Trac at $980 to my door from Autoplicity.
http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=24_47_455
http://autoplicity.com/products/558688-arb_rd139_air_locker.aspx
I'd somehow feel better about spending that money on a selectable locker instead of essentially a stock replacement part. I guess it's my upgrade-itis?
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Hold. I may have found something for you. I will text you.
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i have some contacts at AAM that are probably in Michigan i might be able to dig up and see if we could get a sample sent out...hmmm.
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I can get an arb to my door for cost plus shipping from mike at DnD. Think he said 880, and 50-70 in ship. If he does FedEx ill run shipping the cheapest route instead - but drop ship I probably don't have that option
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Man that is a expensive axle break
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tell me about it. this is fuckinretahded
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Run it.
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Then after unknown time it'll break, waste the shaft too, and strand me. sounds like a good plan, right?
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Run it.
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cary a ready welder quitcherbitchen
one wheel peal a lincoln locked tow rig!
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ARB will be on the way from East Coast Gear Supply ctsy of Mike at Down n Dirty.
ECGS had a cheaper truetrack than I'd found anywhere else too, but still too much in comparison to the ARB price.
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ARB seams silly, dont you need an air compressor now and bs?
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Because I don't have one of those already set up in the other truck? Beyond easy. Sucker is gonna end up parted out anyway, no bites. Annoying.
it'll be way more useful than a limited stuck in shittyness, and will be much nicer stability wise going down shitty roads. One wheel peel keeps you in a straight line. I was thinking about the white knuckle flat towing in PA and how an open rear diff would have been much safer on ice like that. That's what sold me.
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How'd we get from axle shaft to a fuckin ARB? Turn it off!
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because the broken axle shaft cracked the carrier and the fuckers A) don't seem to exist used and B) cost a fucking fortune new
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Hmm
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ARB will be sweet. Not like its a 3k pile.
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true dat
hurry up, bridgeports are moving haha
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you just cant win
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Civic.
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Smike, do you have right tools for pulling carrier bearings yet?
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Nope. And there really isnt. Does it have notches for punches like a 16 has?
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Harrys buddy Dan who has done a ton of gear setup swears by that one Randys sells.
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yeah, this guy.
www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/Randys_Carrier_Bearing_Puller_Review
looks good, I think last I looked it was about $150
I don't think there's good clearance on this carrier for punches or a two jaw.
and if I ever have to pull the bearings off the ARB there definitely won't be on the air side - but that's hopefully years and years down the road
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$370
http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5277&Product=YT_P20&Brand=Yukon_Gear_and_Axle
i think they rent them out for something almost reasonable.
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ouch
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$370
http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5277&Product=YT_P20&Brand=Yukon_Gear_and_Axle
i think they rent them out for something almost reasonable.
That looks like the one he has, and he loves it. He is able to re-use a lot of bearings.
Just tossin more bills at this thing
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Are the bearings $250 a piece or something on this apparently gold-cladded axle? Maybe it's worth it to buy the puller hahaha
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$60 retail from RockAuto for the carrier bearings (that have 3000 miles on them in this case).
National 3920 (race) & 3984 (bearing)
that's not a tool that pays for itself in one use. Have you pulled carrier bearings before? It's often a serious pain in the ass even when you're not planning to reuse them. The quick way is cut the cage, nick the race without nicking the case, and then crack it with a cold chisel, because usually a two jaw puller doesn't want to cooperate at all.
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bring the case to my shop and stick it in the band saw, pres the bearings off
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the carrier in 571 has these little notches that a long punch fit in. it mucks up any shims inbetween the race, but worked awesome to pop the bearings off.
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why would you ever want to re use bearings?????
for all the work required I would toss in a new set.. I have them here
I have removed carrier bearings with a press and a custom made arbor plate and a scrap of tube...
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can i ask a silly question... why cant you use a regular bearings puller?
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lack of clearance, clarence
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and it tweaks the race and destroys the bearing
they really arnt made to come off.
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Dump bus 2.0 for sure!
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if your gonna part out the dump bus why not swap axles, different gear ratios?or is it just a pain?
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disk brakes and new non rotted shat.
fix the broken bits, stop with the DB ;D
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Yup. Disks and desire of the 3.42s that are in it, not the stupid useless aside from grossing 50k 4.10s.
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Sweet big box with a pair of 4340 axle shafts was here waiting for me when I got home. Wait, 4340? Free upgrade ctsy Yukon drop ship mistake?
I just checked my CC recent activity and the price charged is what he quoted for 2 15whatever shafts, plus $40 in shipping. Total bill is roughly what one 4340 shaft retails for.
I should probably call Dean and let him know in case he sees anything funny on his end.
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Chad had a thought on the broken axle last night.
With 350,000 towing miles on them, they were probably pretty set in their stressed direction. If they were swapped side to side that could explain some pretty serious degradation in strength. They are equal length and were not marked.
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why would they have been swapped side to side?
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when the rearend was rebuilt - if they were just put in the same place, not marked. 50/50 chance.
just like Alex's tire rotation method! put em in a random pile and put em back on a couple times ;D
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i would disagree that side to side would matter
shat just broke
id still be interested if the gear set wore out, or if it was and impact break. i guess thats why i had shops i dont know doing work. Chances are the carrier and shaft didnt change much from when they did the gear setup and your little trip home...
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there are pinion tracks on one side of the case, I bet it ate pinion bearings.
agreed on hating others working on shat but unless you buy new that's just a risk that has to be accepted.
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bearings in my jeep for this
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Thanks, gentlemen.
Hopefully I'll be over to press them on in short order.
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when is arb coming?
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It'll be Monday unless it's late arrival today.
Got only my fancy g56 fluid today (so that can blow up next!)
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Why arb over elocker? Price?
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find one.
I couldn't. After I pulled the trigger, I was told there IS one - but I still can't find it.
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From what I've read (disclaimer: all hearsay. I have no personal experience with either :flipoff2: ) the ARB is superior to any other full case selectable. And for your price it's a no brainer.
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This thing is a sweet rototilling machine!! Locker works great. I didn't find switched power under the dash on the driver side (need to find the fuse box) so the trigger wire is on a constant power circuit. That could screw me someday (like the York on the Dakota) but it works like a champ. No tank, just the Thomas and the arb solenoid. It takes maybe half a second to charge the line and lock it. Compressor is in the toolbox; I left plenty of slack in the lines to reroute to an underbody toolbox later.
A heavy dually with a spool on pavement is a pretty notable beast.
It drives like a damn champ. I can't believe I've only had it for a week and have had to do this much to it - but it's almost whole again.
I got it out from behind the trailer but should have just left the trailer where it was. I got stuck but at least got the truck back out even on ~40% highway treads.(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/25/3urageny.jpg)
I didn't take a pic of the piece of gear tooth on the trans magnet :-/
I'll be keeping an eye out for a G56.
Fresh Gorilla Juice in the trans, temp sender installed, arb all set, 4340 Yukon shafts. The only thing I didn't get to was drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold for the pyrometer.
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your poor neighbors
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your poor neighbors
I agree
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noooice
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mike...
in all honestly and I know you have good neighbors...
drop some of your shit off until the ruts clear up...
somebody is bound to notice and all you need is one asshole..
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yeah I gotta get that trailer back where it belongs.
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i would get it far away.. drop off at nuway for all i care...
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i can help with functional 4x4 if you need.... wait dont you almost have a 42 dakota out back? lol
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save up some coin and lets widen your driveway so it is useable for anything other than a honda and also bring it back along side the garage.
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What Nick said is truth
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what Nick said will never fly in brighton...
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Brighton doesn't allow wide gravel driveways? ???
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from what I know about mikes house his property line is right there....
cant do that...
you also cant expand your driveway more than a certain percentage... I believe its 30... from the original footprint on record with the town.. something about a ratio of paved to unpaved..
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nor can you have trailers and several unregistered vehicles lol
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yeah but those can be mvoed with a warning....
other things require permits or assesments...
towns can be real funny baout certain shit... found some of this out the hard way..
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i think theres been warnings hahaha
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i can help with functional 4x4 if you need.... wait dont you almost have a 42 dakota out back? lol
dead battery, flat tire.... bah.
it was an hour to park the trailer (I set it down on the very tail of of the flatbed and drove it right up) and fix-ish the lawn. Easy.
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I can't bring an actual driveway back along the garage, I'm on 8' or 10' setback on that lot line with a gracious neighbor.
both of those trees are coming down next month. I'd like to re-grade and widen the driveway after the maple is out. my driveway is in SHIT condition even ignoring its width. something to investigate this summer.
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Do driveways count with setback requirements? Or just structures?
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I don't know what permitting requirements would be for a repave/ slight expansion - but if a permit is required I'm pretty sure I would not be able to go a foot OVER the property line which is what would be needed to bother if the setback is what I think it is.
I need to go through my purchase paperwork before my refi meeting thursday to look for a few things, I think I have the drawing in there that I'm thinking of.
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who are you refi with? I can get you in @ GRB if your shopping around..
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Visions FCU
2.6% 15yr fixed. I'm happy.
Refi some other debt at 4.79% 5yr fixed/ no origination fee too. I'm really liking this place.
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All set on plates and stickers over lunch today, just need to clean things off and affix them where they all belong.
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Useful fire alarm.
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Looks sweet and the white will hide the salt.
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Hide salt/ show rust!!
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ya white and rust is not a good look
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Please put in some fog lights. I hate fog light caps.
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Down the list since the lights aren't bad at all esp for 2 bulb. I agree.
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Gotta rebuild the goose hitch on this bad boy. Under spec'd for previous life, and future usage.
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Tahrs are schweet
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/30/4u3a9ura.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/30/hede3e4e.jpg)
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Didn't do too badly with the first real load. I can definitely tell its shallower gears, and it seems I'm at 100% at about half pedal, the rest of travel doesn't do much. I'll be in 5th on real hills no doubt. I was in 3rd through downtown list to keep it above 1500 at 40. Haha.
Tires are about 5.9% taller.
Can definitely tell the tires are wildly heavier too. Above 60 is ride degrades a bit. Can tell the additional unsprung rotating weight is there. Very little squirm though especially compared to the last new set. Duals are close but made no contact, they're at 105psi. May drop that a bit. Jared, what would you say would be safe minimum? 90? I was thinking of trying 90 rear 100 front and see if it smooths out a bit. The shoulders of the drives don't touch empty right now. Steers do.
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Looks good
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Where's the subies goin?
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I can get you some inflation tables Monday. Should show you exactly where you should be.
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who you towing for?
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Auction buys for jake out of Adesa Syracuse.
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She looks good.
HdR's are rubbing on the rear?
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http://www.michelintruck.com/michelintruck/tires-retreads/load-inflation-tables.jsp
Under 19.5's look at the xds2 in your size. Should give you a nice idea of where you should be for best wear and fuel mileage.
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She looks good.
HdR's are rubbing on the rear?
no evidence of touching each other at 105psi with the load of Subis.
they tuck inside the railing of the bed, they've got miles of clearance for travel.
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All the way down to 75psi? wow. Things to try!
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i run 90 on my truck, its good.
i have had a vibe since they were new at 47mph
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new bottom driver seat cushion is out for delivery today. Need to pull the seat and patch the seat cover. that steel frame is COLD on the side of my leg for a couple minutes on a cold night.
px mirror glass is on backorder, but my second favorite supplier had one in stock so that's ordered.
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i run 90 on my truck, its good.
you have a shorter wheelbase. also, the bad section of 90 near BUF is after 190, and between x40 and I481 this side of cuse. those are both better with this truck than dumpbus (I'm 6" longer now. and yes she likes it)
the approaching-Victor piece of 490 is much worse in this truck than the last.
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If I'm empty, that new concrete section between Weedsport and Syracuse is BRUTAL with my truck (and our empty box truck at work). You can barely carry on a conversation it shakes you so bad. Add a load and it's fine. Stupid cement.
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stupid pavement crew, cement can be well done.
when Troy and I went to Air Cooled in NJ I tried every speed from 40 to 80 and it was unbearable at any of them.
loaded coming back was OK
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Thinking about this to solve my gooseneck issue.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Valley/V69890.html
It's "only" rated for 25k/5k, but looking at scale tickets I think ~5k is the most tongue weight I've ever had. Need to see how 12x14.5" will work with the existing deck hole, I think pretty well. I'm assuming the size is close to the Reese version. http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Reese/8339.html
A turnover is the other option, this Reese without rails is a very nice price and rated for 30k/7.5k. No dimensions given and I'm not sure how I'd modify it to actuate from above the bed.
http://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck/Reese/9460.html
For a little more money yet, this one wouldn't need any modification to use from above the bed. I can't help but think that a sliding pin mechanism would get shitted up a lot faster than a tilt ball mechanism.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Draw-Tite/6300.html
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i was displeased with my B&W latch. both mine and Matts suck and you need two people to opperate, or some bungi cord paint scratching bushmechanicry
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if you are looking for something stationary under the bed I have one very similar to this:
http://www.buyautotruckaccessories.com/product.cfm/cf-bin/pn.curt-over-bed-bent-plate-gooseneck-hitches/
sitting in my barn I would sell to you for $50(plate ball and stationary loops) It was originally in my 98 F150 I can get you the measurements tonight.
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if I'm going to do that I'll just steal parts from my existing setup on dumpbus...
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or look at curt
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Curt C-52?
didn't see them until I looked by brand. they have a few others too. that's a 30k/6k folding ball.
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C52 = new number 61052
$120.. in dayton..
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Sold!
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Fold down balls are a pain in the ass.. I have never seen one the did not require hammer or prybar to maneuver.. Keep a stationary under the bed
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It seems like so little material there to pull 25k
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rotted out fold down balls suck.
mine and matts B&W work easy other than needing a second hand to pull the lever
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Boy that's a lot of hate on fold downs. Seems so simple...
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i looked at 3 fords with them, i couldnt not physically get them up with a 4 way pry hahaha
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those are not resounding reviews. I am tempted to blame lack of PM but I never grease anything, either.
Anything with pins on linkages seems like it should get terrible quickly too, though. and I'd be drilling holes through the flatbed frame to run any of those handles over to the dirtynastyness of the wheel well.
this looks really spiffy, retractable instead of turnover.
http://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck/Curt/C60640.html
meh. The folding look so simple and pry-able. what can possibly go wrong?
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i will agree i have taken a propane torch to my goose ball iced to the bed more times than shot it with grease or WD hahah
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My fold down ball works flawless. It might have to do with the random I would say 5-10 gallons of different types of oil that spill in the bed every year that keeps that baby running smooth!
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Pyro probe finally installed. A project I'm sure my neighbors did love me for.
Crowded in there.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/05/zubumyhe.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/05/huge6asy.jpg)
I dropped the damn (non magnetic) fitting and had to take the intake off the turbo. Getting that piece out was more annoying than tearing a rear hub off for naught.
Ebrake will be happy again once I get seals. Parts all look good but the friction material is all gone, and oil soaked to boot, at least on the px side.
