M4wd&Fabrications
Projects place => Projects Section => Topic started by: mr.mindless on May 21, 2012, 06:00:15 PM
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Battery is near surely fried. Id charged it for a day after it came off the wedge, and I was reading 9v on the gauge when installed. Jumped it off the Deere and it went right to 14v. Let it idle while I mowed the whole lawn, checked steering functionality in the driveway back and forth a Hal dozen times, and it was at 9v/super slow crank immediately after I shut it off. 4 year old yellow top.
Keep power steering topped off and it might be fine.
Needs the poopy exhaust flex tube replaced too - more leak than muffle. Anyone betting that will be looked at before 101 may be a fool.
In cab winch switch might be a good idea.
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im playing catch up here.which one of your 10 piles is this one
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Dakota. Used up!
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swap you a new exide orbital for a head...
not some head.. big difference.
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Haha. Hahahaaa. Ha. Ha.
Sounds like a deal.
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Trickle charging this battery now. Had juice but needed a jump. Let it idle for an hour and it cranked slow as shit and barely restarted itself.
Probably still needs an IAC. Unless its power related. Poor connections or low voltage do make it run like shit at low RPM.
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This thread sucks!!!
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stip this pile of scrap and build a line mt car
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You keep saying that. 571 or 572 are better line mt cars than most line mt cars.
I guess I could screw some plywood together and put 47 shocks on something with leaf springs and zoomies pretty quick though.
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I hear there is a Profender buggy for sale ;D
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You keep saying that. 571 or 572 are better line mt cars than most line mt cars.
My cars dont help your problem
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You miss my point. I'm saying building a "line mountain car" is silly, there are better overall tools for that job.
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All this needs is tires ;D
http://rochester.craigslist.org/bar/3170764212.html
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All this needs is tires ;D
http://rochester.craigslist.org/bar/3170764212.html
Flinstones do Line Mountain?
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Needs tires and 12 more shocks
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tires hardly matter when they're not what's puttin the power to the ground.
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Craziest dudes there are the 2wd rear engine buggies. Went to the coal bucket and had a blast just spectating. You can race in pretty much anything even dakotas.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Stock dak would be better there than mine. Eagle probably would too.
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This pile trail ran like a boss Friday and Sunday. Only time I was denied was the black/red climb off O trail where Shane rolled and finished off the Jizz (his white s10/ blazer truggy). Couldn't find enough traction for the last truck length up and out, had to pull cable.
Frame is reportedly flexing like a mofo, no re-cracks I can see though.
Electrical weirdness. Wires look good but need to be checked. Reads 9-10v at the dash on initial key-on and cranks like it (clicks, then slow) before speeding up and starting. Idles like it has a dead battery. Couldn't jump the Ram off of it even after sitting for a while hooked up at 2100rpm. I bet winching at idle would kill the truck engine, it needed throttle.
Wondering if I have an invisible cabling issue, or if the battery has a dead cell.
Steering still leaks like a sieve. Hiems in front links are all loosey goosey. Ba rear shaft hasn't broken yet. Still need to adjust things in the rear end before I put in the new one so I don't over angle it and bend its cv pin too.
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Eagle probably would too.
Now your talking!
Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
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Battery's got a dead cell. 10.5v 24 hours after trickle charging for 24 hours. I'm kind of amazed it starts.
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that was some loooooong cranks. i was waiting for it to give up.
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Stop dumping money in this thing.
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Yup, should let it sit and rot after a trouble free weekend bc of a bad battery. Good call :-/
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I say you put an inzo, seats, and hydro in this thing and continue to wheel the piss out of it!
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I say you bring it to the scrap yard and scrap it!!!!!! They wont even need to crush it so I bet they will give you better $/lb
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Thinking about Smike's/Pete's air shocks...
should get full hydro steering too.
if it sprouted some tube, lost the fenders & bed, grew a cage, got linked in the back, it might give me another few years of service. It's been mine for 13 years now, wheeled for 10, and SAS for 8 next month. Crazy.
tcase mounting needs attention too - there are cracks in the frame at the edges of where the mounts are welded.
Suddenly seeming like lots of work again :? Which is why it really hasn't been touched in 3 years.
Yup sounds just like replacing a battery to me. :(
Sounds more like $2500-$3000 and a lot of time.