New hitch all set. Receiver in the bed is pretty sloppy. It's been a lil abused.
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rotted out fold down balls suck.
mine and matts B&W work easy other than needing a second hand to pull the lever
Must be an open bed / rochester salt thing. I remove my ball from my B&W when not in use on my F350. Handle works fine after 2 years.
We also have the curt 30k turnover on the F550. Works perfect with normal greasing. I have noticed a little wear and on the ball & pin but it disappears after greasing. 70k of nothing but towing... nothing too unexpected. My buddy @ Custom Truck Creations was looking into a replacement ball pin but I think we both forgot.
But I guess once again... this truck and hitch never see salt.
Id say buy a case of spray lube from Nuway and rock on. ;D
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haha, i have tons of those feruls and crap
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$3.629 cash at the res.
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Locker not good enough. Stuck after washing truck and trailer. Tried too hard before giving up and had to recruit help to drive the truck while I winched w the Dakota. Pull, pull w driving, winch alone wasn't good enough. No good point on this rig for a good snatch (I'm stuck hooking the front axle) and I couldn't find my strap anyway.
Dakota can't hook to the trailer either. Too tall, too little clearance. Had to safety chain it to the front bumper to move it.
That was an hour of fml. At least the trailer looks great. White Eagle is going in it tonight followed by Ram parts worth saving for sale.
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Maybe we should have capped some serious mud terrains for you. Can we come bogging in your yard? ;D
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It's only a worthy bog for 4x2s. Bring your box trucks.
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dakota lives yessssss
she is readdy for mud truck spectating!
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I don't know if Kim took any pictures, I told her she had to bear witness to the potential end of the enclosed trailer... it was adequate dumbness.
I should see if the Dakota starts today, and if not throw a Dump Bus battery in it along with the replacement battery cables it'd need to have a non-sidepost battery.
No power steering at all. needs work. bah.
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i seem to have battery cables and used batteries galore these days if you need stuff. Threw a new to me 11' battery in wonder 2.0 yesterday!
Dont wreck things, call Matt or I with 4x4 lol
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I have two good Oct '12 batteries, they just don't have handles on them and are annoying to carry to the back yard!
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She's definitely a keeper. Definitely.
Just need to decide on how dark on this one
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wow... 10+ years and my wife still has yet to get my anything car related...
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5% yo!
That guys prices are sooo crazy! that would be 350 at the tint shop. not to mention it will be done by time you walk to the coffee shop and back
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I did 20% on the sides and 5% back window on Sr. I think I'll do a little less this time, 35% and 20% maybe? Rear is the same as the front sides, 75%. Rear sides are probably 35% or so.
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i think 35 and 20 are good. my jeep had 18% (measured by a nice gentleman as he gave me a ticket) on the fronts and was too dark at night.
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i might have to rock out the 5.9 for those prices
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I bet the fronts on Sr measure to 15 or so, rears all 3%ish. It's nice 90% of the time. All except night time parking lot maneuvering.
Jetta had a purple tie-certified 33% all the way around, probably 50% film over stock glass. That was really light. I had been thinking of just matching the stock rear side windows which should be ~35%...
Descisions!
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your eyes can detect 3% huh? lol
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Back glass is 5% film over factory 73%. Rear sides are 20% over factory 35% and are a good visual match
Do the math! (it says the back is half the transmission of the sides but feel free to gloss over that part)
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Hitch looks like it'll work well. Need to build out a box, the stringers are a few inches further apart than I was hoping for.
Hopefully I can get a hand on that from smike at some point. Cut out the old, weld in the new!
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Hitch'll be done tomorrow. Looks "easy" - which means I have NO idea where it'll go wrong :)
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Easy = time consuming. Couple feet of 2x2x1/4, couple yards of welding. Many thanks and probably half a spool of wire owed to sir smichael!(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/23/jahesy2u.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/23/a3a7amyq.jpg)
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Old hitch was fine (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/23/atemyqe3.jpg)
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Wow.. Def needed changed!
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PPD
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Not PPW at all. With that PPD it would have LONG since vacated.
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PPD?
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PPD?
Thanks Mark, curious myself haha
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PPD piss poor design
PPW piss poor welding
every failure is one or the other
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Did some sweet touring of Centralia yesterday in this hog. Went further across the top of town above the dump than ever before. It comes out on a twisty paved back road above Asheville.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/06/ujy7a8e5.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/06/ezege2un.jpg)
Spent a couple hours hanging with the Kellers last night too. Fucking awesome time
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/06/metuhuvu.jpg)
Guess which is the wig
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Liar I did not see you last night
I would like to check out centralia one if these days
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You should grow out your hair.
Tapatalking in traffic
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I'm down for a trip there too, have never been.
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It's changed a bit from the first time we were three. Couple fewer houses, more road damage & graffiti. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/06/qu5e2egy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/06/jyty9e3e.jpg)
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more info please..
what and where is this?
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centralia,_Pennsylvania
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alll the mine fire place...
yeah I was hooked on finding ghost town in NY a while ago...
went to one in the catskills...
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i didn't realize the town was that large
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did you happen to see the penis trial? someone had way too much time on their hands...
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5102/5680735437_da8e85589a_z.jpg)
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saint Micheal was there :o
(http://members.toast.net/rikoster/photos/Eagle/Centralia/IMAG0252.jpg)
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I think that's on the other side of where we were. that road is COVERED from one end to the other, not at all like the first time we were there.
There are some fresh repairs to the non-rerouted road, and it looks like the cemetery is having a new rear entrance prepared; I think they're going to have to move more of hwy 61.
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funny.
I made a mild attempt to get onto the closed road but my first effort got me frame contact so I backed off. slight adjustment I probably could have driven right over, or it looked like the north side had an easier entrance.
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ok thank a lot for making me waste an hour looking through google pics! back to work
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you're welcome!
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Erik and I spent a rainy dreary day exploring Centrailia. There are a ton of abandoned coal roads. We found some fun ones on the east side of town - the side we hadn't been to before with the club.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Hubs torn down. Seal in pieces on the leaking side. Edge of the drum is cracked all over too. At least 4-5 places. Driver side is 90+% shoes & good seal, must just be out of adjustment.
Have a bent rear swaybar link.
Truck came with a spare rear rotor so I'm all set. Just nasty seal leak cleanup to do.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/19/bara6eza.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/19/uhuva8yt.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/19/reba3aqu.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
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never followed up on this stuff I guess....
Since the driver side was in great shape, I didn't change any parts on that side. Adjusted both and the ebrake works great!
Lowered all tires to 75psi, it rides much nicer than at 105. That should be approx. right for the front axle and is probably still WAY more than I need for the rear. I'll have to keep an eye on tire bulge when I get a heavy trailer on there again to make sure sidewalls aren't contacting. They're relatively close but with the combined weight rating still around 12,000# at 75psi I don't expect much bulge.
Finally caught a replacement airbag cheap so I have a pair of them coming. Apparently on the slow boat from china with a mid-June est. arrival.
Found a cheap set of vent visors on fleabay too. "free money" spent on both of these things with Discover rewards and some un-transferred truck parts money in the paypal acct.
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Found a cheap set of vent visors on fleabay too.
Fools think 2500 and 3500 have different cabs. Lol.
Mega or quad? Confirm. /conversation ::)
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Pupster & sleep shelf constructed last night. It splits an tucks under the rear seat when not in use
Needs front legs trimmed and installed. it'll get some pad and carpet at some point.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/24/9ata7ypa.jpg)
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i like that. double use!
this way he wont piss on the seat ;)
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easy cleanup is key! as will be stopping every 45m-hr on the way home :)
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dollar store towels.... about 20 of them....
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crate
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Be ready for the nights up with the puppy crying all night. Bring a blanket or see if they have one that you can wipe over the mother and other dogs to get the sent on it to help comfort the puppy in its cage.
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what a waste of time!
plywood in the beautiful truck o my!
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plywood was happening anyway, that bench is way too small to sleep on.
he'll be coming home in a crate - we'll have to see how he travels... have plenty of old towels and some blankets for him. good idea to grab mom's scent.
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well looks like the "dump" half will be achieved soon...
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Asshole ::)
Tapatalking in traffic
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Picked up our dog in Massachusetts. Drove it the 4 hours home took it out to pee when it got home that's it. Its a dog...they are resilient.
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they smell
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puppies pee, my goal is to avoid this in my truck. I'll go ahead and minimize my risks.
how old was yours Alex?
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3 months
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That's a big difference from 2 months.
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Found out the cluster will report hours. Avg lifetime speed 46mph. 358k now.
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the 4300 has 367K and 5700hrs or so i think it said
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I swapped to the economy tune this weekend. 250 mi to Albany averaging 77 netted 18.3 on the overhead
Didn't reset.
65-67 on the way back it was up to 19.6, so ~21.3 avg.
Be interesting to see what pump numbers give me and if the overhead is still the usual 10-15% optimistic.
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it took me 3 times to read how you calculated and justified that lol
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hahaha me too
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it was like one of those 7th grade jonny went to the store and bought 3 times more than his sister bought yesterday on sale algebra word problems
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Lol.
If you know a and c, and that c is the average of a and b...
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Turndowns kinda suck. 4 dead spots like this from when I was jumping the Dakota. Two the truck only idle for ~5 min.
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Don't worry the dog will make that patches seem normal
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Yeah they are a match – it was just four created in one day instead of one created over four days.
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Where's your grass? :P
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Between the clover... Don't judge!
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Found these.
http://www.cjcoffroad.com/product_p/cjc-flbk.htm
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We are buying a bunch of brackets from them.
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I'd rather fab my own to mount round. I'm not sure that truck needs any more light. For as rarely as I'd get to take advantage of it the factory lights on that thing are great.
I'm still keeping an eye out for the proper trim rings though. I would like a pair of those HIDs in there. Not a fan of the square-peg-in-round-hole look.
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I dont like it either, just throwing options out that I find.
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much appreciated! stuff I'd not see otherwise.
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Charging system error of some sort.
Check gauges came on and stayed on leaving for dog class today, PIII told me I was at 12.1v. Let it idle through class since I wasn't 110% sure about restarting. Got home at 11.75v. No defrost and having to crack a window was a bit annoying. Nothing obviously loose or disconnected. Have had it on 15a charge for 2 hours now... Alt looks like a pain to remove w some egr cooler remains in the way.
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Scrap yard time!!
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A wire brush fixed my zj!
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A wire brush fixed my zj!
I thought you'd tried cleaning terminals. Good news!
These terminals look absolutely pristine. Low and steady voltage while running points strongly to alternator IMO.
I still have the one from Dumpbus. I give that a 4% chance of fitting.
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1472/overview/
17$ sorry, dont remember what this was for but....
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thats a $12 valve!
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way over $1/#...
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Been fighting with the trailer wiring on this since I realized backup lights didn't go through to the plug. The back on the existing socket is all potted so I can't pull it apart and fix it. I think they cut the back off a normal one to make it fit where it was so I need to poke a hole and relocate it. I cut a hole in the bed and ran a wire up for a gooseneck plug and got that all tied into the truck wiring after finding the GREAT resource of the ram body builder's guide. Gives full info on all the good stuff cab & chassis trucks come with.
Before I did the second half of the work at lunch yesterday and installed the rear socket I double checked the pinout and all was good except for the thing that forced my hand on redoing the wiring in the first place: the +12v from the battery hadn't been wired in at all before, but the RD/VT wire that's supposed to carry is is dead. Key off or key on. So I need to track that down now, or run a new wire from the front of the truck. Shitty.
I haven't tested with the P3 standalone on the trailer with the hydro actuator but I have this sinking feeling that it's not going to do any better after getting this all fixed as far as thinknig it doesn't have a trailer connected even though it's set to hydro, and is supposed to all play nice together.
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You probaly checked the fuse for the trailer power, so thats all I got.
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TIPM is still a totalfuckingmystery to me.
I think all fuses are good, I looked at the labels yesterday and only saw dedicated for trailer lights not the 30a battery feed. Need to recheck wiring diagrams. There should be a trick I get to play with existing wires to give myself an auxillary backup light activation switch too but I didn't get to test that without the battery feed at the rear and I couldn't find the underdash plug I need. That gives me switched power in the cab for a few things that I've so far just been good about not leaving on, too.
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There has to be a maxi fuse for the trailer power. I would use a continuity tester on all the fuses to test it. Should take 41.3 seconds.
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Fuse 19.
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19 was blown. Replaced. Good.
Put in pigtail for rear plug but did not install. Taped off unwired ends. Rest of harness is sealed again and halfway dressed.
Need to hole saw for rear plug next to lic plate and wire it. Need to make sweet panel and hinge for mid-deck plug. Need to fix backup light relay on trailer and think about replacing the forward mounted backup lights. Need to find under dash plug and wire backup light override switch and make use of ign-switched power for ARB trigger and radar detector power supply. Tested the backup light override and it works as expected. I miss that switch from the old truck for night work, loading, and tailgating assholes with brights on.
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Tinted!
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Magazine, Mac, Dessi keep my windows like the Prezzie!
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keep it a non purple tie certified tint!
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there is not a level of certified tint that is acceptable.
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Got a bad load of fuel in this leaving Matt's yesterday. Spent the whole trip home draining the fuel filter every 45m. Great fun.
Drained it for the 5th? time at Smike's shop, the water in fuel light came on leaving my house for Kim's as I was getting on 390! Drained it at her house, thankfully it started fine at 15Ëš this morning. No light yet. I put a half bottle of Howes in it, hoping against hope that it did some magic overnight. I was planning to run this tank real low, then refuel with the other half bottle of Howe's and change the under-4,000 mile filter ( :( ). If I keep getting WIF lights every 30 miles I may throw a filter on it sooner than later in case it's something else weird.
I called the station last night after I got to chez nord and the Mike I spoke to there said he wasn't aware of any other reported issues yesterday. Weird.
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we sell a magic bottle k100 I believe...
people swear by it
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Some K100-D could go along real nicely with a Ford starter!
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Is it actually draining water or is the sensor messed up?
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I haven't had a container. I'm pretty certain that what's coming out is frothy. Draining it also turns off the light when nothing else does. Key cycle, it stays on. Drain, it turns off.
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What a pain in the scrotum at least the filter is doing it's job.
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fo sho on both counts!
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Pretty sure the water is real. WIF light came on while warming up at home. I was excited and grabbed a container, ready to see if it was really true… I open the petcock - nothing comes out. It's frozen.
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No good
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whoooly smokes
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Wasn't fully thawed by the time I got to my parents. Had to key up with it open to blow the shit out.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/sy9ade6a.jpg)
This is what the fuel looked like. I don't think howes makes it cloudy like that but dad thought it may. It looks to me like gelled fuel looks. Pressure is fine though. Going to let it settle inside in warm temps and see what comes of it.
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looks like water to me.
the 4300 could have used an ARB getting up JC cabin road, but she was doing work at 25800lbs with Buggy and zj. scaled after fueling on my way south.
Pleased it started and did not crash into ditches
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Looks like Paul newman's lemonade...
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Fuel line is frozen. Started fine this morning but I only got to drive about 3/4 of a mile. Kim and the mule saved me! eagle didn't have enough juice to start.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/myzahumu.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/ade2eqa2.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/yte7uny3.jpg)
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
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wasnt your truck downtown last night around 6? so it at BCA parking..
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The Mule is doing work! Aw yeah!
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Yup, now the mule is there instead!
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Drove this unit home. Rode my bike to the park to pick up the mule and returned, still idling happily, w fuel pressure. Fuel in the mason jar has liquid water instead of solid. Seems less of an issue!
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Done slumming it on the seats. Heated Wet Okole covers ordered. I've had a replacement driver cushion since may of last year... Time to put it in. Might be as long as 3-4 weeks to delivery I guess. Hopefully they're not backed up with xmas gift cert orders.
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Fueled and reset things at the rez east of grand island. Overhead was almost to 29mpg at one point before climbing out of Hamilton, I drove careful and got it back from a 27.5 low to 28.1 arriving here in London about 130 miles later.
Wonder how much of a lie that is.
Actual number upon fillup this morning: 19.9
overhead was saying 26.9 at the time.
I don't think I get to say this anymore
Worst it's been at fillup is 15% off.
Fuel gauge was accurate the entire time, zero issues.
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ya 19-21 empty is about all you will get out of a 5.9 no matter what morons in the web say
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mine gets 35mpg towing 76k!
I should check my mileage by hand one of these days.
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I hand calc every tank. habit from my parents. And log it all. Because I'm a data nerd.
I even do it on the Eagle, which has no trip meter (that's REALLY annoying, especially with the needle swing that fuel gauge has and how nice it would be to know miles on the tank at a glance)
I've seen 17 actual several times, usually with the overhead saying 17 (except once when it said 13.8). So I was hoping this could be higher. I'm curious what threw it off, and if I was significantly better westbound when I was only doing 65 than on the return doing 70+
Fun games to play. I can't complain about 20mpg in this thing. It may yet steal the title for favorite vehicle from the Jetta. And yes I liked the Jetta better than the Dumpbus overall.
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better than the mule?
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way better.
mileage.
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Arb misbehaving. Frozen into my street parking spot at Kim's.
Fed it some extra air pressure since I'm trying to lock an ice cold diff. Think I may have screwed up the solenoid. It's leaking where I don't think an air port is (bottom as-installed, can't see). I've had light oil on the vent for some time. Need to verify the axle air vent is clear and that I don't have a line full of oil. Some seem to have that issue as I do (very minor amt) for year without problems. Others have big leaks from bad o-rings. Others have just enough oil contaminating things to gum up the works.
I guess I'll see if this locks up when warm when I check the axle breather. I'm not sure the truck is moving until it's warm. Frozen around all 4 tires :(
Same shit could happen on any edge of my crapgasmic driveway, so I'll stow any of that bitching.
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Fucking embarrassing that this is "stuck"
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/17/uhe2esad.jpg)
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beyond.. i would set fire to it and hide my head in shame.
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considered - strongly. and dismissed.
Warm tires, cold day. All are in 2-5" divots. Only 4x4 or the locker working AND no ice under the pavement side would get me out. I'm np205 shopping now.
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Sweeeet ride
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Wait.. It's still stuck?
Oh mike, I'll come rescue you with my race car jeep on bald snows just to add to the shame
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It needs to feel shame. It's going to sit there and think about what it's done!
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Do like we do with the tow trucks lift up the rear rotate the tires so the ice is at the top drive out.bottle jack and 5 minutes done
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
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screw that.. do like a true new yorker and rock that baby free..
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Spins in the holes. Chains through the hand holes would have it out in a minute if the locker was working.
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rausch parking lot was a mess. im amazed i got out.
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Buy a 4wd?
Just sayin it is Rochester after all
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You know, I got the locker to avoid this. And it would work, if it worked...
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Successfully swapped an eagle for a ram tonight.
Still had to rock it and work for it pretty good.
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Looked at the solenoid, have a chopped O ring. Hopeful for a simple fix.
Want to put a pressure gauge on the comp. May add a tank and make the comp come on with ignition when I rewire accessories, then just switch the solenoid. tcase will be air shifted; air horns would be nice sometimes too :)
There are several solenoid replacement options if needed. I do get oil contamination in the line, reading that I did suggests that really cleaning out the line can help things work as they should, but I'd figure that the gear oil on the wrong sides of the seals in the locker doesn't help things down in the diff either. Full disassembly is the only way to clean that out. I think lots of miles unlocked lets the oil weep past that seal when it's not under pressure. I didn't check the axle vent tube for restriction when I installed, that's another common means of contamination since if the diff builds any pressure it can really help oil get past that seal. I know it doesn't leak since I've let the thing sit for an hour or two locked and the compressor never kicked on - with no tank.
Still need to finish trailer wiring stuff, and I'd still like to get the toolbox deleted from the front of the deck and get a couple boxes underneath. Have some thoughts and plans for ramps as bedsides too, for tractor/atv/minitruck loading. Going to make them 10-12' long with a nested fold, probably build from 2"x.120 angle. Need to check some per-foot weights and make sure I'm not thinking of 150# ramps. I would like them to be under 50# ea so that may mean steel frame and aluminum tread?
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For reference, my aluminum ramps are ~50# and 10' long.
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Thanks. That doesn't sound like a likely target weight at all, then.
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Worried about the injectors on this guy. It has none of the symptoms that I've seen associated with failing CR injectors: gaining oil, white smoke, rough idle & knocking, decreased economy. But above 20k rail pressure (which is generally accelerating 45mph+ under decent load) it feels like one hole isn't doing what it should. Almost sounds like an exhaust leak - it's very subtle.
Doesn't look like too big a job to pull the injectors to have them tested.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/07-5-09-3rd-gen-6-7l-performance-parts-discussion/400343-how-removing-head.html
I'm at the end of my oil change interval, thinking of sending it to Blackstone to see if I've got more fuel in there than I should before digging in since it's so subtle. Would be nice to catch an issue before catastrophe for once though.
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Time for the stadadyne fix. I would try that before you go do anything else
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I've got about 30 gallons in the tank. Think a full bottle in there would be potent enough? I suppose I could change the fuel filter and pre-fill it with the good stuff.
Remember I had that really watery tank of fuel too, if the f/w filter didn't do 110% of its job that certainly could have done some damage :(
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Time for the stadadyne fix. I would try that before you go do anything else
FYI I bought some Power Service Diesel Kleen in the grey bottle at Walmart this weekend for the Benz. It smells just like Stanadyne and seemed to work just as well at knocking down smoke and power loss from wmo. Cheaper and easier to find.
Maybe getting the real stuff would be best for something like this though.
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Time for the stadadyne fix. I would try that before you go do anything else
FYI I bought some Power Service Diesel Kleen in the grey bottle at Walmart this weekend for the Benz. It smells just like Stanadyne and seemed to work just as well at knocking down smoke and power loss from wmo. Cheaper and easier to find.
Maybe getting the real stuff would be best for something like this though.
I actually bought that stuff a month ago or so for the car it definitely smells the same and helps a little but I not as much as stadadyne.
I think if you put the whole 250 gallon treatment bottle that will definitely do something. They have it at D&W
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Doing some reading it appears there are some in-truck diagnostics that can be done from a scan tool, something called a cylinder contribution test for example.
Searching on that I see a LOT of 7.3 'stroke stuff.
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I have some grey bottle in the cabinet. Which stanadyne do you clean up with? Planning oil change, fuel filter, some hefty fuel treat and a test drive before I pull injectors. Had one chance to call D&W today and I didn't get through so idk what their turnaround time is for testing CR injectors. L
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Performance Formula
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remember we carry injectors...
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Not forgetting - even with discounts I'm still hoping not to throw $350 retail parts at it but it sure beats melting a motor. If something keeps me north this weekend, that'll be it
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just for shits.. gimme the lookup info.. want to see if we have them
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07.5 6.7 6sp cab and chassis 3500
the C&C may make a difference, I think the motor is rated lower than the pickups. Uncertain if they use the same Bosch p/n and it's all in the computer (I bet that's the case). 07 should show 5.9 or 6.7
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why do they do that?
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you were right CC different...
available.. special order, but available
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Eta if needed? Not Friday morning id assume.
Eric - common for the pickups to be tuned closer to the edge and the medium duties that are nearly the same the be derated for durability since they're expected to have heavier use. C&C 3500 gets the same ratings that the 4500/5500 get. I think you can get the HD auto tranny in it too but not the pickup. I could be wrong on that one.
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D&W's lead tech expects an injector issue, unsurprising.
suggests not wasting time on computers and looking at the actual sticks. reassuring.
apparently they're pretty busy and expect 2-3 days to get through them. Hopefully that's a long estimate and not short. They're open 0730-1700 so I may try to pull 'em over a 2hr "lunch" to get them over today.
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if you want me to get them here friday I can see if I can
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Stripped and sticks are in a bag. #5's holddown wasn't as tight as the rest. Sealing washer appeared intact though. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/09/ehupajat.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/09/e4uzy5u3.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/09/he7y6e3u.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/09/esymy8em.jpg)
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dumpbus2 is comming!
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I sure hope not! I really enjoyed not wrenching on this thing for the last year. I guess it is just a little bit nice to get to know it better, but I'd rather do that out of preference!
Just dropped the injectors off at D and W. Sounds like I should not count on having things back together for the weekend, they said expect more like a Monday – Tuesday sort of thing. What are your and Matt's hauling plans? I know you're planning on leaving Friday at 11... If it can't happen it can't happen. It's felt like quite the rushed project already.
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not sure what Matt is doing. Brother is causing unknowns.
ill probably end up taking my black trailer down.
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I have no leakers, but I have high return rates on several injectors.
#5 (looser holddown) has a bad alignment roll pin.
#1 & #6 have out of spec high return. #5 & #2 are on the very edge of return limit.
#3 & #4 are good.
uugh!
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The goose has landed!
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Angry pushrod
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The old lady who swallowed a fly
Not only do I need to see if I broke the tappet and retrieve the ball off the end of the pushrod that broke off while I was prying it out, but I also need to retrieve the first magnet that I sent in after said ball.
Very very last rocker. Apparently I missed the tappet when I reinstalled the exhaust rocker on number six. Exhaust rockers need to come off to do the injector holddowns.
Unimpressed with QC on injectors. Had some damaged threads - one shortened itself - and some soft plastic parts appeared to be superglued (and two of those no longer are)
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Anyone have a HF 20%er or coupon for their bore scope?
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Just tosses out my flyer other day
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I always toss their fliers. Bad habit. Looks like they're on sale, 199 from 249 for the good ones.
http://m.harborfreight.com/high-resolution-digital-inspection-camera-with-recorder-60695.html
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I have a scope if you need... wLED light on the end.
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man this is a bummer!
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Length difference I saw seems to be a 12v/ 24v difference. Makes sense with the taller head.
Need to see where I put the second motor spare parts I guess. google search for the p/n I got from Cummins Quick Serve just now turns up a bunch of 5.9 24v results.
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Anyone have a HF 20%er or coupon for their bore scope?
I just got one via e-mail.. if you still need it or did not get one yourself.
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If it's forward able if appreciate it. Unless you're planning to use an it's single use or sonething
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It is printable and sharable, but to big to attach, here is a link
https://www.dropbox.com/s/44joiridusgzv92/HFCoupon.pdf
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I just google one before I get in line for the checkout and show them on my phone
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whats the status of this guy?
http://buffalo.craigslist.org/hvo/4402250092.html
replace?
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Fuck that price! seriously? Hahaha
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camera was out for delivery this morning. have sidetracked on push rods. I'm pretty sure after looking around yesterday that my 24v pushrods, rockers, etc went with the bad block, head, and valve cover. Just talked to Regional and for $12 and change they have one on the way from Cummins Northeast in Buffalo, should be in their hands in about 24hr.
So hopefully there's little to no rain tonight and I can go fishing!
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This thing is super cool. I seem to have cavities in my wisdom teeth :(
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gross
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don't try and fix those yourself...
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I know, right? I've never had a cavity in my life!
I can hook it up to a computer and post pictures of it too. Or micro sd card.
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Camera is awesome at what it's meant for too. Magnet is super weak though. I had to knock the ball free from a skinny spot. It stayed in the vicinity that time. I got it on the magnet but lost it about an inch from out. Heard a couple distinct 'plinks' so I'm quite certain it made it past the cam and is safely in the oil pan. Hoping for a running truck tomorrow!
Left the cam in the garage. I'll post the pics and vids I took sometime later.
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id do an oil change for sure if there is even a chance that i could get a hardened ball out of my motor lol
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Zero chance. There's a lip around the drain plug. Maybe fishing with a good magnet on a flexible stick? Of course it has fresh oil with 2min runtime and a bent pushrod in it right now too. Meh?
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Nice to see a $50 oil change holding you up on maybe doing serious damage haha
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buy a new drain pan, put the oil back in
ill admit i have started doing this with buggy diff fluid lol
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explain to me how it will drain out, mister man!
also, explain how it'll cause damage from within the oil pan, eh? what am I missing here?
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Run it, you can find a bus motor for it easy anyway. :)
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http://youtu.be/USW-MsWrI1Y
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Cortese called me yesterday, recall parts are in. need to look at the rest of the steering this weekend and investigate exactly what this replaces.
I think I need a steering box. Truck has developed some play, and it's getting worse. Box is leaking. It's always had a drip, but when I parked it yesterday it was several drips. bah!
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Interesting, right from the description on Rock for one of the boxes:
Front; 4WD; Power steering; WARNING: If the driver of this vehicle is experiencing "wandering" or "chatter", the likely root cause is frame flex, which causes excessive stress on the gearbox. Frame flex is common in this application and a brace will help combat this issue.
hundo plus core for the cheapest reman retail cost, that's nowhere near as bad as I was expecting.
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No play at all in the leaky box. Grr.
Upper track bar bushing is shot. That's the only play in there.
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My 'new' NAPA reman steering box is leaking now and since the day 1 it had that dead spot in the center. I'm planning to buy redhead's steering box sometime soon. I hope it'll not start one day suddenly pouring fluids out.
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RTLO - 16713A
http://elmira.craigslist.org/hvo/4617220349.html
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Put that in the dumper!
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56# heavier, 1pt more gear oil, and 0.3" longer than the 9513.
Ratios look awesome. Can't find widths. Not sure I want to try to move my exhaust outside the frame again.
Should save the weight and go 9/10 speed. I don't need splits at all with the power band of the CR engine. It's as happy at 1400 as it is at 2600 and it REALLY pulls from 2500 well past 3k
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Looks like this ate a water pump. Could use a fresh belt too.
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Confirmed last night. Stopped at Regional, closest cummins has is in Albany. Tuesday or Wednesday unless I want to pay ups too.