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if it sprouted some tube, lost the fenders & bed, grew a cage, got linked in the back
yeah this sentence is crazy talk! :P
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:des-tongue:
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Sounds more like $2500-$3000 and a lot of time.
sounds like what this last race cost me
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Smike is a baller shot caller!!
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i call it as i see.
Dakota is a well used tool, its amazing what its been though, and what its capable of.
That being said, it has been long neglected for serous change or replacement if i owned it haha
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That being said, it has been long neglected for serous change or replacement if i owned it haha
are you making mike an offer,pretty sure he'll take 571 as a trade
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i see no offers made in those statements
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long neglected because it needs 2 grand in shit to still not be raceable.
air shocks on it would fix most comfort issues but cause lots of changes at the same time. the only small bite needed is hydro steering and that's pretty much my lowest priority complaint.
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Who cares it still runs and is free I would just keep running that puppy
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i still remember the day the tail gate slammed into the hitch when mike was pissed about hitting a tree a little on the one bed side. it was awesome.
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I'm amused that 14 months ago I boogered this thing back together from 2 pieces.
(http://tapatalk.com/mu/a68988fb-116f-8a43.jpg)
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Need to change all fluids, pull codes, new battery and I bet a new front O2 sensor.
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Used up. Things are falling apart under there!
Code is TPS related, that makes sense for poor running at low throttle and idle stalling.
Trans is draining. No chunks in the pan, but more than nothing. Magnet was not installed.
Short shopping list. Haven't decided if I'll spend the money to fill, run & drain the trans once. I probably Gould since it still seems serviceable.
Temp sender and magnet will be reinstalled.
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bunch of frame cracks on both sides should get some attention also
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there are a couple of those.
I took some pics of the underside yesterday and logged the damage :)
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.820911354938.2178851.3703946&type=1&l=57c77e986b
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Is it time for a moment of silence?
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it deserves what josh did to my poor scrambler
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Josh was intending to take some good, salable parts off that Scrambler. I don't have that option.
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Current plan: keep limping.
New trans fluid and filter, O2 sensor Saturday morning before Erik's. (anyone need a ride?)
Next week: engine oil, trans again, diffs, tcase. Weld frame cracks. Put seal kit in steering box. Pretend it's fine! It probably will be again for a little while.
After that it's debatable. maybe new front springs, remove add-a-leaf, bushings in spring shackles with fresh bolts & new front spring hangers? Redo front links with big joints? hydro steering and knuckles? (and a cage and seats and a chassis and coilovers...) That's when it runs away.
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Couldn't get the o2 senior out to save myself. May need to pull the y pipe and/or get a real heat source on what's left of it.
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Ran GREAT with a good battery, and it hour a bad O2 sensor.
Front locker is giving up the ghost though. Left front skips under throttle.
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plasma and weld in a new bung is how i roll with those SOB's
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When all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail :)
If I had acetylene it would be out and done just as fast (I think)
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Got the door to latch. Can't get it open again though :)
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Dual tranny machine here
http://www.nc4x4.com/forum/index.php?threads/1979-toyota-truggie-for-sale-or-trade-for-mazda-miata.127424/
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Door and tailgate are good. Rearend's days are numbered. Had to drill 2 bolts to get the cover off. Tackling front cover before calling it quits for dinner.
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Front has broken teeth too. Locker looks good though; I'll take a closer look after it drains and drools off and I don't need to waste 14 cans of brake cleaner. The gear oil that came out was like custard. 200w I'd bet. Probably the issue.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/24/a8a7u4a2.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/24/uzyhuna9.jpg)
I had issues uploading pics to the forum. Anyone else?
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Looks awesome
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I know, right?
Wonder if I have any gear marking compound left. Curious to run a pattern. I think I was happy with em when I set em up, but I'm not sure where those pics are.
So Alex didn't warrant those CJ gears, huh smike?
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he will bitch if the teeth are not completely broke out. if its broke on the outer edge, or inner edge the pattern and teeth loading was not correct.
it should break the whole tooth out, and go below the core of the teeth if it really failed.
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Current plan: keep limping.
And now? Haha
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Current plan: keep limping.
And now? Haha
And now: the only reusable parts on the rig need serious repair too!
If I was interested in doing something right, the front axle should be pulled and the bottom of the housing built up too. Bottom bolt hole is almost gone and there wasn't enough of a head left to unthread it.