Arie, you'll have an email shortly...
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waiting
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All set. Just need a gallon of water to finish tipoff and some water and coolant for stock.
Belt routing is insane on this thing. And fan and shroud are super tight to the motor.
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$99.99 + tax to plug in and give me the abs codes. Fucking thievery.
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haha
crazy
what do i need to talk to VW to see what pissed off mine climbing on the trailer? i still have techII access
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Vag-com can talk to all the modules incl abs. I should be able to pull that code.
Wish the same thing existed for Mopars.
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I think Ohio might be cursed
Dead fuel gauge, water in fuel, maybe injector issues again...
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o no!
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Quite a bit better after changing fuel filter but not 100%. Yet?
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"several" miles after a full bottle of grey power service and I just dumped a ton of clear water or of the filter instead of the emulsified crap is had been giving up so far. Hopefully the beginning of the end of white smoke and missing. Bah!
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That really sucks.
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OH not known for its fuel....
or Mike not known for his luck with trucks... hmmm
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There is no way that there could possibly have been that much water and one tank of fuel… Considering how much rain I was driving in, I wonder if I might have some sort of a leak at the top of the fuel tank?
Definitely have damaged in injector, running on five leaving Batavia. This seems really familiar – and really pisses me off!
Tapatalking in traffic
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No good
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Fawk
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what was that part number again?
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I think we did those from lookup. I dont think ihave a part number.
Considering bringing it to whatzits diesel by the post office to see if they can diag the dead hole for me so I don't have to pull all. OTOH last time it gave me two failures and two questionable, should probably test all :(
Their in house remans were about the same price with no wait, they're Bosch certified too. Probably just get them there.
Looks like a bit over 200 for a prebuilt filter setup. (water plus 2 micron) Need to see what my framerail fuel lines look like to see what I have to tap into if I try to piece something together cheaper. And find out what filet base I need.
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I REALLY wish I had decent space to work on this damn thing.
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just fog giggles what's the lookup.. we prob stock them now
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07 3500 6.7 cap & chassis
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I REALLY wish I had decent space to work on this damn thing.
Tapatalking in traffic
my offer still stands if you want to come to Honeoye.
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There's no way to hold fuel stations liable for this type of thing?
Have you ruled out water ingress on the truck is the first question I guess.
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I was running in lots of rain the whole trip. I can't remember for sure what wx was like before my last set of issues but I remember draining water in misting rainy crap the whole way back last time when smike and I were driving. Pressure testing my tank is one of the first things I'm going to do to see if I have some sort of leak.
I just don't see how I could possibly get what seems to have been at least a pint of water if not more from a single 43 gallon fillup.
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our trip was cold, but i dont remember rain
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There's no way to hold fuel stations liable for this type of thing?
A gas station here in my town had contaminated fuel. They covered all engine replacements/repairs, no hassle.
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id call bs on that
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Happend up here too, down by Jeff's. Whatever chain has the "on the go" store, mostly blue livery? they put diesel in their gas tanks IIRC. Covered things.
I just paid half the cost of one injector on some fancy fuel filtration. Hopeful to never have issues like this again...
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id call bs on that
http://www.wnem.com/story/26354008/enmark-in-rincon-warns-customers-of-bad-gas
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This looks all too familiar!
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/d6cf55a5a95682e1fb33858844212086.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/5ca3f7e9d7f1503dd950c74ee963437f.jpg)
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seriously?
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6 more injectors!
All failed.
fawwwwwk me.
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time to go with a good matched set and a warranty!
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ouch!
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It's all about the fuel filtration.
I'd suggest preventing this to both you and Ryan. The stock filters just plain aren't good enough. I had drivability issues before I had a water in fuel light. I won't hog it home next time that happens either. Not sure WTF the plan is for that without a drain on the fuel tank...
Less than the cost of one injector, and about an hour to install:
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VP-MAX-Dual-Remote-Filter-Kit-p/drff.htm
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look at these guys.
http://www.fitchfuelcatalyst.com
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Sounds like snake oil
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Smooth install. Runs like a top.
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Several hours spent and a dead headlight has resulted in a Lifetime upgrade. Digging it so far! MANY thanks for the help Ryan. Glad I did it there with parts available :)
Both filters taking out some water. Planning to run tanks very low with lots of Howes and draining filters every 150-200mi. Fuel gauge has been fine.
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Did you figure out where the water is coming in from yet?
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No. Dry forecast...
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Checked filters before I went out yesterday since it was finally warm while thinking about it. Very little water in big boy filter, decent amount in stock. wtf?
Aaaand I noticed a miss on my way home. I think it may be time to sell this thing down the river if it really has eaten more injectors. Seriously, wtf?
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send it!
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Unreal..
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What brand the fuel filters you're running? My truck's factory fuel filter is 2 nominal micron if that matter and it certainly have stopped up if I wasnt be careful filtering my wmo.
Find out where water is coming in! I don't have problem with diesel I buy from fastrac and Hess near RIT. Although I run a 12v.
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A 12 valve you can dump 5 gallons of water in the tank and the thing will keep running!
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Mike, how much you mean by "decent amount" in your factory fuel filter?
I'll bet it'll run ok on a cup of water in the tank, not 5 gallons haha.
P-pump it!
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I don't want another project truck. I have enough projects.
Maybe 1/4t in the donaldson(?), and about maybe a bit more than 1t in the factory.
I read of vents on top of the tank on other 3rd gens, need to look.
Wtf though, are the filters there for looks?
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Perhaps my panic was premature. It popped a code this afternoon, P0202. Fuel injector 2 circuit/open
hopefully a harness issue; otherwise at least maybe it's only one problem stick and an electrical problem at that.
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Swapped #2 injector. All seems good so far. ~90m job. probably same for 1-4, bit longer for 5 and longer yet for 6.
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test run?
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Yea...
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problem continues. Intermittent. New harness next. Felpro VS50668R or Dorman 615-204 please
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Gave the plug a serious wiggle before I left the warehouse, no hiccoughs since. That's about 90 miles I think? See how it does tmw.
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Fine all the way Norfolk to Carter St, from Carter to Kim's, and from Kim's to home.
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Wtf is the next step in unit bearing removal when the standard doesn't work?
Feeling mostly better, and was going to swap the bad ABS sensor. Found the wire cut right at the knuckle. So much for finishing that right now I guess.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/20/2b0efce92005970d6ab4ee545ee208d2.jpg)
Nothing moved closer in but I'm about to try again. Thoughts appreciated.
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Auto Zone slide hammer?
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Hah
And on what?
Destroy rotor?
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Is it that seized? BFH and a few good whacks
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Engine running to have power steering don't work?
You're replacing the wheel bearing? Idk if they're the old school spindle type or unit bearing??
If you're repacing the unit bearing, use sledge hammer on back of unit bearing's flange. Keep the nut on so it will not separates when pounding on it. This always worked for me. Although the ones I did was not 3/4-up ton trucks but they was rusted in solid. My 12v's unit bearing actually just 'fall out' when I took them off.
I think Mark is referring to a slide hammer that attaches to the wheel lugs, you use lug nuts to secure the slide hammer on.
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...(http://www.schattenbaum.org/Portals/1/Images/911_Bearing/08a.jpg)
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deff need an educated and attentive 2nd hand to do the power steering trick
don't be afraid to stick scrap 3/8" plate in between stuff and socket extension to not just blow through them
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I hadn't seen the lug nut adaptor. Maybe promising?
Correct. Bent the 1/4" bracket instead of moving the unit bearing. bearing is good so I'd much rather not destroy it. Just need to get under it to replace the ABS sensor.
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Hmm. I almost think the rotor may slip on come to think. Maybe I don't need to remove the bearing.
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Brett knows what I'm talking about. Thanks Brett!
Pic worth 1000 words!
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(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/22/6a4dcae90ec6b0f2be9ab9fff8283464.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/22/0c1085d83889c5dab5d7189115520561.jpg)
I just set cruise control for the first time ever! It's only been something like 25 months and 35,000 miles…
If only I had also not just noticed that Dodge completely fucked my alignment when they did the steering recall, I'd be a happy camper!
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Need valve cover gasket/ under valve cover harness. Miss is back. #2 again.
Ready to burn it.
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i found a guy who does grey market take outs of cummins motors...
a little sketch and i don't know how computers would recognize a forging vin
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Reseated connector and all good. Issue with harness on one side or the other, hoping valve cover side but expecting engine harness side.
Grey market from where? Could be interesting for other projects...
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britian
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Fucking deer. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/18/c25cbc338871454c176bb74b0b6db706.jpg) (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/18/f8dc25e5f65a621c1ee0db24e00e4cf8.jpg) (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/18/1344d3633982c4dd41e2046d994e2948.jpg)
A yearling ran into the side of me while I was paying attention to avoiding traffic as the body of deer #1 spun off into the left lane from the big truck I was following about 1/8mi ahead of me. Not sure if it was deer #2 or #3 that got me. May have been one other?
It did go deep enough to get the rocker too. Paint on the outside of the rocker didn’t crack. Haven’t looked inside.
Didn’t call it in, hopefully the photos are enough evidence...
Humbug. Worst animal strike I’ve had by far. Previous record was a cracked slat in the jetta grille. I’d much rather take one in the side than deal with bumpers into tires or cooler stack damage. Nothing else I could see aside from blood and shit. Brakes and fuel lines good, trailer skin looked unscathed.
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Wow
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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At least there’s no antler hole!
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THANK YOU for the help tonight, gents. Sorry it went so long and was so painful.
Right side bad ball joints done. Feels much tighter on the road. Had to be loose for tens of thousands of miles. Steering recall didn’t get me a fresh free alignment, it just cost me tires :(
I’ll check the lefts, probably not do them for quite some time unless clicky is found.
Insurance adjustor will be here in 5 hours to do a deer damage estimate.
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My guess of 2500 was almost right on. 2312. Repair the doors, not replace. That surprised me a bit.
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hell mine is only at 2100
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Alignment, headlight, fender, hood and blending, then?
Mine is nothing but 3 panels of pull dents, block, and paint, along with needed r&r and blending.
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no hood according to appraiser, Heading over to Brighton Collision in a bit to have the Guy Arie knows look at it.
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power steering was whining. Was low.
Things are wet, no clear leaky spot, could be pump lines or box. Only thing difinitively dry is all around the hydroboost.
Also noticed oil with dye on the bottom of the AC compressor while I was under there. Boooo.
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Fresh steers, yay!
Still need an inspection, oops. My wheel is also pointed closer to 1 o'clock than to noon. Nothing personal, but this is why I hate having others work on my junk. Bah.
Pretty sure I have fresh trans noise. Noticed it my last trip, louder howl than usual under no-load than under coast, neutral, or acceleration.
Appear to have a damn miss again. I have parts to make a kill box now to identify the bad hole now at least.
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I have a line on a 2wd and a 4wd nv5600 if you are interested.
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$$? Tcase and or drive lines available w 4x4?
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Not sure if I have the right slip yoke in my collection for a 271(?)
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I will inquire
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Will be having a "nice" chat with my tech Mike. Sorry about the steering wheel. Grrrr
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Slacked off Sunday instead of fixing this.
Need to twist the drag link adjuster and then going to swap the valve cover seal+harness and see if the misfire cleans up.
Popped a code Saturday, #2 again. Will start swapping parts and also build an injector kill box from my spare parts to further diag if the harness doesn't take care of it.
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Very unimpressed with the quality of the aftermarket valve cover seal/ harness. It uses a bunch of zip ties instead of nicely molded wire guides, had one nicked wire right out of the box, and most importantly, the front 3 holes died entirely after I tightened everything down. A quick start before I buttoned it up sounded like #2 was still having issues but its tough to tell with no load. I was going to go for a test drive and then went from 5 cyl to 3.
So fed up working in the dark in my driveway. Deal with the POS tomorrow. Grump grump.
Putting the old Cummins part back in tomorrow I guess. Hopefully a rocker didn’t grab an out of place wire and trash/ contaminate things.
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Double unimpressed with the zip ties now. Fixed that. #2 still unhappy. Decided to pull for testing and probable replacement instead of playing games swapping around to learn nothing
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/13/5cb618e763b65ec6894ab15e915d8173.jpg)
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im internested in this for field research...
I checked and all use the same zip tie nonsense.. whats OE?
is OE mopar or cummins parts?
mopar number?
so many reasons I'm asking and I really can't get into why... at least not yet..
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Cummins. Number was super easy to Google up the first time...
Take a close look at the comparison pic, there are nice molded channels for the wires to follow on the oe piece.
Let me know if you want some better pictures. I’m not trashing it since I’ll be waiting for that nicked wire to fail anyway. I may put it back in...
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Cummins pn 5264950
superceded pn 3975641
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was this a felpro gasket?
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Dorman.
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Low flow on that #2, as I expected.
Another $400 down the toilet! Yay!
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Mike
Can you send me an email summarizing the issues you have had...
Want to send to GB vendor also pictures of gasket ... Basically everything that has failed or is troublesome.
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I'll see what I can put together.
what I can't put together is the truck, was going to do it on lunch today but the injector they had in stock wasn't there. have to go over tomorrow morning too. I love driving around before I ride my bike to work so much I just can't fucking describe it.
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I've been doing some reading on G56 trucks. Do you still have the dual mass flywheel in yours?
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DMF is long long long gone. Southbend dual disk in it. 3475? 3750?
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I figured. I am still wrapping my head around why they ever used one, but sounds like mostly NVH? No longevity concerns associated with the added noise and able to take more power?
Sounds like most aftermarket clutches use SMF. Probably worth doing when clutch needs replacing and allows a mild power bump or just ditching torque management.
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DMF is for mainly for NVH, also dampens some driveline shock but I would expect if it dampened enough to make an appreciable difference in carrier bearing or ujoint life that it would very much be a consumable part.
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Injector wasn't in yet first thing this morning.
They did right by me for wasting two trips: gave me a jobber price on the injector and saved me about $60, and sent it to me at work via courrier. I got it like 2 hours ago.
now that's how to make up for a fuckup and keep a satisfied customer. The money they'll continue to make off of me and those I send there more than makes up for that little cost to earn that goodwill out of something that would give a bad impression. Why is it that I'm so impressed by that level of service these days?
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bc cheap is easy...
if you're going to pay more.. they better make it worth your wild
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Pulled the fuel tank yesterday and found it quite clean. rinsed some fines and filings out of the fuel pump bowl and wiped some fines out of the tank. I think I probably added as much taking off the pump as I cleaned out. Very little water in there. Probably sucked the worst of it out running the tank down to empty. I don't think I sucked out much more than a gallon. 2.5 canisters of my air-powered HF brake vacuum.
The vent did have a hose on it, but it was short, level, uncapped, and VERY dirty. I'm quite certain I found my water contamination source.
I ran a much longer hose all the way up into the headache rack. I should have dry fuel as long as I'm not fording anything up past my windows now. Running better filters now after replacement as well - and the water filter has a sight bowl so I won't need to blindly sample. I can lean down and just look.
Here's to hoping for the end of issues. Hopefully none of the injectors currently in there are fatally wounded. I'm certainly surprised at the most recent one.
Next up: carrier bearing. Rubber is cracked. Should probably PM ujoints at the same time.
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Finally filling this. 5 gallons in a dry tank did not move the fuel needle.
Including that 5, put in 52.5 in a 52.2 gallon tank.
I think I’ve put in 51 poon the road before. Maybe I shouldn’t push it so far :)
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Finally. Wanted the box out of my way. Probably won't get wired for a while but almost done mounting. Just want to drill and tap the end caps for larger bolts.
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All done.
I want a 20" single row on everything I drive. Better than high beams.
I was hoping the spot beam would be good for a fog light but I think I'll have to tip it WAY down for that, and it might still be too messy of a pattern. I'll play with that later.
Decent amount of wind noise from the big bar. I'll decide this weekend if it stays or goes. I think it's "noticeable but not objectionable."
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Seems like there are a few methods to reduce the whistle. might give some of those a shot. I should run it for an hour and see how hot it gets before I fool with covering heat exchanger fins though.
I see some have luck with door edge trim on the fins, that'd leave plenty of cooling surface but I don't understand how that would change the wind profile much...
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WInd noise is different than whisteling. The whisteling is vibrating fins, wind noise is just from the bar being in the wind.
I took mine off because its too much wind noise..... It annoyed me on long trips.
The 20" are all that is needed, perfect light output and in a better spot for not blinding you with hood glare.
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Look into the amber/clear ones if you are going to go for a 20" bar.
I have one mounted on the front bumper of the dually and love it. Like you said, it is enough.
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Makes sense. I have noise, not whistle.
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link to the 20" one please.
I wanted to put a light bar behind my truck grille... but I think I can fit in something larger than 20"
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this might be the one I got
https://www.lifetimeledlights.com/led_lights/20_led_light_bar_20_inch_led_light_bar
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For the amber one
https://www.lifetimeledlights.com/led_lights/215_120w_amber_white_led_light_bar
But it is 21.5" though
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Also dual row, not single. I needed a single to fit in the slot in my bumper
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Any difference between single row and double rows?
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Body height is all I cared about. Ryan might comment on technical differences...
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Single row uses 5w Cree chips and better optics. The dual row is 3w chips. I would go single row, the light is much better controlled.
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your even typing like the thilands now ryan haha
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Haha. I have been driving for days. My typing skills are suffering.
Should say "much more betterer"
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We heard a few small parts exit the bellhousing on the way to PA. weird noises on engine cranking/startup that sound like parts rattling around haven't gotten any better on their own.
I just talked to South Bend, Aaron there sounds pretty concerned about the small pieces I heard hit the bellhousing, so I guess I should do something about that sooner than later. $600 plus shipping out of pocket for an exchange-for-new on the street dual disc. That seems pretty reasonable.
Only hesitation I have on that is that the transmission has been running significantly warmer for the last 3000 miles or so than it has in the past. Previously, I'd only trip my trans temp warning at 220Ëš on the VERY hottest of days, running heavy, in the hills, without stopping for 500 miles.
I'm now hitting that temp by the hill climbing out of Dansville with the single car enclosed trailer, and seeing peak temps of 260.
I just changed the fluid after about 50,000 miles. No significant chunks. No decrease in temp after changing.
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trade this pile in for a big truck already :D
no inspection cover on the bel housing to identify parts? id think you would want to do that asap before doing more damage to starter/ringgear/ plates ect
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I confessed to Aaron at southbound that I had not tried to look, he said there's really not much to see without actual disassembly.
Maybe my bore scope might be able to see something?
As much as I keep looking and dreaming, priorities dictate another 1-2 years of service for this unit.
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First and only writeup of G56 teardown that I found. Seems quite kind. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/567275-diving-into-g56-step-step.html
I'd like to find a service manual for endplay specs and shim specs, and it looks like the jig on the second page of the thread would be very valuable if not neccessary for setting shims.
I think I'm planning to open the trans and do a visual on all gears and bearings, and set proper shimming for input/output shaft play. I've got to have a bearing going out or something along those lines with the huge temperature increase I've seen in the last ~5k miles even without seeing bad things on the magnet. I think a freshened clutch and going through the trans may help piece of mind for a future buyer too. I know I'd like to see that with a 400,000 mile truck. It wouldn't be worth any money to me but it would help me overlook the milage that would otherwise turn me off.
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clutch kit in stock
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southbend dual disk will get whatever it needs, not going backwards to stock dual mass crap - but thank you anyway!
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I assumed as much. Just curious if we would have qoh
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isnt spencer the 5600 man?
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Nv5600 != g56
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jig tool looks necessary to me.
I'm willing to assist as needed. feel free to borrow my press that has the modified "table" for pressing large gears.
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Jig definitely looks necessary for a one-shot re-shim. Not sure I could fake that with some accurate measuring method and playing it with different shim options and measuring endplay sounds dumb. I need the actual needed measurements too. I sent a PM to that guy, he's on Grand Island. Still active on the site so I've got fingers crossed.
I expect to need to replace bearings ($120 on fleabay, should just push the button and resell later if they're all fine) and I expect to have excessive input shaft play which indicates need to re-shim.
I hope to find all gears spinning smoothly on the mainshaft and to have no chipped or pitted teeth. I have no synchro complaints at all, so as long as they all spin smoothly and the mainshaft looks good I'm not going to pull anything off.
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I expect to have excessive input shaft play which indicates need to re-shim.
What is considered excessive? I checked mine with motor out, no in/out but probably has 1/16" - 1/8" in either direction of float. Didn't find much info on it, aside from post 2 in this thread which was enough for me to stop worrying about it.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-powertrain/530681-g56-imput-shaft.html
If you are talking about side to side to play with the G56 actually REMOVED from the truck, some movement is actually ineveitable, because the front of the shaft is no longer supported by the oem bushing at the center of the dual mass flywheel. In ohter words, with the tranny removed from the truck, the entire input shaft is supported ONLY by the main bearing at the back of the bellhousing, which is actually near the center of the shaft (in terms of length) so when you move the front of the shaft from side to side, it WILL move, though when installed, it no longer can move because it is supported by the bushing at its very front tip. I hope that makes sense.
None of that is to say that should be ALOT of side play when checking for play with the tranny removed. When my G56 was out of the truck for a clutch upgrade, I could move the front of the shaft almost more then 1/8" in each direction, though NOT in and out. The dealer and 2 different tranny shops told me that this was normal, so I finished the job, re-installed the G56, and have absolutely NO shifting problems or noises.
Another way to check for bearing wear in the input shaft bearing is to look for discoloration of the bearing or tranny case from overheating, or actaul stress cracks in the case where the bearing sits, or even check to see if the actual bearing is loose or not properly seated in the tranny case. Those ARE signs of too much wear from overheating or overpowering the aluminum case of the G56. Also, IIRC, there should be NO end play (in and out)
Hope that helps some.
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service manual. boom.
http://docslide.us/documents/dodge-g56-service-manual.html
reading up on ADJUSTMENTS
MAINSHAFT/COUNTERSHAFT BEARING PRELOAD
CAUTION: This procedure must be performed any time a mainshaft, countershaft or input shaft bearing or shaft is replaced. Failure to follow these instructions will result in damaging the transmission.
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special tool problem solved. retail on that bitch is near $500!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162086462523
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I expect to have excessive input shaft play which indicates need to re-shim.
What is considered excessive?
Service manual indicates shimming to zero clearance on the bearings, so no in/out would be the key.
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Found this upon starting work on removal. Good sign to see mixed fresh/old hole in a trans case, right?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/48e5886fdcc83cbf55be27eff6aacf7d.jpg)
Then I got it out and found the bad stuff
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/459585398598361332d493a10599cb4c.jpg)
Source:
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Intermediate disc disintegrating at the pins
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Throwout bearing spins smooth but very dry. Fingers not happy with it.
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Starter teeth warn pretty badly. Flywheel is fighting coming off the crank so I haven't checked it's teeth carefully yet
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Gif, you up for a little aluminum welding project? :(
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44 fiestas
5 sprinters
2 NPRs
Cargo vans
Numerous Jeeps
Yup. I see it ;)
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44? Damn! I didn't even know I was that productive L*
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Wow, that's ugly... :(
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No need for welding the bell housing back together. Going to see if I can find a fresh front housing. How much I'm willing to spend on that depends on what south bend says about the clutch. Not sure if I qualify for the $600 reman price with that sort of damage.
Countershaft bearing boss is full of cracks. I thought at first they might be casting marks but some show through to the other side.
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5th gear has 2 chipped teeth. I guessed that was the case when I bought the truck. Amazing the countershaft looks fine. Countershaft 6th has one tiny burr, no damage on 6th. Bearings all look perfect, nothing cooked nothing rough nothing of note.
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160619/f5f8cc57e1592e5c9fba6672b432fe88.jpg)
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2 weeks out on a clutch. reman pricing. Getting a newer design and they don’t want this back. I’ll just send in photos of cutting the flywheel and be set.
_Awesome_ service especially considering I was up front about it being at least third hand to me. Shame about the backorder.
Hopefully I’ll get out of work before 9 today and have a chance to check out the bearing bosses in the case. Have all the rest of the parts here now.
If the bosses and case are not cracked I’ll be looking to get that bellhousing welded up and be good to go.
I’ve been looking into HD units and there’s an engine adaptor bolt pattern change on the dodge/ram common rail from the standard b and c series since the 80’s. All common rails need an o ring seal at the cam shaft but dodge moved one or two bolts in that vicinity as well. Haven’t gotten good photos or diagrams on this but found two sources saying so. fancy shit there brings that back to even money or worse plus more work to go that route.
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Aaron who I was talking to there also strongly suggested to stay dual disk. Stock 6.7s dyno 300-320 to the wheels (truck tune not cab and chassis obviously). With a full delete and a base tow tune they’re usually 450ish.
Insane. And plenty to rip through a single disc when towing heavy.
New clutch will be hybrid, too - not full ceramic, so it should be less grabby. Good with the 3.42s.
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Just out of curiosity, how many miles are on the truck now?
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406xxx
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http://rochester.craigslist.org/hvo/5649397265.html
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Anything with a 5 digit model number is too big.
Rt(o)95xx or rt(o)66xx are smaller.
Finally did a little polishing. No cracks evident past the surface.
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flywheels are in stock from backorder. will talk to my guy after lunch. at least there's some good news (and a shitton more work ahead)
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Mark Moore welded this up for me last night, it came out really well.
Hopeful for complete assembly Saturday.
second radiator will be here today as well, hopefully I can work on the car and get the big bits of that wrapped up Sunday.
Fangers crossed.
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Far too much learning accomplished
Clutch on yesterday. Trans assembled today. Hopefully it goes in as well as it came out instead of as poorly as it went together.
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not a bolt on bell adapter plate? did you have to actually go inside the trans?
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trans got 5 new bearings 2 new seals and a new input shaft (2 chipped teeth).
integrated bellhousing.
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o god!
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Tell me about it.
Old bearings looked decent, but hundreds of thousands of wear.
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this is same G56 as mine right?
what fluid you putting back in it?
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correct. It's getting synthetic 50w MTF put back in that was there for the last 500 or so miles.
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Needs oil, shifter, trim pieces, jackstand removal, and a new rearmost ujoint. Needles appear to be gone on 1 trunion.
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needs a test drive to say Newburgh and back ;)
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doing work!
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needs a test drive to say Newburgh and back ;)
Newburgh NY? I could travel along 84 on my way home next Thursday if it helps anything. Don't wanna bite into Mike's sidework though!
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SO QUIET!
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success?
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filled it up, put the shifter and trim pieces on, drove to back to campus after lunch after making sure it went into and out of all 7 holes without issue.
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Zero issues. So much quieter.
Clutch is much nicer for manuvering too. Its half organuc half ceramic; slips more kindly.
Need to do ujoint and check ac pressures. Lost effective cooling. Time to see how bad that compressor seal leak really is.
Ill throw a can at it, if that lasts less than a year it’ll get swapped and fixed right.
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Ujoint was a total bitch but it’s done. 1555 joints do not push the cap free when bottomed out, by a margin of probably 3/8†or more. Annoying.
Pinion bearings feel loose enough to give a through check with parts on hand. Bah.
I don’t remember if I touched the pinion when I did the ARB install. I should have just had to set backlash with a carrier change I think? Don’t remember.
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runs like a top.
so now the AC is taking a shit.
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Ac gone. Boo.
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Bought another set of gauges on the road, found it about one psi too low to engage. Fed it one can, bought two for the road! Back to lukewarm tolerable air!
That 30 pounds in my garage right now was an effective investment.
Compressor, desiccant and oriface tube, please!
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Ac is out again. Was sure I smelled it after I shut down at home after mg last trip. I was right.
Arb o ring is gone too. Compressor runs and air comes our the vent. Boo.
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got this back from ARB
Typical service life of the o rings is many years. They are "bathed" in gear oil and typically last many years. I suspect you probably have a nick or cut in the copper line to the seal housing causing your major air leak.
We recommend a minimum air pressure of 70psi all the way up to 150psi for proper engagement and use.
O rings can be purchased through most vendors or 4 Wheel parts. They are p# 160246SP. sold as a pair.​
I guess we'll see once I can take the truck down for a bit. Probably check return policies and just stock up on all possible needed parts
- pinion bearings
- pinion seal
- find a speedy sleeve for the worn pinion yoke seal surface. I measured that last time I changed the seal, no idea where that went...
- arb o rings
- arb seal housing
- 5mm air line repair kit
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and I guess an AC compressor, drier, oriface tube and some oil belong on a list too. maybe I'll put that off 'till spring at this point.
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bummer. i have put 4 arb's in on street jeeps. about a year service so far, no issues.
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and I guess an AC compressor, drier, oriface tube and some oil belong on a list too. maybe I'll put that off 'till spring at this point.
We literally should combine our trucks' a/c problems to have two trucks with good A/C.
My truck's a/c is broken but in a completely opposite way. It gets WAY too cold, kinda feel like as if I open a freezer. If I let it running long enough I'll get zero air flow due to the evaporator all iced up. I need to turn the a/c off perodically to keep the ice down.
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you could be overcharged?
I don't remember if there's an evap temp sensor on the 2nd gen but if there isn't I'm not sure how they are supposed to prevent that. There probably is one and it's probably failed. IDK if there could be any way to get to it without pulling and splitting the HVAC box
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There's high and low pressure switches I believe because my truck have orifice tube. I think the low pressure switch (on cold side, post evaporator) is bad so it don't turn off when the pressure get too low.
and technically no, overcharge don't make a/c colder. overcharge will act similar to undercharge (cycling, mostly due to too high pressure on hot side).