Not sure if "it'll be fine" applies when 3 teeth are partial in both diffs. I'm leaning towards "barely fine." thoughts?
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time to upgrade.....
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Run it.
Worse case, you break more gears and get towed back to the trailer. :-\
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or throw 500$ at it and regear it again? maintence item. im amazed the buggy doesnt have missing teeth.
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Musta done a better job setting up 571's than mine. I'm really curious what my patterns look like.
Decision is essentially regear now when it's PM, or wait till I strip out both R&Ps in the middle of Pensyltukian and then light it on fire...
broke the windshield the second time up Dragon's Back (that's it's name, right?).
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This poor truck has just gone to shit in the last 3 years.
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hmmm, that would have nothing to do with ridding in 571 for the last 3 years.....
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I think it might have more to do with zero PM since it started getting trailered aside from hammering on things to make body panels fit again
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What the hell is PM?
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preventative maintenance duh!
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What the hell is PM?
that works on sooooo many levels from you
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This article is for you Mike.
http://www.newsbiscuit.com/2012/09/19/rally-driver-admits-he-has-no-idea-what-co-driver-is-talking-about/
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ROFL
Is that legit or is that place The Onion of racing news?
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Its, "The news before it happens"
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A pic for you
(http://www.newsbiscuit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/354-cyclists.jpg)
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packages 1-5 of 5, special bicycle courier delivery.
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Bottom of the front diff is ~0.150" thick. Thats a hundred thou away from "fine"
I got depressed looking at it so I came inside.
I can probably do a halfway OK plating job with the housing installed. Grinding the face flush with the guts installed might be another matter though.
Jeff I make fun of your diff skids but maybe you've got the right idea. Replacing that steel is way easier the replacing what's behind them.
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Oh, I can see the wear pattern from my photos. Front is shallow rear is deep IIRC. Left that on my work computer.
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Gears alone about $405+ship from Randy's for the cheap US Gear stuff. Same price 5.13 or 5.38.
Plenty of effort but that's pretty cheap to ignore. Fuck I wish I had a shop on site. Would be so much more productive. (read: have so much more shit and still get nothing done because I'm a lazy puke)
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that sounds spendy for gears
spenser found a pirate guy that was better that PORC with install kits. you probably dont need install kits, and i still have a ton of 60 shims and shat
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yeah, I should just need the gears. I saved all the shims from the old kits. As long as the bearings are OK with going on and off without grenading it should be okay. Would be nice if I could find the shims for the 10.25 solid spacer that I missed last time too.
I figured Randy's list prices would be on the high side of available options; if I can do it for even less than that it's even dumber not to do it.
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baseline 4x4 tonyfeichter@baseline4x4.com
USA Standard Ring & Pinion gear set for Dana 60 Reverse rotation in a 5.38 ratio (thin cut) $186.33
USA Standard Master Overhaul kit Dana 60 front, non-disconnect $114.05
USA Standard Ring & Pinion gear set for 10.5" GM 14 bolt truck in a 5.38 ratio $172.80
USA Standard Master Overhaul kit for the GM 10.5" 14T differential, '89-'98 $140.16
wayne hartwig
$150 - ZG D60R-513R-T USA Standard (HP60 5.13 thick cut gears)
$175 - YK D60-F (Dana 60 Master Install)
$140 - ZG GM14T-513T USA Standard (14b 5.13 gears)
$170 - YK GM14T-A (14b Master Install)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles-tires-wheels/1042150-ring-pinion-sets-sale-now.html
525 shipped for USA Standard gears and install kits. 5.38s for HP60 and 14B
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sell the wedge for 2000$, scrap 2 cars for 500$
$1500 in full hydro / knuckles / arms
$600 gears
$400 tube
Leave or swap to used softer coils, buggy leaf whats in the rear.
No change from use now other than it will need a bigger tarp when it rains.
disregard women, acquire currency, add coilovers, and build to pass tech.
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you got it. now do it....
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Throw gear oil back in things, wheel mostly local for a bit and not waste a Rausch trip on stripped gears. Reseal steering box and weld frame cracks.
Finish Nissan and Jetta. Sell 2 of Nissan/ Eagle/ Jetta. Get garage back.
Then work on wheeler, or white eagle.
Probably gears and plate front diff first. Then tube or something?
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i could use a tdi for my new commute..