I plan to literally tear down my dash down to firewall eventually.... I will need to do that to put in the dash I got from you in like 3 years ago? Major job to replace the dash so I am holding it off until I have everything I'll need to do everything else while I'm there anyhow... heater core, evaporator, some hvac door actuators (none are broke right now but might as well replace the ones that's not easily replaced when all assembled, 20 years old now and 300k, so something has to give anytime soon) and rewire most, if not, everything behind the dash and possibly new, custom cluster to get my gauges off my a pillar.... I only can do so much...
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rear diff and ARB parts all ordered from justdifferentials including a listed speedie sleeve for the pinion yoke seal.
will plan to do this work the week of 10/1
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Need to do rear brakes this week. Have to check the parts pile to see if I have pads. I know I have ebrake shoes and hardware kit in stock.... may need rotors too, haven't looked but grinding on brake application is noted.
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rear diff and ARB parts all ordered from justdifferentials including a listed speedie sleeve for the pinion yoke seal.
will plan to do this work the week of 10/1
Wow, fail. Haven't touched that. Arb started working again though.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I want a 20" single row on everything I drive. Better than high beams.
Missed this a LOT this trip. It died. I get a tiny flicker when power is applied and removed.
It's been wet inside for a while. I'm sure the board turned green :(
Not sure I'll have a chance to double check power is good before next trip but I don't think I'm that lucky.
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Sounds like a power issue, Let me know after you check power and we can get a new one on the way.
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Thanks !!
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Least favorite job complete. Took about 75m to tires off with a decent bit of 10#ing
Needs pads and rotors. Weeee
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170605/882b49b66e246728bed10813c26ab02b.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I have found the secret to talking duals off is get a Porta power and push the rims off. Way less effort and cursing
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o god getting the 17.5s off the kitchen hauler i had to take two nights at it. super baseball bat swings with the 20lb sledge
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I was wishing for a porta power.
Hub pilots suuuuck
I imagine real truck wheels are even more fun.
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I have not had any issues with my dump truck but my 20 ton trailer I think a Porta power is the only way if the person before you didn't put never seize on there
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I was wishing for a porta power.
Hub pilots suuuuck
I imagine real truck wheels are even more fun.
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back in days I worked at a heavy equipment repair shop and there's this one Mexican, he has to be shorter than any of us in the flx club. He deal with stuff like this day to day basis, along with clutch jobs in 18 wheelers. One of hardest workers I know.
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rear brake job is no joke on this unit.
also found wet gear oil so that's getting changed.
ac is almost done.
going to work now to optimize daylight use.
solid last minuting.
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only warning of a complete LF wheel bearing failure was an unexplained sound like birds chirping.
exactly how I want to spend my saturday morning!
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/3dc0d2a78595416d4d084d40a2e57f7b.jpg)
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Your awesome
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I think that's about where spencer started out with his 12 valve :)
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Almost 100k since you got it? How's the blow by?
I drove my dodge for ~102k miles since 2011. At 302,xxx miles as of today. Bad blow by, though. I think it's from WMO.
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I think just under 80k in 3.3yr. I brought it home St. Patrick's Day with something like 342 or 346k on it.
blowby was almost nill then, I haven't checked it lately. No elephant hose on this, I still run PCV into the intake as factory. I should probably replace that filter, I think it's supposed to be a maintenance item. I should probably replace or clean the nasty K&N too, it's finally almost all the way down to the red line on the filter gauge. It's been "well filtered" since I bought it.
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https://www.facebook.com/michael.maskalans/posts/10100934346329298
Little pinion play. Master install on the shelf. Not making any noise, I bet the pinion but is loose again. It's getting a weld on reassembly if it is. I've retightened it 3x since arb install.
Maybe I get to crawl under there Friday. Buggy prep and tire repair Thursday. Don't get to take tomorrow off, just thurs-fri.
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I should probably get a ring & pinion on order, they are probably not going to look perfect judging from the metallic sheen in the mud brown overflow I saw just now after topping off the diff.
I can't wait for this weekend! It'd better not rain.
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This thing has a little click that’s driving me nuts. I was sure it was the steering shaft, that’s still what it feels like.
I guess I need to check all ball joints and tie rods and track bar and unit bearings and whatever else real closely. Nothing feels loose in handling, no wobble or dead spot, but I feel that click through the wheel and I do not like.
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Looks like nothing but my mistake on the rearend. Crush sleeve wasn’t crushed enough, bearings look good. Races feel perfect. I’ll toss the new bearings on and crush that thing good this time. Mostly because I dropped the outer in the dirt. Fuck I hate working on this shit here.
One case bearing mildly spun, on the arb seal housing side. I’ll stake the case a bit with a punch before installing new. I figured one new all now so I pulled the other was well. It was super tight.
Seal housing retainer wore through the copper line, that was the point of failure there. I bent that in a little so it won’t be able to rub again. Surprised at the case wear where the o rings ride. Gotta be a couple thou. I can’t find my goddamn calipers to put a number on it so I hope old pinion depth is good.
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torque specs
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/125-drivetrain-2001-2010/462098-11-5-aam-torque-spec.html
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Running same setup as before. 3 fresh bearings.
Drive side looks like pinion is a hair deep, if it’s going to move any from here it’ll go a hair shallower once crush sleeve is locked down. Coast side couldn’t look better which is indicator for setting up used gear sets. I’ve convinced myself.
If I get this together maybe I’ll go to the meeting tonight but I think not. More interested in solving work problems that I left running at the office this afternoon so maybe I get to Utah.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170927/cb19f8ab6c4c9dadbaaf7f00ead859c9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170927/f1a2f634ca9d6e481a5b2079724eb50b.jpg)
I think I definitely caused some gear wear. Backlash currently at .006-.008 around the ring. One notch tighter it was at .002-.006.
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All done, just need to clean up and top off gear oil. Ran out.
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All good through a turn & burn to DC.
Gearset is definitely quieter than it had been.
I should find my ir temp gun. Curious about rearend temp and also curious if my turndown goes low enough or if I’m going to cook a shock bushing out.
Front end still has the rattle that made me put in a steering shaft along with replacing the box. Going to go through ball joints and bearings tomorrow, maybe driver side ball joints are bad. Passenger were done maybe 10k ago. Passenger just got a bearing too.
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Upper bj and wb both have play. Not shocking. Proof to do things in sets.
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Need to do sway bar links.
Maybe shocks?
Rattle 90% gone. Steering super nice. 110 miles of functional cruise control and counting. Not too far from doubling miles driven with cruise under my ownership. Hopefully LF speed sensor routing is now safe... third try a charm.
Put 1/8 turn on most oil pan bolts. See if that dries up a wet side of the pan.
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Found 2 pissers tonight.
1. Don’t have clearance to pull the hinge pin for the turnover ball. Box steel crossmember under the bed is fully in the way. Didn’t feel like cutting that out to weld it back together tonight. Need a box wrench or a crescent that goes just over 1 3/8â€, probably 36mm, since the opposite crossmember blocks socket access.
2. Gear oil inside the driver side wheel and on the backing plate. I thought I just did hub seals this summer along with all the other rearend work but I guess I get to do one again. That should be fun.
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Hitch looks like it'll work well. Need to build out a box, the stringers are a few inches further apart than I was hoping for.
Hopefully I can get a hand on that from smike at some point. Cut out the old, weld in the new!
it's fun rereading this thread.
need to unbuild part of this box for maintenance almost 5 years later. Hard to believe I've had this thing for almost 5 years. If it weren't for the pre-broken axle shaft, and the poor factory tank venting, this thread would be much shorter.
Early pics before the CM bed rusted to shit make me a little sad. I'm looking at cheap aluminum toolboxes right now. Think I'll pull the trigger and try to get at least 2 on before CA. Should be a day or two of work to mount all.
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Fuel line is frozen. Started fine this morning but I only got to drive about 3/4 of a mile. Kim and the mule saved me! eagle didn't have enough juice to start.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/myzahumu.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/ade2eqa2.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/yte7uny3.jpg)
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
oh man, good times!
this was the most recently before now that we had a real winter!
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Mercedes had 0-1 psi fuel pressure on gauge most of the way to work yesterday. Got a strong dose of Power Service white bottle and it slowly improved. Got lucky!
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I had the same leaving the Jokinens at I think it was 3F on Sunday. Got better after 5+ min of run time. It had been fine as low as -5F earlier while driving, so the overflow going back to the tank makes a big difference.
I've got a little smoke going right now; 2 grey bottles ready to go into the tank at the next 2 fillups.
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Wtf? Strange choices. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180108/858b1f3dac230b46ee56a58ed51c7e27.jpg)
Feed +12 from 2 sides, molded in, via scotch lock. Twice. And ground through an aluminum rivet.
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hub seal changed, underbody boxes arrive today. I'll have a hard time not doing those right away since I've wanted them for so long, but that really should be very last priority.
I'd like to get it to delta sonic for an interior detail before I go. otherwise I think it's ready.
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2.5†channel to make mounts comes tomorrow. Piss poor timing. Piss poor planning.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180111/9380f760a40e4896ecb77176ec493e0a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180111/aa758f6b1bbc30ef13b0a3c6499386a3.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180111/317eb12ef3a98151da4c1ee4a7d6e984.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180111/53f61a3f63540c1f64f94e8fd5bf9461.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180111/070d71e686de6c9c8b933da74d74a30a.jpg)
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Hope they're waterproofed very good from tire spray.
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I’ll plan to put a forward mudflap on. That’s asking an awful lot of any seal.
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or weld a straight plate of metal next to the box.
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they are poly boxes. I have some trepidation but I'm hoping it's a good balance between weight, cost, and quality.
cheap steel boxes rust to shit immediately. cheap aluminum boxes are super under built. steel boxes weigh 3x what these do (95 vs 30, both plus mounting). these poly boxes are about the same price as super cheap aluminum or cheap steel and I'm hoping they have quality closer to higher end steel. We'll see.
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shoulda gone with 3" channel.
need to do some gusseting, otherwise I'd be drilling holes and spraying paint right now instead of in from the cold for dinner.
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Box brackets just need paint and final assembly. Everything mounted and drilled and stuff.
Couple mud flaps would be good too.
Anybody have 3’ of 4†garden edging I could have for a quickie fix?
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180117/38d3f0192e3f00647a9c13fe009d56a6.jpg)
Steel warming up for paint. Not sure where I’ll spray or where I’ll let them dry yet. :-/
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I got a space :)
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I brought 'em to work today. gonna use the spray booth in Rettner Hall.
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Boxes are on. I goofed on clearance by a little bit. I’ll know if they settle when they’re loaded up. Need to adjust the flange on the flatbed a little bit and I’ll call them good for now. I think I can resist the motivation to put lights in them and move the arb until more important tasks are complete.
I’m so fucking ADD.
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Saw dash volt gauge at 18 sustained today. Edge and cig lighter showed 14 and 14.6 respectively. Needle had lost its zero somehow. Cluster self test at second fuel stop fixed that.
Low pressure fuel gauge spiked to 100psi for a while (5 minutes? Maybe 10). It usually lives at 5-8, occasionally around 1-2. While I was waiting to find a good spot to check that out, it went back down to where it belongs over the course of 30 seconds. Resetting the Edge had made no difference so either it was a short and the readout has some significant smoothing, or an actual pressure fluke of the cp3 back feeding supply or who knows what.
Half an hour ago I started getting “service required, visit dealer now†on the overhead. (5 hours after the low pressure thing) No codes stored. Checked with Edge and with Smarty. Cleared with Smarty. Guess I’ll reload the tune if that repeats tomorrow? No drivability symptoms. Just a nice ding with nothing in the cluster. Overhead only.
All the prep done I’ve done and still weird shit just happens. Because mikemike?
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6th gear countershaft and main shaft gears ebay'd. bleh.
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Must be going around.. 6th gear in my truck is starting to get moody, going to change the oil with some additive and see what happens.. It could have been due to the cold temps the last time it was driven as well.
If it doesn't help I need to make a serious decision between putting some money into it or shipping it. Unfortunately for me it just got new batteries and tires in December..
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No moodiness here. Just broke a tooth. Click/snap and then a horrible cyclic rumble in 6th. I can hear a click in gearover noise at idle but it’s run about 3000 miles since Albuquerque where it happened without grenading...
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180427/4c61ba01146d484e7b56749aa3c69ced.jpg)
found my teeth.
Disappointed in the silver in the oil. Hoped I could put it back in after 30k. Maybe think about sending it. Hmmm
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Have to find docs and remind myself what the trick is to splitting the case. I think I’m missing one more fork pivot.
May be over to the shop tomorrow if gears need pressing.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180428/147b95f4087051d5792a318a6f2f1d86.jpg)
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I should have remembered from last time how annoying it is to get proper fluid for this thing.
spent 2 hours digging. found nothing likely local. 2 gallons of Mobil Delvac Synthetic MTF 50 will be here Tuesday. Unless that's something in stock at Main St but from what I think I recall last time when I put Pennzoil Synchromesh in it, I don't think it was.
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I don't remember what fluid I put into my transmission but I got maybe 2 gallons of it left over. It was that fancy stuff from Emerson oil. You are welcome to use that if it will work
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xler mtf, you call RAM and see how much of a dry adventure that is?
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ma mopar runs ATF+4 in these things.
Typical fuck mike's life finding: input shaft is missing a tooth again. all parts departments closed so can't check local price/availability.
if I'm lucky I can have one Tuesday, and then get to assemble and install the whole fucker instead of just filling it with oil.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180428/9eb9cfcacfba8f2eceb43f80402be52e.jpg)
Better and better.
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$125 to ship next day from pure diesel power (Wisconsin) to get an input shaft here tuesday. $375 to my door for a shaft and bearing.
We'll see what Dodge can do first thing Monday.
AMP Distributing, who I bought parts through previously, doesn't offer next day on their web site. Priority mail 2 day for $13. sigh.
Piss poor planning is my middle name!
Shaft: g56-16a (3 ID rings, 28 tooth)
Bearing: 32210
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Here’s an easy way for that parts list to get out of hand on your dealer repair, mike:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180430/960f2b02b8331fea877d5280cd4da700.jpg)
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oof
hopefully you talked to a human in Wisconsin and got shipment confirmation over the phone.
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Thanks Brett for sanity checking me and looking at rockauto. Order placed for a USA Standard Gear input shaft. Fingers crossed.
Wondering if I should get something better on a slow boat for when that twists so I have it on the shelf.
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No problem!
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Thruway spring saved my day. 20t prop would have been enough if we took the hidden snap ring off. Under the bearing.
Mechanic who suspected it was there got an extra tip from me. Coulda really ruined my day if not for him!!
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Wondering if I should get something better on a slow boat for when that twists so I have it on the shelf.
Hunt for a complete G56 so you’ll have a complete unit on hand to swap? IMHO the original case is compromised. Cracked & welded, repeated failures.
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wasnt it just an ear welded though?
use, tune, gearing, HP is probably more of the problem.....
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Thruway spring saved my day. 20t prop would have been enough if we took the hidden snap ring off. Under the bearing.
Mechanic who suspected it was there got an extra tip from me. Coulda really ruined my day if not for him!!
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o shit!
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looks like 2500$ with a 600-1000 core with good case halves
most dont warranty "broken gears" WTF else is there to warranty in a manual?
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Thanks Brett for sanity checking me and looking at rockauto. Order placed for a USA Standard Gear input shaft. Fingers crossed.
Wondering if I should get something better on a slow boat for when that twists so I have it on the shelf.
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rock auto doesnt list an input shaft for my truck, thought it was same?
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Thanks Brett for sanity checking me and looking at rockauto. Order placed for a USA Standard Gear input shaft. Fingers crossed.
Wondering if I should get something better on a slow boat for when that twists so I have it on the shelf.
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rock auto doesnt list an input shaft for my truck, thought it was same?
RockAuto don’t list everything for some reason. Need to search the part # then it’ll show up. Since the dealer listed the part # for MikeMike’s G56 so it’s probably safe to assume they does interchange.
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wasnt it just an ear welded though?
use, tune, gearing, HP is probably more of the problem.....
and driving style (related to long gearing). Will run with high RPMs from here. May generally tow in 5th, it made nearly no difference in economy - though I did run I think 62-63 in 5th as opposed to 68ish in 6th.
Thanks Brett for sanity checking me and looking at rockauto. Order placed for a USA Standard Gear input shaft. Fingers crossed.
Wondering if I should get something better on a slow boat for when that twists so I have it on the shelf.
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rock auto doesnt list an input shaft for my truck, thought it was same?
I would expect it to be the same. Does rockouto show you truck at all? cross reference for the USA Standard part I bought only shows 2500 & 3500 trucks 2007-2018.
I believe all neccessary bits will arrive tomorrow.
oil
input
input bearing
front countershaft bearing just found on amazon (cage bent with 3 jaw puller)
Slap shit together, I think I will need to check countershaft shim clearance with the gold plated jig since I'm changing a bearing, oil it, install it.
Mike, you good on that tractor fetch for me tomorrow? I put a caliper on the trailer yesterday and safety wired all the bolts. None of the others were loose at all.
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ya i can grab it if it will help. im tied up tonight with a TJ that got dropped for asap fix. brandy new JK will have to wait till this weekend
44" inside tire spacing is that OK on your trailer or need to bring cribing?
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It will be tight but should be good. I forgot to measure it, but math, memory, and photos all indicate it's around a 41" opening.
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i suppose with a bucket down it wont matter haha
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and a backblade to save the butt, too! Good call :)
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random thought: I haven't fully gathered my straps yet, but if you don't want to throw yours on, there are some by both the side and rear doors of Joe, plus chains and one binder in the chain basket on the trailer.
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sent Tim a txt for pickup details when he is available tomorrow
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successfull parts delivery?
printed out my paper work i need Iowa guy to sign
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UPS and FedEx both deliver to me around 1430, so not yet.
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Input shaft and bearing reportedly delivered. Time to go home!!
Gotta finish some summer planning first. 'tis the season.
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tractor pick up
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Parts and fluids accounted for. Home, fed, Changing clothes and starting assembly.
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Fucked up and put the shifter on it before I filled it.
Needs oil and interior trim.
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All good! Broke in the gears with a good 5 mile scoot up to Winton & back at varied speeds and gears. Tow-ready.
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Accidentally went ~13,000 on this oil change. I target 7500 and usually hit 9000.
434,905
Full of California dust.
Dash gauges are getting glitchy. First time I fired it I only showed tach. All gauges work in self test. Volts stayed dead through test drive. That’s been the most frequent misbehaver since KOH.
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I have a decent test tow 😉
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Would be nice if timing worked out to start with the rover. Leaving tomorrow for the Wild West.
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4 years on a water pump seems less than expected. Needs one again.
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I’ll have one waiting for you if needed
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Upper radiator hose leaking at water neck.
Why does my fleet all have so many cooling system problems at once??
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Had a weird air bubble in the cooling system today. No issues on a trip fri-sat, it got hot (235-240) after a trip across town-shutdown-restart. cooled back to 190-200 per usual as soon as the fan ramped up. Pushed a ton of coolant into the overflow. Did a combustion gas test and it was clean. Water came out the neck as soon as the thermostat opened. I capped it and it drew a couple quarts back from overflow as it cooled. It’s never ever done anything like that. Very strange hiccough.
Threw AC gauges on it since they were out and pressure differential is high, so it’s got some extra restriction somewhere. It was all 100% new parts 4ish years ago. Annoying. It was only keeping up when on recirc at 95F. And either it doesn’t have a high pressure limit switch or that switch is bad, since with whatever cooling fan issue the truck has it’ll blow out the relief if I run ac while sitting still when it’s hot. Truck got a new fan clutch 2-3yr ago as first effort to repair this, which means it’s either wiring or ECU. Will redouble my research efforts to hot wire the stupid viscous fan heater.
Sarah’s Malibu held vacuum, so I charged it. Was flat empty. See how long that lasts. Got very close to in-spec pressures, at least something on that car (and something today) cooperated.
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FSM in PDF ebayed for £5.79
seems too good to be true but I guess the EU has protections making repair information public domain, so...
I'll find out shortly.
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Merica!
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Think I’m going to put a thermostat in. I think it’s sticking closed at initial warmup. That temp spike causes coolant to be pushed out and it doesn’t draw it back in for some reason. Was running hot towing to Attica today and was then all better when I dumped in a gallon or so from the truck plus got it to draw in from the overflow.
I swapped radiator cap when this started so it has a lev-r-vent on it. So much better when there’s an issue!!
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Zero issues or irregularities since topping off coolant.
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Cooling stupidity returned. Have topped off twice. Must do thermostat.
Something mildly loose in front end. Enough for a dead spot, which the steering stabilizer masks to the point of misdiagnosis. Expect to be track bar.
16.5 steady indicated (15.4 actual) on interstate with messy air from lawn and snow equipment. 21.5 indicated across highway 8 from Crandon to MSP in 5th at 62, 1900rpm. Still showing 19.9 after near 200 miles of 72ish in i94 and some around town and county driving today. Curious to see actual tank economy. Will find out in the morning. I’m expecting actual of 19 give or take a half
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Only 16.4 actual. Disappointing
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Only 16.4 actual. Disappointing
It used to have better mileage?
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Used to be within 10-15% of computer typically. I just did Janesville-ish wi to the Rez. 19.2-19.8 on the overhead. 17 actual. Not bad with a toolbox catching wind running 74 for most of it. But not the 20 that it teased me with!
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AC compressor went again. No cooling at all on my return from Crandon, and I tried it on the way home yesterday and got nothing - forgot to switch it off and had a bad smell from the outside like it melted the seals.
I should price out having that work done, if it would come with a 4 year warranty, since it seems that's as long as AC components last for me.
Going to check out all pressure switches too, have a feeling that high and low limit switches are either faulty or bypassed.
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One steer tire with real poor wear
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190912/0d1776037f150e6970f13d5bc0c27651.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190912/4debdf2f66e5ea1daaa99713252c71c8.jpg)
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pretty sure that's a sign of bad shock or spring (bet you already know that too).
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just put some extra air in ;)
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Tried to bypass failed ac compressor before the meeting Wednesday. Forgot that the compressor needs to be removed to move the tensioner to no-ac position so I put that on hold.
So I guess I should just do the full repair (for the second if not third time). At least parts are getting cheaper with age. Under $300 for a full “kit.â€
Ordered an ac system pressure transducer too. Only diagnosable via scan tool, but its what should trigger the engine cooling fan, and do all system pressure protection, which has appeared not to function properly for a couple years.
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Did you prioritized A/C over front end issues, at this part of the year? Lol
I haven’t have a A/C failure in my 2nd gen Ram in almost 10 years. All issues I had with A/C were from something else.
Try find a new OEM compressor and maybe that’ll last longer?
What this full ‘kit’ include? Absolute guaranteed repair job will be to replace everything...
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When I was stranded once by an unplugged but bad ac compressor locking up on me once, yes. It’s a priority for sure.
And yes the kit it everything but evap and liquid line. I’ve done the dance a couple times. Pressures were never perfect on this install, plus it pushed Freon out due to overpressure several times. It still lasted 60k.
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Everything replaced, clutch won’t engage. Gave it 12v and it clicks so it seems that the ECU isn’t calling for ac. Or i have a coincidental wiring issue (seems far fetched). No codes. Tried old pressure transducer and it doesn’t have it fire, either - and that one let it run ALL the time.
$3000 for a scan tool to see what the ECU really is doing. Pretty great. I love a totally integrated power module.
At least it should be a reliable serpentine accessory system and I can drive the truck again, but fuck is that frustrating.
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I lied. I hadn’t j stalled the old transducer. It’s high limit is bad but it’s low limit works. Clutch engages. Not going to charge now though since the fucking schraeder for the transducer port is bad and leaks enough that I can’t install a new sensor with seal.
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Double dummy: schreader out of the old drier was right size for transducer port. Just need to get new OE transducer and swap. Should be 100% in a few aside from high pressure protection. So back to status quo from previous 3yr.
That’s why I post that shit when i get frustrated. It makes me think even if it takes a minute
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At least it should be a reliable serpentine accessory system and I can drive the truck again, but fuck is that frustrating.
How come you didn’t just bypass it to get by?
FWIW
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/belt-routing.252170/
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Have to remove the compressor to use no-ac routing. That means leaving the system open. Thought I addressed this.
I carry a no-ac belt. Changing the serpentine on that truck is murder. Worst serp I ever do. And I’m not going to not fix the aircon, so best to just do it.
Nice to know I have a transducer issue now and not on the first hot weekend in June, right?
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Coolant pushing issue still a thing. Either a trapped bubble is not working out or I have a head gasket or turbo issue introducing gasses to the coolant. Tried to do a combustion gas test again but it just pushed coolant into the thingie. Need to try when cold with lower radiator level.
Not sure what to do. Been thinking of selling but clearly must fix that issue first.
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The internet says it’s my head gasket. I can’t deny the likelihood of that. When rad cap and tstat didn’t fix it’s almost got to be. Should have ballpark 130-150,000 on this head and head gasket. I’ve not looked to see if it was studded or still has head bolts.
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tempted enough to send this that I wrote it up. just needs photos. Not sure if price is realistic with milage, but body and frame condition really are excellent, and I don't know if it's worth sending if I can't get at very least 10k from it. If I keep it and registration/inspection become an issue, it'll have to get significantly older quite suddenly, and I'll have a cab for sale...
2007 6.7 Cummins 6 speed Ram 3500
$12,500, neg
currently needs head gasket. runs and drives but pushes coolant - gently - at all times while running. new rad cap made no change.
discount: -$2500
quad cab 4x2 Cab & Chassis
CM 9' flatbed & headache rack. 2" receiver and turnover 2 5/16" gooseneck ball.
Been in NY for 6 winters, with limited winter driving. Zero rot anywhere, and very nearly zero rust on body and frame. Wheels and bed are due for refinishing.
Drivers doors both dented in rocker area from a deer. Passenger rear door has a scratch in same area below the body line.
Will break 20mpg empty
Heated cloth seats (aftermarket - Wet Okle)
AC just rebuilt (compressor, condensor, drier, evap flushed)
7x steel 19.5 wheels and tires, tread ~60%+
crossbed aluminum toolbox and 2x plastic underbody tool boxes
Factory 52 gallon rear mount fuel tank
Edge Insight with pyro, turbo timer
Smarty Jr. programmer
30k on cooling fan clutch
25k on front brakes, wheel bearings, ball joints
20k on South Bend dual disc clutch
20k on trans lube
20k on trans bearings - did NOT do synchros. Shifts slightly stiff if you don't match.
35k on all fuel filters (3) - factory plus aftermarket fuel/water and 5 micron
70k on injectors without any issues since
reportedly new head and new turbo around 320-330k 2 owners ago. no paperwork.
possibly original CP3 - no issues
rerouted and extended fuel tank vent
5k on oil and filter
30k on rearend oil
2.5 years on batteries
rear axle rebuilt with new bearings, 3.42 gears, chromoly axle shafts, ARB air locker at 354k
36' 12k Kaufman car hauler available.
20-30k on new Dexter 7k axles, new springs, bolts, hangers.
LED lit with repeaters and markers
1 year on new steel deck.
HD ramps, slide in the back
electric over hydraulic brakes, 2 years and ~10k on new pads.
7000# winch with wireless remote, solar trickle charger, functional breakaway.
Registered through Feb 2022 (?)
3000 with truck
4000 on its own
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quit your bitchen and throw a head gasket at that hawg lol
3-4k for that trailer seems like a deal.
i think my winch is a 10k no? ;D
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That was from memory. I know the one that died was a 7.
HG or not, it’s sitting more than not by a LONG shot now.
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Exhaust mani, valve train, injectors, and head bolts to go. Driver side of the engine is all set to pull apart.
It doesn’t have head studs. I couldn’t remember. No way to know if these bolts were reused 150k ago when the work was done before it went to auction.
Hopefully all looks good and I can just put a gasket in it for another 100k.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200618/989306988437f328b709029e056763bd.jpg)
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Got about half the exhaust bolts out. Fun ones for sure. I need to get one of those scaffolding’s that wraps the front of a truck. And/or a topside creeper. I don’t think taking the front tires off would buy me enough to matter. I was working tonight standing on the plastic crossbed toolbox that was in the Mule. I’m slowly crushing it, but it’s almost the right height for a short guy working on a full-size truck.
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When I have to work on my truck, I pull it in between my two post lift with the arms either in front of the bumper, or along the side of the engine compartment (along side of the tires, not under the truck) and use the lift arms to stand on at whatever height I need for top side work.
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You have the luxury of multiple car lifts, un-bolt & lift cab up & out of the way? I am not sure how feasible that is on 3rd gen Dodge Rams, though.
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40" mounted tires layed down is my my go too for this.
dont you have a paint booth full of tires that roll
LOL at brett idea :o
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LOL at brett idea :o
Standard Operating procedure for a Ford!
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That's why I don't Ford!!!
We'll see if I'm tempted to lift the cab at all when it comes time to lift the head. I doubt it. I don't love how much dust is coming off the under cowl insulation though. I'm going to have to do extra cleaning and maybe look at removing it for install to keep sand out on assembly.
I like the lift arm idea. Especially with a 2x12 secured across the arms in front. I may have to try that out. Need to build my truck mover hitch plate for the forktruck!
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My lift arms lock into position so I just spin them in 90 degrees.
I think making a simple platform that slides into the lift pad holes might be a good idea.
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I use my 45q RTIC cooler as my standing platform when I'm in the engine bay of my Sierra. That cooler is rock solid planted to the ground and wont move one bit, and easy to move around when needed.
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HG failed at back edge of #1, easy leak from #1 to coolant passage between 1&2.
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easy fix clean it and isntall new or does that require head work?
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easy fix clean it and isntall new or does that require head work?