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Well fill us in on the commute part
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1500 it's yours as is delivered. Have signed title and *maybe* a good battery too.
Offer expires when I finish the Nissan and start on it.
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i hope you didnt pay 1500$ for that thing haaha
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Whats the deal with that car? Forgot you had it hahaha.
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No, I didn't. That's what he was asking.
Needs a wheel straightened, power steering line replaced, intake cleaned, charge piping and some other frontend body parts reassembled, outside mirrors and radio antenna broken. due for a timing belt.
Could be a rusty driver.
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I wonder if I should drop the cases & winch out of this, and have a claw grab it off the axles along with dumpbus...
it runs and drives, but I really question the true status of engine and trans right now. didn't notice the chipped gears whatsoever yesterday.
structural issues could be patched together again; steering leak has never been identified. things are VERY crowded up there, but maybe a good brake clean washdown and fluid fill could confirm the source.
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time for a 1 ton eagle
you know you want to.
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budget buggy parts plus a 2x4 box frame build to bolt an Eagle chassis to could be amusing. Sight lines would SUCK with such a short-in-height greenhouse though.
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Could probably mount up existing drivetrain to that box frame for beater status. lift car off for service needs with not much needing disconnection, and easy swaps. hmm.
maybe I'll keep the full drivetrain after all. That at least means it'll stay whole through DumpBus scrap-out. Too much work, need smaller bites.
I'm not M4 after all
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Scrap the sheet metal and take the whole drivetrain home. Use the engine and trans in one of the Eagles along with the running gear. Then cut up the frame and scrap that.
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more work that way than dropping the running gear out of the frame and leaving the body on it.
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are eagles frame? or unimess?
I think the dakota motor has life, the trans i bet not so much. dont you have extras of those? haha
get an smacked up express van with a good motor and trans, and put your divorced doubler behind it, in the dakota frame and suspention with the AMC shell over it.
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dak frame is a cracked mess, everywhere. too much abuse and too little cage.
I think I do have a spare trans and a core trans plus what's in it. don't remember 4x4 or 4x2 for the good stuff, tail housings got swapped around lots.
eagle is unimess. doubt the body could drop onto any non-custom frame without a 8" body lift equiv. and just "NO." to that.
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I saw a red Dakota on 35s the other day and thought of this hog.
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Seems like MikeMike has other things on his mind... ;)
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eagle did work at pines!
needs coilovers and 35's
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31s/33s and a shorter wheel base would be where it's at. I can has breakover issues even more often than center clearance/rut issues.. I'd still love an SX4 to wheel.
sight lines aren't great though. It's a compact car but the hood is pretty long and high.
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If I read correctly, your Dakota needs trans attention, I can help with that. I rebuilt two of them, 46RE and a 47RE.
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It probably does. It had some water intake and actually boiled itself dry, but seems okay since - I may have good spares around, can't remember what all I have stashed as far as good vs core trans pieces.
the PS leak issue is the big thing. I should try and track that down. too many projects!
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Put some hydro on the beast and wheel it!
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Psuedo plan is replace the PS pump. If the leak is fixed: run it. If not, PSC sooner than later.
swap gears once it makes some noise. Probably weld the front and loose the Lockright when gears get swapped. Need to consider most likely future use before deciding on ratio with the current platform being on its last leg
Tapatalking in traffic
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I thought she was only 3 wheel after eriks?
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locker issues. probably fluid related, has fresh oil in it now.
Front [...] Locker looks good though; I'll take a closer look after it drains and drools off and I don't need to waste 14 cans of brake cleaner. The gear oil that came out was like custard. 200w I'd bet. Probably the issue.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/24/uzyhuna9.jpg)
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900$ shipped for 2psc rams, clevis kits, extra clamps and matts column
we have the technology at M4
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I could write a list of what it needs but it's long. hence the thread title :)
the diffs need plating ,the frame needs welding, the cases need seals, it needs coilovers and links and heims and fresh gearsets and things I'm not thinking of and it's still not caged, has no seats and no harnesses.
....and the Eagle rides 43x as nice. at street pressure. with bad shocks. that's saying something
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i am ording multiple gear sets, you want some?