Look like it, as long as flatness, run out & surface roughness check out good.
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Need to finish cleanup and slap it back together. Should be running by end of week.
Would likely be late tonight if not for club meeting. And if not for not finding a few tools quickly last night.
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I bet it's a lot more enjoyable working on the truck in the new shop now
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Compared to driveway? fuck yes.
It's annoying to have to tarp things to keep bird feathers and shit out of things, hopefully I get them taken care of next week. And it's annoying to not really be set up yet, but it's very much a learning experience to work in here and feel out how things maybe should be arranged.
The back corner where I'm working on the Ram is good for a project that'll take a little while to not be in the way of other things and have some room for parts. Should be a good part-out place too.
The office side feels right for machining and fabrication, which means that 4 post lift isn't in the right place because it's the wrong tool for that work. I don't know that there's room for that anywhere.
Not rushing into any changes unless something happens with employment. I've got plenty of time to figure it out.
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Take your time before committing things to places..
Beginning of covid I rearranged my shop/store room for the 4th time in 4 years..
Shelving helps... dumpster helps even more.
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I’ve learned and proved over and over that more shelvings or work benches likely cause more issues than they solve. They all will just become catch-alls! Unless have good self discipline
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Whoever said to themselves that the solid bar picking the head was not safe and would slip was correct.
Damaged the head gasket at the very least.
Fucking idiot
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Lucked out, I think.
Waste of a little money, not a pull and deck the block.
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I missed Cummins order cutoff. Regional doesn’t have stock. Order tomorrow, in on Monday. Humbug!!
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Whoever said to themselves that the solid bar picking the head was not safe and would slip was correct.
Damaged the head gasket at the very least.
Fucking idiot
I thought that was “the way†from the picture...
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if I'd put a strap or clamp on to keep the hook from slipping to one extreme on its way in, it would have been great & ideal. The tight clearance of a fixed bar is much more ideal than a strap or chains or anything else. It went in on a single 2" ratchet strap with a safety strap; didn't try to slip.
80% assembled.
set valve lash (and roll motor over in the process to make sure all is happy in pushrod land and I don't bend another one. Double checked them all on the way in)
fuel rail & injection lines
one banjo bolt on a fuel return line that got bent a bit when the head fell, that'll be fun and is what made me wash up to head in
intake horn
injector harness
valve cover
air box and intake to turbo
double check for spare parts
fill coolant
Should be done in 2 hours.
Hope it's good. Wonder what won't be since there's always something with me & mine.
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Done?
Lathe & phase converter still available. Will empty the flatbed tomorrow and plan to grab it on Sunday. Do a little test driving around in the mean time. Cleaning up the shop now
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And it was 3-4 hours. Not 2
30-60min wasted for a loose connection at CP3 that I thought was just having trouble getting all air bled. Thought I’d tightened it but i was just making a fuel puddle
Hopefully that’s my one issue!
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Lots of years threatening to move that toolbox.
Just a bit of cleanup and repacking to do. And maybe make a spare tire mount.
Will find out tomorrow if bed length is adequate for the lathe. Rough guess was 8’ overall.
Arb seems to have sprung a leak. Didn’t check if the locker engaged or not. Compressor cycles every few seconds instead of running once and never again.
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Aircon appears to need attention. Wasn’t quite keeping up at only 80F
Need to make sure my water in fuel sensor is plugged in securely. Had WIF light come on 5 miles from my pickup point after driving in Rausch Creek Asspour Rain for 10ish miles solid. It turned off before I got to an exit. Sight glass in my first water filter is completely clean so I’m certain it was false positive.
So very good to have the do-all truck back on the road â¤ï¸ï¸
Now it’s time for a drink!
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Excellent news.
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I use my 45q RTIC cooler as my standing platform when I'm in the engine bay of my Sierra. That cooler is rock solid planted to the ground and wont move one bit, and easy to move around when needed.
As pictured. ;D
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Slightly ugly, especially in the tailgate area since I didn’t have a full 8’ piece of 3/4 handy, nor any hooks and eyes, so a strap for now. But it’s ready to haul some shit. (And then unload by hand)
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what do we have here? whatcha hauling?
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I whipped up some quick stake sides for wood at Brett’s the other day. Upgraded them.
Wood and compost/topsoil. Probably brush and branches from tree trimming next week, not that that really needs sides. Sand and gravel as needed for beach and driveway.
All things that want it to dump :)
I need a 40s cab on a 4x4 chassis with dump bed and plow. The year round fun machine. After the Chevy breaks in half.
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i have one of those in my barn ready to go, needs the dumb bed part though :)
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If it fits it ships. Let’s go get fuel oil from the back side of a rando’s house!
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That picture just made me think of the Jeff foxworthy bit how you know your a redneck if you have a working TV on top of a non working TV
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I love Gus
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Could really use low range but full send worked. 100 gallons in the bed.
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Stakesides doing werk
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Need to move the spare tire to be able to get a couple feet closer and shorten it up for campus parking. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201009/db7610465655d561a8f96a47761c5a21.jpg)
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Intermittent problem has become more frequent. I think voltage regulator is failing in a weird way. For a minute or five a couple times per hour, all electricals pulse. I had my voltmeter-equipped usb charger in place today and when it’s good I see 14.6-14.7v. When it’s pulsing at maybe 5-8Hz, I see a min/max of 13.7 to 15.1.
I expect the regulator is in the PCM. truck is on its third alternator that I know of, year or two old. Could be poor response and lag in alt? Or bad pcm regulator?
Need to decide between throwing alternator at it or setting up an external regulator, I think. It’s irregular enough that it would be hard to sketch with a scan tool unless it was on all the time. The CTS insight sees a steady 13.0v at all times. I don’t know if it’s measuring, or polling ECU.
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You had Lucas electronics on the trailer
I’m sure that had something to do with it...
Try it again once disconnected...
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how about a wire brush to the battery contacts and check chassis grounds before we get all nick and excel on this
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>:-(
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Dead batteries a month ago. cleaned all terminals and contact points at the batteries thoroughly and it's been good. Haven't driven it long enough nor at dusk/dark to see if the overcharge/pulse charging thing has changed from it. Started right up today.
Threw it on the lift, pulled rear wheels expecting to find rear brakes worn to nothing and they are at least at 50-70%.
It has acted like a stuck caliper once or twice, and pedal feel changed a smidge a bit ago. I guess I'll check the slides and e-brake hardware but it's drum-in-disk, so that shouldn't have any effect on pedal feel at all. Very strange.
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batteries have been behaving.
just did oil change and fuel filters and swapped that LR caliper. tightened the steering box. for my ref: redhead box has 3/16 hex and uses double jam nuts, top 11/16, lower 5/8
probably turned the hex in nearly 1 full turn. it's 1/16 turn loose of touching. put the front on the turntables and no binding through full steering range. hopefully that fixes the wander/loose feeling.
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if it wants to strech its legs I may have something :)
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next couple weeks are peak time crunch, but let me know!
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working on another 5 door 109
I think Shirley Mass area
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find a 50s IH or cheby cap to snap up for me out along the way. not much within 500 miles around here
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Overhead was reporting 19.5-20.0 mpg at 70mph across i90 eastbound tonight with the KOT Case on the deck.
Still at 19.4 in Bennington VT for the night. Tail wind was 20 gusting 30. Nice!
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just ordered shocks and a steering damper. going to go over brakes bearings and ball joints with a fine tooth comb before MO trip. Brakes aren't where I'd like them to be even with the fresh rear caliper and lack of rattle.
Probably put on new steer tires too. or at least rotate the current steers to a drive corner. They're getting choppier and louder, and got annoying on a 7 hour drive. The a-pillar whistle that I thought was the light bar didn't go away after I took it off, may play with some tape to try and find what spot is making that noise.
actual economy on that tank was 17.3, I think computer was about 1mpg optimistic.
Fuel gauge is acting up again. Getting more frequent with age. Does affect the overhead computer's range, but not economy estimate. so not a big deal to figure rough miles per tank if it craps out completely with as much history as I've got on this thing.
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Tires off, wheels painted, front shocks changed. They were definitely whooped. Tire wear says alignment is a sneeze off and pressure was too low. Plus a broken belt and bad shocks. I went for steer tires this time, it sees minimal snow duty now days.
What a rusty mess those wheels are. I need bigger wire wheels and cups. Or a sand blast rig. Might have to at least do the outside face of the rears now but then the bed will look even worse.
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Reminds me of back when it was pretty.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220409/047df21e3c1af8d45fab1c692b855fc8.jpg)
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intermittent no-start due to low voltage.
charging surge is getting much worse. bought a standalone voltage regulator but haven't installed it. tested batteries today and the pair tests to 300a, so they're shot. the cables and terminals all look like shit.
so ordered some cables and some terminals, expect to buy some batteries too. TBD if the ECU charge regulation bypass is needed, or if it's due to some high resistance. Bad batteries could be cause or could be symptom.
Hopefully my splurge of supplies here results in some productivity too. being sick for 2 weeks has me feeling WAY behind on everything.
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New batteries procured this morning. I'll be annoyed if I have to install them to leave work.
I haven't decided if I'll change batteries or cables first to see if the charge surging stops. I really don't know what the cause is and whether bad batteries could be causing it or if it killed the batteries. It's not 100% reliable but close.
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New batteries and most battery wiring replaced. Thought I had lugs for 2 & 4 awg but nah, so I had to reuse a couple things. Will replace grid heater wire for sure, it’s downright ragged.
Start was a much faster crank.
No voltage surging in 15-20 min idling.
It was intolerable the last few times I drove it.
Old batteries both sitting at 12.3-12.4v and tested to 275 & 325 amps. Weak but still serviceable. Wiring probably the majority of the issue.
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Was charging at 14.8-14.9 when I left home. Down to 14.7 after a couple hours. May still put that stand-alone regulator in. Easy spot on the passenger fender to mount and wire.
At least it’s under 15 and not flickering.
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It did a little bit of voltage surging while I was fueling this morning. Then didn’t see it again.
I wonder what I’d learn if I were to monitor the heater grid
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Completed the remaining battery cable replacements Friday, and swapped on some lead terminals that didn’t snap as soon as I tightened them.
Also noted that there’s no cable from the heater grid to the grid solenoid. So I haven’t had a heater grid in play for the last 100,000 miles. Unless I consciously didn’t reinstall that wire when I redid the head gasket right after I moved? Don’t remember that. Also surprised I didn’t really notice that being missing when I did that job.
Heater grid trigger wires looked ok but the solenoid is crusty as hell.
I threw the voltage controller under the hood but didn’t wire it. If I see surge again, should be a quick job to migrate charge control from ECU to stand-alone. Just need to look up the resistance I need to put across the factory harness to keep the idiot light off.
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Have not seen any charge surging.
Right rear brake went metal to metal. Got that caliper and rotor changed just now in about 3 hours. Nothing fought at all.
Another case of always just do brakes in pairs… hasn’t been long since I did the other.
Ebrake hardware all looked great. Wheel bearing looked great.
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just did oil change and fuel filters and swapped that LR caliper.
Yup, a year ago. I think that was maybe 5,000 miles. Neither side needed pads at that time, I had them in stock and shelved them.
Spent a pair from stock just now and the left side pads still look new.
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Charge pipe popped off the intake horn bringing Sarah’s Jetta back from inspection
Under boost accelerating in 4th appreciating the power of a _modern_ dumpbus I thought I grenaded a driveline lol
Took me a second to evaluate road speed and R’s were still correlated, I just lost 80% power.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230808/a7ed0a4cc5f5dedd8ff91952da4c9af3.jpg)
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RF brake caliper dragging. New to have a front doing something stupid, it’s always a rear. Not enough to pull, but enough to be warm after noticing a brake pedal difference.
Always something
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The always-perfect oil pressure on this 462,000 mile animal dropped to the bottom of the gauge as I arrived home just now. Over the course of the last 2 miles of the drive, noticed around 20, then 10, then less as I parked.
No funny noises.
Gauge slightly reactive to RPM, so not a -dead- sender or gauge
Typical is 45 hot idle and higher at cruise
Oil consumption has always been negligible. Maybe a quart low at a 7500-10000 mile, 3 gallon change.
I see I’m at 7750mi, will check and probably change.
Very concerning.
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Restarted after writing that, showing 40psi hot idle
Maybe it’s another cluster fuck up like the fuel gauge a couple weeks ago
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fingers crossed for ya!
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did a little reading this morning - found that the pressure gauge is a complete lie run by the ECM based off of a 6psi pressure switch.
there's a pressure port on top of the oil filter housing, I'll shop for a pressure transducer to add there to the CTS gauges to get a real number since concerns were brought up....
I drove the XJ today.
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they salted this week! put the xj away till spring!
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called it fine due to rain. everything else down and broken
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68psi cold idle
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that sounds better than looking for a new 6.7
maybe weird electrical thing?
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15-18 hot idle. 50-60 hot cruise at 2,000 rmp
I think it was a dash snafu. Will be interesting to see how much difference fresh oil and filter makes. Clean fuel filters is the difference between 7-10 and 2-3 psi…
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hmm 15-18 hot idle sounds kinda low but not sure what it normally had been running
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thats crazy its a fake number though lol
i feel lied to!
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Yeah ZERO clue what it was 100.000 miles ago and if that’s same or worse.
Factory low pressure warning is 6psi so I figure over 10-12 is hopefully non fatal.
Gauge is just showing 40-60 at all times no matter what. So dumb. But I should have expected it.
I really thought it was a real number since it DOES move with rpm. That’s just… tricky. deceitful. rude.
If you have that other wiring left over let me know. It’s cheap to get just a pressure sensor but the extra interface for sensors is $177 itself. Silly. Too bad I can’t just make the dash gauge tell truth - but the dash is definitely failing intermittently so maybe better to bypass it anyway.
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i have everything that was on my truck that i took off (broken CTS display?)
and an extra one of these kits i believe.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Edge-Products/367/98611/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710673933&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=44693592161&CATCI=aud-454389669042%3Apla-213811363271&CATARGETID=230006180039218810&cadevice=c&jegspromo=&gclid=Cj0KCQiA14TjBRD_ARIsAOCmO9bwFeiNfhB3_Rt7092zdsAY7KCbDwwAzf1PFMueflUJVmKZkXUiWi0aAh4CEALw_wcB&fbclid=IwAR3TAbYyBMQhCXjWQxShYad6mZNpWAenHQksSqfCX5wcAWqaUKEH7nz2bqE
i can check tomorrow
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What I bought to get me the sensors will leave me with that same EGT kit as spare/resell. hoped to recoup a couple bucks for a kit that costs the same total as just a pressure sensor and sensor interface.
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Have seen this on the overhead twice in the past month.
Codes for fuel level sensor both high and low and CCV . I have a ccv filter on the shelf,
See it that fixes or if it’s the purge valve.
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Changed the pcv filter before a trip last week and got the same service message once since.
Fuel gauge will read at full only, still. Guess fifteen year old half million mile trucks need som attention here and there.