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eh, i guess my chosen vender only has 4.56 listed for your axles, 170$ for the standard low 10.25, 155$ for the reverse thick 60
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I'll pass on 4.56. 5.13 would probably be close enough, but 4.56 is just too shallow. Thx
Tapatalking in traffic
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seems a thick standard rotation 5.38 is not easy to find
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seems a thick standard rotation 5.38 is not easy to find
reverse?
they are out there.
try wayne hartwig.
or the pirate vender i linked in the chromo shafts thread in the for sale section
also ccor (or whatever that company is)
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Battery is 0% alive. Again.
Even when mostly dry, the power steering leak source is indefinite. Fluid just appears. Either shaft seal on the pump, can-to-pump gasket, or front cap seal on the box. I should probably pull the pump; I don't think the box actually saw any pressure so I see that as least likely. System leaked with engine running and maybe a pint added.
Found how the outer frame welds crack so fast at the box mount sleeves: the inner half of the boxed rail is separated from the frame at the bottom. Well-hidden behind old stock front crossmember pieces.
Not an encouraging first look.
Tapatalking in traffic
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New battery + full hydro?
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the bandaid list is long and involved. I wanna wheel, buuuuut... you know?
I suppose pulling the front axle and redoing the front links/ link mounts, doing full hydro, plating the bottom of the housing, getting a battery and steering orbital, etc isn't wasted money - but then I put it back in a truck that still rides like shit (front coil springs ~$200 wasted money), needs motor mount and tcase mount work (time, though, dirt, welding), has no exhaust left ($40 wasted on another flex pipe & clamps to do it easy & wrong), and will eat rear driveshafts without yet a lil more work (pull leaves, add shims, rebuild shackles with bushings).
So, a grand and change plus gear sets.
fuckit, if I had a place to work that'd already be done. I need to finish that TDI and get Dump Bus parts out of the garage so I can curse how much too small it is all over again.
Longer term I'm thinking of tube based off the dakota grille & hood. truck style lines with a short cab. probably back to a married case aiming for a 110" wb and keep the 42s for now. carry it on the back of High Miler for local trips with the rear tires on a platform behind/below the bed.
motor sounds GREAT when it has full voltage to it. no stumbling, no tripping over itself returning to idle. I have at least one spare trans. 727 or 46/47/48RE will all mate if the 44REs don't live and I have a manual trans 360 PCM already sitting to do a 727 setup. 318/360 are dime a dozen in stock form even if not as cheap to mod as LS. that's a couple grand saved in using what I've got (ignoring $800 van options). leave a few inches all around and if the chassis is good enough to deserve it, a HEMI or LS could go in its place later.
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i think you need a little less race prep mind set and a little more bushmechicry to get this hawg rolling for another season as is.
i see battery and steering pump, and some 1/4" plate welded on, air up the tires and go wheeling with a big cooler strapped in the back.
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Gonna try and put a pump on this and one of the hopefully good batteries from my bench. Maybe make Rausch with it this weekend?
Tapatalking in traffic
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i have 3 good batteries on the shop floor, a hydro ram and 2 tie rods you are welcome too. probably on your own for hoses as my spares fit both cars.
can the box be tapped?
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All Saginaw style can be tapped - so, yes.
Might be worthwhile.
I have two two batteries on my bench, I think they're both good. I thought the one in the Dakota was good too though so who knows. Probably will need to do some battery cable/terminal magic. Hopefully I'll get my fourth "lifetime" pump tomorrow.
Tapatalking in traffic
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needs more tube and less mopar this winter
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needs to be crushed this winter is what that boils to
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pull the cab off and crush that. cut the frame where its cracked, half back it out with tube. Mount seats and hydro, and find 3 wires to run motor. Fuel cell it, air shock the front, buggy leave the rear for now.
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cut the frame where its cracked
(http://www.alyscrapmetal.com/images/1HMS1&2.JPG)
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You coming to Rausch this weekend?!
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Yes he is, with the Dakota and my cj in tow :)
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I said weeks ago I was in. We'll see if the Dakota makes it. No progress attempted tonight.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Fresh ps pump installed. Fresh battery and some frame welding tmw. Then see how she drives...
The bench batteries should be good - they came from the Dumpbus.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Awesome!
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Holy crap...
I wanna go just to see the Dakota again.
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Still leaks from the box. Doesn't pour though - just leaks.
Would need an O2 sensor to get a sticker. P0132s don't really go away without one of those. Old one is snapped off, as I recall I killed it in the drowning and couldn't get it out.
Tapatalking in traffic
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I dunno. That's a pretty bad leak still. At least it holds fluid when shut off now, and will keep the system full for a half mile run down the street and back.
Everything else seems good enough. I should have checked stock at AZ again on that "lifetime" box and tried again to get another on the way, but I doubt an NLA part is gonna show up.
Could pull the box and try changing the cap seal? Rebuild lots had been in stock last year.
Other than that, as far as Smike's big ugly cooler hauler plan - it deserves an oil change, probably another trans fluid and filter along w a deep pan (lets see if it lasts a weekend first) and needs a tank of gas. I severed an OBA line in two places welding frame cracks and have that repaired.
Clicky rear driveshaft is not swapped out.
what should the last night's todo list be?
Tapatalking in traffic
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i read, spare fluids rack and air up the tires 8)
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^^ agreed!
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http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/usa-northern-california/1091537-full-size-dodge-dusy-2.html
Don't ask me why I clicked on this thread, but just read the 2nd paragraph in post 45.
Your PBB famous, even in CA!
Edit: maybe not you, but I guess I assumed since body damage and Dakotas were the topic of discussion haha
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so mean!
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Gentlemen, be assured your trail is safe with me. I promise to pick up more trash than I left and all tree rash will be avoided at all costs! This truck is my DD and I don't like feeling like I'm driving around in some P.O.S. like that Dakota guy on the Dodge forum.
hahahahhaha
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wh wha
7 page thread on weather a truck will fit on a trail?
:facepalm web wheeling:
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used up and POS are two clearly distinctive terms that shouldn't be confused!
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anybody who wheels a fullsize in the north east knows all to well
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It would be fun to see the look on their faces when Mike made the Dakota fit through there!
I once read a post by someone in UT who said "I don't want to wheel with anyone who can't keep a D30 together with 35s"
They clearly have never wheeled on anything but sandpaper!!
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"I don't want to wheel with anyone who can't keep a D30 together with 35s"
not to digress...
but he has a point.. not everybody needs tons
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"I don't want to wheel with anyone who can't keep a D30 together with 35s"
not to digress...
but he has a point.. not everybody needs tons
Completely agreed! But to think anyone who can't keep shafts in their D30 is wreckless...
Well yeah, ok, maybe a little wreckless hahahaha
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The D30 shafts can break on the street. I had a Suburban with a broken 14b carrier, only street driven.
So a blanket statement like that is useless. Things break, 1-tons or D30, dosent matter.
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wheeling a dedicated offroad park versus public access trails is very different too - I wouldn't want to wheel a trail like that if the trees are in good shape: if I do touch I'm not going to slide nicely along. I'm going to rip the shit out of it.
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My d30 has served me well!!
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(http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/images/smilies/b2.gif) FTW!
EDIT: I should have quoted you
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D30 FTW!
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/12-4-31%20Big%20Dogs%20Ice/icebreaker7.jpg) (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/etk300ex/media/12-4-31%20Big%20Dogs%20Ice/icebreaker7.jpg.html)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q169/etk300ex/12-4-31%20Big%20Dogs%20Ice/547979_598503442639_49802567_31930897_536784423_n.jpg) (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/etk300ex/media/12-4-31%20Big%20Dogs%20Ice/547979_598503442639_49802567_31930897_536784423_n.jpg.html)
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fixored it :D
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haha
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drunk guys and hammers! win!
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Mine was a pinion bearing just normal wear and tear :)
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Only 1 u-joint in two yrs ;D ;D ;D
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Check this out! No wrinkles!
(http://www.fingerlakes4x4.org/twg189/cache/2005_March+25th+-+Copper+Ridge_100_1419.JPG.small.jpg)
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So pretty... :(
I don't remember that bad of a speedboat stance
Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)ing in traffic
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look at the sun gleaming of the fender!
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Loaded up the bed with scrap. Trans quit halfway back to its parking spot. Full of fluid that looks good but there was a lil piece of schmutz on the dipstick. Almost like a rust flake. I wonder if the filter is plugged
Tapatalking in traffic
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I'm not pushing it again!
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Me neither. Parked it after it sat an hour.
Tapatalking in traffic
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Saw a Dakota in worse shape than mine!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/18/aby9y2u4.jpg)
Tapatalking in traffic
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Not really.. at least he was driving his